100% spot on advice. Covered all major aspects for 99 % shooting. Maybe i missed it but would add using a tripod, turn off image stabilizer, use manual focus or set focus not on shutter button, use timer. Even when I did all of that using long focal length lenses any camera movement is multiplied. Doxmark will give you test results for body and lens - good to know but stick to this presentation. An alternative is focused to infinity - give it a try.
Thanks for the comment Bill! Back button focus, tripod, remote shutter release are all good practices to help ensure a sharp image. I did a video on Image Stabilization - check it out here: ruclips.net/video/PK1JUcSgxt0/видео.htmlsi=_BpA4aqMGp68aeFH And then I followed it up with an even more controlled test here: ruclips.net/video/Jn2mDH8oycQ/видео.htmlsi=k3vaofNQWjMkajsC Results will undoubtedly vary from camera to camera but my tests showed no difference between having IS on or off.
@@JamesParkerPhotography thanks, I'll give your IS videos a look. I never did a comparison so it should be interesting. I was only going by "other" advice.
It has been a very long time since my photography classes but from what I can recall from this 77 year old brain is that there is a difference on how much is in focus in front and in back and it is different for every focal length so I believe that it is a bit misleading to compare using the exact focus spot. I also understand that every lens has its own sweet spot.
Greg - I talk about where you should focus for the most depth of field starting here: ruclips.net/video/a9_plwuwPSU/видео.htmlsi=D806tMk96QlQKLD-&t=840
In the 1980´s the rule of thumb was that the "sweat spot" of a prime Lens was about 2 to 3 stops from the maximum aperture, but many new Lenses can perform the best sharpness (depending on the Lens design) from nearly full opening, I have a Voigtländer Macro APO-Lanthar 110mm 2.5, it is sharpest at aperture 2.8 ! Most (full frame) Lenses get less and less sharp with apertures smaller than 5.6. I would not use either a zoom, nor autofocus for Landscape Photography ! I have done Landscape Photography since 1979 and I think that getting everything in focus is very "old school", get the focus very the image interest are at the most important and do not think too much about the depth of field, unless it is very disturbing.
These are Promaster photography gloves - I bought mine from my local camera store. I'm sure you can find them on Amazon as well. They work well as long as it is not too cold out. For extreme cold you'll probably want something better.
I think that your 'sweet spot' (f/5.6 - f/11) is a bit out of date - nowadays many, if not most, lenses peak in sharpness stopped down just 1 or 2 stops.
With the way technology is changing and the quality constantly improving, you may be right. Which is why I said that 5/6 through f/11 was a broad brush. I would also add that the "sweet spot" depends on the max aperture of the lens. From there, about 2 stops down is going to be really sharp. That might be f/4 or it could be f/8. For me, I don't really care about pixel peeping or extreme tests of a lens in a laboratory. If I can't tell the difference at 100-150% in Lightroom, it's fine.
@@oliversissonphone6143 the lens will be at its sharpest set from 1 to two stops closed down from maximum aperture. So, if it's an f/1.4 lens, it will often be at its sharpest between f/2 (1 stop down) to f/2.8 (2 stops down). If it's an f/2.8. you might expect it to be sharpest between f/4 (1 stop down) and f/5.6 (2 stops down) - and so on. Good quality slower lenses might well be sharpest wide open. Of course, that assumes that you nail focus. If you miss focus, something will be sharp, but maybe not your intended subject.
@@daveycarmichael Of course - notice the water in my test shots. Things that are moving will not be sharp and become blurred. Things that don't move will not become more blurry with a long exposure as long as the camera does not move. The longer the exposure the more chance you have of a blurry image due to wind, shifting ground around the tripod, vibrations through the tripod, etc. My longest shutter speed was 1.6 seconds. The softness in the images was due to diffraction by shooting as such a small aperture.
100% spot on advice. Covered all major aspects for 99 % shooting.
Maybe i missed it but would add using a tripod, turn off image stabilizer, use manual focus or set focus not on shutter button, use timer.
Even when I did all of that using long focal length lenses any camera movement is multiplied.
Doxmark will give you test results for body and lens - good to know but stick to this presentation.
An alternative is focused to infinity - give it a try.
Thanks for the comment Bill! Back button focus, tripod, remote shutter release are all good practices to help ensure a sharp image. I did a video on Image Stabilization - check it out here: ruclips.net/video/PK1JUcSgxt0/видео.htmlsi=_BpA4aqMGp68aeFH And then I followed it up with an even more controlled test here: ruclips.net/video/Jn2mDH8oycQ/видео.htmlsi=k3vaofNQWjMkajsC
Results will undoubtedly vary from camera to camera but my tests showed no difference between having IS on or off.
@@JamesParkerPhotography thanks, I'll give your IS videos a look.
I never did a comparison so it should be interesting. I was only going by "other" advice.
Great video and advice. Cheers from Norway!
Nice video, Let us know when you're going to present a video on focus stacking.
Great Video james
Thank you, extremely helpful
It has been a very long time since my photography classes but from what I can recall from this 77 year old brain is that there is a difference on how much is in focus in front and in back and it is different for every focal length so I believe that it is a bit misleading to compare using the exact focus spot. I also understand that every lens has its own sweet spot.
Greg - I talk about where you should focus for the most depth of field starting here: ruclips.net/video/a9_plwuwPSU/видео.htmlsi=D806tMk96QlQKLD-&t=840
Great example that I could actually follow!
this is extremely helpful, thank you!
Very well done. Thank you!
Thanks,great 👍
In the 1980´s the rule of thumb was that the "sweat spot" of a prime Lens was about 2 to 3 stops from the maximum aperture, but many new Lenses can perform the best sharpness (depending on the Lens design) from nearly full opening, I have a Voigtländer Macro APO-Lanthar 110mm 2.5, it is sharpest at aperture 2.8 ! Most (full frame) Lenses get less and less sharp with apertures smaller than 5.6. I would not use either a zoom, nor autofocus for Landscape Photography ! I have done Landscape Photography since 1979 and I think that getting everything in focus is very "old school", get the focus very the image interest are at the most important and do not think too much about the depth of field, unless it is very disturbing.
New subscriber.
Where did you get those gloves?
These are Promaster photography gloves - I bought mine from my local camera store. I'm sure you can find them on Amazon as well. They work well as long as it is not too cold out. For extreme cold you'll probably want something better.
@@JamesParkerPhotography Thanks for the info.
Moose Peterson calls it Depth of Focus
I think that your 'sweet spot' (f/5.6 - f/11) is a bit out of date - nowadays many, if not most, lenses peak in sharpness stopped down just 1 or 2 stops.
With the way technology is changing and the quality constantly improving, you may be right. Which is why I said that 5/6 through f/11 was a broad brush. I would also add that the "sweet spot" depends on the max aperture of the lens. From there, about 2 stops down is going to be really sharp. That might be f/4 or it could be f/8. For me, I don't really care about pixel peeping or extreme tests of a lens in a laboratory. If I can't tell the difference at 100-150% in Lightroom, it's fine.
Can you clarify? What do you mean by just 1 or 2 stops? Beginner here.
@@oliversissonphone6143 the lens will be at its sharpest set from 1 to two stops closed down from maximum aperture. So, if it's an f/1.4 lens, it will often be at its sharpest between f/2 (1 stop down) to f/2.8 (2 stops down). If it's an f/2.8. you might expect it to be sharpest between f/4 (1 stop down) and f/5.6 (2 stops down) - and so on. Good quality slower lenses might well be sharpest wide open. Of course, that assumes that you nail focus. If you miss focus, something will be sharp, but maybe not your intended subject.
I don't know - seems like you're showing examples of shutter speed variance as much as aperture.
poorly done
How do you figure when I'm on a tripod and using a timer?
would you agree shutter speed can affect sharpness?
@@daveycarmichael Of course - notice the water in my test shots. Things that are moving will not be sharp and become blurred. Things that don't move will not become more blurry with a long exposure as long as the camera does not move. The longer the exposure the more chance you have of a blurry image due to wind, shifting ground around the tripod, vibrations through the tripod, etc. My longest shutter speed was 1.6 seconds. The softness in the images was due to diffraction by shooting as such a small aperture.