I bought the damper kit..it is nice set up..but you can take those allen head screws and put them where they belong..in the TRASH.. they suck and strip very easily.. bought a new allen wrench to set them.. crap screws.. I took the factory bolts.. belt sander half the head off.. went right in.. good spacing and torque up easy and quick
Just a heads up on that product, you MUST enlarge the holes in the plastic guide ever so slightly to allow it to slide effortlessly on/off that metal bracket without enlarging them so much creating sloppy fitment. If you do not do this before installing it on the engine, you will not be able to get it off for servicing the timing set or camshaft and you will likely break the plastic guide or bend the metal bracket during your attempt to remove it. You cannot remove the timing chain/gears without removing that plastic guide first. First hand experience talking here. That plastic guide is a really really snug fit on the metal bracket
@@danmarley2926 i just used a rolled up piece of sandpaper in the holes and spun it by hand backwards making the paper want to unroll itself, which conformed itself to the size of the hole and apply enough pressure to remove material. Only a small amount was needed to be removed on my part
Nice video! Couple of questions: I’m also curious installing a new crank sprocket, how do I determine how close to the block I press it in? Does the key sit flush with the outer edge of the sprocket? BTW, I had a BTR damper, when I tried to press out the bushings, it broke the plastic damper into several pieces. The bushings are not smooth. They have an indented ring where the damper plastic holds it secure. I ordered a GM damper and will try again
My dampener has a “slide on”fit over a “press fit”. Not loose just slides on and off easy. Think it’s okay, or should I pick up a different dampener? Thanks
Hey Scruf, helpful videos. I have an LS1 (99 C5) that I’m installing BTR stage 1 cam, new oil pump and want to upgrade timing chain to LS2 with damper. The block has no damper holes for bolts so I need the Trick Flow adapter. It’s hard to see from your video but are you using a new cam retainer plate? Or is it all one piece from Trick Flow? Will this setup work with a double chain timing kit?
Yes, I used a new cam retainer plate. The TF adapter is a separate piece. I'm not sure if it would work with a double roller timing chain. The width of the chain would be thicker, though that might not really matter. Probably best to call Trick Flow to confirm. FWIW, I used an LS2 chain and was happy with it.
Good question. There will always be some amount of slack in the timing chain. The rotation of the timing chain around the timing gears can create a whipping action that produces a harmonic oscillation in the timing chain that can lead to premature failure. This typically more pronounced in road race applications that have sustained high rpm usage. But even for a street car, it's cheap insurance.
Scruf's Garage thank you very much! Very good info! My 04 GTO ls1 block has the pre-drilled and tapped holes from factory, so I won’t need that bigger bracket right?
Yes I think the oil pump is in the way. Take a look at the oil pump installation video I did. ( ruclips.net/video/xjuwwlALVzM/видео.html ) It looks like the oil pump would block the two bolts that hold the damper.
@@ScrufsGarage thanks. I'm going to attempt it by mounting the damper on the bracket first, then mounting to the cam retainer bolts. Removing oil pump is not an option for me, my pan will not drop low enough without pulling the motor.
@@ScrufsGarage I have an 03 remanned lq4 in my 05 cts-v, im installing this damper (if I can pull it off) pac beehives, Ti retainers, and a 114 lsa cam, little hotter than an ls6 grind, going in. I'll definitely post up how that damper works out in a couple weeks, I don't see why I couldn't "hang it" behind the pump and, fish it by the chain.
Not required. The damper is optional. And this particular kit is for blocks that don't have the pre-drilled holes for the damper (thus the additional bracket). Hope that helps!
Don Dada meaning a gen 3 ls block. Pre 2004 4.8,5.3, 5.7, and 6.0. So ls1 ,lm7 ,lq4 lq9 etc. later year ls blocks had provisions for the damper already in the block so you don’t need the adapter.
@@codynelson6911 cool My block is a 2006 but didn't pay attention to that when I swapped my cam. Would I be okay as long as I'm not racing Torqer v2 cam 112 lsa 600intake 600 exhaust
Don Dada it’s not a necessity to run one. As stated in the video , the timing chain has slack that the chain sorta slaps back and forth. That slapping causes wear on the chain that will cause it to wear/stretch faster. The damper is to minimize that slapping effect, thus slow the wear on the timing chain. Is it essential, not at all. Is it nice insurance? Absolutely.
@@codynelson6911 wrong. My 2005 Hummer H2 has the Lq4 and it does not have those holes and does not have the dampener. I’m doing a cam swap right now and I did not see a dampener or holes for the dampener. So I would have to buy this kit.
@@buddyrebel_Garcia I believe it was when they started using the vvt cams that they incorporated the guide assemblies but not sure. My gen3 lq4 definitely does not have it either. Heed the warnings, the bolts included are made out of led! Absolute garbage and won’t survive even 15ft pds. pressing out the bushings isn’t going to happen by hand either, definitely need a press or big vise and it’s easy to mess up the plastic guide doing so.
So the bracket is for the early LS1 blocks that were not drilled from the factory for the dampener bolts. I am less familiar with the newer 5.3L blocks with VVT, etc. I "think" they are probably drilled for the dampener, but definitely do a bit more research to confirm. I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction since I haven't worked on that specific application.
The best way to do it is to replace the junk allen screw on the camshaft retainer plate by ARP 134-1002
I bought the damper kit..it is nice set up..but you can take those allen head screws and put them where they belong..in the TRASH.. they suck and strip very easily.. bought a new allen wrench to set them.. crap screws.. I took the factory bolts.. belt sander half the head off.. went right in.. good spacing and torque up easy and quick
Thanks for the video!! This is exactly what I was needing!!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Just a heads up on that product, you MUST enlarge the holes in the plastic guide ever so slightly to allow it to slide effortlessly on/off that metal bracket without enlarging them so much creating sloppy fitment. If you do not do this before installing it on the engine, you will not be able to get it off for servicing the timing set or camshaft and you will likely break the plastic guide or bend the metal bracket during your attempt to remove it. You cannot remove the timing chain/gears without removing that plastic guide first. First hand experience talking here. That plastic guide is a really really snug fit on the metal bracket
I didn't have to do that with mine. Mine fit perfectly.
What do you suggest drill bit wise to enlarge the hole a bit?
@@danmarley2926 i just used a rolled up piece of sandpaper in the holes and spun it by hand backwards making the paper want to unroll itself, which conformed itself to the size of the hole and apply enough pressure to remove material. Only a small amount was needed to be removed on my part
@@nickb2657 Thanks for the response, I'll definitely keep this in mind since I'll be purchasing this really soon.
Thank you I did not know this
Nice video! Couple of questions: I’m also curious installing a new crank sprocket, how do I determine how close to the block I press it in? Does the key sit flush with the outer edge of the sprocket?
BTW, I had a BTR damper, when I tried to press out the bushings, it broke the plastic damper into several pieces. The bushings are not smooth. They have an indented ring where the damper plastic holds it secure. I ordered a GM damper and will try again
My dampener has a “slide on”fit over a “press fit”. Not loose just slides on and off easy. Think it’s okay, or should I pick up a different dampener? Thanks
Will this fit on my 99 silverado 2500 6L ls1 i think
Hey Scruf, helpful videos. I have an LS1 (99 C5) that I’m installing BTR stage 1 cam, new oil pump and want to upgrade timing chain to LS2 with damper. The block has no damper holes for bolts so I need the Trick Flow adapter. It’s hard to see from your video but are you using a new cam retainer plate? Or is it all one piece from Trick Flow? Will this setup work with a double chain timing kit?
Yes, I used a new cam retainer plate. The TF adapter is a separate piece. I'm not sure if it would work with a double roller timing chain. The width of the chain would be thicker, though that might not really matter. Probably best to call Trick Flow to confirm. FWIW, I used an LS2 chain and was happy with it.
What is damper for? Excuse my low knowledge. I’m redoing my timing and would like to know exactly what it is for?
Good question. There will always be some amount of slack in the timing chain. The rotation of the timing chain around the timing gears can create a whipping action that produces a harmonic oscillation in the timing chain that can lead to premature failure. This typically more pronounced in road race applications that have sustained high rpm usage. But even for a street car, it's cheap insurance.
Scruf's Garage thank you very much! Very good info! My 04 GTO ls1 block has the pre-drilled and tapped holes from factory, so I won’t need that bigger bracket right?
Correct, if your block is already drilled for the damper, then you do not need the additional bracket.
Scruf's Garage again sir thank you very much! Have a great day!
@@ScrufsGarage so I shouldn’t use this tensioner if I’m not gonna be racing ?
Think ill be good if i installed a NEW retainer plate with the fresh o ring dry? There is no twisting or test fitting so i dont see how it could hurt
I think you should be probably be ok.
Would it be necessary to remove oil pump to install this?
Yes I think the oil pump is in the way. Take a look at the oil pump installation video I did. ( ruclips.net/video/xjuwwlALVzM/видео.html ) It looks like the oil pump would block the two bolts that hold the damper.
@@ScrufsGarage thanks. I'm going to attempt it by mounting the damper on the bracket first, then mounting to the cam retainer bolts. Removing oil pump is not an option for me, my pan will not drop low enough without pulling the motor.
gotcha. it sounds like that could work. definitely let me know how it works out, that might be able to help the next guy too!
@@ScrufsGarage I have an 03 remanned lq4 in my 05 cts-v, im installing this damper (if I can pull it off) pac beehives, Ti retainers, and a 114 lsa cam, little hotter than an ls6 grind, going in.
I'll definitely post up how that damper works out in a couple weeks, I don't see why I couldn't "hang it" behind the pump and, fish it by the chain.
How is this and how did it work?
It worked well, no complaints.
Will this fit a LQ9?
If upgrading to an LS2 timing chain. Does this upgrade have to be installed. Or can I just add the LS2 timing chain with Pugh dampener
Not required. The damper is optional. And this particular kit is for blocks that don't have the pre-drilled holes for the damper (thus the additional bracket). Hope that helps!
So exactly what is your definition of an early block? Sub'd
Don Dada meaning a gen 3 ls block. Pre 2004 4.8,5.3, 5.7, and 6.0. So ls1 ,lm7 ,lq4 lq9 etc. later year ls blocks had provisions for the damper already in the block so you don’t need the adapter.
@@codynelson6911 cool My block is a 2006 but didn't pay attention to that when I swapped my cam. Would I be okay as long as I'm not racing Torqer v2 cam 112 lsa 600intake 600 exhaust
Don Dada it’s not a necessity to run one. As stated in the video , the timing chain has slack that the chain sorta slaps back and forth. That slapping causes wear on the chain that will cause it to wear/stretch faster. The damper is to minimize that slapping effect, thus slow the wear on the timing chain. Is it essential, not at all. Is it nice insurance? Absolutely.
@@codynelson6911 wrong. My 2005 Hummer H2 has the Lq4 and it does not have those holes and does not have the dampener. I’m doing a cam swap right now and I did not see a dampener or holes for the dampener. So I would have to buy this kit.
@@buddyrebel_Garcia I believe it was when they started using the vvt cams that they incorporated the guide assemblies but not sure. My gen3 lq4 definitely does not have it either. Heed the warnings, the bolts included are made out of led! Absolute garbage and won’t survive even 15ft pds. pressing out the bushings isn’t going to happen by hand either, definitely need a press or big vise and it’s easy to mess up the plastic guide doing so.
Will this chain damper work on a 5.3 Gen IV LC9 engine? Or will I need the damper bracket?
So the bracket is for the early LS1 blocks that were not drilled from the factory for the dampener bolts. I am less familiar with the newer 5.3L blocks with VVT, etc. I "think" they are probably drilled for the dampener, but definitely do a bit more research to confirm. I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction since I haven't worked on that specific application.
Thank You.
No problem, happy to help.
why upgrade to this
Why jump to the end result?
Be nice to show the entire installation 🤷🏻♂️
Piece of crap bolts included in this kit. Heads stripped before reaching torque. Ground down head of some arp bolts used those instead.