As noted, this same method works for many different brands of metal-bodied converters. Today I repaired a Pilot converter from the 1980s, using the shaft of a drill bit to support the plug while it was wiggled out with padded pliers (it was either 5.5 or 6mm -- use whatever is a snug fit). The replacement sac was a #14 in transparent PVC, which was a tight fit. #15 would be better but is a size only available in latex and silicone, not PVC.
And thank you, David, for supplying kits on eBay to restore Sheaffer Snorkel pens. I did one last night with parts purchased from you, and it came out very nicely!
Great video. Why not just buy a new slide style one? Or does this sack style work better? I just got a vintage Parker 25 set (new old stock) with this style filler and the rubber seems to be fine. Thx
I fix mines using shink tubing for wires or polypropylene soda straws (you have to melt one side) 🤣. Prices for sacs are ridicolous here and they are not really needed for squizing anyways. I think I could even make "vacumatic" sacs using other sorts of soft pipes or latex.
The original sacs in the metal sac protectors look like the pli-glass inside an aero 51. Do you think the repro ones David Nishimura sells could be substituted for the opaque black rubber that you used, so one can see remaining ink levels? Thanks for the informative video!
Other companies have used transparent PVC sacs inside converters, but that wasn't the case with Parker. All of the standard converters I've seen have used standard black latex rubber sacs. Unfortunately, the PVC 51 sacs are just a bit too large to fit, though I've used them in converters for other brands.
We now have slender PVC transparent sacs, #14 size. These will fit Snorkels and early Parker 51 Demis, as well as Slimfolds. They would of course also be an option for converter repair.
thicker, slower curing CA (super) glue should work well too, to attach a new sac. slip a thin wire between niple and sac, let a small drop seep into the gap, and move the wire around 1-2 revolutions before pulling it out, and djusting the position of the sac. this is how the tires are attached to some RC car wheels.
CA (cyanoacrilate) glues are not recommended for sac attachment. The problem is that CA bonds too strongly to the sac nipple, unlike traditional shellac which is readily removed with gentle heat when it comes time to replace the sac.
Hello, Just new to fountain pens for everyday writing, not so into technicals. I was wondering if you could please help me. My grandma just gave me 2 parker 21's that belonged to my uncle, super flighter, I think? They have arrow clips. They haven't been used since the 70s and non of the 2 really work. I recently just soaked the insides (point unit, converter) in some water and detergent to clean up the dried ink. One seems fine, but still not writing :( I think it's filling up, coz it's been dripping ink overnight, but the ink is not coming out where it's suppose to be. The other one, well, when I got it, the converter is stuck tight to the barrel. I live in the Philippines and the parts are really difficult. Is there a modern fix to this? like modern off the shelf parts? I'd really like to used them. Thank you for any help you may provide
youhave to use your imagination fellow thirdwolder. i've done converters using plastic straws or even 1ml srynges. you can even just squize an old cartridge if it's flexibel enough
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As noted, this same method works for many different brands of metal-bodied converters. Today I repaired a Pilot converter from the 1980s, using the shaft of a drill bit to support the plug while it was wiggled out with padded pliers (it was either 5.5 or 6mm -- use whatever is a snug fit). The replacement sac was a #14 in transparent PVC, which was a tight fit. #15 would be better but is a size only available in latex and silicone, not PVC.
At last - a really useful, practical guide that's easy to follow - thanks very much!
Happy to hear that it was helpful
Glad to share -- more videos to come soon!
David
And thank you, David, for supplying kits on eBay to restore Sheaffer Snorkel pens. I did one last night with parts purchased from you, and it came out very nicely!
A masterpiece of repair!
Great video. Why not just buy a new slide style one? Or does this sack style work better? I just got a vintage Parker 25 set (new old stock) with this style filler and the rubber seems to be fine. Thx
Many prefer the older converters, and they certainly have a good solid feel compared to the current all-plastic design.
I fix mines using shink tubing for wires or polypropylene soda straws (you have to melt one side) 🤣. Prices for sacs are ridicolous here and they are not really needed for squizing anyways. I think I could even make "vacumatic" sacs using other sorts of soft pipes or latex.
Interesting topic...Anybody knows Which size does Waterman CF converter take?? Thank you
What a legend~!
thank you~!
Hi, where to buy the sac for Parker 45?
I found this online after searching for Parker ink sacs, www.etsy.com. they have all the stuff you need.
One more... for Parker 45 sac # 16 according to this video. $6.71 for 2 sacs. they also have shellac.
www.vintagepens.com
The original sacs in the metal sac protectors look like the pli-glass inside an aero 51. Do you think the repro ones David Nishimura sells could be substituted for the opaque black rubber that you used, so one can see remaining ink levels?
Thanks for the informative video!
Other companies have used transparent PVC sacs inside converters, but that wasn't the case with Parker. All of the standard converters I've seen have used standard black latex rubber sacs. Unfortunately, the PVC 51 sacs are just a bit too large to fit, though I've used them in converters for other brands.
We now have slender PVC transparent sacs, #14 size. These will fit Snorkels and early Parker 51 Demis, as well as Slimfolds. They would of course also be an option for converter repair.
thicker, slower curing CA (super) glue should work well too, to attach a new sac. slip a thin wire between niple and sac, let a small drop seep into the gap, and move the wire around 1-2 revolutions before pulling it out, and djusting the position of the sac.
this is how the tires are attached to some RC car wheels.
CA (cyanoacrilate) glues are not recommended for sac attachment. The problem is that CA bonds too strongly to the sac nipple, unlike traditional shellac which is readily removed with gentle heat when it comes time to replace the sac.
Hello,
Just new to fountain pens for everyday writing, not so into technicals. I was wondering if you could please help me.
My grandma just gave me 2 parker 21's that belonged to my uncle, super flighter, I think? They have arrow clips. They haven't been used since the 70s and non of the 2 really work. I recently just soaked the insides (point unit, converter) in some water and detergent to clean up the dried ink. One seems fine, but still not writing :( I think it's filling up, coz it's been dripping ink overnight, but the ink is not coming out where it's suppose to be. The other one, well, when I got it, the converter is stuck tight to the barrel.
I live in the Philippines and the parts are really difficult. Is there a modern fix to this? like modern off the shelf parts? I'd really like to used them.
Thank you for any help you may provide
You could just use parker cartridges instead
youhave to use your imagination fellow thirdwolder. i've done converters using plastic straws or even 1ml srynges. you can even just squize an old cartridge if it's flexibel enough
Nice video. Where I can get the sac.
Among other places, www.vintagepens.com, and the Pen Sac Company.
Does this method work for parker 21
This is for converter repair. The Parker 21 does not use a converter.
This type of converter name is
Make the video for Sheaffer convertor also
The same techniques can be applied to many other makers' converters.
hellow mister..
how can l get a rapper tube ?
l want a lot of rapper tube
Do you mean a rubber tube (ink sac)? They can be ordered from www.vintagepens.com
@@davidnishimura469 thank you very much for care