Holly shit this is a hit another great video by Mr HVAC KNOW IT ALL.... Thanks for taking the time to record and share your videos.... This is like having a personal HVAC instructor every where..
Great tool, gas pressure is so important. Sometimes, when a unit has too many unexplained shutdowns due to flame failure or cannot satisfy the thermostat, a gas line pressure test should be done. Plug your tester into the line side with gas shut off. Then, open the line valve. The pressure you read on the meter with no combustion is called static pressure. If your gas service is rated for 7” to 14”w.c., you should read no more than the manufacturers specified inlet pressure for that valve. Some valves have the inlet pressure in psi: 1/2 psi = 14” w.c., for example. Then, with your meter still connected to the line side, start the unit and go to second stage or full modulation. The gas code reference for a 7” to 14” service says the line side pressure must not drop more than 1” w.c. The pressure you read on the line side during operation is called the working pressure. Say you had 7” static but dropped to 5.5” working. - that’s a problem. You might not be getting enough volume of gas even if your manifold reads over 3” w.c. Be sure to clock the meter to confirm input on high fire. The excessive pressure drop problem must be investigated/corrected - maybe there’s a restriction in the pipeline or its undersized for your unit. Maybe the regulator orifice is too small.....
Good video, I'm sure you probably know but just in case you don't, you should use a tee in line with your pressure switch, that way if there's a leak in the diaphragm of the pressure switch you'll be able to tell because you'll be measuring the true pressure reading with the switch in the circuit.👍👍
@@HVACKnowItAll Thank you for the reply! Still looks cool and rugged but I’m sure there’s similar and updated ones out there… keep up the great vids and I’ll be watching 👍
Thanks for the tips. Don't work on furnaces so forgive the elementary question.. Does the switch require 0.1 of pressure to maintain the gas valve open?
@@HVACKnowItAll So would you suspect switch failing closed? since your reading is less that -.0.10 or does "wheelhouse" allow for the 10% discrepancy? Since the hose was disconnected from the switch during this test, can I assume that the unit was not firing and gas valve was closed?
@@davejohnsonnola2758 that reading is -0.89 that he has, if he swapped it onto the positive port of his manometer it would read -0.89. That's more than enough draft needed to satisfy the switch. -0.89 is a much stronger negative draft than -0.10.
$92.00 at Trutechtools.com use this link for preferred testo pricing docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeOC8oQB97trj6XKDWRylM2ILFlnVjYG1GnTT2lRWT8-K4weQ/viewform
Holly shit this is a hit another great video by Mr HVAC KNOW IT ALL.... Thanks for taking the time to record and share your videos.... This is like having a personal HVAC instructor every where..
my pleasure and thank you!
Great tool, gas pressure is so important. Sometimes, when a unit has too many unexplained shutdowns due to flame failure or cannot satisfy the thermostat, a gas line pressure test should be done. Plug your tester into the line side with gas shut off. Then, open the line valve. The pressure you read on the meter with no combustion is called static pressure. If your gas service is rated for 7” to 14”w.c., you should read no more than the manufacturers specified inlet pressure for that valve. Some valves have the inlet pressure in psi: 1/2 psi = 14” w.c., for example. Then, with your meter still connected to the line side, start the unit and go to second stage or full modulation. The gas code reference for a 7” to 14” service says the line side pressure must not drop more than 1” w.c. The pressure you read on the line side during operation is called the working pressure. Say you had 7” static but dropped to 5.5” working. - that’s a problem. You might not be getting enough volume of gas even if your manifold reads over 3” w.c. Be sure to clock the meter to confirm input on high fire. The excessive pressure drop problem must be investigated/corrected - maybe there’s a restriction in the pipeline or its undersized for your unit. Maybe the regulator orifice is too small.....
The tool is great, I appreciate you taking the time to watch and commenting Ian
Man I can get into the SMART probes like I thought I would. Great video
+Channel Cat Chaser Great stuff and thank you!
Good video, I'm sure you probably know but just in case you don't, you should use a tee in line with your pressure switch, that way if there's a leak in the diaphragm of the pressure switch you'll be able to tell because you'll be measuring the true pressure reading with the switch in the circuit.👍👍
How is the range from the psi probe to your phone? is it the same as the other Testo probes?
Great Demo! Looks like a very cool tool.
Thank you, the tool is awesome
Like the 101 style of the tool review.
Great video bro. Keep it up!
Thank you!
thanks good buddy
Cheers
U should mention the fitting ur using to connect to the gas valve isnt included and needed to test
The barbed fitting?
HVAC Know It All yes sir
That's what I wondering
He won’t mention the fitting one ⭐️ for that😅
Awesome video. I’m new to hvac and will definitely follow you. Cool phone as well… what type of phone do you have?
This is an old video and that phone is a Sonim, not a very good one.
@@HVACKnowItAll Thank you for the reply! Still looks cool and rugged but I’m sure there’s similar and updated ones out there… keep up the great vids and I’ll be watching 👍
Nice bro good video
thank you steve!
Been thinking about getting that tool.
@@Gameboy_Steve it's pretty awesome
How do you like that phone? Looks like it can take a beating.
It can take a beating and has a great speaker on it. But that's it, the rest of it is terrible.
Nice manometer!
Yah, it's badass
Where do you get that adapter for the gas valve to connect to the tubing?
Brass firring supplier will carry them
Very informative 😍
Like and shr with bel 👍
Thank you!
How do you change it to wc on the app
On the settings
Thanks for the tips.
Don't work on furnaces so forgive the elementary question.. Does the switch require 0.1 of pressure to maintain the gas valve open?
Yes that's correct, -0.10
@@HVACKnowItAll So would you suspect switch failing closed? since your reading is less that -.0.10 or does "wheelhouse" allow for the 10% discrepancy? Since the hose was disconnected from the switch during this test, can I assume that the unit was not firing and gas valve was closed?
@@davejohnsonnola2758 that reading is -0.89 that he has, if he swapped it onto the positive port of his manometer it would read -0.89. That's more than enough draft needed to satisfy the switch. -0.89 is a much stronger negative draft than -0.10.
Price?
Less than $100 made by testo,, great HVACR instruments
$92.00 at Trutechtools.com use this link for preferred testo pricing
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeOC8oQB97trj6XKDWRylM2ILFlnVjYG1GnTT2lRWT8-K4weQ/viewform
👍