Wow, great work. It's crazy how obscure the true operation of the logic boards and stuff are to someone who isn't prepared to analyze circuits at a EE level. I really appreciate what you've done here.
Thanks for your comment. I have not done this with a BLDC, but I have repaired a EGO 14" chainsaw BLDC controller, retrofitted a cheaper controller on the EGO blower and I also used a cheap controller to get a Ridgid Brushless jigsaw back going instead of just letting it go to the landfill. This may not interest you, but thought I would at least mention it since you have taken the time for a positive comment. Thanks again.
Amazing work. I'd actually prefer this modified version to the original as I feel there's less to go wrong now. I don't need fancy, I need reliable. Thank you so much.
Good for everyone. Unfortunately, I also have this device. I applied this scheme and I think it didn't solve the problems. And there are enough of them. The first is that the piston must stop, and here it does not happen, it works constantly, and the 50 mm nail is difficult to hammer, because the rod before the rod has time to drive the nail, goes back, for this there was a sensor with a magnet, and we threw it out of the chain. Smaller-sized nails come in better, but the rod moves so fast that in one click two pieces have time to fly out. I have a different principle of work in my head. Apply the nailer and press, the top key closes the circuit and waits for the trigger to be pressed, as soon as the rod hits, the sensor on the piston turns off the entire chain and so on in a circle. And here it turns out differently. In any case, the attempt deserves praise, but unfortunately the nailer in this form will not be able to help normally.
Have P320 opened up on the bench right now. Both the disassembly and repair videos are top notch. Appreciate the safety remarks on modifying (any) tools away from factory operation. I ordered the recommended relay. (I hope it worked for you - fit & function) I may have missed it but what value fuse did you install? In the nailer I'm working on, resistors R68 & R 69 showed evidence of severe overheating. The thermal fuse is intact though. Not worth finding and replacing resistors if the problem on the main board. Makes ya wonder just how many P320 end up in the land fill? Thanks very much for your videos.
I believe I had to bend the blade pins of the relay a little on mine but it fit. I should have just snipped them off and soldered on to them really like I did the coil pins. I believe I used a 30A mini ATC fuse for mine. Thanks for your comment! Best of luck to ya!
Hello sir, really liked your informative video but I’m curious if you’ve had a chance to work on a P322 which is the new brushless hp version. Does the hammer pin/tongue face up or down in regard to the indentation on the top/ bottom? It appears to be opposite of the P320.
Thanks!!! I had a flashing led airstrike (used it three times) The repair was simple, I had a small 12vdc relay, and fuse. An hour later my airstrike was working again...
Hi my nail gun died the same and I want to do what you have done by taking the electric guts out. So what relay and fuse did you use and where to purchase them?Thanks
That's so awesome.... Companies are mad already, because instead buying new tools you can just modified and good to go for a longer time now. My question is the battery will last the same? Without all the components
I could see how the battery pack could pull down faster because the stops are not there to position the piston everytime it fires. It sometimes has to make more than just one complete revolution to fire, but that's the trade off of course. Thanks for your comment.
Hi, Thanks for your comment. I added links in the video description, but it's been a while and they may be non working now. It's similar to the relay below. They seem to be harder to find now unless ordering from China. I tried to help search a little here. I live in Georgia and we were just hit hard with Helene almost no internet and some still without power. Hope it helps. www.ebay.com/itm/363129063055?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kD0pGm4AQHS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=D_qZMHXJQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I have a sears craftsman speed shot its identical except for battery mount and its black used it when a quick thunder shower hit had the flashing led since. I thought I could get replacement board from ryobi since craftsman has changed to black and decker but even ryobi lists switch and board module obsolete. Will try your fix thanks for the video
I have started it got a few more wires to solder and find a fuse and holder. Will send you reply when completed. I really liked the tool and had no issues. Was just finishing off a job when a sudden thunder shower hit and shorted out something on the board.Should have known better@@josephrival951
I really like your fix on this Ryobi nail gun. I got one cheap and of course it was busted. I’m trying to find that relay but I’m having a hard time finding one. Any chance you have a part number for it?
I have a link in the video description for the 24V 25A relay I would use. It is cheaper and higher current rating as well. I have Amazon link and eBay link if needed. The relay I used as a make shift in the video I already had and was from a relay set and is more expensive with the multi base. I would use the cheaper higher current relay for it next time.
Corrosion has most likely set in. Most people don't realize it's not really the water itself that is so bad and pure water would not even harm most boards. The impurities in water and how it gets in to every part of the circuit board and then the green crusties start showing up from the all the impurities causing corrosion on components. Sometimes plastic safe contact cleaner and 99% IPA can help, but not always.
I understand your situation, but I would not. This will be the get by in a tight fix. I personally would just have a plan. Meaning I would have the relay etc. The JIC relay...Just in case 😁
Does anyone know where to purchase replacement bump actuator (the part that holds the plastic bumper pad) shown in 16:24 and 16:26 of this video? thanks
Thank you for this amazing video. In my case I just need to replace the 2 resistors sitting with the thermal fuse. I tried to find online, asked in reddit, ended up getting 1 ohm 1 watt metal film resistors but these don't work. I bypassed the resistors and the tool runs for a second (before jump wire burnt out). Can you please help me identify those resistors. Looks like it has 5 black bands (or one gray in the middle), can't find anything with same color band or even the size. Thermal fuse was also blown, replaced with 100C.
I believe they are 1.5ohm 3W. it's been a while and I don't have the board anymore. If you had room you could even put a 10W resistor in there instead. A 1 ohm would most likely be fine, I can't remember if you have the room for it or not. Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you! This is very helpful. Would these 1.5 ohm 3watt resistors fit right? www.amazon.com/dp/B08LW3LD6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_GYS5B8J8KRQ8A9JQC0DG
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you, I need your help again. I got 1.5ohm 3watt resistor and the resistors burnt out dead immediately when I connected the battery, even before reaching to the switch. Does that mean I need to increase the resistance? Would 10 watt 1.5ohm still work if I try to get those next?
I would check the little Mosfet that fires (turns on) the resistors for the braking resistors. They can only handle a few seconds of the power dissapation. If power is applied all the time it will absolutely fry them in no time. If the Mosfets that activates the brake is not shorted then what ever is giving it the signal to activate Is shorted. I always thought the microcontroller activates the brake using the feedback from the reed switches on the side of the cylinder for position feedback, but I am not 100% sure. I have not traced it down that far.
You are a little too late for me- I could not get my Ryobi nail gun working a couple of months ago. I wish I would have seen your video sooner. Great work though. Thanks.
What are you asking? If you're asking about orientation then the "line" which is the cathode side goes toward the positive. If you have a motor in a drill for example that changes direction then you must not connect the diode in this manner. It must be placed further down on the power before it gets swapped.
It's hard to find one like it now for sure. That's an older video. I can only find one close like this link below. I don't know how they will hold up though. It's just a possible example. Let me know if you are electronics savy and don't mind playing around and trying something new. I do see a unusual option that could be made to work using mosfets. It's a small board priced at about $35 though. I will try one eventually. It may or may not work out, but has promise and I have not seen anything quite like it. amzn.to/3TAy2MM
BTW This is the board is was talking about. It's interesting, but I know nothing about it yet... www.thornwave.com/products/tl-ssr-24v-80a-dc-unidirectional-solid-state-relay-ssr
Those look like dual 1 ohm (not 2 ohm) resistors, right? You're much more knowledgeable than I, but I'm just wondering if that was a typo Edit: oddly enough, mine actually test as 1.5 or 2 ohm. I guess the burnt surface just made all the bands look like black or brown
It's been awhile, but if I remember I did go off of ohms measurement in parallel since mine were burned beyond the color bands being very legible. Thanks for sharing!
@@70ki70 I believe I used two 1.5 ohm 3W resistors, but the more important part to replace is that thermal fuse. I bought this set of three on Amazon: "3Pcs New SF96U-1 NEC Microtemp Thermal Fuse" They are rated at 99°C rather than 100°, but so far everything's worked great since replacing the two resistors and one thermal fuse. I got the resistors as an assortment of 3W resistors on Amazon too. So the big issue is yes those resistors got too hot, but in my case they were still functional, despite appearing burnt. I just replaced them anyways because it was easy to do. But the actual reason the gun won't work is because the thermal fuse burned out, so again that is the critical step
@@70ki70 no problem, I hope you give it a shot. I only wish I knew what burned these up in the first place so I could prevent it from happening in the first place. But so far I've probably driven a few dozen nails over a month or two and have had no problems
Under the video description I list a 25A relay that I would like to try. I also listed thermal fuse assortment if needed. I did not see a way to buy the relay I used by itself it is from Automation Direct as a Ziplink kit so it is pricey as a kit. I just happen to have it in spare parts to tinker with. So I found one on Amazon I would like to try. It is listed in description, since it is very reasonably priced. Just suggestions since viewers are asking, I have not tried them to say for sure. It is what I will buy to try if my 12A really fails! Best of luck to ya!
Well that exact relay is from a Automation direct relay Zip Link board I had with bases mounted to it. It is a pcb style relay. I did put one in description that I want to try from Amazon. It is 25A 24V still small. I have not gotten it yet to say for sure about delivery time?
The best way to me is find someone locally selling like new and used tools alot either on market place or local flea market that you can tell are from store returns and they usually have piles of non working tools stored somewhere. After asking a few sellers at the markets usually at least one will tell you to come check out the pile and they sell you a lot of them for just parts etc. The other option is trying to buy non-working items from eBay but shipping is hardly worth it. Local is much better.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks so much for the information. I was was trying to find it on Amazon and wasn’t having much luck. I’ll try to find the links you mentioned.
Hola una consulta, a ti tambien te paso lo del sobrecalentamiento de los resistores, de ser asi como los arreglaste?, donde compraste los repuestos, saludos
@@70ki70 hola... yo tenia el mismo problema del video.. se quemaron los termofusibles o resistencias termicas... yo hice exactamente lo que hace en el video y me funciono perfecto.. solo hay que ver y seguir los pasos del video... mas bien queda directo y ya no tiene las resistencias termicas....
I have a cheaper and more current rated option in the video description. In the video I used one I had, but it is a kinda expensive relay from Automation Direct. It was part of the zip link relay base so it is more expensive than we need for this. It was the only one I had that would fit in there during the repair, but I have since ordered the ones in the video link. They are rated better and much cheaper!
![[STEP BY STEP] Ryobi P320 Airstrike Fix (not firing nails)](/img/1.gif)
Thank you for your insight. I appreciate you taking the time and helping us tinkerers that mange to get things open and don’t have a clue what to do.
Wow, great work. It's crazy how obscure the true operation of the logic boards and stuff are to someone who isn't prepared to analyze circuits at a EE level. I really appreciate what you've done here.
I love the thorough educational breakdown this guy shows..thank you sir!
Thank you so much for your kind comment!
Nice informative video brother. I love it! You sound like Jimmy Carter & also the Southern wolf on the cartoons👍👍
awesome... man u did a great work. i modified my p18 braid nailer and now its working fine... thank u so much for helping...😊😊😊
Refreshing to watch someone who actually knows about electronics. I challenge you to do something similar for a brushless motor
Thanks for your comment. I have not done this with a BLDC, but I have repaired a EGO 14" chainsaw BLDC controller, retrofitted a cheaper controller on the EGO blower and I also used a cheap controller to get a Ridgid Brushless jigsaw back going instead of just letting it go to the landfill. This may not interest you, but thought I would at least mention it since you have taken the time for a positive comment. Thanks again.
Amazing work. I'd actually prefer this modified version to the original as I feel there's less to go wrong now. I don't need fancy, I need reliable. Thank you so much.
I love the ingenuity
Good for everyone. Unfortunately, I also have this device. I applied this scheme and I think it didn't solve the problems. And there are enough of them. The first is that the piston must stop, and here it does not happen, it works constantly, and the 50 mm nail is difficult to hammer, because the rod before the rod has time to drive the nail, goes back, for this there was a sensor with a magnet, and we threw it out of the chain. Smaller-sized nails come in better, but the rod moves so fast that in one click two pieces have time to fly out. I have a different principle of work in my head. Apply the nailer and press, the top key closes the circuit and waits for the trigger to be pressed, as soon as the rod hits, the sensor on the piston turns off the entire chain and so on in a circle. And here it turns out differently. In any case, the attempt deserves praise, but unfortunately the nailer in this form will not be able to help normally.
Fantastic video! Well made.
Have P320 opened up on the bench right now. Both the disassembly and repair videos are top notch. Appreciate the safety remarks on modifying (any) tools away from factory operation. I ordered the recommended relay. (I hope it worked for you - fit & function) I may have missed it but what value fuse did you install? In the nailer I'm working on, resistors R68 & R 69 showed evidence of severe overheating. The thermal fuse is intact though. Not worth finding and replacing resistors if the problem on the main board. Makes ya wonder just how many P320 end up in the land fill? Thanks very much for your videos.
I believe I had to bend the blade pins of the relay a little on mine but it fit. I should have just snipped them off and soldered on to them really like I did the coil pins. I believe I used a 30A mini ATC fuse for mine. Thanks for your comment! Best of luck to ya!
Hi, i need to change the resistors too, can you tell where i can find the replacement please.
Hello sir, really liked your informative video but I’m curious if you’ve had a chance to work on a P322 which is the new brushless hp version. Does the hammer pin/tongue face up or down in regard to the indentation on the top/ bottom? It appears to be opposite of the P320.
Sorry I have not worked on the P322 at all. Hopefully someone on here has and can answer? Thanks for your kind comment!
Thanks!!!
I had a flashing led airstrike (used it three times)
The repair was simple, I had a small 12vdc relay, and fuse.
An hour later my airstrike was working again...
Hi, what amp was that relay?
Hi my nail gun died the same and I want to do what you have done by taking the electric guts out. So what relay and fuse did you use and where to purchase them?Thanks
Does anyone know the rating on the diode he uses? Thanks!
It has been a while, I believe I used a 3A 200V diode I already had since the time quenching the load is minimum.
I just want to thank you for taking the time to make this video !!! and hell yes I subscribed!!! (Y)
That's so awesome.... Companies are mad already, because instead buying new tools you can just modified and good to go for a longer time now. My question is the battery will last the same? Without all the components
I could see how the battery pack could pull down faster because the stops are not there to position the piston everytime it fires. It sometimes has to make more than just one complete revolution to fire, but that's the trade off of course. Thanks for your comment.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you for your fast reply, you earn a subscriber. This video is so helpful..
I just bought mine a couple of months ago it was working fine then just stopped. Tools should last longer than this.
Hi , I like your videos, can you tell me what size relay and fuse used in this repair and where to purchase them. Thanks
Hi,
Thanks for your comment. I added links in the video description, but it's been a while and they may be non working now. It's similar to the relay below. They seem to be harder to find now unless ordering from China. I tried to help search a little here. I live in Georgia and we were just hit hard with Helene almost no internet and some still without power. Hope it helps.
www.ebay.com/itm/363129063055?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kD0pGm4AQHS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=D_qZMHXJQNK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I have a sears craftsman speed shot its identical except for battery mount and its black used it when a quick thunder shower hit had the flashing led since. I thought I could get replacement board from ryobi since craftsman has changed to black and decker but even ryobi lists switch and board module obsolete. Will try your fix thanks for the video
I have the same Craftsman Speedshot, have you tried this fix yet? If so, did it work?
I have started it got a few more wires to solder and find a fuse and holder. Will send you reply when completed. I really liked the tool and had no issues. Was just finishing off a job when a sudden thunder shower hit and shorted out something on the board.Should have known better@@josephrival951
Genius!
I really like your fix on this Ryobi nail gun. I got one cheap and of course it was busted. I’m trying to find that relay but I’m having a hard time finding one. Any chance you have a part number for it?
I have a link in the video description for the 24V 25A relay I would use. It is cheaper and higher current rating as well. I have Amazon link and eBay link if needed. The relay I used as a make shift in the video I already had and was from a relay set and is more expensive with the multi base. I would use the cheaper higher current relay for it next time.
My Ryobi got wet when I was working outside, I let it dry out and after that it hasn't worked. The light still comes on but w ont shoot
Corrosion has most likely set in. Most people don't realize it's not really the water itself that is so bad and pure water would not even harm most boards. The impurities in water and how it gets in to every part of the circuit board and then the green crusties start showing up from the all the impurities causing corrosion on components. Sometimes plastic safe contact cleaner and 99% IPA can help, but not always.
Would you say it's a good idea to do this in advance? I would hate to wait til it breaks and find out when I need it for a job.
I understand your situation, but I would not. This will be the get by in a tight fix. I personally would just have a plan. Meaning I would have the relay etc. The JIC relay...Just in case 😁
Does anyone know where to purchase replacement bump actuator (the part that holds the plastic bumper pad) shown in 16:24 and 16:26 of this video? thanks
If it's the no-marbumpers, this is just one example....
amzn.to/3gyjIEv
Is there Way to bypass the safety? Broke the tip on mine.
Thank you for this amazing video. In my case I just need to replace the 2 resistors sitting with the thermal fuse. I tried to find online, asked in reddit, ended up getting 1 ohm 1 watt metal film resistors but these don't work. I bypassed the resistors and the tool runs for a second (before jump wire burnt out). Can you please help me identify those resistors. Looks like it has 5 black bands (or one gray in the middle), can't find anything with same color band or even the size. Thermal fuse was also blown, replaced with 100C.
I believe they are 1.5ohm 3W. it's been a while and I don't have the board anymore. If you had room you could even put a 10W resistor in there instead. A 1 ohm would most likely be fine, I can't remember if you have the room for it or not. Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you! This is very helpful. Would these 1.5 ohm 3watt resistors fit right? www.amazon.com/dp/B08LW3LD6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_GYS5B8J8KRQ8A9JQC0DG
I would just be guessing. I no longer have the board. I would think they would fit fine.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you, I need your help again. I got 1.5ohm 3watt resistor and the resistors burnt out dead immediately when I connected the battery, even before reaching to the switch. Does that mean I need to increase the resistance? Would 10 watt 1.5ohm still work if I try to get those next?
I would check the little Mosfet that fires (turns on) the resistors for the braking resistors. They can only handle a few seconds of the power dissapation. If power is applied all the time it will absolutely fry them in no time. If the Mosfets that activates the brake is not shorted then what ever is giving it the signal to activate Is shorted. I always thought the microcontroller activates the brake using the feedback from the reed switches on the side of the cylinder for position feedback, but I am not 100% sure. I have not traced it down that far.
You are a little too late for me- I could not get my Ryobi nail gun working a couple of months ago. I wish I would have seen your video sooner. Great work though. Thanks.
may brother. diode connects between - and + motor using what type of diode code?
What are you asking? If you're asking about orientation then the "line" which is the cathode side goes toward the positive. If you have a motor in a drill for example that changes direction then you must not connect the diode in this manner. It must be placed further down on the power before it gets swapped.
I have a 25v 4 port relay how would I connect the safety, let's and fire button to the relay?
I shared a diagram of what I connected at around 14:46 in the video.
@@ThriftyToolShed Awesome just needed to watch the whole video. thanks again
@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for the video!!! The relay is currently unavailable... could you be so kind as to point me in the right direction...
It's hard to find one like it now for sure. That's an older video. I can only find one close like this link below. I don't know how they will hold up though. It's just a possible example. Let me know if you are electronics savy and don't mind playing around and trying something new. I do see a unusual option that could be made to work using mosfets. It's a small board priced at about $35 though. I will try one eventually. It may or may not work out, but has promise and I have not seen anything quite like it.
amzn.to/3TAy2MM
BTW
This is the board is was talking about. It's interesting, but I know nothing about it yet...
www.thornwave.com/products/tl-ssr-24v-80a-dc-unidirectional-solid-state-relay-ssr
Those look like dual 1 ohm (not 2 ohm) resistors, right? You're much more knowledgeable than I, but I'm just wondering if that was a typo
Edit: oddly enough, mine actually test as 1.5 or 2 ohm. I guess the burnt surface just made all the bands look like black or brown
It's been awhile, but if I remember I did go off of ohms measurement in parallel since mine were burned beyond the color bands being very legible. Thanks for sharing!
Hi, my resistor burnt too, what did you use at the end, and where did you find them. Thanks in advanced
@@70ki70 I believe I used two 1.5 ohm 3W resistors, but the more important part to replace is that thermal fuse. I bought this set of three on Amazon: "3Pcs New SF96U-1 NEC Microtemp Thermal Fuse"
They are rated at 99°C rather than 100°, but so far everything's worked great since replacing the two resistors and one thermal fuse. I got the resistors as an assortment of 3W resistors on Amazon too.
So the big issue is yes those resistors got too hot, but in my case they were still functional, despite appearing burnt. I just replaced them anyways because it was easy to do. But the actual reason the gun won't work is because the thermal fuse burned out, so again that is the critical step
@@RoshDroz thanks for the reply
@@70ki70 no problem, I hope you give it a shot. I only wish I knew what burned these up in the first place so I could prevent it from happening in the first place. But so far I've probably driven a few dozen nails over a month or two and have had no problems
Can you try this on a porter cable cordless nail gun.
I do not have one to know for sure. It may be more like the Ridgid with motor clutch and solenoid. Still could be possible.
Wish you could fix mine , doing the same thing
If it's possible can you write down what exactly the part that i need to buy so I can order
Under the video description I list a 25A relay that I would like to try. I also listed thermal fuse assortment if needed. I did not see a way to buy the relay I used by itself it is from Automation Direct as a Ziplink kit so it is pricey as a kit. I just happen to have it in spare parts to tinker with. So I found one on Amazon I would like to try. It is listed in description, since it is very reasonably priced. Just suggestions since viewers are asking, I have not tried them to say for sure. It is what I will buy to try if my 12A really fails! Best of luck to ya!
Thanks again you did a nice job on it. I received my for free so I really would like to fix it i don't have anything to lose.
is that relay available locally or does it have to be ordered from China?
Well that exact relay is from a Automation direct relay Zip Link board I had with bases mounted to it. It is a pcb style relay. I did put one in description that I want to try from Amazon. It is 25A 24V still small. I have not gotten it yet to say for sure about delivery time?
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the quick reply , I overlooked the description area.
Where can I find none working units for relatively cheap?
The best way to me is find someone locally selling like new and used tools alot either on market place or local flea market that you can tell are from store returns and they usually have piles of non working tools stored somewhere. After asking a few sellers at the markets usually at least one will tell you to come check out the pile and they sell you a lot of them for just parts etc. The other option is trying to buy non-working items from eBay but shipping is hardly worth it. Local is much better.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks so much for the information. I was was trying to find it on Amazon and wasn’t having much luck. I’ll try to find the links you mentioned.
I have non working tools, what is your location?
Mine got lil rain. After that just blinking lights.
Dang! That's not good.
thanks!!... lo hice y quedo funcionando muy bien... gracias por tu aporte...
Hola una consulta, a ti tambien te paso lo del sobrecalentamiento de los resistores, de ser asi como los arreglaste?, donde compraste los repuestos, saludos
@@70ki70 hola... yo tenia el mismo problema del video.. se quemaron los termofusibles o resistencias termicas... yo hice exactamente lo que hace en el video y me funciono perfecto.. solo hay que ver y seguir los pasos del video... mas bien queda directo y ya no tiene las resistencias termicas....
what name the relay sir
I have a cheaper and more current rated option in the video description. In the video I used one I had, but it is a kinda expensive relay from Automation Direct. It was part of the zip link relay base so it is more expensive than we need for this. It was the only one I had that would fit in there during the repair, but I have since ordered the ones in the video link. They are rated better and much cheaper!