Underexposing at night time is not only useful to recover details, it is one of the first things to do as it basically comes down to you telling your camera meter "It's dark but it's normal, it's night time" otherwise, your camera will try to expose as for daylight and ISO will be too high and shutter speeds too low (assuming you are shooting in aperture priority)
Yup, I never understood the need for exposure compensation until I shot some pictures at night. Lights will be blown out and there will be camera movement in the pictures when you shoot without it.
@@micheleg.2244 Depends on the situation. I took a lot of pictures at a night market in Taipei a while back; lots of neon and other lights on the food stalls in an otherwise very dark environment. I shot my Tamron 20-40mm mostly at f2.8 auto ISO limited at max 6400 and shutter locked at 1/60th minimum. Exposure compensation sweet spot varied between -2.0 an -3.0. I just make sure the artificial lights don't look totally blown out in the viewerfinder.
Good stuff Eren. I am in complete agreement with burst mode. Especially at night. It’s just another useful tool we’re blessed with in digital photography so why not take advantage. Always helps nail that low light shot.
Just to clarify, increasing ISO does not increase your sensor's sensitivity to light. It sounds counter-intuitive, but ISO is a film term, not digital - we still use it so we can mentally use the exposure triangle, but a sensor uses gain. Think of it like having an audio source go into an amplifier - you can turn up the volume to make your signal louder (increasing exposure in post). High ISO also does not add noise. Underexposure adds noise.
Not a seasoned photography here but noticing my X-M1 with Fuji 15-45mm OIS will take pics at night down to 1/5 of a second very well but the 35mm f2 and 27mm f2.8 with supposedly better apertures for night struggle to eek out 1/50 or 1/40 of a second. In general, the 15-45mm kit lens delivers better night pictures with f3.5 due to image stabilization. So, cheaper camera with cheaper kit lens actually delivers over more expensive primes.
I like your instagram, so I decided take fuji anf pocket printer to my Japan trip. And when I thoght about how to take a night photo, I just found your video on youtube! Lucky me. Thanks! :)
Love how you explain your way of shooting without being too technical. I know what you are saying, but I can imagine new photog's getting into using manual settings would find your tutorials very easy to follow along with. I am stuck with an old Nikon P90. I had to sell my good gear to move a couple years back. Luckily it has a manual mode. (bridge cameras are better than nothing lol) I miss my old Nikon and Sony gear. I had a FujiFilm bridge camera once. I forget what kind. I was impressed with the shots it took for sure. Maybe when I can afford to get a new camera and lenses I will check out Fuji Film again. But thats a long way away unfortunately. I absolutely love the FujiFilm Presets in Lightroom though... I find that I use them more often since watching your vids now,. Keep up the amazing work and happy shooting!!!
THANK YOU FOR YOUR KIND SHARING OF KNOWLEDGE, It really helped; a lot of information, my only challenge was trying to follow up with the process in the camera settings screen, a little bit of more visuals showing the camera and not moving it so fast will help more, from my perspective.... thank you!
Such helpful tips, thank you! I have two questions (for anyone): what about using exposure bracketing if you have an IBIS camera body? And what white balance settings do you use at night, or do you leave it on auto? Sean Tucker talked in a recent video about how he always leaves his WB on 5500K day and night as it helps retain the colours our eyes see, rather than turning say a halogen lamp glow from orange to white. Thanks!
I have never been much of a spray and pray person. I feel like if I try harder to get a better individual picture it will make me a better photographer. Iso can be your friend at night, specially if you are going fort a film noir look.
@@legacy3340 felt sorry about your loss bro , btw would you recommend this or the sony alpha 6400 , beacause both are having a near about same price , please help me out
Good advice. As for people giving you grief about using burst mode, don’t pay attention. Unless they are shooting 100% manual and they aren’t using editing software to improve the shot in post it’s just hypocrisy. I say use the tech available to you.
Good video. Your lenses are basically the same as mine. I'm always surprised when people say the 16-55's f2.8 is decent for very low light. I bought the 33mm f1.4 for night time. I almost always underexpose at night (otherwise the ISO grain can get nasty) and shoot with DR400. (I almost always shoot at DR400 even in daytime, as it benefits RAW shadows recovery and I'm fine with it requiring a minimum ISO of 500 - on my X-T5). I do still struggle a bit with autofocusing at night, but I'll find the right settings one day!. Zone focusing is tricky at night.
@@erenjam I don't think I'm the best at squeezing low light results from my 16-55. I do the exposure triangle right, so think it's something I'm getting wrong with focusing. I'll work it out.
Hi Eren, thanks for this great and helpful video! Your night shots are so fantastic! I love the way You shoot and rework Your pictures in Lightroom! One question: how do You handle focus by night? Do You always use autofocus - despite the low light? I shoot with Fuji , too - X 100 F, which sometimes struggles a bit with autofocus , especially at low light...
Beware, the cyan red look will become passé sooner than you think. RUclips ads are doing it. Do you remember the cross process look in film? Developing Chrome film in C-41 chemistry, getting a negative without the orange layer that balanced contrast. Printing these in custom labs produced super high contrast with clear areas on the negs fogging areas around them, giving the prints a strange ghostly look. . You could quiet that down a bit fogging the print with a fast second enlarger exposure to the paper. That look is history.
What fuji camera and lens would you recommend for (fuji beginner)? I started with a6200, then brought A7m2, sold them and i stuck with my T70 analog camera for few years now. I wanna jump on fuji, but idk where to start and what to purchase..
When in the frame there are many bright highlights is better to underexpose right? Like you can just turn the exposure compensation dial at -1 or -2? And what about using HDR?
Eren videonu yeni gördüm ve global kalitede akıcı bir ingilizce ile bu videoyu yaptığın için seni tebrik ederim. Amatör fotoğrafçılık ve video çekmek için bir makina düşünüyorum xA7 veya xt200 önerir misin yoksa 10 bin lira fazla verip xs10 mu almalıyım? Şimdiden bilgiler için teşekkürler
Hi there. Thank you for your explanation. How do you deal with a slow autofocus? When you have to do a shot quick my autofocus ruins often my shot. What can i do about? im not good with manual focusing.
Good tips. I’ve been doing all these except for shooting wide open on the rare occasions I shoot at night because I usually use zone focusing on my day shoots and wide apertures don’t really work well with that method. I’ll try it. I guess you’re using auto focus?
How come in the day time they say to shoot around F8 to get everything in focus. But at night time to shoot at the maximum aperture like 1.4. I understand that you have to let more light in. But does that mean it won’t be as in focus?
Depth of field is more apparent in daylight … something you can afford to lose at night as your subject is more key … but make sure your subject is actually in focus! G’luck 😊
Settings: Iso max 3200 (6400 MAX MAX) Min SS 1/80 - 1/100 (Maybe 60/50th) Quickest Aperture\ Lowest f-stop possible (Less zoom more open lens) Use burst mode 10-15 shots Always shoot RAW for dynamic range. Lets you underexpose.
4:43 won't shooting wide open severely limit depth of field?. I would up iso to hit af4 or 5.4. So more is in focus (unless you want the blurry look). Am I missing something?
Hey Eren, great content! I want to get into the Fuji film system and get into photography. I currently use a GH5 for my video needs and client work but I have an itch to get into photography and plan to do some heavy travelling this year. What fujifilm camera would you recommend for myself that is below the x-t4? I was thinking between the x-s10, x-t3 or the x-t2 with more lens options.
The Xt4 probably as it should have most your video needs covered too. If you are only looking to shoot photos with it then the X-t2 or x-pro2 is more than good enough
Eren do you feel that an F2 prime is sufficient on a Fuji body that lacks IBIS since the primes also lack OIS? Or in such situation should we really opt for the 1.4 primes? I've had ok success with the 18-55 OIS lens on an x-t20 at night but do end up with a lot of shots blurry at 1/30. The primes will give me an extra 2 or 3 stops but losing OIS basically means I'm back at square one. Thoughts? I'm considering Sony since the a6600 has IBIS AND they have primes with Optical Stabilization. Seems like a dream night photography setup, not to mention the weather sealing which also beats my t20. Sony IQ is what holds me back still.
umm the 1.4 is better put I've taken loads of my favourite photos at night with the 50mm on the xpro2 which doesn't have IBIS. If you are in a well lit area at night you can get away with being handled at f2. Keep the min shutter speed at least 1/60 and use trust. A6600 also a great camera
Hiya, nice work and video, however and as a heads up, you said something along the lines of: that your shutter speed should be about double your focal length and this is not true, otherwise why would you buy an f1.4 or f2. Shutter speed, ISO and F stop work in conjunction with each other. The focal length doesn't affect this part otherwise. It would be a bit messy if you were shooting with a 180mm lens and the shutter speed of 400. In video I think, your shutter speed should be double your frame though. Just wanted to share this and didn't mean it to be troll like.
No prob at all, appreciate the comment 🙏🏼 So, for sure its not technically a rule, but its more of a rule of thumb, as your FL gets longer you need to shoot faster to capture pin sharp images, that said, I often shoot my 50mm at 1/60 so as you said its by no means a definitive rule to follow 😄
No tripod at night? Do you also walk across tightropes with no nets underneath you? I always use a tripod, because pictures are ALWAYS sharper with them. If I didn't use a tripod I would be tormented by the idea of how much better the picture I got would have been with a tripod.
Hey Peter, I think it really depends on the type of photography I’m doing. When shooting street at night I find a tripod is pretty limiting. Generally I’m not too concerned about everything being pin sharp with my street photos.
I'm curious when you set Fuji cameras to auto iso, do they under/over expose or is it just about right? Seems like I always have to compensate on my Canon cuz if it's a night shot it just shoots right up to +12k ISO like that's the baseline lol
Fuji tends to do the same, if you leave it to auto, in darker scenes it tries to make the overall scene too bright imo which leads to the high ISO. This is why I limit how high the ISO can go
Hi I have a question as a new fuji user. Do you think that it would make sense to use fuji X Raw software to export a receipie in TIFF 16bits and then work that TIFF further in a software ? The idea is to make sure to get the 100% original fuji film color... Because I try some software that enable to turn the RAF into a specific fuji fillm simulation but I compared the result with the real in camera film simulation and it turns out that it was not 100% identical.
Will be testing this out soon, it does make sense. I'm not sure how fast it'll be because from what I remember, the X Raw software uses the camera processor and not your laptops.
Hello Eren, I don't know if u know Turkish so I will try to explain in English as I can. I really want to make edits like your intros, vintage film looking video edits. I wonder if u can show us how u making that vintage looks.
Maybe try capturing the subjects when they are better lit, underezxposing makes it harder to pull clean details out of shadows so you'll have to place subjects where they are well lit too
Underexposing at night time is not only useful to recover details, it is one of the first things to do as it basically comes down to you telling your camera meter "It's dark but it's normal, it's night time" otherwise, your camera will try to expose as for daylight and ISO will be too high and shutter speeds too low (assuming you are shooting in aperture priority)
And you can recover more details from underexposure image.
Yup, I never understood the need for exposure compensation until I shot some pictures at night. Lights will be blown out and there will be camera movement in the pictures when you shoot without it.
@@Herobox-ju4zd How much underexposing? Is -1.3 or -1.0 a rule of thumb or it really depends on the situation?
@@micheleg.2244 Depends on the situation. I took a lot of pictures at a night market in Taipei a while back; lots of neon and other lights on the food stalls in an otherwise very dark environment. I shot my Tamron 20-40mm mostly at f2.8 auto ISO limited at max 6400 and shutter locked at 1/60th minimum. Exposure compensation sweet spot varied between -2.0 an -3.0. I just make sure the artificial lights don't look totally blown out in the viewerfinder.
Good stuff Eren. I am in complete agreement with burst mode. Especially at night. It’s just another useful tool we’re blessed with in digital photography so why not take advantage. Always helps nail that low light shot.
Huge thanks Phil! Love that burst mode!
A very useful tip to use burst mode in night photography. Especially when you don't have stabilization in your body. Thank you so much!
Thank you Dan!
You got many things into one video which took me long time to learn when I just started photography... *You made an excellent video!*
Thank you!
Just to clarify, increasing ISO does not increase your sensor's sensitivity to light. It sounds counter-intuitive, but ISO is a film term, not digital - we still use it so we can mentally use the exposure triangle, but a sensor uses gain. Think of it like having an audio source go into an amplifier - you can turn up the volume to make your signal louder (increasing exposure in post). High ISO also does not add noise. Underexposure adds noise.
3:57 Heart stopped for a sec there 😅
Thanks for those advices, just acquired a XS20
Not a seasoned photography here but noticing my X-M1 with Fuji 15-45mm OIS will take pics at night down to 1/5 of a second very well but the 35mm f2 and 27mm f2.8 with supposedly better apertures for night struggle to eek out 1/50 or 1/40 of a second. In general, the 15-45mm kit lens delivers better night pictures with f3.5 due to image stabilization. So, cheaper camera with cheaper kit lens actually delivers over more expensive primes.
Yep, makes sense, doesn’t matter how sharp the lens is if its moving while taking the shot
I like your instagram, so I decided take fuji anf pocket printer to my Japan trip. And when I thoght about how to take a night photo, I just found your video on youtube! Lucky me. Thanks! :)
Thank you!
Love how you explain your way of shooting without being too technical. I know what you are saying, but I can imagine new photog's getting into using manual settings would find your tutorials very easy to follow along with.
I am stuck with an old Nikon P90. I had to sell my good gear to move a couple years back. Luckily it has a manual mode. (bridge cameras are better than nothing lol) I miss my old Nikon and Sony gear. I had a FujiFilm bridge camera once. I forget what kind. I was impressed with the shots it took for sure. Maybe when I can afford to get a new camera and lenses I will check out Fuji Film again. But thats a long way away unfortunately. I absolutely love the FujiFilm Presets in Lightroom though... I find that I use them more often since watching your vids now,.
Keep up the amazing work and happy shooting!!!
Huge thanks Brian! Love the versatility of a bridge :D Happy shooting dude!
THANK YOU FOR YOUR KIND SHARING OF KNOWLEDGE, It really helped; a lot of information, my only challenge was trying to follow up with the process in the camera settings screen, a little bit of more visuals showing the camera and not moving it so fast will help more, from my perspective.... thank you!
Really appreciate the support 🙏🏼 I have a specific episode on camera settings at night where I get into more detail on how I set before heading out
Loved your tips! Thanks.
Such helpful tips, thank you! I have two questions (for anyone): what about using exposure bracketing if you have an IBIS camera body? And what white balance settings do you use at night, or do you leave it on auto? Sean Tucker talked in a recent video about how he always leaves his WB on 5500K day and night as it helps retain the colours our eyes see, rather than turning say a halogen lamp glow from orange to white. Thanks!
I have never been much of a spray and pray person. I feel like if I try harder to get a better individual picture it will make me a better photographer. Iso can be your friend at night, specially if you are going fort a film noir look.
Ur shots are gorgeous, thank you so much for this excellent video!!!
Thank you 🙏🏼🙏🏼
This is a big help. I literally just got a xt30ii yesterday. Planning to go out in town at midnight to test out these tips
how much do you like the xt30 ii at night ? is it worth buying, i am planning for sony 6400 and xt30 ii
@@chotau2ber606yeah its worth it. It got stolen last november. Pretty sad about that
@@legacy3340 felt sorry about your loss bro , btw would you recommend this or the sony alpha 6400 , beacause both are having a near about same price , please help me out
Very good video I agree with burst mode for Street photography Things happen so quickly and why not use what you have
Thanks Andy!
Good advice. As for people giving you grief about using burst mode, don’t pay attention. Unless they are shooting 100% manual and they aren’t using editing software to improve the shot in post it’s just hypocrisy. I say use the tech available to you.
100%
Great tips and video!
thank you!
Great Video as always… Thank you for sharing these tips 👍
thank you!
Good video. Your lenses are basically the same as mine. I'm always surprised when people say the 16-55's f2.8 is decent for very low light. I bought the 33mm f1.4 for night time.
I almost always underexpose at night (otherwise the ISO grain can get nasty) and shoot with DR400. (I almost always shoot at DR400 even in daytime, as it benefits RAW shadows recovery and I'm fine with it requiring a minimum ISO of 500 - on my X-T5).
I do still struggle a bit with autofocusing at night, but I'll find the right settings one day!. Zone focusing is tricky at night.
Thank you! The 33 is the much better option but you can still get good results with the 16-55
@@erenjam I don't think I'm the best at squeezing low light results from my 16-55. I do the exposure triangle right, so think it's something I'm getting wrong with focusing. I'll work it out.
Nice tips! I never use a tripod either. I thought I was the only one.
Thanks. Very sensible stuff, clearly presented.
Thanks Gaston!
Thank you for your tips. Very cool videos for try this
Thank you!
I’ve been struggling with low light on my x-t20 i will try your advice, thanks
Awesome content. I will watch many times cos I know these things but want muscle memory.
Amazing advices hocam, thanks 🙏
Thank you! 🇹🇷🙏🏼
Yo, I'm a big fan of your work Eren. Just wanna ask what is the wrist strap you used on 00:17. More tips and reviews to come bro. Thanks!
Thank you! its a DSPTCH strap
Great photos!!! Just starting with an oldish X-T3. I know it's not much, but you got a new subscriber. Great work 👍
what lens are you using, if I may ask?
I really love your colors, can we have a video guide how to edit photos the way you do?
Thank you! Recently made a colour grading episode where I talk about my editing process 👨🏻💻
Some great looking photos there, Eren. Thanks for the tips! Cheers 😇
Thank you!
Great practical tips for this genre, well-explained minus extraneous chatter.
Nice one Eren!
Thanks Kenan 🙏🏼
Great video man, thanks for the info & tips!
Thank you!
What is the film simulation are you using ? Or the color profile on FUJIFILM?😃
I love your cat picture from the istanbul video!
🐈
Great advice as usual, keep it up!
Thanks Jason!
Cracking video, learned a lot about my xt3. Thanks for sharing..:>
Well explained. Thank you
Thanks Angela!
FYI…even with a hard stop lower shutter speed, if max ISO is reached, shutter speed will drop below the hard stop. something has to give!
true!
Hi Eren, thanks for this great and helpful video! Your night shots are so fantastic! I love the way You shoot and rework Your pictures in Lightroom! One question: how do You handle focus by night? Do You always use autofocus - despite the low light? I shoot with Fuji , too - X 100 F, which sometimes struggles a bit with autofocus , especially at low light...
Yh I mostly use AF at night and only switch if its having a hard time locking on. The X100F AF isn't as good as the XT bodies especially in low light
What focus mode is quite reliable when shooting at night? Thanks for this vid btw! Great tips!
Usually use zone focusing with single AF at Night. Continuous AF can be unreliable at night
Beware, the cyan red look will become passé sooner than you think. RUclips ads are doing it. Do you remember the cross process look in film? Developing Chrome film in C-41 chemistry, getting a negative without the orange layer that balanced contrast. Printing these in custom labs produced super high contrast with clear areas on the negs fogging areas around them, giving the prints a strange ghostly look. . You could quiet that down a bit fogging the print with a fast second enlarger exposure to the paper. That look is history.
Any recommendations about metring mode?😊
What fuji camera and lens would you recommend for (fuji beginner)? I started with a6200, then brought A7m2, sold them and i stuck with my T70 analog camera for few years now. I wanna jump on fuji, but idk where to start and what to purchase..
Great vid Eren! Do you shoot in Aperture priority mode with these settings? Cheers
Thanks Michael! Yeah almost always in A mode
Awesome tips, thanks for sharing with us! I will definitely try to shoot burst mode going forwards.
Thanks Bastien 🙏🏼
Thanks Bastien 🙏🏼
Nice Job…Thankyou!
Thanks David!
Thanks for these tips. Nice video. 👍👍
Thank you 🙏🏼
When in the frame there are many bright highlights is better to underexpose right? Like you can just turn the exposure compensation dial at -1 or -2? And what about using HDR?
Eren videonu yeni gördüm ve global kalitede akıcı bir ingilizce ile bu videoyu yaptığın için seni tebrik ederim.
Amatör fotoğrafçılık ve video çekmek için bir makina düşünüyorum xA7 veya xt200 önerir misin yoksa 10 bin lira fazla verip xs10 mu almalıyım? Şimdiden bilgiler için teşekkürler
Hi there. Thank you for your explanation. How do you deal with a slow autofocus? When you have to do a shot quick my autofocus ruins often my shot. What can i do about? im not good with manual focusing.
hi, erem! great video! how do you use the exposure compensation dial? in 0 or negative?
most use it to correctly expose for the lights at night, usually into the negative
Good tips. I’ve been doing all these except for shooting wide open on the rare occasions I shoot at night because I usually use zone focusing on my day shoots and wide apertures don’t really work well with that method. I’ll try it. I guess you’re using auto focus?
Thank you! Yh I use AF at night , the newer fujifilm cameras are pretty reliable with AF at night
Thanks for the great tutorial. What is metering mode you use for night photograhy?
I switch between multi and spot at night
Thanks a lot !
Nice vid man!!...... I'm about to buy my first camera, which one you think it's better, the Sony a6000 or canon t2i (550D)?
Thank you! I've never used a Canon so it's hard to say but the Sony a6000 was also my first camera.
@@erenjam thank you for replying, so the a6000 still a good choice for street and some portrait?
thanks for the tips. i don’t understand the “underexpose” though. how do you under expose when you shoot?
easiest way is to use the exposure compensation dial
Awesome tips dude 👌
Thank you bro
Thanks for tips
thank you!
How come in the day time they say to shoot around F8 to get everything in focus.
But at night time to shoot at the maximum aperture like 1.4.
I understand that you have to let more light in. But does that mean it won’t be as in focus?
Depth of field is more apparent in daylight … something you can afford to lose at night as your subject is more key … but make sure your subject is actually in focus! G’luck 😊
Do you have a video on how you get some of those awesome colours in your night photos??
🙏🏼 I have a couple editing episodes on here
Settings:
Iso max 3200 (6400 MAX MAX)
Min SS 1/80 - 1/100 (Maybe 60/50th)
Quickest Aperture\ Lowest f-stop possible (Less zoom more open lens)
Use burst mode 10-15 shots
Always shoot RAW for dynamic range. Lets you underexpose.
4:43 won't shooting wide open severely limit depth of field?. I would up iso to hit af4 or 5.4. So more is in focus (unless you want the blurry look). Am I missing something?
Do you mind sharing your film simulation recipe?
Hey Eren, great content! I want to get into the Fuji film system and get into photography. I currently use a GH5 for my video needs and client work but I have an itch to get into photography and plan to do some heavy travelling this year. What fujifilm camera would you recommend for myself that is below the x-t4? I was thinking between the x-s10, x-t3 or the x-t2 with more lens options.
The Xt4 probably as it should have most your video needs covered too. If you are only looking to shoot photos with it then the X-t2 or x-pro2 is more than good enough
@@erenjam thanks! I already have a dedicated video camera (GH5), wanted a cheaper hybrid camera (mainly stills).
Thanks for the advice! What about photometry? Do you stay on Multi ?
wish we had an expose for highlights mode
hopefully Fujifilm bring us this feature, really nice on the Ricoh
yh multi most of the time
Thanks. I’m new to cameras and it’s all starting to come together.
🙏🏼 glad this helped! Good luck on your journey
Eren do you feel that an F2 prime is sufficient on a Fuji body that lacks IBIS since the primes also lack OIS? Or in such situation should we really opt for the 1.4 primes?
I've had ok success with the 18-55 OIS lens on an x-t20 at night but do end up with a lot of shots blurry at 1/30. The primes will give me an extra 2 or 3 stops but losing OIS basically means I'm back at square one. Thoughts?
I'm considering Sony since the a6600 has IBIS AND they have primes with Optical Stabilization. Seems like a dream night photography setup, not to mention the weather sealing which also beats my t20. Sony IQ is what holds me back still.
umm the 1.4 is better put I've taken loads of my favourite photos at night with the 50mm on the xpro2 which doesn't have IBIS. If you are in a well lit area at night you can get away with being handled at f2. Keep the min shutter speed at least 1/60 and use trust.
A6600 also a great camera
@@erenjam thanks!
I wouldn't worry about high ISO these days. I use AI denoise software to remove it.
Gj Eren
Thank you!
Hiya, nice work and video, however and as a heads up, you said something along the lines of: that your shutter speed should be about double your focal length and this is not true, otherwise why would you buy an f1.4 or f2. Shutter speed, ISO and F stop work in conjunction with each other. The focal length doesn't affect this part otherwise. It would be a bit messy if you were shooting with a 180mm lens and the shutter speed of 400.
In video I think, your shutter speed should be double your frame though.
Just wanted to share this and didn't mean it to be troll like.
No prob at all, appreciate the comment 🙏🏼 So, for sure its not technically a rule, but its more of a rule of thumb, as your FL gets longer you need to shoot faster to capture pin sharp images, that said, I often shoot my 50mm at 1/60 so as you said its by no means a definitive rule to follow 😄
Thanks
Dear Eren , sevgili Eren, the minimum ss is no more than a suggestion which goes down to 1/15 ss 😊
Solid tips
Thank you!
No tripod at night? Do you also walk across tightropes with no nets underneath you? I always use a tripod, because pictures are ALWAYS sharper with them. If I didn't use a tripod I would be tormented by the idea of how much better the picture I got would have been with a tripod.
Hey Peter, I think it really depends on the type of photography I’m doing. When shooting street at night I find a tripod is pretty limiting. Generally I’m not too concerned about everything being pin sharp with my street photos.
I'm curious when you set Fuji cameras to auto iso, do they under/over expose or is it just about right? Seems like I always have to compensate on my Canon cuz if it's a night shot it just shoots right up to +12k ISO like that's the baseline lol
Fuji tends to do the same, if you leave it to auto, in darker scenes it tries to make the overall scene too bright imo which leads to the high ISO. This is why I limit how high the ISO can go
Great
Hi I have a question as a new fuji user. Do you think that it would make sense to use fuji X Raw software to export a receipie in TIFF 16bits and then work that TIFF further in a software ? The idea is to make sure to get the 100% original fuji film color... Because I try some software that enable to turn the RAF into a specific fuji fillm simulation but I compared the result with the real in camera film simulation and it turns out that it was not 100% identical.
Will be testing this out soon, it does make sense. I'm not sure how fast it'll be because from what I remember, the X Raw software uses the camera processor and not your laptops.
@@erenjam I tried and it works fine.
Thanks to IBIS in X-T4 one can slow down to 1/8 sec. handheld.
Awesome. Such a useful feature
@@erenjam indeed, it's incredible.
Lütfen türkçe altyazı ekleyin biz de faydalanalım ya. İngilizcem yetmiyor
Thanks!
Crazy crazy imagery dude
Huge thanks!
🙏🏼
Nice
Hello Eren, I don't know if u know Turkish so I will try to explain in English as I can. I really want to make edits like your intros, vintage film looking video edits. I wonder if u can show us how u making that vintage looks.
Slm Furkan, I will be making an episode on how I make my videos very soon :) 🙏🏼
@@erenjam I'm looking forward to see thanks 🙏🏼
What White Balance setting do you use at night time ?
I shoot raw so don’t worry about the White Balance when shooting at night
And mode?
Ig filter effect plss
in the works!
There is no way your surname is Yellow Flower
You could shoot waaaaaaay lower ISO if you would simply use a tripod. Very few of your shots are SHARP.
But while underexposing the face of people get smudgy...how to get over this
Maybe try capturing the subjects when they are better lit, underezxposing makes it harder to pull clean details out of shadows so you'll have to place subjects where they are well lit too