Thanks , man you are the only one showing this . I have my 07 Streetglide fuel assembly out of the tank...i felt it pivot coming out but wasn't certain and with plastic parts you don't get a second chance
Thank you, very much, for taking the time to create this video. Have read the service tech manual on this procedure, but pictures / videos are "sometimes worth a thousand words".
Glad you have the service manual but I agree, it leaves a lot of information out. There were no good vids that I could find when I made this video. Glad it helped ya out!
Definitely right about manuals, videos have always served me well. Thank you so much for the video without it I would have surely broke something. Look forward to any other videos you will be making.
Nice video mate....I have just done this on my 2003 RKC ...but to any one preparing to do this replace your "Fuel Pump Strainer" as well, you see it hanging there on the end of the pump.Just thought i would mention this as I watched all the videos to prepare myself also,cause I didn't know nothing before I started....but no one seems to mention the strainer.and it is just as important as the other parts that need replacing....once again mate ,very informative video.
Thank you, much appreciated . Your video broke it down and showed the areas that I just could not find else where on removing the fuel system and where to push down to release the arm.
This is best video on those quick disconnect fuel line assembly, on how to replace also. Some models the quick disconnect will unscrew from tank , and not have fuel line attached. Your quick disconnect has fuel line attached and will not unscrew from tank without twisting fuel line. Fuel line must be removed to unscrew quick disconnect. This video does good job showing how to replace !
Thanks for taking the time to video this. I just started to have a problem my 2002 Road King. I'm not hearing the fuel pump prime when I turned the ignition switch. The bike did start up, idled funny, drove 50 ft. and it died on me, started back up drove it around the street put it up for now and checking out RUclips for videos on this. My bike has 21,000 miles. I'm looking forward to replacing the Cam tensioners as well.
I just finished doing the hydraulic tensioner conversion along with HV oil pump. IT'S A BIG JOB BUT VERY REWARDING! Make sure you change the inner cam bearings when doing the job. I also went ahead & replaced the stock roller lifters with S&S rollers & HIGHLY recommend doing that also.
I replaced the fuel pump relay switch, cost me 8 dollars, and the fob battery as well since it was over 3 years old. Working great now. I've been adding some Seafoam to the gas and only use premium gas. It does make a difference and runs great. Ride on brother.
Good video. Very well done. I am going to do the same procedure to my 05 Fatboy this weekend. Thank you for a well done video. It will make my job way easier.
Thanks for the really helpful video. Wouldn't have tried it without your video. My son-in-law and I started at 8:00 and finished 10:30 this morning. With your video, we got the job done. We Had to do a few extra things, but common sense took care of that.Thanks.
Got a tip for you.. a piece of plastic tubing.. about 17 inches an inch in diameter.. placed in from top of tank insert new hose in the tank while feeding into the tube.. goes really fast .. then just remove the tubing :)
Thanks for the informative video, I have an 03 Heritage Softail Springer, I've been having issues with it bogging out on me sometimes off my throttle but not all the time. Then sometimes when I'm sitting idle at a light or coming to a stop it will die on me..... any suggestions? I replaced the regulator, and the fuel filter but still having some issues.
very informative. One of these days I need to get in there and check out my float. on my 14 FXSBSE once my low fuel light comes on and the last bar is flashing I can only get about 3.5 gallons in on a five gallon tank. I know, Harley right lol.
Sounds like a bent float bar. Not much more than coat hanger wire & if someone was forcing the assembly out, it could have bent upward. Just a guess. HTH 03
I think I would have used some anti seize on the treads of that check valve; as well as some lubricant on the o ring as well. I would also like to know how many miles on this bike when this service/repair was done on it.
Great idle for a injected bike I’m starting this job at present after a 10 day ride hard starting at cold was the first thing with a strong smell of fuel,I’ll clean injectors and replace the fuel filter see what that gives me. Great video cheers
If you mean the hose connected to the fuel disconnect check valve, that was already installed onto the new check valve when I bought it from HD. Different model bikes & years have different part #s. Do a HD.com parts lookup for yours. Thanks for watching!
I see your point but I talked to my local dealers best mechanic before I did the job. He told me the dealership almost never needs to replace electric fuel pumps. If I need to change the fuel pump in the future, it's easy peasy now. To date, 1/17/24, with my 22 year old bike & I'm still on the OEM electric fuel pump. Not bad HD!
What is the proper torque for the 10 top plate cover? I stripped the one at 11:00 and rethreaded it with a tap, hopefully it will stay tight, I also used some teflon tape/gas rated just to add a little bite to the threads on the stripped screw. I have not been able to find the recommended torque for these screws anywhere.
I loved this video and learned a lot. I own the same bike and within the next few weeks am going to remove the heads to replace leaking valve seals. I will remove the tank for this procedure and will replace my fuel filter while I have the tank off. Thank you for doing this, it will help me a lot as I get into the job. Keith
Man! I sure wish you would make a video of the valve job! My 103 is pinging a little bit when I really get on it and I think I will be doing the same thing in the future. GL with the wrenching!
Worked out just fine, the hardest part was figuring out what to push to "unhinge" the fuel pump. Also had to unscrew the float (one phillips screw) to enable the assembly to pull out of the access hole.
Nothing better than the feeling of knowing you can wrench on your own bike! Good deal bro! Me, next I'm looking to upgrade my stock spring loaded cam tensioner & oil pump to a cool hydraulic unit with a HV oil pump.
THanks man, i needed this help. I have to do one other step. My tank liner has started flaking, so i gotta clean and reline it. There is some debate about the need for tank liner apparently.
@@johnnylopez6825 No, I did not. I cleaned all the flaking areas really well, (pressure washed), and have had no more problems. I try to keep my tank full when it sits for a minute without being ridden.
I'm not a certified mechanic therefore I don't provide specifics. All torque values can be found in the factory service manual specific to your make and model. 03
@@dumbcat I don't remember for sure but I think they were 3/8" stainless steel. I have bought crimp clamps from advanced auto before but I'm guessing that many auto parts stores carry them or will order them.
@@2003Harleyguy thanks. after much searching this is what i found... "OEM part #10222 pinch clamp. May say '8mm' on package. Is just over 11mm ID before crimping." i ordered a couple. haven't gotten them yet. guess we'll see. update: yes they worked perfectly
There were no videos showing this process when I posted this video years ago. So that was the intent, to demystify the process. Glad it helped! Be sure to watch my other videos! Thanks for watching & commenting!
The filter that carries under the fuel pump had 2 cracks. Can I paste them with some contact glue until the piece arrives? Sorry if you do not understand my English very well.
I do not take any short cuts with fuel related parts or service. If it's broke, I follow the HD service manual instructions & repair it with OEM parts or equivalent. HTH
@@2003Harleyguy I understand you, but for a fucking filter I will not stop riding my bike. If the pump is burned before the replacement arrives, I will change everything. but I'll keep rolling. Thanks mate for the video.
a lot of times it's not your fuel pump it's the hoses that developed a small pin hole or even a crack in them reducing your pressure, the reason is all the ethanol in the gas,
I always use stock parts or their equivalent replacement. Not sure how the gasoline/alcohol fuel sold these days would affect the rubber fuel line over time. My guess is it would degrade very quickly and create a huge mess in your tank. As for the clamps, I have seen way too many radiator type clamps break to use them. The crimp clamps with no moving parts, are definitely the way to go. HTH, 03
Thanks for posting that video series! I will be doing the same job with my 2002 RK Classic very soon. Question: Did you initially drain the tank a different way before using the hose and can method?
No. I had roughly 3/4 of a tank when I started. That's why I used a large gas can. You're better off running the tank almost dry if possible. My bike died suddenly, I had to do what I had to do. GL
Thanks for your reply. I'm noticing reduced power, like what it would feel if you were "flooding the carb" when throttling up near max. As I reduce throttle it's like the power jumps back. Weird on an FI bike. No get up and go on hills under load, and just RPM jump when downshifting to gain back reducing power to pass, but no extra pwr, etc. Only thing I can come up with is the pressure regulator issue you talk about. Just bought the bike used last month and I understand it was stored for years.
If I could offer some free advise, I would STRONGLY suggest that you buy a genuine HD service manual for your bike if you don't already have one. Then start an account on HDForums dot com. Go to the tech advice section and post your problems there. TONS of knowledge there. BUT... I will say with your year of bike, you need to THOROUGHLY check the leads to the fuel injectors because harley used the wrong wire and it breaks inside the plastic shielding over time. It causes a gap in the wire & it does exactly what you're describing. You may need to lift your tank up to access along with removing your air cleaner assembly. Start your engine & wiggle the wiring while the bike is running. If the idle changes while wiggling, you know the source of your problems. GL.
Thanks, I'll have to check that out. The bike only had 17k miles on it when I bought it this summer. The circumstantial evidence is fuel, but it's now acting like it has a short or broken spark plug wire. I was going to start replacing everything electrical and fuel, but then I paused. This has to be something simple, like a broken wire. Have a trip planned for Friday to ride 1000 miles. This showed up this week. Great timing.
Oh and BTW, the symptoms of less power, etc was a leaky intake. Got full power back, then it had major issues (12v wire shielding rubbed off & shorted on frame). After that was fixed this week, now the bike is having a lean misfire, bad at times, nothing other times. Trying to figure out if it's another wire or spark plug wire, etc.
Was that a USAF shirt? 20yr Wire Dawg here. Quick question. You mentioned losing fuel pressure on top end in Vid 1. Did that also make your bike hard to start and idle rough, having to play with throttle to keep it running? It runs but i have to tease it to keep mine running. 2005 Heritage Classic here. Already Replaced the Crankshaft Position Sendor and thought i would get lucky. Thanks. Joe
I'm no mechanic but from some of the things I've been told to check out other than the fuel filter & regulator housing are; Swollen fuel line (ID) from check valve to fuel rail (common problem). One or both broken & still arcing wires (do wiggle test) going to fuel injectors (common problem). Split fuel line going from fuel reg housing to check valve (common problem). Bad fuel pump. Clogged fuel inlet filter on fuel pump. Cam chain tensioners (metal to metal). Clogged/leaky fuel injectors. Thanks for your service! Hope this helps.
Took out the fuel assembly and what did i find. The Regulator housing ear had busted and the o-ring was pooching out....$250 for parts at HD- $25 military discount +18 tax=$ 244.32. Online i had parts at $120 at Jpcycles but without new screws and gasket....I'm about to go install. WIll give update.
@@Joegest1 I like Dennis Kirk for parts too. Most always have everything from many manufacturers. I would use new seal screws & gasket... Fuel goes boom...
Do you know if there is a way to check the old regulator and housing to see if they are still any good. I replaced mine but will save the old for emergency if I can check them
I'm not a certified mechanic, just a shade tree mechanic so I can't give any advice on repairs, only my opinion on what I would do. I would check the "fingers" on the housing for cracks. If the regulator is pushing out of the housing there will be a psi bleed off. But at $14 bucks do you really want to put an old plastic part back into the tank? Glad the vid helped you. Regards
Was talking more about the $45 pressure regulator itself that you and others don't usually change out. Thought you might have checked on it when you were doing the research for your project. I changed mine while I was in there and figured if I could test it and it was fine, I would save it for an emergency. Guess I'll check with a "certified mechanic" Anyway thanks for the video
So I wonder if your the diy type of guy that rebuilds his efi system while still on your car. Leading to parts dropping down in your intake. Or in this case dropping tools or parts in your tank or even worse, dropping something on your tank. Hats off to ya too, that years cvo paint job is one of my all time favorites. But, why not just pull the tank? Three bolts once the dash is off, and besides the obvious reasons above, youll have to disconnect the cross over tube. Wow, theres how you drain the tank. Use a line clamp in the middle of the tube, pull either end, and push on a 3 ft. piece of hose, letting it drain into an approved gas can. Plus, we all know how bad it hurts your back leaning over the tank from the side to do anything...Then you might say, well the manual doesnt do this for this job. Nope sure doesnt, and rately do I sway from a shop manual, BUT, what happens to these bikes just as often as a leak at the pump is broken wires on top of the injectors, or moreover, leaving the backbone wire traugh. Personally, I like to inspect, check for continuity, and usually clean the rocker covers, inspect intake at both ends, and just give a once over in this whole area. Then, with your tank on the table in front of you on soft mats, continue with your fuel sending assembly removal and repair...Sure is great piece of mind when you know theres no other underlying issue, or even the chance one is about to happen, chaffed wire...Nice vid, nicer bike, hope this helps, good day....
Great video. Thanks!. The one question I had was about the sealing nuts. Did you thing it was worth it? I'm kind of new to Harley's and frankly get annoyed when I see the price of some of their parts.
Harley or not, once you've had a fuel tank between your legs catch fire at 60 mph, and blow fire up your face, you will think the sealing nuts & gasket are a bargain! Besides, they really weren't expensive! #1 FIRE RISK! #2 Harley parts are usually fairly priced IMHO. I think the sealing screws were like 6 bucks. #3 I don't like doing jobs twice. #4 Do you really want water flooding into your tank during a sudden downpour of rain or while washing the bike? Worth doing, worth doing right. Good luck.
Thanks for the video , I'm just about to go through this myself. I do have a shop manual but the video helps simplify the process. What I'm having and issue with is a miss at low rpms and a rough idle. I sprayed the fuel line at the disconnect on the EFI port and the engine cuts out. So I'm thinking a bad o-ring sucking air. I might as well check it all while I'm there. Thanks bro...
Mark siegfried Be sure to check the electric wires going to the fuel injectors for breaks (wiggle test while running) & fuel line going to the fuel rail. GL
I believe that its the oring at the fuel port on the quick disconnect. I sprayed throttle body cleaner on it and the bike cut out. I tried wiggling the injector leads the best I could and nothing happened. It's fn hard to see anything without removing the tank .
My thoughts are , being that there's only 9000 miles on it and its an 06 Road King that it has some dry rotted or a crack hose somewhere. I'm hoping its just the oring.
I replaced the plug wires . That took out a lot of the misfire but it's still sputtering and surging at low rpms. I wasn't getting that Harley idle that I love such. I found the breather hosed to the air box are dry rotted and cracked. Got new ones today . I'm hoping thats it. Also found the one muffler loose. I bought this bike with 8800 miles off of an old man. so it's been sitting for 12 years.
Great stuff guy! really good video sir. Just wondering if your bike came with the 103cc? I have original 88cc on my heritage. I got the gear upgrade 510G from S&S, did away with tensioner issue all together. I know now what to look for in my tank thank to your video. Great job:)
No, individual assemblies from HD. The fuel filter came with a hose, filter, o-ring & clamps. The check valve came with a hose already attached to the check valve. Thanks for commenting.
You know if someone made a Harley SS fuel strainer for the bottom of the fuel pump instead of the cheapass nylon one's I just found in a million pieces in the bottom of my tank, you could probably sell a thousands of them.
You're probably right! The problem is there's only a handful of us Harley owners who have ever seen the inside of the tank and the strainer. The Steelers love these nylon strainers because they get to charge a bunch to replace and clean up the mess of them deteriorating. My 03 has a brass one I believe so I'm not worried about that one. Here's the problem as I see it, most HD owner's anymore are afraid to change a tail light bulb on their bike much less tear into the tank. God forbid they would EVER dirty their hands with an oil/filter change! Congrats to you for being grizzly enough to tear into this job! Be sure to subscribe and check out some of my other videos like totally rebuilding my brake calipers and doing oil changes without puking oil down the front of your bike. Good luck, 03
I'm not a certified mechanic or technician. I can't give any advice on repairs. HDF dot com (Harley Davidson Forum) Technical forum might be a good place to search online for a solution from certified mechanics. This video should be viewed for entertainment purposes only and nothing else. Good luck.
Just out of curiosity what prompted this maintenance? I've been having some problems with my 06 FLHRSI cutting out when I'm getting on the gas and have since changed out the filter. Still getting the same problem though. I'm wondering if the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and Fuel Check Valve replacement may help.
What numbskull did Harley employ to design this thing and its location? "Let's immerses a $hxxload of plastic and wiring in the gas tank in such a manner that only gynecologists can access and work on it, THEN charge an arm and a leg for parts!!" The gasket is a treat,.....fixing a problem that does not exist by inserting thick metal washer/inserts where screws pass through so it will leak! THEN use crimp clamps that cannot be installed or released without the correct tool. Boy...they got us there!
You should see what I had to go through to install the new hydraulic cam chain tensioners to replace the spring loaded tensioners, in an upcoming video. Sadly, "Simple and rugged" is a long forgotten thing of the past... Thanks for watching the video, 03
@@2003Harleyguy You video helped A LOT! Thank you. I ask myself, why did Harley feel the need to put a pig in a dress and polish turds? Fuel injection? Why: To gain 2 mpg? To satisfy Kommielifornia regs? To gain "performance"...🤣 (Erik Buell and the V-Rod did that and look how well that went). It was simply, a reliable tractor engine, tool rolls carried all you needed for the design, it was maintainable and ran on any gas. Car-bra-tooters delivered gas/air prehistorically and an S&S B or E Pumper, was simplicity itself, based on the old Linkhert "tube" carb! EFI is not "progress" - it just "reads right" in the press. True tale: I once rode with a group, back in the mid '80's, one of whom had a slipping Shovel clutch. We were camping in the boonies. A plastic sandwich box held the drained primary oil, hex key removed the outer primary, combo wrench, the basket to access clutch plates, a hash brownie disposable tray held the JD, a wire wool scrub pad to clean the glaze off the plates and we poured the oil back through the Derby Cover, whilst three guys leaned the bike over to the right.... cover back inplace - job done! It was reassembled, by the time the brownies kicked in and it got the guy home 2 days later. Here I am at 68, my '06 Rat Softail is complicated and so now I appreciate "simple" more as I age and ride. Oh for my '65 Pan!!! (Although the mousetrap was a bitch till I "got it" into my head how to adjust it, then I was everybody's hero!!) Thanks to you I am still sane!
![Lil Uzi Vert - We Good [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DrSfBULAsek/mqdefault.jpg)
I also own the 2003 Road King CVO. You are the only one that has done videos on my exact bike which makes things so much easier. Thank You
Thanks , man you are the only one showing this . I have my 07 Streetglide fuel assembly out of the tank...i felt it pivot coming out but wasn't certain and with plastic parts you don't get a second chance
I woke up this morning to a fuel check valve leak. Did some research and your video is going to be a big help when I tackle this project
Thank you, very much, for taking the time to create this video. Have read the service tech manual on this procedure, but pictures / videos are "sometimes worth a thousand words".
Glad you have the service manual but I agree, it leaves a lot of information out. There were no good vids that I could find when I made this video. Glad it helped ya out!
Definitely right about manuals, videos have always served me well. Thank you so much for the video without it I would have surely broke something. Look forward to any other videos you will be making.
Nice video mate....I have just done this on my 2003 RKC ...but to any one preparing to do this replace your "Fuel Pump Strainer" as well, you see it hanging there on the end of the pump.Just thought i would mention this as I watched all the videos to prepare myself also,cause I didn't know nothing before I started....but no one seems to mention the strainer.and it is just as important as the other parts that need replacing....once again mate ,very informative video.
Thank you, much appreciated . Your video broke it down and showed the areas that I just could not find else where on removing the fuel system and where to push down to release the arm.
This is best video on those quick disconnect fuel line assembly, on how to replace also.
Some models the quick disconnect will unscrew from tank , and not have fuel line attached.
Your quick disconnect has fuel line attached and will not unscrew from tank without twisting fuel line. Fuel line must be removed to unscrew quick disconnect. This video does good job showing how to replace !
G'day from Australia - Thanks for taking the time to document this procedure. Job well done!
Thanks for taking the time to video this. I just started to have a problem my 2002 Road King. I'm not hearing the fuel pump prime when I turned the ignition switch. The bike did start up, idled funny, drove 50 ft. and it died on me, started back up drove it around the street put it up for now and checking out RUclips for videos on this. My bike has 21,000 miles. I'm looking forward to replacing the Cam tensioners as well.
I just finished doing the hydraulic tensioner conversion along with HV oil pump. IT'S A BIG JOB BUT VERY REWARDING! Make sure you change the inner cam bearings when doing the job. I also went ahead & replaced the stock roller lifters with S&S rollers & HIGHLY recommend doing that also.
PS Harley techs that I know tell me the fuel pumps almost never go bad but there's always the chance.
I replaced the fuel pump relay switch, cost me 8 dollars, and the fob battery as well since it was over 3 years old. Working great now. I've been adding some Seafoam to the gas and only use premium gas. It does make a difference and runs great. Ride on brother.
@@theroadking547 Good job! Thanks for sharing the info with us! Thanks again for watching!
Same problem i ran into Friday night. Started trying to turn off at stop lights kept giving it throttle and it stayed running but barely
Good video. Very well done. I am going to do the same procedure to my 05 Fatboy this weekend. Thank you for a well done video. It will make my job way easier.
Thanks for the really helpful video. Wouldn't have tried it without your video. My son-in-law and I started at 8:00 and finished 10:30 this morning. With your video, we got the job done. We Had to do a few extra things, but common sense took care of that.Thanks.
Thanks Harleyguy. I watched and followed your step by step video with success.
I have to do this every 6-12 months . Fuel pump keeps going bad, probably from lack of use. Video was very helpful. Thanks...2004 RK custom.
Outstanding video! Thank you sir... You have given me the confidence to do this myself and save 100's $ (what H-D wants to charge).
Great job, thanks guys like you make life better for the rest of us.
thank you, I am halfway there thanks to you, just waiting on parts
I know this is an old video. BUT, A DAMN GOOD VIDEO. THANKS FOR SHARING!!
Very well done video, thank you. I don't need it now but always like more information!
Got a tip for you.. a piece of plastic tubing.. about 17 inches an inch in diameter.. placed in from top of tank insert new hose in the tank while feeding into the tube.. goes really fast .. then just remove the tubing :)
Excellent Video my friend. Thank you so much. I am going to do the same to my 03 Road King.
Appreiciate your going slow enough for me to actually each part going back on
Good job and one the best informed video I have seen thank you
Hope it helps. Thanks for watching, liking and subscribing!
Thanks for the informative video, I have an 03 Heritage Softail Springer, I've been having issues with it bogging out on me sometimes off my throttle but not all the time. Then sometimes when I'm sitting idle at a light or coming to a stop it will die on me..... any suggestions? I replaced the regulator, and the fuel filter but still having some issues.
I was wondering what you did to fix the problem. I replaced the fuel pump relay switch on mine and the key fob battery......working great now.
Thanks for the vid. Just did my 05 roadking.
very informative. One of these days I need to get in there and check out my float. on my 14 FXSBSE once my low fuel light comes on and the last bar is flashing I can only get about 3.5 gallons in on a five gallon tank. I know, Harley right lol.
Sounds like a bent float bar. Not much more than coat hanger wire & if someone was forcing the assembly out, it could have bent upward. Just a guess. HTH 03
Good job. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Top job, well done that man 👍👍🏴
Great set of videos! Thanks
Hey Awesome Video. May I have the part numbers of all the parts you replaced on this fix?
Fantastic video.
I think I would have used some anti seize on the treads of that check valve; as well as some lubricant on the o ring as well. I would also like to know how many miles on this bike when this service/repair was done on it.
Great idle for a injected bike I’m starting this job at present after a 10 day ride hard starting at cold was the first thing with a strong smell of fuel,I’ll clean injectors and replace the fuel filter see what that gives me. Great video cheers
Best damn video I've watched! Great video, too. I'll be doing my "new" 2007 fatboy this month. What's the part number for the lower hose?
If you mean the hose connected to the fuel disconnect check valve, that was already installed onto the new check valve when I bought it from HD. Different model bikes & years have different part #s. Do a HD.com parts lookup for yours.
Thanks for watching!
good video: Thank you for taking the time to create this
Great Video, Honestly I would have replaced the fuel pump while I was in there.
I see your point but I talked to my local dealers best mechanic before I did the job.
He told me the dealership almost never needs to replace electric fuel pumps.
If I need to change the fuel pump in the future, it's easy peasy now.
To date, 1/17/24, with my 22 year old bike & I'm still on the OEM electric fuel pump. Not bad HD!
Thank you so much. Great video!!
What is the proper torque for the 10 top plate cover? I stripped the one at 11:00 and rethreaded it with a tap, hopefully it will stay tight, I also used some teflon tape/gas rated just to add a little bite to the threads on the stripped screw. I have not been able to find the recommended torque for these screws anywhere.
thankz,,,for the video,,,, got my bike going!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Glad it helped. 03
I loved this video and learned a lot. I own the same bike and within the next few weeks am going to remove the heads to replace leaking valve seals. I will remove the tank for this procedure and will replace my fuel filter while I have the tank off. Thank you for doing this, it will help me a lot as I get into the job.
Keith
Man! I sure wish you would make a video of the valve job! My 103 is pinging a little bit when I really get on it and I think I will be doing the same thing in the future. GL with the wrenching!
I'm going to attempt to video the work, I'll let you know.
Hey Bro, sure hope you're making a vid of your work. I'm getting ready to install a set of "Rocker Lockers" in the top end.
2003Harleyguy write me at Gkhall1964@gmail.com and I'll update you on the process
Thanks, You made it easy. The housing for the regulator was bad. it was cracked at the part that holds it on.
05 Ultra
Great Thanks! .. but for something completely different, why do you have on both left and right handle a brake cylinder reservoir ?
I have a hydraulic clutch instead of a cabled clutch. It works much smoother and is self-adjusting. Thanks for watching the video.
@@2003Harleyguy I wish I had a hydraulic clutch.
Good Job. I will do this job myself thanks to you making it look easy.
Glad it helped. Good luck with yours & let us know how it went.
Worked out just fine, the hardest part was figuring out what to push to "unhinge" the fuel pump. Also had to unscrew the float (one phillips screw) to enable the assembly to pull out of the access hole.
Nothing better than the feeling of knowing you can wrench on your own bike! Good deal bro!
Me, next I'm looking to upgrade my stock spring loaded cam tensioner & oil pump to a cool hydraulic unit with a HV oil pump.
Nice job big guy! "Be Safe"
Great job of filming, thks!
I miss the time when gravity took care of all this....
Very helpful thanks for taking the time to make it
THanks man, i needed this help. I have to do one other step. My tank liner has started flaking, so i gotta clean and reline it. There is some debate about the need for tank liner apparently.
did you reline, I have recently discovered my tank liner is doing the same thing
@@johnnylopez6825 No, I did not. I cleaned all the flaking areas really well, (pressure washed), and have had no more problems. I try to keep my tank full when it sits for a minute without being ridden.
@@chadbrown1711 my pump assembly is rusty, I will replace and also my tank liner is shit. Did you use a rust inhibitor ?
What was the correct pattern and the correct torque? If you don't mind me asking. Great video by the way.
I'm not a certified mechanic therefore I don't provide specifics. All torque values can be found in the factory service manual specific to your make and model. 03
@@2003Harleyguy thank you that video help out alot.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
3:11 those crimp clamps you bought. do you know what size and type they were? thank you
@@dumbcat I don't remember for sure but I think they were 3/8" stainless steel. I have bought crimp clamps from advanced auto before but I'm guessing that many auto parts stores carry them or will order them.
@@2003Harleyguy thanks. after much searching this is what i found... "OEM part #10222 pinch clamp. May say '8mm' on package. Is just over 11mm ID before crimping." i ordered a couple. haven't gotten them yet. guess we'll see. update: yes they worked perfectly
Thanks for making it simple.
There were no videos showing this process when I posted this video years ago. So that was the intent, to demystify the process. Glad it helped! Be sure to watch my other videos! Thanks for watching & commenting!
The filter that carries under the fuel pump had 2 cracks. Can I paste them with some contact glue until the piece arrives? Sorry if you do not understand my English very well.
I do not take any short cuts with fuel related parts or service. If it's broke, I follow the HD service manual instructions & repair it with OEM parts or equivalent. HTH
@@2003Harleyguy I understand you, but for a fucking filter I will not stop riding my bike. If the pump is burned before the replacement arrives, I will change everything. but I'll keep rolling. Thanks mate for the video.
a lot of times it's not your fuel pump it's the hoses that developed a small pin hole or even a crack in them reducing your pressure, the reason is all the ethanol in the gas,
What is a good source for the hoses, I've been looking, not easy to identify
and find. 2009 Ultra.
Very informative. Thanks.
Good video sir👍🏼👏🏼
any reason we can not use regular rubber fuel line instead of the plastic lines and worm gear clamps?
I always use stock parts or their equivalent replacement.
Not sure how the gasoline/alcohol fuel sold these days would affect the rubber fuel line over time. My guess is it would degrade very quickly and create a huge mess in your tank. As for the clamps, I have seen way too many radiator type clamps break to use them. The crimp clamps with no moving parts, are definitely the way to go.
HTH, 03
@@2003Harleyguy makes sense the rubber fuel hose would probably make a mess after a while and break down
Thanks for posting that video series! I will be doing the same job with my 2002 RK Classic very soon. Question: Did you initially drain the tank a different way before using the hose and can method?
No. I had roughly 3/4 of a tank when I started. That's why I used a large gas can. You're better off running the tank almost dry if possible. My bike died suddenly, I had to do what I had to do. GL
Thanks for your reply. I'm noticing reduced power, like what it would feel if you were "flooding the carb" when throttling up near max. As I reduce throttle it's like the power jumps back. Weird on an FI bike. No get up and go on hills under load, and just RPM jump when downshifting to gain back reducing power to pass, but no extra pwr, etc. Only thing I can come up with is the pressure regulator issue you talk about. Just bought the bike used last month and I understand it was stored for years.
If I could offer some free advise, I would STRONGLY suggest that you buy a genuine HD service manual for your bike if you don't already have one. Then start an account on HDForums dot com. Go to the tech advice section and post your problems there. TONS of knowledge there. BUT... I will say with your year of bike, you need to THOROUGHLY check the leads to the fuel injectors because harley used the wrong wire and it breaks inside the plastic shielding over time. It causes a gap in the wire & it does exactly what you're describing. You may need to lift your tank up to access along with removing your air cleaner assembly. Start your engine & wiggle the wiring while the bike is running. If the idle changes while wiggling, you know the source of your problems. GL.
Thanks, I'll have to check that out. The bike only had 17k miles on it when I bought it this summer. The circumstantial evidence is fuel, but it's now acting like it has a short or broken spark plug wire. I was going to start replacing everything electrical and fuel, but then I paused. This has to be something simple, like a broken wire. Have a trip planned for Friday to ride 1000 miles. This showed up this week. Great timing.
Oh and BTW, the symptoms of less power, etc was a leaky intake. Got full power back, then it had major issues (12v wire shielding rubbed off & shorted on frame). After that was fixed this week, now the bike is having a lean misfire, bad at times, nothing other times. Trying to figure out if it's another wire or spark plug wire, etc.
Where's part one I don't see it on your page?
How do you drain the tank?
Great job 👏 Thanks
Thanks for watching! 03
Was that a USAF shirt? 20yr Wire Dawg here. Quick question. You mentioned losing fuel pressure on top end in Vid 1. Did that also make your bike hard to start and idle rough, having to play with throttle to keep it running? It runs but i have to tease it to keep mine running. 2005 Heritage Classic here. Already Replaced the Crankshaft Position Sendor and thought i would get lucky. Thanks. Joe
I'm no mechanic but from some of the things I've been told to check out other than the fuel filter & regulator housing are; Swollen fuel line (ID) from check valve to fuel rail (common problem). One or both broken & still arcing wires (do wiggle test) going to fuel injectors (common problem). Split fuel line going from fuel reg housing to check valve (common problem). Bad fuel pump. Clogged fuel inlet filter on fuel pump. Cam chain tensioners (metal to metal). Clogged/leaky fuel injectors. Thanks for your service! Hope this helps.
@@2003Harleyguy Thanks for all the info. Will start to check all that. Was yours idling rough before you replaced it?
Took out the fuel assembly and what did i find. The Regulator housing ear had busted and the o-ring was pooching out....$250 for parts at HD- $25 military discount +18 tax=$ 244.32. Online i had parts at $120 at Jpcycles but without new screws and gasket....I'm about to go install. WIll give update.
@@Joegest1 I like Dennis Kirk for parts too. Most always have everything from many manufacturers. I would use new seal screws & gasket... Fuel goes boom...
Do you know if there is a way to check the old regulator and housing to see if they are still any good. I replaced mine but will save the old for emergency if I can check them
I'm not a certified mechanic, just a shade tree mechanic so I can't give any advice on repairs, only my opinion on what I would do. I would check the "fingers" on the housing for cracks. If the regulator is pushing out of the housing there will be a psi bleed off. But at $14 bucks do you really want to put an old plastic part back into the tank? Glad the vid helped you. Regards
Was talking more about the $45 pressure regulator itself that you and others don't usually change out. Thought you might have checked on it when you were doing the research for your project. I changed mine while I was in there and figured if I could test it and it was fine, I would save it for an emergency. Guess I'll check with a "certified mechanic" Anyway thanks for the video
Tell Bart said hello
Great Job. Ty..
Great stuff. Thanks for the info.
nice video, thank you
So I wonder if your the diy type of guy that rebuilds his efi system while still on your car. Leading to parts dropping down in your intake. Or in this case dropping tools or parts in your tank or even worse, dropping something on your tank. Hats off to ya too, that years cvo paint job is one of my all time favorites. But, why not just pull the tank? Three bolts once the dash is off, and besides the obvious reasons above, youll have to disconnect the cross over tube. Wow, theres how you drain the tank. Use a line clamp in the middle of the tube, pull either end, and push on a 3 ft. piece of hose, letting it drain into an approved gas can. Plus, we all know how bad it hurts your back leaning over the tank from the side to do anything...Then you might say, well the manual doesnt do this for this job. Nope sure doesnt, and rately do I sway from a shop manual, BUT, what happens to these bikes just as often as a leak at the pump is broken wires on top of the injectors, or moreover, leaving the backbone wire traugh. Personally, I like to inspect, check for continuity, and usually clean the rocker covers, inspect intake at both ends, and just give a once over in this whole area. Then, with your tank on the table in front of you on soft mats, continue with your fuel sending assembly removal and repair...Sure is great piece of mind when you know theres no other underlying issue, or even the chance one is about to happen, chaffed wire...Nice vid, nicer bike, hope this helps, good day....
Very Helpful, Thanks !!
Great video. Thanks!. The one question I had was about the sealing nuts. Did you thing it was worth it? I'm kind of new to Harley's and frankly get annoyed when I see the price of some of their parts.
Harley or not, once you've had a fuel tank between your legs catch fire at 60 mph, and blow fire up your face, you will think the sealing nuts & gasket are a bargain! Besides, they really weren't expensive! #1 FIRE RISK! #2 Harley parts are usually fairly priced IMHO. I think the sealing screws were like 6 bucks. #3 I don't like doing jobs twice. #4 Do you really want water flooding into your tank during a sudden downpour of rain or while washing the bike?
Worth doing, worth doing right. Good luck.
Yes indeed, and the gasket/screw set is considered one time use only anyway. At double the price it would be worth it to re-seal everything properly.
did it run better after you did it like defences in throttle response and get up and go
Yes, much better now. It's a 103 so fuel starvation caused lots of problems like missing, backfiring, bucking and so on. Runs like a scalded dog now.
1:20 what different kinds of lubes can we use on the fitting?
Thanks for the video , I'm just about to go through this myself. I do have a shop manual but the video helps simplify the process. What I'm having and issue with is a miss at low rpms and a rough idle. I sprayed the fuel line at the disconnect on the EFI port and the engine cuts out. So I'm thinking a bad o-ring sucking air. I might as well check it all while I'm there. Thanks bro...
Mark siegfried Be sure to check the electric wires going to the fuel injectors for breaks (wiggle test while running) & fuel line going to the fuel rail. GL
I believe that its the oring at the fuel port on the quick disconnect. I sprayed throttle body cleaner on it and the bike cut out. I tried wiggling the injector leads the best I could and nothing happened. It's fn hard to see anything without removing the tank .
Yep & the inside of the fuel line going to the rail will swell shut too. GL
My thoughts are , being that there's only 9000 miles on it and its an 06 Road King that it has some dry rotted or a crack hose somewhere. I'm hoping its just the oring.
I replaced the plug wires . That took out a lot of the misfire but it's still sputtering and surging at low rpms. I wasn't getting that Harley idle that I love such. I found the breather hosed to the air box are dry rotted and cracked. Got new ones today . I'm hoping thats it. Also found the one muffler loose. I bought this bike with 8800 miles off of an old man. so it's been sitting for 12 years.
nice vid thank you
Hey mate what the part number for pressure regulator housing
Great stuff guy! really good video sir. Just wondering if your bike came with the 103cc? I have original 88cc on my heritage. I got the gear upgrade 510G from S&S, did away with tensioner issue all together. I know now what to look for in my tank thank to your video. Great job:)
Yes, came with a 103. It's a 2003 CVO (Screaming Eagle) so it had the 103 instead of the 88. Glad you liked the video. Thanks much, Bob
thank you for the time!!!
did you buy that as a kit or individual pieces
No, individual assemblies from HD. The fuel filter came with a hose, filter, o-ring & clamps. The check valve came with a hose already attached to the check valve. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you this helps.
Good video, But I didn't see a clamp on the hose going to the check valve before you screwed it in.
The hose on the chrome check valve end is SUPER tight & required no clamp nor was there a clamp on the OEM check valve from factory. HTH
Thanks,
Thanks
DO NOT USE drag specialty hoses, they have a high failure rate.
What is the failure rate?
What year bike is this
how did this not kink?
If you mean the fuel line check valve, I clamped the fuel line to FPRH after I tightened the check valve to the tank. HTH 03
👍🏻
You forgot the lock, the fuel pump arm. That's where i'm at really
You know if someone made a Harley SS fuel strainer for the bottom of the fuel pump instead of the cheapass nylon one's I just found in a million pieces in the bottom of my tank, you could probably sell a thousands of them.
You're probably right!
The problem is there's only a handful of us Harley owners who have ever seen the inside of the tank and the strainer. The Steelers love these nylon strainers because they get to charge a bunch to replace and clean up the mess of them deteriorating. My 03 has a brass one I believe so I'm not worried about that one.
Here's the problem as I see it, most HD owner's anymore are afraid to change a tail light bulb on their bike much less tear into the tank. God forbid they would EVER dirty their hands with an oil/filter change!
Congrats to you for being grizzly enough to tear into this job!
Be sure to subscribe and check out some of my other videos like totally rebuilding my brake calipers and doing oil changes without puking oil down the front of your bike.
Good luck, 03
@@2003Harleyguy Best reply I ever got! Thanks! Were do you get a brass one?
I'm not a certified mechanic or technician. I can't give any advice on repairs. HDF dot com (Harley Davidson Forum) Technical forum might be a good place to search online for a solution from certified mechanics. This video should be viewed for entertainment purposes only and nothing else. Good luck.
Just out of curiosity what prompted this maintenance? I've been having some problems with my 06 FLHRSI cutting out when I'm getting on the gas and have since changed out the filter. Still getting the same problem though. I'm wondering if the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and Fuel Check Valve replacement may help.
What numbskull did Harley employ to design this thing and its location?
"Let's immerses a $hxxload of plastic and wiring in the gas tank in such a manner that only gynecologists can access and work on it, THEN charge an arm and a leg for parts!!"
The gasket is a treat,.....fixing a problem that does not exist by inserting thick metal washer/inserts where screws pass through so it will leak!
THEN use crimp clamps that cannot be installed or released without the correct tool.
Boy...they got us there!
You should see what I had to go through to install the new hydraulic cam chain tensioners to replace the spring loaded tensioners, in an upcoming video.
Sadly, "Simple and rugged" is a long forgotten thing of the past... Thanks for watching the video, 03
@@2003Harleyguy
You video helped A LOT! Thank you.
I ask myself, why did Harley feel the need to put a pig in a dress and polish turds?
Fuel injection? Why:
To gain 2 mpg?
To satisfy Kommielifornia regs?
To gain "performance"...🤣
(Erik Buell and the V-Rod did that and look how well that went).
It was simply, a reliable tractor engine, tool rolls carried all you needed for the design, it was maintainable and ran on any gas.
Car-bra-tooters delivered gas/air prehistorically and an S&S B or E Pumper, was simplicity itself, based on the old Linkhert "tube" carb!
EFI is not "progress" - it just "reads right" in the press.
True tale:
I once rode with a group, back in the mid '80's, one of whom had a slipping Shovel clutch. We were camping in the boonies. A plastic sandwich box held the drained primary oil, hex key removed the outer primary, combo wrench, the basket to access clutch plates, a hash brownie disposable tray held the JD, a wire wool scrub pad to clean the glaze off the plates and we poured the oil back through the Derby Cover, whilst three guys leaned the bike over to the right.... cover back inplace - job done!
It was reassembled, by the time the brownies kicked in and it got the guy home 2 days later.
Here I am at 68, my '06 Rat Softail is complicated and so now I appreciate "simple" more as I age and ride.
Oh for my '65 Pan!!!
(Although the mousetrap was a bitch till I "got it" into my head how to adjust it, then I was everybody's hero!!)
Thanks to you I am still sane!
It will not top from outfit back on there if you don't. Why didn't you if you're going to do this? Do it right
Push down ?
On what?
Face the part towards the camera.
Fucking joke allbthat crap has to be fitted back into the tank!!!!!! What happened to just gravity and a petcock to carb!!!!!!!!!
Who ever worked the camera didna horrible job. Your hamd blocks everytjing
THANKS SEÑOR 🙏