Can't thank you enough for posting this. I had to repair a 2 foot crack in the floor of my Citroen Mehari (worlds first plastic car) I used your recipe substituting red Lego's for black ABS - the color was an exact match, nice glossy finish and rock hard after 24 hours - hard to believe how simple it was to repair. All I need to do is install a sheet metal panel on the underside for additional support as its a high stress area. Otherwise the repair is unnoticeable, I even filled a large hole where a large portion of ABS was missing (used gorilla tape as a backing) - if you need a specific color - use Lego's as they are made of ABS plastic
Really nice repair. I disagree that the screen didn’t add much strength though. There is a reason concrete is poured with rebar or metal mesh embedded. The screen will act to resist lateral sheer forces & resist breakage with point loading. You could also apply your first ABS slurry coat, then cover with fiberglass matting, second and third coats as you did. This would work the same as the screen but would be easier to mold around bends/corners/valleys/etc. The highest strength concrete (6000 psi) is 4000 psi concrete with fiberglass fibers added. Again, great video & thank you for sharing. This one is a keeper for sure!
Just wanted to share my experience of the learning the ABS slurry trick from this video. I made some ABS slurry with broken pieces of ABS pipe and acetone. I painted over a cracked ABS elbow fitting of my sink drainage and built up a coat about 2-3mm thick over few days. Soaked the brush in acetone so that it could be reused until the last coat was done. That was a perfect solution to me. The painted ABS slurry dried up with a strong coat of ABS over the crack and the whole elbow, and stopped the leak. I would say it would last as long as the ABS pipes connected to it. This saved me a lot of work of creating enough space and repair afterward for replacing the ABS eblow. Thanks very much this video inspired me for my successful repair.
@@caseyw.8325 I've got a jar of slurry in the shed that I made 3 weeks ago and it's still the same consistancy more or less. I find glass jars work well for storage, as there's no chance of the acetone disolving the glass and they seal really well. Good luck with it all 👍
Used this process to repair my Thule and it worked great; however I used fiberglass cloth instead of window screen and used ABS Pipe Cement, available from the hardware store, instead of trying to make a slurry. The ABS Pipe Cement contains ABS plastic that's been disolved in MEK and acetone. If you use the fiberglass cloth, spread a layer of the pipe cement over the repair area, lay the fiberglass cloth in the wet pipe cement then cover it with more pipe cement.
Home Depot had this stuff on sale. I work for a company that sells a certain brand of hot tub. When we do warranty work, where I need to cut into the bottom of the spa (ABS - thicker then the roof tent shell ill be fixing) , we use ABS medium body cement and Fibatape (drywall stuff). Pair of gloves, a paper cup, and a paintbrush. Pour the abs glue in there, slap some on, layer of tape, and then just cover the tape with the glue. When its ~70'f outside each layer dries in like 5-10 minutes. And it dries really hard too. I had one upside down in the back of the truck and the glue that came out and dried felt hard, like pipe. Had to hit it with a hammer to break it out, and some is still back there
I have repaired both ABS and PVC plastic using the appropriate solvents such as you have. I have always used a mesh of some sort in these repairs including fly screen and believe that it is very beneficial to the overall strength of such repairs. Where parts are subject to ongoing stress, I have even used this method on both sides of the crack/splits. after the repair is totally set (24 hours) you can fine-sand the visible side and finish it as is done in body shops on auto bumpers. If done properly, the repair is almost invisible. Good job on your video.
Good to know. Have a Thule to repair that did not survive wife’s attempt to enter underground parking in spite of being reminded prior to departure and printout on mirror😢🤬😘❤️. Metal Fly screen assume? as have holes as well to fill/repair. Thx
I used this method to repair a yakima roof box; it came out fantastic! I also mixed some up thin to get into the cracks and for places where I didn't want to build it up too much, like where the lid and base have to mate. And I used some thicker sheets of ABS, heat formed them to match the curve, and used them to reinforce where the support had ripped through the ABS. It's super strong and watertight now. Thanks for the tips!
Great to hear the repairs worked well. I really like the heat forming of the ABS sheet to match the curves, that's a handy tip I'll keep in mind for future ABS repairs 👍👌
Nice. I'm about to do the same with a thule roof box I got that someone had backed into a low parking garage. It made a perfect hole in the back, with a single large piece coming loose, and it just puzzles perfectly into the hole. Instead of what you did with the strips of abs for strength, I'm using mending plates and machine screws to put it back together before re-sealing it all with the slurry.
My husband is fixing a cracked drain pipe for the clothes washer underneath our mobile as we speak. He’s a retired auto body repair tech. This was a easy solution. We found the support strap broke and guess the vibrations must have helped cracked the pipe. It’s 21 years old. Fantastic fix!
i'd start with a very thin mix that'll wick into the finer cracks then build up thickness with a thicker mix. also be careful not to apply too much at once or you'll soften and deform the item you're repairing. if you want a more visually appealing finish you can sand it and apply a final coat or two with a paint sprayer.
Reinforcement can be made from fibreglass, carbon fibre, kevlar, hemp, old cotton sheet, whatever is strong (no polyester clothing though). It is to add flexural and tensile strength so that you don’t need as much resin or slurry. Fibreglass is a pain in the arse to work with, especially around statically charged plastic, but it can be laid down with almost any adhesive, hot melted plastic or whatever.
Similar concepts can be used for filling in and strengthening 3D prints, just use the same material as the print is made from, same color and the repair can be blended in till it disappears. It also works for filling in layer lines befor sanding.
Nice video thanks for sharing!!!! You should made two holes at the ends of broken surface in order to stop furter extension of break before any other actions.... Have good time every time!!! Best regards from Hellas (Greece)!!!
Ironically I have the exact same RTT with the exact same problem and I just wanted to find the best way to repair the cracks in the ABS top. Fantastic video mate 👍
Holly crap! How have I never known this! I modified a front pumper to fit an intercooler with fiberglass, and sure enough, it's not holding up. Now I know what to do! Thank you OP for making this video and RUclips for recommending it!
Nicely done bud I never knew you can make a slurry out of abs and use it like Bondo to put plastic back together I appreciate the video this will come in handy for future projects 👍
Somewhat life changing. Incredible solution. I'm using this on ABS sheets to reinforce it and it seems good so far after the first coat. I think it's actually melting into the sheets a tiny bit which seems like it should be a great thing.
Of course! Dissolve ABS in a solvent and use as a filler/reinforcer. Why didn't I think of that?? Thanks for posting this, it solves a lot of my ongoing repair problems and will save $$ over buying plastic fillers.
I have personally used black ABS plumbing cement/glue to repair abs boats & other large items. I use it with fiberglass cloth and have also embedded washers etc in the glue/cloth layers when a fastener hole needed reinforcement. I do as much of this from the back/unseen side as possible and have repaired broken automotive trim saving a trip to the salvage yard for a pricey obsolete part. The fiberglass cloth works extraordinarily well, just use a bondo paddle to squeegie it into the cloth and let dry between layers. (The fumes are horrendous... and don't smoke!)
Well done! Im in the US and have the same exact roof top tent. I bought it used and have no idea what brand it is, ive never seen another like it until this video. Its holding up well, but great to know the fix.
Thanks for sharing. Your measurements for the slurry were perfect. All I had was ABS plumbing pipe. It worked perfect, just a long time to melt. I used pieces of plastic screen door screen to reinforce and it really helped. Thanks
Brilliant video, many thanks for sharing. I crashed my rc model aeroplane and damaged the rudder on impact. The plane is made from white abs plastic and and the rudder got cracked in a few places. Im going to use your method of repair as it looks like a great job. Kind regards.
Thanks for the video. Some other suggest also use of acetone with ABS. While seeing you applying the aluminium fire screen layer, I wonder how it could work adding glass fibre or carbon fibre laminates as layers.
Thank you very much for posting this astonished I'm kind of a shame to myself that I've never thought of anything like this. I have repaired restored fixed more different type of things that I can count and I've used multiple methods to reinforce repair plastics of multiple kinds, with a plethora of different materials, but for some for a reason this idea never crossed my mind.... But it's in there now! This is genius, repair the plastic with the plastic! and unlike using heat, its not really changing the structure of the existing plastic.
Excellent work! I like how you documented everything and showed the before and after. For folks that complain about visual stuff. It could always be sanded and painted.
This is the solution I am looking for. Great video. I have been given a Yakima Skybox that is cracked up. This slurry along with some sheets of ABS should do the trick and I will end up with a nearly free roof box. Thanks!
The slurry is a really good idea. I also like the idea of melting the plastic with acetone in order to embed the wire screen. You did add strength, maybe unnecessarily.
Excellent! I was planning to send my cracked automotive part to get 3D scanned, remanufactured, then prepped, painted, and finally shipped back to me where I'd install it. Would have been weeks, if not months, plus very expensive! Instead, I will fill the stripped mounting bolt hole and repair a crack before repainting the part myself. Since it remains 'ABS' material, I can sand it down and prep it nicely for primer + paint. Thanks!
Super cool. Try drilling each end of the crack to stop the Propagation before repair. (like a 9/64" bit). A thick layer of RTV works well too. Not all RTV is the same, Permetex Right Stuff 1 minute gasket maker (black) is my go to glue/band aid for almost everything. It is vulcanized to the surface verses glued, and flexes without popping off. (example PERMETEX # 25229) The stuff is rated to hold 250 degree F coolant across an unsupported 1/4" gap at like 30 psi. I cover the outside seem of my plastic radiator end caps and never had those repaired seems re-fail. 3/16" thick application. It also re-vulcanizes to itself so you don't have to remove the old properly attached RTV remains if repairing the repair.
I usually just go nuts with a drill on some scrap ABS and use the shavings instead of the larger chunks as that dissolves much quicker. Of course, that can be tedious for larger volumes.
Thank you! I had come up with the same combination of screen and ABS Slurry before seeing your video. But your video did confirm that this method will work well for ABS repair.I have been building a popup roof for my van using 2 full-size ABS pick-up truck canopies (roughly 8' x 6' x 27"). I also used Methol Ethyl Ketone (MEK) to bond large pieces together and used the slurry as a filler.
I have been repairing plastics for nearly 30 years. Your idea of using the mesh is the way to go to distribute the loads and stress better . It is a shame that it is almost impossible to buy acetone in my country. It is regulated because it used in the process of making illegal drugs . Cheers!
I’d definitely use screen in a similar repair if I ever need to do one, both for its grip and additional strength. Can’t really see a downside to having wire embedded in the patch.
What an absolutely brilliant idea. I broke a tab on a grill insert on one of the cars. This concept will work well. I've seen people use a soldering iron to weld but this is would probably work better. The aluminum screen is a good adding tensile and sheer strength (kind of like re-bar in concrete). Fiberglass matting would have worked to I imagine (but probably adds more cost. I'll probably use some sort of fabric as the tab needs a bit of flex (and is really only needed as a spacer.) A HUGE thumbs up!
I now use MEK , Methyl Ethyl Ketone it's better than Acetone , faster melting when you want to stick broken parts together , acetone is very slow to react . ABS plumber's fitting is a very cheap source for ABS , MEK your hardware store in the paint dept.
Brilliant Video..! Used this repair inside a Sears Xcargo 20 roof box. Took the O P suggestion of no mesh and multiple layers. Incredible strong adhesion to box. 4 coats seemed durable on 4"x5" area using a 2" plastic putty knife. Repair is sealed and flexible like original box. Tested 3 hard scrap plastics in a mason jar, only one melted. Chose that one. Added more.
Job looks good. I did notice a couple of spots that you might want to touch up. Towards the end you did a close up of the final product. If you look closely youll see the end of the wire screen. It didnt get completely covered with the slurry. You can actually see the ends of the wires where they were cut. I have no doubt the structure is strong. I also think you were right in using the mesh for extra strength but with the mesh exposed even a tiny bit that leaves a weak spot that will be vulnerable to the elements. Also it leaves room for movement of the mesh against the abs. Over time it will most likely be the cause of failure uf you have one. As a rule you should try to go beyond the damaged area by about an inch if possible that includes the mesh support if used. The mix you made looked perfect. Good video
Good point with making sure the edges of the mesh are well and truly covered, I think that is a good idea. Next time I use this method I'll be keeping this in mind. Fortunately for this repair it isn't exposed to the elements (underside of roof top tent cover) so won't ever be an issue hopefully.
@@fortheloveofvideo6306 thats good its on the underside and if i remember correctly you used aluminum screen. Its also kind of funny you sent this message about an hour ago. I was thinking about you. Im in the middle of reconstructing a garage door opener motor and controls housing. The unit is flawless as far as operation. Its 15.years old but was rarely used. However a bone head doing some work here knocked the hell out of it with something. I think a 2x4. Long story short. I had just worked on it the day before. Adjusted the door and track. Within an hour of him getting here it was not raising and was eratic. I finally climbed up to check things and saw the logic board wasnt attached to the ABS/PC plastic console and the motor cover was only held together by the bulb cover and the metallic tape to reflect heat from the bulbs away from the plastic. The logic board was literally dangling from the wires and was shorting against the frame. Cant buy a replacement. So im piecing it together. Using jb weld uv light cure. And plastic welding. An hour ago i started cutting stainless steel mesh to embed into the panel and the front of the engine cover. There wasnt a single piece bigger than a dime. Jesus i need to get out more. You didnt need to know all of that crap. Ill blame it on the methylele chloride, acetone and ABS/PC fumes from the welding. I miss model glue!
I like your idea of using screen as an additional support. I would bet if you're concerned about adding strength, you could use aluminum screen as long as you have the clearance for the added mass it would provide once coated with the slurry. Very smart thinking on this though; I like it. Edit: watching the video again I hear you say you did use aluminum screen. I expect that did add considerable strength. I'm in the process of the "slurry repair" on a Yakima Rocketbox I picked up used and it works amazingly well. I haven't gotten to the areas I'll use screen on yet though.
Following up my comment a year later, the spot I repaired was too high of a stress location and easily tore the aluminum screen material only my second time out. My repair spot was on the lid, halfway back on the length of the carrier. Not to be outwitted by physics (ha), I sanded it all down and abraded the aluminum fabric away. I then picked up a 10-dollar steel mesh kit by Bondo which is adhesive backed so made it a little handier to hold in place. I used the mesh on the outside of the carrier, going around it section by section to secure it in place with fresh slurry, and then building it up later by layer over several days so it was nice and thick and I could tell each opening in the mesh was filled in and built up. I then used the second piece on the inside of the carrier using the same process. It's now beefed up considerably where the original crack was and I think now the repair will outlast the rest of the carrier! Credit to the uploader of this video; had he not done it I never would've even thought to use this method. This kind of stuff is what makes RUclips worth it.
Great video thanks for that. I have a roof spoiler I have just removed and found the underside has damaged so I will give this method a go and then bond the spoiler back on with VHB adhesive as all mounting points with the studs have deteriorated. 😀
I used the same ratio to mix up some slurry and applied it along with some carbon fiber cloth to fix some cracks in my ABS motorcycle plastics. It worked incredibly well and I think they're now stronger than original. It was hard to get the longer crack to bond, so after a few layers on the backside, I traced the crack with a super fine dremmel cutoff disc from the front to open it up, & filled it with slurry. Saved me over $800 in new plastics. Thanks again.
Maan.. This video got me nervously excited !! I Thank You Soo Much Sir .. For sharing. Highly appreciated !! Will give u a Like on this video for sure.
Will this work with pvc as well? I would think so! Im going to try some pieces of pvc pipe and see if it will dissolve in acetone! Lots of things are made out of pvc and the manufacturing process poisons the planet along with being non recyclable ! If parts of whatever can be repaired it will save the planet maybe in some small way! Thx for getting the gears in my mind working!
Thanks for this video. I’m rebuilding my 1988 Suzuki GSXR-750 after stripping the paint (8 layers) off the fairings I found that there were some pretty substantial separation of the plastic that needed to be fixed. I also found that they were after market fairings made out of ABS, which many products won’t stick too. I just went out and bought some acetone and ABS and am looking forward to slathering it on tomorrow.
My comments seem to be superfluous to what others have said. So, I will just say 'thanks', I had no idea you could do this, and it's has got me out of a big bother.
Once the slurry dried it basically became hard plastic again. It's definitely not brittle, and has only a very small amount of flex which I would say is much the same as an other ABS product. Obviously the more layers you use the thicker it gets overall making it more rigid and less flexible. The repair in the video was quite rigid once dried due to the overall thickness I made it. Hope this helps.
I've fixed a 3D-printer part what was injection molded with ABS. Makerbot didn't want to replace the part for me because it was too old of a machine so I had to improvise. Going to install it right now, let's hope the reinforcements work!
That fucking sucks when companies don't want to help u out due to how old 1 of their products are. Improvising & thinking outside of the box r a must to when dealing with low manufactuering products made with plastic. I call it a factory flaw from these evil companies knowing their device are made to fail.
Would love to know how that worked out for you. I'm enjoying the hilarious self-referential irony that the manufacturer didn't want to deal with a broken part in a product that's made to solve pretty much that very problem.
I use lacker thinner instead of acetone. It's sticks more and is better at breaking down the ABS, not say acetone is not good, just found is less effective.
Oh my GOD! This is literally the only real helpful video. I watched like 10 videos of ABS Slurry but most of them were for 3D printing which is not what I was looking for. Thank you so much for making this video. I do have 1 question, once you make this ABS Slurry, how long does it last shelf wise after you use it? Thank you very much for your helpful video. I have subscribed to your channel. 😁🙏
Really glad you found this helpful, that's why I make these videos! To answer your question, I've had some ABS slurry made up and stored in a glass jar for around 4 months now and it's still liquid. As long as the container you store it in has an airtight seal it seems to last a while.
Man I wish I knew about this when I was trying to repair the cracked dash in my 03 yukon but now I have a new awesome weapon to add to my arsenal!...thanks a million bro!...
question : can a person make the slurry and store it in a jar on the shelf then do a few repairs with same slurry.or will it just harden or can a person just keep adding acitone as needed or does it need to be made every time a repair is needed . only asking becuse i have a few things i can do this with but never in the same week.
Actually Stainless steel mesh adds a great amount of Strength & rigidity to the repair, if it's thick enough I weld in heated steel clip of if it's thin I use staples which I heat with a soldering iron and push into the plastic along the crack before putting on the top coat with SS Mesh you used.
If you encapsulate metal it works well, like a bolt head dipped in the slurry and let dry for example. Not sure how it would go if you just applied it to a flat metal surface though, I have never tested that. My suggestions is do a test piece, and probly a good idea to scuff up and clean metal first, especially if aluminium to remove oxidation and contaminants to give the best chance of adhesion.
Can't thank you enough for posting this. I had to repair a 2 foot crack in the floor of my Citroen Mehari (worlds first plastic car) I used your recipe substituting red Lego's for black ABS - the color was an exact match, nice glossy finish and rock hard after 24 hours - hard to believe how simple it was to repair. All I need to do is install a sheet metal panel on the underside for additional support as its a high stress area. Otherwise the repair is unnoticeable, I even filled a large hole where a large portion of ABS was missing (used gorilla tape as a backing) - if you need a specific color - use Lego's as they are made of ABS plastic
Really nice repair. I disagree that the screen didn’t add much strength though. There is a reason concrete is poured with rebar or metal mesh embedded. The screen will act to resist lateral sheer forces & resist breakage with point loading. You could also apply your first ABS slurry coat, then cover with fiberglass matting, second and third coats as you did. This would work the same as the screen but would be easier to mold around bends/corners/valleys/etc. The highest strength concrete (6000 psi) is 4000 psi concrete with fiberglass fibers added. Again, great video & thank you for sharing. This one is a keeper for sure!
Just wanted to share my experience of the learning the ABS slurry trick from this video. I made some ABS slurry with broken pieces of ABS pipe and acetone. I painted over a cracked ABS elbow fitting of my sink drainage and built up a coat about 2-3mm thick over few days. Soaked the brush in acetone so that it could be reused until the last coat was done. That was a perfect solution to me. The painted ABS slurry dried up with a strong coat of ABS over the crack and the whole elbow, and stopped the leak. I would say it would last as long as the ABS pipes connected to it. This saved me a lot of work of creating enough space and repair afterward for replacing the ABS eblow. Thanks very much this video inspired me for my successful repair.
Really great to hear that nextimpact. I make videos like this to help people so I'm very happy you found it useful 👍😄
Can the slurry be stored and used later? More than just 2 or 3 days... like months.
@@caseyw.8325 I had been using the slurry over a week. Just keep the lip tight and add a bit ancetone if the slurry dry-up a bit.
@@next1mpact Thanks... slurry is started, mi ed 50 Gms of black Legos and 125 mls of Acetone a few hours ago! Soo excited
@@caseyw.8325 I've got a jar of slurry in the shed that I made 3 weeks ago and it's still the same consistancy more or less. I find glass jars work well for storage, as there's no chance of the acetone disolving the glass and they seal really well. Good luck with it all 👍
Used this process to repair my Thule and it worked great; however I used fiberglass cloth instead of window screen and used ABS Pipe Cement, available from the hardware store, instead of trying to make a slurry. The ABS Pipe Cement contains ABS plastic that's been disolved in MEK and acetone. If you use the fiberglass cloth, spread a layer of the pipe cement over the repair area, lay the fiberglass cloth in the wet pipe cement then cover it with more pipe cement.
ABS pipe cement brand??
Home Depot had this stuff on sale. I work for a company that sells a certain brand of hot tub. When we do warranty work, where I need to cut into the bottom of the spa (ABS - thicker then the roof tent shell ill be fixing) , we use ABS medium body cement and Fibatape (drywall stuff). Pair of gloves, a paper cup, and a paintbrush. Pour the abs glue in there, slap some on, layer of tape, and then just cover the tape with the glue. When its ~70'f outside each layer dries in like 5-10 minutes. And it dries really hard too.
I had one upside down in the back of the truck and the glue that came out and dried felt hard, like pipe. Had to hit it with a hammer to break it out, and some is still back there
I have repaired both ABS and PVC plastic using the appropriate solvents such as you have. I have always used a mesh of some sort in these repairs including fly screen and believe that it is very beneficial to the overall strength of such repairs. Where parts are subject to ongoing stress, I have even used this method on both sides of the crack/splits. after the repair is totally set (24 hours) you can fine-sand the visible side and finish it as is done in body shops on auto bumpers. If done properly, the repair is almost invisible. Good job on your video.
I used fiberglass cloth and it worked perfect with my slurry. The slurry saturated just fine.
What material did you use? Acetone any plastic? How long does it take to slurry?
Good to know. Have a Thule to repair that did not survive wife’s attempt to enter underground parking in spite of being reminded prior to departure and printout on mirror😢🤬😘❤️. Metal Fly screen assume? as have holes as well to fill/repair. Thx
I used this method to repair a yakima roof box; it came out fantastic! I also mixed some up thin to get into the cracks and for places where I didn't want to build it up too much, like where the lid and base have to mate. And I used some thicker sheets of ABS, heat formed them to match the curve, and used them to reinforce where the support had ripped through the ABS. It's super strong and watertight now. Thanks for the tips!
Great to hear the repairs worked well. I really like the heat forming of the ABS sheet to match the curves, that's a handy tip I'll keep in mind for future ABS repairs 👍👌
Nice. I'm about to do the same with a thule roof box I got that someone had backed into a low parking garage. It made a perfect hole in the back, with a single large piece coming loose, and it just puzzles perfectly into the hole. Instead of what you did with the strips of abs for strength, I'm using mending plates and machine screws to put it back together before re-sealing it all with the slurry.
Wife attempted same trick 😢. What is a mending plate as I have yet to start and researching methods others have used Thankyou
Figured out what mending plate is.Disregard query.
My husband is fixing a cracked drain pipe for the clothes washer underneath our mobile as we speak. He’s a retired auto body repair tech. This was a easy solution. We found the support strap broke and guess the vibrations must have helped cracked the pipe. It’s 21 years old. Fantastic fix!
i'd start with a very thin mix that'll wick into the finer cracks then build up thickness with a thicker mix. also be careful not to apply too much at once or you'll soften and deform the item you're repairing. if you want a more visually appealing finish you can sand it and apply a final coat or two with a paint sprayer.
Reinforcement can be made from fibreglass, carbon fibre, kevlar, hemp, old cotton sheet, whatever is strong (no polyester clothing though). It is to add flexural and tensile strength so that you don’t need as much resin or slurry. Fibreglass is a pain in the arse to work with, especially around statically charged plastic, but it can be laid down with almost any adhesive, hot melted plastic or whatever.
Similar concepts can be used for filling in and strengthening 3D prints, just use the same material as the print is made from, same color and the repair can be blended in till it disappears. It also works for filling in layer lines befor sanding.
Ok I just finished to watch a bunch of videos about welding plastic and yours is my best option. Thanks for the video .
Happy to help 👍
Hahaha same here! Great video!
Thanks for posting this. I am going to use it to fix a hard to find 40 year old car interior panel.
Nice video thanks for sharing!!!!
You should made two holes at the ends of broken surface in order to stop furter extension of break before any other actions....
Have good time every time!!!
Best regards from Hellas (Greece)!!!
Very informative. I've always believed all plastics to be absolutely irreparable. This video will be of great use.
Ironically I have the exact same RTT with the exact same problem and I just wanted to find the best way to repair the cracks in the ABS top. Fantastic video mate 👍
Holly crap! How have I never known this! I modified a front pumper to fit an intercooler with fiberglass, and sure enough, it's not holding up. Now I know what to do! Thank you OP for making this video and RUclips for recommending it!
Glad I could help!
Nicely done bud I never knew you can make a slurry out of abs and use it like Bondo to put plastic back together I appreciate the video this will come in handy for future projects 👍
same. blew my mind.
Somewhat life changing. Incredible solution. I'm using this on ABS sheets to reinforce it and it seems good so far after the first coat. I think it's actually melting into the sheets a tiny bit which seems like it should be a great thing.
Of course! Dissolve ABS in a solvent and use as a filler/reinforcer. Why didn't I think of that?? Thanks for posting this, it solves a lot of my ongoing repair problems and will save $$ over buying plastic fillers.
I have personally used black ABS plumbing cement/glue to repair abs boats & other large items. I use it with fiberglass cloth and have also embedded washers etc in the glue/cloth layers when a fastener hole needed reinforcement. I do as much of this from the back/unseen side as possible and have repaired broken automotive trim saving a trip to the salvage yard for a pricey obsolete part. The fiberglass cloth works extraordinarily well, just use a bondo paddle to squeegie it into the cloth and let dry between layers. (The fumes are horrendous... and don't smoke!)
Well done! Im in the US and have the same exact roof top tent. I bought it used and have no idea what brand it is, ive never seen another like it until this video. Its holding up well, but great to know the fix.
Thanks for sharing. Your measurements for the slurry were perfect. All I had was ABS plumbing pipe. It worked perfect, just a long time to melt. I used pieces of plastic screen door screen to reinforce and it really helped. Thanks
Brilliant video, many thanks for sharing. I crashed my rc model aeroplane and damaged the rudder on impact. The plane is made from white abs plastic and and the rudder got cracked in a few places. Im going to use your method of repair as it looks like a great job. Kind regards.
Thanks for sharing!🎉 I'm going to try this for my roof box, also have a big crack. Hope it helps🤞🏻
Sir, this video saved me 300 bucks. Thanks for sharing this information with application. Best regards and greetings from Turkey.
Very happy it helped 👍🙂
Thanks for the video. Some other suggest also use of acetone with ABS. While seeing you applying the aluminium fire screen layer, I wonder how it could work adding glass fibre or carbon fibre laminates as layers.
Repaired an ABS boat with ABS glue and plastic sheet rock joint screen. Worked great same as your slurry.
how has the repair held up? I have an abs boat I need to repair myself - any tips welcomed :)
I fixed my ABS motorcycle fairings using your recipe and i had some amazing results. Thanks a lot for your video.
Really glad you found it useful.
Thank you very much for posting this astonished I'm kind of a shame to myself that I've never thought of anything like this.
I have repaired restored fixed more different type of things that I can count and I've used multiple methods to reinforce repair plastics of multiple kinds, with a plethora of different materials, but for some for a reason this idea never crossed my mind....
But it's in there now!
This is genius, repair the plastic with the plastic! and unlike using heat, its not really changing the structure of the existing plastic.
Great job but I somewhat disagree about the flyscreen. I’d think it helps quite a bit because it adds tensile cohesion.
Excellent work! I like how you documented everything and showed the before and after. For folks that complain about visual stuff. It could always be sanded and painted.
Doesn't really harden enough to sand. Apply as smooth as possible and use a thick primer
This is the solution I am looking for. Great video. I have been given a Yakima Skybox that is cracked up. This slurry along with some sheets of ABS should do the trick and I will end up with a nearly free roof box. Thanks!
This video just solved my little crack in my electric skateboard ABS enclosure. Brilliant - saved me lots of time and money.
Glad it helped 👍. I've also used it to repair a crack in an eBike battery enclosure/case made of ABS and it worked a charm as well.
@@fortheloveofvideo6306 great tip to share with my ebike friends!
Try mixing in some milled glass fiber, it should make it even stronger! I use it mixed into epoxy and it works great!
I think that the screen was a great idea. Nice work. Thanks for the tip.
I'd guess plasterboard/drywall jointing tape would work well too - strong/cheap/easily found
The slurry is a really good idea. I also like the idea of melting the plastic with acetone in order to embed the wire screen. You did add strength, maybe unnecessarily.
Excellent! I was planning to send my cracked automotive part to get 3D scanned, remanufactured, then prepped, painted, and finally shipped back to me where I'd install it. Would have been weeks, if not months, plus very expensive! Instead, I will fill the stripped mounting bolt hole and repair a crack before repainting the part myself. Since it remains 'ABS' material, I can sand it down and prep it nicely for primer + paint. Thanks!
Glad the video helped, hope the repairs work out well!
this is a good method as is plastic welding with copper wire for strength depends on the nature of the job
A MASSIVE Thanks Man, Ive been searching for solution for my cracked motorbike seat base, Im going to try this looks like it'll work
Super cool. Try drilling each end of the crack to stop the Propagation before repair. (like a 9/64" bit). A thick layer of RTV works well too. Not all RTV is the same, Permetex Right Stuff 1 minute gasket maker (black) is my go to glue/band aid for almost everything. It is vulcanized to the surface verses glued, and flexes without popping off. (example PERMETEX # 25229)
The stuff is rated to hold 250 degree F coolant across an unsupported 1/4" gap at like 30 psi. I cover the outside seem of my plastic radiator end caps and never had those repaired seems re-fail. 3/16" thick application.
It also re-vulcanizes to itself so you don't have to remove the old properly attached RTV remains if repairing the repair.
I brag on "The Right Stuff" all the time. It can also be put into "service" right away. Best gasket maker out there.
I usually just go nuts with a drill on some scrap ABS and use the shavings instead of the larger chunks as that dissolves much quicker. Of course, that can be tedious for larger volumes.
Thank you! I had come up with the same combination of screen and ABS Slurry before seeing your video. But your video did confirm that this method will work well for ABS repair.I have been building a popup roof for my van using 2 full-size ABS pick-up truck canopies (roughly 8' x 6' x 27"). I also used Methol Ethyl Ketone (MEK) to bond large pieces together and used the slurry as a filler.
Happy to help! Hope your popup roof turns out well 👍
I have been repairing plastics for nearly 30 years. Your idea of using the mesh is the way to go to distribute the loads and stress better .
It is a shame that it is almost impossible to buy acetone in my country. It is regulated because it used in the process of making illegal drugs . Cheers!
Have you tried beauty salon suppliers, salons use acetone to remove nail polish😊
@@cyrilpeterlee1
Bro is out here saving lives!!
What a brilliant idea! Thank you very much for sharing these great instructions!
I’d definitely use screen in a similar repair if I ever need to do one, both for its grip and additional strength. Can’t really see a downside to having wire embedded in the patch.
What an absolutely brilliant idea. I broke a tab on a grill insert on one of the cars. This concept will work well. I've seen people use a soldering iron to weld but this is would probably work better. The aluminum screen is a good adding tensile and sheer strength (kind of like re-bar in concrete). Fiberglass matting would have worked to I imagine (but probably adds more cost. I'll probably use some sort of fabric as the tab needs a bit of flex (and is really only needed as a spacer.)
A HUGE thumbs up!
superglue and Baking Soda sets very quickly as well, and makes good tack welds for ABS plastic.
@@scurvofpcp that tip should be printed on the tube. It makes superglue so much more useful and you can file and sand the result in minutes.
@@kirkc9643 And tap it, on the off chance you need to rebuild a screw hole.
You are a genius my friend. Thank-you for the fantastic idea!
I now use MEK , Methyl Ethyl Ketone it's better than Acetone , faster melting when you want to stick broken parts together , acetone is very slow to react . ABS plumber's fitting is a very cheap source for ABS , MEK your hardware store in the paint dept.
Amazing work, well done, and thanks for sharing!
Great video. I think this technique could.also be used to repair cracks in ABS luggage 💡🧠
If you make the slurry a little thinner you can add glass cloth to reinforce.
thanks for sharing, very well done and informative. bonding the mesh in would add a lot of strength too.
fly screen was definitely the right choice here. personally i would have used a more watery consistency.
Hello. If you don't drill a small hole at the end of a crack to stop it, it will continue its way.....
Excellent man, great video with a great solution to a problem 👍
Brilliant Video..! Used this repair inside a Sears Xcargo 20 roof box. Took the O P suggestion of no mesh and multiple layers.
Incredible strong adhesion to box. 4 coats seemed durable on 4"x5" area using a 2" plastic putty knife.
Repair is sealed and flexible like original box.
Tested 3 hard scrap plastics in a mason jar, only one melted. Chose that one. Added more.
Damn, this is genius!!
Finally some one has come up with a practical solution for ABS repairs
Looking for a way to modify a wide body kit due to some things not lining up properly. This seems to be the fix for filling the gap
Job looks good. I did notice a couple of spots that you might want to touch up. Towards the end you did a close up of the final product. If you look closely youll see the end of the wire screen. It didnt get completely covered with the slurry. You can actually see the ends of the wires where they were cut. I have no doubt the structure is strong. I also think you were right in using the mesh for extra strength but with the mesh exposed even a tiny bit that leaves a weak spot that will be vulnerable to the elements. Also it leaves room for movement of the mesh against the abs. Over time it will most likely be the cause of failure uf you have one. As a rule you should try to go beyond the damaged area by about an inch if possible that includes the mesh support if used. The mix you made looked perfect. Good video
Good point with making sure the edges of the mesh are well and truly covered, I think that is a good idea. Next time I use this method I'll be keeping this in mind. Fortunately for this repair it isn't exposed to the elements (underside of roof top tent cover) so won't ever be an issue hopefully.
@@fortheloveofvideo6306 thats good its on the underside and if i remember correctly you used aluminum screen. Its also kind of funny you sent this message about an hour ago. I was thinking about you. Im in the middle of reconstructing a garage door opener motor and controls housing. The unit is flawless as far as operation. Its 15.years old but was rarely used. However a bone head doing some work here knocked the hell out of it with something. I think a 2x4. Long story short. I had just worked on it the day before. Adjusted the door and track. Within an hour of him getting here it was not raising and was eratic. I finally climbed up to check things and saw the logic board wasnt attached to the ABS/PC plastic console and the motor cover was only held together by the bulb cover and the metallic tape to reflect heat from the bulbs away from the plastic. The logic board was literally dangling from the wires and was shorting against the frame. Cant buy a replacement. So im piecing it together. Using jb weld uv light cure. And plastic welding. An hour ago i started cutting stainless steel mesh to embed into the panel and the front of the engine cover. There wasnt a single piece bigger than a dime. Jesus i need to get out more. You didnt need to know all of that crap. Ill blame it on the methylele chloride, acetone and ABS/PC fumes from the welding. I miss model glue!
Great job...very well thought out and documented! and a money saver too..fantastic!
Tried on undercover tonneau cover that was cracked on the underneath side and worked perfectly.
Thanks for your video
That's way cool! And Acetone is very accessible unlike some other chemical another video mentioned.
mek methyl ethyl ketone or plumbers priming fluid which the later is available
I like your idea of using screen as an additional support. I would bet if you're concerned about adding strength, you could use aluminum screen as long as you have the clearance for the added mass it would provide once coated with the slurry. Very smart thinking on this though; I like it.
Edit: watching the video again I hear you say you did use aluminum screen. I expect that did add considerable strength. I'm in the process of the "slurry repair" on a Yakima Rocketbox I picked up used and it works amazingly well. I haven't gotten to the areas I'll use screen on yet though.
Following up my comment a year later, the spot I repaired was too high of a stress location and easily tore the aluminum screen material only my second time out. My repair spot was on the lid, halfway back on the length of the carrier. Not to be outwitted by physics (ha), I sanded it all down and abraded the aluminum fabric away. I then picked up a 10-dollar steel mesh kit by Bondo which is adhesive backed so made it a little handier to hold in place. I used the mesh on the outside of the carrier, going around it section by section to secure it in place with fresh slurry, and then building it up later by layer over several days so it was nice and thick and I could tell each opening in the mesh was filled in and built up. I then used the second piece on the inside of the carrier using the same process. It's now beefed up considerably where the original crack was and I think now the repair will outlast the rest of the carrier!
Credit to the uploader of this video; had he not done it I never would've even thought to use this method. This kind of stuff is what makes RUclips worth it.
Great video thanks for that. I have a roof spoiler I have just removed and found the underside has damaged so I will give this method a go and then bond the spoiler back on with VHB adhesive as all mounting points with the studs have deteriorated. 😀
That's a great idea! Thank you for that
It would be nice if you posted links to the specific tools you used, including the gun.
Awesome video, thanks! I'll try it on my motorcycle fairings.
I used the same ratio to mix up some slurry and applied it along with some carbon fiber cloth to fix some cracks in my ABS motorcycle plastics. It worked incredibly well and I think they're now stronger than original. It was hard to get the longer crack to bond, so after a few layers on the backside, I traced the crack with a super fine dremmel cutoff disc from the front to open it up, & filled it with slurry. Saved me over $800 in new plastics. Thanks again.
Brilliant. Thank you.
Maan.. This video got me nervously excited !! I Thank You Soo Much Sir .. For sharing.
Highly appreciated !!
Will give u a Like on this video for sure.
this is game changing thanks , i wonder what other types of plastic this will work with
All styrene based plastics.
Will this work with pvc as well? I would think so! Im going to try some pieces of pvc pipe and see if it will dissolve in acetone! Lots of things are made out of pvc and the manufacturing process poisons the planet along with being non recyclable ! If parts of whatever can be repaired it will save the planet maybe in some small way! Thx for getting the gears in my mind working!
Thanks for this video. I’m rebuilding my 1988 Suzuki GSXR-750 after stripping the paint (8 layers) off the fairings I found that there were some pretty substantial separation of the plastic that needed to be fixed. I also found that they were after market fairings made out of ABS, which many products won’t stick too. I just went out and bought some acetone and ABS and am looking forward to slathering it on tomorrow.
Need to repair a cowling on a Ninja 500. How did this work for you?
My comments seem to be superfluous to what others have said. So, I will just say 'thanks', I had no idea you could do this, and it's has got me out of a big bother.
This looks great I'm gonna try using this to reinforce a plastic inlet manifold on an engine for running boost!
Glad you liked it 👍. That's another application for this method I hadn't really thought of. Let us know how it turns out.
That's what I was looking for, thanks for the video.
Awesome!! Ill be using this method to strengthen my cracking dash.
Great video for showing how to make and apply abs slurry. After the abs slurry dried, the coating would be fleixble or brittle. Thanks.
Once the slurry dried it basically became hard plastic again. It's definitely not brittle, and has only a very small amount of flex which I would say is much the same as an other ABS product. Obviously the more layers you use the thicker it gets overall making it more rigid and less flexible. The repair in the video was quite rigid once dried due to the overall thickness I made it. Hope this helps.
@@fortheloveofvideo6306 Great info. I will try it. Thanks again.
@@next1mpact not a problem, good luck with your repair 👍
I've fixed a 3D-printer part what was injection molded with ABS. Makerbot didn't want to replace the part for me because it was too old of a machine so I had to improvise. Going to install it right now, let's hope the reinforcements work!
Hopefully it does the job 👍
That fucking sucks when companies don't want to help u out due to how old 1 of their products are. Improvising & thinking outside of the box r a must to when dealing with low manufactuering products made with plastic. I call it a factory flaw from these evil companies knowing their device are made to fail.
Would love to know how that worked out for you. I'm enjoying the hilarious self-referential irony that the manufacturer didn't want to deal with a broken part in a product that's made to solve pretty much that very problem.
I use lacker thinner instead of acetone. It's sticks more and is better at breaking down the ABS, not say acetone is not good, just found is less effective.
Oh my GOD! This is literally the only real helpful video. I watched like 10 videos of ABS Slurry but most of them were for 3D printing which is not what I was looking for. Thank you so much for making this video. I do have 1 question, once you make this ABS Slurry, how long does it last shelf wise after you use it? Thank you very much for your helpful video. I have subscribed to your channel. 😁🙏
Really glad you found this helpful, that's why I make these videos! To answer your question, I've had some ABS slurry made up and stored in a glass jar for around 4 months now and it's still liquid. As long as the container you store it in has an airtight seal it seems to last a while.
Knew about acetone and thermocol aka polyesterene,never knew it could melt abs too. Thanks for sharing, you earned a sub
Thanks for the sub!
very cool video~~~~you can also fill molds, make lots of things. Woody" neighbor of mine, cast a harley motor. looked Real~ yep
Man I wish I knew about this when I was trying to repair the cracked dash in my 03 yukon but now I have a new awesome weapon to add to my arsenal!...thanks a million bro!...
Always good to have more useful things in the arsenal. Hope it comes in handy in the future 👍
@@fortheloveofvideo6306 rite on man!...30 plus years mechanic and always trying to learn new things!...you never know everything!...
@Big Chief Drink a Brew, from Yankton! thanks bro!
Thanks very much mate for the vid. Excellent. I'm using the slurry to help reinforce my rear splitter on my race car. Awesome!
You just made my day so much more interesting.
question : can a person make the slurry and store it in a jar on the shelf then do a few repairs with same slurry.or will it just harden or can a person just keep adding acitone as needed or does it need to be made every time a repair is needed . only asking becuse i have a few things i can do this with but never in the same week.
Excellent video and procedure!
Excellent tip, and very useful!
The most easy way of fixing i have cracks on my rrt and was hoping that someone had the same issue
Hope this video has been helpful. Let us know how your repairs go 👍
Nice one. Never knew you could do that with abs
Brilliant idea. great video.
Good Work Bro.
Actually Stainless steel mesh adds a great amount of Strength & rigidity to the repair, if it's thick enough I weld in heated steel clip of if it's thin I use staples which I heat with a soldering iron and push into the plastic along the crack before putting on the top coat with SS Mesh you used.
Nice! Never seen this before! Thx
The alu screen looks like a perfect sollution. Wondering if it is possible to make a whole fender.
I reckon it's possible, but getting the shape and finish just right could be hard.
This is very helpful.
What a top video. 👍👍👍
Awesome, fixed a pool Skimmer with it!
Thank you for doing the homework on this shared project. Do you know if this slurry will adhere to metals?
If you encapsulate metal it works well, like a bolt head dipped in the slurry and let dry for example. Not sure how it would go if you just applied it to a flat metal surface though, I have never tested that. My suggestions is do a test piece, and probly a good idea to scuff up and clean metal first, especially if aluminium to remove oxidation and contaminants to give the best chance of adhesion.
The slurry you made is pretty much the same as ABS cement you can buy at home improvement stores meant for ABS pipes.