Absolutely amazing explanation ,I pick up tons of scrap veggies from groceries in my area every week, My garden loves it ,thank you for your knowledge, from vancouver ,Canada 🇨🇦
Love it! What a simple yet fact-packed video. The gestures make it just golden. The microbes being suspended in water really brought a much needed ear-to-ear smile to my face.
You are doing amazing work guys, Elaine's work is already impacting my growing experiences and way I grow soil and therefore best foods possible! Thank you Heap it, Heat it, Spread it! that is the way we compost, that is the way we grow!
Thank you Matt Powers - I cherish viewing your videos; so much valuable content and inspiration!! I hope to see and hear from you again at this year's National Heirloom Exposition here in Santa Rosa, CA. I loved witnessing the energy and enthusiasm you imbued the audience with this last year, which led to a well deserved standing ovation! Cheers to abundance and love for Mother Earth and each other!!! :D P.S. Where is that upcoming Elaine Ingham Webinar link Matt?? ;)
I have physical problems that means it is very difficult for me to turn my compost. I am super excited today, because I bought a huge double tumbler in addition to my compost bin. I have a smallish city garden that I'm slowly turning into a miniature food forest. I had a huge load of (free!) wood chips delivered recently, which I partially use as mulch, and part of which I will chip even smaller and mix in with my hedge clippings, kitchen waste and the neighbors' bunny's poo. 😃 I never thought I would be so pumped to receive a gift of rabbit poop! 😂
I want to start composing again. Back in the early 70s I was hot composting. It was laboring and I didn’t have a lot of material. I have a large lawn and been just dumping my grass clippings and leaves around the perimeter of my yard to keep the forest from encroaching. It seems like such a waste and buying compost and soil has gotten too expensive. Of course I’m a lot older now and turning the mulch (grass, leaves and cow manure) over is laboring and hard on the body. At this point I’m trying small open piles as opposed to having stalls where I have to dig out and move to another stall. Is there a simpler way to hot compost without so much turning over the piles? I like what you are teaching and the concept of growing dirt. Building a small hoop greenhouse and want to use these felt buckets I came across on Amazon. Used them for the first time this year and had a bummer crop of tomatoes but want to use my own dirt.
You can always control heat in a compost heap and lessen the # of turns with adding EM to the water (EM is effective microbes). I have a video on that: ruclips.net/video/7H9D33Fjz3U/видео.html
I just checked the bottom of my pile I put together I want to say last summer right before fall happened. Just made sure you do roughly 50 50 of greens and browns, layering it as you go with veggie scraps or whatever you have mixed in. Mostly leaves run over with the mower works great, just be sure to either chop with the mower after a good rain when they're moist, then layer in a wire fence circle at least 3' wide and 3' tall. You have to have enough mass there for the pile to get hot. If it isn't hot enough it is because you don't have greens and brown dispersed evenly, or not enough greens, which used coffee you can get from any coffee shop or gas station if you ask and maybe give them a bucket and pick it up daily they do not mind saving it for you. I almost got my pile TOO hot. So I just turned it, wet it, let it do its thing for a while, then went and checked the temp again. It was still hot. So i added more layers to it as I'm in Texas and I'm mowing year round basically and my giant ash and neighbors birch trees create 2 to 3 ft of leaves across my 2.5 acres lot plus I take care of the vacant home next doors yard...anyway, I've got roughly 25 30 gallon bags of leaves, birch and oak (makes great mycelium rich leaf mold to inoculate your garden and trees with just sitting damp in a garbage bag with holes for aeration, check on it after 8 months or so) oak by itself and then idk how many bags of just ash. plus two full residential waste pick up garbage cans full of birch leaves and bark peelings I'm still trying to use. Had to make another pile put of an industrial wooden crate that is basically ENTIRELY LEAVES FROM MY YARD and the neighbors for an good mix, plus some layers of grass and green leaves and some cow manure from my dad's farm in town to ensure it would heat up, and coffee grounds for good measure. The finer the particles are the more compressed it will become, needing you to turn more. You can do layers of large leaves and grass clippings then switch it up and use a different particle size. If you really don't want to turn it, just ensure you get a 2 or 3" piece of pvc with holes drilled all over it....then insert it into the center and in between the center of the pile and then outside ring, as you're building the pile up and wetting the layers (the more the merrier, as it's allowing oxygen into the pile to keep the microbes doing their thing...which creates the heat. ) some really effective designs were in the shape of one tube in the middle, with maybe 5 around the center one about a a foot out) plus after its built you can toss worms into the tubes, and so long as the holes drilled are large enough they'll migrate out into the pile, once it's cooled down enough to do so. Personally I like using a mix of everything in my yard and from my dad's farm down the road, to get a great mix of fungal and bacterial life and of course worms. Usually I use old felled tree branches that are breaking down and getting soft and squishy, as they hold water, along with the other ingredients I stated. I also use horse manure. As no one would feed their horse anything with roundup, so it's safer and it attracts worms like crazy. The horse manure will sprout the weed seeds inside as only cow manure is actually sterile with no weed seeds prior to compost, it's actually used as a soil growing most medium in ayervedic areas by gardeners, as it is sterile, and turns into beautiful compost as is breaks down does not burn plants or seedlings during breakdown.) Anyway the seeds in the horse manure if there are any, will sprout but that is only adding more greens into your pile, which creates more heat. The sprouting sprouting isn't a bad thing. Mostly you just have to start making your piles big enough to make them hot. It will still break down but it's a cold compost and since you have it at at the edge of trees it will be inoculated by the mycelium (white fungal networks that coat the root hairs on all plants and especially trees, they exchange sugars with plants for minerals and water. They communicate between the soil and the tree or plant. We must have the fungal networks, as well as bacteria. So having your clippings and leaves breaking down right there is a good thing. If you want more fungal dominant use more leaves and wood bits, along with the grass clippings. If you want more bacterial, and hot compost, use 50 50 roughly. But make sure it's at least 3 ft, probably more like 5 ft tall, and at least 3 to 4 ft wide, as it will shrink, rapidly. And keep pile damp like a moist sponge. If it dries out, it stops the compost process because bacteria need oxygen, air, and water just like us. If it'd still not getting hot, toss coffee grounds and it will boost it significantly. Good luck
Also if you're going to buy compost or garden soil, try a garden center like lowes, they mark the bags that are split or ripped as $1 and the super expensive stuff if cut or has a damage in any way half off, although if you make friends with the guys that work in the garden center they will gladly give you a $15 pound bag of organic compost for a buck still or worst case, they'll give you 50% off if nothing has actually spilled out of the bag. Happy gardening
Thank you so much Man. Love watching your videos and love watching Elaine's videos. Was thinking about taking her 3 courses online and learning how to use a microscope. Keep up the good work man!
Im such a geek for this stuff. I can relate to your enthusiasm! About half of my garden started with Baker Creek... anyway love this stuff!! -Amanda, Va
It does a bit of both actually. I think the most recent video with Dr. James White, the mycologist, on indigenous seed saving methods & microbes will provide more in-depth answers.
Matt, hopefully a quick question, not a garden question, that you can help me out with. We have a "new" lawn (three years old) that I cannot get the DW to switch over to a garden but would love to get the lawn ready to change over if neccessary. Frequently using compost tea you were able to improve your garden soil, would that work for lawns?
@@ambersykora352 I think she actually does fish hydrolysate,says it’s more complex a food source takes longer to break down and is just better all around
Hey Matt. I have a question for you- I read about a guy who uses his stinging nettle plants soaked in water for three days to spray his plants with-keeps away insects and feeds the plants. So I soaked the remains of my nettle crop, had to unexpectedly go away for a while, came back and there where small white fat wormies on the edge of the water, about 1cm long. So I just put the airated lid back on +left it there in the 20gallon tub, hoping they'd disintegrate or something. It's been exactly a year now. What do I do with this stuff??
I was reading a Bill Mollisons permaculture designer pamphlet and he mentioned the typical compost pile is counter productive as the heat generated is energy being lost to atmosphere. He states he’d rather just add the material under mulch and let the soil absorb/break it down. Thoughts?
80s concepts of compost were mixed - sometimes it helped and sometimes it hurt. There's a reason I had to update Bill's work - it's based on older science. If you balance your materials properly, you avoid losing a lot of nutrients and the pile does not shrink a ton. In addition, if you add EM you can transform the nitrogenous elements in the compost into amino acids and compost at a lower temperature losing less heat energy and less N and C into the air. You'd like my courses I think - my work is the first peer reviewed permaculture textbook series EVER and the first cited since Bill's 1989 work which is on some level is WILD that no one has done the work to update things, but that's why I do what I do and work with hundreds of experts all over the world.
There is actually a difference between worm castings and Vermicompost! Thanks to the people at Build a Soil in the no till indoor cannabis community I was made aware of this! Worm castings are simply vegetables that have been passed through worms, and are pretty good. Vermicompost is finished compost often sourced from a vast array of materials including wood, bark, manure, or even worm castings that has been passed through a worm. Which is much better, apparently. But if you want to turn worm castings to vermicompost you have to put your worm castings in your compost pile first. Because worms do not like living in extremely high concentrations of their own wastes.
Most vermicompost is made out of only vegetable from the kitchen because they lack weed seeds. Since worms cannot digest weed seeds it makes no sense to geed them anything but what comes from the kitchen, hence to me, vermicompost is always worm castings when a finished product ;)
Ok so I have gone and looked now. The people in the no till cannabis community (these people are pioneering the idea of a fully functioning soil food web utilizing raised beds indoors) seem to think there is a difference. Now that I look at some of the descriptions of the commercially available products I am even more confused. This makes me glad that I raise worms at home haha! Either way, depending on the company and the product, the definition of worm castings and vermicompost seems to vary greatly. I understand what thermophillic compost is compared to other types though. Not that I have experience with it, I tried to put together my first thermophilic compost pile last season and it is mostly decomposed now, but I thought it would be much faster, I just have a lot to learn I guess.
Totally different types of worms. Compost worms live jn the top few inches in organic matter that is decomposing. Also depends on the area you live in, north or south. Earthworms although they may move up into a pile if it rains, will leave once again if it becomes hot. Earthworms live deep into the soil. They eat the castings of compost worms that live under the top layers of decaying material. Which is why they only come up if it rains too much and floods, as well as I've noticed they like to lay their egg cases in the first few inches of soil in very moist areas, especially after a rain, but thats where the hatched worms woukd find the castings left in that top layer from composting worms that have broken down leaves or whatever in the dirt or your compost pile. That's why you can't really throw a composting worm into your garden, it won't survive unless you do a buried small can eith holes drilled in it and put moist food scraps and damp bedding material in it and keep it watered around that area, keep it covered, and out of the sun. You can put composting worms into a compost pile if it is a cold compost pile with tunes with holes drilled for aeration, and if you have the outer ring or structure covered in a breathable material to ensure no loss of air or loss of moisture and if the pile is comprised of mostly decayed woody material, like OLD CHIPPED UP OR squishy broken down wood such as old branches that are easy to break apart with your hands, with maybe a mix of cow or especially horse manure, (horse manure must be throughly rinsed with rain water or hose to ensure all ammonia is gone, as the worms won't move in until it's drained away and started to break down. But ya red wigglers love horse manure compost piles.) So you can add red wigglers or whatever type of vermivompost worm that can withstand your climate in a cold compost pile that stays moist and has oxygen, and only uses woody aged materials, rotted broken down limbs or aged wood chips and horse manure or cow manure (cow manure is sterile it also attracts compost worms, once it's been rained on or sprayed down to start the decomposition. And it's an excellent food source for the worms. Spent coffee grounds that again are aged and rinsed, are a good food and bedding for compost worms in the cold pile too. Could use it to create warm spots in the pile for the warms to survive winter as well if you had enough in an area.
I still don't understand how to get this compost thing going. I have a compost tumbler that I bought and I put kitchen scraps in. It gets super hot here in the summer, I am in West Texas the lower Panhandle of West Texas. It's hot and dry here and so either the compost is dried out or... No it's just dried out.
Water it! Regularly! Add some browns and greens in addition to the scraps. Fallen leaves and grass clippings are the most readily available. Add at a 1 to 1 ration. You don't want standing water in your bin, but you definitely want moisture present all the time.
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Absolutely amazing explanation ,I pick up tons of scrap veggies from groceries in my area every week, My garden loves it ,thank you for your knowledge, from vancouver ,Canada 🇨🇦
Love it! What a simple yet fact-packed video. The gestures make it just golden. The microbes being suspended in water really brought a much needed ear-to-ear smile to my face.
Man you have got me so hyped up to compost, i feel pumped to transform dead and barren soil around me
You are doing amazing work guys, Elaine's work is already impacting my growing experiences and way I grow soil and therefore best foods possible! Thank you
Heap it, Heat it, Spread it! that is the way we compost, that is the way we grow!
Thank you Matt Powers - I cherish viewing your videos; so much valuable content and inspiration!! I hope to see and hear from you again at this year's National Heirloom Exposition here in Santa Rosa, CA. I loved witnessing the energy and enthusiasm you imbued the audience with this last year, which led to a well deserved standing ovation! Cheers to abundance and love for Mother Earth and each other!!! :D P.S. Where is that upcoming Elaine Ingham Webinar link Matt?? ;)
Hope to see you again there sometime Sean!!!
I have physical problems that means it is very difficult for me to turn my compost. I am super excited today, because I bought a huge double tumbler in addition to my compost bin. I have a smallish city garden that I'm slowly turning into a miniature food forest. I had a huge load of (free!) wood chips delivered recently, which I partially use as mulch, and part of which I will chip even smaller and mix in with my hedge clippings, kitchen waste and the neighbors' bunny's poo. 😃 I never thought I would be so pumped to receive a gift of rabbit poop! 😂
True superheroes. Thank you
I want to start composing again. Back in the early 70s I was hot composting. It was laboring and I didn’t have a lot of material. I have a large lawn and been just dumping my grass clippings and leaves around the perimeter of my yard to keep the forest from encroaching. It seems like such a waste and buying compost and soil has gotten too expensive. Of course I’m a lot older now and turning the mulch (grass, leaves and cow manure) over is laboring and hard on the body. At this point I’m trying small open piles as opposed to having stalls where I have to dig out and move to another stall. Is there a simpler way to hot compost without so much turning over the piles? I like what you are teaching and the concept of growing dirt.
Building a small hoop greenhouse and want to use these felt buckets I came across on Amazon. Used them for the first time this year and had a bummer crop of tomatoes but want to use my own dirt.
You can always control heat in a compost heap and lessen the # of turns with adding EM to the water (EM is effective microbes). I have a video on that: ruclips.net/video/7H9D33Fjz3U/видео.html
I just checked the bottom of my pile I put together I want to say last summer right before fall happened. Just made sure you do roughly 50 50 of greens and browns, layering it as you go with veggie scraps or whatever you have mixed in. Mostly leaves run over with the mower works great, just be sure to either chop with the mower after a good rain when they're moist, then layer in a wire fence circle at least 3' wide and 3' tall. You have to have enough mass there for the pile to get hot. If it isn't hot enough it is because you don't have greens and brown dispersed evenly, or not enough greens, which used coffee you can get from any coffee shop or gas station if you ask and maybe give them a bucket and pick it up daily they do not mind saving it for you. I almost got my pile TOO hot. So I just turned it, wet it, let it do its thing for a while, then went and checked the temp again. It was still hot. So i added more layers to it as I'm in Texas and I'm mowing year round basically and my giant ash and neighbors birch trees create 2 to 3 ft of leaves across my 2.5 acres lot plus I take care of the vacant home next doors yard...anyway, I've got roughly 25 30 gallon bags of leaves, birch and oak (makes great mycelium rich leaf mold to inoculate your garden and trees with just sitting damp in a garbage bag with holes for aeration, check on it after 8 months or so) oak by itself and then idk how many bags of just ash. plus two full residential waste pick up garbage cans full of birch leaves and bark peelings I'm still trying to use. Had to make another pile put of an industrial wooden crate that is basically ENTIRELY LEAVES FROM MY YARD and the neighbors for an good mix, plus some layers of grass and green leaves and some cow manure from my dad's farm in town to ensure it would heat up, and coffee grounds for good measure. The finer the particles are the more compressed it will become, needing you to turn more. You can do layers of large leaves and grass clippings then switch it up and use a different particle size. If you really don't want to turn it, just ensure you get a 2 or 3" piece of pvc with holes drilled all over it....then insert it into the center and in between the center of the pile and then outside ring, as you're building the pile up and wetting the layers (the more the merrier, as it's allowing oxygen into the pile to keep the microbes doing their thing...which creates the heat. ) some really effective designs were in the shape of one tube in the middle, with maybe 5 around the center one about a a foot out) plus after its built you can toss worms into the tubes, and so long as the holes drilled are large enough they'll migrate out into the pile, once it's cooled down enough to do so. Personally I like using a mix of everything in my yard and from my dad's farm down the road, to get a great mix of fungal and bacterial life and of course worms. Usually I use old felled tree branches that are breaking down and getting soft and squishy, as they hold water, along with the other ingredients I stated. I also use horse manure. As no one would feed their horse anything with roundup, so it's safer and it attracts worms like crazy. The horse manure will sprout the weed seeds inside as only cow manure is actually sterile with no weed seeds prior to compost, it's actually used as a soil growing most medium in ayervedic areas by gardeners, as it is sterile, and turns into beautiful compost as is breaks down does not burn plants or seedlings during breakdown.) Anyway the seeds in the horse manure if there are any, will sprout but that is only adding more greens into your pile, which creates more heat. The sprouting sprouting isn't a bad thing.
Mostly you just have to start making your piles big enough to make them hot. It will still break down but it's a cold compost and since you have it at at the edge of trees it will be inoculated by the mycelium (white fungal networks that coat the root hairs on all plants and especially trees, they exchange sugars with plants for minerals and water. They communicate between the soil and the tree or plant. We must have the fungal networks, as well as bacteria. So having your clippings and leaves breaking down right there is a good thing. If you want more fungal dominant use more leaves and wood bits, along with the grass clippings. If you want more bacterial, and hot compost, use 50 50 roughly. But make sure it's at least 3 ft, probably more like 5 ft tall, and at least 3 to 4 ft wide, as it will shrink, rapidly. And keep pile damp like a moist sponge. If it dries out, it stops the compost process because bacteria need oxygen, air, and water just like us. If it'd still not getting hot, toss coffee grounds and it will boost it significantly. Good luck
Also if you're going to buy compost or garden soil, try a garden center like lowes, they mark the bags that are split or ripped as $1 and the super expensive stuff if cut or has a damage in any way half off, although if you make friends with the guys that work in the garden center they will gladly give you a $15 pound bag of organic compost for a buck still or worst case, they'll give you 50% off if nothing has actually spilled out of the bag. Happy gardening
Love the way you explain
Thank you so much Man. Love watching your videos and love watching Elaine's videos. Was thinking about taking her 3 courses online and learning how to use a microscope. Keep up the good work man!
Awesome message mate
Im such a geek for this stuff. I can relate to your enthusiasm! About half of my garden started with Baker Creek... anyway love this stuff!! -Amanda, Va
Keep going, dude, thank you for your time from Czech Republic :)
Wow! So much info I love it 😍
What if your property/homestead was hit by a fire hard. Can you still use all the weeds for composting?
Connecting the biomes! Great work bro! God bless
Can we still see her webinar?
If we spray seeds with compost tea and then it dries, won't those microbes die? Or do they go dormant? Thanks
It does a bit of both actually. I think the most recent video with Dr. James White, the mycologist, on indigenous seed saving methods & microbes will provide more in-depth answers.
Matt, hopefully a quick question, not a garden question, that you can help me out with. We have a "new" lawn (three years old) that I cannot get the DW to switch over to a garden but would love to get the lawn ready to change over if neccessary. Frequently using compost tea you were able to improve your garden soil, would that work for lawns?
Absolutely! Compost teas can be made to serve orchards, gardens, lawns, and all settings :) It's just important to match the tea to the situation.
@@MattPowersSoil Thanks Matt, needed a way to improve the soil without have to top dress every year.
oh wow thank you Elaine!
you are really the best man
Great speech many infos - thumbs up
Now is it necessary to add sugar to the compost tea or is it enough to aerate it?
Bio-Garten Reich ha! The real sweet tea :-)
I believe molasses would be effective. Ask Eileen. She has her own videos. Along with a tiny bit of fish emulsion.
@@ambersykora352 I think she actually does fish hydrolysate,says it’s more complex a food source takes longer to break down and is just better all around
Hey Matt. I have a question for you- I read about a guy who uses his stinging nettle plants soaked in water for three days to spray his plants with-keeps away insects and feeds the plants. So I soaked the remains of my nettle crop, had to unexpectedly go away for a while, came back and there where small white fat wormies on the edge of the water, about 1cm long. So I just put the airated lid back on +left it there in the 20gallon tub, hoping they'd disintegrate or something. It's been exactly a year now. What do I do with this stuff??
Where is that upcoming Elaine Ingham Webinar link
Just write her Name in YOU TUBE
I was reading a Bill Mollisons permaculture designer pamphlet and he mentioned the typical compost pile is counter productive as the heat generated is energy being lost to atmosphere. He states he’d rather just add the material under mulch and let the soil absorb/break it down. Thoughts?
80s concepts of compost were mixed - sometimes it helped and sometimes it hurt. There's a reason I had to update Bill's work - it's based on older science. If you balance your materials properly, you avoid losing a lot of nutrients and the pile does not shrink a ton. In addition, if you add EM you can transform the nitrogenous elements in the compost into amino acids and compost at a lower temperature losing less heat energy and less N and C into the air. You'd like my courses I think - my work is the first peer reviewed permaculture textbook series EVER and the first cited since Bill's 1989 work which is on some level is WILD that no one has done the work to update things, but that's why I do what I do and work with hundreds of experts all over the world.
There is actually a difference between worm castings and Vermicompost! Thanks to the people at Build a Soil in the no till indoor cannabis community I was made aware of this!
Worm castings are simply vegetables that have been passed through worms, and are pretty good.
Vermicompost is finished compost often sourced from a vast array of materials including wood, bark, manure, or even worm castings that has been passed through a worm. Which is much better, apparently.
But if you want to turn worm castings to vermicompost you have to put your worm castings in your compost pile first. Because worms do not like living in extremely high concentrations of their own wastes.
Most vermicompost is made out of only vegetable from the kitchen because they lack weed seeds. Since worms cannot digest weed seeds it makes no sense to geed them anything but what comes from the kitchen, hence to me, vermicompost is always worm castings when a finished product ;)
Vermicompost is not half thermophilic - it's just worm castings ;) you can make it out of whatever you want, but it's still castings ;)
Ok so I have gone and looked now.
The people in the no till cannabis community (these people are pioneering the idea of a fully functioning soil food web utilizing raised beds indoors) seem to think there is a difference.
Now that I look at some of the descriptions of the commercially available products I am even more confused. This makes me glad that I raise worms at home haha!
Either way, depending on the company and the product, the definition of worm castings and vermicompost seems to vary greatly.
I understand what thermophillic compost is compared to other types though. Not that I have experience with it, I tried to put together my first thermophilic compost pile last season and it is mostly decomposed now, but I thought it would be much faster, I just have a lot to learn I guess.
Vermicompost creates the castings that regular earworms eat in our garden soil, which is fascinating.
Totally different types of worms. Compost worms live jn the top few inches in organic matter that is decomposing. Also depends on the area you live in, north or south. Earthworms although they may move up into a pile if it rains, will leave once again if it becomes hot. Earthworms live deep into the soil. They eat the castings of compost worms that live under the top layers of decaying material. Which is why they only come up if it rains too much and floods, as well as I've noticed they like to lay their egg cases in the first few inches of soil in very moist areas, especially after a rain, but thats where the hatched worms woukd find the castings left in that top layer from composting worms that have broken down leaves or whatever in the dirt or your compost pile. That's why you can't really throw a composting worm into your garden, it won't survive unless you do a buried small can eith holes drilled in it and put moist food scraps and damp bedding material in it and keep it watered around that area, keep it covered, and out of the sun. You can put composting worms into a compost pile if it is a cold compost pile with tunes with holes drilled for aeration, and if you have the outer ring or structure covered in a breathable material to ensure no loss of air or loss of moisture and if the pile is comprised of mostly decayed woody material, like OLD CHIPPED UP OR squishy broken down wood such as old branches that are easy to break apart with your hands, with maybe a mix of cow or especially horse manure, (horse manure must be throughly rinsed with rain water or hose to ensure all ammonia is gone, as the worms won't move in until it's drained away and started to break down. But ya red wigglers love horse manure compost piles.) So you can add red wigglers or whatever type of vermivompost worm that can withstand your climate in a cold compost pile that stays moist and has oxygen, and only uses woody aged materials, rotted broken down limbs or aged wood chips and horse manure or cow manure (cow manure is sterile it also attracts compost worms, once it's been rained on or sprayed down to start the decomposition. And it's an excellent food source for the worms. Spent coffee grounds that again are aged and rinsed, are a good food and bedding for compost worms in the cold pile too. Could use it to create warm spots in the pile for the warms to survive winter as well if you had enough in an area.
Question at an Asian market i got a packet of seeds called "Zeng freshly " what is it please help tell me
Sorry "Zheng freshly"
Did u grow it?
I want to know if you grew it also
bump
Update?
I still don't understand how to get this compost thing going. I have a compost tumbler that I bought and I put kitchen scraps in. It gets super hot here in the summer, I am in West Texas the lower Panhandle of West Texas. It's hot and dry here and so either the compost is dried out or... No it's just dried out.
Water it! Regularly! Add some browns and greens in addition to the scraps. Fallen leaves and grass clippings are the most readily available. Add at a 1 to 1 ration. You don't want standing water in your bin, but you definitely want moisture present all the time.
It must stay moist. You're growing it just like a plant.
Oh how i wish I could have won!
If you come to India please come to our community and help us here !
If you like this sort of thing, then you may LOVE my online course:
www.thepermaculturestudent.com/course-signup/permaculturegardening
Jairo use wood ash or rock dust , EM and molases to cover the seeds .... let dry and store like a KFC chiken ....😁
AMAZING!!!
I can’t wait to hear Elaine real story
💕💕💕💕💕🤗
Haha!!! 9:08
Love You TEAM POWERS 🤎☯️🤎💝🤎👣🦠🫀🪶😂😂😂🦋🏋🏻♂️🤎🤎🤎🤎🤎😍😍😍