I love how you make your handles out of local harvested wood like me. I love seeing your whole process including the woodwork. A true craftswork in it's entirety.
Thanks John for a marvelous video. This, I guess, is my first time viewing. You've always shown me and maybe others, that you pull off the topic that shows courage.
Great lessons for all of us! We all learned something about metal work, wood work,....and about how to own and learn from your approaches in both! Thank you
Hi John last week my grandson complained when I made him use a hand drill and not the bench drill . So I sat him down and let him watch this video , he told me he will never complain again . And John really enjoy watching you work in the wood shop ,but the down fall is the mess it makes . :)
I know this is a blacksmithing channel but it looks like you're a pretty decent woodsmith as well. No complaints if you include your skills with wood for us to enjenjoy and learn a thing or two.
I really like those old tools, I’ve been wanting to make one of those myself for wooden shoe making. There are some really good videos here on RUclips of people making old time wooden shoes using old spoon gouges and it’s a good reference to the kinds of handles they use like the one you made. Just thought I’d share, keep up the good work.
That tendon on the end you left out is to fit into a dent on a plate that straps to your chest. The two part handle is so you can use the bow drill bow with it.
I'm going to try to copy , John Switzer I always love you as a teacher and You Tube Professor of Black Smith and a love the person you come across as. Thanks for fine videos and digging up so many interesting builds.
Wowsers that turned out very unique and beautiful. Hopefully it gets great use out of it. Beautiful job there. Can't wait to see ur next videos and next project plans. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work John. Always love watching and learning from your videos. Forge On. Keep Making. God Bless.
I don't know if you have ash trees around where you live, but they make great tool handles, and are historically accurate. If you end up needing to replace the handle, it might be a good choice.
As to sharpening the interior edge, a series of sandpaper on a wood block shaped to get into the edges will get you extremely sharp, even if it isn't period accurate.
Beautiful piece there. I like seeing your well-rounded skills. Thanks for sharing with us! It really is too bad the birch split. Even with the split, it is a real pretty handle.
Well, John, where I live skunks raccoons possums cyotye cougars extra are lucky Like birds, there are an endless supply of them and I've learned to live along with them. I do use corn and olive oil for quenching. I just lock my bucket. But then I don't have bears here. Of course I also have a sacrificial feed pan I have for the barn cat that all them critters go too. I also have coniber 330's set to take care of the more aggressive animal. The occasional badger or wolverine can be troubling. But overall, I don't have any problem unsung food grade quenching oil.
Hello John Great work for the tool i try this out because have a work shop from my grandfather He build wodden wheels and coachen and Waggons out of wood And there are Gigant Tools like yours They used it with a breastplate to push the Löffelbohrer or spoondrill In . They all have no leading pins I think they drill a guide hole and than the bore the holes to the diameter they need The Handels were like the one you showed First. Take care have a good new week Greetings Frank Galetzka
I think you give it one revolution clockwise then another counter clockwise and a shaving pops out that creates a divot. Then you send it and a single shaving starts climbing out, if your bit is perfectly symmetrical and its blades angle of attack are good. I think drilling a pilot hole is historical revisionism. Like you say "how did a blacksmith in the renaissance make this hole?" and the answer is with a machinists lathe. Although that might work. The guys in the renaissance didnt have a machining lathe. They had a spoon drill and maybe some hot coals to burn a hole. Im really trying to figure out what went wrong here and where the blades angle of attack is incorrect and I think its when he said "the inside of this really doesnt matter" When the blade is more like a hand plane with an angle on the inside then a flat on the outside. So youre just taking away material from the outside after you establish the blade angle from the inside. At least thats what Im seeing on other spoon bit forgings that worked. But yeah, If youre drilling a hole big enough to any depth its not going to be cheap so this really activated my almonds like the 345 carpenters trick. Ive also been pondering lately how close with one another the blacksmith and carpentry guild had to be with one another. they where either in extreme levels of correspondence, my best friend or possibly the same guy at times. Oh yeah, speaking of pilot holes, What you can do is put your finger ring around the tools shaft and if the ring starts walking up or down the shaft Your angle is off. Beyond using the 345 rule to obtain square.
Very nicely made apart from the ones I have seen don't have a handle there are used the same as a drill auger which has a horizontal wooden handle that just fits over the top 3 inch which is square and they would have been sharpened from the inside so as not to lose to much of the metal making it smaller ever time it was sharpened
You're definitely going to need to reach out to that Black Bear quenching oil company. I'm sure they'd love to send you a couple gallons just because it'd be fun to do. Great video as always!
If you get cracks in your wood and its practical. I use wood glue, wood glue and sawdust or water putty all the time to glue wood when it cracks apart completely or I'm just filling a crack. All of those are touted as being stronger than the original wood. Another thing you can do is burn fitting or burning in a handle. Another thing is the geometry of a cutting tool. I just learned this trying to make taps and dies from nuts and bolts. More than a half a circle gives a cutting blade, an exact half a circle gives a cutting blade. Less that half a circle is no good as the blades are too shallow and might press a thread but wont cut one. Its important to consider how a blade attacks the wood in angles of attack. Both taps and dies and spoon bits are available precision machined so you can take a look at the angles of attack there by looking up a picture. As well as learning how to start a hole with a spoon drill. It looks like the angle of attack of the tip and walls are important.
Another possibility is that the iron ring may have been left loose on the shaft to aid in keeping the hole level as it's bored. I've seen a wedding ring used with a brace for that purpose. Place the ring in the middle of the shaft and if it tilts one way or the other, the ring will travel downhill.
Spoon drills are often a little more pointy not do round nosed to make an easier start , the cutting side should be longer and backside edge flattened so cutting edge digs in
Recently the YT channel TA Outdoors went to Alec Steele ( Alex? ) and had an auger bit made that seems to be the next stage in portable wood drill bits from this. They have both uploaded a video about the forging of this. A twisted shank to lift the shavings, screw tip to pull the blade into the wood and a pair of cutting edges similar to a modern drill bit. The unique part really, the shank goes to the cuff you put any handy bit of branch through to provide a t handle for using it. You only have to carry / store a single straight bit of metal.
I've had pretty good luck quenching in peanut oil. It has a higher flash point than most vegetable oils. Critters don't seem much interested in it once you have used it to quench a couple of times.
Any new updates on this tool? You talked about changing the angle of the bits cutting edge in the video. Was thinking of trying to make one myself and you give easy to follow instruction, just want sure if there was something further that you found out after you did this video.
I'm new to your channel and as a beginner you have helped me understand a lot, thanks. One question for now, what method do you use to warm your anvil?
Love your Channel John. It appears you are using the draw knife with the bevel up? If so, flip it over. They are meant to cut and be controlled bevel down.
Bevel up with the flat back against the work gives better results for longer straight cuts while bevel down is better for concave surfaces. Drawknife handles are set to work best in one orientation or the other.
Historically, helical auger bits were much more difficult to manufacture than spoon bits, but that doesn't mean that a skilled and knowledgeable pre-industrial blacksmith couldn't make one. You can well imagine that a Norse jarl who could afford to build ships to go a-viking could also afford to employ a blacksmith capable of making an auger bit, even if it took weeks for them to get it right. One person with an auger bit could start holes for a dozen people using spoon bits, and could continue to do so throughout the day as long as the blacksmith was available to sharpen the auger properly.
It may cut better to have more relief on the back side instead of removing material from inside the curve. I think the shape you currently have is more like a cold chisel instead of a wood chisel, if that makes sense.
the additives and impurities in motor oil can actually alter the makeup of the steel slightly, at least in theory, so it can have unpredictable results. While all smoke is bad for you, those same additives in motor oil make it even worse to have in the shop.
I love how you make your handles out of local harvested wood like me. I love seeing your whole process including the woodwork. A true craftswork in it's entirety.
Thanks John for a marvelous video. This, I guess, is my first time viewing. You've always shown me and maybe others, that you pull off the topic that shows courage.
Great lessons for all of us! We all learned something about metal work, wood work,....and about how to own and learn from your approaches in both! Thank you
Hi John last week my grandson complained when I made him use a hand drill and not the bench drill .
So I sat him down and let him watch this video , he told me he will never complain again .
And John really enjoy watching you work in the wood shop ,but the down fall is the mess it makes . :)
I know this is a blacksmithing channel but it looks like you're a pretty decent woodsmith as well.
No complaints if you include your skills with wood for us to enjenjoy and learn a thing or two.
I really like those old tools, I’ve been wanting to make one of those myself for wooden shoe making. There are some really good videos here on RUclips of people making old time wooden shoes using old spoon gouges and it’s a good reference to the kinds of handles they use like the one you made. Just thought I’d share, keep up the good work.
That tendon on the end you left out is to fit into a dent on a plate that straps to your chest. The two part handle is so you can use the bow drill bow with it.
Felt like I was watching Roy Underhill for awhile there!
A very well put together video. I like the pace and timing you have in your explanations.
Thank you kindly!
I'm going to try to copy ,
John Switzer I always love you as a teacher and You Tube Professor of Black Smith and a love the person you come across as.
Thanks for fine videos and digging up so many interesting builds.
Great "2 part" video John. 👍
I learn something new every time I view one. Thx for sharing.
Wowsers that turned out very unique and beautiful. Hopefully it gets great use out of it. Beautiful job there. Can't wait to see ur next videos and next project plans. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work John. Always love watching and learning from your videos. Forge On. Keep Making. God Bless.
As a woodworker that does some blacksmith work, I love this type of content.
I don't know if you have ash trees around where you live, but they make great tool handles, and are historically accurate. If you end up needing to replace the handle, it might be a good choice.
Love the project! Some crubber glued on the inside of your bench vise jaws will make you happy.
Много посмотрел ваших видео,и для себя научился,вы профессионал своего дела
Awesome!
Another great tool that will be useful for generations. 🙂
Great video.
Top stuff John. Looks great.
Thanks for sharing with us John. You’ll get it done. Fred.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
U got great woodworking skills too Sir. Handle look cool.wooden vice was awesome.great video enjoyed a lot👍👍🔥🔥🔥
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome John, very cool indeed
Fascinatingwork. Would love to see more of it. Thanks for sharing.
As to sharpening the interior edge, a series of sandpaper on a wood block shaped to get into the edges will get you extremely sharp, even if it isn't period accurate.
Very neat project! I have an old shopsmith 10e, 1947 vintage. I wouldn't mind a video or two on wood turning tool making. :) Thanks!
Beautiful piece there. I like seeing your well-rounded skills. Thanks for sharing with us! It really is too bad the birch split. Even with the split, it is a real pretty handle.
I love this project, it's great!
Glad you like it!
Even though it may not have turned out the way you hoped I really appreciate the experimental archeological!
That's a good looking auger John, and you did a really nice job on the handle, too bad it split.
Great video, I like you using a brace on the smaller one. Enjoyed. cheers!
Thanks John, went back and looked up your videos on draw knifes, I have a piece of leaf spring that I think has draw knife written on it.
Possibly needs more of a leading edge. looks great and kind of works, just a bit of fine tuning. Thank you for sharing John.
Well, John, where I live skunks raccoons possums cyotye cougars extra are lucky
Like birds, there are an endless supply of them and I've learned to live along with them. I do use corn and olive oil for quenching. I just lock my bucket. But then I don't have bears here. Of course I also have a sacrificial feed pan I have for the barn cat that all them critters go too. I also have coniber 330's set to take care of the more aggressive animal. The occasional badger or wolverine can be troubling. But overall, I don't have any problem unsung food grade quenching oil.
The 2.0 version should be interesting to compare with first iteration. Cool series here possibly? Great idea John.✌
Hello John
Great work for the tool i try this out because have a work shop from my grandfather
He build wodden wheels and coachen and Waggons out of wood
And there are Gigant Tools like yours
They used it with a breastplate to push the Löffelbohrer or spoondrill
In .
They all have no leading pins
I think they drill a guide hole and than the bore the holes to the diameter they need
The Handels were like the one you showed First.
Take care have a good new week
Greetings
Frank Galetzka
Good information, thank you for sharing
I think you give it one revolution clockwise then another counter clockwise and a shaving pops out that creates a divot. Then you send it and a single shaving starts climbing out, if your bit is perfectly symmetrical and its blades angle of attack are good. I think drilling a pilot hole is historical revisionism. Like you say "how did a blacksmith in the renaissance make this hole?" and the answer is with a machinists lathe. Although that might work. The guys in the renaissance didnt have a machining lathe. They had a spoon drill and maybe some hot coals to burn a hole. Im really trying to figure out what went wrong here and where the blades angle of attack is incorrect and I think its when he said "the inside of this really doesnt matter" When the blade is more like a hand plane with an angle on the inside then a flat on the outside. So youre just taking away material from the outside after you establish the blade angle from the inside. At least thats what Im seeing on other spoon bit forgings that worked.
But yeah, If youre drilling a hole big enough to any depth its not going to be cheap so this really activated my almonds like the 345 carpenters trick. Ive also been pondering lately how close with one another the blacksmith and carpentry guild had to be with one another. they where either in extreme levels of correspondence, my best friend or possibly the same guy at times.
Oh yeah, speaking of pilot holes, What you can do is put your finger ring around the tools shaft and if the ring starts walking up or down the shaft Your angle is off. Beyond using the 345 rule to obtain square.
Seen many tools of that kind here In Swedenborg with a Ring on top and Just put handle och thru it..
Very nicely made apart from the ones I have seen don't have a handle there are used the same as a drill auger which has a horizontal wooden handle that just fits over the top 3 inch which is square and they would have been sharpened from the inside so as not to lose to much of the metal making it smaller ever time it was sharpened
Amazing!
A 3" × 3" stick of red oak 8' long will last years stored inside.
You're definitely going to need to reach out to that Black Bear quenching oil company. I'm sure they'd love to send you a couple gallons just because it'd be fun to do.
Great video as always!
I tried once, they weren't interested
I bet it’s easier to get free gold.
If you get cracks in your wood and its practical. I use wood glue, wood glue and sawdust or water putty all the time to glue wood when it cracks apart completely or I'm just filling a crack. All of those are touted as being stronger than the original wood. Another thing you can do is burn fitting or burning in a handle. Another thing is the geometry of a cutting tool. I just learned this trying to make taps and dies from nuts and bolts. More than a half a circle gives a cutting blade, an exact half a circle gives a cutting blade. Less that half a circle is no good as the blades are too shallow and might press a thread but wont cut one. Its important to consider how a blade attacks the wood in angles of attack. Both taps and dies and spoon bits are available precision machined so you can take a look at the angles of attack there by looking up a picture. As well as learning how to start a hole with a spoon drill. It looks like the angle of attack of the tip and walls are important.
Another possibility is that the iron ring may have been left loose on the shaft to aid in keeping the hole level as it's bored. I've seen a wedding ring used with a brace for that purpose. Place the ring in the middle of the shaft and if it tilts one way or the other, the ring will travel downhill.
That would work well on a rotohammer! For those opal miners!
Spoon drills are often a little more pointy not do round nosed to make an easier start , the cutting side should be longer and backside edge flattened so cutting edge digs in
Very kool is that a draw horse
Recently the YT channel TA Outdoors went to Alec Steele ( Alex? ) and had an auger bit made that seems to be the next stage in portable wood drill bits from this.
They have both uploaded a video about the forging of this.
A twisted shank to lift the shavings, screw tip to pull the blade into the wood and a pair of cutting edges similar to a modern drill bit.
The unique part really, the shank goes to the cuff you put any handy bit of branch through to provide a t handle for using it. You only have to carry / store a single straight bit of metal.
I've had pretty good luck quenching in peanut oil. It has a higher flash point than most vegetable oils. Critters don't seem much interested in it once you have used it to quench a couple of times.
Great tip!
Vegetable oil burns onto the peice and gives a really neat black finish
Huge fan I learn so much thanks so much
Thanks for watching!
I love your hammer. I'm a bit curious, did you make it yourself? I haven't seen many like it.
That hammer was made by William Bastas
@@BlackBearForge Well he makes some pretty fine work
Any new updates on this tool? You talked about changing the angle of the bits cutting edge in the video. Was thinking of trying to make one myself and you give easy to follow instruction, just want sure if there was something further that you found out after you did this video.
The ring could be a fixture to help keep it in alignment while drilling horizontally, kind of how people do when drilling with a brace
I'm new to your channel and as a beginner you have helped me understand a lot, thanks. One question for now, what method do you use to warm your anvil?
Love your Channel John. It appears you are using the draw knife with the bevel up? If so, flip it over. They are meant to cut and be controlled bevel down.
Bevel up with the flat back against the work gives better results for longer straight cuts while bevel down is better for concave surfaces. Drawknife handles are set to work best in one orientation or the other.
Historically, helical auger bits were much more difficult to manufacture than spoon bits, but that doesn't mean that a skilled and knowledgeable pre-industrial blacksmith couldn't make one. You can well imagine that a Norse jarl who could afford to build ships to go a-viking could also afford to employ a blacksmith capable of making an auger bit, even if it took weeks for them to get it right. One person with an auger bit could start holes for a dozen people using spoon bits, and could continue to do so throughout the day as long as the blacksmith was available to sharpen the auger properly.
It may cut better to have more relief on the back side instead of removing material from inside the curve. I think the shape you currently have is more like a cold chisel instead of a wood chisel, if that makes sense.
I wonder if the small ones might have been used with a bow like a bow drill fire starting setup.
Possibly.
Sorry about the handle, but what a great looking piece!
maybe stabilizing this handle?
Approximately what temperature do you heat your quenching oil up to??
200 - 300 ish
I'm a little late to the comments but, I'm wondering if this would/could have been used as a bow drill.
Seems unlikely in this style of bit
the birch seems a bit moldy, thats probably why its soft.
To bad about the handle. But i like the project.
👍🤙
Would that be a foot clamp used for holding wood
Shaving horse
@@BlackBearForge awesome thanks for the info
how different is quenching oil then motor oil?
the additives and impurities in motor oil can actually alter the makeup of the steel slightly, at least in theory, so it can have unpredictable results. While all smoke is bad for you, those same additives in motor oil make it even worse to have in the shop.
What happened to the first part of the video?
I'm not sure, but here is the link ruclips.net/video/YAKEZPSE0HA/видео.html
It was kind of nice to see that the handle didn't work because things always work so nice in your shop but not in mind
Who the hell says something like that?
"I'm glad you failed" Seriously dude?
I bet the tenon on the handle went into a wooden brest plate hole so it stayed in one place
Olive oil will go rancid and has a low smoke point. Doesn't seem like a sensible idea to me...
Job's a good'n
Pleasee maan make forging tuatahi racing stile axe
First