Highly Efficient Drywall Tools!
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- Опубликовано: 2 ноя 2023
- Dusting off the Columbia Flatboxes to see how they do!
Here's some tools you might need:
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TapeBudy Mixit: amzn.to/3O3b5hN
Tapebuddy: amzn.to/46WDA9E Here’s a video for using the tape buddy: • How to use the Tape Buddy
The BEST mudpan EVER! amzn.to/44BPbZZ
4 inch knife: amzn.to/43CgnXr
6 inch knife: amzn.to/3O1XUOi
Hawk: amzn.to/3DqxMaK
Some nice 12x5 Trowels:
amzn.to/3Q80MLX
amzn.to/3OowbZr
amzn.to/3pSlTaG
Corner Roller: amzn.to/3Dpb8j2
Tape Holder: amzn.to/3Ya0vu3 
Хобби
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Your humility is refreshing. Another enjoyable video! Cheers from another 41 yr old. ha!
My father started using finishing tools back in the sixties. He taught me how to use a 7” box for first coat and skip the 10” box and go right to the 12” box. Been using this process for over 35 years and makes for a flatter finish! No need for a 10” box! And it’s easier on your back.
My tip is to learn to box on stilts and get an extension handle if it's in your cards (wallet).
Mediums (24" to 40") stilts mean a whole a job of 12' lids can be done off them with the boxes.
This is more of a general statement though. Be comfortable with boxes and very much so with stilts.
As you can see in the video, running the box is by feel, but you also pretty much have to look at the box.
You have to apply a certain amount of pressure in a certain way, and have to move at a certain speed. Starting and stopping can leave imperfections.
Usually on a decent job, among the tapers they all know to stay out of the way of the guy boxing. Even on the ground it's easy to trip over crap while boxing.
So stilts are even more so risky (but if you've watched Vancouver Carpenters stilts video you know).
But it speeds the job up significantly and on long joints, you can just go. No hoping down to move and lock your scaffold. Just run, step high, and glance down fast every 3 feet to make sure nothings in your way.
And getting up in age and thinking to box rather than hand coat. Depending on genetics, it can do a number on your shoulders (learned from the other/older guys). With the opportunity, box a few decent jobs, if your shoulder really starts to have issues, I'd either hand coat or take smaller jobs. Solely finishing (taping) for work you have to box. If you do decide to go the boxing route when you do do drywall, try picking up an angle box and angle head. No more one siding or using a corner trowel. Just box and pick angles.
I know you're a pro Ben and have been watching you for quite some time (not in a weird way ha), and for a carpenter, you're a great drywaller (actually probably have a wider range of experience than me, after 5 years, jobs I've been on always go about the same way with some minor differences here and there, also wasn't exclusively a taper. Hanger, insulator, steel framer, but really considered a laborer for a year or so, but I'd, ya know, be pushed to do this and that. Started in 2017, learned a lot from your channel and thanks to you was able to get by enough to learn from the old timers).
Thanks. Lots of great info in your comment. I’m definitely not looking to do more taping and most of my jobs really still are too small to use them. This job was too small to use them but it had been a while and I wanted to try them again.
We do lots of large jobs, the amount of money this saves us is incredible. Even if i need to wipe behind the odd one with a knife, its for sure 1/2 the time hand coating. Especially for 9ft ceilings
Any thoughts on brands? Vevor is selling a flat box for about $70, and that doesn't sound right.
@@nefariousyawn Northstar, tape tech, level 5. A good box should cost 400-500
@@carverdahlin2728 thanks!
I like seeing all the random work sites, on your channel.
That means he's really really good I guess 😀
Moving to boxes was a game changer for me.
I prefer doing the joints & screws and after that the entire surface, that way there's no way joints would ever become visible under any circumstances
I've always wondered how those things work. I do more painting than drywall but that looks like a great tool. Thanks Ben✌️
this thing just looks like its way too complicated to use/clean etc, and it's only good for joints. The way I figure it's laziness plus it may very well be even harder to work with this clumsy crazy tool than a good set of stainless pro knives
I wonder just how heavy this thing is fully loaded with mud...
I bet it's heavy af.
I mean if you really have like miles and miles of joints, maybe..
@@smokeydiamond489 Yeah, good for those days that you can't make it to the gym.😄 I wonder how much it costs, it seems like it would be good for a huge job. Otherwise, a pan and some good knives would be more efficient, or a hawk and trowel. I usually use a pan.
The regular boxes are not heavy for any one who can hang and finish drywall .
If you are a good hand taper you can pick up using boxes in a couple hours no problem.and a box isn't any harder to clean that a pan . Myself I get better results than I do with my knives much faster but I have seen alot of guys that can Cruze with just a p&k or h&t really
I would love to have seen you coat a few butt joints with the box. The flats seem self explanatory enough. Thanks for the video!
Nice job! Yes the boxes definitely have a learning curve but they can’t be beat for medium to large jobs. Keep it up you’ll get them figured out quickly.
I bought the Columbia set and love it. I only do small jobs but still break them out when I can. Ive removed one spring, don’t let the wheels touch and am going switch over to the inside track conversion. Really can’t wait to see where you go with yours. Always enjoyable, Thanks Ben!!
Thanks Ed 🙂
What’s the inside track conversion
@@zohebthayer switches the wheels from outside to inside the box edge
Love to see a trade show in the building industry of new things for builders with Vancouver carpenter's opinions and ratings. Nice mudder with explanations.
love the mud boxes and corner tools, saves a LOT of time on large jobs.
Even though the boxes do a great job and are much faster, nothing gave me more personal pleasure than running mud by hand though. That was how I learned in the first place.
I was not expecting the skateboarder I watch on RUclips to pop up in this category. Hell yeah
thanks for your help keep up the good work
The boxes work very well and leave less porous spots on the surface if you box each coat
🕊️🕊️🕊️ @7:03! Or perhaps more like seagulls. LOL
6:39 Screw these goddamn peasants making me set up cameras lmao
😂
short handle can make your work easy
Great information.😊😊
I would love to see you do a full play list of hanging and taping with your semi-automatic tools. I know you’ve done it before but consider it a re-boot.
Someone shared your videos in a group and I'm addicted even though i have no need to learn this drywall/plaster stuff😂...
I find plaster walls interesting...wasnt even sure their difference to drywall..now i know😂
every suggested video on instagram for anyone who does finishing work
If 2 coating with new 10+12 boxes , let the dialed setting total 6. I.e 3+3, 2+4, 1+5. ....ending on 5 gives the most beautiful skim coat . I 3 box with 8 (3) , 10 (4) and 12 (1).
Cool method 👍
I got one a few years ago, and I found it is a bit too much of a workout for a senior citizen. I have not used it since.
I been using boxes for a few years now, but the size of the job matters if it's used or not
At 10:28 you answered a question I’ve always wondered about you and the channel. Don’t get me wrong I feel your pain
You do a lot of taping jobs and i haven’t seen you use stilts those are a must for a taper in my opinion, and also i have a festool planex and my catches all the dust i see a lot of dust falling from yours
Hes used them before.
Hi Ben just wondering what grit sandpaper you use for final sanding
I mean, how do you clean all this complex gear after work? The mud pump, all the boxes, must be hell, and if you don't you can pretty much throw it all out the next morning, don't know, maybe u leave it in water or something
Hey Ben, an off topic question about painting. How would i size my roller for a thicker paint.
I'm planning on using a stucco elastomeric paint for my garage walls to waterproof them a little better and hide alot of imperfections in the drywall finish. How would i size the pile on my rollers for a thicker paint and a thicker coating. Would i need to go up in side or use a standard roller and put on multiple coats
Do you have a vacuum on that sander? Looks like a snowstorm underneath🥌
Do away with your six buy some no pock grab your bye the box and handle. You need the short quick handle, works great for small areas especially working on scaffolding.?
What's the cleanup process on it like? Easy? Not so easy?
U got a great channel
Letsgo big BEN! 👏👏👏👏👏
Bro, it would be dope if you made a video but from the 80's.
Have you experimented to see if machine mud makes a difference?
No need for springs unless you’re a rookie. You could do everything except butt joints on two. Keep your box oiled especially in a dry climate.
How do you shimmy across the floor by rocking two wheels off the ground when the wheels are locked !
You are using the planex 2 correctly to get the best sand you literally have to dance with it as you did😂
Is a flatbox easy to clean?
how are people still taping by hand 😂
Do you need to thin down the mud at all for this?
Yes
Can you use these flat boxes on butt joints?
Yes first- side by side on the tape , 2nd coat down the middle. Skim out if needed
Ben, was hoping you could explain the logic from an experienced finishers perspective why when using a flusher or angle head, corner tapes only need to be coated ~3" wide on each side to hide the tape (and it looks good) vs a typical butt joint, which needs at least 10-12" on each side of tape? Why can corner tapes be coated so much less but still look good?
Because corners don't need to look flat, you're only looking at them from one side and they don't cast shadows. The reason you do wide joints is to spread out humps so far that they look flat.
@@ssl3546 Makes sense, thank you!
@@Tekagi Makes total sense, thank you for the detailed explanation.
Why sand between boxes? Do find it really makes that much difference? I never do it because I find the dust can clump and drag in the mud. Why not just sand at the end? Honest question.
@@Tekagi ya I usual only scrape
In some areas the tool works good, in some areas you have to triple-pass. Is it really worth the cost and effort?
Absolutely
yes
If you’re a true pro taper doing new housing and commercial then YES they all use these since you could buy a box. If you only do patches, remodels, or small jobs then no. The best pros still hand coat patches.
Man those canadian electrical boxes look really messy, european circular ones seem more neat
would like to see a comparison between the Festool Planex 2 and Wen version or other types of knockoffs. Festool is an eye watering $1900 CDN and the Wen is $225. Interested in seeing the ease and difference and whether the Festool is worth 6x the price
Festool is always with the dust collection, but i have the wen and there is virtually no dust when you use it right
I have the dewalt, I run it with a regular shop vac with a bag and it works great. At a fraction of the cost on my preferred battery platform.👍
does this thing work on bas**rd joints too?
but seriously, i enjoy watching all your videos
🙏👏👍💪
Shrinkage
Perhaps a time saver if you're doing this all the time and doing large areas, to me it looks a bit awkward and heavy to use and a time intensive cleanup. Wonder if you end up with tennis or golfers elbow as you have hold it at strange unbalanced angles. I do like your sanding apparatus, effortless and no dust, I think that is more value in buying
No, no tennis elbow from these. You'll get that from screwing and hauling drywall for sure tho. That's how I got it