0:17 Finding a service manual for your receiver & overview of the manual 15:00 Capacitors in the audio path - some notes and tips 23:25 Replacing some of the capacitors 37:03 Identifying some of the problematic transistors 41:05 Choosing a replacement transistor and making sure they will work. 43:44 Replacing the transistors - Some soldering tips
I am no youngster and I have been in medical instrumentation maintenance for over 40 years. This video is presented well and I have learned some stuff, thank you Tony. I have also subscribed.
As always, Tony, we greatly appreciate you teaching us! I like the flashlight trick, to find the cap. I wonder if a cheap laser pointer might show through more exactly and brightly? This is a funny thought, but maybe no joke, if your cat knows the sound of you picking up your laser (mine does,) watch out. You don't want your cat diving into your project. Once I find the pins, on the back of the board, I mark them with a Sharpie. Even though it is a "permanent" marker, the ink washes away with isopropyl alcohol, instantly. I understand that you suggested the wiggle method for removing the caps, because you can't access the pins, on top of the board. But, for the transistors, I suggest that you simply cut the pins and remove the head, before desoldering the pins. Then, you can desolder each pin, singly, which is a little easier to deal with. I know that you know this, but I am stating it for the folks that are just learning, which is whom the series is intended to teach.
I appreciate you taking time to do these videos. My dad use to be a computer engineer for Univac when I was growing up, he'd repair tv's and stuff. I wish I would have learned more from him. I never thought I'd need to learn much about electronics, of course I thought running around was more important.
Hi Tony! Great video! A tip to help in orienting capacitors is to place a mark on the capacitor with a permanent marker, before removing it, facing toward the front of the equipment being serviced. That way you can always go back with the original capacitor to verify its orientation.
Good sir... I just want to express gratitude for taking the time to record and share your knowledge. I'm preparing to get into the restoration of an sx-3500 (the one with the terrible breaking plastic switches), which I'm treating as practice for the future restoration of a Marantz 2275 and the information you're giving is helping to solidify things I knew, things I thought I knew, and things I didn't know I didn't know. Very helpful videos, much appreciated!
Greetings: Tip: use a sharpie to mark the component pins to be desoldered. The ink does not interfere with the desoldering. I would mark all of the components to be replaced first. Often the second channel will be in a similar layout to the first making the marking quicker. Also I use a black sharpie to show the negative end of the caps just in case the pcb markings are wrong.
The best videos on electronics, as always!. One comment tho; i think using de-soldering wick is a waste of perfectly good and valuable copper. There are tons of good de-soldering irons availlable.
I have found a laser pointer works well to locate the legs of a component on the solder side. Shine the beam on the side of the component of interest (just to its side) to pin-point its location at the solder joints.
Use a sharpie to mark one side on the tops of the old caps before you remove them. For instance, mark them on the side that faces the front of the receiver. Then you know which way the cap was installed.
The Sony Pre-amp (TA-2000f circa 1975) I re-built a few years ago was loaded with those little orange barrels. They were all replaced in the line-amp & tone stages with Wima or Kemet met-poly caps. I was lucky that most of caps were 4.7uf (25vdc) or smaller so the new caps fit nicely into the holes. However, the 10uf met-poly's are fat and expensive. So for the few 10uf caps I used Panasonic "audio-grade" electros. All from Mouser.
I'm a big fan of your vids Tony and I really enjoyed this one. One thing i'd suggest though is when you're showing pages from a manual etc can you keep them still please? It makes my head head spin trying to follow it.
HiFi Engine doesn't have my Claricon 27901 Quadraphonic Receiver available. But it's all single sided so it should be easy enough to trace through, especially since there's at least 2 to 3 good working channels. There's pretty much nothing out there on this unit. I did find an old ad from 1977 in the Pittsburgh Press stating it's 15 W/channel. It also seems that it was a Boscov's house brand. I hope to be cracking into it over one of the holiday weekends.
The left channel on mine is running hot. The resistors beside the fuse near the output transistors are running 20 degrees or so hotter than the right side, and there is distortion also.
Do you mind sharing the result here? I've discovered mine has burned terminals on the right channel emitter resister and the unit doesn't power on. Was it possible to replace the emitter resister on your left channel?
I still haven't got it fixed yet, but when I get a chance I'm going to do a recap. I had too much to do and it's still on the workbench. Mine powers on alright, but the left channel is distorted, and running hot, so I don't suspect anything major.@@matthewjohnson46
Flashlight trick: Tony your good (I don't care what your employees say about you) never thought of using a flashlight for board component location. Just kidding met your employees love you.
Hi again Tony, I appreciate of all your effort and videos and am actively watching as many as I can. Super glad for this series and type of video as I'm trying to develop skills in this area. Your tips as well as some in the comments are all great. I have a question on when you applied extra flux to the solder wick. If you only placed flux on one side of the wick - is that the side of the wick you laid on the board? Best Regards, Jack
Hi! I am a rooky on vintage amplifier, just wonder how hard is it to add a speaker relay on a Marantz 2226 receiver amp.? It would be gr this great if you can help, appreciate this!
Can you @xraytonyb or anyone here please share those old tables of "Gain Colors" from one or more major manufacturers from that era? That would be amazing! Thanks!
@@xraytonyb Thank you Tony! However, if you manage to find it, and it is likely that a few major manufacturers had their own gain values and color scheme, it would be amazing if you would be that kind and share that with all of us! Thanks a lot in advance, for that as well as for all your nice videos! Stay safe & take care!
Maybe a basic test to see if the couple capacitors need a recap: electrolyte's will not deteriorate at the same time. When you drive a signal through both channels, 20Hz, 5,0000Hz and 20,000Hz, you can judge if the outcome is equally at these six test moments, L, R, 20Hz, 5,000Hz and 20,000Hz. When one of them shows a decline, maybe you're up to a recap. Yes, you need equipment for that. Signal generator, and a scope or good voltmeter at the output.
Tony, may I ask what made you change your mind about using the film caps in the audio path? I did understand that right...you're still using film caps for values
It depends. First, check out the series I did after this one on the Pioneer SX-980. In that series, I tested the film capacitor (in the audio path) vs the low leakage electrolytics that are of the same type used in the original SX-980 design. After extensive testing, there was no measurable difference between the two. On the other hand, some reported in the comments that they are able to hear a difference between film caps and electrolytic. My hearing isn't that great, but I am also able (at least in some cases) to hear a difference, although I was unable to measure it with test equipment. My best description is that the film caps give the amp a slightly brighter sound. The bass and midrange is similar, however. As some have mentioned in the comments, ESR really doesn't make much difference when the audio capacitor is in series with a high impedance. A film capacitor has a much better loss tangent (almost perfect 90 degrees) when compared to an electrolytic (which can be less than 90 degrees). Again, this may or may not be a factor, but in electrolytics, this can vary with frequency, whereas film caps are very stable. Beyond all of this technobabble, film caps are very reliable, don't dry out or change with age and rarely if ever fail. In the end, it all comes down to preference. Sometimes I will replace the electrolytics with film and sometimes not. Some folks (myself included) can sometimes hear a difference, and some not. The best thing to do is experiment and make your own decision on what is the best choice after listening. Thanks for the comment!
Not all of the 2SA devices have this issue. 2SA726 is one transistor that has the "shot noise" issue. If you search on the AudioKarma website, I believe there are some folks there that listed some of the other transistors that are prone to failure. Thanks for the question!
I prefer printed paper as well. Yeah just what you need. Don't care about the warranty or all the cautions telling you not to water your plant over it etc. Or the back page telling you manual was printed in Japan.
put a strong light behind your work is a good idea makes it easier to find the components What about changing the hole through components for surface mount that should be better like the capacitors transistors What's the logic in that changing film capacitors to low leakage electrolytics you better off with the film capacitor don't understand what you've done that
You spend way too much emphasis on capacitors. Why bother testing them if their age concerns you, and you’re going to replace them anyways? Just shotgun them and be done with it if they are going to worry you so much? Most on youtube shotgun them anyways, as if all capacitors are a scourge.
0:17 Finding a service manual for your receiver & overview of the manual
15:00 Capacitors in the audio path - some notes and tips
23:25 Replacing some of the capacitors
37:03 Identifying some of the problematic transistors
41:05 Choosing a replacement transistor and making sure they will work.
43:44 Replacing the transistors - Some soldering tips
I am no youngster and I have been in medical instrumentation maintenance for over 40 years. This video is presented well and I have learned some stuff, thank you Tony. I have also subscribed.
As always, Tony, we greatly appreciate you teaching us!
I like the flashlight trick, to find the cap. I wonder if a cheap laser pointer might show through more exactly and brightly? This is a funny thought, but maybe no joke, if your cat knows the sound of you picking up your laser (mine does,) watch out. You don't want your cat diving into your project.
Once I find the pins, on the back of the board, I mark them with a Sharpie. Even though it is a "permanent" marker, the ink washes away with isopropyl alcohol, instantly.
I understand that you suggested the wiggle method for removing the caps, because you can't access the pins, on top of the board. But, for the transistors, I suggest that you simply cut the pins and remove the head, before desoldering the pins. Then, you can desolder each pin, singly, which is a little easier to deal with. I know that you know this, but I am stating it for the folks that are just learning, which is whom the series is intended to teach.
I appreciate you taking time to do these videos. My dad use to be a computer engineer for Univac when I was growing up, he'd repair tv's and stuff. I wish I would have learned more from him. I never thought I'd need to learn much about electronics, of course I thought running around was more important.
Hi Tony! Great video!
A tip to help in orienting capacitors is to place a mark on the capacitor with a permanent marker, before removing it, facing toward the front of the equipment being serviced. That way you can always go back with the original capacitor to verify its orientation.
Good sir... I just want to express gratitude for taking the time to record and share your knowledge. I'm preparing to get into the restoration of an sx-3500 (the one with the terrible breaking plastic switches), which I'm treating as practice for the future restoration of a Marantz 2275 and the information you're giving is helping to solidify things I knew, things I thought I knew, and things I didn't know I didn't know. Very helpful videos, much appreciated!
Greetings:
Tip: use a sharpie to mark the component pins to be desoldered. The ink does not interfere with the desoldering. I would mark all of the components to be replaced first. Often the second channel will be in a similar layout to the first making the marking quicker. Also I use a black sharpie to show the negative end of the caps just in case the pcb markings are wrong.
Tony, I love your videos - Thanks!
Tony,thank you for your videos i’ve learned a lot just watching them.so keep doing exactly whatyour doing it really works for me thanks again
The best videos on electronics, as always!. One comment tho; i think using de-soldering wick is a waste of perfectly good and valuable copper. There are tons of good de-soldering irons availlable.
I agree. I was just keeping things to a bare minimum on this one.
HiFi Engine isn't taking new accounts at the present?
Correct. Ppl keep recommending it but they haven’t taken new accounts for about two years. Currently, the best place to look is Electrotanya
I have found a laser pointer works well to locate the legs of a component on the solder side. Shine the beam on the side of the component of interest (just to its side) to pin-point its location at the solder joints.
Good tip! Thanks!
Thank you very much for your time and knowledge to make this great video, I have learned a lot.
Thanks your tutorial tony good for the learners
Use a sharpie to mark one side on the tops of the old caps before you remove them. For instance, mark them on the side that faces the front of the receiver. Then you know which way the cap was installed.
The Sony Pre-amp (TA-2000f circa 1975) I re-built a few years ago was loaded with those little orange barrels. They were all replaced in the line-amp & tone stages with Wima or Kemet met-poly caps. I was lucky that most of caps were 4.7uf (25vdc) or smaller so the new caps fit nicely into the holes. However, the 10uf met-poly's are fat and expensive. So for the few 10uf caps I used Panasonic "audio-grade" electros. All from Mouser.
Thank you for your videos tony
I'm a big fan of your vids Tony and I really enjoyed this one. One thing i'd suggest though is when you're showing pages from a manual etc can you keep them still please?
It makes my head head spin trying to follow it.
HiFi Engine doesn't have my Claricon 27901 Quadraphonic Receiver available. But it's all single sided so it should be easy enough to trace through, especially since there's at least 2 to 3 good working channels. There's pretty much nothing out there on this unit. I did find an old ad from 1977 in the Pittsburgh Press stating it's 15 W/channel. It also seems that it was a Boscov's house brand. I hope to be cracking into it over one of the holiday weekends.
Quad gear is a lot of fun to work with. I have a nice Fisher quad unit that will show up in a future video. Thanks for the comment!
The left channel on mine is running hot. The resistors beside the fuse near the output transistors are running 20 degrees or so hotter than the right side, and there is distortion also.
Do you mind sharing the result here? I've discovered mine has burned terminals on the right channel emitter resister and the unit doesn't power on. Was it possible to replace the emitter resister on your left channel?
I still haven't got it fixed yet, but when I get a chance I'm going to do a recap. I had too much to do and it's still on the workbench. Mine powers on alright, but the left channel is distorted, and running hot, so I don't suspect anything major.@@matthewjohnson46
In general US small signal transistors seems as the EBC pinout is more common and Asian transistors have the collector in the middle.
Flashlight trick:
Tony your good (I don't care what your employees say about you) never thought of using a flashlight for board component location. Just kidding met your employees love you.
Hi again Tony,
I appreciate of all your effort and videos and am actively watching as many as I can.
Super glad for this series and type of video as I'm trying to develop skills in this area.
Your tips as well as some in the comments are all great.
I have a question on when you applied extra flux to the solder wick.
If you only placed flux on one side of the wick - is that the side of the wick you laid on the board?
Best Regards,
Jack
What if you have no sound at all I have the exact same amp and no sound but it comes on
Hi! I am a rooky on vintage amplifier, just wonder how hard is it to add a speaker relay on a Marantz 2226 receiver amp.? It would be gr this great if you can help, appreciate this!
Can you @xraytonyb or anyone here please share those old tables of "Gain Colors" from one or more major manufacturers from that era? That would be amazing! Thanks!
I had them on a PDF file somewhere, but I can't find them anymore. I think different manufacturers used different color codes, but I'm not sure.
@@xraytonyb Thank you Tony! However, if you manage to find it, and it is likely that a few major manufacturers had their own gain values and color scheme, it would be amazing if you would be that kind and share that with all of us! Thanks a lot in advance, for that as well as for all your nice videos! Stay safe & take care!
Maybe a basic test to see if the couple capacitors need a recap: electrolyte's will not deteriorate at the same time. When you drive a signal through both channels, 20Hz, 5,0000Hz and 20,000Hz, you can judge if the outcome is equally at these six test moments, L, R, 20Hz, 5,000Hz and 20,000Hz. When one of them shows a decline, maybe you're up to a recap. Yes, you need equipment for that. Signal generator, and a scope or good voltmeter at the output.
Is there a list of known transistors that could be a problem for receivers?
There's a thread on AudioKarma.
@@eagle7267 Many thanks
Tony, may I ask what made you change your mind about using the film caps in the audio path? I did understand that right...you're still using film caps for values
It depends. First, check out the series I did after this one on the Pioneer SX-980. In that series, I tested the film capacitor (in the audio path) vs the low leakage electrolytics that are of the same type used in the original SX-980 design. After extensive testing, there was no measurable difference between the two. On the other hand, some reported in the comments that they are able to hear a difference between film caps and electrolytic. My hearing isn't that great, but I am also able (at least in some cases) to hear a difference, although I was unable to measure it with test equipment. My best description is that the film caps give the amp a slightly brighter sound. The bass and midrange is similar, however. As some have mentioned in the comments, ESR really doesn't make much difference when the audio capacitor is in series with a high impedance. A film capacitor has a much better loss tangent (almost perfect 90 degrees) when compared to an electrolytic (which can be less than 90 degrees). Again, this may or may not be a factor, but in electrolytics, this can vary with frequency, whereas film caps are very stable.
Beyond all of this technobabble, film caps are very reliable, don't dry out or change with age and rarely if ever fail. In the end, it all comes down to preference. Sometimes I will replace the electrolytics with film and sometimes not. Some folks (myself included) can sometimes hear a difference, and some not. The best thing to do is experiment and make your own decision on what is the best choice after listening. Thanks for the comment!
@@xraytonyb thanks for taking the time to answer my question so thoroughly Tony!
Hi Tony, the transistors your talking about 2SA726. Is it just that exact one or all 2SA transistors?
Not all of the 2SA devices have this issue. 2SA726 is one transistor that has the "shot noise" issue. If you search on the AudioKarma website, I believe there are some folks there that listed some of the other transistors that are prone to failure. Thanks for the question!
@@xraytonyb thank you
I prefer printed paper as well. Yeah just what you need. Don't care about the warranty or all the cautions telling you not to water your plant over it etc. Or the back page telling you manual was printed in Japan.
put a strong light behind your work is a good idea makes it easier to find the components
What about changing the hole through components for surface mount that should be better like the capacitors transistors
What's the logic in that changing film capacitors to low leakage electrolytics you better off with the film capacitor don't understand what you've done that
I actually share some of my thoughts on the film vs electrolytic caps on the next video I'm currently working on as of the time I'm writing this.
@@xraytonyb nice!
You spend way too much emphasis on capacitors. Why bother testing them if their age concerns you, and you’re going to replace them anyways? Just shotgun them and be done with it if they are going to worry you so much? Most on youtube shotgun them anyways, as if all capacitors are a scourge.
I usually just replace them, but many others are still learning, so I try to explain the reasoning behind replacing or not replacing them.
@@xraytonyb OK, that makes sense. Thank you.