Good move building it on the ground what most people don't think of is when it's on your roof and in 20 years when your shingles need to be changed or if your roof is leaking you need to remove every single panel and the rack for the repairs then have to put everything back on. On the ground its put it in and forget about it.
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
This is the best video I found yet on how to actually do it. Many people talk about solar but few show how to actually do it. Thank you sir for this very useful video.
Thanks Dave! I reached out to Linda and mentioned your name. Got a great price (.46pw) on 28 new Panasonic panels delivered. Linda was great to work with. Bought em! She had good used ones for .30 and .32pw, but opted for new. Thanks for your great videos!
I had the opportunity to meet Dave on a recent installation. He’s got a solid engineering/design background and I’m glad he’s making videos that truly benefit the DIY solar community.
I've been researching going solar+battery/off grid for a couple years, and the sheer amount of information out there is incredible because of people like you. This probably gave me the biggest dose of what to expect when setting something like this up, or something very similar. Thank you very much for showcasing this. :)
@@ProjectsWithDave Optimizers are mandatory ? i mean we already have MPPT in inverter then why go for these Optimizers ? Cost of Optimizers must be very high?
DC/DC optimizers like I used on my system are not worth the expense. I learned that later, here is a video on my analysis: ruclips.net/video/nC7i_GSrGlk/видео.html
Thanks for the great video. One trick for the conduit to avoid having to put all the rope through ahead of time (which is a pain and takes forever) is to put your conduit together, glue it, trench it, and cover it up. Then when you're ready to run your cables through, tie a little plastic bag or something to your rope or pull string and suck it through with a shop vac. I did this with a long run to a new barn and it took about 30 seconds. When I pulled the wire through, I also pulled more line/rope in case I ever want to use the conduit again for something else. Now I have the wire and a piece of vinyl pull rope in the conduit. Future proof!
That's a great idea! I actually used a wad of paper on the end of a string to run the line through the conduit in the garage, except I blew it through with compressed air. It worked great. Also, I ran a separate conduit parallel to the first to allow for future expansion without trenching next time.
Out of all of the videos regarding solar system installations, yours is definitely the most comprehensive and easy to follow. My only wish is to see one made equally as good as yours on an off grid system. It would also be nice to have you list the sourcing of the products you used and costs. The ground mount system really has me interested. Great job, no, fantastic job making this video!
You might want to check out Curtis Stone's channel if you haven't already. Lots of great info there on his off-grid system. ruclips.net/video/f1ZyZNRYezA/видео.html
Thank you soooooo much for sharing your experience!!! I just graduated from an engineering degree focused on solar energy, and this video showed me the real stuff I didn't learn from the class.
Having used tons of that weed mat, I've found instead of cutting X's for the post, to use a propane torch and burn a hole. It melts the edge and reduces fraying
I Like That Learning Curve When He Cut The Fabric!! He Had It Down By The Last One For Sure! I Think I Would Have Come Off The Middle Of The Array So I Did Not Have To Run A Long Negative! Also DC Drops Across Wire That Is Why The Cables On A Battery Are So Big! The Closer To The Battery Pack You Can Get The Better! The Main reason We Dont have DC Running In Our Homes! Great Video!
Hi David Very Impressive display of basic construction techniques, working with others, grid tie solar ground mount installation, but most of all, how to be a dad. Loved the video. I also have a SolarEdge grid tied system I installed in 2015. I had a whole house standby generator first so had to figure out how to wire them both so they would not try to work against each other. I also purchased my components from Wholesale (Unbound) Solar in Mt Shasta, CA. And like you, I didn't feel comfortable poking holes in my house roof, so mounted the panels on my barn roof instead. Thank you again for this. You, your son, chickens, and others, did outstanding work!
Very detailed and crisp video of the entire process of setting up a solar system at ground level. The best i have seen and i learned a lot. Thanks for sharing the video.
Solar is awesome. We got a 4kW system in 2015. Added another kW in 2017. I want more but I'm out of roof space hahah. I wish i had space for a ground mount system but there's no space in our tiny yard for it. You built a really nice system there. Great video.
THANK YOU for posting this. It's remarkably difficult to find something which lays out, step by step, what the process of installing a solar system includes.
Great video! I installed my own system too, but back in 2013 panel sizes were smaller! I chose Enphase micro inverters, which is similar to the Solar Edge DC option, but keeps it all AC, so no wall inverter is needed. My system paid for itself in less than 3 years, but I am pushing 20 kWh in full sun. My problem here is trees from all my close neighbors, where as you have no shading issues there. Thanks for showing people they can do it themselves! I remember there was little help when I did mine.
Very informative video. Keep up the good work. My wife has wanted to do this for a while and honestly, I felt like it would be too much money, but this is not bad. Plus after watching you install the panels and the panel, I believe that it is possible for me to do a self install. I have several friends who are really good with electrical systems. Thanks
Awesome video and work! If you ever have to run mule tape through conduit again, you can build out your conduit then tie a bag like Home Depot bag to the end of the mule tape and get on the other end with a shop vac and it'll suck it all the way through real fast. Makes it super fast and easy and the tape isn't in your way as your glueing everything together. If the connection between conduit and shop vac is leaking too much just wrap another HD bag around it and it'll seal it up.
I finally pulled the trigger on panels, working on the rest. I am also in Ohio and with the weather we have been getting I would like to reduce my reliance on the grid (initially grid tie but soon adding batteries). Thank you for the video!
Well done, thanks for the in depth description. I would suggest next time you delve into the AC connection, even if it's not supposed to be hot, you should remove your rings from your fingers.
Very helpful video..appreciate you taking the time to make it..I love how you took time at explaining things. Most of the time they run through things so fast , you can't keep up. Good job
Very good video. Very straightforward. I'm wondering why you didn't connect your panels in parallel. You would have more current out to run that distance to the house. Very clean build at any rate.
Thank you for uploading this! You were very thorough and I really appreciate the details. Great work, it looks much cleaner than what most installers you'd pay for would do. I'm looking into building a system with microinverters so thank you!
Excellent video. I have found that the white zip ties don't hold up to the UV. The black ones last longer. I like the idea of using the post hole borer. I didn't think of that.
@@ProjectsWithDave Thanks for the link. At least it is pretty easy to replace the zip ties if they fail. I expect that they will last several years though.
An easier way to deal with your fish tape is to tie a plastic bag to the end and use a vacuum cleaner to suck it through the conduit, that way you are not working around it while cementing the pvc together.
I would have a few batteries for a small amount of backup. I am assuming that inverter would allow feeding a charge controller or does it have that functionality built into it. Nice video btw.
The only battery charging my inverter does is EV charging, you can see that video here: ruclips.net/video/U2ilH8yOi7A/видео.html However, I am looking into some battery backup options. Thanks!
The cabling sizing must be calculated - peak current / length are the variables, max voltage drop generally should be just a few % depending on local codes, any pro would be doing this, perhaps not your average DIY'er who might go on recommendations on youtube comments.
The distance was less than 175'. There are two sets of 10 gauge wires (6mm^2), one for each string. Because the voltage is 480v the loss is actually very small. I calculated the revenue loss vs the cost of upgrading to 8 gauge wire 10mm^2), but the payoff was clearly not worth it.
Nice install. I don't really view my system in terms of long term "pay-back", I just try to save and then buy and install, and from then on its my own power independent of the Grid. Payback for me is obtained when the neighbors lights are all off and mine are still on. This can confuse the local power companies troubleshooting crews though :-).
I work Maintenance in large industrial plant. Do lots of outside equipment installation. Black ties way superior to white in longevity. One would think white reflects sun---good, black soaks up sun---bad, but turns out with opposite effect.
Suggestion: use a common shop vac to suck the string through the conduit. In this manner you can assemble the conduit without messing with t he string.
@@JM-yx1lm My comment was an insiders comment for people that use PTO Augers. Watch how they struggle to get the post straight up and down (plumb) it's a real challenge as the angle of the auger wants to change as it get lower. I usually have to do that type of work single handed and from the tractor seat you can't really see the changing angle of the auger.
Hi... love your videos. Wanted help sizeing a small pv setup with battery for my intex pool. It has a 750w pump and a 125w clorene generator. Both have to run 8 hours a day. The only reason for the battery would be to guarantee a constant power supply to the chlorine generator or else it resets the programming.
Timestamps: with leading zero so the columns are in alignment This is the correct way to do it: 01:17 Solar Materials 05:21 Racking Materials 07:27 Establishing Build Site/ Finding Due South 09:17 Rack Assembly/ Screw Installation 12:40 Ground Cover 16:35 Rack Assembly 23:45 Solar Panel Install 25:12 Solar Panel/Optimizer Wiring 34:17 Combiner Box Detail 36:13 Conduit from Array to Building 37:25 Trenching 40:44 Wiring Combiner Box 43:57 Installing AC Disconnect 45:17 Installing Inverter 48:35 Inverter Running
I'm planning to do a video explaining the differences and why you should choose one over the other. In short, there are three main methods: 1) String inverter - Lowest cost and simple, but less efficient especially if there is any shading or imbalance in the strings. 2) Optimizers with central inverter - Higher cost, similar to a string inverter, but each panel's voltage is individually controlled improving overall performance. 3) Micro Inverters - Highest cost, each panel has it's own inverter. Good for efficiency and easy expansion. There are many other detailed advantages and disadvantages, but that is the rough overview. Hope that helps!
Well done Dave, you made it very easy to follow as well as wholesale solar's simple build system....I'll be doing 10-12kw off grid, thanks for all the info
I have utilized the industry standard methods for preventing galvanic corrosion on a PV racking system. The Racking is galvanized, the PV modules are anodized and the fasteners are stainless steel. The only thing less noble than zinc is magnesium. Are you suggesting to add a magnesium anode somehow to further improve the corrosion toughness? Here is an article on PV racking corrosion for reference: www.cedgreentech.com/article/galvanic-corrosion-and-protection-solar-pv-installations
Wow. Big project. Must be a fun. I have enjoyed to watch the entire episode. I wish there are some holes in between panels so that a strong gust passes through.
There is some gap between the panels. I get high winds where I live. The system as already seen 60mph gusts since install. It seems to handle it with no problems.
Great video!!! Did you combine each string in parallel inside the junction box at the array? I saw the connection to the underground lines, but didn't quite catch where/if the 4 PV wires went down to 2.
This is a great video Dave. Can I ask you to show the installation when the PVC pipe goes up to inside the garage, I see outside (beside the meter base) installation, then pipes go through the wall to inside the garage. I didn't follow the installation and connections inside and outside the garage. thank you, sir.
Sorry, the video would be intolerably long to show everything. There is nothing special there, I have a conduit that runs from the disconnect box into the garage and then out of the wall and into the inverter. The conductors simply run directly from one box to the other. Hope that helps. Thanks!
Yes, thanks for the feedback. I have since converted to the UV resistant black zip ties as shown in this update: ruclips.net/video/i7vHEHB3a-M/видео.html
Very good information, I'm looking to get solar for my home and I'd like to learn how the panels work. Maybe these are silly question but iI'm learning.... lets say 5 panels, together, Do the energy load in each panel separately, fill up then move to the next panel and fill then move to the next panel and so on and so on? In full sun, do each panel absorb energy at different levels? If there is a crack in the panel will it reduce the energy it creates as a whole? How can you check to see if a panel is actually working to it's full capacity?
Each panel acts as an independent energy source. They can be stacked in series or parallel to increase the available voltage or current. Damage does affect performance you can see an evaluation of damaged panels I did in this video: ruclips.net/video/_HKW7mwPiMI/видео.html
Awsome project. Can you clear something up for me. When you were checking the voltage for 1 volt per panel, is that a setting you select on the optimizer and then change it when actually using the system?
The wire from the panels to the house looked way too small for that fairly long distance running about 12 Amps at the full 4.5 kW for each pair of wires. The less power loss the better. Have you checked the voltage drop on each pair?
@@agsolarpower5975 Not knowing the distance from the inverter I guessed about 100M so there is about 75 Watts loss not taking into account any junction resistance.
The distance was less than 175'. There are two sets of 10 gauge wires, one for each string. Because the voltage is 480v the loss is actually very small. I calculated the revenue loss vs the cost of upgrading to 8 gauge wire, but the payoff was clearly not worth it.
Nice install video for the solar panels. The only problem and biggest problem with your system is, that if the grid power goes out you do not have power anymore. I was Grid tied before and I used an SMA4000 TL-US. now that is in the garage and is $1800 loss.
My plan was to take it one step at a time. This grid tie system gets me started and will pay for itself in about 8 years. Right now code in my area requires they system to shut down in the case of a power outage, but that may be changing in the future.
I like to say its a nice level solar panel setup, I want a South Facing solar Panels setup, when I move to a bungalow, NOT on the roof but in the garden, might even have solar tracking >? in the garden I can improve as time goes by,
I'm glad I put it on the ground, easy access for assembly and maintenance. The panels have come down in price so much, that tracking systems really don't make sense anymore.
Great video. Wish I could install my own to keep costs down. But the local government requires all the installation done by a licensed electrician. Consequently, my cost sky rockets and a BIG discouragement to even consider solar. My payback went from 9 years doing things on my own to nearly 15 years because I have to hire a licensed electrician. Being in my 70s, it does not make much sense to install solar because of local government electrical codes since I'll never be able to pay if off.
I'm just beginning to educate myself about installing a solar system and from what I have read and viewed so far is that optimizers are beneficial if you have shading issues or your solar panels are oriented in different directions. Neither case appears to be an issue for you. So, what drove your decision to include them?
Great question. Since my panels are ground mounted, I didn't have to apply panel level rapid shutdown, and as you stated I have no shad or mismatching, so I did not need to have optimizers. However, I wanted to have a deeper understanding of the operation of the system at a panel level and flexibility for future expansion with different panels or angles. For instance I have added a panel to one string making it 13, but I can still combine the power from both strings because the optimizers keep the voltage at 400VDC no mater what. I will be doing some future videos showing the operation with used and mismatched panels. Hope that helps.
Hello Dave, first I'd like to thank you for all the great solar presentation you have posted. They are among the best on RUclips. I have two questions, most solar panels are installed with a tilt angel that is a compromise based on a number of factors. Can I ask you why you settled on a tilt angle of 30 degrees? My second question is related to the materials used in the ground mounting structure. From what I can see, these cross members appear to be similar or are the same as "UniStrut" steel pipe hangers. Can you confirm that they are basically UniStrut members, like the ones that are sold by Home Depot and Lowes. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback! The angle is a compromise. There are lots of charts online showing the ideal compromise angle based on your latitude. That is what I used to set mine. However, after using it for 3 years I would make it steeper. My winter production is my biggest struggle, it's easy to produce power in the summer, and the snow sheds better with a steeper angle. If you use bifacial panels the steeper angle is less of a negative since you can gain power from the back side. The East-West panel mounts are heavy duty Unistrut. Hope that helps.
You can also use chainlink fence posts and top rails for the panel mounts. Installation of uprights with a post driver and top rails with available fittings to create the entire structure. I built one the same size as yours for $359. Bet you paid more than that for the shipping on your's. And the ground clips you used between panels are less ground than the clamps that hold the panel to the underlying framework which is many times greater ground than those flimsy clips. Plus that if you move the connection point to the center you can put 6 panels on each side with no long negative 10 ga leads to "tie" it together. Smarta-farta saves money. Much of the expense you incurred was a waste of money. So the pay back will be much longer...probably 10 years more...and about the same time your wife files for divorce and takes the house and the solar system:) By the way I always recommend to get extras...extra panels, controller, etc for failures down the road. The components are notorious for not being available in a short amount of time. Also use of power bank batteries from electric cars can save tons of money and offer long term reliability. Smarta-farta saves money. Buying off the shelf costs skads of money. I like to use 1 inch "seal-tite" conduit for runs between panel and house or even 10-2 UF romex which is both water proof and sunlight resistant. You can drag a ditcher attachment on your tractor and be done in less than an hour.
Thanks for the ideas. My county requires structures certified by an engineer to withstand 90mph winds. That limited my options for DIY racking solutions. I didn't think of putting the connection in the center, but I was trying to minimize the distance for the run to the building by putting it at the end. Thanks.
I’m 74 with very little electric experience but this is so clear I think even I could do it. I have 40 panels I got last year just sitting here because I was confused. Thank you so much for this!!
Dave. Could you comment on if that racking system superstructure could have been built cheaper with pressure treat lumber? That kit of tinker toys you got are all perfectly good - no doubt - just looking for a cheaper alternative.
You can certainly find people who have developed solutions with treated lumber, however, where I'm located, I had to have an engineer approved structure with 90mph wind certification. If that is not required in your area, you may be able to build something with lower cost. Keep in mind you want this structure to hold up for at least 25 years. If I were to go that rout, I would probably build a "car port" like structure that I could use for vehicle or equipment storage. That way the dual use helps justify the cost.
Excellent installation guide, and educational, looking to install very similar sized system in SoCal. I am now watching several videos from your channel! And would be installing a tie in system before summer. I am curios and it would be valuable to hear what would be your panel choice if doing the installation today? Is there a reason for not using panels with micro inverters? (Maybe I misunderstood) thanks again for the content, so glad I found your channel and will be using links in your description.
If I was installing the same system today, I would use bifacial panels with a steeper angle to shed snow and increase winter production. If you have a large distance from the panels to the house, and no shading, I would use a string inverter with a high input voltage to minimize conductor sizing and line losses ( I did a follow-up on the cost impact of optimizers you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/nC7i_GSrGlk/видео.html ). For a short run or panels with different angles and shading I would use microinverters, like the ones I used in my shed install which you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/Y8OGxdJ9cU8/видео.html Thanks for supporting my channel by using the links!
Thanks for a great informative video. Does the fact that you`ve installed the system yourself impact the warranty of the SolarEdge optimizers and inverter? Thanks.
Thanks! The way I read it, as long as the equipment is installed correctly the warrantee is still valid. It is pretty much plug and play so no big concern there. You can always confirm for your actual situation directly with SolarEdge. Here is the warrantee information for reference: www.solaredge.com/sites/default/files/solaredge-warranty-april-2019.pdf
Has to be the best video I found. Thanks for pulling this together. I do have one question - having 2 rows like you do creates more of a concern with wind forces - is there any reason why you could not go with a single row? Makes accessing the panels a bit easier also..
I'm glad it was helpful! The racking is designed to handle 90mph winds in the current configuration. Accessing the panels would be easier, but it would also make the array twice as long and require more racking.
Good video up to the twisted connection especially on DC voltage it a fire hazard at risk. I would at least used din rail combiner connection. And on end of wire Farrell copper nickel cladding. All and all nice video.
@@bryaniskoo You should look into the cost of the available installed systems. With their huge markup model, commission of their lead generators never mind the sales group compensations... Ya, anyway, your comment is not very relevant to reality. Installed systems often have 15-years+ ROI whereas many small systems are not only incrementally scalable but offer as little as 12 month or often 18-month ROIs. You can spend as much as you want to but you don’t have to.
While I am delighted with the frame and method of assembly (I especially like the insulation from the ground and gravel ballast under the spans) and the earthing of the panels, there are several things that make me deeply concerned. 1. As I understand it, screw anchors in total play the role of grounding the frame and thus the panels - have the ground resistance measurements been performed? In Europe, there is a legal requirement that the grounding resistance should be less than 10 ohms. In practice, good grounding is considered to be one whose resistance is less than 5 ohms in the dry period. In practice, two stainless steel rods are used, driven to a depth of about 10 meters each, at a distance of several or a dozen meters from each other (usually on both sides of the frame), electrically connected to the frame (to each higher vertical element just above the ground) by a flat bar with a large cross-sectional area - no less 20 square millimeters. I doubt whether the anchors themselves guarantee this quality grounding. 2. I don't see any sign of overvoltage / lightning protection either on the PV panels side or the inverter side. In Europe, if the distance between the panels and the inverter is more than 20 meters, this protection MUST be on both DC sides. 3. I don't see any trace of PV strings DC overcurrent protection. There is no formal requirement to use such security, after all, it is important for the safety of their own and their own family, and their own property ... Everyone uses it regularly. 4. Also without a formal requirement, a DC disconnector is used regularly, as a rule outside the building (so that the fire brigade has easy access to it) disconnecting the DC strings. This is in the event of a major breakdown when the owner is not at home, and it is also widely used. It is cool as long as it is cool and the user thinks: "For what the hell do I have these costs and inconvenience?" But let the lightning strike the frame, or there will be a short circuit and as a result someone will be struck by AC current, or a fire will arise, the first thing the insurer will check is the security condition. If he found them missing, or if they did not comply with the regulations, he would in 100% refuse to receive compensation. I'm not writing all of this just to criticize. I am only sharing my observations, which may berry into the upgrade of installation of the above-mentioned protections, which will undoubtedly increase the safety of using PV installations. Contrary to appearances, the costs are not great in relation to the costs of the entire installation, and the profit (in the event of a failure) and peace of mind are priceless. When building a large PV installation, you must always remember that it generates a large amount of energy, with very high voltage, sufficient to cause very serious losses if not carefully secured. There is no room for underestimating the dangers here. Because the question is not "can something happen"? The question is, "when can this something happen". When building a large PV installation, you must always remember that it generates a large amount of energy, with very high voltage, sufficient to cause very serious losses if not carefully secured. There is no room for underestimating the dangers here. Because the question is not "can something happen"? The question is, "when can this 'something' happen"? Besides, I envy the size of the plot - you can easily build a regular off-grid installation.
My biggest issue getting our project "off the ground" is that I want my panels 6' off the ground, lol, and I'm a little stymied by the connecting to the grid requriements. I'm in need of some detailed info on connecting to the actual power box. I'm hoping this video/series will help :)
You can always talk to the engineers at your utility and the inspectors for your area. They are usually willing to help you understand the requirements for connection in your area.
@@ProjectsWithDave you should recommend them finding electricians to do this work. I've been installing these systems for over 5 years, and the company I work for has been doing them since 2006. These voltages are dangerous and can really hurt someone.
Dave, I have watched a lot of RUclips videos and I think this is one of the best. How far are your panels from the house? How do you compensate for the voltage drop in the 10 gauge wire over that distance? Thanks.
The total run is about 175 feet. I have very little voltage drop, because the optimizers hold the voltage for each string at 480v. Otherwise the voltage drop would be a bigger issue.
@@ProjectsWithDave It was confusing, as I thought that the I^2*R losses must be ferocious if the "optimizers" are only supplying 1V per panel. But it seems that's a safety feature. 480VDC seems much more like what I'd be expecting. Thanks for the wonderful video!
Great video on installing solar panels thanks for posting. I have a question regarding your combiner box and why did you not put a switch box with a master switch there to shut off the solar panels and wired them to a bus bar instead of using marretes? I was thinking if you ever need to replace your inverter and want to go off grid completely then you have a switch to turn off the voltage and the bus bar will allow you to easily upgrade to add more wires instead of cutting off the siliconed marretes. Just a thought on giving the system more flexibility.
There is a disconnect at the inverter and the optimizers hold the module voltage to a safe voltage of 1V/module. I did modify the junction box to improve the layout and expandability in this video: ruclips.net/video/uS8cqppAy7s/видео.html
Very informative video. I feel like it is an easier project than I originally thought for sure. I love the attention to details you presented the viewer man.
Dave! Awesome video! Super informative! I am in the planning stages of doing a DIY solar setup and randomly stumbled on this video! I was shocked that I know & work with you!!! It is a small world Lol! I too am considering wholesale solar for a package but I am curious how you decided on this setup vs. microinverters. I might reach out to you and ask some additional questions if you don't mind.
Love the video but why did you decide to do 12v and not 24v or even 48v since your panels are 48v and you are so far away from your house? Wouldn't the wire need be cheaper since you could use a thinner gauge? I am new to solar so I'm trying to learn.
Great question! 12V would require a very large wire for that long of a run, but the 12V is just the "safety" voltage the optimizers control the panel output to until they are initialized by the inverter. The optimizers are DC-DC inverters that control the voltage to 480VDC during operation independent of the power output of each panel or the number of panels on the string. I have a string of 12 panels running 480VDC with one home run and a string of 13 panels at 480VDC for the second home run. I then have a DC-AC inverter at the house to convert to 240VAC. Hope that helps. Here is an explanation on the Solar Edge website: www.solaredge.com/us/products/power-optimizer
Good move building it on the ground what most people don't think of is when it's on your roof and in 20 years when your shingles need to be changed or if your roof is leaking you need to remove every single panel and the rack for the repairs then have to put everything back on. On the ground its put it in and forget about it.
It's also cooler
This panel can put out close to 100 watts ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
This is the best video I found yet on how to actually do it. Many people talk about solar but few show how to actually do it. Thank you sir for this very useful video.
Thanks for the feedback! I'm glad it was helpful.
Thanks Dave! I reached out to Linda and mentioned your name. Got a great price (.46pw) on 28 new Panasonic panels delivered. Linda was great to work with. Bought em!
She had good used ones for .30 and .32pw, but opted for new.
Thanks for your great videos!
Great! Linda's great to work with, I'm glad she was able to find a good solution for you.
I had the opportunity to meet Dave on a recent installation. He’s got a solid engineering/design background and I’m glad he’s making videos that truly benefit the DIY solar community.
Thanks Kyle! Likewise, I loved your racking product and plan to post an overview for everyone in a future video.
I've been researching going solar+battery/off grid for a couple years, and the sheer amount of information out there is incredible because of people like you. This probably gave me the biggest dose of what to expect when setting something like this up, or something very similar. Thank you very much for showcasing this. :)
Thanks! Your right the amount of information to digest is pretty overwhelming. I'm glad this was helpful.
@@ProjectsWithDave Optimizers are mandatory ? i mean we already have MPPT in inverter then why go for these Optimizers ? Cost of Optimizers must be very high?
DC/DC optimizers like I used on my system are not worth the expense. I learned that later, here is a video on my analysis: ruclips.net/video/nC7i_GSrGlk/видео.html
Thanks for the great video. One trick for the conduit to avoid having to put all the rope through ahead of time (which is a pain and takes forever) is to put your conduit together, glue it, trench it, and cover it up. Then when you're ready to run your cables through, tie a little plastic bag or something to your rope or pull string and suck it through with a shop vac. I did this with a long run to a new barn and it took about 30 seconds. When I pulled the wire through, I also pulled more line/rope in case I ever want to use the conduit again for something else. Now I have the wire and a piece of vinyl pull rope in the conduit. Future proof!
That's a great idea! I actually used a wad of paper on the end of a string to run the line through the conduit in the garage, except I blew it through with compressed air. It worked great. Also, I ran a separate conduit parallel to the first to allow for future expansion without trenching next time.
Out of all of the videos regarding solar system installations, yours is definitely the most comprehensive and easy to follow. My only wish is to see one made equally as good as yours on an off grid system. It would also be nice to have you list the sourcing of the products you used and costs. The ground mount system really has me interested. Great job, no, fantastic job making this video!
For off-grid look for a all in one systems like mpp solar, Sol-ark inverters and victron inverters.
Wow, thanks! I have had a couple of requests for component lists, I'll see what I can do.
You might want to check out Curtis Stone's channel if you haven't already. Lots of great info there on his off-grid system.
ruclips.net/video/f1ZyZNRYezA/видео.html
This is the most comprehensive DIY solar setup that is on RUclips. Thank you so much for documenting the installation step by step. Great job.
Wow, thanks!
Thank you soooooo much for sharing your experience!!! I just graduated from an engineering degree focused on solar energy, and this video showed me the real stuff I didn't learn from the class.
That is awesome! Thanks for the feedback! You chose an up and coming field, I'm sure you will do well. : )
Having used tons of that weed mat, I've found instead of cutting X's for the post, to use a propane torch and burn a hole. It melts the edge and reduces fraying
Thanks for the idea.
@@ProjectsWithDave I'm rewatching the video today as I have ordered a system and just waiting for the permit to get started.
I Like That Learning Curve When He Cut The Fabric!! He Had It Down By The Last One For Sure! I Think I Would Have Come Off The Middle Of The Array So I Did Not Have To Run A Long Negative! Also DC Drops Across Wire That Is Why The Cables On A Battery Are So Big! The Closer To The Battery Pack You Can Get The Better! The Main reason We Dont have DC Running In Our Homes! Great Video!
Hi David Very Impressive display of basic construction techniques, working with others, grid tie solar ground mount installation, but most of all, how to be a dad. Loved the video. I also have a SolarEdge grid tied system I installed in 2015. I had a whole house standby generator first so had to figure out how to wire them both so they would not try to work against each other. I also purchased my components from Wholesale (Unbound) Solar in Mt Shasta, CA. And like you, I didn't feel comfortable poking holes in my house roof, so mounted the panels on my barn roof instead. Thank you again for this. You, your son, chickens, and others, did outstanding work!
Thanks!
Very detailed and crisp video of the entire process of setting up a solar system at ground level. The best i have seen and i learned a lot. Thanks for sharing the video.
Glad it was helpful!
So far the best DIY solar project explanation on the web.Very educational and a great job.Thank you
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Solar is awesome. We got a 4kW system in 2015. Added another kW in 2017. I want more but I'm out of roof space hahah. I wish i had space for a ground mount system but there's no space in our tiny yard for it. You built a really nice system there. Great video.
Nice! I'm already considering expanding as well. Thanks for the feedback!
THANK YOU for posting this. It's remarkably difficult to find something which lays out, step by step, what the process of installing a solar system includes.
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful.
Excellent explaining, step by step....... Stay Always Blessed Dear......!
Thanks a lot!
Great video! I installed my own system too, but back in 2013 panel sizes were smaller! I chose Enphase micro inverters, which is similar to the Solar Edge DC option, but keeps it all AC, so no wall inverter is needed. My system paid for itself in less than 3 years, but I am pushing 20 kWh in full sun. My problem here is trees from all my close neighbors, where as you have no shading issues there. Thanks for showing people they can do it themselves! I remember there was little help when I did mine.
Thanks! Sounds like you have a great system, a 3 year pay back is fantastic!
Very informative video. Keep up the good work. My wife has wanted to do this for a while and honestly, I felt like it would be too much money, but this is not bad. Plus after watching you install the panels and the panel, I believe that it is possible for me to do a self install. I have several friends who are really good with electrical systems. Thanks
Go for it! I'm glad I could inspire you : )
Awesome video and work! If you ever have to run mule tape through conduit again, you can build out your conduit then tie a bag like Home Depot bag to the end of the mule tape and get on the other end with a shop vac and it'll suck it all the way through real fast. Makes it super fast and easy and the tape isn't in your way as your glueing everything together. If the connection between conduit and shop vac is leaking too much just wrap another HD bag around it and it'll seal it up.
Thanks! Thanks for the tip, I'll try it in the future.
Your shovel skill is impressive.
I finally pulled the trigger on panels, working on the rest. I am also in Ohio and with the weather we have been getting I would like to reduce my reliance on the grid (initially grid tie but soon adding batteries). Thank you for the video!
Nice!! Grid tie is a great way to get started. Good luck!
Great video. The comments below are valuable too. Thanks for the help.
Well done, thanks for the in depth description. I would suggest next time you delve into the AC connection, even if it's not supposed to be hot, you should remove your rings from your fingers.
Thanks for the tip!
Very helpful video..appreciate you taking the time to make it..I love how you took time at explaining things. Most of the time they run through things so fast , you can't keep up. Good job
Glad it was helpful!
26:46 I have no idea about these solar panel optimizers... glad to know about it
Very good video. Very straightforward. I'm wondering why you didn't connect your panels in parallel. You would have more current out to run that distance to the house. Very clean build at any rate.
Thanks! The two strings do connect in parallel at the inverter.
Thank you for uploading this! You were very thorough and I really appreciate the details. Great work, it looks much cleaner than what most installers you'd pay for would do. I'm looking into building a system with microinverters so thank you!
Thanks! I'm glad the extra effort of documenting it was helpful for you.
Excellent video. I have found that the white zip ties don't hold up to the UV. The black ones last longer. I like the idea of using the post hole borer. I didn't think of that.
Thanks! I've had the UV Zip tie suggestion before. Here is a link to UV Resistant Black Zip Ties: amzn.to/3hwENeS
@@ProjectsWithDave Thanks for the link. At least it is pretty easy to replace the zip ties if they fail. I expect that they will last several years though.
An excellent job! However, I would have included fuses between the panels on the series connection to protect them from a failure of any of them.
yes this is by far the best install vid I have found to date now I know I can do this!!
I'm so glad it was helpful for you!
An easier way to deal with your fish tape is to tie a plastic bag to the end and use a vacuum cleaner to suck it through the conduit, that way you are not working around it while cementing the pvc together.
I would have a few batteries for a small amount of backup. I am assuming that inverter would allow feeding a charge controller or does it have that functionality built into it. Nice video btw.
The only battery charging my inverter does is EV charging, you can see that video here: ruclips.net/video/U2ilH8yOi7A/видео.html
However, I am looking into some battery backup options. Thanks!
Great 👌
But make sure run heavy gauge wire for longer distances to minimise power loss in wire
You should use atleast 8mm² wire for each string.
The cabling sizing must be calculated - peak current / length are the variables, max voltage drop generally should be just a few % depending on local codes, any pro would be doing this, perhaps not your average DIY'er who might go on recommendations on youtube comments.
The distance was less than 175'. There are two sets of 10 gauge wires (6mm^2), one for each string. Because the voltage is 480v the loss is actually very small. I calculated the revenue loss vs the cost of upgrading to 8 gauge wire 10mm^2), but the payoff was clearly not worth it.
Nice install. I don't really view my system in terms of long term "pay-back", I just try to save and then buy and install, and from then on its my own power independent of the Grid. Payback for me is obtained when the neighbors lights are all off and mine are still on. This can confuse the local power companies troubleshooting crews though :-).
Nice strategy! : )
Sweet install. I used the white wire ties and they fell apart. Changed over to black Uv ones and no problem since :)
Thanks for the suggestion.
I work Maintenance in large industrial plant. Do lots of outside equipment installation. Black ties way superior to white in longevity. One would think white reflects sun---good, black soaks up sun---bad, but turns out with opposite effect.
jesus, my pay back here in Brazil is 3 year and I was compleining . your system is niiiine year, my god!
Suggestion: use a common shop vac to suck the string through the conduit. In this manner you can assemble the conduit without messing with t he string.
Thanks for the tip!
Excellent Presentation and Excellent Demo !! Many Thanks and Best Wishes !!
Thank You!
Good job on setting the posts and getting them plumb!
Thanks!
Wouldn't it be called square?
@@JM-yx1lm My comment was an insiders comment for people that use PTO Augers. Watch how they struggle to get the post straight up and down (plumb) it's a real challenge as the angle of the auger wants to change as it get lower. I usually have to do that type of work single handed and from the tractor seat you can't really see the changing angle of the auger.
Assembled in US, should like to see "manufactured in". Great videos. 👍
Thanks!
Hi... love your videos. Wanted help sizeing a small pv setup with battery for my intex pool. It has a 750w pump and a 125w clorene generator. Both have to run 8 hours a day. The only reason for the battery would be to guarantee a constant power supply to the chlorine generator or else it resets the programming.
Why didn’t you put a copper ground rod at the end of the panels in the combiner box trench?
The racking system has galvanized screws almost 4' into the ground, they provide grounding at the rack.
So is it a must to have that ground rod after so many panels? So sat I had two of these setups is use two or only one of they were combined?
Timestamps: with leading zero so the columns are in alignment
This is the correct way to do it:
01:17 Solar Materials
05:21 Racking Materials
07:27 Establishing Build Site/ Finding Due South
09:17 Rack Assembly/ Screw Installation
12:40 Ground Cover
16:35 Rack Assembly
23:45 Solar Panel Install
25:12 Solar Panel/Optimizer Wiring
34:17 Combiner Box Detail
36:13 Conduit from Array to Building
37:25 Trenching
40:44 Wiring Combiner Box
43:57 Installing AC Disconnect
45:17 Installing Inverter
48:35 Inverter Running
Fixed! Thanks for the feedback!
What a excellent job Dave 👏
best video of this topic. why do some designs have micro inverter and power inverters ad some only micro inverters? thanks
I'm planning to do a video explaining the differences and why you should choose one over the other. In short, there are three main methods:
1) String inverter - Lowest cost and simple, but less efficient especially if there is any shading or imbalance in the strings.
2) Optimizers with central inverter - Higher cost, similar to a string inverter, but each panel's voltage is individually controlled improving overall performance.
3) Micro Inverters - Highest cost, each panel has it's own inverter. Good for efficiency and easy expansion.
There are many other detailed advantages and disadvantages, but that is the rough overview. Hope that helps!
Wouldn't it be better to build a roof structure to install them on so that you could utilize the shaded dry area underneath?
I did consider that, it is certainly another good solution.
@@ProjectsWithDave Thanks for providing such a thorough tutorial. It seems like you have plenty of land to spare regardless.
Nicely done. Thanks for your through discussion and illustrations step by step.
Glad it was helpful!
Please use some crimps or something better then wire nuts on the PV connection at the array.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks Dave. For your grounding wire... Did you just use a wire nut to connect the #6 bare copper wire to #10 THWN that went to your house?
No, the ground wire is connected to a lug on the frame and a lug on the panels and runs continuously all the way to the house grounding rod.
Very detailed and crisp video of the entire process of setting up a solar system at ground level.
Why do you get 1.05 V in output of optimizer?
The optimizers are programed to limit voltage to a save 1V per optimizer until initialized by the inverter.
Well done Dave, you made it very easy to follow as well as wholesale solar's simple build system....I'll be doing 10-12kw off grid, thanks for all the info
Best of luck!
nice. dont forget to use sacrifical anode to prevent corrosion on the racks.
I have utilized the industry standard methods for preventing galvanic corrosion on a PV racking system. The Racking is galvanized, the PV modules are anodized and the fasteners are stainless steel. The only thing less noble than zinc is magnesium. Are you suggesting to add a magnesium anode somehow to further improve the corrosion toughness? Here is an article on PV racking corrosion for reference: www.cedgreentech.com/article/galvanic-corrosion-and-protection-solar-pv-installations
@@ProjectsWithDave exactly. Cheap and add more protection.
Wow. Big project. Must be a fun. I have enjoyed to watch the entire episode. I wish there are some holes in between panels so that a strong gust passes through.
There is some gap between the panels. I get high winds where I live. The system as already seen 60mph gusts since install. It seems to handle it with no problems.
Great video!!! Did you combine each string in parallel inside the junction box at the array? I saw the connection to the underground lines, but didn't quite catch where/if the 4 PV wires went down to 2.
There are two series strings that run all the way to the inverter. Two positive, two negative and one ground wire in the conduit.
This is a great video Dave. Can I ask you to show the installation when the PVC pipe goes up to inside the garage, I see outside (beside the meter base) installation, then pipes go through the wall to inside the garage. I didn't follow the installation and connections inside and outside the garage. thank you, sir.
Sorry, the video would be intolerably long to show everything. There is nothing special there, I have a conduit that runs from the disconnect box into the garage and then out of the wall and into the inverter. The conductors simply run directly from one box to the other. Hope that helps. Thanks!
Very nice mounting system! Great video 👍
Thanks! 👍
Greetings, Black zip ties, last longer than the white ones. Other than that very nice install.
Yes, thanks for the feedback. I have since converted to the UV resistant black zip ties as shown in this update: ruclips.net/video/i7vHEHB3a-M/видео.html
I think I'm gonna try it, you made it look simple.
Go for it!
wil nico
Don't try it ... Just do it.
There is no success in 'trying'
The success comes in the doing
Think about that when you constipated.
Great video. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.
Crystal clear how to,
Thank you
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
fantastic step by step sir. thankyou
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for sharing solar is definitely the way to go very inspiring 👍
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful!
Very good information, I'm looking to get solar for my home and I'd like to learn how the panels work. Maybe these are silly question but iI'm learning.... lets say 5 panels, together,
Do the energy load in each panel separately, fill up then move to the next panel and fill then move to the next panel and so on and so on?
In full sun, do each panel absorb energy at different levels?
If there is a crack in the panel will it reduce the energy it creates as a whole? How can you check to see if a panel is actually working to it's full capacity?
Each panel acts as an independent energy source. They can be stacked in series or parallel to increase the available voltage or current. Damage does affect performance you can see an evaluation of damaged panels I did in this video: ruclips.net/video/_HKW7mwPiMI/видео.html
Awsome project. Can you clear something up for me. When you were checking the voltage for 1 volt per panel, is that a setting you select on the optimizer and then change it when actually using the system?
Good question. The optimizers automatically control the voltage to 1 volt until they are initialized by the inverter.
Projects With Everyday Dave thank you!
The wire from the panels to the house looked way too small for that fairly long distance running about 12 Amps at the full 4.5 kW for each pair of wires. The less power loss the better.
Have you checked the voltage drop on each pair?
It will be fine for 6mm² wire
Because continuous current is about 8A
Peak is 10A
For each string
@@agsolarpower5975 Not knowing the distance from the inverter I guessed about 100M so there is about 75 Watts loss not taking into account any junction resistance.
The distance was less than 175'. There are two sets of 10 gauge wires, one for each string. Because the voltage is 480v the loss is actually very small. I calculated the revenue loss vs the cost of upgrading to 8 gauge wire, but the payoff was clearly not worth it.
Waite you said you connected your panels in series and got 12vdc, so where is the 480 Vdc coming from?
Each optimizer puts out 1vdc until the system is initialized by the inverter. This is the "safety" voltage.
Great video, should I use thicker gauge wire my drop is about 200 ft. don't want any drop off with that distance
I calculated the payback for using heaver gauge wire, but the payback was way too long. I hope to make a video on that topic sometime.
Nice install video for the solar panels. The only problem and biggest problem with your system is, that if the grid power goes out you do not have power anymore. I was Grid tied before and I used an SMA4000 TL-US. now that is in the garage and is $1800 loss.
How did you get around this issue of having power if the grid goes down?
@@thelightworshipper9687 Batteries. see my video. You have to use the right inverter.
My plan was to take it one step at a time. This grid tie system gets me started and will pay for itself in about 8 years. Right now code in my area requires they system to shut down in the case of a power outage, but that may be changing in the future.
I like to say its a nice level solar panel setup, I want a South Facing solar Panels setup, when I move to a bungalow, NOT on the roof but in the garden, might even have solar tracking >? in the garden I can improve as time goes by,
I'm glad I put it on the ground, easy access for assembly and maintenance. The panels have come down in price so much, that tracking systems really don't make sense anymore.
Great video Sir, , thanks for sharing, learned a lot from you today!
Glad to hear it!
AWESOME VIDEO!!!!..... can u list the average prce/cost for each component.....i want to know how much $ i will need to do this myself
Thanks! Here is a link to the part by part cost: ruclips.net/video/PNTO83FvaL4/видео.html
Great video. Wish I could install my own to keep costs down. But the local government requires all the installation done by a licensed electrician. Consequently, my cost sky rockets and a BIG discouragement to even consider solar. My payback went from 9 years doing things on my own to nearly 15 years because I have to hire a licensed electrician. Being in my 70s, it does not make much sense to install solar because of local government electrical codes since I'll never be able to pay if off.
Sounds like the right decision, 15years is too long, a lot can happen in that much time.
I'm just beginning to educate myself about installing a solar system and from what I have read and viewed so far is that optimizers are beneficial if you have shading issues or your solar panels are oriented in different directions. Neither case appears to be an issue for you. So, what drove your decision to include them?
Great question. Since my panels are ground mounted, I didn't have to apply panel level rapid shutdown, and as you stated I have no shad or mismatching, so I did not need to have optimizers. However, I wanted to have a deeper understanding of the operation of the system at a panel level and flexibility for future expansion with different panels or angles. For instance I have added a panel to one string making it 13, but I can still combine the power from both strings because the optimizers keep the voltage at 400VDC no mater what. I will be doing some future videos showing the operation with used and mismatched panels. Hope that helps.
Hello Dave, first I'd like to thank you for all the great solar presentation you have posted. They are among the best on RUclips. I have two questions, most solar panels are installed with a tilt angel that is a compromise based on a number of factors. Can I ask you why you settled on a tilt angle of 30 degrees? My second question is related to the materials used in the ground mounting structure. From what I can see, these cross members appear to be similar or are the same as "UniStrut" steel pipe hangers. Can you confirm that they are basically UniStrut members, like the ones that are sold by Home Depot and Lowes. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback! The angle is a compromise. There are lots of charts online showing the ideal compromise angle based on your latitude. That is what I used to set mine. However, after using it for 3 years I would make it steeper. My winter production is my biggest struggle, it's easy to produce power in the summer, and the snow sheds better with a steeper angle. If you use bifacial panels the steeper angle is less of a negative since you can gain power from the back side. The East-West panel mounts are heavy duty Unistrut. Hope that helps.
You can also use chainlink fence posts and top rails for the panel mounts. Installation of uprights with a post driver and top rails with available fittings to create the entire structure. I built one the same size as yours for $359. Bet you paid more than that for the shipping on your's. And the ground clips you used between panels are less ground than the clamps that hold the panel to the underlying framework which is many times greater ground than those flimsy clips. Plus that if you move the connection point to the center you can put 6 panels on each side with no long negative 10 ga leads to "tie" it together. Smarta-farta saves money. Much of the expense you incurred was a waste of money. So the pay back will be much longer...probably 10 years more...and about the same time your wife files for divorce and takes the house and the solar system:)
By the way I always recommend to get extras...extra panels, controller, etc for failures down the road. The components are notorious for not being available in a short amount of time. Also use of power bank batteries from electric cars can save tons of money and offer long term reliability. Smarta-farta saves money. Buying off the shelf costs skads of money.
I like to use 1 inch "seal-tite" conduit for runs between panel and house or even 10-2 UF romex which is both water proof and sunlight resistant. You can drag a ditcher attachment on your tractor and be done in less than an hour.
Thanks for the ideas. My county requires structures certified by an engineer to withstand 90mph winds. That limited my options for DIY racking solutions. I didn't think of putting the connection in the center, but I was trying to minimize the distance for the run to the building by putting it at the end. Thanks.
I’m 74 with very little electric experience but this is so clear I think even I could do it. I have 40 panels I got last year just sitting here because I was confused. Thank you so much for this!!
Awesome! Glad it was helpful.
Dave, outstanding job! This was very educational!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Dave. Could you comment on if that racking system superstructure could have been built cheaper with pressure treat lumber? That kit of tinker toys you got are all perfectly good - no doubt - just looking for a cheaper alternative.
You can certainly find people who have developed solutions with treated lumber, however, where I'm located, I had to have an engineer approved structure with 90mph wind certification. If that is not required in your area, you may be able to build something with lower cost. Keep in mind you want this structure to hold up for at least 25 years. If I were to go that rout, I would probably build a "car port" like structure that I could use for vehicle or equipment storage. That way the dual use helps justify the cost.
Saved for when I get the chance to put panels on top of my shed. Legend ... this was a really good video 👍🏼
Thanks!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Chickens helping to. Nice video.
Yes, thanks : )
Excellent installation guide, and educational, looking to install very similar sized system in SoCal. I am now watching several videos from your channel! And would be installing a tie in system before summer. I am curios and it would be valuable to hear what would be your panel choice if doing the installation today? Is there a reason for not using panels with micro inverters? (Maybe I misunderstood) thanks again for the content, so glad I found your channel and will be using links in your description.
If I was installing the same system today, I would use bifacial panels with a steeper angle to shed snow and increase winter production. If you have a large distance from the panels to the house, and no shading, I would use a string inverter with a high input voltage to minimize conductor sizing and line losses ( I did a follow-up on the cost impact of optimizers you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/nC7i_GSrGlk/видео.html ). For a short run or panels with different angles and shading I would use microinverters, like the ones I used in my shed install which you can watch here: ruclips.net/video/Y8OGxdJ9cU8/видео.html
Thanks for supporting my channel by using the links!
Thanks for a great informative video. Does the fact that you`ve installed the system yourself impact the warranty of the SolarEdge optimizers and inverter? Thanks.
Thanks! The way I read it, as long as the equipment is installed correctly the warrantee is still valid. It is pretty much plug and play so no big concern there. You can always confirm for your actual situation directly with SolarEdge. Here is the warrantee information for reference: www.solaredge.com/sites/default/files/solaredge-warranty-april-2019.pdf
@@ProjectsWithDave Thanks for your response - much appreciated. Good to hear the warranty still applies.
Has to be the best video I found. Thanks for pulling this together. I do have one question - having 2 rows like you do creates more of a concern with wind forces - is there any reason why you could not go with a single row? Makes accessing the panels a bit easier also..
I'm glad it was helpful! The racking is designed to handle 90mph winds in the current configuration. Accessing the panels would be easier, but it would also make the array twice as long and require more racking.
I see you got it shipped through XPO
Hello, I was wondering how did you come up with the plans to get the permits. Thank you.
Thanks for asking. I made a video on getting the permits. You can watch it here: ruclips.net/video/imiEYDHLG4A/видео.html
Good video up to the twisted connection especially on DC voltage it a fire hazard at risk. I would at least used din rail combiner connection. And on end of wire Farrell copper nickel cladding.
All and all nice video.
Thanks! I have since upgraded to DIN rail. You can see it in this video: ruclips.net/video/uS8cqppAy7s/видео.html
How much was the cost and the cost difference from having it installed?
I bet the difference in cost was pretty close to plum.
@@bryaniskoo I bet it was not plum
@@gregwilcox1696 I watched it in 4k. It was the plummest I've seen!
@@bryaniskoo
You should look into the cost of the available installed systems. With their huge markup model, commission of their lead generators never mind the sales group compensations...
Ya, anyway, your comment is not very relevant to reality. Installed systems often have 15-years+ ROI whereas many small systems are not only incrementally scalable but offer as little as 12 month or often 18-month ROIs.
You can spend as much as you want to but you don’t have to.
@@fishhuntadventure I paid 23k for a 5.7kw system and 4.5k for for a 7.3kw system. I think they're both very good systems.
Great video Dave
Thanks 👍
you should separate ac and the dc in the inverter. There is a divider in the inverter for a reason.
While I am delighted with the frame and method of assembly (I especially like the insulation from the ground and gravel ballast under the spans) and the earthing of the panels, there are several things that make me deeply concerned.
1. As I understand it, screw anchors in total play the role of grounding the frame and thus the panels - have the ground resistance measurements been performed? In Europe, there is a legal requirement that the grounding resistance should be less than 10 ohms. In practice, good grounding is considered to be one whose resistance is less than 5 ohms in the dry period. In practice, two stainless steel rods are used, driven to a depth of about 10 meters each, at a distance of several or a dozen meters from each other (usually on both sides of the frame), electrically connected to the frame (to each higher vertical element just above the ground) by a flat bar with a large cross-sectional area - no less 20 square millimeters.
I doubt whether the anchors themselves guarantee this quality grounding.
2. I don't see any sign of overvoltage / lightning protection either on the PV panels side or the inverter side. In Europe, if the distance between the panels and the inverter is more than 20 meters, this protection MUST be on both DC sides.
3. I don't see any trace of PV strings DC overcurrent protection. There is no formal requirement to use such security, after all, it is important for the safety of their own and their own family, and their own property ... Everyone uses it regularly.
4. Also without a formal requirement, a DC disconnector is used regularly, as a rule outside the building (so that the fire brigade has easy access to it) disconnecting the DC strings. This is in the event of a major breakdown when the owner is not at home, and it is also widely used.
It is cool as long as it is cool and the user thinks: "For what the hell do I have these costs and inconvenience?" But let the lightning strike the frame, or there will be a short circuit and as a result someone will be struck by AC current, or a fire will arise, the first thing the insurer will check is the security condition. If he found them missing, or if they did not comply with the regulations, he would in 100% refuse to receive compensation.
I'm not writing all of this just to criticize. I am only sharing my observations, which may berry into the upgrade of installation of the above-mentioned protections, which will undoubtedly increase the safety of using PV installations.
Contrary to appearances, the costs are not great in relation to the costs of the entire installation, and the profit (in the event of a failure) and peace of mind are priceless.
When building a large PV installation, you must always remember that it generates a large amount of energy, with very high voltage, sufficient to cause very serious losses if not carefully secured. There is no room for underestimating the dangers here. Because the question is not "can something happen"? The question is, "when can this something happen".
When building a large PV installation, you must always remember that it generates a large amount of energy, with very high voltage, sufficient to cause very serious losses if not carefully secured. There is no room for underestimating the dangers here. Because the question is not "can something happen"? The question is, "when can this 'something' happen"?
Besides, I envy the size of the plot - you can easily build a regular off-grid installation.
Thanks for your thoughtful feedback!
My biggest issue getting our project "off the ground" is that I want my panels 6' off the ground, lol, and I'm a little stymied by the connecting to the grid requriements. I'm in need of some detailed info on connecting to the actual power box. I'm hoping this video/series will help :)
You can always talk to the engineers at your utility and the inspectors for your area. They are usually willing to help you understand the requirements for connection in your area.
@@ProjectsWithDave you should recommend them finding electricians to do this work. I've been installing these systems for over 5 years, and the company I work for has been doing them since 2006. These voltages are dangerous and can really hurt someone.
Dave, I have watched a lot of RUclips videos and I think this is one of the best. How far are your panels from the house? How do you compensate for the voltage drop in the 10 gauge wire over that distance? Thanks.
The total run is about 175 feet. I have very little voltage drop, because the optimizers hold the voltage for each string at 480v. Otherwise the voltage drop would be a bigger issue.
@@ProjectsWithDave It was confusing, as I thought that the I^2*R losses must be ferocious if the "optimizers" are only supplying 1V per panel. But it seems that's a safety feature. 480VDC seems much more like what I'd be expecting.
Thanks for the wonderful video!
Very good job dave thank you for sharing this video...
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video on installing solar panels thanks for posting. I have a question regarding your combiner box and why did you not put a switch box with a master switch there to shut off the solar panels and wired them to a bus bar instead of using marretes? I was thinking if you ever need to replace your inverter and want to go off grid completely then you have a switch to turn off the voltage and the bus bar will allow you to easily upgrade to add more wires instead of cutting off the siliconed marretes. Just a thought on giving the system more flexibility.
There is a disconnect at the inverter and the optimizers hold the module voltage to a safe voltage of 1V/module. I did modify the junction box to improve the layout and expandability in this video: ruclips.net/video/uS8cqppAy7s/видео.html
Dave, bravo. Now loan me all the equipment. 😉
Wish I could. 🙂
Very informative video. I feel like it is an easier project than I originally thought for sure. I love the attention to details you presented the viewer man.
Dave! Awesome video! Super informative! I am in the planning stages of doing a DIY solar setup and randomly stumbled on this video! I was shocked that I know & work with you!!! It is a small world Lol!
I too am considering wholesale solar for a package but I am curious how you decided on this setup vs. microinverters.
I might reach out to you and ask some additional questions if you don't mind.
Go for it! I did a lot of research, the options are almost endless these days.
Love the video but why did you decide to do 12v and not 24v or even 48v since your panels are 48v and you are so far away from your house? Wouldn't the wire need be cheaper since you could use a thinner gauge? I am new to solar so I'm trying to learn.
Great question! 12V would require a very large wire for that long of a run, but the 12V is just the "safety" voltage the optimizers control the panel output to until they are initialized by the inverter. The optimizers are DC-DC inverters that control the voltage to 480VDC during operation independent of the power output of each panel or the number of panels on the string. I have a string of 12 panels running 480VDC with one home run and a string of 13 panels at 480VDC for the second home run. I then have a DC-AC inverter at the house to convert to 240VAC. Hope that helps. Here is an explanation on the Solar Edge website: www.solaredge.com/us/products/power-optimizer
@@ProjectsWithDave I see it's part of the SafeDC™ feature on those optimizers. Thanks for the reply, and very nice system!
What was your cost to install?
Here is a link to my total cost video: ruclips.net/video/PNTO83FvaL4/видео.html