Lateral Acceleration and YAW Rate Sensor Diagnosis on Any Car
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- In this video I'm going to go over how you can test and diagnose problems with the lateral acceleration and the Yaw rate sensor on your car. You can do this with a scanner that can read live data from your ESP/BAS/ABS Module or by using a multimeter and access to the wiring diagram.
Here are links to products which were used in this video:
Scanner: amzn.to/44eKzJO
Mutimeter (It's cheaper at Harbor Freight): amzn.to/44aorjE
Back Probe kit: amzn.to/40OMba9
Banana Plug Test Leads for Multimeter: amzn.to/3LFpeBQ
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Ratchets and Wrenches assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Ratchets and Wrenches, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Ratchets and Wrenches.
Scanner: amzn.to/44eKzJO
Mutimeter (It's cheaper at Harbor Freight): amzn.to/44aorjE
Back Probe kit: amzn.to/40OMba9
Banana Plug Test Leads for Multimeter: amzn.to/3LFpeBQ
A yaw rate sensor reads rate of change in degrees per second. so I believe that that reading would being positive or negative would not have any bearing on which way your turning. This is not like a steering angle sensor where 0 degrees is dead ahead steering left is negative and steering right is positive or lateral acceleration sensor where stopped is 0 and acceleration is positive and deceleration negative. In any event your video helped me! With my car sat still I'm getting reading from 40 - 170 degrees / second! Your video helped as I get to see what 'normal' looks like! Once I replace my sensor I'll take a look at the live data and see if I'm correct! Thanks for the eloquence of your explanations!
I was going to comment about the sensor part of the video but once I saw the garage and the work you've done I have to concentrate on the garage. Wow. It's going to be a fantastic place to work from. Very nice.
Thanks Wyatt
I miss you man. I need you in my life.
Lateral Y’awll
Hell ya avocadoes! You're a fun guy to watch with a great sense of humor. So cars or avacodoes or shop improvements, doesn't matter, I'll watch.
Ha ha, the avocado farm tour would be definitely worth it!
sure stay tuned.
I love the way you explain your things 🎉
very helpful video and really like what you've done to remodel your shop. Awesome paint job!
4:41 this is how baby mini cars are made johnny !
lol good one
thank you so much. i have azera 2009 3.3L V6 GLS & the driving experience changed years ago. it was sporty in the corners & so stable on wet street or when it rains, it's like it sticks to the ground! very amazing system!. that had me pulling my hair to figure it out. mechanically checked & fixed but nothing solved. changed angel & the 4 ABS speed sensors. plus i don't have any check lights. all i can think of is that these sensors is giving wrong feed back!
Great looking shop, nice work. 16:02
ty
Thank you very much for the excellent educational video. You have a beautiful garage 👍👍👍
The thing is, just because a sensor is kicking out a voltage doesn't mean it is at the correct level. It's an indication it may be working not that it is. You also need a DVM with a decent refresh rate - there are plenty out there which are pretty slow.
Incandescent test lights do not ruin the computer on the signal wire. Been doing it for years and can show multiple videos of others using it on signal wires. If its in 300 milliamperes range, its fine
I've got a video on that, 9/10 the signal wire is fine due to how the circuit is sit up. but "signal wire" isn't always that according to diff manufacturers. Plus you'll be doing the testing at the connectors where the ref voltage and ground wire are also and for those you should use the LED test light. so to keep from accidents and the need to switch test lights by default for sensors I use the LED test light and for solenoids etc incandescent GL
@@myRatchets an incandescent light attached to the ground wire or the 5volt supply absolutely does not hurt the computer either. I test with an incandescent bulb on those circuits and never had a problem. I can also reference a diagnose dan video where he tests a five volt supply and ground with an incandescent bulb. And a scanner danner video. I do not agree it needs to be LED at all
Garage looks sweet
Good day teacher, Im glad to watched your video, just I ask a question, when you shaking the car to test the sensor, what is the position of the engine? its in start or in ON position only? thanks,,
KOEO
Such a good explanation 🎉
Beatiful place to work myRatchets 🥰👍
I will gladly buy some avocados from you!
Nice educational info. I have a 1994 toyota cirolla DX 1.8. The battery is dead and when Use a stronger one and use cables to jump, the engine wants to turn over but won't. I tried spraying into carb with no results. Whats could be the cause?
Your garage looks fantastic and love the color scheme. Truly wish you were local. I am not a mechanic, but watch your channel hoping to find some idea to what could be going on with my newly acquired 07 LexusES350 with 150k mi -- steering is wacky and gas consumption is too high. Loses power when just starting out on a trip. Changed out the Power steering fluid. Battery is 5yrs old and tests good, and voltage regulator "fail". No lights other than the tire sensors. Already paid for a "pre purchase inspection" and they did alignment. Told me the problem with steering was "old hard tires". The tires are 4yrs old and look new.
I know I am about to start "throwing parts" at the car (with a different mechanic) starting with a new battery, and possibly alternator. And will probably take it to the dealership next week.
I usually drive older toyotas, which are pretty straight forward. Any suggestions about how to tell them to start out "to get to the root of the problem faster" would be greatly appreciated.
Make sure none of your calipers (or parking brakes) are partially seized. After a drive, measure the temp of each brake rotor with a laser thermometer. If one rotor is really hot, remove the caliper and inspect brakes. That would be easy to miss in a general inspection.
@@spelunkerd good rec. Failing rack?
@@spelunkerd I will do that straight away. Thank you!
@@medini2 So I would separate the problems and go at them one at a time. 1st your steering (bad rack, inner and/or outer tie rods, these are the common ones) depending on what you mean by whacky it could also be other things like low power steering fluid due to a leak, power steering pump going, brake calipers as spelunderd mentioned. Than the gas comsumption issue could be due to old spark plugs, Oxygen sensors, running too rich. I don't know where the battery falls into this! Bad battery is a simple test, if it keeps going bad when parked overnight than a parasitic draw could be causing it. GL
Have occasionally noticed a "squeaking" sound coming from a rear passenger side when backing out the driveway. The calipers/ or parking brake may be partially stuck.
I will try fixing that myself when we get a little good weather--didn't get to that yet.
I have a question i hope you can answer. Im having ABS Issues on a 2011 Optima EX Turbo. The can line reads 57.5 ohms. I was told to try disconnecting the Brake Vacuum pump, which i did. The reading changed from 57.5 to 58.1. I dont think this is enough to change much, but i could be wrong.
The next component on the ABS control module is the yaw sensor. The can wires gave me 120 ohms at the ABS module plug. And a power/ground reading gave me 0.0 ohms when testing for continuity. Before i put an ABS module in the car, are these readings correct?
Thank you for posting this really good video, please post more, btw your Garage looks nice now after a makeover, will i get a free sample of a box of avocado's now 🙂 please ? 🥰
Heck yeah! It's all up now, and your Avocado's are coming in,,,,,, right on. I've been watching you for about 5 years now! I'll be interested in those avo's! I'm here in Yuma, Az
Thank you stay tuned.
Excellent video very useful
So is there a next part to this video? I have the c1140 and c1000 only and i cant get it to go away! Also i had good readings on my steering angle sensor same as you did what do you think? Did you fix yours what was your issue?
Hermano I have an 2002 Mercedes ml320 I have no lights but from time to time my brakes automatically engage by themselves the Amber triangle blinks then goes away. When I turn of the car and restart it goes back to normal for less then a mile then brakes again
Shop looks great!! Not easy to tape and float at that height. 😂
I got a code for a steering wheel sensor but also get performance code for the lateral acceleration sensor would the steering angle sensor cause the lateral acceleration sensor to not work properly??
Shop looks good, thank you for your advise my yaw sensor was showing on the obd2 scanner -75.5 all the time parked and while driving, I bought one and I am gonna swpp it out, I check all wheel speed sensors and they were the same while driving, as well as the sas, changing date while driving. Thank you so much. what country do your avocados come from, I may be interested. God Bless. ty again. I will comment once the sensor is changed, the car FYI is a 2006 jeep liberty sport with 190000 miles going strong.
Frank
Love avocados!!! Great garage
Shop looks great. I'd buy avocados from ya but I'm across the country...
Hello, Im having an issue with my 2007 hyundai sonata v6 limited.
It happens randomly but its driving me crazy. Im going ti try to explain as best as I can. While driving all of the suddden my ESC OFF lights starts blinking while the car feels like is dragging its tires. Well now the minute I turn on my headlights or I flash my high beams it does it all over again. Also while that is happening which it last for a few seconds. I noticed a noise/buzz from under the steering wheel. Im scared of driving now because I dont want to gwt into an accident because I dont know when the car is going to act up or how bad it will do it.
Sounds like one or more of your Brake Calipers are locking up.
I remember when you said there was going to be a party at 1m subs.... Como miente le gente.
Ratchets, Wrenches and Avocados😊
We need some tips on keeping avocados fresh for longer! I buy them and they are shit in no time!
my scanner won't let me erase the codes until it's fixed.
Love your videos I’m zone 8b if I could grow avocado I would
I like avocados! :)
❤
👍👍👍