We're chartering a Lagoon 4000 for an upcoming family sailing trip and I've never skippered one. Your channel has been incredibly helpful. A huge thank you for putting together all of this content. The quality is fantastic, they are informative, and fun to watch. If I ever decide to make a purchase, your firm is at the top of my list.
Thank You, Joe Fox, These are the best learning RUclipss for Catamaran owners. Especially ones with a Lagoon 42 like myself. I have really enjoyed looking at and learning from your presentations. Please keep them coming. I would like to see a detailed RUclips from you on how to use the B&G systems aboard. Especially how to set up and use the Triton2 with the autopilot, AIS, and how to download updated software from B&G. The dummy version, step by step for how to do the downloads and then where to plug into the hardware on the boat! Another idea would be a run down on how and when to set up and use the water maker for those with one. Again Thank you for the informative presentations and keep them coming. Dan Henry DDS Pensacola
Thanks Dan, and thank you for your comment. All good stuff, which we aim to cover in coming episodes. So glad you are enjoying your Lagoon 42 - its a great model... recently named the WORLDS most popular cruising catamaran. Stunning stuff! Regards, Joe
Super! I got answers to all the questions I had! I sail the yacht. I take the catamaran for the second time. There were questions about mooring on the buoy. Watched the video ~ no questions asked! Thank you so much! Hello from Ukraine!
Fantastic overview. I own a 51 monohull , and am heading to take out a 50 cat on charter in Oct. This is an outstanding review of the techniques for both the captain and crew! Thank you!!!
I have tried this on my Leopard 44 and other boats and the main issue is the rubbing of the lines on the deck. Lots of noise and wear. So I ended up using the anchor bridle. At the moment I am thinking of adding a second shackle to the anchor bridle so it works without multiple ropes.
Thank you for the refresher, its been a long year and a half and these simple basics can be forgotten or wrongly done. Like incorrectly putting the bridle line around a stanchion or life line and putting undo stress on them, then needing a do over!
Hi Joe, Love your RUclips series and find them very informative and always pass them on to new crew before they come onboard. I have a 43 foot Catamaran and do a lot of sailing around the Whitsundays.I have found that using your method for set up I often get woken up in the night by the mooring ball knocking up against the hull.Do you have any suggestions. Thanks Rod
at 4:16, what is the smaller yellow float that you just seem to "steam" over, thought this was the "ball", or at least the rope you use to anchor to it!!- most sailing books talk about this and say you DON'T moor to this ball directly, but by a rope, a "painter", if that is the correct word here?; as this allows movement due to tide/ wind etc. as some of these moorings are only an engine block, chains, or drums of concrete, and any over-stress could release the anchor at the bottom of this ball ( the so called dragging anchor!!).
Hi again Andy, Good spot, this small yellow ball is connected to a small line. This is pulled up first with the boat hook, it is light and easy to lift. You then pull on this small "heaving" line to pull the larger heavier mooring line on board. Once set you can drop this line and ball back into the water so long as its short enough not to bump against the hulls.
I also enjoy your videos. As a Lagoon 42 owner I can relate to the actual configuration on the boat. For example, on the Lagoon 42, the forward cleats are in a position where the bridle lines will ride against the pulpit stanchions. If you run the bridle outboard of the pulpit then it will get caught on the navigation lights. Since you folks work with L42's what would you suggest to correct this problem with the Lagoon 42?
Great video! We’ve always run our mooring lines outside of pulpit along outside of bow which works great but is noisy. In the video, the mooring lines run over the deck inside the pulpit. Two questions: Does that risk damage to pulpit? Is that configuration less noisy at night?
Hi There, General advice would be to take the path of least resistance to minimise any undue pressure on the pulpit. The noise may be coming from the rubbing of the rope on the deck/hull/pulpit. If this is the case see if you can use softer rope that doesn't squeak under movement. JF
Eventually they will. And if the wind is high there will be noise from lines rubbing against the deck. I prefer to use the anchor bridle. But to be honest have not found the perfect way yet. Maybe I will be installing a second shackle for rope. Any ideas?
Thanks for this video and also the super helpful tip at the end about why it might be inconvenient to use a shackle when retrieving the bridle! Would there be any risks involved with having rope running against rope in this scenario? (Bridle rope against mooring ball rope?) I'm a novice with boating, but thinking to rock climbing experience where usually the tendency is to connect ropes to each other using carabiners in order to avoid potential risk of one rope cutting through another rope (or piece of webbing etc.). In this situation I can see that the ropes are super thick and also under water, and so maybe this would not be a significant risk? Thank you again for this info and this video series, super helpful!
What kind of line were you using? I know a lot of people use 3 strand nylon, but this looks like a more traditional mooring line? The boat looks to be about 7 meters across, so your advocating for a 10 meter arm, which means each line is about 20 meters? Any idea on the breaking strain on that line? The boats about 14 tonnes, right?
Super video. Very well explained. Thank you!! Just one question - are there any rules of thumb for the length of each of the two bridle lines? Guessing the two lines you used were about three times the boat’s beam.
Hi There, thanks for your comment. I set each bridle line at around 6-7 meters from the cleat in this video. Longer is better as this will reducing any unwanted swinging of the vessel by moving the pivot point forward. It also depends on your swinging room however as most moorings aren't built taking into account a long bridle set up. If there are other boats close by then you could pull it right in to say 3-4 meters, though like the vessel may not sit as good as having a 10meter line on each side. As a rule of thumb I would at least 1.5 x the distance from cleat to cleat for bridle length.
Thanks for such a clear and easy to understand instructional video. Just one question. Would it also be OK to use just the 1 mooring line which you run from the port bow cleat, through the loop on the mooring line so that it can run free and then tie off on the starboard bow cleat?
Hi there, Thanks for your comment. This is a good question and one that I get asked a lot. If you rig it like this, then there will be a tendency for the mooring line loop to slide back and forth along your nice boat line. As well as wearing out the line, it is also very likely that the boat will swing off to the side, get caught by the wind and because there is nothing pulling in the leeward hull, it will sit askew. Unfortunately this method, although so much simpler to set up, wouldn't work :(
Great video thanks. We have a Lagoon 42 and always worry about swing length in tight spots like Refuge or America Bay so I hesitate top use a bridle. I often find that the cat will swing differently to a mono hull next to us and the boats can hit. Any tips on this? I also would love some tips on how to stop the buoy banging against the hull in the middle of the night!!
Hi David, thanks for your comment. A simple bridle will really help to reduce the swinging as it moves the centre of effort forward of the two hulls that had a lot of windage. If you run your mooring line thought he spare roller on the crossbeam, you'll find the boat will swing more than with a bridle. Even a short bridle will help reduce the swinging and make it act more like a monohull. Hard to avoid the mooring ball bumping on the hull in very light or no wind. This the nature of the beast unfortunately however in this case you could pull the mooring line as tight as possible to hold the ball between the hulls (without using a bridle). ONLY do this if there is NO wind and keep an eye on the tide (you don't want start lifting the mooring block off the ground ;)
Very nice videos! Thank you for sharing. I have two questions (i am still learning!): is it best practice to tighten a line onto another line for chafing issues? The second thing i dont understand is the need of a retrieving line to the bridal: the bridal itself is atatched to the boat on two points. As long as the bridal is double the length of the width of the boat (it is usually), it will be easy to pull the attachment point to one hull, right? Have a good one!
Excellent video series. Joe is very thorough, and explains everything clearly. Fantastic.
Glad you enjoy the videos, lovely to hear your feedback.
Regards, Joe
We're chartering a Lagoon 4000 for an upcoming family sailing trip and I've never skippered one. Your channel has been incredibly helpful. A huge thank you for putting together all of this content. The quality is fantastic, they are informative, and fun to watch. If I ever decide to make a purchase, your firm is at the top of my list.
Thank you for your kind words, we are glad we could help.
If only everyone could explain things as well as Joe fox.
Outstanding training provided on various catamaran sailing techniques!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you Joe Fox!!!!!!
Thank You, Joe Fox,
These are the best learning RUclipss for Catamaran owners. Especially ones with a Lagoon 42 like myself. I have really enjoyed looking at and learning from your presentations. Please keep them coming. I would like to see a detailed RUclips from you on how to use the B&G systems aboard. Especially how to set up and use the Triton2 with the autopilot, AIS, and how to download updated software from B&G. The dummy version, step by step for how to do the downloads and then where to plug into the hardware on the boat!
Another idea would be a run down on how and when to set up and use the water maker for those with one.
Again Thank you for the informative presentations and keep them coming.
Dan Henry DDS Pensacola
Thanks Dan, and thank you for your comment.
All good stuff, which we aim to cover in coming episodes. So glad you are enjoying your Lagoon 42 - its a great model... recently named the WORLDS most popular cruising catamaran. Stunning stuff!
Regards, Joe
Fantastic mooring tutorial on a Catamaran. Thank You.
Thanks for your comment, glad you enjoy :)
Rgds, Joe
Super! I got answers to all the questions I had! I sail the yacht. I take the catamaran for the second time. There were questions about mooring on the buoy. Watched the video ~ no questions asked! Thank you so much! Hello from Ukraine!
Great cat tidbits! Very concise and instructive!
Thank you
Best one yet! Thank you for all your efforts, this is great learning for me.
Great thanks Alex we are glad you liked it!
Terrific video and many thanks
Fantastic overview. I own a 51 monohull , and am heading to take out a 50 cat on charter in Oct. This is an outstanding review of the techniques for both the captain and crew! Thank you!!!
Thanks Jeffrey, so glad you found this useful.
Really good and educational video, greetings from Brazil !
Excellent series of instruction. I'm a novice and haven't sailed much and this is a great review! Thank you!!
Thanks a lot for the great and helpful videos. All the best from Germany, Matthias
I have tried this on my Leopard 44 and other boats and the main issue is the rubbing of the lines on the deck. Lots of noise and wear.
So I ended up using the anchor bridle.
At the moment I am thinking of adding a second shackle to the anchor bridle so it works without multiple ropes.
Thank you for the refresher, its been a long year and a half and these simple basics can be forgotten or wrongly done. Like incorrectly putting the bridle line around a stanchion or life line and putting undo stress on them, then needing a do over!
Glad we could help!
Very useful! Well done!
Wonderful instruction and good to know as you never know when you might have to do this by yourself.
That was a fantastic and easy to remember procedure. Thanks.
Very helpful and well done.
Excellent job! Great breakdown!
I liked that, that was classy and informative!
Excellent instructions
Love the hands on instruction.
Question: Is there a way to just get catamaran certified? I am disabled and learning on a keel only vessel is hard?
Nicely explained!!!
Hi Joe,
Love your RUclips series and find them very informative and always pass them on to new crew before they come onboard.
I have a 43 foot Catamaran and do a lot of sailing around the Whitsundays.I have found that using your method for set up I often get woken up in the night by the mooring ball knocking up against the hull.Do you have any suggestions.
Thanks Rod
Excellent!!!!
Great information in all your tutorial video’s
great job, you guys are top notch.
Thanks @eatmoreavocados were glad you enjoy.
I also like Avocados :)
Rgds, Joe
Well done, thanks!
at 4:16, what is the smaller yellow float that you just seem to "steam" over, thought this was the "ball", or at least the rope you use to anchor to it!!- most sailing books talk about this and say you DON'T moor to this ball directly, but by a rope, a "painter", if that is the correct word here?; as this allows movement due to tide/ wind etc. as some of these moorings are only an engine block, chains, or drums of concrete, and any over-stress could release the anchor at the bottom of this ball ( the so called dragging anchor!!).
Hi again Andy, Good spot, this small yellow ball is connected to a small line. This is pulled up first with the boat hook, it is light and easy to lift. You then pull on this small "heaving" line to pull the larger heavier mooring line on board. Once set you can drop this line and ball back into the water so long as its short enough not to bump against the hulls.
I also enjoy your videos. As a Lagoon 42 owner I can relate to the actual configuration on the boat. For example, on the Lagoon 42, the forward cleats are in a position where the bridle lines will ride against the pulpit stanchions. If you run the bridle outboard of the pulpit then it will get caught on the navigation lights. Since you folks work with L42's what would you suggest to correct this problem with the Lagoon 42?
My sentiments exactly Kelly.
Don't get a Lagoon? Sorry mate, had to.... :)
Edit: whoops, looks like a Lagoon shop....
Nicely Done
Great video! We’ve always run our mooring lines outside of pulpit along outside of bow which works great but is noisy. In the video, the mooring lines run over the deck inside the pulpit. Two questions: Does that risk damage to pulpit? Is that configuration less noisy at night?
Hi There,
General advice would be to take the path of least resistance to minimise any undue pressure on the pulpit. The noise may be coming from the rubbing of the rope on the deck/hull/pulpit. If this is the case see if you can use softer rope that doesn't squeak under movement.
JF
I've always run my mooring lines on the outside of the pulpit and hull. I was also wondering if the way shown in this video is indeed the right way.
Great Vid! Thanks!
Nicely done!
Thanks.
Great lesson!!
Thanks! 😃
Love your videos, thanks!
Thanks, we are glad you are enjoying them!
Great info
Usually the mooring ball line are grown with sea element and the line surface are sharp....would it cause shaft on our boatline over rubbing ?
Nice video, specially showing the singlehanded technique. But I wonder if the lines like this they won't damage the deck by chafing. Tks.
I use a section of fire hose for mine when moored for a long time. For one night it's fine.
Eventually they will. And if the wind is high there will be noise from lines rubbing against the deck.
I prefer to use the anchor bridle. But to be honest have not found the perfect way yet. Maybe I will be installing a second shackle for rope.
Any ideas?
Very nice, thanks…
Thanks for this video and also the super helpful tip at the end about why it might be inconvenient to use a shackle when retrieving the bridle! Would there be any risks involved with having rope running against rope in this scenario? (Bridle rope against mooring ball rope?) I'm a novice with boating, but thinking to rock climbing experience where usually the tendency is to connect ropes to each other using carabiners in order to avoid potential risk of one rope cutting through another rope (or piece of webbing etc.). In this situation I can see that the ropes are super thick and also under water, and so maybe this would not be a significant risk? Thank you again for this info and this video series, super helpful!
very much my thoughts. Did you get an answer yet?
at 11:12 you NEED to be mindfull of going UNDER the jib furling line, as you don't want to get caught on this when the bridle gets let out!!
Correct, whether its under or over, so long as both bridle lines and the mooring line take the same route there should be no problem :)
What kind of line were you using? I know a lot of people use 3 strand nylon, but this looks like a more traditional mooring line? The boat looks to be about 7 meters across, so your advocating for a 10 meter arm, which means each line is about 20 meters?
Any idea on the breaking strain on that line? The boats about 14 tonnes, right?
If the mooring line has not got a noose and it’s just straight line how are we going to make the triangle
Super video. Very well explained. Thank you!! Just one question - are there any rules of thumb for the length of each of the two bridle lines? Guessing the two lines you used were about three times the boat’s beam.
Hi There, thanks for your comment. I set each bridle line at around 6-7 meters from the cleat in this video. Longer is better as this will reducing any unwanted swinging of the vessel by moving the pivot point forward. It also depends on your swinging room however as most moorings aren't built taking into account a long bridle set up. If there are other boats close by then you could pull it right in to say 3-4 meters, though like the vessel may not sit as good as having a 10meter line on each side.
As a rule of thumb I would at least 1.5 x the distance from cleat to cleat for bridle length.
Thanks for such a clear and easy to understand instructional video. Just one question.
Would it also be OK to use just the 1 mooring line which you run from the port bow cleat, through the loop on the mooring line so that it can run free and then tie off on the starboard bow cleat?
Hi there, Thanks for your comment. This is a good question and one that I get asked a lot. If you rig it like this, then there will be a tendency for the mooring line loop to slide back and forth along your nice boat line. As well as wearing out the line, it is also very likely that the boat will swing off to the side, get caught by the wind and because there is nothing pulling in the leeward hull, it will sit askew. Unfortunately this method, although so much simpler to set up, wouldn't work :(
Great video thanks. We have a Lagoon 42 and always worry about swing length in tight spots like Refuge or America Bay so I hesitate top use a bridle. I often find that the cat will swing differently to a mono hull next to us and the boats can hit. Any tips on this? I also would love some tips on how to stop the buoy banging against the hull in the middle of the night!!
Hi David, thanks for your comment. A simple bridle will really help to reduce the swinging as it moves the centre of effort forward of the two hulls that had a lot of windage. If you run your mooring line thought he spare roller on the crossbeam, you'll find the boat will swing more than with a bridle. Even a short bridle will help reduce the swinging and make it act more like a monohull. Hard to avoid the mooring ball bumping on the hull in very light or no wind. This the nature of the beast unfortunately however in this case you could pull the mooring line as tight as possible to hold the ball between the hulls (without using a bridle). ONLY do this if there is NO wind and keep an eye on the tide (you don't want start lifting the mooring block off the ground ;)
Would this bridle method work with a "sand line" (a weighted line going to a stern loop)?
Very nice videos! Thank you for sharing. I have two questions (i am still learning!): is it best practice to tighten a line onto another line for chafing issues? The second thing i dont understand is the need of a retrieving line to the bridal: the bridal itself is atatched to the boat on two points. As long as the bridal is double the length of the width of the boat (it is usually), it will be easy to pull the attachment point to one hull, right?
Have a good one!
Isn't the goal to pull the bridle hook back to the roller though?
Super
Top
People should not just give verbal wind speed. Back the speed up with visual wind speed from the gauges.
9:44 Cleating is poor!
Noticed that as well. Proper cleat hitch and Flemish.