Good video. What I do is go by the tire manufacturers weight/PSI chart. What they say is for a certain amount of weight on the tire you need to run a certain amount of pressure. You don’t always need the max pressure in the tire unless you have a weight on it at it’s maximum weight carrying capacity. The chart shows if you have a different lower weight on the tires you can drop the pressure to what the chart says. The best way to do this is to actually take your vehicle to some Cat weight scales at a truck stop and have each axle weighed. That way you know exactly how much weight will be on each tire and be able to set the correct pressure. Just my way of doing it. Take care. Tom
Your way is the perfect method. Going on a scale would give you the perfect reading. I am usually okay with a stiffer ride so I go with higher pressure sacrifice a bit of comfort for less pressure monitoring, if that makes sense. I find with these RVs especially the 23-28 footers, they are heavy enough to handle a close to max E rated tire. When you get that sweet spot the ride does get more comfortable. Only thing to mention in all this is heat build up. The tires do perform cooler with higher pressure (In theory, makes sense logically) Thank you for your insight, I appreciate it.
Please don't! Other than showing you where the vehicle manufacturer's recommended pressures are on the stickers, this is dangerously incorrect nonsense.
@@brianb-p6586 I have a 1987 Mallard class A. Their tire placard under the dash has 65 PSI for 8R 19.5 tires. Nothing about front and back, or min/ max.
@@DUCKSAREEVILLLLLLLL The placard appears to be specifying the same pressure for front and rear, which is not unusual. There is no minimum or maximum, because it is a recommendation for the best pressure, which is high enough to provide sufficient capacity, not too high for ride comfort or traction, and within the maximum allowed inflation pressure of the tires.
@@brianb-p6586To add to the confusion, The 1987 Mallard manual states, "inflate tires to recommended pressure as indicated on the side of the tire or tire manufacturer's instruction booklet." I think they used that language to try to evade lawsuits.
I have a 1976 Class C. The door recommends 60 psi. However, I think that was for a bias ply tire, not a radial (radial can be 5 psi higher). I have new E rated tire capable of 80 psi max cold. That is not needed for the weight I am carrying. I have the front at 65 and the rear duals also. Safety was briefly discussed when considering your tire pressure on the max number. When your load does not warrant that high of pressure you are compromising the steering and overall handling of your RV. Set the tire pressure According to the weight distribution at each corner of your RV and your tire manufacturer numbers (google search for the chart). Fuel savings will be obtained at the max psi, but driving safely will be affected.
Hey Tim, That is good advice and very true. I have found it does steer better with 65 to 70 PSI. Generally speaking tho I have found RVs drive pretty okay with high 75 PSI on E rated tires. They are usually pretty heavy so the higher PSI doesn't seem to affect it as much as an empty truck bed running high PSI. The other thing I need to be careful about is recommending to low of PSI to run on a public forum. For the Thor 28a and 23a, I can say 75 PSI is a good general running PSI. To go lower, I would recommend using a scale and doing some math so that you are not running too low. If you intend to tow, or have a full load of passengers, I would recommend going with higher PSI also due to the extra load weight.
I find both are okay. However, I have an Aramada SUV with plastic/rubber valves that failed eventually by cracking. I have never had metal valves give me any issues.
The correct inflation pressure has nothing to do with the class of motorhome. Car, truck, motorhome, bus... it's all the same tire technology and the same process for determining the minimum inflation pressure (for safe operation of the tires) and the optimal inflation pressure (for performance of the vehicle).
@brianb-p6586 OK but why does everyone have a different take on it I mean everyone makes the tire psi out on travel trailers and motorhomes seem like it's rocket science ! You hardly ever see or hear two people say the same thing regarding it ! It's no wonder that so many people tires are exploding going down the road as some even result in death because they didn't know what psi pressure to use in their tires !
@@davenstorm7271 people have different takes because they have different levels of understanding - it's still the same technology, and the same result. It's not rocket science, and one minute added to this video could have clearly covered establishing minimum safe pressure... but he didn't address that at all.
@brianb-p6586 That is correct It's not rocket science I simply stated that people make it out to be that way , different levels of understanding us totally correct . As mine is limited to none . So what is the correct psi to run on my class C my inside door says 65 psi for the front and 80 psi for my back 4 tires . Perhaps you should make a video on this subject cause it would help alot of people out including myself .
Always follow you vehicle sticker look to seek if they have any changes on their site to see if they have any changes. Never make changes on your on. Maybe this may feel better or believe that you won’t get a blow out. Tire pressure goes up when the tire temperature goes up. The tires are designed for this. You can also goto the tires manufacturer site or call them and they can give you more info.
Good advice . There is cold and hot running temps. On the tire itself and the vehicle sticker do refer tires when they are cold. Manufacturer site is probably the most reliable.
If you check & top tires in cooler weather & head to warmer weather tire pressure will vary by as much as 5 or more pounds...I run all tires on my Class C at 60psi.
Great info. I usually find that when winter hits here, tires need to be inflated approx 5 psi give or take. One had a super fast cold front and had close to 8 PSI dip. Thanks for putting down what you run Tires at - this really adds value to the discussion.
On older motor homes your recommended pressure decal/sticker inside the door may not be accurate. My 2002 E350 majestic 23a says 60 psi inside the door. That is not enough as I have basically the same rv as you and similar tires that can go to 80 psi so I would run my tires same as what you recommend.
60 PSI might be too low. At a minimum I would say 65 PSI for 23 footers. However if you want the most efficient ride (not most comfortable), running 75 PSI all around as worked great for me.
The maximum allowed inflation pressure is not the correct inflation pressure unless you are running the tires near their load limit. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using 60 PSI in tires which can go to 80 PSI, as long as 60 PSI is sufficient for the load on the tires.
@@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow The required inflation pressure has nothing to do with the body length. If you are not basing the required inflation on the load (weight) supported by the tires you are just babbling dangerous nonsense.
@brianb-p6586 Pretty sure I mentioned weight somewhere in relation to PSI or something along those lines. That being said, here is my long winded reply. I recommended 75 PSI. Both the 23 footer and the 28 footers use the same E rated tires. Yes the 28 footer is heavier, the 23 footer is lighter. But they use the same e tires with a MAX rating of 80 PSI. So when I recommend 75 PSI it is a pretty safe number to use. This would apply to both the 28 footer and the 23 footer RVs. The 28 footer is heavier. You could run 80 PSI max but it would be a harsher ride. I have found 75 to be a good PSI. FYI... I have personally done a LOT of trips with this PSI setup personally. This is advice from my experiences so take that as what it is worth to you. To me it's real world examples, road tested. Yes you would need a scale to be 100 percent accurate but this is a good ball park. An informed safe logical guess, which is better than a blind guess.
@brianb-p6586 What you typed sounds correct to me. I didn't say you couldn't use 60 PSI, just didn't recommend it. Not enough data to recommend 60 PSI. I recommend at least 65 PSI. 23 footer RVs are usually pretty heavy. Without knowing specific details or using a scale. I would recommend at least 65 PSI so that I don't end up giving someone under flated advice. Erroring more on the over flation is better than under. I have own multiple 23 footers and 28 footers. I can say that in my experience, they have all driven fine at 75 PSI. You could use a scale be more accurate tho.
The term is "inflation" (rather than "how much PSI"). It's "air pressure", not "PSI pressure". You're checking "pressure", not PSI. If you use a tape measure with inches marked on it to see how long something is, you're checking the length, not the "inches". In the dual set, the tire which is further in is the "inboard" or "inside" tire, not the "back" tire. The one that you can see out the "outboard" or "outer" tire, not the "front" tire. "Back" and "front" refer to the ends of the vehicle.
You are not wrong, but I guess you can say I was using layman's terms. I used right and wrong PSI because when you hit a gas station, but a tire aire pressure guage it will be marked often in PSI with little lines. You must know this. When referring to the rear tires using 'Rear inner' and 'rear outer' tires is probably not the correct technical term but it is really that hard to understand? If someone asked you what PSI are your tires at? You wouldn't get it, you really wouldn't understand? When I get oil changes, after the oil change, I usually get asked 'What PSI do you want your tires at?" I normally interpret that as... how much air pressure do you want in your tires.
@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow calling an outside rear tire a "front" tire is not a layman's term - it's just confusing nonsense. You are presenting yourself as an expert, so you should do better than babbling like someone who knows nothing
@@brianb-p6586 I wouldn't say I am an expert, that would be too far. I just know a few things and have used RVs more than most people. The video wasn't that deep, it was really a high level explanation, I might have said some words wrong from the looks of it, but generally if you got common sense it probably worked out in the brain. That being said it seems you my friend are clearly an expert. If you need tire advice, please reach out to @brian-p6586 for tire advice. This person is clearly knows what he is talking about. Just be clear on your words.
My chart inside my motorhome A class says 85psi but tires max psi is at 120 cold p. But i have them at 90psi and seems to do fine would u run with more psi ? Or leave them as is
If your Motorhome is saying 85 PSI and you are within weights. That should be okay. You could go higher technically and will be okay up to 110PSI cold of course, but it will be a rough ride. If the manufacturer is recommending 85 PSI, then 90 PSI should be fine on your tires. (G rated tires I assume) Especially if you have driven it around and it feels normal. To get a 100% definitive answer you would need to hope on a scale, but you should be fine.
Is this on your driver side door panel? If it says 60PSI that would be a safe cold pressure to use, but its slightly more complicated than that. There are a lot of unknown factors like what weight you will be at fully loaded. (water, gear, people, food etc.) You mentioned that your tires say up to 110psi which means they are Load Range G tires. The ones in my video are Load Range E which go up to 80 PSI. If your tires are load range G and can go up to 110 PSI cold. You are okay to go up to 110 PSI without concern. This will likely be a harsher ride, but guaranteed to meet specification. Might get more wear in the center of the tire also due to high inflation. My best guess based on the information you gave me which is a 33ft dually motorhome with a sticker that says 60 PSI, running G rated tires. I would say 80 PSI on those tires would be well within a good safety zone margin. Not that you couldn't run them lower, but that would be a good safe guess without having to hop on a scale and get proper weights. Hope that helps bud.
Your theory is nonsense, and since you don't understand anything about tire inflation, you should not pretend that you do and hand out dangerously wrong advice. Correct inflation cannot be determined without determining the load (weight) supported by each tire and looking up the minimum required inflation pressure in a load/inflation chart. If you're not going to do that, do not go lower than the recommended pressures.
If you want the perfect inflation for the weight yes you will need scale. If you look at my recommendations it is usually 75 PSI. It is what I run on Thor 23a and 28a motorhomes I have owned and used extensively. Its not like I am giving advice based off of nothing. You will not be be going lower minimum requirements if you use 75 PSI. Is it the most perfect efficient setting? Likely not but you will drive safely from A to B. If you want something perfect inflation yes please use a scale. The issue is a lot of people just don't use a scale. If you don't use a scale better to be a little higher on air pressure I would say so you are not running under inflation. But of course don't exceed the Tire rating. Normally I see E rated tires 80 PSI MAX rating on the Thor 23 and 28 footers.
@@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow you say "You will not be be going lower minimum requirements if you use 75 PSI", but you may be, depending on your RV weight and tire size. On my motorhome, 75 PSI would be well below the minimum for adequate load capacity. If you are going to give advice which is only valid for one specific make and model of motorhome on one specific size of tire, you should say that.
@@brianb-p6586 Since your motorhome at 75PSI is well below the minimum. What motorhome do you own? Is it a Class A?? If you look at motorhomes in the class C range. They generally have E rated tires. If you drive a motorhome, put them up to 75 PSI. That is 5 PSI close to the max. Motorhomes have a lot of weight. The two motorhomes I listed 23a and 28a Majestic. A decent majority Class C RVs are pretty much in those size ranges or close to it. - Least here in North America There are 19 footers and 21 footers too. Those can also be ran at Max or close to max rating for E rated tires also. I believe the 19,21,23 Thor Majestic models recommend 65 PSI for the rear tires. - I prefer a stiffer ride so I run them higher. You replied with 'If you are going to give advice which is only valid for one specific make and model of motorhome on one specific size of tire, you should say that' ... If the RV in this video is Thor Majestic 23a... and let's say you are looking for info on another brand or model that is also 23 feet. I can bet their weight ratings are pretty close. This would apply for most RVs in the same size range. So as a general reference point it isn't bad at all. I have said already that if you want to be super accurate you need to use a scale. There are RV fleets that run their tires like this with RVs going over 200,000Kms and running. You can disagree with that all you want. Honestly if you don't care about perfection, just put the tires up close to max or max rating. You will be fine. - In my experience max or close to max rating for R tires while RV or Towing has been fine... and I have towed and RVed a lot. - more than most people. When I originally posted this video, it was to show someone how to check their tire pressure this Thor Majestic 23a and how to fill it with air. Somehow it got complicated. The main reason why I run my tires higher or close to max even if the scale tells me otherwise is because of heat build up. For long distance traveling especially in hot weather, it will help for tire heat build up. Figured I would mention that just incase.
Yes, @@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow , it's very clear that you don't know anything about any RV other than a couple models of one brand of one type of motorhome, on one specific chassis, with one size of tires.... so stop making global declarations about what tire pressure an RV needs. Even other motorhomes of the same type (Class C) and about the same size may use different sizes of tires when built on other chassis. Yes, I have a Class A with larger tires but much more weight than a 23-foot unit, so it uses higher tire pressure than yours. I don't tell people that every motorhome should use the pressure that I use. If you had stayed with showing someone how to check their tire pressure this Thor Majestic 23a and how to fill it with air, and not made sweeping claims about what is right for every other motorhome, it would have been much better.
I have a $90 Amazon tpms system in my converted ambulance. It's wireless, sensors are in the valve caps, shows pressure and temps, and has pressure and temp alarm. Pretty awesome! It was great to have it on our recent 6k mile trip. Blueskysea is the brand. There might be others.
You are absolutely correct. Thankyou
You are welcome. I appreciate your support👍🙌
Thank you for this and I completely agree! I was always taught growing up, you never max out on anything!
Thank you for sharing to show that I am not crazy.
Good video. What I do is go by the tire manufacturers weight/PSI chart. What they say is for a certain amount of weight on the tire you need to run a certain amount of pressure. You don’t always need the max pressure in the tire unless you have a weight on it at it’s maximum weight carrying capacity. The chart shows if you have a different lower weight on the tires you can drop the pressure to what the chart says. The best way to do this is to actually take your vehicle to some Cat weight scales at a truck stop and have each axle weighed. That way you know exactly how much weight will be on each tire and be able to set the correct pressure. Just my way of doing it. Take care. Tom
Your way is the perfect method. Going on a scale would give you the perfect reading. I am usually okay with a stiffer ride so I go with higher pressure sacrifice a bit of comfort for less pressure monitoring, if that makes sense. I find with these RVs especially the 23-28 footers, they are heavy enough to handle a close to max E rated tire. When you get that sweet spot the ride does get more comfortable. Only thing to mention in all this is heat build up. The tires do perform cooler with higher pressure (In theory, makes sense logically)
Thank you for your insight, I appreciate it.
Thank you very clear and understandable. Checking my class C pressure today and will follow your advice.
Glad it was helpful!
Please don't! Other than showing you where the vehicle manufacturer's recommended pressures are on the stickers, this is dangerously incorrect nonsense.
@@brianb-p6586 I have a 1987 Mallard class A. Their tire placard under the dash has 65 PSI for 8R 19.5 tires. Nothing about front and back, or min/ max.
@@DUCKSAREEVILLLLLLLL The placard appears to be specifying the same pressure for front and rear, which is not unusual. There is no minimum or maximum, because it is a recommendation for the best pressure, which is high enough to provide sufficient capacity, not too high for ride comfort or traction, and within the maximum allowed inflation pressure of the tires.
@@brianb-p6586To add to the confusion, The 1987 Mallard manual states, "inflate tires to recommended pressure as indicated on the side of the tire or tire manufacturer's instruction booklet."
I think they used that language to try to evade lawsuits.
I have a 1976 Class C. The door recommends 60 psi. However, I think that was for a bias ply tire, not a radial (radial can be 5 psi higher). I have new E rated tire capable of 80 psi max cold. That is not needed for the weight I am carrying. I have the front at 65 and the rear duals also. Safety was briefly discussed when considering your tire pressure on the max number. When your load does not warrant that high of pressure you are compromising the steering and overall handling of your RV. Set the tire pressure According to the weight distribution at each corner of your RV and your tire manufacturer numbers (google search for the chart). Fuel savings will be obtained at the max psi, but driving safely will be affected.
Hey Tim,
That is good advice and very true. I have found it does steer better with 65 to 70 PSI.
Generally speaking tho I have found RVs drive pretty okay with high 75 PSI on E rated tires. They are usually pretty heavy so the higher PSI doesn't seem to affect it as much as an empty truck bed running high PSI.
The other thing I need to be careful about is recommending to low of PSI to run on a public forum. For the Thor 28a and 23a, I can say 75 PSI is a good general running PSI. To go lower, I would recommend using a scale and doing some math so that you are not running too low.
If you intend to tow, or have a full load of passengers, I would recommend going with higher PSI also due to the extra load weight.
I also keep the tire pressure a bit lower to give it a smoother ride. I see that you have the metal tire rim valves which are better than the plastic.
I find both are okay. However, I have an Aramada SUV with plastic/rubber valves that failed eventually by cracking. I have never had metal valves give me any issues.
great video. thanks
Thank you, glad the video was useful. 👍
Great video bro ! It's hard to find any videos on a class C motorhome on psi for the tires !
Thanks for the kind words bud.
The correct inflation pressure has nothing to do with the class of motorhome. Car, truck, motorhome, bus... it's all the same tire technology and the same process for determining the minimum inflation pressure (for safe operation of the tires) and the optimal inflation pressure (for performance of the vehicle).
@brianb-p6586 OK but why does everyone have a different take on it I mean everyone makes the tire psi out on travel trailers and motorhomes seem like it's rocket science ! You hardly ever see or hear two people say the same thing regarding it ! It's no wonder that so many people tires are exploding going down the road as some even result in death because they didn't know what psi pressure to use in their tires !
@@davenstorm7271 people have different takes because they have different levels of understanding - it's still the same technology, and the same result.
It's not rocket science, and one minute added to this video could have clearly covered establishing minimum safe pressure... but he didn't address that at all.
@brianb-p6586 That is correct It's not rocket science I simply stated that people make it out to be that way , different levels of understanding us totally correct . As mine is limited to none . So what is the correct psi to run on my class C my inside door says 65 psi for the front and 80 psi for my back 4 tires . Perhaps you should make a video on this subject cause it would help alot of people out including myself .
Always follow you vehicle sticker look to seek if they have any changes on their site to see if they have any changes. Never make changes on your on. Maybe this may feel better or believe that you won’t get a blow out. Tire pressure goes up when the tire temperature goes up. The tires are designed for this. You can also goto the tires manufacturer site or call them and they can give you more info.
Good advice . There is cold and hot running temps. On the tire itself and the vehicle sticker do refer tires when they are cold. Manufacturer site is probably the most reliable.
Thank you so much. I’m going to look inside my door for the psi. Very helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
If you check & top tires in cooler weather & head to warmer weather tire pressure will vary by as much as 5 or more pounds...I run all tires on my Class C at 60psi.
Great info. I usually find that when winter hits here, tires need to be inflated approx 5 psi give or take. One had a super fast cold front and had close to 8 PSI dip.
Thanks for putting down what you run Tires at - this really adds value to the discussion.
Thank you
You're welcome 👍
On older motor homes your recommended pressure decal/sticker inside the door may not be accurate. My 2002 E350 majestic 23a says 60 psi inside the door. That is not enough as I have basically the same rv as you and similar tires that can go to 80 psi so I would run my tires same as what you recommend.
60 PSI might be too low. At a minimum I would say 65 PSI for 23 footers. However if you want the most efficient ride (not most comfortable), running 75 PSI all around as worked great for me.
The maximum allowed inflation pressure is not the correct inflation pressure unless you are running the tires near their load limit. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using 60 PSI in tires which can go to 80 PSI, as long as 60 PSI is sufficient for the load on the tires.
@@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow The required inflation pressure has nothing to do with the body length. If you are not basing the required inflation on the load (weight) supported by the tires you are just babbling dangerous nonsense.
@brianb-p6586 Pretty sure I mentioned weight somewhere in relation to PSI or something along those lines. That being said, here is my long winded reply.
I recommended 75 PSI. Both the 23 footer and the 28 footers use the same E rated tires. Yes the 28 footer is heavier, the 23 footer is lighter. But they use the same e tires with a MAX rating of 80 PSI. So when I recommend 75 PSI it is a pretty safe number to use. This would apply to both the 28 footer and the 23 footer RVs. The 28 footer is heavier.
You could run 80 PSI max but it would be a harsher ride. I have found 75 to be a good PSI. FYI... I have personally done a LOT of trips with this PSI setup personally. This is advice from my experiences so take that as what it is worth to you. To me it's real world examples, road tested.
Yes you would need a scale to be 100 percent accurate but this is a good ball park. An informed safe logical guess, which is better than a blind guess.
@brianb-p6586 What you typed sounds correct to me. I didn't say you couldn't use 60 PSI, just didn't recommend it. Not enough data to recommend 60 PSI.
I recommend at least 65 PSI. 23 footer RVs are usually pretty heavy. Without knowing specific details or using a scale. I would recommend at least 65 PSI so that I don't end up giving someone under flated advice. Erroring more on the over flation is better than under.
I have own multiple 23 footers and 28 footers. I can say that in my experience, they have all driven fine at 75 PSI. You could use a scale be more accurate tho.
The term is "inflation" (rather than "how much PSI"). It's "air pressure", not "PSI pressure". You're checking "pressure", not PSI. If you use a tape measure with inches marked on it to see how long something is, you're checking the length, not the "inches".
In the dual set, the tire which is further in is the "inboard" or "inside" tire, not the "back" tire. The one that you can see out the "outboard" or "outer" tire, not the "front" tire. "Back" and "front" refer to the ends of the vehicle.
You are not wrong, but I guess you can say I was using layman's terms.
I used right and wrong PSI because when you hit a gas station, but a tire aire pressure guage it will be marked often in PSI with little lines. You must know this.
When referring to the rear tires using 'Rear inner' and 'rear outer' tires is probably not the correct technical term but it is really that hard to understand?
If someone asked you what PSI are your tires at? You wouldn't get it, you really wouldn't understand?
When I get oil changes, after the oil change, I usually get asked 'What PSI do you want your tires at?" I normally interpret that as... how much air pressure do you want in your tires.
@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow calling an outside rear tire a "front" tire is not a layman's term - it's just confusing nonsense.
You are presenting yourself as an expert, so you should do better than babbling like someone who knows nothing
@@brianb-p6586 I wouldn't say I am an expert, that would be too far. I just know a few things and have used RVs more than most people. The video wasn't that deep, it was really a high level explanation, I might have said some words wrong from the looks of it, but generally if you got common sense it probably worked out in the brain.
That being said it seems you my friend are clearly an expert. If you need tire advice, please reach out to @brian-p6586 for tire advice. This person is clearly knows what he is talking about. Just be clear on your words.
@@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow if you count on people using common sense, then they don't need you or this video at all.
No one needs this video. You are a funny guy@@brianb-p6586
My chart inside my motorhome A class says 85psi but tires max psi is at 120 cold p. But i have them at 90psi and seems to do fine would u run with more psi ? Or leave them as is
If your Motorhome is saying 85 PSI and you are within weights. That should be okay. You could go higher technically and will be okay up to 110PSI cold of course, but it will be a rough ride. If the manufacturer is recommending 85 PSI, then 90 PSI should be fine on your tires. (G rated tires I assume) Especially if you have driven it around and it feels normal.
To get a 100% definitive answer you would need to hope on a scale, but you should be fine.
@@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow thanks appreciate it
My 33 ft dual tire motorhome's sticker says 60 psi but the tires say up to 110psi. Which psi should I use fully loaded?
Is this on your driver side door panel? If it says 60PSI that would be a safe cold pressure to use, but its slightly more complicated than that. There are a lot of unknown factors like what weight you will be at fully loaded. (water, gear, people, food etc.)
You mentioned that your tires say up to 110psi which means they are Load Range G tires. The ones in my video are Load Range E which go up to 80 PSI.
If your tires are load range G and can go up to 110 PSI cold. You are okay to go up to 110 PSI without concern. This will likely be a harsher ride, but guaranteed to meet specification. Might get more wear in the center of the tire also due to high inflation.
My best guess based on the information you gave me which is a 33ft dually motorhome with a sticker that says 60 PSI, running G rated tires. I would say 80 PSI on those tires would be well within a good safety zone margin.
Not that you couldn't run them lower, but that would be a good safe guess without having to hop on a scale and get proper weights.
Hope that helps bud.
@@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow Yes it was on the driver side door panel. I took your recommendation and went for 80 psi. Thanks so much for the info.
Your theory is nonsense, and since you don't understand anything about tire inflation, you should not pretend that you do and hand out dangerously wrong advice.
Correct inflation cannot be determined without determining the load (weight) supported by each tire and looking up the minimum required inflation pressure in a load/inflation chart. If you're not going to do that, do not go lower than the recommended pressures.
If you want the perfect inflation for the weight yes you will need scale. If you look at my recommendations it is usually 75 PSI. It is what I run on Thor 23a and 28a motorhomes I have owned and used extensively. Its not like I am giving advice based off of nothing. You will not be be going lower minimum requirements if you use 75 PSI. Is it the most perfect efficient setting? Likely not but you will drive safely from A to B. If you want something perfect inflation yes please use a scale.
The issue is a lot of people just don't use a scale. If you don't use a scale better to be a little higher on air pressure I would say so you are not running under inflation. But of course don't exceed the Tire rating. Normally I see E rated tires 80 PSI MAX rating on the Thor 23 and 28 footers.
@@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow you say "You will not be be going lower minimum requirements if you use 75 PSI", but you may be, depending on your RV weight and tire size. On my motorhome, 75 PSI would be well below the minimum for adequate load capacity. If you are going to give advice which is only valid for one specific make and model of motorhome on one specific size of tire, you should say that.
@@brianb-p6586
Since your motorhome at 75PSI is well below the minimum. What motorhome do you own? Is it a Class A??
If you look at motorhomes in the class C range. They generally have E rated tires. If you drive a motorhome, put them up to 75 PSI. That is 5 PSI close to the max. Motorhomes have a lot of weight.
The two motorhomes I listed 23a and 28a Majestic. A decent majority Class C RVs are pretty much in those size ranges or close to it. - Least here in North America
There are 19 footers and 21 footers too. Those can also be ran at Max or close to max rating for E rated tires also. I believe the 19,21,23 Thor Majestic models recommend 65 PSI for the rear tires. - I prefer a stiffer ride so I run them higher.
You replied with 'If you are going to give advice which is only valid for one specific make and model of motorhome on one specific size of tire, you should say that' ...
If the RV in this video is Thor Majestic 23a... and let's say you are looking for info on another brand or model that is also 23 feet. I can bet their weight ratings are pretty close. This would apply for most RVs in the same size range. So as a general reference point it isn't bad at all. I have said already that if you want to be super accurate you need to use a scale.
There are RV fleets that run their tires like this with RVs going over 200,000Kms and running.
You can disagree with that all you want. Honestly if you don't care about perfection, just put the tires up close to max or max rating. You will be fine. - In my experience max or close to max rating for R tires while RV or Towing has been fine... and I have towed and RVed a lot. - more than most people.
When I originally posted this video, it was to show someone how to check their tire pressure this Thor Majestic 23a and how to fill it with air. Somehow it got complicated.
The main reason why I run my tires higher or close to max even if the scale tells me otherwise is because of heat build up. For long distance traveling especially in hot weather, it will help for tire heat build up. Figured I would mention that just incase.
Yes, @@thebestfamilyoutdoorshow , it's very clear that you don't know anything about any RV other than a couple models of one brand of one type of motorhome, on one specific chassis, with one size of tires.... so stop making global declarations about what tire pressure an RV needs. Even other motorhomes of the same type (Class C) and about the same size may use different sizes of tires when built on other chassis.
Yes, I have a Class A with larger tires but much more weight than a 23-foot unit, so it uses higher tire pressure than yours. I don't tell people that every motorhome should use the pressure that I use.
If you had stayed with showing someone how to check their tire pressure this Thor Majestic 23a and how to fill it with air, and not made sweeping claims about what is right for every other motorhome, it would have been much better.
I have a $90 Amazon tpms system in my converted ambulance. It's wireless, sensors are in the valve caps, shows pressure and temps, and has pressure and temp alarm. Pretty awesome! It was great to have it on our recent 6k mile trip. Blueskysea is the brand. There might be others.