It seems that my V1 power of 1/256 (lowest) in manual mode is much brighter than when I shoot the same scene in TTL. ... Is this normal? Why would TTL produce less output than the lowest manual setting?
Check the Zoom function on the Flash. Make sure that it changes when you change the focal length of your lens. Sometimes the Zoom function will change to manual vs auto. Some mirrorless cameras don’t fully communicate with certain flashes.
Because Manual flash doesn't care about reflectivity. It only cares about what brightness YOU set it to and it doesn't change until YOU change it. TTL works on the same metering system your camera does - reflective metering. Meaning it meters the light bouncing off your subject and the environment back into your camera, not the exact amount of light falling on your subject and scene. Just like our cameras, TTL sees the world as 18% grey, also known as middle grey and assumes that's the exposure we always want. So if TTL sees a lot of bright tones in the image it's going to try to bring the exposure down to a midtone (middle grey) middle of the road exposure, and underexpose your image significantly. Conversely, if it sees a lot of very dark tones in the image, it's going to significantly overexpose it in an effort to bring all that darkness to midtones (middle grey). This is where your Flash Exposure Compenstaion comes in. This is important to know to use TTL effectively.
If using the flash on camera, bounce the light or angle it slightly above your subject. If using it off camera with a trigger, just move the flash further away. When i chase my toddler around I hold the flash in one hand, camera in other(easy with micro four thirds) and just move the flash in or out depending on results.
The flash will freeze the motion of your subject, so you don’t need 1/125 unless you don’t want the ambient to blur. You can easily get away with 1/60 or lower at wider focal lengths, especially if you have a stabilized lens.
@@VonHughesStanton the shutter speed of your camera only controls the ambient light. The flash fires so quickly that it basically creates a second shutter speed of anywhere from around 1/500 to 1/4000 or beyond for anything it hits (the exact number depends on the flash model and the power it’s set to). If your shutter speed is slow enough, and there’s enough ambient light getting in, you’ll also see blurry “ghosting” behind or in front of a moving subject. Which you get depends on whether you’re using rear or front curtain sync.
@@eccod The reasoning behind the 1/125 is that I change from flash to ambient light. One moment I'm indoors at events and the next moment I'm outdoors without flash. This setting gives me a happy medium.
The better way to go when using TTL is to put your camera in either Aperture Priority or Manual, not Full Auto. In Full Auto the camera is going to do all sorts of craziness as you saw with the ISO. Customers don't give a rat's a** whether we chimp or not. We don't look any less professional chimping and they don't care.
This is helpful. Going to watch it a few more times.
Thanks trying to help out the photography community.
You might like the godox v1 pro
Thinking about that one😉
It seems that my V1 power of 1/256 (lowest) in manual mode is much brighter than when I shoot the same scene in TTL. ... Is this normal? Why would TTL produce less output than the lowest manual setting?
Check the Zoom function on the Flash. Make sure that it changes when you change the focal length of your lens. Sometimes the Zoom function will change to manual vs auto. Some mirrorless cameras don’t fully communicate with certain flashes.
Because Manual flash doesn't care about reflectivity. It only cares about what brightness YOU set it to and it doesn't change until YOU change it. TTL works on the same metering system your camera does - reflective metering. Meaning it meters the light bouncing off your subject and the environment back into your camera, not the exact amount of light falling on your subject and scene. Just like our cameras, TTL sees the world as 18% grey, also known as middle grey and assumes that's the exposure we always want. So if TTL sees a lot of bright tones in the image it's going to try to bring the exposure down to a midtone (middle grey) middle of the road exposure, and underexpose your image significantly. Conversely, if it sees a lot of very dark tones in the image, it's going to significantly overexpose it in an effort to bring all that darkness to midtones (middle grey). This is where your Flash Exposure Compenstaion comes in. This is important to know to use TTL effectively.
@@jasonbodden8816 I'm wishing that I could manually set the flash to lower output, that's the thing. Sometimes I want just a "touch" of added light.
If using the flash on camera, bounce the light or angle it slightly above your subject.
If using it off camera with a trigger, just move the flash further away. When i chase my toddler around I hold the flash in one hand, camera in other(easy with micro four thirds) and just move the flash in or out depending on results.
The flash will freeze the motion of your subject, so you don’t need 1/125 unless you don’t want the ambient to blur. You can easily get away with 1/60 or lower at wider focal lengths, especially if you have a stabilized lens.
How about with fast moving objects like kids? 1/60 will blur, doesn’t always stop motion. That’s living on the edge.
@@VonHughesStanton the shutter speed of your camera only controls the ambient light. The flash fires so quickly that it basically creates a second shutter speed of anywhere from around 1/500 to 1/4000 or beyond for anything it hits (the exact number depends on the flash model and the power it’s set to). If your shutter speed is slow enough, and there’s enough ambient light getting in, you’ll also see blurry “ghosting” behind or in front of a moving subject. Which you get depends on whether you’re using rear or front curtain sync.
@@eccod The reasoning behind the 1/125 is that I change from flash to ambient light. One moment I'm indoors at events and the next moment I'm outdoors without flash. This setting gives me a happy medium.
The better way to go when using TTL is to put your camera in either Aperture Priority or Manual, not Full Auto. In Full Auto the camera is going to do all sorts of craziness as you saw with the ISO. Customers don't give a rat's a** whether we chimp or not. We don't look any less professional chimping and they don't care.
Thanks for the advice. It refreshing to hear other photographers helping the community.
I’m going to give your suggestion a try. I’ve been a bit intimidated trying out TTL.