$100 Chinese Katana - What can it do? (review and test) [4K]
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- Опубликовано: 12 ноя 2024
- A brief review of my two $100 katanas from Aliexpress some of you have been asking for.
You may purchase this katana here ➜ bit.ly/3qRjckt
This is not an advertisement. This video is made just for educational and entertainment purposes.
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Развлечения
The staining doesn't mean the metal is cheap (even though it likely is). There is a lot of citric acid in soda. Since the katanas are not stainless steel, they are sure to get etched.
The staining is a good sign if they say they are using 1095 high carbon. But if its a stainless and its staining from soda. Thats bad. Trust me. But what are you expecting from $100 sword. Imo if u can honestly get a 1095 high carbon with a decent heat treatment you hit the jackpot. But 1095 will patina and fast if not clean with wd-40 as I've mentioned before and a light coat of your favorite oil.
Here's how u can test the blade with realitive certainty if its a high carbon or mild steel blade or stainless.. its a semi destructive test so u must sacrifice for the answer. Comment with a thumbs up if any one wants to know how
y would someone spend the time to make cheap metal as sharp as a razor?
Hi I'm Roger owner and maker at BC Cutlery. 1095 will rust fast. All u have to do for a preliminary test is with ur forefinger and thumb simply pinch and hold on a inconspicuous area on the blade and re scabbard the katana. Leave alone over night and in the morning if your finger prints are clearly visible where u pressed its probably 1095. And ill give u another test if it passes the first. ( visible finger print is good. Not visible or faint is bad) when done simply clean with wd-40 and rag
Do you have a online store
@@genoedcknifecollecter1538 u can check me out here on RUclips. BC Cutlery My business is down at the moment but I can make u a custom. Its about two weeks shipped.
@@genoedcknifecollecter1538 ruclips.net/channel/UCNwAO2gyFgsvP9PzKb-6-DA
ruclips.net/video/pMUqYVN9hgM/видео.html
@@rogerbarnesknives do u make custom katanas? and how much on average
Knowing how cheap these are verus what i used to think they were actually has motivated me to start saving up to buy one for myself 😄😄
By reading your comment I started saving too now
Best you be watching videos on how to use one lol
This is good seeing you motivated.
Vergil approves
You should really do the paper test with just one sheat of paper, cus that is very difficult to cut with dull blade, it only folds out of the way or rips when tried to cut, when a sharp blade cuts it clean and the cutted surface isn't fluffy like ripped but very clean and sharp. Using multible papers like this makes then be more ridgid and so more easier to cut.
The 1st Katana looks good in my eyes, I like the shiny Saya & the leather wrap. The blade itself is also decent.
The 2nd object is just an oversize letter opener.
you think the first one is actually 1095?
You were almost right on the folding method. It is too remive impurities in the steel (air bubbles, slag, etc) but if you do it when its already good it can make it 1000' worse
I have some tips/things for you below.
about how to figure out the hardness, how to cut better and damage your sword less, and something to look out for with seemingly unsharp edges(edges where you are not sure if they are sharp). and I also added a safe "free" method you can do at home to test if it is probably 1095 by looking at the speed at which it rusts or changes color(on a small area, or text to rust engrave your name for example.
you should be very carefull with a katana which seems not sharp since it might have been sharpened with a niku which means it doesn't seem sharp but actually is extremely sharp a niku is normally used to make it much stronger, in those case your sword actually wasn't sharp but you shouldn't test it with your fingers anyway.
To test the hardness you can test it with another object with a known hardnes. 1095 clay tempered steel should have a hardness of around 60HRC on the edge, and 53HRC on the spine for a average budged 1095 katana. you can also hit something/a blade with a known hardness, or just a 1060 steel blade since the 1095 should be harder, but not to hard since it will in many cases damage both blades when done like this, so hit it very soft and see which is cut in the most.
the 1045 steel sword you have might also be unhardened, or very poorly, so you might want to test it, if you want to keep using that sword you likely have to heat it up very much than partly reforge it to get the damascus to kind of forge together again, then you can either hope the rest of it was done right and give it one oil temper and after that heat it up again to when the steel turns golden but not yet glowing to relieve internal stress and cool it in oil again. or if you have learned from the tip you likely are better of finding some cheap clay, or even just clay from your garden since the current setup likely will be worse than even a method when this is done poorly, do the clay around it, you might include som straw or most to make it more heat resistant, next heat it up to a good glow(depending don't the sword) and cool it in oil, or slightly less hot and cooled in water(should be fine with 1045 steel), after that you can remove the clay and again heat it up slightly but not to hot and not for to long, just to release internal stress so it won't break as easily and cool it in oil again, you might be able to do it with water. be carefull with weather around heat objects it will cook instantly and shoots out steem as well as hot water, these small underwater steam explosions can be dangerous when to closeby, as well as when you get scared since being scared makes you do stupid things and doing stupid things with a sword in your hand is dangerous, just know what to expect when using water, and either use a claw/smithing tang(plier) to do it when being on a safe distance, and/ or make sure you are well protected against the hot water and other possible dangers.
1095 steel also rusts a lot faster than 1045 steel. so you can put some water droplets on both on a place where you don't care, or put some tape on it with some words or a engraving cut out so you basically rust edge a text in it. then put some water on those parts or salt or acid water to speed things up. the 1095 sword should rust a lot faster than the 1045, so it should have a much clearer miscolouration as well as that it should happen much faster. you can also use soaked paper with slightly acid water(like sode), when it is dry based on what you noted they both should be stained. otherwise you can look to edge retention and how hard it feels, 1045 is easy to bend, 1060 can dull fast.
And as last your cutting technique has indeed some mayor flaws, while they are not as bad in comparison to most people since most people do it like that these days it is terrible for your cutting performance and blade durability. you stand straight facing your opponent, however you should try to stand perpendicular to it, so with one foot behind the other when looking from the object, this in not only done to make you a smaller target in a actual battle, but this also causes the blade to be sightly pulled back when it hits the target without you needing to do something for it, you can also see in the blades shape that it is greatly optimized for this. when cutting like that it will make the blade a lot more durable and effective because the stress is spread over a larger region and you make a actual cutting motion like that rather than a chopping motion(which increases cutting power, and also reduces blunt force on the blade). in specific types of fighting with a stich/staf this was also done just to be able to break objects which actually where stronger than the stick they where using, with using a katana for most people it is just natural to do so(for the really good ones) due to the footwork and such being heavily trained for ceremony and actual duels. having better footwork, or just standing diagonal also makes the edge alignment a lot more easy.
you could try it, but be carefull not to cut yourself, most accidents which don't happen through maintainance or fights happen when trying new techniques. so I recommend you first try the motion and stance/footwork and bodywork with a stick or practice sword first, just for safety even though you likely are capable of doing so directly since it should be more easy and safe that way than how you do it now, however, by first doing it a few times to get the feel(in the air) you can feel exactly what angle is best for you, your muscles remember it, you are safe, and your blade is safe. since if that 1095 blade is actual 1095 a hard misaligned strike can easily break it, especially it has only been tempered ones without the stress relief temper.
Brohow do you type?
You don't fold modern steel. Folding was a method used remove impurities in bad steel. The difference was that that steel was usually 1.1%-1.6% carbon. Folding 1060 means they heated and folded it multiple times. Because of this, the steel decarburizes lowering the carbon content. I have no doubt that it's 1040 steel now. I have many knives made from 1060 leaf springs and they're all excellent. Don't overheat.
You can usually find a stamping of the type of steel used on the tang if you remove the tsuka (handle)
I have similar swords... I feel ya... still, wall hangers at most they are, with a little work they can still be decent enough to cut... cheers man, hope you always a good one.
Nice bro keep up the great work🙏
If you’ve got a Brunel hardness testing rig you could run a test against known data for 1095.
The purpose of folding the steel is to remove impurities in it , has nothing to do with adding or removing quality of the steel the process of claying is what makes the hamon line
The folding is to remove impurities, so the quality of the sword will be higher. The claying is for making the edge hard, and the backbone softer. But you are right, so much bullshit about katana’s....
@@praetorian3959 Explain to me what impurities you expect to find in modern industrial grade steel? It was folded to counteract the absolute crap tier of material people worked with.
@@Iocanthos i’m not going to explain something that i didn’t say. I agree with you that modern day steel is way better than what was used in the old days. I don’t know if folding even helps if you use grade A steel. But it’s a proven concept when nót using grade a steel.
Folding has more to do with homogenizing the steel - especially its carbon content - to insure its physical properties are the same throughout, or at least as much as possible. Modern steel doesn't need this treatment because we're able to melt and cast it into a monobloc piece that's consistent throughout.
This is interesting. I never thought you could find any quality in a katana unless you paid through the nose for it. I guess that's still true but the $100 sword is actually acceptable. No doubt the hamon is take and the fittings are zinc but the blade is....ok. I might get one.
i don't know about the hamon being fake, it looks like it was probably made by firing some kind of surface covering rather than just laser etching like on the 2nd one, it may not be the authentic traditional way, but it still seems hand made
i have to something to say something very high carbon steels will rust if you leave any water or Residue in 15 minutes
The second one wasn’t even tempered and the texture was lasered on
If you can’t cut the Hawaiian Punch in half are you even a real samurai?
The 1st katana is legit!! The suka is leather leather wrapped n it’s probably real ray skin too.. get it sharpened by a pro n that sword wil do major damage
1060 Is not that bad, but only for mono blades, Ronin katana dojo pro models are 1060 and can take a beating, same with cold Steel, that Is 1055. 100 bucks blades that are functional are musashi and some ryanswords, those are 1045.
Could you please list where both katanas came from? Thanks.
Have you tried to cut something stronger like wood with non folded one? Did it ever bent? For that price iam considering buying one myself. I was watching 9260 steel blade for 120$ before i saw this..
I can't find swords on Ali Express where can I buy them now?
I’ll assume something like $95 is good enough for display and cosplaying? Or no?
So for that price it is probably 1045 carbon steel. Often times chinese sword manufacturers will claim a higher carbon content or hardness than it really is and often its a mistake on a website. Most chinese made katanas are 1045 because it is easier to forge and form than 1060 or 1095 and it is far more forgiving of mistakes
Also 1045 is more bendy than 1060 or higher grade steel. If you want a super strong sword buy 1060 1095 or T10 katanas from companies thst deliver what they advertise. Always go with sword brands with many many reviews not just 1 or 2
Did they use leather for the ito on authentic katanas in the past?
Good video.. Always use a white clean cloth to clean blade. Colored cloths has dye in them which is not good for cleaning blades.
What's the difference between a $100 katana and a $4000 katana? About $3900.
A lot of things
A lot of things actually. The ones of 100$ 99% of the times is just replica. Basically is made of machines and the Hamon line is just for emotional support.
The $90 dollar katana is more prettier than the $100
FIRST also big fan and claim your Early reward here and god bless you all and have a great life🙏😁
I cant escape you
why did you pick the worst aliexpress seller? There are like 100 sellers that sell for the same price but allow you to customize what steel you want and what designs. Those are the better ones.
Yeaaahhhh destroy that module paper
Use mother’s mag metal polish or similar chrome or metal polish. Will get acid stains right off. This will happen to any steel. Not just cheap quality steel. To make those ripples they probably used 1045 with 1060 steel to fold it. Since modern steel is already pure bloom steel, folding is just for looks, and your correct that it can actually weaken the steel. In times past steel had impurities that weakened steel, so the folding helped get rid of those. That’s not the case anymore.
If you sharpen the cheap sword, it will be useable.
The first sword is very likely 1060 for the price point but could be 1090-95 but most swords around the $60-$120 price point are 1060.
Also nothing wrong with 1060 I actually prefer it for my light cutting blades as it is slightly more forgiving and if you do so happen to somehow damage the blade it's not a big loss. I would only go 1090+ if the blade is going to be used for cutting something heavier than mats, bottles, foam.
What is The name of The katana model i want one plz answer😀
If the hamone isent wire brushed on, and is real, then it's probably 1045 hc steel. On these 100 dollar swords that's usually what they use. 150 dollar and up use 1060 hc, and 2-3 hundred dollar use 1095, t10 tool steel, 1065, or 1075hc. After that, different methods like San mai, folded steel with hamone, and mono tempered spring steel are common. Fake hamone swords usually use stainless steel, instead of high carbon. 440 stainless is common for these, wall hanger swords.
How no one still not commented but me tho lol🤣😂
Right off the bat, the lower one has a tang that is completely out of line. I wouldn't accept that at all.
Ali Express swords may look good on the wall, but you get what you pay for. These will barely be better than dollar store knives. The fittings may be fancy, but $100 for a 1095 blade seems suspect. Is it hardened? Mono steel construction may be less expensive than sanmai, but even then I doubt material quality and sturdiness at that price point for a sword. I'm not surprised that the tsuba is loose.
There is also test cutting and martial arts. Some people learn things like Bato-Do
It can be a hit and miss with quality control, but as I understand these sword come from a traditional swordmaking district in China where the cheaper labour and material cost lets them produce some serviceable blades for less money than their American or Japanese counterparts.
I bought a T10 (Chinese 1095 steel) katana myself for $150 from Amazon. It came with a few nicks, ito was nylon, and the "ray skin" on the handle is probably plastic leather. But it's got nice full-tang blade, steel springs back when bent, scabbard fits tight with no rattle, and she draws and cuts well. For someone like me who's just looking for a serviceable sword to play around with and not after "authenticity", my sword was a steal for the price. I doubt most wako or ronin four hundred years ago had access to anything better.
It can be a hit and miss with quality control, but as I understand these sword come from a traditional swordmaking district in China where the cheaper labour and material cost lets them produce some serviceable blades for less money than their American or Japanese counterparts. I bought a T10 (Chinese 1095 steel) katana myself for $150 from Amazon. It came with a few nicks, ito was nylon, and the "ray skin" on the handle is probably plastic leather. But it's got nice full-tang blade, steel springs back when bent, scabbard fits tight with no rattle, and she draws and cuts well. For someone like me who's just looking for a serviceable sword to play around with and not after "authenticity", my sword was a steal for the price. I doubt most wako or ronin four hundred years ago had access to anything better.
Ok it’s a $100 katana ,not a real katana made by a master sword smith ,it’s mass produced.It’s good for what it is .want better pay more.one sheet paper is use to test as previously stated by a next viewer,thanks for the upload and enjoy and be safe.
I ain’t early but I ain’t 1 year late either 💁🏽♂️
Hello. Are they Heat Treated ? Are they Tempered ?
9:50 me burst into tears
You paid $100, and you expect it perform like $5000 real katana?
Who is the fool?
didn't expect nothing
i wouldnt use a shinsakuto without proper training i think the cheapest one is 7400 usd (i know with proper searching you can find a suitable gendaito for cutting but is better to have recent forge blade), there are good replicas for batodo that will work for begginers, hanwei, dynasty forge offer really good options, starting from 300 usd i think.
many of those really expensive ones are historically correct, they use the same method of making and getting the steel, similar forging method, etc. they are mostly meant for serious collectors and historians and not for modern cutting. those expensive blades are often less hard and more breakable(so weaker) than a modern 1060 reproduction which costs around €150 new in the current market from a normal sword store. so those really expensive katanas often perform less than many current cheap reproductions to match up with the historical performance and methods of making them making them really fragile, and not really hard either. T10 swords are often considered the best katana's(clay tempered), the sword which performs the best which I have ever seen is a T10 katana which cost around $300 (€250), that sword was better than the more expensive models from the same company and is truly capable of cutting things like thick bones without getting visibly dulled, or chipping, as well as cutting steel and other hard materials(from the tests I have seen) where most other swords would either dull or bend like butter, or chip.
Please is this a practical katana or was this not written in the buying info ? …
A COUPLE THOUSAND?!?!?!?
Aren't you sure that the second katana Is a Iaito? I think it is a Iaito. Not for decoration but for unshead practice.
the first katana comme from aliexpress ?
the link isnt working
Not trust enough chinese product but there's a good one too, but i choose local Blacksmith for good one it's cost from 200 - thousand.
Do not touch the BLADE
amazing that Hamon line is either real or someone went to the brake breaking craftman ship to make it look real, if u look at the hamon on other katana u will see that the entire sharp edge up to the perfectly wavy hamon is sandblasted that, a perfect example of a fake hamon. so the hamon line on the second cheaper katana is fake you can easily tell by how non flawless it is
the one with a fuller is useless garbage, the second with leather wrapping on the handle is pretty good for this price
Dude, no matter the quality... if it’s steel, never ever touch the blade with your fingers.....! Before you know it, your fingerprint is visible in a rust stain.
Dude, nobody cares... it’s not big deal unless it’s very old or you’re a weeb
Or like I dunno wipe it down with a light oil when finished? Stupid weebs
@@flavorman9159 how much you wanna bet his waifu pillow can stand up on its own now?
hey, the link you gave us in the description was it the first one or the second one ?,
the link leads to the page of the katana that cut most of the bottles
@@NotKaedin aight thanks
First or second don’t matter... wouldn’t take my chance. Try SBG (sword buyer guide) instead. Might pick up some knowledge along the way about swords. That where all real deals collectors hang around, buying n selling even trading...
The second sword is not hard because 1060 steel doesn't contain enough carbon to harden properly
With proper quenching and tempering it can bee raly hard
Olso traditional japanes swords have 0.6-0.8% of carbon
I don't question that but as you said with proper quenching and tempering. At the price point it was sold at I doubt it was made by a skilled craftsman and unlike steel with a higher carbon content that is more forgiving to an unskilled maker I suggest it was not properly quenched and tempered
Completely incorrect... 1060 is a great steel for katanas if done right. It is also the most commonly used for them.
while you can harden 1045, the second sword indeed looks unhardened(or very poorly), but that can also be due to improper made Damascus weakening the blade. but 1045 actually already contains enough carbon to harden properly, and it is one of the most easy high carbon steels to harden, you can even harden them properly with normal water without having to do things to precise.
yes
I want one how the Price
08:08
08:53
09:05
Its not about more power, is just lack of blade alignment.
Great priwiev... 👍
I don´t think folding is necessary since modern steel exists.
Your edge alignment on the failed cuts was the issue, not the blade. You should try it again and really concentrate on the technique. You do realize that soda has acid in it right? THAT stained the blade, it's not bad steel.
this is 1045 carbon steel buddy
can you buy shirasaya sword its amazing i promise you will like it
Shirasaya
8:52 what the hell is this shot very very bad
My eyes are bleeding
this is shot on iPhone 10. you should ask Tim Cook what the hell is this, not me
@@ExtremeGamingHD3D I didn't tell you anyway your channel is perfect
Oh c’mon man.. why not chop some wood or meat?
yes, definitely meat.
"Katana" is a slashing weapon, not a thrusting weapon. Watch kendo for practical application of Nipponese sword fighting technique.
Gee, I wonder why they even put a tip on a katana then , right?
Anyone else here cuz they’re abouta buy a sword??
Fr.. when he said they were really cheap i was like damn. New decoration for my room and a cool new weapon
Stuff not to do with katanas.
ive had pencils sharper than that second katana
I believe that you are slightly misinformed, Chinese-made does not always equal bad quality. You see, nearly 85% of all katanas circulating in modern marketplaces were/are made in China. The difference in quality stems from the fact of whether the said blade was mass-produced or handmade, also factoring in the effort/motivation of the smith designing the weapon. Only a small proportionate amount of katanas are directly shipped, let alone created in Japan due to limited export and imports of steel and other precious metals. Regardless, great review once again.
EDIT: Also, you are indeed correct; the 'pattern' is known as Damascus which was produced centuries ago (meaning that modern labelled blades with said steel are most likely inauthentic). Henceforth, the faux Damascus leaves the blade with adverse effects (performance-wise).
打刀 is also known as uchi-katana. Also, its not gah or kah its more like Kuh
Kuh tuh nuh
ひらがなで：かたな
カタカナで：カタナ
漢字で：刀
@Clasic Man POV: you speak a langauge other than English and now gen z Americans are jealous because you’re not stupid
@Clasic Man What about me speaking Japanese makes me a weeb? You speaking English don’t make you a Harry Potter geek does it 🤡
@Clasic Man Oh so if you speak Japanese you’re automatically a weeb? That doesn’t make sense. You’re telling me because I learned a language from a country I’m a weeb? The Japanese language has no connection with being a weeb. If you learn a language on your own time and intention, that just means you’re interested in the language, the country, the culture, etc. Thats like assuming since you’re a British person then you be a Harry Potter geek. English wasn’t my native language either. And who says I’m not Japanese? What you’re saying is people who want to know the Japanese language must be Japanese themselves. That’s not how it works.
2. I’m not bragging about my Japanese. I’m literally just informing you. If you can’t take constructive criticism then just ignore it.
@Clasic Man Why tho?
@Clasic Man I just want to clear things up. I’m not trying to brag or show of my Japanese. I was literally just pointing something out.
Break off and hurt yourself I'm shocked it even cut plastic
100 bucks is ok for a decor
All the things NOT to do
I T S T A P E
First off 7:30 , you never pull back a katana like it’s some baseball bat or a toy . You create thrust and slash what ever your cutting that way it’s beautiful and precise . You swing is horrible and the cut was horribly off .
Is there a name of the particular seller on AliExpress the you can let me know and do they ship here in the Philippines?
Homie you don’t want a Chinese blade .
100 dollar katana what can it do? Decorative purpose only lol
nope. that one with a leather handle is pretty functional
nice video, but your form is very poor. you swing it like it's a baseball bat lol
Interesting...
Yeah Interesting.......
lots of phd's here
Never touch the blade!!!!
Both of those “blades” are nothing more then wall material . Please stop buying off Aliexpress and wasting money . I highly recommend swords of north shire .
Bah katana is right.
Junk bro.
that first one ain't junk
Из России с Любовью!)))
Real katanas are not very sharp.
A super-sharp blade would chip on each and every strykes.
What? A real katana is razor sharp, as well as a medivial sword.
Edge damage is inevitable when you fight, there are plenty of examples in Japanese art which show the blade of a samurai in battle- covered in nicks all over the blade.
I mean you need a super sharp blade, otherwise the sword would not even cut through thick winter clothing, let alone armor (light armor like fabric armor of course, no sword can cut through chain mail for example)
And you can repair and Resharpen a blade after use, I would rather sharpen my blade than not to cut my enemy because of a dull blade. I would prefer to live with a damaged sword instead of dying with a sword in perfect shape.
Congratulation on the most ignorant comment so far... A "real" katana is very sharp, it is a cutting weapon meant to cut through human bodies after all..
ຂ$100
cheap nockoff would be a better name for them
Eu quero uma tesa
First to like sub and like wow I'm awesome
Kuh-tah-nuh
Not Catan-a.
Please learn how to swing a katana. This is painful to watch.
You swing it like a baseball bat and wonder why it doesn't cut through some things... You must learn to cut at an angle for a proper cut, no one who does cutting tests cuts straight on except amateurs. You also hit the table with the tip of the blade before and after making contact with several of the bottles... A proper ( or at least any stand) stand will fix this issue... If you want a nice katana for $140 go with Ronin Katana, the videos of their test on here will show what I mean. I can also vouch for Eroton katana from Amazon, they are nice for the price as well.
total waste of time. he knows absolutely nothing of Katana's.
I'm not a sword nerd. It's only my small hobby
Interesting.......
Interesting...