If you can get additional years of a tractor especially a model that hasn't been built since 1952 nobody's going to fault you. The only gripes I ever heard about the M was they were geared high especially fifth gear, a clutch that can be pretty wicked along with a PTO that ran a bit slow. But, given it's age and the fact that they're only about 40 HP to begin with you're getting amazing production out of it while minimizing it's drawbacks.
I thought 5th gear speed was just fine AS LONG AS your narrow front bushings didn't have slop. A loose front end was a scary ride. The real problem was that first gear was too fast. It needed to be about half the speed. M&W made a 9 speed conversion for the M's that was the cat's meow, but they're hard to find. Really tuned up you could get 50 or so HP out of them.
@@ffjsb M&W gear co had the cure for all the failings of the M and the H. they made a hand clutch that gave live pto and hydraulics power steering , friction throttle leve,r engine upgrades to take an M to 75hp, 9 spd transmission upgrade , a good 3pt hitch setup. put all these on an M and there is not much a new 60hp modern tractor can do that a tricked out M cant do and for a lot less money. i had these enhancements on my 44M i had a 450 LP head and manifold and 450 gas carb with 264 flat head engine kit and i had 62.5hp on the dyno. it would run circles around the 560 gas next door pulling a 4-14 fast trip plow in 3rd or a 3-16 in 4th gear in river bottome black gumbo dirt. the 560 could not pull his semi mtd 4-14 fast hitch plow , he had to get a 3-16 fast hitch plow.
The M and Super M are geared different. I never found the PTO to be slow if the engine is running the correct speed.. The W-6, as with the M, really boogie in 5th gear, both have the same power train, except the belly section that lengthens (where the hydraulic pump is) the M, is not in the W-6, making it shorter. Do you mean the clutch is hard to push or jerky? A common complaint on the very first W-6s is the clutch is hard to push. I am not sure about the M's, only had mid 40s M's and the W-6s of that era were good too. Some of those clutches are jumpy. Sometimes on the medium sized tractors of that era especially, the clutch can get jumpy.
Great idea on saving the sediment bowl. I have been leaning on adding a inline fuel filter to it and think you definitely made my decision. Now just gotta find time and figure that out.
When I bought my massey I replaced the hose and added the inline filter as soon as it was home I kept the sediment bowl before the inline filter. The inline filter has caught somuch junk great video you may save some peoples carbs
I did some of the same improvements on my M. Thanks for the shout out. And I hope you do the plowing with the M because I just love the sound of an M working. 👍
I see you have hydraulics. I found the remote valve setup with 2 hoses out in the weeds for my M. I didn't know for sure if it went on mine or not, but seeing yours confirms it. Good vid.
The original Big Red...the legendary M. I burn non ethinol in mine too. No problems and not looking for any. I learned something today FF. I never thought of the sediment bowl as a water seperator. Thanks for pointing that out!
Ethanol free fuel is vital I'm my opinion. Our 53 super M started running rough one summer after the obama gas was mandated. A neighbor had some ethanol free fuel from the summer before. We drained the obama gas and have been running e free with no issues for the last decade or more. We only use the tractor to launch and retrieve our ski boat. We only burn 5-10 gallons of fuel each year. It's pretty cool with dual wheels we can launch/retrieve our ski boat right on the sandy beach.
Two things I added to my early super M I love is the spin on oil filter adapter and the park brake lever rod whatever you wanna call it for a framall 350 both new from stiner
I am impressed with your rims turned in. Lol. Mine are too so as to get wheel spacing to cover a six foot rotary mower. Dished in was part of the wheel spacing strategy.
Couple more improvements are an 18in 4 spoke steering wheel, makes a little easier to turn, and a MnW clutch extension ,easier to run the clutch. I'm gonna make up some of those. IH used 2 different kinds of clutch. A Rockford which is a full circle of pads,and a Auburn which a triangular button type for more positive lockup which is jumpy as hell but saves fuel and hardly ever wears out. You don't have to split the tractor to change the clutch on M or H so I'd rather have a Rockford.
Nice tractor! I at one time collected and restored the entire Farmall letter series, even the BN. Due to health issues I sold off the fleet. I wish I had kept my cub though, had a one point hitch and all the implements. Super A and C were my favorites. Happy farming.
Great ol' tractors! We have a couple old Internationals that get used as well as a couple Cockshutt 30s around the ranch. Give them a little TLC from time to time and they run forever. Really enjoyed this video!
Excellent ,brought back a lot of memories thanks so well explained, would look cool with duals, you could put truck tires on front would stay up on top better. Great video .
I saw this video over on the night owls Facebook page. who knew their was so much on a tractor i found it very interesting thanks for sharing hope you have a great day
This old video popped up on my feed, and was pretty good. The M is my favorite. I think my great uncles’ M’s would pull better than my grandparents WD45 even though the Aliss Chalmers had more horse power. They said it was because the M had a bigger crank shaft which gave it a longer stoke. Don’t know, but it pulled a three bottom with no problem.
As always another great video sir I also put the electronic ignition on my M. I just got tired of the condensers going bad with no warning. I still have to replace the seal for the pto and the seals behind the belt pulls. Eventually I’ll paint it up but I want to use it for a while to make sure all the oil leaks are fixed first
I owned a farmall h for almost 60 years the best upgrade I did to it was to install a 8 volt battery to replace the 6 volt. Just set the dial to high charge. I plowed snow in up state New York in the coldest winter days and it always started.
You Sir, are awesome. Very informative and educational. Wished the hell I lived close to ya, I could definitely be schooled. Love what you're doing, love your videos. Thank You
@@FarmallFanatic I am sure your Grandfather was a good man. This "Farmall Fever" that I have, seems to run deep in my soul, for whatever reasons that I can't explain. Fact is, I love em.
One thing to improve fuel economy is to get some brass screen and put it in between your intake manifold and carburetor it separates the fuel more instead of being bunched up and it Burns more efficiently
The fuel filter and ignition are probably two of the best improvements for the money, not to mention easy. If you had a 3pt. hitch installed, front weights were almost a given, and having a couple of sets on the rear are really great too. I had full weights front and back on mine. Duals really don't do much (other than look REALLY cool) as you don't have that much HP to work with. The only advantage I can see is a bit more flotation in wet soil. But if you could drop in a bigger engine, that would come in handy. I think the M's were probably the smallest farm tractor that putting duals on was practical in any way. Fenders are really nice too, as they make it safer, and there's no other good place for a cup holder... Put an umbrella on and ride in style.
Ive got a M, my dad built for pulling. He took 13 different tractor rear ends. From a 1256 to a super A. Now first and second gear is slower than a turtle. I ran it the 13000 lbs class in the fair and won.
It has been a very rainy year this year, I'm not a farmer but I suppose this is a good thing! Another excellent video thank enjoyed watching : ). until next time.
Nice video Farmall! I just have to make one comment on your inline filter, now don’t think I’m being a smart donkey (friendly words, lol), but we have 3 gas tractors on our farm all three having only the sediment bowl and never had an issue with getting junk in the carb. I was also presently surprised with our one H that had the small bowl, which is probably about half the size of your bowl, half filled with junk! But my experience won’t beat your experience, your solution to your problem is your solution! Another thing is the ethanol rating. I don’t know what ours is but we run farm gas, which I’m assuming is a low octane, in our gas tractors and gas start diesel tractors and haven’t had a problem yet. But again to each’s own experience!
Ethanol gas is meant to used up quickly. It's terrible for things that sit around much. It fine for tractors that are used every day. They should label it " Not for occasional use"!
There's nothing wrong with using a fuel filter. I am an originalist, but I like the filter you showed in another video that goes in the sediment bowl. The electronic ignition is all right. I can tell that this tractor is later than a 1940 before you told us. The gear shift knob is steel. IH used steel gear shift knobs in the war years to save rubber. The 1939-1942 models used rubber gear shift knobs... The odd 1942 might have a steel knob... Then the 1943 to 46 use steel knobs... Although sometime in 46 they might have returned to rubber and were rubber after that. Although the war ended we have had 1946 tractors with a steel knob. Petcocks were standard on the M. However, dipsticks were a rare option. Some people (like us) have used power unit engines to resurrect a dead tractor. They have dipsticks. The Diesel tractors used dipsticks, and so did the W-9s. The Super M and Super W-6, use the same engine as the 400. However, the dipstick is standard on the 400 and the petcocks are standard on the Supers.
Big like #126 BOOM 💥 Chickens on the porch are great ! Yeah I guess you can’t plow in the rain. Man it was really coming down The ethanol free fuel is good for our boat motors too. But you have a water separator so you’re probably ok regardless. Magnets are a great idea!! Great video brother 💥
I’m curious why you would put the shut off on the positive instead of negative? Generally they go on the negative because there’s no amps going through it when trying to start it which burns up the disconnects.
There’s a method I’ve used on my m to remove rust from the inside of the tank by means of electrolysis. My tank came out like new inside. Took a couple days
I love the front end on Farm all.m. don't like the one on the H if I was in the woods skidding logs always scared of hitting something with the tie rods we used to have a Farm all m on the farm and a super M I owned it was my favorite. Narrow front end on the super m and wide front end on the M. But had to watch your thumb if you hit a rut more than once I got it
The screens are still in the settlement bowls or I should say on top, but they don't catch everything. The inline filter ensures clean gasoline going into that carburetor and it has made a world of difference. Especially if you are going to run ethanol fuel.
What is the rear Tim width on your tractor? Factory should have been 11 or 12 I believe. The 15 inch tires look good on those rims. I would like to put a bit bigger tire on mine when I get it running. Rims are in excellent condition but tires are shot and falling apart. I don't think it ever had calcium ballast in the rears.
2 questions: I just had my H re-done, oversized stepped head pistons, with the original distillate manifold. It's starting to stumble, sounds like it's a little rich at an idle. Is it because of the ethanol in the fuel, or something else? Also, with the electronic ignition, is there any horsepower increase?
Sounds like a carb adjustment issue. I have heard yes and no...from the studies I have seen, the only thing that increased hp was removing the muffler, which u can't do for long.
@@FarmallFanatic so it wasn't the carb...it was a worn rotor in the distributor. Had about 3° of play in it. I used thick paper to shim it, adjusted the distributor and now she's smooth as silk. I went ahead and ordered a new cap & rotor for future use.
Personally I'd leave the sediment bowl as it is so you don't get a buildup of dirt and water sitting in the bottom of the tank rusting it. This way any junk goes in the bowl and you see it and empty it. Probably not an issue with you because you keep your tank full of non alcohol fuel.
You could have water anywhere to include the tank, spark plugs, and anywhere else you could possibly think... you need to dry it out. Put dry gas in the tank.
@@FarmallFanatic Thanks! I'll let it sit another day. I can't find water anywhere which is baffling me after it's already been sitting for a day and still running rough. Guess I'll get some painting done in the mean time :)
Which fuel filter are you running? I had a Duralast FF5-16DL on my H for a couple years with no problems. I recently changed it with the exact same filter and the new one is too restrictive. It will suck the filter too low and stall out. I eliminated it altogether and now she runs fine. I'd like to put another one on, but not that one. Maybe it was a defective filter? Idk.... It did seem harder to blow thru than the old one.
@@FarmallFanatic I was thinking of replacing my bowl as well, but I'm just scared to take the old one out, in case it's really in there or the tank threads aren't the best. You know, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Was thinking the same thing though, with putting a screen in the bowl stem inside the tank. But then I think, if that screen gets clogged, then I gotta pull that bowl off again to clean/replace it. Just seems like it could be more work than it's worth, especially if you have a screen in the bowl, the inline filter and then the screen at the carb. I like that magnet idea. Did you do that?
Just asking , have you ever thought about putting a turbo on that bad boy. And I was just wondering what it would do with one on it. It would be awesome I think. Anyway have a great week. 😁👍
Hey guys add this word to your vocabulary: GAS--CO--LATOR and that says it all about; getting only gasolene in your carb. Some gascolators also have an element (Buy extras) in them below the screen, which is above the gasket (Keep extra gaskets on hand) and that way it's a speedy change of the filter when you dump water from the glass bow l(Below which I have a soft catch basin, for when I may drop the bowl). I have replaced hundreds of gascolators because some dummies over tightened its valve or mongered up the bowl lip and jimmied the bale by using a pliers on it, as a tractor dealer for 45 years, giving away "Gascolators was my way of saying thanks for trusting me with your baby"! CMVHighPriest
Enjoyed the video Farmall F! A lot of good info and great tips. I'm going to use a lot of them for mine. What did you set your plus at? Have a good one!
@@FarmallFanatic yours looks really good, like factory. Why do some wide front ends stick out 6-12” in the front and have the linkages in front of the axle? I would think having it towards the rear of the axle adds protection built in for the steering linkages. Then to re-iterate; why are they so far forward and not like yours?
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
If you can get additional years of a tractor especially a model that hasn't been built since 1952 nobody's going to fault you. The only gripes I ever heard about the M was they were geared high especially fifth gear, a clutch that can be pretty wicked along with a PTO that ran a bit slow. But, given it's age and the fact that they're only about 40 HP to begin with you're getting amazing production out of it while minimizing it's drawbacks.
Oh definitely! 5th gear is like nascar lol
The thing below the tank with the glass bowl is a GAS--CO--LATOR!
I thought 5th gear speed was just fine AS LONG AS your narrow front bushings didn't have slop. A loose front end was a scary ride. The real problem was that first gear was too fast. It needed to be about half the speed. M&W made a 9 speed conversion for the M's that was the cat's meow, but they're hard to find. Really tuned up you could get 50 or so HP out of them.
@@ffjsb M&W gear co had the cure for all the failings of the M and the H. they made a
hand clutch that gave live pto and hydraulics power steering , friction throttle leve,r engine upgrades to take an M to 75hp, 9 spd transmission upgrade , a good 3pt hitch setup. put all these on an M and there is not much a new 60hp modern tractor can do that a tricked out M cant do and for a lot less money.
i had these enhancements on my 44M i had a 450 LP head and manifold and 450 gas carb with 264 flat head engine kit and i had 62.5hp on the dyno. it would run circles around the 560 gas next door pulling a 4-14 fast trip plow in 3rd or a 3-16 in 4th gear in river bottome black gumbo dirt. the 560 could not pull his semi mtd 4-14 fast hitch plow , he had to get a 3-16 fast hitch plow.
The M and Super M are geared different. I never found the PTO to be slow if the engine is running the correct speed.. The W-6, as with the M, really boogie in 5th gear, both have the same power train, except the belly section that lengthens (where the hydraulic pump is) the M, is not in the W-6, making it shorter. Do you mean the clutch is hard to push or jerky? A common complaint on the very first W-6s is the clutch is hard to push. I am not sure about the M's, only had mid 40s M's and the W-6s of that era were good too. Some of those clutches are jumpy. Sometimes on the medium sized tractors of that era especially, the clutch can get jumpy.
I am a huge fan of farmall I'm glad I found a another one on RUclips.
Great idea on saving the sediment bowl. I have been leaning on adding a inline fuel filter to it and think you definitely made my decision. Now just gotta find time and figure that out.
When I bought my massey I replaced the hose and added the inline filter as soon as it was home I kept the sediment bowl before the inline filter. The inline filter has caught somuch junk great video you may save some peoples carbs
I did some of the same improvements on my M. Thanks for the shout out. And I hope you do the plowing with the M because I just love the sound of an M working. 👍
Thanks for doing this video buddy! This helps me since I'm in the antique tractor group now lol 👍🇺🇸🚜💪
Lots of good information on the updates that you've done to the ol' girl. Stay safe.
I see you have hydraulics. I found the remote valve setup with 2 hoses out in the weeds for my M. I didn't know for sure if it went on mine or not, but seeing yours confirms it. Good vid.
Always loved those old tractors. That one sounds real good, no knocks or ticks that dont belong
I have 2 m's and a 100...love them old tractors they have a personality all their own
Absolutely 👍
The original Big Red...the legendary M. I burn non ethinol in mine too. No problems and not looking for any. I learned something today FF. I never thought of the sediment bowl as a water seperator. Thanks for pointing that out!
Ethanol free fuel is vital I'm my opinion. Our 53 super M started running rough one summer after the obama gas was mandated. A neighbor had some ethanol free fuel from the summer before. We drained the obama gas and have been running e free with no issues for the last decade or more. We only use the tractor to launch and retrieve our ski boat. We only burn 5-10 gallons of fuel each year. It's pretty cool with dual wheels we can launch/retrieve our ski boat right on the sandy beach.
Oh that must look tough with the duals 💪
I agree!! Best thing I did was add the filter. I have not touched the carb in 10 years.
Two things I added to my early super M I love is the spin on oil filter adapter and the park brake lever rod whatever you wanna call it for a framall 350 both new from stiner
I thought about it
I am impressed with your rims turned in. Lol. Mine are too so as to get wheel spacing to cover a six foot rotary mower. Dished in was part of the wheel spacing strategy.
Bingo
Couple more improvements are an 18in 4 spoke steering wheel, makes a little easier to turn, and a MnW clutch extension ,easier to run the clutch. I'm gonna make up some of those. IH used 2 different kinds of clutch. A Rockford which is a full circle of pads,and a Auburn which a triangular button type for more positive lockup which is jumpy as hell but saves fuel and hardly ever wears out. You don't have to split the tractor to change the clutch on M or H so I'd rather have a Rockford.
That was soaker for sure. We got it down this way as well. Learning little by little about some of these Farmalls.
Nice tractor! I at one time collected and restored the entire Farmall letter series, even the BN. Due to health issues I sold off the fleet. I wish I had kept my cub though, had a one point hitch and all the implements. Super A and C were my favorites. Happy farming.
Wow 👏
Great ol' tractors! We have a couple old Internationals that get used as well as a couple Cockshutt 30s around the ranch. Give them a little TLC from time to time and they run forever. Really enjoyed this video!
Excellent ,brought back a lot of memories thanks so well explained, would look cool with duals, you could put truck tires on front would stay up on top better. Great video .
I saw this video over on the night owls Facebook page. who knew their was so much on a tractor i found it very interesting thanks for sharing hope you have a great day
This old video popped up on my feed, and was pretty good. The M is my favorite. I think my great uncles’ M’s would pull better than my grandparents WD45 even though the Aliss Chalmers had more horse power. They said it was because the M had a bigger crank shaft which gave it a longer stoke.
Don’t know, but it pulled a three bottom with no problem.
They were the big tractor on the farm
Agree with you 100% on the fuel filter and the bowl separator.
I learn a lot about these machines when I watch your video
You explain very well 👍🏾
Thanx Farmall. Yep , I think the first video I saw of yours was about a year ago now.
We got rain in the Skook too😊😎
As always another great video sir I also put the electronic ignition on my M. I just got tired of the condensers going bad with no warning. I still have to replace the seal for the pto and the seals behind the belt pulls. Eventually I’ll paint it up but I want to use it for a while to make sure all the oil leaks are fixed first
I owned a farmall h for almost 60 years the best upgrade I did to it was to install a 8 volt battery to replace the 6 volt. Just set the dial to high charge. I plowed snow in up state New York in the coldest winter days and it always started.
You Sir, are awesome. Very informative and educational. Wished the hell I lived close to ya, I could definitely be schooled. Love what you're doing, love your videos. Thank You
Thank you! Fred was my grandfather's name 👍
@@FarmallFanatic I am sure your Grandfather was a good man. This "Farmall Fever" that I have, seems to run deep in my soul, for whatever reasons that I can't explain. Fact is, I love em.
Me too!
Great tips and tricks for improving your tractor looks like a bit rain wow really came down sledgehammered that like button
One thing to improve fuel economy is to get some brass screen and put it in between your intake manifold and carburetor it separates the fuel more instead of being bunched up and it Burns more efficiently
This was very informative thank you. Sharing out
The fuel filter and ignition are probably two of the best improvements for the money, not to mention easy. If you had a 3pt. hitch installed, front weights were almost a given, and having a couple of sets on the rear are really great too. I had full weights front and back on mine. Duals really don't do much (other than look REALLY cool) as you don't have that much HP to work with. The only advantage I can see is a bit more flotation in wet soil. But if you could drop in a bigger engine, that would come in handy. I think the M's were probably the smallest farm tractor that putting duals on was practical in any way. Fenders are really nice too, as they make it safer, and there's no other good place for a cup holder... Put an umbrella on and ride in style.
Best video's ever thank you farmall fanatic.
Appreciate it 🙏
The Red 😈 Beast is on the prowl
And listen to that bad baby pur .. stay blessed brotha
Great info! I don't think I have ever seen a M with duals.
Wow Farmall it sure rained thank you for sharing 😊 💕👍 👍
Ive got a M, my dad built for pulling. He took 13 different tractor rear ends. From a 1256 to a super A. Now first and second gear is slower than a turtle. I ran it the 13000 lbs class in the fair and won.
I bet guys were mad at you haha
Best feeling ever. I've got a 414 turbo for sale if you know someone.
Chickens on the porch haha. Great information.That's a lot of rain. Hope everything drained and dried up.
to bad about that much rain but ya for a 1940 tractor its mint good job knowing what you need to upgrade it thumbs up and shared
watching and supporting!! hope you're doing well during this COVID-19 situation! I got laid off from my job at CNHi.
Like 9 Nice upload
Tire-Ject will give you some security on those rear tires. Any equipment tires, for that matter.
Agree
M looks good! Really miss my 1944 JD B.
POR 15 does a great job go getting rust out of the tank a did this to my John Deere G . it worked great.
Ill give it a shot
Beeeyutifull tractor! No ethanol for the farmall! I’m diggin it!! Have fun ploughing with that 1940 model fire extinguisher 🧯!!!😂😂😂
👍thanks , great videos 👋
It has been a very rainy year this year, I'm not a farmer but I suppose this is a good thing! Another excellent video thank enjoyed watching : ). until next time.
does the M have live hydraulics? i would love to own one to pull a 10ft mower !
No they aren't live, but still a good antique POWERHOUSE
Nice video Farmall! I just have to make one comment on your inline filter, now don’t think I’m being a smart donkey (friendly words, lol), but we have 3 gas tractors on our farm all three having only the sediment bowl and never had an issue with getting junk in the carb. I was also presently surprised with our one H that had the small bowl, which is probably about half the size of your bowl, half filled with junk! But my experience won’t beat your experience, your solution to your problem is your solution! Another thing is the ethanol rating. I don’t know what ours is but we run farm gas, which I’m assuming is a low octane, in our gas tractors and gas start diesel tractors and haven’t had a problem yet. But again to each’s own experience!
We have really bad gasoline in my area...not sure why, but it is here.
Ethanol gas is meant to used up quickly. It's terrible for things that sit around much. It fine for tractors that are used every day. They should label it " Not for occasional use"!
There's nothing wrong with using a fuel filter. I am an originalist, but I like the filter you showed in another video that goes in the sediment bowl. The electronic ignition is all right. I can tell that this tractor is later than a 1940 before you told us. The gear shift knob is steel. IH used steel gear shift knobs in the war years to save rubber. The 1939-1942 models used rubber gear shift knobs... The odd 1942 might have a steel knob... Then the 1943 to 46 use steel knobs... Although sometime in 46 they might have returned to rubber and were rubber after that. Although the war ended we have had 1946 tractors with a steel knob. Petcocks were standard on the M. However, dipsticks were a rare option. Some people (like us) have used power unit engines to resurrect a dead tractor. They have dipsticks. The Diesel tractors used dipsticks, and so did the W-9s. The Super M and Super W-6, use the same engine as the 400. However, the dipstick is standard on the 400 and the petcocks are standard on the Supers.
The chickens are smart the rain can be your bestfriend or your worst friend as a farmer
That was interesting about using magnets to help with rust.
Big like #126 BOOM 💥
Chickens on the porch are great !
Yeah I guess you can’t plow in the rain. Man it was really coming down
The ethanol free fuel is good for our boat motors too. But you have a water separator so you’re probably ok regardless. Magnets are a great idea!! Great video brother 💥
Great video my friend! Like 116 and shared :) Keep up the awesome work! :)
I’m curious why you would put the shut off on the positive instead of negative? Generally they go on the negative because there’s no amps going through it when trying to start it which burns up the disconnects.
I don't speak for everyone but I personally have not had any problems either way
Great stuff and another full watch from me !!!
Thank you!
beautiful tractor. Great Mods.
I'm still looking for one,I will appreciate it if you let me know when you get another one..
I’ve many an hour on a 49 model. Ours was propane fueled, tricycle gear.
Very interesting
Love the hat! Grabbed one just like it the other day
👍
There’s a method I’ve used on my m to remove rust from the inside of the tank by means of electrolysis. My tank came out like new inside. Took a couple days
Yeah I know a few guys that also do that
Good informative video thank you 👍👍
My eyeballs was on this good bbq food I'm eating, but it played and was heard in full hahaha. BOOM---WOOOHOOO
Another great video. Awesome channel and content.
I love the front end on Farm all.m. don't like the one on the H if I was in the woods skidding logs always scared of hitting something with the tie rods we used to have a Farm all m on the farm and a super M I owned it was my favorite. Narrow front end on the super m and wide front end on the M. But had to watch your thumb if you hit a rut more than once I got it
Thinking about buying a 1951 M
Anyone know if there are loaders that fit them and a brush hog or belly mower ?
watched your ads. and your video. we also hit like . again I dont know alot about these things lol, but thank you for sharing.
Thank you!
Does the rubber bushing go between the tank and tank support as well as between the nut and support?
I can tell you, if it looks like it needs it, do it
I'm kinda new what does the positive battery terminal switch thing you mentioned do?? Purpose
Shuts the battery off so it doesn't drain
we finally got some rain today in Oklahoma. I have big cracks in my yard.
Nice Farmall tractor
Definitely prefer non ethanol fuel for equipment and boat motors. Cool walk through, I would have assumed it was diesel otherwise.
I had farmall cub this bigger then my cub love my farmall m get next week
Nice 👍
they used to make a screen to go in the sediment bowl, it would catch all your inline filter does
The screens are still in the settlement bowls or I should say on top, but they don't catch everything. The inline filter ensures clean gasoline going into that carburetor and it has made a world of difference. Especially if you are going to run ethanol fuel.
What's that big pulley thing sticking out the side?
You can run a buzz saw with a belt
What is the rear Tim width on your tractor? Factory should have been 11 or 12 I believe. The 15 inch tires look good on those rims. I would like to put a bit bigger tire on mine when I get it running.
Rims are in excellent condition but tires are shot and falling apart. I don't think it ever had calcium ballast in the rears.
15.5x38s...on 14" rims
I have a 40. I would love to set up with a 3 point. How did you configure your hydraulics? My belly pump is pretty weak.
I have M n W hydraulics and it's just the Christmas tree with the belly pump
2 questions: I just had my H re-done, oversized stepped head pistons, with the original distillate manifold. It's starting to stumble, sounds like it's a little rich at an idle. Is it because of the ethanol in the fuel, or something else? Also, with the electronic ignition, is there any horsepower increase?
Sounds like a carb adjustment issue. I have heard yes and no...from the studies I have seen, the only thing that increased hp was removing the muffler, which u can't do for long.
@@FarmallFanatic so it wasn't the carb...it was a worn rotor in the distributor. Had about 3° of play in it. I used thick paper to shim it, adjusted the distributor and now she's smooth as silk. I went ahead and ordered a new cap & rotor for future use.
Put 450 piston & liner kit in it. Then you will have something. We have a Super M that I built that's putting out 105 PTO HP. with a few other mods.
Very nice video keep up the good work.
You need a Super C also! Good call using non-ethanol.
Yeah I thought about it and then I could get a two bottom fast hitch
Love tractors..very nice
Awesome video sir!
Personally I'd leave the sediment bowl as it is so you don't get a buildup of dirt and water sitting in the bottom of the tank rusting it. This way any junk goes in the bowl and you see it and empty it. Probably not an issue with you because you keep your tank full of non alcohol fuel.
True
Or is there a pump that bolts on at the distributor or something so I could run 2 cylinders like for the planter
Yes the super m's have those pumps and it gives you live hydraulics
The stage two super m's are really farmall four hundreds with different tin
I did not know that, see that’s what is so good about your channel I learn something new on every video
Anyone able to offer to M advice on rough idle after pressure washing and degreasing engine? This looks like the go-to spot for Farmall folks!
You could have water anywhere to include the tank, spark plugs, and anywhere else you could possibly think... you need to dry it out. Put dry gas in the tank.
@@FarmallFanatic Thanks! I'll let it sit another day. I can't find water anywhere which is baffling me after it's already been sitting for a day and still running rough. Guess I'll get some painting done in the mean time :)
Also pull the dipstick and make sure you didn't get water in the engine. It doesn't take much water in the fuel for it to run rough
Good looking M
Do some more vids on the 140. Thanks
Which fuel filter are you running? I had a Duralast FF5-16DL on my H for a couple years with no problems. I recently changed it with the exact same filter and the new one is too restrictive. It will suck the filter too low and stall out. I eliminated it altogether and now she runs fine. I'd like to put another one on, but not that one. Maybe it was a defective filter? Idk.... It did seem harder to blow thru than the old one.
I believe it's a NAPA 3033
@@FarmallFanatic Ok thanks. Yeah I've read in some forums where a lot of people use the NAPA ones. I'll have to try that. Thanks again.
@@FarmallFanatic I was thinking of replacing my bowl as well, but I'm just scared to take the old one out, in case it's really in there or the tank threads aren't the best. You know, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Was thinking the same thing though, with putting a screen in the bowl stem inside the tank. But then I think, if that screen gets clogged, then I gotta pull that bowl off again to clean/replace it. Just seems like it could be more work than it's worth, especially if you have a screen in the bowl, the inline filter and then the screen at the carb. I like that magnet idea. Did you do that?
@@anotherbrickonthewall not yet, but I will
Lot's of really great info .
Good idea on the magnet
Nice M , I have a Super M TA what do you use for hydraulic fluid? I had trouble lifting my 3 bottom plow out of the ground . Let me know , thanks
Watch my latest upload...pertains directly to this 👍
Just asking , have you ever thought about putting a turbo on that bad boy. And I was just wondering what it would do with one on it. It would be awesome I think. Anyway have a great week. 😁👍
excellent information...i miss DJ
I don't
I use 15 40 in. My m and in all of my grandfathers antique two cylinder John Deere’s
Want to mention my name in your next video
Hey guys add this word to your vocabulary: GAS--CO--LATOR and that says it all about; getting only gasolene in your carb. Some gascolators also have an element (Buy extras) in them below the screen, which is above the gasket (Keep extra gaskets on hand) and that way it's a speedy change of the filter when you dump water from the glass bow l(Below which I have a soft catch basin, for when I may drop the bowl). I have replaced hundreds of gascolators because some dummies over tightened its valve or mongered up the bowl lip and jimmied the bale by using a pliers on it, as a tractor dealer for 45 years, giving away "Gascolators was my way of saying thanks for trusting me with your baby"!
CMVHighPriest
Nice old m.
Enjoyed the video Farmall F! A lot of good info and great tips. I'm going to use a lot of them for mine. What did you set your plus at? Have a good one!
In line filters are worth the time
Forgot my b-n has a short nipple on bulb into tank!
Next time I will go a little higher into the tank
great video brother
What wide front end do you have on your M? Looks good!
Schwartz
@@FarmallFanatic yours looks really good, like factory. Why do some wide front ends stick out 6-12” in the front and have the linkages in front of the axle? I would think having it towards the rear of the axle adds protection built in for the steering linkages. Then to re-iterate; why are they so far forward and not like yours?