Steve's information is fantastic. I'm going to add that a cinder block concrete pool can be built but here's how using key instructions and types of materials: 1. Building a concrete swimming pool out of cored blocks that look like cinder blocks (cored concrete blocks to fit rebar in and connect to each block) works. And it's not that hard but you must be patient and understand each phase. Curing is the key. 2. Use 1/2 inch rebar vertically in every cell and 3/8 inch horizontally. 3. Mix rock with 4000 psi concrete mix. Pour each few cells at a time. Take the time to compact within in cell of each block. 4. When finished with walls. You pour 6 inch floor AFTER in small sections so that you have small expansion joints. Meaning there will be no cracks in the floor because each section is poured so small. This is crucial. Same mix as you did filling the walls. The rock is 3/8 inch and must be mixed with every batch. We do this all by hand with a bucket and not with a cement mixer. 5. Backfill with concrete and rock. Do at the same time you're doing the blocks. (backfill is what goes behind the cinder block) 6. After walls and floor are poured? You use Rapid set cement mix to plaster on walls. It has a 9000 PSI. Rapid set is used at Home Depot. It's the key to everything. Nothing is bringing down the walls and there will be no cracks if you do it this way. We do private homes this way. It's stronger than any shotcrete mix with any company. The difference is how it's all done. In small sections each day. Yes it will take longer but will be worth it. Expect it to take a year if you dig out you own inground pool by hand. If not, then 6-8 months depending on weather. Keep concrete after poured misted with water every hour then saturate with water after 24 hours. This is also the key. 7. The key to real waterproofing? Rubberize IT. This will create a 30 Mil membrane. You will never see a leak. Look up that product. It's non porous. You build it up by painting it on. It works better than a liner. Liner's tear. This won't. 8. Go look online at any above ground pool. The largest you can find. The sides are a joke. And yet it holds up with no leaks. Why? Because of how the water is contained. They use a 20 mil liner for the standard pools. Yet the framing holds up hear after year. The key to everything is waterproofing but the foundation must be solid both with concrete and rebar. The rebar keeps the concrete tensile strength. The PSI is also crucial. If you do all the things above? And listen to Steve? You can and will build a pool that will last you a lifetime. The only difference is with Rubberize IT product? It will last longer than you if you go 30 mil on the buildup and use the material behind it shown on the website and never have to do a resurface your entire lifetime. Know these products. Understand them inside out. And it can and will be done.
Appreciate your advice on this, as I will follow it when I do my renovation. I have an Endless Pool, so only 30" water depth, and only 7 x 14' interior dimension. I need to replace the steel frame (rusted out after 24 years), so am planning to do the walls with 8" thick hollow block, mortared, reinforced and filled as you recommend. Interior wall surfaces I'm planning to use large format (2 x 4 ft) porcelain, rectified edge, with controlled lippage (I'm experienced with that). Bottom surface will be the shaved pebble stone mats. The floor slab is 8" thick concrete, on-grade, thus no groundwater issues, and even though I'm on a steep slope, the whole tub hasn't slid downhill over yet (heh). Structure is surrounded by CCA wood deck and underpinnings, so is just as sturdy as the year I built it (1999). My main question focuses on the type of waterproofing that I should use on the interior surfaces before I install the tile. Is Redgard recommended? Should I use Schleuter membrane fabric as a better option? Should I consider using both? Love your name, by the way!
Thanks for the honest information. I am planning on building a concrete pool and spoke with an engineer as recommended. He immediately adressed all the concerns you had.
This is the way yo do it. Build a pool if you like...but hire an engineer to help with design, site inspection and soil samples, concrete and rebar specifications etc.
Very professional and a lot of valuable information. I’m just planning on making a pond with a cement brick wall on one side , it I found this very useful. Thanks
This is a LOT of technical information. I am doing my best to put content like this out there, but if you want more specific info you will have to look at my website where I have long form articles, pictures and diagrams etc. as it helps to explain these complicated subjects. I have hundreds of articles on my website, and perhaps this is a good page to get started on: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/pools.html or you can also jump to the page which lists every article in chronological order, www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/pool-blog.html
I have had an Endless Pool for 24 years (built it myself), now intending to replace the galvanized steel wall panels with filled concrete block, rebar & mortared joints. I'm planning to use large format porcelain tile on the inside wall surfaces (I have experience with that). Floor surface will be the shaved stone mats. Will the Redguard work for waterproofing over the concrete base and wall block surfaces? Would the Schleuter membrane be better?
Always the best advice. I’m self building an ICF pool with consulting advice from Steve for equipment layout He is a great resource and replies same day most of the time.
Great channel. Long time concrete contractor and would like to build one myself next spring. Couldn't agree more on the foundation designs, steel is a dollar a pound. Put it in. Concerning waterproofing, would you consider waterproofing BOTH sides of the wall? We do tons of elevator/containment pits, and typically waterproof the outside. Do you have any input on a concrete admixture such as Xypex? Really have found them effective. Last question: what are your thoughts on installing a recess tile lip near the top? Thanks for any input.
In my experience waterproofing both sides of the shell is a potential issue where you can trap moisture in the middle. In theory it is dry in there with waterproofing on both sides, but in the real world faults or imperfections will allow water permeation where it now becomes trapped. Waterproofing of the interior shell is the industry standard, with control of the surrounding ground water being an important part of this system. You definitely want a french drain and/or perimeter drainage system in place to take water away from the pool area as opposed to allowing it to pool behind the walls. As far as Xypex, I used this quite a lot in the 2000's but ultimately I could not rely on it as a waterproofing agent alone. By that I mean suppose we are going to put a pool on a roof above a bunch of million dollar condos...is Xypex REALLY going to be enough? Not for me. Not even within a structual membrane box. Or what about a regular inground pool, but with $100k of imported glass tiles going in? Will Xypex prevent water permeation to the point where you can be certain you will not have efflorescence degrade the thin set bond to the tiles? For some contractors maybe the answer is yes. For me it is no. I use membranes like Redgard, Hydroban by Laticrete, and Basecrete as mentioned in this video. There are others as well. These are just the few that I have had experience with. As for tile, every pool needs tile along the waterline. Tiles and the plaster interior surface should be flush. This is standard for how to build concrete pools. Cheers.
Steve, great explanatory video. This is top notch content. I have a question. Would poured walls work for a pool instead of the sprayed? I understand that when it’s sprayed it’s all done in one spray and there’s no seams but with poured walls you have the wall and the slab which creates a seam at the bottom. Just trying to understand if that will work if waterproofed properly. I’m in construction business and plastering/stucco is one of the trades I do for a living so I’m familiar with all of this but not much with concrete. Any input would be much appreciated.
CIP pools - cast in place, are common enough. Some pour in one shot, some in two. I like the idea of pouring the floor and then the walls in a separate pour. If you use a water stop and a urethane bead where the two meet it can be waterproof. Then add your waterproof layer to the whole pool and then plaster. Some skip waterproofing but I definitely endorse not skipping that step.
Ive planned a pool with 8" formed walls and 5 inch base. Its all uniform 4" depth with both sides having a 12" depth for the kids. First thing is, I am not excavating ground for the pool. I have a cut and fill site and plan to build the pool walls - stand alone and then backfill after removing the forms. I'm planning to pour the base first and then the walls, with a key seal waterstop. I have drawn in a bond beam, which will also have the skimmers and returns placed in the forms - Should the skimmer intakes be two 3 feet apart? and tee in the wall leading back to the skimmer. Can you comment? Can I trouble you for another question - I will have to mount the skimmers in the forms
Great informative video bro...im from the Caribbean...just gathering info. to start my own conc. pool soon. Thinking of doing a saltwater pool. What water proofing brands do u recommend or can the same that u just mention work...thanks...
AMAZING! Thank you so much for this video, very hard to find information about it elsewhere! - I am interested in pouring a concrete hot tub where the concrete is left with a raw finish. Do you think I could achieve the right level of waterproofing by using a water proofing additive like "Sika WT-240" or "Bio San 500"? If so which do you recommend? Also if I were to use an additive would you also recommend using a sealer like "Siloxa-Tek 8500"? For reference, the hot tub will be freestanding in a garden area. Many many thanks!
If you look at the documentation for most (if not all) reputable pool tile manufacturers, they recommend 3 separate layers of waterproofing, 1st a colloidal silica product sprayed onto the raw concrete shell, after it has set/hardened. 2nd, a cementitious membrane like basecrete, or one of the similar products from other manufacturers. 3rd and final, an elastomeric membrane like hydrobahn. When I build my pool which will have a full tile interior, I'll be using all 3 waterproofing layers just as the tile manufacturer recommends. It's not worth risking 10's of thousands of dollars worth of tile because you cheaped out on a a few thousand dollars extra worth or waterproofing products.
Is it worth doing both basecrete and hydroban? I’m building a concrete block plunge pool (filling voids with concrete and 1/2” rebar). Interior will be full tile, hydroban alone seems sufficient for waterproofing but I’m wondering if adding basecrete will increase overall strength and extend the pools lifetime
@cameronm18 I would. When used properly I do endorse basecrete over any other waterproofing solutions. But that is just based on my experiences, and not to say that other waterproofing solutions are no good. I just prefer the Basecrete products. Laticrete would be my second choice for what it's worth, but it would also depend on whether you had a weir wall or not (water on both sides of the wall)
Not a pool guy but I think using Xypex c-500 mixed in with the concrete to waterproof would be a great way to stop water from penetrating from both sides.
It definitely works. I used this primarily for waterproofing artificial rock waterfalls but have seen it used in pools as well. It will make the pool more water resistant, but for me it was not reliable enough for situations where waterproof was a paramount concern, like a pool over living areas for example.
Hi Steve, thanks for sharing your expertise ~ I have a few questions 1)did I hear you say that a plaster pool should be redone nearly every 7 years. Are you talking about the old plaster being removed and replaced every 7 -10 years. 2) did you say for a tile pool the waterproofing needs to be done as opposed to the tile simply being installed on the plaster. Is that what you have seen fail? By water proofing are you talking something like the Basecrete you mentioned? 3) you talked about a french drain system for pools .... I can not picture a French drain system for below grade pools ? Thanks again for your work here :)
To your questions, a plaster pool should be redone every 7 to 10 years max. Like a shingled roof you can add a second layer of plaster one time, and after that you have to take everything down to bare substrate and plaster again. Waterproofing should be everywhere in a pool, it is just that the tiles will probably be the first thing that fails as a result of not having it. Concrete is porous and will leak (leech) water which causes mineral buildup and wear of the concrete as the cement component slowly erodes away with the passing of water. This is what I mean by waterproofing, but also controlling ground water around and adjacent to pools is of paramount importance as a host of problems can occur from uncontrolled or high ground water tables. The drainage system in that case is a sump well to the pool floor which sits adjacent to the pool, or a French drain which aims to control water (most commonly) at the foot of the walls. Basecrete is one concrete waterproofer which is useful for making the concrete structure waterproof. There are others as well such as Redgard, Hydroban by Laticrete and more.
In Arizona we cant build pools without engineering. Engineers often call out for 12" x 12" grid #3 rebar. If the walls exceed 6' tall we increase the verticals to 6" on center. In areas where we have expansive soils like farm land we do 6" x 6" #3 grid. If we are building a masonry structure like a big grotto or something on the pool we increase to 6" x 6" grid of #4 rebar. I always overkill wherever possible. Calcium from the water gets behind tile and expands and pops tiles off. Pebble-Tec is BY FAR the bast interior finish.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve We have a company called "BYOP" here and their clients are out there building total shit shows. It is nuts that someone would even want to BYOP!
@@Swimmingpoolsteve here in the southern US very little is focused on consumer safety. I'm in South Carolina, and by far laws favor businesses. We're decades behind other places in so many areas, and this is one of them.
Are you still thinking to go the DIY route for a pool? More than ever home owners are going that way. Pools are so expensive now and wait times for good builders so long. It can be done but it is so important to understand the difficulty of.the project
@@Swimmingpoolsteve yes we are still planning on doing the pool DIY, keep in mind this will be about two years from this summer. We just bought our first home and have always dreamed of digging our own pool for our kiddo/neighborhood kids. My wife and I are up for the challenge, we just want to make it exactly right.
Unless you work in the industry and have the real world experience, this just seems like a terrible idea. I did visit an old farmhouse once where the farmer built his own concrete pool. They weren't going for aesthetics but it was functional.
I'm a masonry contractor not a pool builder but...block walls are built in basements with 10 ft. ceilings everyday, hydrostatic pressure is on 1 side of the wall. in a pool, once filled the pressure would be on both sides. if every cell was filled with block fill concrete and rebar every 5th cell I think the strength would be fine. on the proper footing cracking would occur similar to a concrete wall. cracking would not occur along mortar joint as mentioned because the cells would be filled with concrete. however, expansion cracks could occur just like concrete. pool plaster has some flexibility, maybe even a fiber reinforced coat before pool plaster would help? block might not be the best option, but for different reasons than mentioned
Steve's information is fantastic. I'm going to add that a cinder block concrete pool can be built but here's how using key instructions and types of materials:
1. Building a concrete swimming pool out of cored blocks that look like cinder blocks (cored concrete blocks to fit rebar in and connect to each block) works. And it's not that hard but you must be patient and understand each phase. Curing is the key.
2. Use 1/2 inch rebar vertically in every cell and 3/8 inch horizontally.
3. Mix rock with 4000 psi concrete mix. Pour each few cells at a time. Take the time to compact within in cell of each block.
4. When finished with walls. You pour 6 inch floor AFTER in small sections so that you have small expansion joints. Meaning there will be no cracks in the floor because each section is poured so small. This is crucial. Same mix as you did filling the walls. The rock is 3/8 inch and must be mixed with every batch. We do this all by hand with a bucket and not with a cement mixer.
5. Backfill with concrete and rock. Do at the same time you're doing the blocks. (backfill is what goes behind the cinder block)
6. After walls and floor are poured? You use Rapid set cement mix to plaster on walls. It has a 9000 PSI. Rapid set is used at Home Depot. It's the key to everything.
Nothing is bringing down the walls and there will be no cracks if you do it this way. We do private homes this way. It's stronger than any shotcrete mix with any company. The difference is how it's all done. In small sections each day. Yes it will take longer but will be worth it. Expect it to take a year if you dig out you own inground pool by hand. If not, then 6-8 months depending on weather. Keep concrete after poured misted with water every hour then saturate with water after 24 hours. This is also the key.
7. The key to real waterproofing? Rubberize IT. This will create a 30 Mil membrane. You will never see a leak. Look up that product. It's non porous. You build it up by painting it on. It works better than a liner. Liner's tear. This won't.
8. Go look online at any above ground pool. The largest you can find. The sides are a joke. And yet it holds up with no leaks. Why? Because of how the water is contained. They use a 20 mil liner for the standard pools. Yet the framing holds up hear after year. The key to everything is waterproofing but the foundation must be solid both with concrete and rebar. The rebar keeps the concrete tensile strength. The PSI is also crucial. If you do all the things above? And listen to Steve? You can and will build a pool that will last you a lifetime. The only difference is with Rubberize IT product? It will last longer than you if you go 30 mil on the buildup and use the material behind it shown on the website and never have to do a resurface your entire lifetime. Know these products. Understand them inside out. And it can and will be done.
Appreciate your advice on this, as I will follow it when I do my renovation. I have an Endless Pool, so only 30" water depth, and only 7 x 14' interior dimension. I need to replace the steel frame (rusted out after 24 years), so am planning to do the walls with 8" thick hollow block, mortared, reinforced and filled as you recommend. Interior wall surfaces I'm planning to use large format (2 x 4 ft) porcelain, rectified edge, with controlled lippage (I'm experienced with that). Bottom surface will be the shaved pebble stone mats. The floor slab is 8" thick concrete, on-grade, thus no groundwater issues, and even though I'm on a steep slope, the whole tub hasn't slid downhill over yet (heh). Structure is surrounded by CCA wood deck and underpinnings, so is just as sturdy as the year I built it (1999). My main question focuses on the type of waterproofing that I should use on the interior surfaces before I install the tile. Is Redgard recommended? Should I use Schleuter membrane fabric as a better option? Should I consider using both? Love your name, by the way!
Thanks for the honest information. I am planning on building a concrete pool and spoke with an engineer as recommended. He immediately adressed all the concerns you had.
This is the way yo do it. Build a pool if you like...but hire an engineer to help with design, site inspection and soil samples, concrete and rebar specifications etc.
Been looking for a channel like yours for while! Great content!!
Thank you! I am happy you find this information helpful. Cheers
Very professional and a lot of valuable information. I’m just planning on making a pond with a cement brick wall on one side , it I found this very useful. Thanks
Absolutely informative down to the core. Should I fill water in my pool before I put the tiles to see if there are any leaks.
Is Redguard approved/recommended by the manufacture for poils?
ok so would like more info on Repiping a concrete pool, drilling holes, gluing pipes to concrete? and plaster / sealing around pipes. thanks
please make a video, there are not any good videos on this.
This is a LOT of technical information. I am doing my best to put content like this out there, but if you want more specific info you will have to look at my website where I have long form articles, pictures and diagrams etc. as it helps to explain these complicated subjects. I have hundreds of articles on my website, and perhaps this is a good page to get started on: www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/pools.html
or you can also jump to the page which lists every article in chronological order, www.swimmingpoolsteve.com/pages/pool-blog.html
I have had an Endless Pool for 24 years (built it myself), now intending to replace the galvanized steel wall panels with filled concrete block, rebar & mortared joints. I'm planning to use large format porcelain tile on the inside wall surfaces (I have experience with that). Floor surface will be the shaved stone mats. Will the Redguard work for waterproofing over the concrete base and wall block surfaces? Would the Schleuter membrane be better?
Steve, what do you think of the polymer pebble plasters? (pebbletec, stonescapesetc)??
Always the best advice. I’m self building an ICF pool with consulting advice from Steve for equipment layout He is a great resource and replies same day most of the time.
Great channel. Long time concrete contractor and would like to build one myself next spring. Couldn't agree more on the foundation designs, steel is a dollar a pound. Put it in. Concerning waterproofing, would you consider waterproofing BOTH sides of the wall? We do tons of elevator/containment pits, and typically waterproof the outside. Do you have any input on a concrete admixture such as Xypex? Really have found them effective.
Last question: what are your thoughts on installing a recess tile lip near the top?
Thanks for any input.
In my experience waterproofing both sides of the shell is a potential issue where you can trap moisture in the middle. In theory it is dry in there with waterproofing on both sides, but in the real world faults or imperfections will allow water permeation where it now becomes trapped. Waterproofing of the interior shell is the industry standard, with control of the surrounding ground water being an important part of this system. You definitely want a french drain and/or perimeter drainage system in place to take water away from the pool area as opposed to allowing it to pool behind the walls. As far as Xypex, I used this quite a lot in the 2000's but ultimately I could not rely on it as a waterproofing agent alone. By that I mean suppose we are going to put a pool on a roof above a bunch of million dollar condos...is Xypex REALLY going to be enough? Not for me. Not even within a structual membrane box. Or what about a regular inground pool, but with $100k of imported glass tiles going in? Will Xypex prevent water permeation to the point where you can be certain you will not have efflorescence degrade the thin set bond to the tiles? For some contractors maybe the answer is yes. For me it is no. I use membranes like Redgard, Hydroban by Laticrete, and Basecrete as mentioned in this video. There are others as well. These are just the few that I have had experience with. As for tile, every pool needs tile along the waterline. Tiles and the plaster interior surface should be flush. This is standard for how to build concrete pools. Cheers.
Steve, great explanatory video. This is top notch content. I have a question. Would poured walls work for a pool instead of the sprayed? I understand that when it’s sprayed it’s all done in one spray and there’s no seams but with poured walls you have the wall and the slab which creates a seam at the bottom. Just trying to understand if that will work if waterproofed properly.
I’m in construction business and plastering/stucco is one of the trades I do for a living so I’m familiar with all of this but not much with concrete.
Any input would be much appreciated.
CIP pools - cast in place, are common enough. Some pour in one shot, some in two. I like the idea of pouring the floor and then the walls in a separate pour. If you use a water stop and a urethane bead where the two meet it can be waterproof. Then add your waterproof layer to the whole pool and then plaster. Some skip waterproofing but I definitely endorse not skipping that step.
Ive planned a pool with 8" formed walls and 5 inch base. Its all uniform 4" depth with both sides having a 12" depth for the kids. First thing is, I am not excavating ground for the pool. I have a cut and fill site and plan to build the pool walls - stand alone and then backfill after removing the forms. I'm planning to pour the base first and then the walls, with a key seal waterstop. I have drawn in a bond beam, which will also have the skimmers and returns placed in the forms - Should the skimmer intakes be two 3 feet apart? and tee in the wall leading back to the skimmer. Can you comment? Can I trouble you for another question - I will have to mount the skimmers in the forms
Great informative video bro...im from the Caribbean...just gathering info. to start my own conc. pool soon. Thinking of doing a saltwater pool. What water proofing brands do u recommend or can the same that u just mention work...thanks...
Look into basecrete as the waterproofing solution for your concrete pool. There are other options also but this is a good one.
AMAZING! Thank you so much for this video, very hard to find information about it elsewhere! - I am interested in pouring a concrete hot tub where the concrete is left with a raw finish. Do you think I could achieve the right level of waterproofing by using a water proofing additive like "Sika WT-240" or "Bio San 500"? If so which do you recommend? Also if I were to use an additive would you also recommend using a sealer like "Siloxa-Tek 8500"? For reference, the hot tub will be freestanding in a garden area. Many many thanks!
If you look at the documentation for most (if not all) reputable pool tile manufacturers, they recommend 3 separate layers of waterproofing, 1st a colloidal silica product sprayed onto the raw concrete shell, after it has set/hardened. 2nd, a cementitious membrane like basecrete, or one of the similar products from other manufacturers. 3rd and final, an elastomeric membrane like hydrobahn. When I build my pool which will have a full tile interior, I'll be using all 3 waterproofing layers just as the tile manufacturer recommends. It's not worth risking 10's of thousands of dollars worth of tile because you cheaped out on a a few thousand dollars extra worth or waterproofing products.
100% truth. Even more important when you start talking about the more expensive tile options like glass
Is it worth doing both basecrete and hydroban? I’m building a concrete block plunge pool (filling voids with concrete and 1/2” rebar). Interior will be full tile, hydroban alone seems sufficient for waterproofing but I’m wondering if adding basecrete will increase overall strength and extend the pools lifetime
I would not mix and match waterproofing systems. You pick one and use that one only.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve thanks for the reply, your vids have been extremely helpful. Would you recommend basecrete over hydroban for a block build then?
@cameronm18 I would. When used properly I do endorse basecrete over any other waterproofing solutions. But that is just based on my experiences, and not to say that other waterproofing solutions are no good. I just prefer the Basecrete products. Laticrete would be my second choice for what it's worth, but it would also depend on whether you had a weir wall or not (water on both sides of the wall)
Great to hear someone that agrees with me.
Not a pool guy but I think using Xypex c-500 mixed in with the concrete to waterproof would be a great way to stop water from penetrating from both sides.
It definitely works. I used this primarily for waterproofing artificial rock waterfalls but have seen it used in pools as well. It will make the pool more water resistant, but for me it was not reliable enough for situations where waterproof was a paramount concern, like a pool over living areas for example.
Hi Steve, thanks for sharing your expertise ~ I have a few questions 1)did I hear you say that a plaster pool should be redone nearly every 7 years. Are you talking about the old plaster being removed and replaced every 7 -10 years. 2) did you say for a tile pool the waterproofing needs to be done as opposed to the tile simply being installed on the plaster. Is that what you have seen fail? By water proofing are you talking something like the Basecrete you mentioned? 3) you talked about a french drain system for pools .... I can not picture a French drain system for below grade pools ? Thanks again for your work here :)
To your questions, a plaster pool should be redone every 7 to 10 years max. Like a shingled roof you can add a second layer of plaster one time, and after that you have to take everything down to bare substrate and plaster again. Waterproofing should be everywhere in a pool, it is just that the tiles will probably be the first thing that fails as a result of not having it. Concrete is porous and will leak (leech) water which causes mineral buildup and wear of the concrete as the cement component slowly erodes away with the passing of water. This is what I mean by waterproofing, but also controlling ground water around and adjacent to pools is of paramount importance as a host of problems can occur from uncontrolled or high ground water tables. The drainage system in that case is a sump well to the pool floor which sits adjacent to the pool, or a French drain which aims to control water (most commonly) at the foot of the walls. Basecrete is one concrete waterproofer which is useful for making the concrete structure waterproof. There are others as well such as Redgard, Hydroban by Laticrete and more.
In Arizona we cant build pools without engineering. Engineers often call out for 12" x 12" grid #3 rebar. If the walls exceed 6' tall we increase the verticals to 6" on center. In areas where we have expansive soils like farm land we do 6" x 6" #3 grid. If we are building a masonry structure like a big grotto or something on the pool we increase to 6" x 6" grid of #4 rebar. I always overkill wherever possible.
Calcium from the water gets behind tile and expands and pops tiles off. Pebble-Tec is BY FAR the bast interior finish.
It is crazy to me that there are still some areas where you can build a concrete pool without any engineering specifications at all.
@@Swimmingpoolsteve We have a company called "BYOP" here and their clients are out there building total shit shows. It is nuts that someone would even want to BYOP!
@@Swimmingpoolsteve here in the southern US very little is focused on consumer safety. I'm in South Carolina, and by far laws favor businesses. We're decades behind other places in so many areas, and this is one of them.
Can we go with concrete thickness of 6 inches with 10mm 8 inch centre to centre . My pool size is 15 feet * 30 feet. Pls reply
I wrote a very detailed response above to everyone. Steve's info is fantastic. I add to how to build a cinder block pool.
Thank you very much for the insight
Are you still thinking to go the DIY route for a pool? More than ever home owners are going that way. Pools are so expensive now and wait times for good builders so long. It can be done but it is so important to understand the difficulty of.the project
@@Swimmingpoolsteve yes we are still planning on doing the pool DIY, keep in mind this will be about two years from this summer. We just bought our first home and have always dreamed of digging our own pool for our kiddo/neighborhood kids. My wife and I are up for the challenge, we just want to make it exactly right.
I like this video i have subscribe and I will be watching this again
Outstanding
Unless you work in the industry and have the real world experience, this just seems like a terrible idea. I did visit an old farmhouse once where the farmer built his own concrete pool. They weren't going for aesthetics but it was functional.
I feel like I just watched “Scared Straight”.
I think you scare me out of a block small pool but concrete seems impossible for me to do by myself
I'm a masonry contractor not a pool builder but...block walls are built in basements with 10 ft. ceilings everyday, hydrostatic pressure is on 1 side of the wall. in a pool, once filled the pressure would be on both sides. if every cell was filled with block fill concrete and rebar every 5th cell I think the strength would be fine. on the proper footing cracking would occur similar to a concrete wall. cracking would not occur along mortar joint as mentioned because the cells would be filled with concrete. however, expansion cracks could occur just like concrete. pool plaster has some flexibility, maybe even a fiber reinforced coat before pool plaster would help? block might not be the best option, but for different reasons than mentioned
I'll add I left out details like bond beams and other things so don't take what I said as the only things needed
Why isn’t the plaster waterproof
Because it's porous. I just wrote a response above on how to build a pool. Please read it. It will help you understand.
So when I see these guys with a hose spray in the walls of rebar they are spraying 8 inches of concrete sprain
I’m building a block pool with concrete floor ,do I add a liquid waterproofer to my concrete as I mix ?
O,op