Fellow E36 gutted track car guy checking in :) Thanks for posting and glad to have this car back on the channel. You definitely need that ASC actuator plugged in to keep the ABS happy, doesn't need to be mechanically connected to the TB, just the electronics to keep everything happy.
Great E36 vids thanks for making them as Im in the process of turning my car into a TT5 car. But I went with the Massive Kit with the AP CP8350 calipers (slightly bigger than the Essex kit and you can run generic Wilwood blanks). So far I like it way more than stock.
Justin, as always great content. As for getting more viewers perhaps if your title was BMW E36 track car brake problems it might come up in more searches. As for the brakes, what are your rotor temperatures coming off the track? I have seen brake pad smear happening at temperatures that are too low meaning not in the optimal range that is recommended by the brake pad manufacturer. And then of course there are those unconnected wires. You have brake cooling ducts and perhaps your rotors are getting too cold between heavy braking intervals? Maybe tape over your brake cooling ducts? I'm sure these are all things that you have thought of but I figured I would throw out a few ideas. I look forward to hearing of the solution. Have a great track season 2023!
Thanks for the tips, the search part of it is always a hit or miss it seems, but I'll try that. I never thought the brakes may not be reaching their operating temp, definitely something to think about 🤔 I was always wondering if they were not cooling quickly enough...my 86's work fine with the same pads but no brake ducts. I'll try taping up the ducts and see what happens 👍
@@TheBTRGarage evaluating your lock up wear pattern you may have too much camber..... as Ross Bentley and others say excess camber reduces braking capacity...the $24 infrared temperature gun from harbor freight works great for rotors and tire temps.
@@jamesinoregon1081 Before the ABS issues it would stop just fine, long as I didn't have the severe vibrations 😆 The car was setup by my old race shop who has several National Championships.
Used DTC60 on my e36 at Laguna Seca a few years back. They were absolutely terrible, horrible shaking and overall just poor performance. Have G-Loc R12’s now and they are significantly better. No more shuddering or shaking, better feel and no crazy grinding noises.
Interesting, stock M3 calipers? Mine will work good and smooth for a few sessions. But, something changes as they get more and more use...pad deposits makes the most sense, just not sure why.
Okay, lets think about this. Maybe too much camber for the track. Maybe too aggressive compound. I have run Wilwood Poly H on the front and have run Hawk HT 10 with zero issues. How often do you grease the pins. I bought a kit from Massive brakes out of Canada. Get over 13k on the rotors. Run e46 m3 abs, way better. What are your spring rates?
Camber should be fine, since the car will stop great when everything is actually working (until the vibrations start back up). I grease the pins whenever I'm doing this brake maintenance, did it at the track the other weekend too when I smoked this tire :( By M3 ABS are you talking about the Mk60 ABS system? If so, yes that is on the long(er) term list of upgrades.
@@TheBTRGarage From Hoosier:For optimum performance the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires require about 3 degrees of negative camber. There will be a trade off in maximum performance to maximize wear. Generally, 1/2 degrees less than optimum will result in the best compromise for wear and speed. Less than 2.5 degrees negative can result in excessive wear on the outer shoulder junction. Higher pressures are needed when the vehicle has limited negative camber. The Hoosier tires typically offer better performance with spring/shock rates higher than previous brands you may have run. I cured a tire wear issue with stiffer springs. Your comment about the issue with new rotors makes me think the compound is not the right one for you and maybe that is affecting the transfer. Hawk has a graph on their site that compares the compounds at temp ranges. This is where I would look. Do you run coilovers? If so I had an issue with mine, low budget, dropping over time and under braking the tire was actually rubbing in the top of the fender well. I kept looking for worn parts when it was a ride height issue. What is you height enter of the hub to the fender lip?
The suspension and alignment is setup to work with the Hoosiers. MCS 2-ways and about -3.5 camber in front. These are setups done by my BMW race shop who have several national champ race cars. I think you might be right on the pad compound, the car has lots of grip but is also pretty light (2800 with me in it). Im gonna try another pad brand/compound and see how it goes.
@@TheBTRGarage Curious to see what a different compound brings. When I work on these type of issues I like to draw on things seen and heard. Example pro drivers driving a teammates set up and not liking or being able to get the same results. See it in NASCAR to F1 so I always take shop/tire manufacture's/suspension settings all with a grain of salt simply because their first job is to sell me something and then see if I have the skill level to get the results. I don't. With compounds I am hoping there is a reason we have many to choose and think each compound has a speed, weight, and tire grip equation that is there if we can find it. Good luck and looking forward to your results! Enjoy the content!
*My last BMW video has only 216 views :( Think we can get this one higher? lol*
Fellow E36 gutted track car guy checking in :) Thanks for posting and glad to have this car back on the channel. You definitely need that ASC actuator plugged in to keep the ABS happy, doesn't need to be mechanically connected to the TB, just the electronics to keep everything happy.
Hey thanks for watching! :) Hopefully that is all that it is, it has been a royal pain with no ABS :o
Great E36 vids thanks for making them as Im in the process of turning my car into a TT5 car. But I went with the Massive Kit with the AP CP8350 calipers (slightly bigger than the Essex kit and you can run generic Wilwood blanks). So far I like it way more than stock.
What size rotors with that kit? It seems everything is on backorder again, so having a hard time finding anything available. 😕
Justin, as always great content. As for getting more viewers perhaps if your title was BMW E36 track car brake problems it might come up in more searches. As for the brakes, what are your rotor temperatures coming off the track? I have seen brake pad smear happening at temperatures that are too low meaning not in the optimal range that is recommended by the brake pad manufacturer. And then of course there are those unconnected wires. You have brake cooling ducts and perhaps your rotors are getting too cold between heavy braking intervals? Maybe tape over your brake cooling ducts? I'm sure these are all things that you have thought of but I figured I would throw out a few ideas. I look forward to hearing of the solution. Have a great track season 2023!
Thanks for the tips, the search part of it is always a hit or miss it seems, but I'll try that.
I never thought the brakes may not be reaching their operating temp, definitely something to think about 🤔 I was always wondering if they were not cooling quickly enough...my 86's work fine with the same pads but no brake ducts. I'll try taping up the ducts and see what happens 👍
@@TheBTRGarage evaluating your lock up wear pattern you may have too much camber..... as Ross Bentley and others say excess camber reduces braking capacity...the $24 infrared temperature gun from harbor freight works great for rotors and tire temps.
@@jamesinoregon1081 Before the ABS issues it would stop just fine, long as I didn't have the severe vibrations 😆 The car was setup by my old race shop who has several National Championships.
Used DTC60 on my e36 at Laguna Seca a few years back. They were absolutely terrible, horrible shaking and overall just poor performance. Have G-Loc R12’s now and they are significantly better. No more shuddering or shaking, better feel and no crazy grinding noises.
Interesting, stock M3 calipers? Mine will work good and smooth for a few sessions. But, something changes as they get more and more use...pad deposits makes the most sense, just not sure why.
@@TheBTRGarage 328is calipers. I have the same exact issue. Perfect when new, really good for one or two sessions, terrible half way thru the day.
Okay, lets think about this. Maybe too much camber for the track. Maybe too aggressive compound. I have run Wilwood Poly H on the front and have run Hawk HT 10 with zero issues.
How often do you grease the pins. I bought a kit from Massive brakes out of Canada. Get
over 13k on the rotors. Run e46 m3 abs, way better. What are your spring rates?
Camber should be fine, since the car will stop great when everything is actually working (until the vibrations start back up). I grease the pins whenever I'm doing this brake maintenance, did it at the track the other weekend too when I smoked this tire :( By M3 ABS are you talking about the Mk60 ABS system? If so, yes that is on the long(er) term list of upgrades.
@@TheBTRGarage From Hoosier:For optimum performance the Hoosier P-Metric radial tires require about 3 degrees of negative camber. There will be a trade off in maximum performance to maximize wear. Generally, 1/2 degrees less than optimum will result in the best compromise for wear and speed. Less than 2.5 degrees negative can result in excessive wear on the outer shoulder junction. Higher pressures are needed when the vehicle has limited negative camber. The Hoosier tires typically offer better performance with spring/shock rates higher than previous brands you may have run.
I cured a tire wear issue with stiffer springs. Your comment about the issue with new rotors makes me think the compound is not the right one for you and maybe that is affecting the transfer. Hawk has a graph on their site that compares the compounds at temp ranges. This is where I would look. Do you run coilovers? If so I had an issue with mine, low budget, dropping over time and under braking the tire was actually rubbing in the top of the fender well. I kept looking for worn parts when it was a ride height issue. What is you height enter of the hub to the fender lip?
The suspension and alignment is setup to work with the Hoosiers. MCS 2-ways and about -3.5 camber in front. These are setups done by my BMW race shop who have several national champ race cars.
I think you might be right on the pad compound, the car has lots of grip but is also pretty light (2800 with me in it). Im gonna try another pad brand/compound and see how it goes.
@@TheBTRGarage Curious to see what a different compound brings. When I work on these type of issues I like to draw on things seen and heard. Example pro drivers driving a teammates set up and not liking or being able to get the same results. See it in NASCAR to F1 so I always take shop/tire manufacture's/suspension settings all with a grain of salt simply because their first job is to sell me something and then see if I have the skill level to get the results. I don't. With compounds I am hoping there is a reason we have many to choose and think each compound has a speed, weight, and tire grip equation that is there if we can find it. Good luck and looking forward to your results! Enjoy the content!
By chance Justin do you live in Arizona, because I feel as if I saw your GR86 when i was working.
Yep! We moved here about 2.5 years ago from Denver.
@@TheBTRGarage That's awesome man, hope you're comfortable with this dyslexic weather, and I hope to see you on the road again. :)
Is the stock brake master cylinder the right size for m3 brakes?
e36 chassis is all the same, far as I know. My race shop did the M3 front end upgrades and MC was not part of anything changed.