Natural Gas BBQ Grill Gas Line Install
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2020
- How to install a gas line for a natural gas BBQ. Barbecue gas line sizing, fittings, installation techniques, and quick disconnect operation.
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
12’ Hose and Quick Disconnect: geni.us/mQBKRgj
Gas Leak Detector: geni.us/EgZfR
½” Gas Valve: geni.us/rIagk
½” x 3/8” BLK Coupling: geni.us/z3XBjX
How to size a gas line: • Sizing Natural Gas and...
𝗦𝘂𝗽𝗽𝗼𝗿𝘁
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Хобби
I just watched to confirm the BBQ coupler hardware. But I watched the entire video, simply enjoying your well organized scripting that really covered all the important points... including the 'gloves vs sheet metal' reminder... :-)
Exactly what I was looking for, for the final step on my black stone griddle.
Thank you for posting! I just needed to know how to reconnect the line from the grill to the gas line.
Pipe has to be taped with 2 layers of approved tape or sleeved when in passes through a wall, and needs support on outside as the 90 degree elbow is a swing joint.
Came for the gas line, stayed for the Canadian accent.
Video hasn’t started yet and I’m already excited!
You mean u don't like how they say Berpee Kew ?
What accent? Sounds normal to me.
Good eh?
Really great video! Honestly, just what I was looking for, couldn't have asked for better!
Nice clean simple job with good explanation
Damn bro. Nasty cut. Nice work. I did practically the same for grill and smoker. No more having to deal with propane.
Thanks for this informative video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Wow tight space. Nice work Add on pipe dope for extra sealing!!
Pretty sure you shouldn't use pipe dope with the yellow gas tephlon, but I'm not a plumber.
Great idea. New for me thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for sharing your project to DIY.
super video. even included links to parts. You are AWSOME!
Thanks Ken, and thank you so much for the donation! I really appreciate it. Cheers!
This idea occurred to me the other day so I had to see if anyone had already done it. Thanks for showing. Now if I can only talk my wife into it, she is a walking no sometimes.
4:20 .. as you put your hand in there .. I was screaming in my head .. watch out for the edges … hope your hand doing going okay! Thanks for the video.
Very well done, thank you.
Hey. Great vid. So the line feeding the fireplace was a 1/2" flex? To 3/8" or was the fireplace 1/2 all the way? Then you t'd the flex ro black pipe 1/2" out the wall to 3/8". Could you not have t'd with 1/2" flare and ran 1/2" copper through the wall? I was thinking of doing a line and was going to do just that, tap the water heater 1/2" copper with flare and run 1/2 copper out the wall. Thankyou.
If the gas fireplace vents directly out the side wall, will there be any clearance requirements for the new gas line that exits the wall ? Thanks for the great video !
Great information, thank you!
100% Perfect, many thanks
Very well educating average joe like me thanks
This is very interesting. I wasn't sure it was possible to connect two "appliances", a BBQ and a gas fireplace onto one gas line. I want the reverse to you. I have a gas BBQ, but I am considering a gas fireplace on the inside wall to the gas BBQ. Gives me hope it might be possible!
Where is your regulator in this setup? I’m curious because I did a propane to nat. Gas conversion and I’m wondering if I need to re-plumb to buy a regulator before my valve
Real professional job
Great job and great video!!...thanks alot for this
That water heater drip leg tho! 6:16
Outstanding video 👍
Very good video, I have a question,I am going to do a fire pit and a BBQ grill on my backyard and my question is, can the gas and electricity lines go together so as not to dig another ditch? And I will need two gas lines if I am going to make a fire pit and a BBQ grill or just need one gas pipe ? the fire fit and the BBQ will be separated from each other 25 feet
Ya use the factory coated Black Iron? Or did you wrap where it passes through the wall?
I'm a gas fitter and the only thing I would of done differently is put a pipe stand off bracket on the outside wall so the pipe is supported and cant be turned at the elbow in case someone bumps it into accidently, which is code in my local jurisdiction. Another minor thing is that you aren't supposed to trim the jacket of the CSST line so far back, only enough so that you can put the compression ring on. You shouldnt be able to see bare metal. Clean work otherwise 👍
you missed pressure testing correctly
@@The1badjack In my area, for such a short extension of the gas line, a soap test is adequate. But better safe than sorry I suppose.
i am from Canada and the jurisdiction here made my pipe-fitter cut the ( pipe stand off bracket) right in-front of me said if building shifts we would rather have the twist a bit instead of pulling apart completely. also he missed cleaning with oil before painting to prevent rust heading inwards.
@@adannash5949 funny... I am from Ontario and the stand-off to support the 90 is mandatory by T.S.S.A. code
@@adannash5949 Paint doesn't stick to oil. A coat of iron oxide primer will prevent any rust.
Thank you for this video. I want to rede and improve my current supply. What paint did you use?
Great work as always!
Thanks Dynamic Garage!
Excellent video!!!
Good job.
SWEET!!!
Great Video but you missed out one step Gas-fitter that i know (Elk Island Gasfitting) told me it's very important to Clean the pipe with Oil and steel wool or abrasive pad before painting it -- otherwise if you paint over any small rust that has formulated on the pipe the direction of the rust will head towards the innards of the pipe (centre) like hot chilli's burning a hole through your stomach then we got a real leakage problem.
Hey I bought the quick adapter and the gas hose but the hose isn’t connecting to the quick adapter properly do the gas need to be on?
Nice and clean explanation !... and all who are watching this , you may also have need in replacements if you got damaged gas grill parts like Flame Sensors, Gas Grill Burners, Griddle & Grill Knobs , Gas Grill Orifice and more ! if in need you can get them from us! ….Thank You.....
Good to see your jurisdiction doesn’t require a licensed plumber! LOL. Nice video!
Can you use flex line outside as well?
Did you keep the same line leading to your pit
Nice work! Could a 3/8 to 1/2 reducing bushing be used at the valve ,rather than that bell ?
Bushings increase the chances of splitting the fitting. That’s what I learned from a plumbing inspector that red tagged one of my dads jobs. A close nipple and bell reducer is best.
I would have put a "pipe stay" on outside to keep the 90 from twisting
instablaster
me too. the csst fittings are finicky.
Do you need a regulator for NG? I don't see one in your video so I am guessing my NG conversion unit is good without one.
Was the stove need the orfisis changed.from a propane
Is there a rule for the minimum line length should be between the connector and the device (grill)?
Awesome video. Straight to the point with no Annoying music and sound effects. 👌 👍👍
Just a question... on the outside pipe, downstream of the 90... shouldn't there be a stand-off pipe holder be used to prevent the 90 from being lossened accidently?
Yes
Does anyone have a link to buy the gray rust-resistant metal pipe paint he mentioned?
What are all the small fittings that i will need?
Awesome Video!
I recently moved my BBQ and needed to buy a longer NG hose (was 6'-0", now 12'-0"). It arrived today from Amazon but the male fitting that goes into the quick-disconnect is 3/4" dia. The existing male fitting is .565" dia. (9/16"). The new hose comes with a new quick-disconnect piece but I need a licensed gas fitter in my area to perform the change out (presumably). Do you know if I can purchase a NG hose with a 9/16" male fitting that will fit into my existing quick-disconnect? You seem very knowledgeable and so I presume you are in fact a gas fitter yourself. Hope you can help. THX...
Hi Stephen, BBQ gas hoses and fitting sizes can get confusing. I was able to find this article on sizing: mbsturgis.com/media/documents/buying-guide.pdf
I would think your existing hose is 3/8" based off of the article? The 2 most common quick connect sizes for BBQs are 3/8" and 3/4".
There's a large selection of 3/8" BBQ hoses on Amazon. It might be the best bet to exchange the hose and then you don't have to get a gasfitter out to change the fitting.
Thanks for the question!
@@PROSDIY Thank you so much for your quick reply. Odd that it measures 9/16". But I will return the new hose and buy a 3/8". I will also check out the link you supplied. Once again. Very appreciated. Stay Safe!!!
No worries. Just double check with that article to make sure before reordering, but I'm pretty sure it's going to be 3/8". Thank you and take care!
Great video ... i will leave this one to the pros tho .... my risk tolerance stops tops out with the potential for floods ... blowing up the house is above my pay grade.
When gas line pass through a masonry wall. It should be double sleeve.
No pressure regulator ?
I recommend a Dial/gauge pressure test should be completed in addition to the soaping of the new lines.
a what? elaborate internet friend!
@@JJ-ug9jm It means testing the new piping branch by installing a gauge and pressurizing with air, CO2 or nitrogen. In my city, the inspector will want to see it hold steady for at least 15 minutes at 15 psi. I think the code calls for a minimum of 10 psi. I'm not a plumber, but this is what they told me they wanted to see.
a soap test is sufficient after the original pressure test has been done, if you were to do a pressure test again you have to disconnect all appliances and cap lines, as the appliance gas valves are not rated for the test pressure
@@dwaynerenton1889 A separate shutoff for the new branch would solve that.
@@dwaynerenton1889 A minimum recommendation by code is a minimum, up to the technician if they're comfortable doing the bare minimum, that's fine, but not for me. I recommend multiple tests because it's the customers safety and family well being on the line.
the best part of this video was that beautiful napoleon at the end
What kind of paint did you use? I need to buy some
Great video by far the best how to on this
Totally illegal connection
@@scundoorsup5342 can you explain why is it illegal? Because he did it himself?
Have similar setup except we're using a dual port bbq gas outlet which has a safety feature. Our house runs on 2psi pressure though so I'm not sure if I need to install a regulator and step it down?? Running Napoleon Prestige grill . Help pls
Your pressure is definitely not 2 psi if your in a residential application. If your on ng your regulator is st the meter , lpg your regulator is at the tank.
@@jacob4639 Got it sorted out. The house runs on 2psi as per Fortis Gas. All appliances and equipment running on NGas has it own regulator. Installed one for the BBQ and all good.
if the BBQ is not connected to the quick connect, does it need to be capped at all ? Or does the quick connector act as a cap when not connected to a hose?
The quick connect has a spring loaded plug inside which seals the opening when the hose is removed. When the hose is inserted it pushes the plug into the open position allowing gas to flow 👍
Question. How come you couldn’t just run a 1/2 to 3/8 shut off valve to the quick connect. I did mines the exact same way with the 90 degree to 1/2 to the shut off to 1/2 nipple connected to a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer to a 3/8 nipple to the quick connect. That’s what I’ve been reading and many people do it this way. But my question would be why just eliminate the reducer by using 3/4 to 3/8 fitting. If you can answer me that would be great because I can’t find why it has to be done this way.
A 1/2" x 3/8" threaded gas certified shut off valve isn't very common. My distributor doesn't carry them. You're absolutely right, this would eliminate the need for a reducer. 1/2" threaded x 3/8" flared shut offs are common but that wouldn't help in this scenario.
@@PROSDIY ahhh I was looking at a laundry dryer hook up and just figured heeey why not just do that 1/2-3/8 fitting shut off and run the quick connect to that. Anyways good video I did so many research and your video was the best one but i wish u made it before I did mines , would of saved me some
Time lol good video!
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
12’ Hose and Quick Disconnect: geni.us/mQBKRgj
Gas Leak Detector: geni.us/EgZfR
½” Gas Valve: geni.us/rIagk
½” x 3/8” BLK Coupling: geni.us/z3XBjX
Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
I can’t tell what color that Teflon tape is but in my state you must use yellow for gas. I would have also installed a tee where you put the elbow outside the house and added a debris catch.
Correct, it is yellow gas approved tape.
Clause 6.13.1 - A dirt pocket shall be installed at the bottom of any piping or tubing on the final drop serving an appliance other than
(a) an illuminating appliance;
(b) a range;
(c) a clothes dryer;
(𝗱) 𝗮𝗻 𝗼𝘂𝘁𝗱𝗼𝗼𝗿 𝗴𝗿𝗶𝗹𝗹;
(e) a portable appliance or equipment;
(f) a decorative appliance;
(g) a gas log;
(h) a room heater; and
(i) an appliance incorporating a sediment trap.
Nice catch...but the items in code are mostly disposable appliances, so no sediment trap needed.
High or low pressure gas hose??
Kind of a basic question, I've run into this before, when you put that right angle fitting you obviously had the direction in mind (to the left), how do you gauge how tight is too tight to get the angle that you want (basically you want it going left instead of ending up pointing right)
That's a tough question. For me it's basically by feel. You don't want to bury the threads but you don't want to have it loose either. If a fitting/nipple is properly cut, it usually has roughly 2 threads left showing after tightened. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Also I am not sure as I cannot see the markings on the gas valve but usually a yellow handle denotes I terior rated shut off how ever there a few manufacturers that make a yellow handler exterior rated shut off.ensure you ha e used the correct one to be protected from weathering
Valves are imprinted with what they can be used for. Yellow does not necessarily mean its made just for gas, in fact most of the time its just the color they decided on, look for WOG. That indicates Water, Oil and Gas.
Is that brass quick connect safe to be left outdoors at all times ? Water won’t degrade it over time?
It's brass, its safe
how did you secure the black iron pipe in the wall so it doesnt move ?
It was connected inside the house, underneath the fireplace.
@@mr.september2879 didnt ask where it was connected. That part is shown.....
Just saved $500 from watching your video! Great video! Definitely a thumb up!
I'm not getting into the workmanship. It looked fine. However where I live. You have to have a valve at the disconnect that won't open unless there is a male fitting inserted into the quick connect and won't all you to disconnect the male guick connect fitting unless the valve is off.
Interesting. Never seen seen that style before but it sounds like a great, safe idea. They are not required here but the female side quick connect/disconnect will only flow gas with the male fitting fully inserted. Without the male fitting inserted no gas will flow out of the female fitting, even with the gas valve in the open position. Your system is still safer though.
If you wanted to add a T junction to this to add a fire pit extension, how would you do that
All flexible gas line currently requires grounding.
Don't you have to bond the flexible line to the electrical ground to avoid arc due to lightnings?
all csst has to be bonded this is why homeowner shouldn't perform their own work and should hire a professional
@@The1badjack His black iron gas main should already be grounded. As long as the gas main is grounded, he's good to go. If there is no ground, then yeah, it should be grounded with #6 AWG Copper
@@bullmoosepiper7732 Gas pipe, including rigid, cannot be used for grounding. The pipe is bonded, not grounded. Two entirely different purposes. Bonding is simply the act of mechanically connecting two or more conductive materials together to establish a conductive path between them.
@@The1badjack thank you for the correction. You’re right and I mix these terms up all the time. So question for you - Home Flex’s instructional video which you can find on YT says that if the rigid has line is bonded, then that is a safe installation for CSST. What do you recommend in terms of properly and safely installing CSST?
The reason gas piping is bonded is due to the fact that as the gas moves in the pipes, it generates a static charge. The bonding cable allows that static energy to harmlessly dussipate to ground.
Much better then causing sparks from a gas line.
According to the local building inspector, galvanized pipe is acceptable for gas line use. In the late 1900's it was approved due to the improvements in galvanizing technology. Apparently, early galvanizing processes were prone to the zinc coating flaking off and plugging orifices, etc. but now it is no longer an issue.
So is that mean, I have to hire someone certified tech to do my house, or I can do it myself as home owner ?😂 thanks much Sir 👍👍
It means I didn't see or hear anything. LOL! Cheers!
So can I do it? Myself as home owner.For my own house.? by law ?😂
Technically no. It depends on your local and national laws. Almost all areas would require a license gasfitter to complete this work. Some areas would require a permit, pressure test, and inspection completed. Some areas allow home owners to complete the work, but it has to be signed off by a licensed gas fitter. Then the liability is passed on to the gas fitter that inspected the work. It is up to the homeowner to research local codes to confirm what they are allowed to work on or not. Let it be electrical, plumbing, framing, HVAC, etc.
Now I am very clear the picture. I understand. Thank you so much for detail explained it.👍👍👍😜
If you burn your house down and you DIY the insurance won't cover you, FYI.
Hank Hill would be proud of you.
On the contrary, Hank Hill is all about propane and propane accessories. Butane and natural gas are bastard gases.
Good job my son
Sweet. Will this be cheaper than using propane?
In most areas it's cheaper to run natural gas than propane. Natural gas BBQs on average are slightly more expensive but usually pay for themselves in gas usage. The biggest benefit though is never running out of gas or exchanging/filling tanks.
If you have any black iron pipe in the system, it is a good idea to terminate the end of line going down. The gas tap gets a tee off the vertical on the horizontal so that any rust, etc., falls to a cap at the bottom while the gas line to the grill is protected. This avoids having to fight with rust in the grill burner or regulator. As for your leak test, not so much. I was required to pass a 100 PSI for 24 hours test.
So you’re suggesting he should have installed a drip tube? How long? 3 inches?
@@trailerparkray4549 long enough to sell all the copper piping for drinking money
What about switching out the orifice?
That's an option. Natural gas is more convenient and cheaper to run in Alberta, Canada.
Ya need new office or you have to make office hole almost double with drill bit
Must reduce cost vs tanks.
And track pipe no longer.can you use that yellow cheap fitting most houses blown will definitely happen of.this
How much would a job just like this, done by a professional, run me in CA?
While I’m hard core DIY, for home insurance reasons I always pull a city permit. Otherwise any accident that could be attributed to my work WOULD be attributed and I’d be left paying out of pocket. And if anyone got injured, liability (unpermited installation = gross negligence) skyrockets while insurance again becomes a problem. I’m not that comfortable with gas codes so I’d also hire someone licensed even if not required.
It is also ILLEGAL to preform Gasfitting without a license. Remember when mistakes are made water gets you wet, gas gets you dead. This is to be left to licensed professionals.
@@wheelinndealin That’s incorrect. A homeowner in California with a valid permit can do the work. Diagrams and calculations are required. A rough and final inspection by the permitting authority is also required.
www.contracosta.ca.gov/DocumentCenter/View/44633/RESIDENTIAL-GAS-PIPING
Personally I’d still use a plumber, but it’s not a legal requirement in my state. Might be in yours.
@@edbouhl3100 yeah in my state a plumber has to do it, that’s a scary thought that they allow that.
Whether the home owner can or can not do the work depends on local laws and regulations.
Some do not permit the work to be done other then by a licensed gas fitter, others allow the home owner to do the work and ether need a gas fitter to certify the work (and affix thire licence number to the work) or call an inspector to review the work.
To be fair you will not find many professionals who would want to attach thire license to some random homeowners work.... the price will probably be close to if not greater then the cost of them doing the work as they are assuming the liability.
When in doubt, just get a gas fitter
@@wheelinndealin Not always true. In Texas any homeowner can work on gas lines within their house without need for permit or a professional.
”This is it!”
" *getgg.life/nw/iskg* "
”Did it help you as well?”
"3:48"
垃圾。
-Lord
Extreme caution should be shown when re-working flexible gas piping. It is easy to screw it up. Many , if not all, manufacturers specify only persons trained in installation of their brand should be doing the work....AND I was right....at 2:15 you did not have the protective jacket under the nut as it was when you disconnected it...its there for a reason...
Of course they say that. It's all part of the system set up by Unions, the politicians they put in office, and the sweetheart regulations they get in exchange. Regulations are getting so out of control here in California. Every year they make more and more home repairs illegal if done by the home owner, forcing you to spend hundreds of dollars for a professional even for the most trivial of things. A few years ago they also made it illegal to do any auto repair in your garage if the scope of it is beyond an oil change. Oh well.. guess i'm an outlaw now.
Baaar-bee-q holy shit this guys accent
Something bugs me about the way it goes from hard pipe to flex and then back to hard pipe. I would have put a tee on the pipe that feeds the fireplace instead of splitting the flex.
It's fine. its a retro fit. not alot of room in the FP for fitting.
barrrrbeque. you sound so canadian.
If you need instructions on how to light a BBQ pit, you probably shouldn't be installing gas lines.
I’m sorry if I come off rude, not trying to be. Just because you know how to install gas lines, doesn’t mean you know the specifications of a new grill. I’m an assistant plumber and I mainly install gas lines, but I’ve never bar-b-qued in my life. So buying a new fancy grill, not gonna lie but I’ll probably read the instructions.
@@22ChronicSmurf hey to do something like this is it really risky ? Or can it be done if you follow rules ? I’m trying to run a line from the outside of my house to the back yard but I’m actually doing it under ground . Any help? Or suggestions?
could anybody answer me that @ 5:45, would there be gas coming out?
There would not be. The connector at the end is in an "off" position unless there is a hose attached to it. If you retracted the collar though you would hear/ smell the gas being released.
Any mods needed for bbq?
I realize this is 5 months late, but: If your BBQ originally used propane, you need to replace the burner in it with a natural gas one. Alternatively I think you can drill the gas holes out bigger, as natural gas does not put out as much BTU per cu.ft. as propane. I think I got that right. You'll have to search a BBQ specialist to tell you how MUCH bigger the holes have to be. Myself, I just bought a natural gas replacement burner as the old propane one was rusted out anyway.
Does this works for a generator use!
Most likely no because generator needs a much larger diameter pipe to be able to get the correct amount of gas flow.
What's the cost if you were doing it for someone else
Be careful people if you don’t know don’t blow up your house !! It’s better to pay 💰
Unfortunately this sort of video will lead someone who doesn't know what they're doing causing god only knows damage/injury. In the UK anyone who works with gas in any capacity must be trained and assessed competent before they can lawfully work. We are also retested every 5. years.
Hmmm... Maybe I should wear my gloves, I always say that right after I get cut😂🤣🤣
I’d literally blow myself up
Doesn’t each line have to have its own run/leg off of the main line (to clarify meaning the primary 1”feeder line running through your house, NOT meaning additional back to meter) and NOT daisy chain off of another appliances leg/line?! Especially if you need to run 2 or more at the same time
Me, I want to do the reverse. I have a condo in an area where one propane supplier has a monopoly and gouges us for fuel. I want a line running from outside into the house so I can buy 5 gallon propane tanks near my other home at less than half the price and run that into the condo.
I assume your heat is propane? When it's dead get an all electric heat pump HVAC system installed. If you're in a northern climate get a propane backup. Sounds like you could save a ton of money.
@@gingerman5123. I had three homes with heat pumps. In a total of 8 years, I had to replace two heat pumps - never again. Plus the condo is in a ski area. At the outside temps there, heat pumps are not efficient.
@@gingerman5123. The outside temperature is below freezing for more than half the time I need heat. Heat pumps are inefficient in these circumstances. Then again I once owned three homes with heat pumps for a total of 8 years during which time two of them failed and had to be replaced at great expense, so I will never use heat pumps again.
@@67daltonknox If you have AC you are using a heatpump. A "heating" heat pump just has the valves necessary to run the refrigerant in the opposite direction.
@@gingerman5123.Yes A/C is a heat pump. So is your fridge, but the term "heat pump" applied to heating and cooling in buildings is used to refer to a reversible heat pump. These in my experience are an expensive disaster.