I am a roofer that is Sydney Australia born and bred, I am really enjoying these vids from Roger, they are very informative. I am never going to install doors, but I do find these interesting. I came across Rogers / Skill Build vids looking at drills. Keep up the good work .
+REVHE4D Thanks Revhead. The way I see it is that all information is useful somewhere down the line. I pick up stuff I think I will never use and then one day I find it comes in handy.
@@george4vIogging hey it’s going as well as can be expected considering the lockdown. If you’d like a nosey take a look at my Instagram account @carryongrowingrkid
@@george4vIogging sorry pressed send to soon. We’ve had a few hiccups. No roof tiles in the whole of England and waiting for steal beams to be fitted but we are definitely getting there now. My internal walls are coming down this week and I am ordering my cladding once I can decide on colour. Hope it goes well. We consult sky builder on everything 🤣 R Rodge has a video on it all. Enjoy and be proud of all that money you’ll save doing it yourself 😬 😬
Great tutorial!I really like the sub-frame concept.The stackable systems we typically install, require the head, sill and jambs to be installed separately.Really nice system.Thanks!
Just watch that threshold. Bring the damp proofing up the back of the fram and dam up the channel ends with silicone. The bottom channel drains through the weep holes.
Thanks, Dan the man and the doors are still working well with zero problems. I think all the stories you hear about trouble with bi-folds are due to them being thrown in.
Hey Rog! Decent install however the following might help out some diy'ers... I always lay bifold cills on fresh sand/cement with packers around every 600 or hard stable points. Once the doors are glazed and the weight is on it can get all kinky with only mastic under it. Fitting the locking screws is best done once glazed as you'd be surprised how much they can drop as the screws are rarely the same guage as the holes.The main culprits are the roller hinges where the glazed doors should be lifted to the correct height and the locking screws installed at the bottom of the hole so they can't head south. With the gasket cut top and bottom first, pushing enough length past the vertical beads, then mitre the left and right gaskets adding 100mm and compressing it tight up from top to bottom using a glazing shovel. You may have to trim a little but it'll never gap on shrinkage.. Great explanation of toe and heeling btw! 👍 All the best..
Thanks Roger. I have seen the guys put the whole thing on plastic packers and it is better than bedding on sand and cement as it will shrink but it still looks a little strange. My method was to get a perfect level bed and let that go off for a couple of days. The silicone beads compressed equally and the bottom track is perfectly level. I found that bit easy (basic building) put getting those frames to stay square is a little more tricky. I have another one to do in a few weeks so I will try and incorporate your tips.
Skill Builder Hi! If you build the threshold brick course that flat and level then I'd love to fit doors for you! Most of the builders openings I fit into are garbage with the steel running out of level down on the side that the threshold brickwork runs up! I know the muck can shrink a tad but I seem to get straighter cills this way. If I only end up with enough room for silicone and packers I tend to start with only 2 fixings in the lock side so it's easier to move up or down and re check levels along as I glaze up. (3 and 5 part bifolds) Squaring wise with my suppliers it always seems that one jamb is longer than the other so I never bother to be honest.. dead straight level cill, jambs upright on the level and just straight line the head through. As soon as the hinge side jamb is in the right place I stick a head fixing in it so it can't move. Using a tape measure to set the gap between leaf and head when glazing so any discrepancy is at the threshold and less obvious! I know we're only talking a couple of mms but it is nice to aim for perfect. Great explanation of the low threshold issue too btw, I have to explain that to every single customer and talk them out of room divider type thresholds.. Hope the upcoming one goes well, I'm renovating my house at the moment so am finding all your videos extremely helpful, thanks a load 👍
Very good series well presented and full of useful information. Roger you and your team keep up the good work. You should have a show on really or home a natural presenter.
Thanks Michael I used to do quite a lot of tele back in the day. The Terrace, Watchdog, Rogue Traders and a whole load of daytime t.v crap that I would rather forget. It came to an end and RUclips started up. I have a lot more control over content. Television would never allow you 15 minutes on fitting some doors, it is all fast moving, froth.
Best video I've seen. I have folding doors, but the one on the end which forms the first door to open has dropped so that it won't close without a really tough pulling action. Can I undo the hinges as you say and raise the door ??? Thanks,
Great video, can I ask when you adjust the sliding hinge plate via the grub screws will this move the door height up or down? Or just the position of the hinge plate?
Roger, I know this is an old video now, so wondered if you'd encountered any issues since with cold bridging? My aluminium bi-folds were fitted with the cill directly on the outside course of engineering brick. Whenever it's cold outside, the inner cill is ice-cold and covered in condensation, despite being thermally broken laterally. I can only conclude that the fitting directly onto the brick course is the cause of the thermal bridge. I have seen many installations using packers below the cill, which would alleviate this
Hi Graham The cill is acting as a dehumidifier. I think it would be good to look at ways of getting rid of some of that airborne moisture. I suppose packers and foam will achieve some measure of thermal break but the door needs good support and that is why I pack the underside with sand and cement. I have never had any problems with condensation on the frame so I can only thing that it is due to a high level of humidity in your house.
@@SkillBuilder thanks Roger. My first step was to buy a dehumidifier, which is set at 50%RH and given the room temp of 22° the dew point would be 11.1° The cill is often colder than that unfortunately. I will set it at 45% and see if that makes a difference
The string is a great tip. My fitted doors are out by 2mm across a 3 door 2 m (6 feet) wide. Causing a 2mm gap at the bottom of the bifold while the top seems flat and the door sticks. Where and how to do the adjustment properly please? Don’t want someone “bogging ” it just because I don’t know any different!!
You are right but the difference here is the 150mm step down from the door. The water can't collect and the dpc is lower in the wall. Nearly ten years later and zero problems of any kind.
That is an excellent tutorial video mate, well done. Do you have a video of the process of making the hole and adding in the lintel? What sort of lintel did you use? I'm looking at putting a five meter door in my house here in South Australia and just wondered what you did as the houses and situations are very similar. Is that house brick veneer too?
Hi Roger, I love your work : ) Very quick question for you or the readers here that I hope can be answered. I have a granite window sill that is the correct size for a set of patio doors I want to use in a home-office build. Would I be able to use this sill to sit the door frame on ? ......or should I not use it since it was designed for windows?
It will be fine provided it has a drip groove on the under side to stop water tracking back. Place a pice of damp proof course under it and lap that up behind to floor level to stop any water driving under the door.
@@SkillBuilder Thanks a million for the advise Roger. The Sills have a groove, so all good. PS, Your channel inspired me to get off my back-side & make a home-office, so thanks for your uploads in the channel, they are excellent and really helpful. I also love it when you & Robin work together on projects. Related to the roofing side of my project, here's a link to the the jig I'm going to make to get my boards/tiled up to roof level etc. ruclips.net/video/6erroPIjmrM/видео.html Safety precautions will be taken also : ) All the best from Ireland
Hi, I’ve enjoyed your instruction videos, but now I’m at a bit of a loss. I’ve had bifolding doors installed and they have named shut and won’t open, the hinges don’t have a Allen key connection on the hinges as they are just flat at h the he top and bottom, so I can’t adjust yhr height of the doors (they have dropped. The installer won’t reply to my messages??? Any advice would be a massive help Thanks again
How do people go about fixing bifold doors to the steels above? I worked on an extension a few weeks ago and had someone tell me they fixed straight through the steel, which cause all sorts of problems as they went straight through the damp, causing water to run down the cavity and through the fixing points on the header of the doors.
Tried using this as got stuck when me and my old man were fitting a Aluminium French door fitting the gaskets as could get the outer gasket in but not the inner so used the packers but to no avail. To solve the problem on the brand of door I was fitting it turns out that the internal gasket can be pressed into the beading as it has a channel on the inside edge so need to pack out , just press into the grove on the beading when out of the frame cut off just over as vid says but then just fit in no need for packers to gain space to fit the gasket. Not dissing you guys as always a great source of help but this method may be what you need to do or at least check when fitting gaskets when your next fitting a Bi fold or French door as it made life way easier , no spacers/packers or using the paddle to gain space.
+Zed Man Actually the opposite. The doors let in a lot of warm sunlight which warms the floor and the LOW E glass traps it nicely. I think building control are now realising the glass in sunny aspects can give net gains. The fact that the are no draughts is also a factor. The old doors and windows that were there before weren't so good.
Video just brilliant. thank you. I assume the blinds are part of the bi fold design. If bi folds are already fitted without blinds, are you able to recommend how to fit them and best brand to buy?
I am so sorry to point out, that your explanation about toe and healing, is opposite to what is in the manufacturer's guide shown in this video. You said 'bottom packer goes where the hinge is and then opposite on floating side'. But the diagram shows differently. I am only pointing this out, because I am at this stage myself fitting my own doors. You of course explained it correctly, the diagram is wrong. Regards Jez
I googled this guy in hope I could phone him to come fit my bifolding doors and I come to find out his also a TV presenter. Come to think of it I think I have seen him on TV.
Hi everyone. If you have a few minutes on a dull day take a look at our new Ask Skill Builder feature on skill-builder.uk ruclips.net/video/FbkQwB9fqXE/видео.html We want your questions and comments to help us make this a huge success.
+getstuk87 Quickslide doesn't have distribution in the U.SA. When you say the price is incredible, do you mean in a good way or too expensive? We tend to pay a lot more than you do in America. You have cheaper tools, vehicles, hotels, clothes, food the list goes on. I think it is because we are part of the E.U. They take out pants down and give us a Rogerring whenever they can. 20% tax.
+Keith McManus I assume you are joking here but just in case...... I am talking about an outward opening traffic door. Some people use that door as their main door out into the garden, or yard as the Americans call it, and if you have to put the garbage out in the bins and the snow it blocking your door you have a small problem to solve.
We find a lot of theses firms fitting there own bi folds don’t have a clue about the tray over the lintels! Fixing right through them! Oh and the renderers beating off the weep vents lol ffs
Pankaj There are thousands of perfectly competent DIYers who can follow instructions and complete a job like this and, dare I say, do a better job than many of the pros who do this kind of job. Duncan, who was helping me and did the brickwork, is a graphic designer who just likes doing a bit of DIY. . Please don't judge everyone by your standards .
I am a roofer that is Sydney Australia born and bred, I am really enjoying these vids from Roger, they are very informative. I am never going to install doors, but I do find these interesting. I came across Rogers / Skill Build vids looking at drills.
Keep up the good work .
+REVHE4D
Thanks Revhead. The way I see it is that all information is useful somewhere down the line. I pick up stuff I think I will never use and then one day I find it comes in handy.
Nice one Rodger, my dad and I are big fans and currently doing a self build extension. We turn to ur videos every week. Top bloke 👍🏻
How did your extension turn out? We are about to embark on our journey!
@@george4vIogging hey it’s going as well as can be expected considering the lockdown. If you’d like a nosey take a look at my Instagram account @carryongrowingrkid
@@george4vIogging sorry pressed send to soon. We’ve had a few hiccups. No roof tiles in the whole of England and waiting for steal beams to be fitted but we are definitely getting there now. My internal walls are coming down this week and I am ordering my cladding once I can decide on colour. Hope it goes well. We consult sky builder on everything 🤣 R Rodge has a video on it all. Enjoy and be proud of all that money you’ll save doing it yourself 😬 😬
Great tutorial!I really like the sub-frame concept.The stackable systems we typically install, require the head, sill and jambs to be installed separately.Really nice system.Thanks!
+T II
Yes that is a good thing about Quickslide. That subframe comes ready assembled. Where are you?
Really great video Roger, very helpful indeed 👍
Great advice Roger. Given me a few things to think about before I even start. Thanks
Excellent video. Ive got a set of these to fit so will be sharing this with my builder today. Thanks for posting
Just watch that threshold. Bring the damp proofing up the back of the fram and dam up the channel ends with silicone. The bottom channel drains through the weep holes.
Great video Roger.. I found it simple to follow and, as usual, picked up a few tips. Thanks for your efforts!
Brilliant video! Very professionally produced 👍Should have your own TV show 😎
Thanks, Dan the man and the doors are still working well with zero problems. I think all the stories you hear about trouble with bi-folds are due to them being thrown in.
Skill Builder Agreed! Like every rushed job. Glad to see others keeping the standards high 💪👍
Hello Roger. Really useful video. I am wanting doors just like that. Now i just need to convince my husband!!
who is in charge in your house? just tell him he will respect you for it.
Hey Rog! Decent install however the following might help out some diy'ers...
I always lay bifold cills on fresh sand/cement with packers around every 600 or hard stable points. Once the doors are glazed and the weight is on it can get all kinky with only mastic under it. Fitting the locking screws is best done once glazed as you'd be surprised how much they can drop as the screws are rarely the same guage as the holes.The main culprits are the roller hinges where the glazed doors should be lifted to the correct height and the locking screws installed at the bottom of the hole so they can't head south. With the gasket cut top and bottom first, pushing enough length past the vertical beads, then mitre the left and right gaskets adding 100mm and compressing it tight up from top to bottom using a glazing shovel. You may have to trim a little but it'll never gap on shrinkage..
Great explanation of toe and heeling btw! 👍 All the best..
Thanks Roger.
I have seen the guys put the whole thing on plastic packers and it is better than bedding on sand and cement as it will shrink but it still looks a little strange. My method was to get a perfect level bed and let that go off for a couple of days. The silicone beads compressed equally and the bottom track is perfectly level. I found that bit easy (basic building) put getting those frames to stay square is a little more tricky. I have another one to do in a few weeks so I will try and incorporate your tips.
Skill Builder
Hi! If you build the threshold brick course that flat and level then I'd love to fit doors for you! Most of the builders openings I fit into are garbage with the steel running out of level down on the side that the threshold brickwork runs up! I know the muck can shrink a tad but I seem to get straighter cills this way. If I only end up with enough room for silicone and packers I tend to start with only 2 fixings in the lock side so it's easier to move up or down and re check levels along as I glaze up. (3 and 5 part bifolds)
Squaring wise with my suppliers it always seems that one jamb is longer than the other so I never bother to be honest.. dead straight level cill, jambs upright on the level and just straight line the head through. As soon as the hinge side jamb is in the right place I stick a head fixing in it so it can't move. Using a tape measure to set the gap between leaf and head when glazing so any discrepancy is at the threshold and less obvious! I know we're only talking a couple of mms but it is nice to aim for perfect. Great explanation of the low threshold issue too btw, I have to explain that to every single customer and talk them out of room divider type thresholds.. Hope the upcoming one goes well, I'm renovating my house at the moment so am finding all your videos extremely helpful, thanks a load 👍
Very good series well presented and full of useful information.
Roger you and your team keep up the good work. You should have a show on really or home a natural presenter.
Thanks Michael
I used to do quite a lot of tele back in the day. The Terrace, Watchdog, Rogue Traders and a whole load of daytime t.v crap that I would rather forget. It came to an end and RUclips started up. I have a lot more control over content. Television would never allow you 15 minutes on fitting some doors, it is all fast moving, froth.
Nice one Roger cheers, great job.
Thank you! Cheers!
Love the windows and a well executed job.
Put a small gap of say 80mm between patio and door cill outside. Fill the gap with shingle so that any water drains away.Also looks good
Yet another informative video Roger Thx, keep em coming 👍🏼
Great video. Thanks for sharing Roger.
+arebrec Thank you. I wish it had more views.
Chất lượng và đẳng cấp. Wow. Wonderful! Life window. Good window. Professional!
Nice video... Do you have any videos on how to adjust a door that had dropped and the replacement of the locking mechanism ?? Thanks
11.30 very good tip : the diagonal brace/strut.
Just like a wooden door or gate, the diagonal that takes the weight and
keeps it square.
Best video I've seen. I have folding doors, but the one on the end which forms the first door to open has dropped so that it won't close without a really tough pulling action. Can I undo the hinges as you say and raise the door ??? Thanks,
Wasn't expecting ur leg to do that at 2:54 😉 Nice job btw
Great video, can I ask when you adjust the sliding hinge plate via the grub screws will this move the door height up or down? Or just the position of the hinge plate?
Excellent video. Lovely job.
+Tony Fare
Thank you Tony. It i nice to see it is getting views at last.
Roger, I know this is an old video now, so wondered if you'd encountered any issues since with cold bridging? My aluminium bi-folds were fitted with the cill directly on the outside course of engineering brick. Whenever it's cold outside, the inner cill is ice-cold and covered in condensation, despite being thermally broken laterally. I can only conclude that the fitting directly onto the brick course is the cause of the thermal bridge. I have seen many installations using packers below the cill, which would alleviate this
Hi Graham
The cill is acting as a dehumidifier. I think it would be good to look at ways of getting rid of some of that airborne moisture.
I suppose packers and foam will achieve some measure of thermal break but the door needs good support and that is why I pack the underside with sand and cement. I have never had any problems with condensation on the frame so I can only thing that it is due to a high level of humidity in your house.
@@SkillBuilder thanks Roger. My first step was to buy a dehumidifier, which is set at 50%RH and given the room temp of 22° the dew point would be 11.1° The cill is often colder than that unfortunately. I will set it at 45% and see if that makes a difference
The string is a great tip. My fitted doors are out by 2mm across a 3 door 2 m (6 feet) wide. Causing a 2mm gap at the bottom of the bifold while the top seems flat and the door sticks.
Where and how to do the adjustment properly please? Don’t want someone “bogging ” it just because I don’t know any different!!
Always start at the bottom when doing gasket 👍
thanks I didn't know that
Very well presented.
Another very informative video 👍
Love the videos but you didn't put any dpc under the frame as you mentioned in your other video.
You are right but the difference here is the 150mm step down from the door. The water can't collect and the dpc is lower in the wall. Nearly ten years later and zero problems of any kind.
@@SkillBuilder fair enough . I am looking to do this at the moment and the videos are a great help.
job well done. thanks for the tips
That is an excellent tutorial video mate, well done. Do you have a video of the process of making the hole and adding in the lintel? What sort of lintel did you use? I'm looking at putting a five meter door in my house here in South Australia and just wondered what you did as the houses and situations are very similar. Is that house brick veneer too?
So you don't have to fix baserail of frame to the cill other than the sealant at the back?
Yes you can see where I have screwed in the cill and the frame locates onto that with the sealant. Some screw through the frame
Hi Roger, I love your work : )
Very quick question for you or the readers here that I hope can be answered.
I have a granite window sill that is the correct size for a set of patio doors I want to use in a home-office build.
Would I be able to use this sill to sit the door frame on ? ......or should I not use it since it was designed for windows?
It will be fine provided it has a drip groove on the under side to stop water tracking back. Place a pice of damp proof course under it and lap that up behind to floor level to stop any water driving under the door.
@@SkillBuilder Thanks a million for the advise Roger. The Sills have a groove, so all good.
PS, Your channel inspired me to get off my back-side & make a home-office, so thanks for your uploads in the channel, they are excellent and really helpful.
I also love it when you & Robin work together on projects. Related to the roofing side of my project, here's a link to the the jig I'm going to make to get my boards/tiled up to roof level etc.
ruclips.net/video/6erroPIjmrM/видео.html
Safety precautions will be taken also : )
All the best from Ireland
Very good door
Hi, I’ve enjoyed your instruction videos, but now I’m at a bit of a loss. I’ve had bifolding doors installed and they have named shut and won’t open, the hinges don’t have a Allen key connection on the hinges as they are just flat at h the he top and bottom, so I can’t adjust yhr height of the doors (they have dropped. The installer won’t reply to my messages??? Any advice would be a massive help
Thanks again
How do people go about fixing bifold doors to the steels above? I worked on an extension a few weeks ago and had someone tell me they fixed straight through the steel, which cause all sorts of problems as they went straight through the damp, causing water to run down the cavity and through the fixing points on the header of the doors.
It is common to fix through the head into the steels. If the door opening is wide you won't hold it without a top fixing.
Tried using this as got stuck when me and my old man were fitting a Aluminium French door fitting the gaskets as could get the outer gasket in but not the inner so used the packers but to no avail. To solve the problem on the brand of door I was fitting it turns out that the internal gasket can be pressed into the beading as it has a channel on the inside edge so need to pack out , just press into the grove on the beading when out of the frame cut off just over as vid says but then just fit in no need for packers to gain space to fit the gasket. Not dissing you guys as always a great source of help but this method may be what you need to do or at least check when fitting gaskets when your next fitting a Bi fold or French door as it made life way easier , no spacers/packers or using the paddle to gain space.
Good tip thanks.
Would I need a building warrant to put in these doors?
Well done Roger! What work shoe are you wearing in this vid? Are they steel toe?
Crockett and Jones
Another top vid roger .love the string trick .any idea of cost please
Thank you, invaluable
I In Egypt work to make a window same the professional to not allow cross air or water or noise 💪💪💪💪💪
Nice tips Roger. Do you find with all that glass rooms are colder with these?
+Zed Man Actually the opposite. The doors let in a lot of warm sunlight which warms the floor and the LOW E glass traps it nicely. I think building control are now realising the glass in sunny aspects can give net gains. The fact that the are no draughts is also a factor. The old doors and windows that were there before weren't so good.
What do you do if the damp proof is just below the original door bottom?
That is fine. Just lay it under the door and bring it up the back of the cill.
If you're raising the outside floor area won't you then compromise the existing DPC, no?
Great Video...........Does anyone else think Roger looks like Colonel Stuart from Die Hard 2?? :o)
Are the profiles of these doors MB 86 from Alu prof ?
Sir Roger Bisby of Surrey, Master Builder.
Video just brilliant. thank you. I assume the blinds are part of the bi fold design. If bi folds are already fitted without blinds, are you able to recommend how to fit them and best brand to buy?
they are called internal blinds,you can order them from any glazing company
Morley Blinds in Leeds are market leaders. You order the sealed units with the blinds built in
I am so sorry to point out, that your explanation about toe and healing, is opposite to what is in the manufacturer's guide shown in this video. You said 'bottom packer goes where the hinge is and then opposite on floating side'. But the diagram shows differently. I am only pointing this out, because I am at this stage myself fitting my own doors. You of course explained it correctly, the diagram is wrong. Regards Jez
Thanks Jez We will look at it more carefully.
Great video. I would like to order a 4m bifold door from QuickSlide similair to this. Are you able to share the RAL colour of this door? Thanks!
I can't find it easily but Quickslide have it because it is their most popular colour. Contact them and they will help you for sure.
I found it RAL 9007
Many thanks! Perfect... Will be ordering mine now :)
Let us know how the installation goes.
thanks
Like Roger, subscribed 👍
wow you are definitely no cowboy. top class
Thanks for those kind words. Actually it is snowing here at the moment and the doors seem to be keeping the heat in and the cold draught out.
I googled this guy in hope I could phone him to come fit my bifolding doors and I come to find out his also a TV presenter. Come to think of it I think I have seen him on TV.
Do you know how long the blinds are Guaranteed for please?
+Flibbertigibbet
Hi Flibbergibbet. The doors are 10 years. The blinds are 5 years. Check out the guarantee link at the bottom of Quickslide's website
good video thanks.
Thank you Harris
good videos but very much doubt thats the first time you have fitter all these things in your videos
Hi everyone. If you have a few minutes on a dull day take a look at our new Ask Skill Builder feature on skill-builder.uk
ruclips.net/video/FbkQwB9fqXE/видео.html
We want your questions and comments to help us make this a huge success.
Great vid. Weird how the instructions from this company show improper position of toe and heel @ 11:42
Are these available in the USA (Chicago area) ?
+Ana Fisniku
I don't think Quickslide export to the USA but I will find out if they have an American partner
+Skill Builder Did you find out? Another interested buyer from USA
+Skill Builder also I just priced it out for myself and it was $3,100 USD, that is incredible for the size I want.
+getstuk87
Quickslide doesn't have distribution in the U.SA. When you say the price is incredible, do you mean in a good way or too expensive?
We tend to pay a lot more than you do in America.
You have cheaper tools, vehicles, hotels, clothes, food the list goes on.
I think it is because we are part of the E.U. They take out pants down and give us a Rogerring whenever they can. 20% tax.
+Skill Builder no, it's an incredibly good value at 3100, the ones I looked at were closer to $8k around the same size!
That seemed easy enough.
Where are you based roger?
+passionwagon2
Surrey
Austr8Accent strong. However he looks as though he knows what bed xoing🤗
I wish you were my dad, Roger. ;)
I might be, get a DNA sample over to me.
@@SkillBuilder 23 and Me? lol. Love your work, Roger, keep up the amazing channel. You're a true salt of the earth pro.
pause at 13:27
how much would that cost ?
+lesmoor kelly
If you go on the Quickslide site and type in your measurements you get an instant quote. Very cheap at the moment
Why would you want to open the doors when its snowing?
+Keith McManus
I assume you are joking here but just in case...... I am talking about an outward opening traffic door. Some people use that door as their main door out into the garden, or yard as the Americans call it, and if you have to put the garbage out in the bins and the snow it blocking your door you have a small problem to solve.
We find a lot of theses firms fitting there own bi folds don’t have a clue about the tray over the lintels! Fixing right through them! Oh and the renderers beating off the weep vents lol ffs
You are so right. I made the mistake of getting some guys in to fit some bi-folds recently just because I was busy.
please come do my install
You shouldn't fit any aluminium products though the thermal break
I used the holes already made. I like to have brackets running back into the internal skin but the fitters told me they don't work
@@SkillBuilder that's fair enough I always recommend directly fixing through the aluminium especially on doors patios and bifolds 👍👍
nice video im pakistani All video share me
5
😂😂😂😂 es lo mas facil para instalar
Sod that mate, buy the bi-folds already made up, save you hours, fitters only get £50 a door lol 😂
scary eyes
trade only? You need to say in your ad. So not wasting my time .
Pankaj There are thousands of perfectly competent DIYers who can follow instructions and complete a job like this and, dare I say, do a better job than many of the pros who do this kind of job. Duncan, who was helping me and did the brickwork, is a graphic designer who just likes doing a bit of DIY. .
Please don't judge everyone by your standards .
@@SkillBuilder quick slide folding doors rang them trade only they said .😭
But that wasn't helpful.
I think maybe you are hard to please.