@@theclan4adventures if you have friends that are into the class and everything, i highly recommend it, if not its not as fun when your by yourself. Its all personal preferences on what your expectations are. That car has been converted back to a prosc10 and now is being raced as my oval b-mod car. But I did purchase a dr10 kit, I just never built it yet because the 13.5 class around here is pretty bad.
@@ChrisPatrickRC thanks for the response brother.. I’m traveling the country with my three sons ages 5-9-15 so I was thinking I might build some 13.5 cars for them to run at local events where we are staying .. you know just something else to spend time and money on .. just researching what to get a rtr.. a roller and just use existing electrical equipment they have or build something from parts.. and spend even more money lol
@@theclan4adventures its what I love to do, which is helping people , the stock dr10 is not bad just tires are pretty bad , the 13.5 are pretty quick though. I think there down to about 3 seconds in 132ft
Nice project Chris and very informative video. I knew nothing about the drag racing class. I would assume you would have to run at least 3° of toe in on the rear to keep the car in a straight line. Im old fashioned, i would build my wheelie bar out of brass tubing soldered together with silver solder, super strong like weld and tubing is also very lightweight. Thats how guys used to make roll cages and chassis for clodbusters in the 90's.
would end up being to heavy, the solder joints would be the issue. trust me, the carbon fiber, or g10 , or aluminum options out there are alot stronger and lighter, just not cheap. a good set of bars is like 75 bucks.
I'm trying to find the good info on rear toe in or out for my sc10t and sc5m wide arms on both: the m5 has all kinds of adjustment not so much on the sc10t with your wealth of research I was hoping you could help. I have been rc racing all kinds since early 80,s and real cars too. love your you tubes.
@@timharper8004 look into b6 c and d blocks and pills , I believe they would work or you could go with the b5 series front and rear blocks that have correct toe you want. But it try to upgrade to modern b6 and use the pill system.
Depends on your area, there is a huge scene in Florida for the 13.5 class, but up where I am in Ohio it died off pretty quick. Everyone wants to go faster and faster which is why its pretty much the open class anymore.
@@ChrisPatrickRC I’m in Florida. I’ve only been to one race. It’s going to be hard to be competitive lol. The dr10 is geared for a 3s battery and still only runs 3.3 on a 3s (which is an illegal battery in most places apparently) it runs consistently 4 flat with my 5000 ma 2s. Meanwhile, everyone else is running 1.9 lol.
@@codyprice0295 are you talking about the stock esc and stock motor and your running 3.3 and 4's? and people are running 1.9's , because the people running 1.9's that i know of are running a high end motor around a 4.5t with a good esc with alot of boost and turbo settings to draw the most top speed.
@@ChrisPatrickRC yes. Bone stock car. I’m still learning as I go. I’d like to see it get a little bit better for classes. Buying the car and then having to jump to heads up first off with no knowledge is a bit challenging. Not to mention the wallet lol. I mean, you could just buy one already modified. That takes the fun out.
@@codyprice0295 i agree with you, which is what drew me to the 13.5 class, very clear rules and doenst break the bank... As for your box stock setup, turn gyro off that will help, replace the OEM tires with a set of good slicks like rawspeed , gearing change should help like you already said. and have fun! thats what its about. but the stock electronics are pretty limited for speed compared to the others that are out there. so the 1.9s cars your refeering too are custom built chassis with a 250$ esc and a pro tuned motor, everything is well over 1k invested.
Couldn't you run a slash width body. I run the bandit suspension on my slash builds but also built a car for a friend using a slash specific body, I think it was the octane
i would think so, because its all SCT based bodies, so yes, i would like to think it would fit, but the issue you might run into would be clearance for body mounts and such.
At the tire part. So kind of comparing small tire versus large tire drag cars. Small tire equals less rotational mass which means faster start up. Big tire equals slower start up but higher top end.
@@michaelchristensen6884 exactly but I noticed gearing was the issue so I ended up having to run larger tires simply for the top end. As for gluing the bands no. They are not glued inside the tire.
I thought 13.5 class is not allowed to run wheelie bars?
They don't, and the bars were a prototype I designed and had 3d printed before the class because a class. So there not on the rig.
@@ChrisPatrickRC looked awesome too bad they are not allowed. I was thinking of getting into these but I’m still on the fence
@@theclan4adventures if you have friends that are into the class and everything, i highly recommend it, if not its not as fun when your by yourself. Its all personal preferences on what your expectations are.
That car has been converted back to a prosc10 and now is being raced as my oval b-mod car. But I did purchase a dr10 kit, I just never built it yet because the 13.5 class around here is pretty bad.
@@ChrisPatrickRC thanks for the response brother.. I’m traveling the country with my three sons ages 5-9-15 so I was thinking I might build some 13.5 cars for them to run at local events where we are staying .. you know just something else to spend time and money on .. just researching what to get a rtr.. a roller and just use existing electrical equipment they have or build something from parts.. and spend even more money lol
@@theclan4adventures its what I love to do, which is helping people , the stock dr10 is not bad just tires are pretty bad , the 13.5 are pretty quick though. I think there down to about 3 seconds in 132ft
Nice project Chris and very informative video. I knew nothing about the drag racing class. I would assume you would have to run at least 3° of toe in on the rear to keep the car in a straight line. Im old fashioned, i would build my wheelie bar out of brass tubing soldered together with silver solder, super strong like weld and tubing is also very lightweight. Thats how guys used to make roll cages and chassis for clodbusters in the 90's.
would end up being to heavy, the solder joints would be the issue. trust me, the carbon fiber, or g10 , or aluminum options out there are alot stronger and lighter, just not cheap. a good set of bars is like 75 bucks.
I'm trying to find the good info on rear toe in or out for my sc10t and sc5m wide arms on both: the m5 has all kinds of adjustment not so much on the sc10t with your wealth of research I was hoping you could help. I have been rc racing all kinds since early 80,s and real cars too. love your you tubes.
@@timharper8004 look into b6 c and d blocks and pills , I believe they would work or you could go with the b5 series front and rear blocks that have correct toe you want. But it try to upgrade to modern b6 and use the pill system.
But ill check into it tomorrow and let you know for sure
@@ChrisPatrickRC thanks
Ok. Are there actually classes for these things? What’s going on with this. Seems like it’s all just heads up grudge style with very few rules.
Depends on your area, there is a huge scene in Florida for the 13.5 class, but up where I am in Ohio it died off pretty quick. Everyone wants to go faster and faster which is why its pretty much the open class anymore.
@@ChrisPatrickRC I’m in Florida. I’ve only been to one race. It’s going to be hard to be competitive lol. The dr10 is geared for a 3s battery and still only runs 3.3 on a 3s (which is an illegal battery in most places apparently) it runs consistently 4 flat with my 5000 ma 2s. Meanwhile, everyone else is running 1.9 lol.
@@codyprice0295 are you talking about the stock esc and stock motor and your running 3.3 and 4's?
and people are running 1.9's , because the people running 1.9's that i know of are running a high end motor around a 4.5t with a good esc with alot of boost and turbo settings to draw the most top speed.
@@ChrisPatrickRC yes. Bone stock car. I’m still learning as I go. I’d like to see it get a little bit better for classes. Buying the car and then having to jump to heads up first off with no knowledge is a bit challenging. Not to mention the wallet lol. I mean, you could just buy one already modified. That takes the fun out.
@@codyprice0295 i agree with you, which is what drew me to the 13.5 class, very clear rules and doenst break the bank...
As for your box stock setup, turn gyro off that will help, replace the OEM tires with a set of good slicks like rawspeed , gearing change should help like you already said. and have fun! thats what its about. but the stock electronics are pretty limited for speed compared to the others that are out there. so the 1.9s cars your refeering too are custom built chassis with a 250$ esc and a pro tuned motor, everything is well over 1k invested.
Couldn't you run a slash width body. I run the bandit suspension on my slash builds but also built a car for a friend using a slash specific body, I think it was the octane
Asking because I have a friend with a pro sc10, never tried to stuff one under a octane body.
i would think so, because its all SCT based bodies, so yes, i would like to think it would fit, but the issue you might run into would be clearance for body mounts and such.
What about Team Xray/Hudy differential fluids?
Diff fluid is pretty much all the same. Just a matter of what thickness you want.
Nob here 13.5t class means ?
Limited to a 13.5 turn motor. One class is a "spec" class and one is unlimited.
Thanks for this video, as I am looking at getting into this! Your research as saved me a bunch! Thank you.
If you have questions just ask away!
@@ChrisPatrickRC still watching it as I am washing the dishes and walking the dogs
At the tire part. So kind of comparing small tire versus large tire drag cars. Small tire equals less rotational mass which means faster start up. Big tire equals slower start up but higher top end.
Do you glue the band inside the tire?
@@michaelchristensen6884 exactly but I noticed gearing was the issue so I ended up having to run larger tires simply for the top end. As for gluing the bands no. They are not glued inside the tire.