Thank you so much! You just saved me a lot of headache and stress. One trip to the auto store, got socket, got part. About 30 mins start to finish and fingers crossed we are back up and running, short test drive complete but need more miles to be comfortable things are resolved permanently. My symptoms on my 2003 Sprinter 3500 were -- driving along at about 50 or so, engine dies completely, (was able to get off the road) Accelerator Skid Control (ASR) light came on the dash with the battery light. Engine would crank fine but wouldn't start. Kept trying to start and then after 20 minutes or so it started fine. Drive about 1.5 miles and same scenario would occur. Took me about 4 cycles of this and about 3 hours to get 6 or 7 miles home. :-(
Looks like you fixed the problem! Yaayy!.. i had the no start happen too and took it to two Sprinter shops..one was a dealer.. the dealer said i needed $4000 worth of parts after $500 of diagnostics the other shop $3500 worth of parts and again about $500 for diagnostic.. then my little town mechanic found that the Crankshaft sensor readings were off.. so that may be my problem .. a $50 part.. and 5 minutes to replace.. that just goes to show how the Sprinter repair places want to make huge amounts of money off of people who don't do diligent research on these older sprinters..
Just replaced the crankshaft sensor on a mercedes gl350. seems to have fixed the jerking. best to have a box end torx 8mm or an equivalent spline box end. hard to get a socket right on the head of bolt. there is a metal shield over it, also 8mm bolt
Best from underneath. TAke the plastic shield from below the transmission pan off, using 8mm wrench. Look above the starter and the LH fwd drive shaft and you'll see the plug on the driver side where the engine meets the transmission. It's at the 10 oclock position, just like on the Sprinter. I have a GL350,2013. crankshaft position sensor.
My torx screw came out but I CANNOT get that sensor out!! Its a bit rusty...I tried Wd40, even pliers...won't budge. I tapped on it a little too... & nothing! ANY TIPS???
Unfortunately I've read it can be a nightmare... Maybe some kind of penetrating oil and letting it sit for a while? Or maybe penetrating oil + letting the van idle to try to get it nice and warm and then pull it out? Check around Sprinter-source. If you break the sensor people say you have to pull the trans to get the clearance to get it out, but if you pull out the cup holder there's a spot weld in the floor you can grind and peel back and access it straight on to remove if it breaks (worst case)
I think I may have this problem in my van too. Won’t start when it’s running hot but after it cools down for 15-20 min it starts right back up. Changed the starter and it’s still happening. I have an 04 with 262k. Thoughts?
Your best bet is to spend some cash and get a code reader that can read Mercedes codes. I think you can get one for under $100 nowadays (3 yrs ago the cheapest was $250-300). The codes will likely show you or you can check the live data. Your experience tells me highly likely you need to replace either the crankshaft sensor or the camshaft sensor. Either one can cause this start issue. Have you ever had it just die on you suddenly at idle or stop? If so, that's more likely the crankshaft sensor. The camshaft sensor will only cause issues starting, whereas the crankshaft sensor malfunctioning can actually cause the engine to suddenly die
So the residue on the old sensor - no worries/concerns about what remains in the spot where the sensor was extracted from? I just got ahold of a 2005 3500 so I'm try to get myself edu-ma-cated on all the small tasks these vans sometimes require :)
Not a bad idea. Those sensors look pretty inexpensive so I expect I'll source one to keep on hand, "in case". I found your video from searching on the topic due to seeing a post on the big T1N group on Facebook of someone stuck on the side of the road due to a failed crank sensor :/
@@wanderingzythophile9083 yeah I would recommend buying the "t1n spare parts kit" from million mile sprinter. It has this sensor included as well as some other parts that have been known to go out & leave you with problems on the side of the road.
It's in such an odd position you can't really do much to clean out the inside. If you have a wire brush or something and a good vacuum attachment to try to vacuum it up after, I'd say go for it. If not just be sure to lube the new one so it doesn't get stuck if it ever needs to be removed again. Heard horror stories of em when stuck - having to resort to cutting a hole under the interior dash to get good access to it (or you can get access the "proper way" -- by pulling the transmission) And I'd recommend the 140 kit, that's exactly what I got. He has a slight markup over EuroParts-SD but very small (usually less than $1-2 per part?) so it made sense for me to support MMS & his family. You definitely want OEM sensors the aftermarket sensors are known to be garbage btw. Sprinter-source is a great resource btw 👍
I’d say you got very lucky. My sensor was bonded in there so badly that I could t get it out. I’ve pulled the intake manifold to get more room from the top and tried drilling it out but it’s not an easy drill. Torch is probably next tool. Only other alternative is to pull the transmission and knock it free from the inside. Way too much work for a $25 sensor
Hitting it with a torch will melt the plastic. This happens sometimes. You can remove your console and break a spot weld, bend up the seam of the floor and get direct access to it. There's a thread on sprinter-source.
@@projectvagrant8197 right now I don’t have a torch that will work upside down :/ but I’ve managed to drill through part of it. Hoping to get an ez out in or maybe a bolt and a slide hammer.
It took me a few tries to grab it right. Its been so long since I've done it but I want to say I had to grab and squeeze it higher at the top than I expected
All that diligence to ensure the camera points at the sensor and bolt, only to put the connector in front of the lens to block the view of the entire procedure.
Yes it is. Directly from my Mercedes DTC code list: "P2045-Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Lost Signal P2045-Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Signal Plausibility"
I believe any error code with a definition stating issues with the crankshaft sensor could mean the issue is the crankshaft sensor..? According to my Mercedes specific DTC code list - P0335 is "Crank Pos Sensor Circuit". And I provided the Mercedes Sprinter definition for p2045 above, which also states an issue with the crankshaft sensor circuit but with more detail. Not sure why you would come and try to argue that it was not an error/issue related to the sensor. Spoiler: after replacing the sensor, the van no longer died at idle or stop signs. We've put 20k miles on the van since.
Thanks so much for posting! Your video information saves us owners so much money for expensive repair shops.
Thanks 🙏🏻
God bless🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thank you so much! You just saved me a lot of headache and stress. One trip to the auto store, got socket, got part. About 30 mins start to finish and fingers crossed we are back up and running, short test drive complete but need more miles to be comfortable things are resolved permanently.
My symptoms on my 2003 Sprinter 3500 were -- driving along at about 50 or so, engine dies completely, (was able to get off the road) Accelerator Skid Control (ASR) light came on the dash with the battery light. Engine would crank fine but wouldn't start. Kept trying to start and then after 20 minutes or so it started fine. Drive about 1.5 miles and same scenario would occur. Took me about 4 cycles of this and about 3 hours to get 6 or 7 miles home. :-(
You're welcome - got my fingers crossed for ya!
@@projectvagrant8197 It worked! Was exactly the problem.
You made my life easier with your video. Thank you
I'm glad I could help! You're welcome :)
Thanks for this video! Showed me the correct position to play to tackle this job. Second time you've helped me! Cheers, bro!
You're welcome man! So glad to hear we helped. Engine air filter, cabin air filter & EGR valve cleaning video coming soon hahaha 👍
Looks like you fixed the problem! Yaayy!.. i had the no start happen too and took it to two Sprinter shops..one was a dealer.. the dealer said i needed $4000 worth of parts after $500 of diagnostics the other shop $3500 worth of parts and again about $500 for diagnostic.. then my little town mechanic found that the Crankshaft sensor readings were off.. so that may be my problem .. a $50 part.. and 5 minutes to replace.. that just goes to show how the Sprinter repair places want to make huge amounts of money off of people who don't do diligent research on these older sprinters..
Exactly! I just saw this comment but unfortunately there's the "Mercedes" tax, usually because people just throw parts instead of researching
nice video and good job replacing the crankshaft sensor. hope you solve the leak problems.
Thank you! :)
Great video, super helpful unlike several others.
Thanks Bob! Glad to help :)
Just replaced the crankshaft sensor on a mercedes gl350. seems to have fixed the jerking. best to have a box end torx 8mm or an equivalent spline box end. hard to get a socket right on the head of bolt. there is a metal shield over it, also 8mm bolt
Best from underneath. TAke the plastic shield from below the transmission pan off, using 8mm wrench. Look above the starter and the LH fwd drive shaft and you'll see the plug on the driver side where the engine meets the transmission. It's at the 10 oclock position, just like on the Sprinter. I have a GL350,2013. crankshaft position sensor.
Really well done video tutorial - thank you for posting!
You're very welcome! 😊 Thank you for watching
Useful video. When you worked here, you don't have to leave the connector in the field of vision.
I know! It was an accident, I couldn't see it from where I was laying so I didn't realize the connector was completely in the way of the camera :(
wow yours came out so easy. thanks for posting this
Yeah I've seen some horror stories that result in pulling the trans...seriously couldn't imagine going through that for this sensor lol.
My torx screw came out but I CANNOT get that sensor out!! Its a bit rusty...I tried Wd40, even pliers...won't budge. I tapped on it a little too... & nothing! ANY TIPS???
Unfortunately I've read it can be a nightmare... Maybe some kind of penetrating oil and letting it sit for a while? Or maybe penetrating oil + letting the van idle to try to get it nice and warm and then pull it out? Check around Sprinter-source. If you break the sensor people say you have to pull the trans to get the clearance to get it out, but if you pull out the cup holder there's a spot weld in the floor you can grind and peel back and access it straight on to remove if it breaks (worst case)
I think I may have this problem in my van too. Won’t start when it’s running hot but after it cools down for 15-20 min it starts right back up. Changed the starter and it’s still happening. I have an 04 with 262k. Thoughts?
Your best bet is to spend some cash and get a code reader that can read Mercedes codes. I think you can get one for under $100 nowadays (3 yrs ago the cheapest was $250-300).
The codes will likely show you or you can check the live data. Your experience tells me highly likely you need to replace either the crankshaft sensor or the camshaft sensor. Either one can cause this start issue. Have you ever had it just die on you suddenly at idle or stop? If so, that's more likely the crankshaft sensor. The camshaft sensor will only cause issues starting, whereas the crankshaft sensor malfunctioning can actually cause the engine to suddenly die
Super easy. Just make sure the wire harness fully seats.
I did mine and drove to work and forgot tools. Long story short, had to Uber home
So the residue on the old sensor - no worries/concerns about what remains in the spot where the sensor was extracted from?
I just got ahold of a 2005 3500 so I'm try to get myself edu-ma-cated on all the small tasks these vans sometimes require :)
I did try to clean it out some. I'd recommend putting some antiseize over the new sensor before inserting
Not a bad idea. Those sensors look pretty inexpensive so I expect I'll source one to keep on hand, "in case". I found your video from searching on the topic due to seeing a post on the big T1N group on Facebook of someone stuck on the side of the road due to a failed crank sensor :/
@@wanderingzythophile9083 yeah I would recommend buying the "t1n spare parts kit" from million mile sprinter. It has this sensor included as well as some other parts that have been known to go out & leave you with problems on the side of the road.
@@projectvagrant8197 Ah yeah, I'm considering his "140" kit.
It's in such an odd position you can't really do much to clean out the inside. If you have a wire brush or something and a good vacuum attachment to try to vacuum it up after, I'd say go for it. If not just be sure to lube the new one so it doesn't get stuck if it ever needs to be removed again. Heard horror stories of em when stuck - having to resort to cutting a hole under the interior dash to get good access to it (or you can get access the "proper way" -- by pulling the transmission)
And I'd recommend the 140 kit, that's exactly what I got. He has a slight markup over EuroParts-SD but very small (usually less than $1-2 per part?) so it made sense for me to support MMS & his family. You definitely want OEM sensors the aftermarket sensors are known to be garbage btw. Sprinter-source is a great resource btw 👍
I’d say you got very lucky. My sensor was bonded in there so badly that I could t get it out. I’ve pulled the intake manifold to get more room from the top and tried drilling it out but it’s not an easy drill. Torch is probably next tool. Only other alternative is to pull the transmission and knock it free from the inside. Way too much work for a $25 sensor
Hitting it with a torch will melt the plastic. This happens sometimes. You can remove your console and break a spot weld, bend up the seam of the floor and get direct access to it. There's a thread on sprinter-source.
@@projectvagrant8197 right now I don’t have a torch that will work upside down :/ but I’ve managed to drill through part of it. Hoping to get an ez out in or maybe a bolt and a slide hammer.
@@Mongoswede sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/70135/
i’m having issues removing the connector
It took me a few tries to grab it right. Its been so long since I've done it but I want to say I had to grab and squeeze it higher at the top than I expected
All that diligence to ensure the camera points at the sensor and bolt, only to put the connector in front of the lens to block the view of the entire procedure.
Tell me about it. 🤦♂️
Ok, what's code P2045? That's not a crank sensor
Yes it is. Directly from my Mercedes DTC code list:
"P2045-Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Lost Signal
P2045-Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Signal Plausibility"
@@projectvagrant8197 PO335 should be the crank sensor error #. Or is this typical Mercedes with confusion. What error codes did you get, just one?
I believe any error code with a definition stating issues with the crankshaft sensor could mean the issue is the crankshaft sensor..? According to my Mercedes specific DTC code list - P0335 is "Crank Pos Sensor Circuit". And I provided the Mercedes Sprinter definition for p2045 above, which also states an issue with the crankshaft sensor circuit but with more detail. Not sure why you would come and try to argue that it was not an error/issue related to the sensor. Spoiler: after replacing the sensor, the van no longer died at idle or stop signs. We've put 20k miles on the van since.
If you had only positioned that plug out of the way....twice as nice for someone hoping to learn here.
I know I couldn't see to tell it was in the way :( fortunately it's pretty straight forward
crankshaft or camshaft? get to the point