I recently have purchased this model and have found it much better to approach the larger brush from the left, swinging to the right. This will have the saw pull it through the larger brush in seconds with less strain on the engine. thanks for the video... it helped me decide to purchase.... it's a great machine!
I just finished building this unit today. Bought a new power head for a good price, then pieced the whole unit together. I sold my SRM 340 to my brother a few years ago so he could clear around his hunting area better. I kind of missed it as it was a smooth and powerful brush cutter. Nice to step up to the biggest unit Echo makes in the 410u. Look forward to trying it out. Love my Echo tools!
HornedLizardMan.....You're The Best.....A great little educational video.....Inspiring to know about the Echo Brush Cutter....but more inspiring to learn about your attitude towards Wildlife and their special needs to survive.....Mother Earth Thanks You....!!!
So I have had this tool for several years now and have been VERY pleased with how it performs! I have been having nothing but problems from my Poulan chainsaw and those problems have rendered that tool useless in the field at times until I can get back and work on it. This Echo clearing saw has NEVER let me down. It cranks easily and runs longer than my body can hold up! Now if only I could get a chainsaw as reliable as my clearing saw! Any advice out there for a highly dependable chainsaw??
TheHornedlizardman1 there are a few questions to ask about what chainsaw to buy 1. What size is the wood you will be cutting ? 2. How often will you use the saw 3. Weight ? A big saw is no fun for small trees why carry extra weight 4. Power, you can get a 70cc saw to do the same work as a 36cc saw but it will do it much faster and with less effort and you will be able to do bigger wood / trees as well 5. Budget how much do you want to spend ? I'm a trainee forester and arborist and have a variety of saws for different jobs however this may not be practical for someone who isn't doing tree work every day. Think about what you will be doing, something mid range professional will be better than a high end homeowner saw take into account Vibration levels, weight, power, ease of use, ease of maintenance. Something for bars upto 18" a Husqvarna 550xp, Stihl ms261c-m or a dolmar ps-5105 would be plenty up to 18" bar and you could do double that with advanced felling techniques of course it would take longer. For 15" up to 28" bars go for something like a dolmar 7910, Husqvarna 372xp 572xp 576xp or a Stihl ms441, ms462 would work nicely Anything bigger than 28" upto 36" go for something like a Stihl ms661, Husqvarna 390xp, 395xp or a dolmar 9010 And the big guns at 36" to 84" would be the Stihl ms880 or a Husqvarna 3120 those saws are over 100cc and not light or cheap of course other brands like Jonsered are great saws to but they are being taken over by Redmax
I have used this same brush cutter for years. I would strongly recommend that you try adjusting the left handle so that it rests on or near your left hip. If the handles are the same as mine, it is a much more stable setup. I have used brush cutters over 30 years and now have the one featured here. This arrangement will give you more strength to move brush out of the way and better control especially when back cutting.
TheHornedlizardman1 Yes. Give it a chance. You should have your hand clasped to the handle with the butt of your hand resting on your hip. Swing at the waist. You will have much better control. Good luck.
Alan Anz, I will use both approaches, but prefer to cut from right to left as I find I can control the cut more easily than from left to right where the blade pulls into the cut. This machine and my Stihl chainsaw are true workhorses in my brush cutting arsenal!
I got two at one time and I don't like them. In fact, I still have one in the original package unused. The chain would dull very quickly soon would be pushing out only sawdust. What works far better are the new carbide tipped brush cutter blades.
+David Smith ... I have come around to your opinion. I have now tried the chainsaw-type blades and the carbide tipped blades and prefer the latter. I'm now using 10" carbide tipped blades and, when sharp, really make quick work of small trees.
TheHornedlizardman1 Great. Sounds like you have nice setup. I used 7 1/4" circular saw carbide blades for several years with a special washer I had made. They're not recommended for that high of an RPM but, I never had a problem. I like the smaller blade for maneuverability and cutting power but the bigger blades work well too.
ECHO! THE SRM-410U. Great video
I recently have purchased this model and have found it much better to approach the larger brush from the left, swinging to the right. This will have the saw pull it through the larger brush in seconds with less strain on the engine. thanks for the video... it helped me decide to purchase.... it's a great machine!
I just finished building this unit today. Bought a new power head for a good price, then pieced the whole unit together. I sold my SRM 340 to my brother a few years ago so he could clear around his hunting area better. I kind of missed it as it was a smooth and powerful brush cutter. Nice to step up to the biggest unit Echo makes in the 410u. Look forward to trying it out. Love my Echo tools!
David Hallman how do you like it?
HornedLizardMan.....You're The Best.....A great little educational video.....Inspiring to know about the Echo Brush Cutter....but more inspiring to learn about your attitude towards Wildlife and their special needs to survive.....Mother Earth Thanks You....!!!
Thanks for posting. Looks like a tool worth having.
Is it awkward to cut with it vertically to cut limbs hanging into trails, like 4-6 feet high?
So I have had this tool for several years now and have been VERY pleased with how it performs! I have been having nothing but problems from my Poulan chainsaw and those problems have rendered that tool useless in the field at times until I can get back and work on it. This Echo clearing saw has NEVER let me down. It cranks easily and runs longer than my body can hold up! Now if only I could get a chainsaw as reliable as my clearing saw! Any advice out there for a highly dependable chainsaw??
TheHornedlizardman1 there are a few questions to ask about what chainsaw to buy
1. What size is the wood you will be cutting ?
2. How often will you use the saw
3. Weight ? A big saw is no fun for small trees why carry extra weight
4. Power, you can get a 70cc saw to do the same work as a 36cc saw but it will do it much faster and with less effort and you will be able to do bigger wood / trees as well
5. Budget how much do you want to spend ?
I'm a trainee forester and arborist and have a variety of saws for different jobs however this may not be practical for someone who isn't doing tree work every day. Think about what you will be doing, something mid range professional will be better than a high end homeowner saw take into account Vibration levels, weight, power, ease of use, ease of maintenance. Something for bars upto 18" a Husqvarna 550xp, Stihl ms261c-m or a dolmar ps-5105 would be plenty up to 18" bar and you could do double that with advanced felling techniques of course it would take longer.
For 15" up to 28" bars go for something like a dolmar 7910, Husqvarna 372xp 572xp 576xp or a Stihl ms441, ms462 would work nicely
Anything bigger than 28" upto 36" go for something like a Stihl ms661, Husqvarna 390xp, 395xp or a dolmar 9010
And the big guns at 36" to 84" would be the Stihl ms880 or a Husqvarna 3120 those saws are over 100cc and not light or cheap
of course other brands like Jonsered are great saws to but they are being taken over by Redmax
I have used this same brush cutter for years. I would strongly recommend that you try adjusting the left handle so that it rests on or near your left hip. If the handles are the same as mine, it is a much more stable setup. I have used brush cutters over 30 years and now have the one featured here. This arrangement will give you more strength to move brush out of the way and better control especially when back cutting.
+David Smith I'll see if I can make that adjustment.
TheHornedlizardman1 Yes. Give it a chance. You should have your hand clasped to the handle with the butt of your hand resting on your hip. Swing at the waist. You will have much better control. Good luck.
Alan Anz, I will use both approaches, but prefer to cut from right to left as I find I can control the cut more easily than from left to right where the blade pulls into the cut. This machine and my Stihl chainsaw are true workhorses in my brush cutting arsenal!
I love using it when the blade is sharp. It goes right through stuff.
What mixture do you use to stop the brush from growing? I heard you say diesel and herbicide. What is the mix?
How you like it so far? I bought one today
the lockness monster how do you like it?
are you using the echo 8" 80 tooth blade ?
+Top flight I am now using the 9" or 10" blades with 100 - 120 teeth.
Why are you slamming the blade into the brush? It's called a saw blade for a reason.
Justin, it's a 50/50 mix.
I bought a "beaver blade" for it and man that thing rips through small trees with bad intention.
I got two at one time and I don't like them. In fact, I still have one in the original package unused. The chain would dull very quickly soon would be pushing out only sawdust. What works far better are the new carbide tipped brush cutter blades.
+David Smith ... I have come around to your opinion. I have now tried the chainsaw-type blades and the carbide tipped blades and prefer the latter. I'm now using 10" carbide tipped blades and, when sharp, really make quick work of small trees.
TheHornedlizardman1 Great. Sounds like you have nice setup. I used 7 1/4" circular saw carbide blades for several years with a special washer I had made. They're not recommended for that high of an RPM but, I never had a problem. I like the smaller blade for maneuverability and cutting power but the bigger blades work well too.
John, A nice smooth pass will keep your cutter around a lot longer.