The island should not disrupt the work flow. I rented a house that had the fridge on the opposite side of the island. I felt like I was walking in circles every time I made dinner
To me that's the biggest and most common mistake. My grandmother lived in an old farmhouse with a small room for the kitchen with so many doors and tall windows that the sink and stove were on one wall and the refrigerator on the opposite wall. The only eating table had to be in the center of the room. Drove me crazy having to work in that kitchen.
MAJOR mistake when going from a one-piece range to a separate cooktop and oven: I considered putting the oven under the cooktop, but when I saw such an installation in a display at the home center, I found the oven to be uncomfortably low. Think about that when you're thinking about that Twenty-eight pound Thanksgiving turkey. My oven is going to be set at a height to allow a countertop section about 48 to 50 inches above the floor, ideal for a toaster oven, coffee maker, microwve, what-have-you to be at a more usable height as well. Also, I have purchased a ten-inch (approximately) high stainless steel electric warming drawer to be installed under the cooktop to keep casseroles and other sides hot while prepping the rest of the meal, and a matching stainless storage drawer that will go under the warming drawer, planning a tilt-out drawer in the cabinet front below the cooktop for spatulas and such needed at the cook top. Also, if you plan to live in the house instead of flipping it in five years, get the best cabinets and countertops you can afford. There is no saving in cabinets that will come apart before you have paid off the kitchen loan.
Great tips. Maybe say need to say more about the functional placement of sink, dishwasher, oven, stove, micro and refrigerator relative to each other. I often see hopeless constellations.
We are in the process of redesigning our kitchen. We love the idea of an island, but it cuts right into the flow of the room, making a stationary island not worth the loss of space. We've decided to make a small, mobile island that can be tucked underneath the counter when not in use.
I'm 5'4" and our cabinets are really low, like only 15 inches off the counter which i don't like but i can barely reach the top of the cabinet even at this low height. It would be not functional for me to have taller ones. I've designed a kitchen of my dreams with only a couple or no uppers at all!
@Heloise O'Byrne You have a lot of very good points. You could have a kitchen like a big old school writing desk, the fold down lid becomes the counter, items stored on the the back of the counter are hidden when the counter is folded back up. I do think homes are becoming less beautiful? not sure how to put it.
A white kitchen does reflect my personality. I love the clean look of white, and I change the colors of wall art, dish towels, dishes, kitchen mats , all sorts of things so it never gets boring.
Fridges can be in drawers. Ive used them. Utterly transformed ease of use because you can see more from above, than from the side, and easier to pick up
If you move your upper cabinets to 24" off countertop, please take into account of how tall the person using the kitchen is. One client of mine had a problem reaching a normal upper. We built pull out stairs in a base cabinet. 40" distance between cabinets is a bare minimum. You should have enough room so a person in a wheelchair can turn unobstructed. Most important consideration when designing a kitchen is, who will use the kitchen?
@@joyfulinhope1210 if you have problems reaching upper cabinets, if you don't have one and have the space, consider a tall storage cabinet. Installed one that had no doors on it (similar to a bookcase but full depth) and have heard a few times how she likes it for ease of use.
I’m only 5’2” tall so we lowered our counters about 2.5 and it does wonders for ergonomic movement when chopping or kneading bread. We have 6 feet of the lowered counters ending with the sink and then it rises up about 6 inches for the dish washer. It works nicely as a raised coffee bar and finishes out the kitchen nicely. The coffee bar is a few inches taller than standard height and we put in a 1.5’x 1.5’ pull out cutting board below the countertop above the dishwasher. We spent a solid year visiting model homes, historical homes, friends homes, and even homes for sale and working through the motions of making basic meals in each kitchen. We combined all the things we liked and left out what we didn’t and it resulted in the most efficient kitchen I’ve ever used. The more time and thought you can put into kitchen design before you start, the better.
You’ve given us many things to think about. Definitely going to have to do some research BEFORE making a final decision on how the kitchen should look.
Great to hear! Planning, planning, and more planning. It may never be perfect, but it will help eliminate some of the annoyances that can often be overlooked.
A lot of people ask for minor changes after the work has started but they don’t realize that one change leads to other changes that have to be made to accommodate that minor change leading to a whole bunch of extra costs as well as a very elongated time frame. Not to mention possibly different supplies that have to be reordered. Once you have a plan, STICK TO IT !!
This was a great video. One thing to point out, here in New York it’s code that you have to have electrical in an island. This is so you won’t have a cord draping across where someone would walk which is potentially dangerous. Lot of great info here. Thanks !
No Problem :) thank you it’s helped me out a lot as I actually work in Ikea but would like to move into the kitchen planning dept! 😅😊👍 maybe an interesting video to do is most common accidents that happen in a kitchen and how to design to avoid them. i.e banging head off wall cabinet door when you don’t realize it’s open! 😅🥴
Great video!!! One thing to consider though. If your ceiling isn't level, then it might not me a good idea to put storage all the way up, as your top of cabinets or shelves might be touching on one end, and have a 1/2 reveal on the other...... Something to think about?!
Wow! I am so glad that I happened to stumble across your video because I'm in the initial stages of planning a new kitchen. I want a country look/feel to my kitchen. The Farm Style Sinks are appealing to me because of the large working area inside the sink. But they all look so low and appear to be a real back breaker. How deep are these sinks? Are they too deep whereby it is uncomfortable leaning over them while doing dishes, peeling potatoes, etc? A new subscriber and fan.
Thanks! This can really vary from sink to sink. However, the bottom of most apron style farmhouse sinks isn't any lower than a standard undermount stainless steel sink.
@@hsdesignstudio Thank you so much for clearing this up. Please keep doing what you're doing. Your videos are very helpful. They also may help prevent us from making expensive mistakes. Much Appreciated.
I have to disagree that raising the top cabinets a couple inches is not noticeable and is better than leaving an odd gap at the ceiling. As someone that is 4 ft 11 in, a couple inches means that I can't reach the 2nd shelf w/o a stool. Just buy cabinets that DO go all the way to the ceiling to avoid an odd gap.
You are right in that if you are on the shorter side, a few inches can make a difference. However, unless you are buying custom cabinetry, the option to 'just buy cabinets that DO go all the way to the ceiling' is not possible. At the end of the day, this is exactly why each kitchen and 'need' is specific to those using the space.
I agree with Vickie Clark. I am 5' 5" and my cabinets have an 18" wall space with cabinets that go to the ceiling. At 18" I can see and reach into the first 2 shelves with no problem. For the top shelf I either do a tip- toe dance or use a step stool. Like Vickie if you add those extra inches I will need the stool for the second shelf too.
@@sissy20088 I can only reach a few inches into the 2nd shelf and that is if I stand tip toe on the lowest shelf of the bottom cupboard. My 2 and 3-step step ladders gets a lot of use!
@@Telcomvic Isn't it funny how ostensibly kitchens were designed to be workrooms for women, yet were designed by and for men for (people who are far more likely to be tall than women) for some stupid reason. There's a whole book about this, how the world is totally designed for men, even things that are supposed to be for everyone or even just for women. Personally when I build my house I'm doing away with upper cabinets altogether. At 5'0" They are all useless to me, at most I, like you, can reach into the first shelf and then barely into the second and not at all into the third. I don't want to have to lug a stool or step ladder around with me in my kitchen (I had to do this in my last apartment that had storage I swear could only be accessed by NBA players). My kitchen should be usable to _me_ not someone a foot taller than me, period.
@@venus_envy Yes, it does appear that standardization is the enemy of short people. Our cabinets do go up to our 8 1/2 foot ceiling, so I've got a lot of practice climbing ladders and standing on the counter tops to get stuff out of the top shelves. Good thing I'm still pretty agile. LOL
Valuable video... 👌 Do you think it is a good idea to have the Kitchen Sink in the Corner in a Diagonal Fashion.( in L-type & U-type kitchen layout). What's the pros & cons of this type of kitchen sink. Thanks... 🙏
I never put sinks into the corner if I don’t have too. Diagonal is a little different, but I would step back and see if the diagonal could be removed entirely in the first place, and then reassess from there.
Pushing the wall cabinets up only works if the homeowner/primary kitchen user is rather tall, unless you add an open shelf below the wall cabinets that can hold the most used items. At 18” above the counter I can only reach the back of the lowest shelf, the first few inches of the second shelf and if the top shelf can be lowered enough without limiting what can be stored on the shelves below I can just reach the front of that shelf. I usually store cereal boxes on their side there, because they are super lightweight and in my 12” deep wall cabinets they can’t slide back and out of reach if they are on their side. Rather than raising the cabinet in an 8-1/2’ room (which mine is), I’d just box in the area above a 40” cabinet and add crown molding.
I think a huge mistake is ignoring the facts of your real lifestyle and building a generic kitchen with things you don't need and lacking other ones that give you joy. Specially when you come from another culture and have different habits.
Thank you for the video, I've enjoyed several. I'm in the planning stages for my kitchen now and one of the things I'm a little nervous about is that I will not have countertop on either side of my refrigerator. I have a very small space and I'm going to have a pantry and utility closet to one side of the fridge and there's no space to put a countertop on the other side of the fridge. It looks beautiful and I hope I don't regret it. LOL. Regarding your tips though, I am definitely going to reach out to an electrician and plumber now while I have the renderings so I can make sure the design is doable.
Good planning, but a refrigerator or freezer needs "landing space" beside it as in counter top. As most people are right-handed, the most efficient set up is to open the door with the left hand and access items with the right; therefore, you need the door to open on the right (hinged on the left) with landing space to the right to put down what you take out. I find that next you need the sink to process much of the items where the chopping block needs to be next to the sink, so you move to the right from the refrigerator/freezer with counter top between. From the sink you move again to the right with counter top for stuff to the cook top. The microwave needs to be near the freezer/refrigerator if you put stuff from there into it directly; yes, I eat a lot of frozen dinners and heat up leftovers, so on the counter between the refrigerator and the sink. A U-shaped kitchen seems most efficient for movement, but has wasted physical space in the corners. An L-shaped kitchen seems ideal and a one-wall string of appliances is too strung out. The galley type can be efficient. it all depends on what space is available. The refrigerator also needs to be somewhat on the edge of the kitchen to be accessible to others not working in the kitchen, but keeping them out of the work area. A wall oven is very nice to have, but takes up a bit more space. Don't put the cook top/oven right next to the refrigerator where you are creating lots of heat next to a box working hard to cool things down; that makes no sense at all and is wasteful of energy. Also, try to incorporate handicap and aging-in-place accommodations for a truly universally accessible kitchen.
@@virginiamoss7045 You make some great points, unfortunately, very very few kitchens fall into this perfect world of layouts. We almost always have to make sacrifices of some sort in order to accommodate our needs into our spaces. My kitchen is a prime example. I have no countertop space next to my fridge (I would if I could). It simply isn't possible with our homes layout. We just use the end of our L-shaped countertop as the drop zone. I have made many videos on planning and layouts, and this direct order of movement sounds like it works great for you, but that won't be the case for everyone. The key is simply to create a well organized space with a good layout that works for YOU!
@@hsdesignstudio You have to go with what you've got, but knowing the ideal you do the best you can. It's like literary license; in order to take proper literary license you have to know the correct way to write, then you can be successful in making alterations for whatever reasons. As a commercial space planner my view is not for myself, but for the average kitchen worker. I am left handed so I prefer the opposite of what I wrote. If you expect to have another person work with you in your kitchen, then you adjust for that (fewer corners, more room and never any sink or appliances in corners). If you entertain a lot and expect to hire catering to work in your kitchen, that's a whole other plan. If you are mentally most comfortable with what you grew up with out of habit, then you might want to go with that, understanding how and why it's not ideal. That's perfectly acceptable; it's your kitchen and your money and your happiness.
2:32 love the floor, considering the herringbone for my galley. 4:07 Open shelving as the to-the-ceiling cabinets? What better way to turn hard-to-reach into hard-to-clean clutter-catchers? Especially love that cooking vapors tend to rise and settle out on the most inaccessible reaches of such spaces!
We love them. They finished off a space that would have otherwise been pointless, and they get cleaned no differently than any other shelf in our home. It's not as if these cooking vapors are actively seeking out specific points; they settle where they settle. I design for the client and their space when needed, and I design for me and my family when needed. There is always going to be people that dislike one thing or another.
@@hsdesignstudio I guess if you like scrubbing the back of the cabinet while teetering on a ladder. Not my favorite pastime, but if that appeals to your client, RIGHT ON!
White or grey kitchen isn't always boring. There are ons of details like appliances, finish, hardware, backsplash etc. that can make your kitchen look really chic and. I choose a white kithen over a black one because I needed it to blend in. When living room, dining room and kitchen is in the same place (and it is fittetd into 322 square feet) I would not have a statement kitchen since it would make the whole room seem to busy. Not my taste ;)
Sorry, I maybe should have clarified. I was referring to the homes you see with white cabinets, white countetops, and slightly grey walls. No personality, no character! I agree, white cabinets are a great base from which to inject your own touches.
Trinecoulorfunzzz2 - I would love to see your space! I am in the middle of a remodel of a similar sized space and have not finalized plans yet. Any chance you could share?
In the final stages of my kitchen renovation. While I didn't change the basic layout, I did change the island shape, from 90's 3 sided to my own "baseball field" shape. I still have 42+ inches between the island and the two walls (one for range and one for refridgeration/upright freezer). Also, I added an addtional wall oven to the island, because I already had the appliance and who doesn't want another oven during the holidays? Most of the lower cabinets are drawers, and I have 10' ceilings with the top "display" cabinets, but the 42" functional cabinets seem SO HUGE. I'm looking at pull downs for the tops because I'm 5'3" and can barely reach the second shelf! Thoughts?
They definitely can feel tall. My wife is also on the shorter side and we have a stepstool in the kitchen to get to the higher shelves. I find it important to consider what gets placed on each shelf. We have our contents arranged from most used to least used (bottom shelf to top). This minimizes the amount of time we are reaching for the stepstool.
Totally disagree on #1. I love my open shelves and the BEST use for them is everyday dishes! That way they're constantly being used & washed, and never get dusty. A quick wipe now and then when unloading the dishwasher and I never have to "clean" them at all! Otoh, if you put your fancy stuff on there that you never use, it's a total dust magnet.
@@UnseenSpirit I have a variety... 4-8 pieces of each type of plate (small, medium, large), and bowl (small, medium, large). Glasses, 3-4 each of multiple styles. I take the top ones to use, some for serving some for eating, and put them away underneath. I've never had any of them be dusty, except maybe a pitcher or platter from the top shelf. If you're not using them and they get dusty, I'd seriously consider decluttering some dishes!
Most people's everyday dishes are not really "display worthy" If you know what I mean. Out of all the things I'd want to display in a kitchen my $35 dollar set of Walmart plates really isn't one of them. Open shelves look really nice when done correctly, but they are objectively less practical and more high maintenance .
@@hillary96renteria82 But why not use dishes that you love every day? I have fiesta ware, not expensive, but they being me joy when I look at their bright colors! Much moreso than a closed up box wood.
@@BethKiesel3n1 i don’t really care about dishes really. A plain plate is good enough for me, just not something I want to display as decor. I have zero desire to throw away a perfectly good set and buy another one, just because it’s not “cute”
Do you have a tutorial for your drawer front to 6" filler cabinet hack at 3:54 minutes in? I am looking for something just like that, but not sure what to do for the box. Just build out a 6" box and use glue edge banding or paint to match the ikea boxes? Also, is that a piano hinge or a special hinge?
Hi Carla- I don't have a video on it unfortunately, but let me try and walk you through it. I use the two cabinets on either side of the opening as my main structure. To color match, I use IKEA's filler panels to "line" the interior of the hidden cabinet. This will give you the opportunity to have all finished edges facing forward. Because I build my own toe-kicks, I also make sure they continue under this hidden cabinet, giving me a place for an actual base. Finally, I have used both a piano hinge as well as IKEA hinges (Kreg hinge jig to make the holes). However, the piano hinge is definitely the simpler system and you can't tell the difference once complete. To open and close, I have a magnetic style latch on the inside (this is the only time you will ever see me without cabinet hardware haha!). Was that clear..ish?
Love all your advice…except one….as a 25 year appliance sales and kitchen design expert I really feel the cabinet depth refrigerator is way too small for the high price you pay.for the look. Now, if you don’t cook and have lots of cash to throw away go for it. There is a way to get the built in look by putting in deeper cabinets surrounding the frig. Then putting in a panel on both sides that match the depth from the top down,horizontally speaking.that way you get the look and a bigger frig too. The thing that would keep this plan from working is where the frig doors open. If they hit a dishwasher, or oven or cabinet then back to another plan.
Thanks! There are lots of ways to make a standard depth fridge work, most of them just require sacrifice. Just like a counter depth fridge also requires sacrifice. Our family of 5 cooks A LOT and we have a counter depth fridge (only 33" wide as well). It works well for us, but may not for others.
I like my counter depth fridge because the volume is wide instead of deep. Therefore there's more room for more things up from instead deep behind everything else.
Beware the fun or trendy choice in colour schemes. I currently have about the worlds worst kitchen that looks great in photos. Dark counter tops and splash backs do not a good working environment make.
I'm going with blue pearl Medium-dark blue, but very sparkly) for the countertops, but a contrasting lighter-color granite called blue eyes (light grey with iridescent very bright blue crystals that show when the light catches them at the right angles), sort of cream-color cabinets, and bold colors (mostly red) for the countertop appliances. That KitchenAid mixer and Dash toaster will never get lost in the shuffle.
@@5610winston . There’s little natural light in my kitchen and without cutting the roof for a skylight no way to get any. So I have fitted a number of led baton lights under the wall cabinets and other places and need to turn them all on if I want to see anything because I have a blue flecked granite laminate bench top and a gloss black splash back. As soon as I decide what to replace it all with it’s gone.
I'm going for light colors, leaning toward light gray and a tulip-cream white with blue pearl granite for the countertops, and bright, bold colors for the small appliances and enamel cookware. Definitely using full-height to the cabinet granite backsplashes for ease of cleaning. You can keep the grout lines and ridged cabinet doors.
I just found your channel and am binge watching. There are so many helpful nuggets. Thank you! I noticed in a clip shown in this video, a kitchen with a pitched/angled ceiling is shown. That’s the problem I’m trying to figure out now. The one kitchen wall we have available for cabinets has a ceiling that is at a very noticeable (borderline steep) angle, how does one design cabinets around that? The builder (20-ish yrs ago) just installed them straight across leaving a gap so that one side has a lot of wasted space all the way to the higher ceiling side where there’s a ton of wasted space… But I think there must be a better way. I can’t seem to figure out what phrase to even Google search answers to this dilemma.
Couple more things I think need more consideration: the social aspect of kitchens that are open to other living spaces. Cooktops and or sinks which face the dining or living areas. This allows the “cook” to chat freely with family and guests. The other is common areas. Consider the items like the fridge and garbage bins which folk might want to access while someone is busy with sharp knives or fragile items. If these are put near the edge of the kitchen the space is more people friendly too. Also, the fewer corner cabinets the easier it is to use all the storage space.
Those are definitely good points, but not what I would call mistakes if done otherwise. Fridges naturally make their way to the edge of spaces simply due to size and depth. I'm not a fan of cooktops or sinks facing common areas, because we don't typically sit in front of these for extended periods when we have guests. They also make for extra challenges when it comes to ventilation and plumbing, and can unnecessarily drive up reno costs. That being said, there are times when it makes sense. Like everything with design, it ultimately comes down to the individual using the kitchen and the space available.
I have 36” around my island on the plans. Our kitchen was small so it was that or no island and honestly that just wasn’t an option for us since our top demand was more prep/counter space. Luckily it’s just on two sides since our cabinets are L shaped. The rest is pretty open. I think writing down your top priorities during a remodel is so important! That way every single decision you can go back to that list and ask, does the added cost of this meet my priority? Our designer suggested that and it’s been a lifesaver for making hard choices!
Thank you for the useful idea! Especially, I like the small space saver from ikea. What is the name ? I really need one.but I can't find ikea's web site.
@@t.beatty3103 thank you for directing me there! That is a small custom cabinet I designed to take advantage of skinny spaces. You can read about it here: www.thehomestud.com/hidden-ikea-storage-cabinet/ If you use custom cabinet makers, this is an easy add on. With IKEA or other RTA cabinets, it requires a little creativity.
I would like to have my dropped grid with plastic panels & hidden 48" florescent lights into a raised closed ceiling with main lights suspended, so I can reach the bilbs to easily change them.
Im taking down that exact light set up in my kitchen right now. The original builder of my 40 year old house didn’t even bother to finish that space. I had so many holes to patch and even had to put corner beads on the edges, but just taking down that plastic grid thing made my kitchen so much better. I no longer felt like I had to hunch over.
We have an old house with 91/2 foot ceilings, the old cabinets go the the ceilings, but I hate those upper cabinets, I can’t reach them and it seems silly to pay for storage I don’t use. Thoughts?
There are a few ways to approach this- from a design and aesthetic perspective, finishing cabinets to the ceiling gives off a more visually appealing design. On the other hand, pointless storage makes no functional sense and costs more. Depending on your design, adding simply (and tall) crown moulding can be a nice way to bring the cabinets down further and give a finished look. On the other hand, a more mid-century modern design often looks better with spacing above the wall cabinets in rooms with high ceilings. Sorry that was long winded, but hopefully it helps.
You need to look at what Blum shows about the ergonomics of the kitchen. They look at zoning the kitchen instead of looking at the triangle. They came up with that over 20 years ago. Just a FYI.
I'm aware of Blum's kitchen zoning. Its a great way to think about cabinet placement and working areas in one cohesive plan. However, it doesn't make thinking about the working triangle during design irrelevant.
We are building our home from scratch and we have conceptualized having the sink and cooktop on the island with the fridge and an in cabinet stove behind them. I haven't seen that done before, except at a cooking school I used to work with and was wondering what your opinion is on it?
The only thing I would be worried about is work space/spacing between the sink and and cooktop. Typically an island would not be large enough to house both of those elements with enough space to work. I am also not a huge fan of appliances in the island, but that is a larger discussion.
@@hsdesignstudio we are designing the house from scratch so we can create the amount of space that we need. I do worry about having the cooktop on the island.
@@oansheikh8087 its not only space- island size can also dictate countertop selection (seams). Lots to think about. Feel free to reach out at contact@thehomestud.com and we can talk in more detail.
I'm having to gut my galley kitchen for some structural repairs and replacing 40-plus-year-old laminate countertops and contractor-grade cabinets, a dead fridge, and covering up some Formica wall paneling that I'm sure seemed like a good idea at the time.
@@hsdesignstudio Still planning, and still love the 2:32 herringbone floor in that orientation lengthwise down the flow of traffic. Wish I could find a lighter color LVP than the LIFEPROOF _Biscayne Oak_ herringbone. My house is about 85 to 90 years old, with beautiful aged red oak hardwood floors except for the kitchen and breakfast/laundry room which has vinyl sheet floor covering. I like the contrast between the kitchen suite (that's how I'm thinking about it) and the dining room into the rest of the house, but that vinyl sheet is hideous!
in the planning stages of redoing our kitchen (and saving up for a chunk of the cost). we have a updated to 1979 galley kitchen with very little counter top space. We are plumbed in for a dishwasher (just need electrical done), so hopefully that will add some counter space where dirty dishes are currently. Thinking of keeping appliances where they are, electrical wise, and possibly extending storage/counter top space. For a small kitchen, what is the minimum counter space desired?
I dont think there is a minimum (my opinion). I think it comes down to maximizing your layout and getting in as much as you can without artificially forcing it to happen. Also be honest with yourself and how much you need. That will be more for some, and less for others.
Have you ever raised a countertop height? I would like 1 or 2 more inches higher countertops but thought it would be too weird when I try to resell. Is it too weird? Should I just learn to deal with countertops that always feel too short?
My appartment has a raised kitchen island. I think, it's the easiest (just longer legs below the cabinets) and it's easy to change, if anyone in the future doesn't like it.
@@sugoiharris1348 yes, go this route! Try and keep it to a single area if possible. Even better if it is detached from your main countertop area. Raising the entire countertop can also bring in some other headaches such as weird gaps above the dishwasher.
@@hsdesignstudio thanks! I actually found this old cutout of the countertops I have that the previous owner held onto just after you responded. Excellent timing. It’s large enough to cover my stove and protect the glass cooktop (bonus) and I’ve been using it as a workspace. Makes a huge difference to have that extra little bit of height. Glad I found a free and temporary fix.
I know you said that all white kitchens are blah and your personal opinion - but, IMO all white kitchens are a great canvas to add color and give you flexibility of being able to change your decor when you want. I think the reason all white kitchens have become so popular is because for the longest time, trends were to have pops of color in everything - things that are hard to change (i.e. cabinets). When it comes to decor, just do what makes you happy. Who cares about trends!
White kitchens aren't blah, I'm all for white kitchens! They just need some personality somewhere. I'm just not a fan of white on white on white, with some grey.
What would you suggest for replacing linoleum floor with a snap in plank flooring? I am just refacing the base cabinets, not replacing them. Would this make a too noticeable/weird difference in workable countertop height?
You will almost be guaranteed not to notice it depending on the type of flooring! Sorry for the late reply, this comment seemed to have escaped me. As long as you don't go with the ultra thick laminate options out there, anything in the 4-8mm thick range will be largely unnoticeable. Just remember to adjust your range feet so it doesn't sit to high above the countertop.
Cabinets height question....Do you still recommend up to the ceiling cabinets for a petite person 5' 2" or less? Are there any options? Especially when the ceilings are high to begin with. Thanks
I'm short and I prefer not having upper cabinets but instead use space saving hacks for the lower cabinets and pantry, and I avoid having more things that I can store (a bit difficult 😅)
I'm 5'6 but it's still an issue. I too have 10' ceilings but it was the same in my last kitchen...8' ceilings with a bulkhead. I hated it! I prefer to remove all the upper cabinets and use open shelving. If you have the wall space, a single long shelf on each wall would do. Sadly I don't have the wall space and so need at least 2, probably 3 upper shelves. Many people store their dishes in lower drawer stacks, so the need for upper cabinetry is gone (unless you have a very small kitchen). I don't like cabinets that stop short (dust magnets) , and I think the "all the way to the ceiling" look is heavy, and just a way for designers to make extra money. Open up the walls, it'll look so much lighter! Add some art or decorative items, wallpaper or paint, or even kitchen utensils/pots can hang on the wall at a good level for you to reach.
My wife and I split cooking 50/50. She is 5'4", and i'm 6'1" I have no problem with stuff being up high, she doesn't like it. But it works great for stuff that is not used a whole lot. Logical thing to do in a kitchen with tall cabinets would be a step stool.
I can see where they have their place, but like open shelving I'm not a big fan of daily use items out in the open, especially dishware. I steer clear of pot racks as well.
It still boggles my mind how many kitchen designs make almost no consideration to lighting placement, especially when it comes to task lighting. I rented a recently renovated place which only had a 3-light track light in the middle of the ceiling. It was fine for lightning the general area, but the track lights casted an awful shadow wherever you stood anywhere along the perimeter countertop. I brought it up to property management as an FYI for future renovations, and they looked at me like I was from outer space, only replying with, "You know you can adjust the track lighting, right?", which does absolutely no good if the actual track is behind you in the center of the room. It makes me wonder if any actual designers are consulted with these renovations, or if it's just a random person with no experience making design choices in an email before hitting 'send' and moving on to other things.
My two cents:. Our sink is on our island. Our dining room table is just a few feet from the island. We find that it's great because you can easily talk with family or guests at the table while you prep dinner, make cocktails or do the dishes afterwards. Even when making dinner I find we spend more time looking outwards from the sink area than from the stove area. Also if you put a cooktop on an island you have to consider how to vent it which will likely block sight lines. The biggest drawback with a sink at island can be the cost of bringing the plumbing there.
This really depends on the design or style of the kitchen you are trying to create. Sometimes it is better to run the cabinetry to the ceiling with 40+” cabinets, other times it makes more sense to keep them lower and streamlined.
@@hsdesignstudio I have the same situation and have cabinets purchased already (I found some takeouts from a interior designers studio and saved some money - cabinets are expensive!) my dilemma is that I have 9’ ceilings, 36” counters and the cabinets I have are 42”(upper cabinets) + 15” (top display cabinets that go on top of the 42” cabinets). I would like to use the 42” and 15” upper cabinets together but with the 108”(9ft) -36” (counter) - 42” - 15” = 15” gap between the counter and upper cabinets. You shoot for 18” for the gap between the counter and the upper cabinets.Would it be a horrible idea if I only had a 15” gap? If I didn’t use the very top section of the upper 15” cabinet I could position the 42” cabinets at any height on the wall but then I would have about a 12” or 10” gap inbetween the top of the cabinets and ceiling. What would you recommend? Option 1: Cabinets all the way to the ceiling and a 15” gap between the counter and uppers? Option 2: Ditch the 15” top cabinet section and only use the 42” section of the uppers: this would allow me to make a 18” gap between the counter and upper but would leave me with an awkward 12” gap between the uppers and ceiling.
That is a great question. And to be honest I am not sure, it's not something I have ever encountered. However, I'd venture to guess it all comes down to porousity and cleanability. It if is really rough and porous, you may want to consider at least a small backsplash. Sorry to not be of more help..
Hi, I'm 5' tall. So I lowered the height of my upper cabinet near the sink so I could access the dish rack installed in it for storing dishes. But that has left just 6 inches space left below it. The countertop space underneath the cabinet seems useless now.What do I do ?
@@bushrajamal7386 There isn't much of an option at this point unfortunately. The easiest possible solution is probably to set it on the countertop, and then add a new cabinet above to take advantage of the old space. However, it's hard to give perfect advice without examining the kitchen and situation.
If You put as much function in the rest of the house , I sure would love to see a walk & talk through video !!!! I'm thinking about building a small retirement house for My " DREAM KILLER " and Myself ..., but I can't find one on youtube that is functional ( well I did find one , I really liked ... but ... the " DREAM KILLER " ... lets just leave it at that ) I own 5ac ( paid for ) . The house ( IF I build ) will by necessity be 100% off grid & w/as much propane appliances as possible . Are You up for a design challenge ? If I give You the measurements of what I already have , to put in the house , can You design a house to fit ? I have a lot of ideas I think would make this house affordable ( at least by today's standards ) , and above all , functional & cozy ( both warm AND cool !
If it is a fixed island, yes you are absolutely correct. However, that is not the case if it is 'moveable' in any way. I have several clients who have gone with an extra large butcher block style island with no cabinetry underneath, specifically to avoid the mandatory outlets.
countertop height should really be chosen to match the individual - i was stuck for years cooking in a kitchen with countertops just 1-2 inches too low, and it was a nightmare! standing slightly hunched over during meal prep will give you fierce backpain in no time and suck all the joy out of cooking. a good kitchen studio will take your measurements and adjust the height of the contertop (and the upper cabinets!) accordingly
Yes, I agree there should be some modification when necessary. However, it can only be done to a certain extent. For example, if you want a standard dishwasher under the countertop. The same goes with the height of wall cabinets- your ceiling height plays an important role.
One of my pet peeves are drawers that are left partially open because they tend to leave enough opening to allow dripping liquid into the contents. Is there a drawer design that automatically fully closes when it's left partially open?
What if your L shape kitchen walls aren’t 90 degrees? My kitchen walls have an awkward 110° which I don’t know what to do in that corner to maximize cabinet space
That is an awkward angle! I'd have to take a look at the space as a whole and how the appliances/rest of kitchen are laid out. However, I think you would treat one side rather normally and then get creative with the other, making a somewhat custom cabinet to fit the off angle.
It really depends on the space. For the ones in the video (because they aren't carrying much weight) they are resting on top of the wall cabinets and held in place with screws from below. In the case of larger shelving, I create a separate attachment system so the cabinetry below is not carrying the extra weight.
I have 9” (108”) ceilings and have cabinets purchased already (I found some takeouts from a interior designers studio and saved some money - cabinets are expensive!) my dilemma is that I have 9’ ceilings, 36” counters and the cabinets I have are 42”(upper cabinets) + 15” (top display cabinets that go on top of the 42” cabinets). I would like to use the 42” and 15” upper cabinets together but with the 108”(9ft) -36” (counter) - 42” - 15” = 15” gap between the counter and upper cabinets. You recommend shooting for an 18” for the gap between the counter and the upper cabinets. Would it be a horrible idea if I only had a 15” gap? If I didn’t use the very top section of the upper 15” cabinet I could position the 42” cabinets at any height on the wall but then I would have about a 12” gap inbetween the top of the cabinets and ceiling. What would you recommend? Option 1: Cabinets all the way to the ceiling and a 15” gap between the counter and uppers? Option 2: Ditch the 15” top cabinet section and only use the 42” section of the uppers: this would allow me to make a 18” gap between the counter and upper but would leave me with an awkward 12” gap between the uppers and ceiling. Thanks in advance for your input!
I wouldn't want a 15" gap above my countertops- that's my opinion though and some may disagree. I also don't like to have cabinet doors flush to the ceiling...
Or have a house where there isn't a single person shorter than 6' tall. It's all about designing for the person. I'm not saying to do it in every kitchen, that's why there is a range. It also depends on the kitchen.
According to electrical code, islands are required to have an outlet, sometimes multiple, depending on size. That's enough to make me not want one since I'm on a concrete slab.
Totally fair. Most houses built around me have basements, making electrical easy to run to an island. Even with a cement pad, adding electrical just requires a little extra planning.
We are trying to figure this out as well...on concrete, redoing kitchen with island and quartz waterfall edge. Area has power currently (we're reshaping the current island and re-tiling the floor) but not sure where to place outlets. I hate those popups and refuse to cut into the waterfall :/
@@BethKiesel3n1 Oh yeah, definitely wouldn't want to cut into quartz for an outlet. Could you put the outlets on the backside of the cabinets? Or do you have cabinets on both sides? Could you hide the outlets inside the cabinets? I don't know the electrical code exactly, but it essentially comes down to having to be able to reach an outlet with a 2 foot long cord, because that's basically what all small appliances have. On a countertop that means an outlet every 4 feet max.
@@andrewbrown784 we have had these same ideas... there will be seating, but no cabinets on the back of the island. We're planning on doing something decorative there, maybe large format tiles. So there's a 15" overhang there anyway. We can do outlet strips underneath for the people sitting on the island I guess? Inside cabinets/drawers is an option, but not sure if it's to code. We even considered toe kick but again, too long Argh 😫
Forcing an island into the space is never worth it! There are always alternative ways to create the extra countertop space and storage. Knocking down a wall, now that's a different story!
Yes, it's the same in most places. However, as I said in other comments you can skirt the rules with non-fixed islands. I should have been more clear in the vid!
Thank you, that's true. I call my kitchen my office because I'm cooking and baking so much. Our 80's recessed florescent bulbs need upgrading. Our base cabinet installation is lopsided. The cabinets are too high by an inch and a half on the right side.
If you are looking for a hand in your kitchen design process, check out our studio! I'd love to work with you: www.thehomestud.com/homestud-studios/
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The island should not disrupt the work flow. I rented a house that had the fridge on the opposite side of the island. I felt like I was walking in circles every time I made dinner
To me that's the biggest and most common mistake. My grandmother lived in an old farmhouse with a small room for the kitchen with so many doors and tall windows that the sink and stove were on one wall and the refrigerator on the opposite wall. The only eating table had to be in the center of the room. Drove me crazy having to work in that kitchen.
That’s how my current kitchen is-I hate it!
MAJOR mistake when going from a one-piece range to a separate cooktop and oven: I considered putting the oven under the cooktop, but when I saw such an installation in a display at the home center, I found the oven to be uncomfortably low. Think about that when you're thinking about that Twenty-eight pound Thanksgiving turkey. My oven is going to be set at a height to allow a countertop section about 48 to 50 inches above the floor, ideal for a toaster oven, coffee maker, microwve, what-have-you to be at a more usable height as well.
Also, I have purchased a ten-inch (approximately) high stainless steel electric warming drawer to be installed under the cooktop to keep casseroles and other sides hot while prepping the rest of the meal, and a matching stainless storage drawer that will go under the warming drawer, planning a tilt-out drawer in the cabinet front below the cooktop for spatulas and such needed at the cook top.
Also, if you plan to live in the house instead of flipping it in five years, get the best cabinets and countertops you can afford. There is no saving in cabinets that will come apart before you have paid off the kitchen loan.
probably the most useful content on YT. thank you
I appreciate that, thanks
The last advice is the most valuable!
Thanks for this precious video
Love from Italy 🇮🇹
Thank you!
Italy is famous for it's modern kitchens
Thanks a mil! Seen a few videos but this one made me draw for a note pad!
That's awesome!
Great tips. Maybe say need to say more about the functional placement of sink, dishwasher, oven, stove, micro and refrigerator relative to each other. I often see hopeless constellations.
New to to the channel. Great video! Thanks for sharing.
We are in the process of redesigning our kitchen. We love the idea of an island, but it cuts right into the flow of the room, making a stationary island not worth the loss of space. We've decided to make a small, mobile island that can be tucked underneath the counter when not in use.
I just worked with a client to do a very similar idea 👍
As someone who is only 5'2" (157cm), I don't like how high up those 18 inch cabinets are. xD They're basically decorative at that point..
Me too! It's difficult to clean properly, which is not good for a kitchen.
In the picture, they look REALLY high off the countertop, more like 28”.
For sure, I'm 163cm and my kitchen isn't going to have any overhead cabinets.
I'm 5'4" and our cabinets are really low, like only 15 inches off the counter which i don't like but i can barely reach the top of the cabinet even at this low height. It would be not functional for me to have taller ones. I've designed a kitchen of my dreams with only a couple or no uppers at all!
@Heloise O'Byrne You have a lot of very good points. You could have a kitchen like a big old school writing desk, the fold down lid becomes the counter, items stored on the the back of the counter are hidden when the counter is folded back up. I do think homes are becoming less beautiful? not sure how to put it.
A white kitchen does reflect my personality. I love the clean look of white, and I change the colors of wall art, dish towels, dishes, kitchen mats , all sorts of things so it never gets boring.
This is a perfect way to inject color into your space!
Fridges can be in drawers. Ive used them. Utterly transformed ease of use because you can see more from above, than from the side, and easier to pick up
Great Video 🫡🖤🏡
Very helpful! Thank you!
If you move your upper cabinets to 24" off countertop, please take into account of how tall the person using the kitchen is. One client of mine had a problem reaching a normal upper. We built pull out stairs in a base cabinet.
40" distance between cabinets is a bare minimum. You should have enough room so a person in a wheelchair can turn unobstructed.
Most important consideration when designing a kitchen is, who will use the kitchen?
You are correct- design for the intended user
Mine only has 33 in and I have a lot of trouble even with a walker.
@@joyfulinhope1210 if you have problems reaching upper cabinets, if you don't have one and have the space, consider a tall storage cabinet. Installed one that had no doors on it (similar to a bookcase but full depth) and have heard a few times how she likes it for ease of use.
Just refinanced and looking to remodel kitchen. This was soooooooo helpful. Thank you for taking the time to help us.
Thanks for watching! All the best with your upcoming renovation 👍
So happy I came across this!! Super helpful info.
Thank you!
I’m only 5’2” tall so we lowered our counters about 2.5 and it does wonders for ergonomic movement when chopping or kneading bread. We have 6 feet of the lowered counters ending with the sink and then it rises up about 6 inches for the dish washer. It works nicely as a raised coffee bar and finishes out the kitchen nicely. The coffee bar is a few inches taller than standard height and we put in a 1.5’x 1.5’ pull out cutting board below the countertop above the dishwasher. We spent a solid year visiting model homes, historical homes, friends homes, and even homes for sale and working through the motions of making basic meals in each kitchen. We combined all the things we liked and left out what we didn’t and it resulted in the most efficient kitchen I’ve ever used. The more time and thought you can put into kitchen design before you start, the better.
You’ve given us many things to think about. Definitely going to have to do some research BEFORE making a final decision on how the kitchen should look.
Great to hear! Planning, planning, and more planning. It may never be perfect, but it will help eliminate some of the annoyances that can often be overlooked.
A lot of people ask for minor changes after the work has started but they don’t realize that one change leads to other changes that have to be made to accommodate that minor change leading to a whole bunch of extra costs as well as a very elongated time frame. Not to mention possibly different supplies that have to be reordered. Once you have a plan, STICK TO IT !!
@@billmccluskey6294 absolutely! Most folks don't realize the waterfall effect with change orders.
This was a great video. One thing to point out, here in New York it’s code that you have to have electrical in an island. This is so you won’t have a cord draping across where someone would walk which is potentially dangerous. Lot of great info here. Thanks !
You are correct, and it is code everywhere actually! The biggest thing is not all island are 'fixed' and thus can skirt some of these building codes.
Did he just say huevos so smoothly 😂. Respect sir 👍.
Great tips 👌. Thanks 😊
Thanks for watching 👍
Thank you very much! great advice and a very well professionally made video.
Thank you for the kind words
No Problem :) thank you it’s helped me out a lot as I actually work in Ikea but would like to move into the kitchen planning dept! 😅😊👍 maybe an interesting video to do is most common accidents that happen in a kitchen and how to design to avoid them.
i.e banging head off wall cabinet door when you don’t realize it’s open! 😅🥴
This is really helpful! Thanks for the great video
Thanks for watching!
Great video!!! One thing to consider though. If your ceiling isn't level, then it might not me a good idea to put storage all the way up, as your top of cabinets or shelves might be touching on one end, and have a 1/2 reveal on the other......
Something to think about?!
That is what scribers are for!
Wow! I am so glad that I happened to stumble across your video because I'm in the initial stages of planning a new kitchen. I want a country look/feel to my kitchen. The Farm Style Sinks are appealing to me because of the large working area inside the sink. But they all look so low and appear to be a real back breaker. How deep are these sinks? Are they too deep whereby it is uncomfortable leaning over them while doing dishes, peeling potatoes, etc? A new subscriber and fan.
Thanks! This can really vary from sink to sink. However, the bottom of most apron style farmhouse sinks isn't any lower than a standard undermount stainless steel sink.
@@hsdesignstudio Thank you so much for clearing this up. Please keep doing what you're doing. Your videos are very helpful. They also may help prevent us from making expensive mistakes. Much Appreciated.
so helpful! thank you so much!!!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found it useful 👍
i enjoy watchiung your video and it gives me an idea to design my kitchen thank you ... youre new subscriber thank you again
Thank you! Welcome to the community ❤
One of the Best
Thanks 👍
I have to disagree that raising the top cabinets a couple inches is not noticeable and is better than leaving an odd gap at the ceiling. As someone that is 4 ft 11 in, a couple inches means that I can't reach the 2nd shelf w/o a stool. Just buy cabinets that DO go all the way to the ceiling to avoid an odd gap.
You are right in that if you are on the shorter side, a few inches can make a difference. However, unless you are buying custom cabinetry, the option to 'just buy cabinets that DO go all the way to the ceiling' is not possible. At the end of the day, this is exactly why each kitchen and 'need' is specific to those using the space.
I agree with Vickie Clark. I am 5' 5" and my cabinets have an 18" wall space with cabinets that go to the ceiling. At 18" I can see and reach into the first 2 shelves with no problem. For the top shelf I either do a tip- toe dance or use a step stool. Like Vickie if you add those extra inches I will need the stool for the second shelf too.
@@sissy20088 I can only reach a few inches into the 2nd shelf and that is if I stand tip toe on the lowest shelf of the bottom cupboard. My 2 and 3-step step ladders gets a lot of use!
@@Telcomvic Isn't it funny how ostensibly kitchens were designed to be workrooms for women, yet were designed by and for men for (people who are far more likely to be tall than women) for some stupid reason. There's a whole book about this, how the world is totally designed for men, even things that are supposed to be for everyone or even just for women. Personally when I build my house I'm doing away with upper cabinets altogether. At 5'0" They are all useless to me, at most I, like you, can reach into the first shelf and then barely into the second and not at all into the third. I don't want to have to lug a stool or step ladder around with me in my kitchen (I had to do this in my last apartment that had storage I swear could only be accessed by NBA players). My kitchen should be usable to _me_ not someone a foot taller than me, period.
@@venus_envy Yes, it does appear that standardization is the enemy of short people. Our cabinets do go up to our 8 1/2 foot ceiling, so I've got a lot of practice climbing ladders and standing on the counter tops to get stuff out of the top shelves. Good thing I'm still pretty agile. LOL
Valuable video... 👌
Do you think it is a good idea to have the Kitchen Sink in the Corner in a Diagonal Fashion.( in L-type & U-type kitchen layout).
What's the pros & cons of this type of kitchen sink.
Thanks... 🙏
I never put sinks into the corner if I don’t have too. Diagonal is a little different, but I would step back and see if the diagonal could be removed entirely in the first place, and then reassess from there.
Raising the cabinets up 2” to get the cabinets to go right to the ceiling is a brilliant trick to avoid the gap at the top!
Definitely one solution that works! Another is a simple piece of trim to fill that gap. All depends on the home.
Great video!👍🏻
Thank you!
Pushing the wall cabinets up only works if the homeowner/primary kitchen user is rather tall, unless you add an open shelf below the wall cabinets that can hold the most used items. At 18” above the counter I can only reach the back of the lowest shelf, the first few inches of the second shelf and if the top shelf can be lowered enough without limiting what can be stored on the shelves below I can just reach the front of that shelf. I usually store cereal boxes on their side there, because they are super lightweight and in my 12” deep wall cabinets they can’t slide back and out of reach if they are on their side. Rather than raising the cabinet in an 8-1/2’ room (which mine is), I’d just box in the area above a 40” cabinet and add crown molding.
I think a huge mistake is ignoring the facts of your real lifestyle and building a generic kitchen with things you don't need and lacking other ones that give you joy. Specially when you come from another culture and have different habits.
Couldn't agree more! Personal lifestyle and functionality are key to a good working kitchen space.
Thank you for the video, I've enjoyed several. I'm in the planning stages for my kitchen now and one of the things I'm a little nervous about is that I will not have countertop on either side of my refrigerator. I have a very small space and I'm going to have a pantry and utility closet to one side of the fridge and there's no space to put a countertop on the other side of the fridge. It looks beautiful and I hope I don't regret it. LOL. Regarding your tips though, I am definitely going to reach out to an electrician and plumber now while I have the renderings so I can make sure the design is doable.
Yes, definitely talk with the tradesperson before ordering and starting construction. It may save your bacon!
Good planning, but a refrigerator or freezer needs "landing space" beside it as in counter top. As most people are right-handed, the most efficient set up is to open the door with the left hand and access items with the right; therefore, you need the door to open on the right (hinged on the left) with landing space to the right to put down what you take out. I find that next you need the sink to process much of the items where the chopping block needs to be next to the sink, so you move to the right from the refrigerator/freezer with counter top between. From the sink you move again to the right with counter top for stuff to the cook top. The microwave needs to be near the freezer/refrigerator if you put stuff from there into it directly; yes, I eat a lot of frozen dinners and heat up leftovers, so on the counter between the refrigerator and the sink.
A U-shaped kitchen seems most efficient for movement, but has wasted physical space in the corners. An L-shaped kitchen seems ideal and a one-wall string of appliances is too strung out. The galley type can be efficient. it all depends on what space is available. The refrigerator also needs to be somewhat on the edge of the kitchen to be accessible to others not working in the kitchen, but keeping them out of the work area. A wall oven is very nice to have, but takes up a bit more space. Don't put the cook top/oven right next to the refrigerator where you are creating lots of heat next to a box working hard to cool things down; that makes no sense at all and is wasteful of energy. Also, try to incorporate handicap and aging-in-place accommodations for a truly universally accessible kitchen.
@@virginiamoss7045 You make some great points, unfortunately, very very few kitchens fall into this perfect world of layouts. We almost always have to make sacrifices of some sort in order to accommodate our needs into our spaces. My kitchen is a prime example. I have no countertop space next to my fridge (I would if I could). It simply isn't possible with our homes layout. We just use the end of our L-shaped countertop as the drop zone.
I have made many videos on planning and layouts, and this direct order of movement sounds like it works great for you, but that won't be the case for everyone. The key is simply to create a well organized space with a good layout that works for YOU!
@@hsdesignstudio You have to go with what you've got, but knowing the ideal you do the best you can. It's like literary license; in order to take proper literary license you have to know the correct way to write, then you can be successful in making alterations for whatever reasons. As a commercial space planner my view is not for myself, but for the average kitchen worker. I am left handed so I prefer the opposite of what I wrote. If you expect to have another person work with you in your kitchen, then you adjust for that (fewer corners, more room and never any sink or appliances in corners). If you entertain a lot and expect to hire catering to work in your kitchen, that's a whole other plan. If you are mentally most comfortable with what you grew up with out of habit, then you might want to go with that, understanding how and why it's not ideal. That's perfectly acceptable; it's your kitchen and your money and your happiness.
2:32 love the floor, considering the herringbone for my galley.
4:07 Open shelving as the to-the-ceiling cabinets? What better way to turn hard-to-reach into hard-to-clean clutter-catchers? Especially love that cooking vapors tend to rise and settle out on the most inaccessible reaches of such spaces!
We love them. They finished off a space that would have otherwise been pointless, and they get cleaned no differently than any other shelf in our home. It's not as if these cooking vapors are actively seeking out specific points; they settle where they settle. I design for the client and their space when needed, and I design for me and my family when needed. There is always going to be people that dislike one thing or another.
@@hsdesignstudio I guess if you like scrubbing the back of the cabinet while teetering on a ladder. Not my favorite pastime, but if that appeals to your client, RIGHT ON!
Great detail shared🙏 what tool do you use for the kitchen graphics / animation?
I use ProKitchen Software for all of my design work
White or grey kitchen isn't always boring. There are ons of details like appliances, finish, hardware, backsplash etc. that can make your kitchen look really chic and. I choose a white kithen over a black one because I needed it to blend in. When living room, dining room and kitchen is in the same place (and it is fittetd into 322 square feet) I would not have a statement kitchen since it would make the whole room seem to busy. Not my taste ;)
Sorry, I maybe should have clarified. I was referring to the homes you see with white cabinets, white countetops, and slightly grey walls. No personality, no character! I agree, white cabinets are a great base from which to inject your own touches.
Trinecoulorfunzzz2 - I would love to see your space! I am in the middle of a remodel of a similar sized space and have not finalized plans yet. Any chance you could share?
Hi, I like the software you use to design kitchens. What is the name, and where can I get it. Cheers!!
Its called ProKitchen. It's professional software not necessarily target to homeowners, as it does have quite a cost.
Thank you for the prompt response.
@@isaacmambo5071 no problem 👍
great tips thank you
Great info!! I’m about to leave my kitchen remodeled. This is very helpful
Thanks- glad to hear it helped you out!
In the final stages of my kitchen renovation. While I didn't change the basic layout, I did change the island shape, from 90's 3 sided to my own "baseball field" shape. I still have 42+ inches between the island and the two walls (one for range and one for refridgeration/upright freezer). Also, I added an addtional wall oven to the island, because I already had the appliance and who doesn't want another oven during the holidays? Most of the lower cabinets are drawers, and I have 10' ceilings with the top "display" cabinets, but the 42" functional cabinets seem SO HUGE. I'm looking at pull downs for the tops because I'm 5'3" and can barely reach the second shelf! Thoughts?
They definitely can feel tall. My wife is also on the shorter side and we have a stepstool in the kitchen to get to the higher shelves. I find it important to consider what gets placed on each shelf. We have our contents arranged from most used to least used (bottom shelf to top). This minimizes the amount of time we are reaching for the stepstool.
Gorgeous💙
Totally disagree on #1. I love my open shelves and the BEST use for them is everyday dishes! That way they're constantly being used & washed, and never get dusty. A quick wipe now and then when unloading the dishwasher and I never have to "clean" them at all! Otoh, if you put your fancy stuff on there that you never use, it's a total dust magnet.
How many dishes are on their? Unless you use all of them then dust surely builds up? But I suppose you can clean the unused ones every so often
@@UnseenSpirit I have a variety... 4-8 pieces of each type of plate (small, medium, large), and bowl (small, medium, large). Glasses, 3-4 each of multiple styles. I take the top ones to use, some for serving some for eating, and put them away underneath. I've never had any of them be dusty, except maybe a pitcher or platter from the top shelf. If you're not using them and they get dusty, I'd seriously consider decluttering some dishes!
Most people's everyday dishes are not really "display worthy" If you know what I mean. Out of all the things I'd want to display in a kitchen my $35 dollar set of Walmart plates really isn't one of them. Open shelves look really nice when done correctly, but they are objectively less practical and more high maintenance .
@@hillary96renteria82 But why not use dishes that you love every day? I have fiesta ware, not expensive, but they being me joy when I look at their bright colors! Much moreso than a closed up box wood.
@@BethKiesel3n1 i don’t really care about dishes really. A plain plate is good enough for me, just not something I want to display as decor. I have zero desire to throw away a perfectly good set and buy another one, just because it’s not “cute”
Do you have a tutorial for your drawer front to 6" filler cabinet hack at 3:54 minutes in? I am looking for something just like that, but not sure what to do for the box. Just build out a 6" box and use glue edge banding or paint to match the ikea boxes? Also, is that a piano hinge or a special hinge?
Hi Carla- I don't have a video on it unfortunately, but let me try and walk you through it. I use the two cabinets on either side of the opening as my main structure. To color match, I use IKEA's filler panels to "line" the interior of the hidden cabinet. This will give you the opportunity to have all finished edges facing forward. Because I build my own toe-kicks, I also make sure they continue under this hidden cabinet, giving me a place for an actual base. Finally, I have used both a piano hinge as well as IKEA hinges (Kreg hinge jig to make the holes). However, the piano hinge is definitely the simpler system and you can't tell the difference once complete. To open and close, I have a magnetic style latch on the inside (this is the only time you will ever see me without cabinet hardware haha!). Was that clear..ish?
flooring. cabinetry. backsplash. countertops. what should we pick first? please advise
Love all your advice…except one….as a 25 year appliance sales and kitchen design expert I really feel the cabinet depth refrigerator is way too small for the high price you pay.for the look. Now, if you don’t cook and have lots of cash to throw away go for it. There is a way to get the built in look by putting in deeper cabinets surrounding the frig. Then putting in a panel on both sides that match the depth from the top down,horizontally speaking.that way you get the look and a bigger frig too. The thing that would keep this plan from working is where the frig doors open. If they hit a dishwasher, or oven or cabinet then back to another plan.
Thanks! There are lots of ways to make a standard depth fridge work, most of them just require sacrifice. Just like a counter depth fridge also requires sacrifice. Our family of 5 cooks A LOT and we have a counter depth fridge (only 33" wide as well). It works well for us, but may not for others.
I like my counter depth fridge because the volume is wide instead of deep. Therefore there's more room for more things up from instead deep behind everything else.
@@josephsweeney9639 I completely agree with this. We never find ourselves digging to the back. Almost everything is easily accessible side by side.
Beware the fun or trendy choice in colour schemes.
I currently have about the worlds worst kitchen that looks great in photos.
Dark counter tops and splash backs do not a good working environment make.
I'm going with blue pearl Medium-dark blue, but very sparkly) for the countertops, but a contrasting lighter-color granite called blue eyes (light grey with iridescent very bright blue crystals that show when the light catches them at the right angles), sort of cream-color cabinets, and bold colors (mostly red) for the countertop appliances. That KitchenAid mixer and Dash toaster will never get lost in the shuffle.
@@5610winston . There’s little natural light in my kitchen and without cutting the roof for a skylight no way to get any.
So I have fitted a number of led baton lights under the wall cabinets and other places and need to turn them all on if I want to see anything because I have a blue flecked granite laminate bench top and a gloss black splash back.
As soon as I decide what to replace it all with it’s gone.
I'm going for light colors, leaning toward light gray and a tulip-cream white with blue pearl granite for the countertops, and bright, bold colors for the small appliances and enamel cookware. Definitely using full-height to the cabinet granite backsplashes for ease of cleaning.
You can keep the grout lines and ridged cabinet doors.
I just found your channel and am binge watching. There are so many helpful nuggets. Thank you! I noticed in a clip shown in this video, a kitchen with a pitched/angled ceiling is shown. That’s the problem I’m trying to figure out now. The one kitchen wall we have available for cabinets has a ceiling that is at a very noticeable (borderline steep) angle, how does one design cabinets around that? The builder (20-ish yrs ago) just installed them straight across leaving a gap so that one side has a lot of wasted space all the way to the higher ceiling side where there’s a ton of wasted space… But I think there must be a better way. I can’t seem to figure out what phrase to even Google search answers to this dilemma.
Im glad to hear it, enjoy! Pitched/sloped ceilings can be a challenge. Feel free to shoot me an email if you want to chat about it in more depth!
@@hsdesignstudio Ok, will do! Thank you!
In Virginia (at least where I am), you have to have electric in your island by code! Great video
Thanks! And yes, fixed islands do require electrical by code. What I meant was this can be skirted by including a movable island.
Couple more things I think need more consideration: the social aspect of kitchens that are open to other living spaces. Cooktops and or sinks which face the dining or living areas. This allows the “cook” to chat freely with family and guests. The other is common areas. Consider the items like the fridge and garbage bins which folk might want to access while someone is busy with sharp knives or fragile items. If these are put near the edge of the kitchen the space is more people friendly too. Also, the fewer corner cabinets the easier it is to use all the storage space.
Those are definitely good points, but not what I would call mistakes if done otherwise. Fridges naturally make their way to the edge of spaces simply due to size and depth. I'm not a fan of cooktops or sinks facing common areas, because we don't typically sit in front of these for extended periods when we have guests. They also make for extra challenges when it comes to ventilation and plumbing, and can unnecessarily drive up reno costs. That being said, there are times when it makes sense. Like everything with design, it ultimately comes down to the individual using the kitchen and the space available.
I have 36” around my island on the plans. Our kitchen was small so it was that or no island and honestly that just wasn’t an option for us since our top demand was more prep/counter space. Luckily it’s just on two sides since our cabinets are L shaped. The rest is pretty open. I think writing down your top priorities during a remodel is so important! That way every single decision you can go back to that list and ask, does the added cost of this meet my priority? Our designer suggested that and it’s been a lifesaver for making hard choices!
It's a great tip! Keeps you on task and the budget within reason!
Thank you for the useful idea! Especially, I like the small space saver from ikea. What is the name ? I really need one.but I can't find ikea's web site.
Which one in particular are you referencing? Time stamp? I'd love to point you in the right direction if I can.
3:56 is the time stamp for what they are asking about
@@t.beatty3103 thank you for directing me there! That is a small custom cabinet I designed to take advantage of skinny spaces. You can read about it here: www.thehomestud.com/hidden-ikea-storage-cabinet/
If you use custom cabinet makers, this is an easy add on. With IKEA or other RTA cabinets, it requires a little creativity.
Added a link down below 👍
Love the black globe style lights in the white kitchen (2:49 in to the video). Do you know where I could purchase them?
I wish I did, sorry. They are quite cool!
Where I live, code requires electric outlets in kitchen islands if they're stationary.
You can only omit the outlets if you put the island on wheels!
Yup, that’s the code pretty well everywhere
I would like to have my dropped grid with plastic panels & hidden 48" florescent lights into a raised closed ceiling with main lights suspended, so I can reach the bilbs to easily change them.
Im taking down that exact light set up in my kitchen right now. The original builder of my 40 year old house didn’t even bother to finish that space. I had so many holes to patch and even had to put corner beads on the edges, but just taking down that plastic grid thing made my kitchen so much better. I no longer felt like I had to hunch over.
Great tips, but I'm short couldn't reach those cabinets
We have an old house with 91/2 foot ceilings, the old cabinets go the the ceilings, but I hate those upper cabinets, I can’t reach them and it seems silly to pay for storage I don’t use. Thoughts?
There are a few ways to approach this- from a design and aesthetic perspective, finishing cabinets to the ceiling gives off a more visually appealing design. On the other hand, pointless storage makes no functional sense and costs more. Depending on your design, adding simply (and tall) crown moulding can be a nice way to bring the cabinets down further and give a finished look. On the other hand, a more mid-century modern design often looks better with spacing above the wall cabinets in rooms with high ceilings. Sorry that was long winded, but hopefully it helps.
Do you have a video on how to do that "trick" with the sideways drawer for muffin tins and such?
I don't have a video, but I do have a blog post up on our website: www.thehomestud.com/hidden-ikea-storage-cabinet/
@@hsdesignstudio thanks!
You need to look at what Blum shows about the ergonomics of the kitchen. They look at zoning the kitchen instead of looking at the triangle. They came up with that over 20 years ago. Just a FYI.
I'm aware of Blum's kitchen zoning. Its a great way to think about cabinet placement and working areas in one cohesive plan. However, it doesn't make thinking about the working triangle during design irrelevant.
We are building our home from scratch and we have conceptualized having the sink and cooktop on the island with the fridge and an in cabinet stove behind them. I haven't seen that done before, except at a cooking school I used to work with and was wondering what your opinion is on it?
The only thing I would be worried about is work space/spacing between the sink and and cooktop. Typically an island would not be large enough to house both of those elements with enough space to work. I am also not a huge fan of appliances in the island, but that is a larger discussion.
@@hsdesignstudio we are designing the house from scratch so we can create the amount of space that we need. I do worry about having the cooktop on the island.
@@oansheikh8087 its not only space- island size can also dictate countertop selection (seams). Lots to think about. Feel free to reach out at contact@thehomestud.com and we can talk in more detail.
Hi,
I really like that design software that you are using.
Are you allowed to reveal the name of the software?
Sure- its called ProKitchen
I'm having to gut my galley kitchen for some structural repairs and replacing 40-plus-year-old laminate countertops and contractor-grade cabinets, a dead fridge, and covering up some Formica wall paneling that I'm sure seemed like a good idea at the time.
You have a lot of plans for your space. Are you getting started shortly?
@@hsdesignstudio Still planning, and still love the 2:32 herringbone floor in that orientation lengthwise down the flow of traffic. Wish I could find a lighter color LVP than the LIFEPROOF _Biscayne Oak_ herringbone.
My house is about 85 to 90 years old, with beautiful aged red oak hardwood floors except for the kitchen and breakfast/laundry room which has vinyl sheet floor covering.
I like the contrast between the kitchen suite (that's how I'm thinking about it) and the dining room into the rest of the house, but that vinyl sheet is hideous!
in the planning stages of redoing our kitchen (and saving up for a chunk of the cost). we have a updated to 1979 galley kitchen with very little counter top space. We are plumbed in for a dishwasher (just need electrical done), so hopefully that will add some counter space where dirty dishes are currently. Thinking of keeping appliances where they are, electrical wise, and possibly extending storage/counter top space. For a small kitchen, what is the minimum counter space desired?
I dont think there is a minimum (my opinion). I think it comes down to maximizing your layout and getting in as much as you can without artificially forcing it to happen. Also be honest with yourself and how much you need. That will be more for some, and less for others.
So what layout would be good to prevent triggering fire sprinkler in california?
One where nothing burns or smokes and sets it off? That might be more cooking related ha.
What software do you use for kitchen design?
Right now I work in ProKitchen, but that may be changing very soon.
Have you ever raised a countertop height? I would like 1 or 2 more inches higher countertops but thought it would be too weird when I try to resell. Is it too weird? Should I just learn to deal with countertops that always feel too short?
My appartment has a raised kitchen island. I think, it's the easiest (just longer legs below the cabinets) and it's easy to change, if anyone in the future doesn't like it.
@@sarahr.1076 that’s a good idea. My kitchen doesn’t have space for an island, but maybe I can do a similar raised workspace that is reversible.
@@sugoiharris1348 yes, go this route! Try and keep it to a single area if possible. Even better if it is detached from your main countertop area. Raising the entire countertop can also bring in some other headaches such as weird gaps above the dishwasher.
@@hsdesignstudio thanks! I actually found this old cutout of the countertops I have that the previous owner held onto just after you responded. Excellent timing. It’s large enough to cover my stove and protect the glass cooktop (bonus) and I’ve been using it as a workspace. Makes a huge difference to have that extra little bit of height. Glad I found a free and temporary fix.
@@sugoiharris1348 that's awesome! I'm glad you figured out a solution
I know you said that all white kitchens are blah and your personal opinion - but, IMO all white kitchens are a great canvas to add color and give you flexibility of being able to change your decor when you want. I think the reason all white kitchens have become so popular is because for the longest time, trends were to have pops of color in everything - things that are hard to change (i.e. cabinets). When it comes to decor, just do what makes you happy. Who cares about trends!
White kitchens aren't blah, I'm all for white kitchens! They just need some personality somewhere. I'm just not a fan of white on white on white, with some grey.
@@hsdesignstudio yes - totally agree!! So important for personality to show through!
What would you suggest for replacing linoleum floor with a snap in plank flooring? I am just refacing the base cabinets, not replacing them. Would this make a too noticeable/weird difference in workable countertop height?
You will almost be guaranteed not to notice it depending on the type of flooring! Sorry for the late reply, this comment seemed to have escaped me. As long as you don't go with the ultra thick laminate options out there, anything in the 4-8mm thick range will be largely unnoticeable. Just remember to adjust your range feet so it doesn't sit to high above the countertop.
I like these tips!
Cabinets height question....Do you still recommend up to the ceiling cabinets for a petite person 5' 2" or less? Are there any options? Especially when the ceilings are high to begin with. Thanks
I'm short and I prefer not having upper cabinets but instead use space saving hacks for the lower cabinets and pantry, and I avoid having more things that I can store (a bit difficult 😅)
I'm 5'6 but it's still an issue. I too have 10' ceilings but it was the same in my last kitchen...8' ceilings with a bulkhead. I hated it!
I prefer to remove all the upper cabinets and use open shelving. If you have the wall space, a single long shelf on each wall would do. Sadly I don't have the wall space and so need at least 2, probably 3 upper shelves. Many people store their dishes in lower drawer stacks, so the need for upper cabinetry is gone (unless you have a very small kitchen). I don't like cabinets that stop short (dust magnets) , and I think the "all the way to the ceiling" look is heavy, and just a way for designers to make extra money. Open up the walls, it'll look so much lighter! Add some art or decorative items, wallpaper or paint, or even kitchen utensils/pots can hang on the wall at a good level for you to reach.
One word: soffits.
My wife and I split cooking 50/50. She is 5'4", and i'm 6'1" I have no problem with stuff being up high, she doesn't like it. But it works great for stuff that is not used a whole lot. Logical thing to do in a kitchen with tall cabinets would be a step stool.
thoughts on dish drying racks and over island storage pots pans etc?
I can see where they have their place, but like open shelving I'm not a big fan of daily use items out in the open, especially dishware. I steer clear of pot racks as well.
Instead of getting a new fridge, get as big of a fridge as you want and recess it into the wall?? Something that works for me!!!
It still boggles my mind how many kitchen designs make almost no consideration to lighting placement, especially when it comes to task lighting. I rented a recently renovated place which only had a 3-light track light in the middle of the ceiling. It was fine for lightning the general area, but the track lights casted an awful shadow wherever you stood anywhere along the perimeter countertop.
I brought it up to property management as an FYI for future renovations, and they looked at me like I was from outer space, only replying with, "You know you can adjust the track lighting, right?", which does absolutely no good if the actual track is behind you in the center of the room. It makes me wonder if any actual designers are consulted with these renovations, or if it's just a random person with no experience making design choices in an email before hitting 'send' and moving on to other things.
What software do you use? Pls advise
I use ProKitchen Software
Is it better to have a kitchen sink in the island or on the counter space?
This largely depends on the kitchen space and personal preference. There are pros and cons to both options.
My two cents:. Our sink is on our island. Our dining room table is just a few feet from the island. We find that it's great because you can easily talk with family or guests at the table while you prep dinner, make cocktails or do the dishes afterwards. Even when making dinner I find we spend more time looking outwards from the sink area than from the stove area. Also if you put a cooktop on an island you have to consider how to vent it which will likely block sight lines. The biggest drawback with a sink at island can be the cost of bringing the plumbing there.
There’s no coffee in the mug 🥴
Thanks for the useful info though 😉
What would you recommend if your ceiling is 9 feet tall. What type of wall cabinet will I need?
This really depends on the design or style of the kitchen you are trying to create. Sometimes it is better to run the cabinetry to the ceiling with 40+” cabinets, other times it makes more sense to keep them lower and streamlined.
@@hsdesignstudio I have the same situation and have cabinets purchased already (I found some takeouts from a interior designers studio and saved some money - cabinets are expensive!) my dilemma is that I have 9’ ceilings, 36” counters and the cabinets I have are 42”(upper cabinets) + 15” (top display cabinets that go on top of the 42” cabinets).
I would like to use the 42” and 15” upper cabinets together but with the 108”(9ft) -36” (counter) - 42” - 15” = 15” gap between the counter and upper cabinets.
You shoot for 18” for the gap between the counter and the upper cabinets.Would it be a horrible idea if I only had a 15” gap?
If I didn’t use the very top section of the upper 15” cabinet I could position the 42” cabinets at any height on the wall but then I would have about a 12” or 10” gap inbetween the top of the cabinets and ceiling.
What would you recommend?
Option 1: Cabinets all the way to the ceiling and a 15” gap between the counter and uppers?
Option 2: Ditch the 15” top cabinet section and only use the 42” section of the uppers: this would allow me to make a 18” gap between the counter and upper but would leave me with an awkward 12” gap between the uppers and ceiling.
If I have stone walls in my kitchen, do I need a backsplash or can I just seal the stone?
That is a great question. And to be honest I am not sure, it's not something I have ever encountered. However, I'd venture to guess it all comes down to porousity and cleanability. It if is really rough and porous, you may want to consider at least a small backsplash. Sorry to not be of more help..
Hi, I'm 5' tall. So I lowered the height of my upper cabinet near the sink so I could access the dish rack installed in it for storing dishes. But that has left just 6 inches space left below it. The countertop space underneath the cabinet seems useless now.What do I do ?
6 inches of space between the countertop and the cabinet??
@@hsdesignstudio yes.
@@bushrajamal7386 There isn't much of an option at this point unfortunately. The easiest possible solution is probably to set it on the countertop, and then add a new cabinet above to take advantage of the old space. However, it's hard to give perfect advice without examining the kitchen and situation.
If You put as much function in the rest of the house , I sure would love
to see a walk & talk through video !!!!
I'm thinking about building a small
retirement house for My " DREAM KILLER " and Myself ..., but I can't
find one on youtube that is functional ( well I did find one , I really liked ... but ... the " DREAM KILLER " ... lets just leave it at that )
I own 5ac ( paid for ) . The house
( IF I build ) will by necessity be 100% off grid & w/as much propane
appliances as possible .
Are You up for a design challenge ?
If I give You the measurements of
what I already have , to put in the
house , can You design a house to fit ? I have a lot of ideas I think would make this house affordable
( at least by today's standards ) , and
above all , functional & cozy ( both warm AND cool !
Hey- shoot me an email at contact@thehomestud.com and we can have a more detailed discussion about your project!
Here’s a design mistake: your computer desk is too high and will cause discomfort while typing
Thanks for your expert opinion
Lol I was thinking the chair was to short
Can we get an update
Or…he lowered the chair for the video to accommodate camera angles.
The question is not do you want power on the island, it is absolutely required by code.
If it is a fixed island, yes you are absolutely correct. However, that is not the case if it is 'moveable' in any way. I have several clients who have gone with an extra large butcher block style island with no cabinetry underneath, specifically to avoid the mandatory outlets.
countertop height should really be chosen to match the individual - i was stuck for years cooking in a kitchen with countertops just 1-2 inches too low, and it was a nightmare! standing slightly hunched over during meal prep will give you fierce backpain in no time and suck all the joy out of cooking. a good kitchen studio will take your measurements and adjust the height of the contertop (and the upper cabinets!) accordingly
Yes, I agree there should be some modification when necessary. However, it can only be done to a certain extent. For example, if you want a standard dishwasher under the countertop. The same goes with the height of wall cabinets- your ceiling height plays an important role.
One of my pet peeves are drawers that are left partially open because they tend to leave enough opening to allow dripping liquid into the contents. Is there a drawer design that automatically fully closes when it's left partially open?
Yes, check into soft closing drawers, they automatically close once moved past a certain point
white, grey. white, grey. Awesome👍
What if your L shape kitchen walls aren’t 90 degrees? My kitchen walls have an awkward 110° which I don’t know what to do in that corner to maximize cabinet space
That is an awkward angle! I'd have to take a look at the space as a whole and how the appliances/rest of kitchen are laid out. However, I think you would treat one side rather normally and then get creative with the other, making a somewhat custom cabinet to fit the off angle.
I'm watching this at x2, wishing there's a x3.
Sorry to bore you for 11 minutes...I guess only five and a half.
4:08 one question, for the kitchen wall cabinets. Do you just rest them on top of your existing kitchen cabinets or do you mount them?
It really depends on the space. For the ones in the video (because they aren't carrying much weight) they are resting on top of the wall cabinets and held in place with screws from below. In the case of larger shelving, I create a separate attachment system so the cabinetry below is not carrying the extra weight.
@@hsdesignstudio ohhh thanks so much for your reply!! I might have to mount them then, probably for storage of stuff that we don't use every day.
@@hsdesignstudio you definitely have to account for weight when designing any layout.
Finally, a fact-filled design video for the pragmatists out here.
Thanks for watching 👍
Electric and plumbing are not boring ,essential to a kitchen. Plan that first and cabinets and appliances will be a Breeze!
It shouldn't be planned first, it should be installed first. I plan my electrical and plumbing around cabinets, not the other way around.
This makes me want to run around my kitchen with a tape measure…. Brb
I have 9” (108”) ceilings and have cabinets purchased already (I found some takeouts from a interior designers studio and saved some money - cabinets are expensive!) my dilemma is that I have 9’ ceilings, 36” counters and the cabinets I have are 42”(upper cabinets) + 15” (top display cabinets that go on top of the 42” cabinets).
I would like to use the 42” and 15” upper cabinets together but with the 108”(9ft) -36” (counter) - 42” - 15” = 15” gap between the counter and upper cabinets.
You recommend shooting for an 18” for the gap between the counter and the upper cabinets. Would it be a horrible idea if I only had a 15” gap?
If I didn’t use the very top section of the upper 15” cabinet I could position the 42” cabinets at any height on the wall but then I would have about a 12” gap inbetween the top of the cabinets and ceiling.
What would you recommend?
Option 1: Cabinets all the way to the ceiling and a 15” gap between the counter and uppers?
Option 2: Ditch the 15” top cabinet section and only use the 42” section of the uppers: this would allow me to make a 18” gap between the counter and upper but would leave me with an awkward 12” gap between the uppers and ceiling.
Thanks in advance for your input!
I wouldn't want a 15" gap above my countertops- that's my opinion though and some may disagree. I also don't like to have cabinet doors flush to the ceiling...
22" +36" = 58 to bottom shelf of wall cabinets. Invest tons of money to have to use a step ladder to grab cups and dishes, functionality!
Or have a house where there isn't a single person shorter than 6' tall. It's all about designing for the person. I'm not saying to do it in every kitchen, that's why there is a range. It also depends on the kitchen.
According to electrical code, islands are required to have an outlet, sometimes multiple, depending on size. That's enough to make me not want one since I'm on a concrete slab.
Totally fair. Most houses built around me have basements, making electrical easy to run to an island. Even with a cement pad, adding electrical just requires a little extra planning.
We are trying to figure this out as well...on concrete, redoing kitchen with island and quartz waterfall edge. Area has power currently (we're reshaping the current island and re-tiling the floor) but not sure where to place outlets. I hate those popups and refuse to cut into the waterfall :/
@@BethKiesel3n1 Oh yeah, definitely wouldn't want to cut into quartz for an outlet. Could you put the outlets on the backside of the cabinets? Or do you have cabinets on both sides? Could you hide the outlets inside the cabinets? I don't know the electrical code exactly, but it essentially comes down to having to be able to reach an outlet with a 2 foot long cord, because that's basically what all small appliances have. On a countertop that means an outlet every 4 feet max.
@@andrewbrown784 we have had these same ideas... there will be seating, but no cabinets on the back of the island. We're planning on doing something decorative there, maybe large format tiles. So there's a 15" overhang there anyway. We can do outlet strips underneath for the people sitting on the island I guess? Inside cabinets/drawers is an option, but not sure if it's to code. We even considered toe kick but again, too long Argh 😫
What software is this ?
This is all done in ProKitchen software
:( me wanting an island.. and hes basically telling me no. but but... if I knock down that wall... :( can i get an island?
Forcing an island into the space is never worth it! There are always alternative ways to create the extra countertop space and storage. Knocking down a wall, now that's a different story!
In the USA, if it's a stationary island, you must have outlets in it.
Yes, it's the same in most places. However, as I said in other comments you can skirt the rules with non-fixed islands. I should have been more clear in the vid!
Thank you, that's true. I call my kitchen my office because I'm cooking and baking so much. Our 80's recessed florescent bulbs need upgrading. Our base cabinet installation is lopsided. The cabinets are too high by an inch and a half on the right side.
Sounds like you are ready for a remodel!
Definitely sounds like a renovation is in order.