REPRODUCING A CRANK HANDLE ON ALL THREAD
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- This is a little project I did back in October to replace a cheap plastic handle by using a lathe compound crank that had an existing 3/8" diameter hole. I used the threaded rod like a core but it actually becomes a screw and handle all in one.#crank #handle#castiron
That turned out a lot better than I expected! 👍
Thankyou👍
That came out really nice.
Thanks Mike👌
Nice handle Clarke. Looks great.
Thanks Randy👍
You are very talented my friend, well done!!!
Thanks Ray!!👍
Nice can't wait till I can do this! May God Bless you and your family Greatly
Thanks and Happy New Year
Nice work
Thanks Mike!
VERY CLEVER
Excellent!
Love the technique and the music! Thanks for sharing... Fred
Thanks Fred👍
Great job ! Like new trade mark!
Thanks Brian!
Nice! 👍🏼
Thanks Yuchol!
Very neat. Is the handle likely to come loose from the threaded rod? If it does, some Loctite would fix it. Did you consider drilling a hole through the end of the rod to provide a key? I really enjoy watching your techniques.
Thanks, there is so much compression from the iron shrinkage around the all thread I beleive it would twist the rod into before it would unscrew. Honestly, if the rod diameter had been larger I think the handle would have broken as it cooled
Top self my friend 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks!
Wow.
Have you tried using refractory coatings like Boron nitride on the threads to keep the part from having an interference like fit with the threads?
I understand cast in place threads are a challenge, and there are some tricks to it.
I have a lathe nut for an old artisan lathe which I might try doing a cast in place threading; but I haven't figured out the right setup for proper cast in place threading using the lead screw.
The few people I've seen try it, failed to get the right coating or the right thickness and they destroyed the threads trying to get the cast nut off.
Actually I was fusing this. I don't know that it's possible to pour iron around a thread and expect it to screw out because if the shrinkage. I do have both nitride but I only coat tooling with it.
That's a tricky puzzle for sure! Locking onto a thread is one thing, but matching a thread in a casting and maintaining a suitable clearance for movement seems almost impossible. Would sooting up the threads with acetylene soot work? But would it be enough to deal with the shrinkage during cooling? What would happen if you heated up the soot coated threads to cherry red just prior to closing the mold and pouring?
Can you make a sand core out of super fine sand to replicate the threads?
What if you custom made a threaded rod just big enough to deal with the shrinkage and clearance tolerances and then coated it with soot?
Toe tapping stuff! Pity it had to end. :(
Came out well what is it for?
Just had to break up the boredom and do something off the wall while getting other molds done
Watched it twice but I do not understand how the mold was made.
I just made a false cope to establish the parting line
Please understand that I am not a molder but I knew there was something tricky going on. Thanks for your response. I consider this, pretty electric work and all trades to be art not the vile things that are taught in an art class where you get to express yourself.
Thank you
That turned out nice. I just stumbled upon this guy making what he says is a new alloy called Cast Iron Bronze. His video is ruclips.net/video/LMTfZj7vC-4/видео.html. It's pretty cool looking and supposedly really hard. If they can figure out how to make it a bit thinner, it might be good to try sand casting. If nothing else, it would make a cool new metal to machine into parts.