I had Phil adjust the original suspension and have steel braided brake lines installed. Additional original GR strut bar and Whiteline torque arm insert. Finally, the lower strut comes in at the front. Change from Michelin to Goodyear Eagle F1 Supersport is already done. In short, the car has changed massively and is an absolute weapon on the road, which on some trips shows me my limits and not the other way around. Engine tuning is pointless for pure road use, as are exhaust, intake and whatever just wasted money. The car can do more with little money than most drivers are even able to use. Thanks to Phil for his honest advice and for not putting money first, but customer satisfaction. A personal conversation with him saves a lot of money and increases the grin. Keep it up!
So good to hear about pragmatic, low expenses upgrades, thanks. Tell me again the brand of the phone holder please. And I will definitely invest in the wheel alignment. Difficult to find a reliable outfit.
Great video - after my first proper day recently I think I agree with everything mentioned. I had new tyres fitted and the shop let me down on the alignment booking so I thought I'd see how it went...I suspect I was loosing a lot of time in the corners due to not having this done, I wouldn't have been the quickest there by some margin but things felt off! Also running stock sized wheels with very good tyres vs cars on wider wheels with semi slicks was eye opening.
Thanks for the tips Phil, On the GRY Circuit Pack with Std Sport Suspension, I've already installed steel braided brake lines, Endless brake pads, and will order the Excentric Powerflex Camber bolts. Phil, Can you kindly share the Alignment setup you use for Fast Road use in Switzerland, front and rear? Your subscriber and I would really appreciate it . Valley Welsh roads here aren't much different. I ind the standard factory alignment causes increased inner tire wear on the front PS4S!
Hi Not sure if my alignment will help you anything since it‘s for racing. But i‘d go for about -3 degree camber at the front, about -2 at the rear. Slight toe out at the front and slight toe in at the rear.
Hey Phil, great video. I do have one question tho. In one of your videos ("Toyota GR Yaris - Top Mount Kit, and how to get more camber.") you talked about installing the DNA-Racing top mount kit to get more than -3 degree camber. You also talked about (at minute 4:25) that for this degree of camber you "... i needed a solution which aren't the camber bolts and that's these top mounts.". Does that mean you only use the DNA-Racing top mounts now and use them with the Toyota OEM stock camber bolts or that you still use a combination of both? And if so, which camber bolts do you use exactly (Powerflex as said in the video?) with the DNA-Racing top mount kit because I plan to do the same to my car later down the road. Thank you very much!
100% agree with you, you are very honest and competent. For water cooling I also changed the std liquid and I’m using Evans liquid with very good result
@@RotheliRacing can you be more detailed? I’m using this product on all my cars since ten years and I registered only benefits. Also in racing application I found a lot of improvements. I will appreciate your advices. Ciao Nicola
@@nicolaciniero1765 we had huge temperature and pressure issues with our 750hp EVO when we changed to EVANS. Once we flushed everything out and got back to normal coolant, problems where gone.
Great video! Advice needed: Brake pads upgrade, what else would be good to do (mit CH-zulassung)? Front pads are gone within 12k km fast road use and discs become glowing red some nights.
I‘m in holidays this week. Please drop me an email: phil@roetheli-racing.ch And i‘ll get back to you after i‘m back. Or check out our online shop: www.roetheli-racing.ch
I cannot aggree with changing the brake pads. I rather change the brake pads more often than changing the brake discs. I consider myself a really fast daily driver and been to hockenheimring once, several drift events, and a rally school on gravel. My brake pads lasted until about 40000km. Then i switched to endless pads and havent been on track since then. Now im at about 50000km and strangely the endless pads are almost gone again and even worse now i will have to change my discs at the next garage service at 60000. I will change back to the stock brake pads
@rotheli Racing, I'll have to recheck my display is indicated Celsius and not Fahrenheit, but after you noted oil temps of 127-128 during racing I'm concerned! My GRC is stock, I have consistent temps after startup between 82-84 degrees C in 27-32 degree C ambient temps without pushing the car. This seems high given your notes. I heard of high temps with the GRY and even the GRC, but this is really high.
Oh you‘ll reach easy over 120 degree C during summer even on the Autobahn or going up hills. That‘s why the Oil Cooler was the first part we manufactured.
Toyota must recognize this man as a national treasure
Thank you. 😊
I had Phil adjust the original suspension and have steel braided brake lines installed. Additional original GR strut bar and Whiteline torque arm insert. Finally, the lower strut comes in at the front. Change from Michelin to Goodyear Eagle F1 Supersport is already done. In short, the car has changed massively and is an absolute weapon on the road, which on some trips shows me my limits and not the other way around. Engine tuning is pointless for pure road use, as are exhaust, intake and whatever just wasted money. The car can do more with little money than most drivers are even able to use. Thanks to Phil for his honest advice and for not putting money first, but customer satisfaction. A personal conversation with him saves a lot of money and increases the grin. Keep it up!
Glad to hear and happy to see you again. 😉
Great vid of upgrade tips,.. many thanks for this!
Very welcome. 😃
wegen solchen Videos habe ich diesen Kanal abonniert ❤
Das freut mich. 😁
So good to hear about pragmatic, low expenses upgrades, thanks. Tell me again the brand of the phone holder please. And I will definitely invest in the wheel alignment. Difficult to find a reliable outfit.
It‘s Brodit.
Great video - after my first proper day recently I think I agree with everything mentioned. I had new tyres fitted and the shop let me down on the alignment booking so I thought I'd see how it went...I suspect I was loosing a lot of time in the corners due to not having this done, I wouldn't have been the quickest there by some margin but things felt off!
Also running stock sized wheels with very good tyres vs cars on wider wheels with semi slicks was eye opening.
Yeah. It‘s the small things that can make a huge difference.
@@RotheliRacing Phil, Can you share the Alignment setup you recommend for Fast Road use, front and rear?
@@ronniet906
So thats just a rough orientation:
-3 camber front
-2 camber rear
Slight toe out front
Slight toe in rear
@@RotheliRacing Brilliant, Much appreciated Phil. Is Slight TOE 1/8, 1/4 or 1/2 a degree?
@@ronniet906 slight toe is 0.1-0.2mm
thanks for the GR Yaris guides
You‘re welcome. 😉
Danke, lieber Phil
Immer wieder gern. 😉
Thanks for the tips Phil, On the GRY Circuit Pack with Std Sport Suspension, I've already installed steel braided brake lines, Endless brake pads, and will order the Excentric Powerflex Camber bolts.
Phil, Can you kindly share the Alignment setup you use for Fast Road use in Switzerland, front and rear?
Your subscriber and I would really appreciate it . Valley Welsh roads here aren't much different. I ind the standard factory alignment causes increased inner tire wear on the front PS4S!
Hi
Not sure if my alignment will help you anything since it‘s for racing.
But i‘d go for about -3 degree camber at the front, about -2 at the rear.
Slight toe out at the front and slight toe in at the rear.
Hey Phil, great video.
I do have one question tho.
In one of your videos ("Toyota GR Yaris - Top Mount Kit, and how to get more camber.") you talked about installing the DNA-Racing top mount kit to get more than -3 degree camber.
You also talked about (at minute 4:25) that for this degree of camber you "... i needed a solution which aren't the camber bolts and that's these top mounts.".
Does that mean you only use the DNA-Racing top mounts now and use them with the Toyota OEM stock camber bolts or that you still use a combination of both? And if so, which camber bolts do you use exactly (Powerflex as said in the video?) with the DNA-Racing top mount kit because I plan to do the same to my car later down the road.
Thank you very much!
Hi
Once i switched to the Top Plates, i didn’t use Camber Bolts anymore.
@@RotheliRacing Thank you very much! :) Have a great week!
100% agree with you, you are very honest and competent. For water cooling I also changed the std liquid and I’m using Evans liquid with very good result
Had mixed results with Evans in the past to be honest…
@@RotheliRacing can you be more detailed? I’m using this product on all my cars since ten years and I registered only benefits. Also in racing application I found a lot of improvements. I will appreciate your advices. Ciao Nicola
@@nicolaciniero1765 we had huge temperature and pressure issues with our 750hp EVO when we changed to EVANS.
Once we flushed everything out and got back to normal coolant, problems where gone.
@@RotheliRacing ok got it. Max hp in my Porsche was 450, never experienced higher output. Tks a lot for the advices
Great video! Advice needed:
Brake pads upgrade, what else would be good to do (mit CH-zulassung)?
Front pads are gone within 12k km fast road use and discs become glowing red some nights.
I‘m in holidays this week.
Please drop me an email:
phil@roetheli-racing.ch
And i‘ll get back to you after i‘m back.
Or check out our online shop:
www.roetheli-racing.ch
I cannot aggree with changing the brake pads. I rather change the brake pads more often than changing the brake discs. I consider myself a really fast daily driver and been to hockenheimring once, several drift events, and a rally school on gravel. My brake pads lasted until about 40000km. Then i switched to endless pads and havent been on track since then. Now im at about 50000km and strangely the endless pads are almost gone again and even worse now i will have to change my discs at the next garage service at 60000. I will change back to the stock brake pads
@rotheli Racing, I'll have to recheck my display is indicated Celsius and not Fahrenheit, but after you noted oil temps of 127-128 during racing I'm concerned! My GRC is stock, I have consistent temps after startup between 82-84 degrees C in 27-32 degree C ambient temps without pushing the car. This seems high given your notes. I heard of high temps with the GRY and even the GRC, but this is really high.
Oh you‘ll reach easy over 120 degree C during summer even on the Autobahn or going up hills.
That‘s why the Oil Cooler was the first part we manufactured.
@@RotheliRacing ahh I see, ok thank you for your reply and point.
you don't recommend changing the bushings?
That would be one of the last things i‘d change.
What panel filter would you use . If cant afford eventuri
Stock one. ;-)
Links to all the recommendations please
Just look in my Online Shop.