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Those two _weren't_ friends but _did_ for each other the kind of things that usually one asociates friends with. There's even a word for that in some languages.
@@notfeedynotlazyan acquaintance is the word you are looking for. Not friends. Not enemies. Often do things for each other as friends would. The word business often becomes before the word acquaintance because usually they are found at your work place....
@@danielkirby8355 It's not really the same thing, though. The explosive was in the control and supervision of the bomb squad the whole time, and it was gone at the end. I assume you don't want to have your gun only used under the supervision of authorities and confiscated or destroyed after you're done using it? Also, you can chop a barrel, you just need to keep the length 18 or more inches, or get a permit for shorter.
For anyone who doesn't want to click. One trick with the traditional way to make a bow is which lace you go "over" with when you first knot your laces, like which hand you lead with. If you do it the wrong way, your bow will be prone to twisting sideways and coming loose. If you've ever had that happen, just be mindful, and try to put the other lace "over" as you start tying your knot. When they match, it holds straighter and tighter.
"The Alameda County bomb squad is one of the most experienced bomb squads in the world because of the 15 years of crap Mythbusters threw at them" I loudly laughed out loud at that one
The European EOD teams being the most experienced given they've spent the last 80 years dealing with the thousands of tons of unexploded ordinance from WW2
@@JaenEngineering not necessarily, those WWII UXOs are relatively the same and once you delta with each type, your not getting the same creative new experience. Sure repetitive reps and sets are good, but they only go so far at increase your overall experience.
I expect that their explosive forensics teams also had a blast going over the sites. I hope that they were kept in the dark so that they could analyze this with a clear mind. "I found something, It looks like it could have been part of a concrete mixer?!"
They joked late in the show that Jamie doesn't have any facial expressions aside from his poker face, but he did laugh almost out of control on camera, when Adam revisited the Goldfinger myth and Sanjay took his temperature through rectal probe.
With airbrushing miniatures, I've always advocated for practicing your aim with the primer. You're going to cover the whole thing anyway, why not get some practice in at the same time, doesnt matter if you miss!
Something I remember from the instruction sheet that came with my first airbrush: Take a sheet of paper and randomly put dots on it with a pencil. The go back over it using your airbrush and place dots of paint over the pencil dots. A few sheets done like that and you'll have a pretty good grasp of where to aim the airbrush to put paint exactly where you want it. Save these sheets, and when they're dry you can reuse them for the next exercise. Exercise 2: Connect the dots. Just like it sounds, paint lines in between the dots you painted earlier. Practice till you can smoothly paint straight lines, then repeat painting curved lines. Draw a radial pattern of dots on a clean sheet and paint spider webs using straight lines and curved lines. Repeat these exercises a few times and you should have a reasonable level of control and can start learning how to vary line widths and other techniques. It's also good practice when you haven't airbrushed anything in a while, and can be useful when trying to diagnose problems with an airbrush.
My best tip for those new to airbrushing: You simply *CANNOT* be too thorough when cleaning it after use... The tiniest bit of old paint floating around in the system can be enough to throw it out of whack.
Yup. A good focused torch/light to shine into the cavities, and a jewellers eyepiece/loop can be very handy, and if you ever use a metallic or similar through the brush expect cleaning to take a lot longer and that you'll need to repeat it no matter how thorough you think you've been. Also never trust a friend to clean it properly even if they're doing it in your presence (I've done that and found a week later the brush was bunged up because they'd missed something because they thought it looked clean). Also a dedicated cleaning area with some small pots/tattooist style paint cups with lids so if needed you can leave the nozzle and end caps in cleaner to soak. I use a bit of packing foam (the stuff they use for PC cases that is sort of honeycomb) with a couple of V grooves cut from one end to the other to sit the needles in whilst the rest of the brush is being cleaned, that way you don't have the needles rolling around and they are always in the right (safe) place during cleaning.
@@nilremukAnd an ultasonic cleaner is a godsend for getting it fully clean. Unfortunately, I recently ended up with a destroyed airbrush and compressor system while bouncing around between things to finish one of the more infamous gundam models (RG RX-78-2...) and was getting frustrated with some of the loose parts on the kit, got to the point that I was just gluing them in place, knocked over the brand new bottle of ultra thin that did a lot of damage to the model, its paint job, decals, my airbrush, melted a hole in the cleaning jar, the hose and seals for the brush and other parts such as the cord to plug it in...and it also destroyed my cutting mat and did some major damage to my flooring. On the plus side, there's now a $30 airbrush with battery powered compressor that, while limited, seems like it's going to be a new workhorse for me...
I think it’s just hard to process, because most of us can imagine wanting to be friends with both Adam and Jamie, so it’s strange they aren’t “friends” with each other.
@@dogpotato972 there's a great story Adam mentioned of when Jamie has his employees over for dinner and the second everyone finished eating he had them leave. Jamie just isn't much of a people person like Adam is.
The way Jamie is talked about in past tense and in third person because he rarely engages with the public these days due to his current projects makes it seem like he's no longer with us. It feels a bit weird to me. I wish Jamie interacted with fans a bit more.
That's actually great advice for starting any new technique: practice it on the cheap stuff! And don't forget to document your process! Experience is valuable only if you learn from it. And the best way to learn from it is to review the record of your experiences.
Not necessarily the cheap stuff there, look at reviews and more before because there are a LOT of extremely cheap airbrushes that will drive you mad and get nothing done for you. It's one of look and find some decent cheap ones.
Thank you Adam. I've heard you describe the relationship between you and Jamie as not friends and not even friendly but, clearly you have some love for the time and experiences you shared. That's beautiful.
His advice on the air brushing is spot on, also go to flea markets and look for model kits. I've got shelfs full of kits needing to be built that were $15 each. So not afraid to mess those up.
The advice with me and paint is, keep the paint away from me. Paint for me is merely an ablative coating, if that. ;) Well, save when making rockets, then it's also a small space filler.
Inflation always manages to break my brain. I remember buying not-small model kits new for $10 and it took me a bit to process that $15 is the flea market price now.
But Its true. Imagine asking the "bomb squad" bosses to get to blow up a cement mixer, FOR PRACTICE. Just not going to happen. Wait Myth Busters wants to do that, cool,. now we know what to do. Thanks Myth Busters.
@@robertweldon7909 I'd have paid real money to see their application to the FAA to close the airspace around that range being read at the FAA field office.
For airbrush beginner, be prepared to fail. When I first started airbrushing, I intentionally did the hardest thing I knew to try. Which was airbrushing cheap acrylic craft paint. Dozens of clogs later and I was a master a tearing it down and cleaning it I also got really good at thinning paint to the right consistency. After that, everything else was so easy to shoot. I am by no means a master of the tool, but I am totally comfortable with it, and will grab it without a second thought when I think it will suit my needs.
I really love how you had a mutually beneficial arrangement with the bomb squad. You got free C4, they got valuable experience with weird bomb scenarios.
I'd say good advice for learning any new tools is to practice on something you don't care about ruining first, don't pull out something you've spent 20 hours on 40 steps on, and do something for the first time as step 41.
It's been 25 years since I helped make an deer antler horn knife, I can still remember the smell. It was so bad my friends father used brake cleaner to cover it up so he could use his garage 2 days later. You need an outdoor location far away from your living quarters or a massive exhaust system in a work shop. If you ever had a cavity drilled out and caught a whiff of that smell, well it's that filling the room for days.
It's the exact same smell as cautery in the medical field. My dad (retired RN) stopped dead when he walked into my shop when i was cutting up a giant bone into smaller pieces for my dog, asking what on earth i was doing.
Oh god i can never forget the smell of a classmate making an antler ring in my machining class. Took him 3 days to finish all the rings he made, and the shop smelled like it for the whole week. Then, later, I had to relive that smell when my mom got into making bone broth. Hot bone/keratin is a smell i'd wish on very few people.
I learned to airbrush in college 20+ years ago. I started with a Badger Anthem. My uncle gave me a Paasche VL/S from the 80s when he heard I was learning.
It's wild that this treasure of a man said in that other video that he thought ADHD was "behind him" in his life... his perfectly meandering narrative structure is the language of my people!!!!
Airbrushes have 2 stages. 1st blows air and 2nd lets paint flow Always trigger the 1st stage away from your work once before u spray at your work. That clears any spatter risk
you haven't seen all the episodes then. in the earlier seasons they left in more "drama" and you can see how much they fought. the "chemistry" is just a result of selective editing.
@@ssl3546 I think Jamie really didn't enjoy a lot of the process of making the show and took it out on Adam, who was a more natural star. That said, he definitely did have some great times, so some of the chemistry is real.
@@ssl3546 From what Adam has said, one of the early producers or directors was stirring the pot as well - carrying grudges back and forth to keep the drama going on camera. Once the two of them figured out what was going on and put a stop to it, about S3 or so, things got a lot better, from what I understand. Pretty sure they're friends off camera - at least as far as Adam is concerned. I can't speak for Mr Hyneman, he doesn't show up in my feeds as much.
@@llearch Adam has repeatedly said that they weren't friends, they were very different people who could drive each other crazy, and they did not engage socially by themselves. Jamie (who rarely gives interviews) recently said it wasn't an exaggeration to say that he didn't really like Adam and that they weren't friends. I believe the same article said they were no longer in contact with each other. That said, they both have spoken of their mutual respect for each other as work colleagues. But they weren't friends.
For imitation ivory an option in some cases might be tagua nut. It's a palm nut about the size of a large chicken egg. Usually have a void inside too shaped like a mango pit. But very fun to work with and extremely convincing as ivory. Cons: limited size and shape and it's incredibly hard. You just about need to use metal working tools for it.
For those just learning about it, it also goes by the name "vegetable ivory." I haven't had the chance to use it yet, but I plan to eventually make drawer pulls from it.
@@jeffspaulding9834 You're gonna love it. The stuff is addictive to work with. Since I left that post 2 months ago I've learned one should soak it in warm water overnight. Makes it easier to cut and work with. Not soft by any stretch but less hard at least.
@@omgpix Just rewatched the video. Still not sure what you're talking about. What couldn't he mention on camera? The imitation ivory he has (I believe but may be wrong so fact check me) is a type of acrylic. The artificial ivory aka Ivoryoid I've had in the past was acrylic but I believe they used to make it from celluloid. I've also worked with artificial horn that was also acrylic. Same as the fake Ivory but a different color. The "grain" he's referring to isn't a physical grain like wood has, but a color grain. Striations of darker material throughout the imitation Ivory. You can't tell a difference when working it. It just works like hard plastic. Won't split on you or anything. As a side note about the acrylic, it may be useful to you when working it to heat it up. You can use a hot air gun or a small torch to make it soft and pull\bend\twist it to get weird shapes and grain patterns. Just heat it slowly. Not a lot of room between the temp acrylic softens at and the temp it blisters and combusts at. If you've never heated acrylic before search for "flame polishing acrylic" and start there. Same process, just takes longer if you're trying to heat a big block as opposed to a thin sheet. Also useful once it's been sanded to flame polish it. Much faster than working through the grits.
@@sethcarson5212 I was going to say it's at 9:23 but in pulling up the transcript I realized I may need to get my hearing checked. 9:20 made with a you can't see it on camera 9:23 but it's got a grain to it it's actually 9:25 quite lovely and I believe it polishes
Been using an airbrush for 60 plus years. I advice is forget everything anyone tells you. Just go for it. If you fall in love with the process there is nothing you can’t do. I’ve had professionals ask how did I get a particular Effect using an airbrush. All I can say is I know my instrument and know what can be done. Practice patience are you friends.
If I may add a bit I've learned, not about airbrushing but about art in general: don't be afraid to just play. Even if you haven't seen anyone do something, don't be afraid to try. I've figured out lots of fun things, even after being told it's impossible! See what it can do... ❤
Practice and patience are important, but this statement is flawed. You get the effects because you know different techniques. I know many artists who have much patience and much practice, but lack on many techniques. Art is about knowledge more than anything. *How* to do things is most important. Just giving a person a pencil and paper they wont become a master artist without proper *knowledge.* Same thing with every art and skill. Give a person a welding kit and no matter what without being taught or trained they will not know how to weld.
Many years ago, I worked for a company that made bamboo fly fishing rods. We used a number of exotic materials for the reel seats on some of the more premium models including ivory, mammoth, water buffalo and hippo tooth (this was an absolute nightmare to machine down, kept dulling the bits really quickly). We had good luck with some of the synthetic material (ivory, horn, tortoise) we got from Masecraft Supply Co.
Not sure if it is the same material shown on camera, but knife handle makers have a faux ivory product they use, mostly for ferrules and butt caps, but it is durable enough for use on a kitchen knife handle.
In the piano restoration industry, the favorite synthetic ivory is Elforyn Super Tusk. It's practically indistinguishable from the real thing. They sell it in a few different form factors.
Hi Adam. Thank you so much for sharing all these insights and behind the scene anecdotes and dynamics of the entire team behind mythbusters. It really throws me back in my teen years when I was glued to the TV when a new mythbusters episode aired. I have a quote assigned to me being: 'I saw an episode of mythbusters about this...'.
I worked in a Navy Shipyard and your description of airbrushing was pretty much how we learned to paint ships. Of course we used 100 psi "Bulldog" pump airless systems but the principles were the same.
Before I tried to airbrush a costume, I got some kid's coloring books and airbrushed them. Keep it in the lines! Also having an ultrasonic cleaner tub is game-changing for airbrush cleanup.
The Mythbusters/Banijay Science channels uploading episodes has been a joy to rewatch - but the real treats are the few glimpses of Jamie’s funny and relaxed side! Sometimes he’d even giggle! Also that beret went in the water a few times, that’s clean enough!
Adam should do a challenge where he goes to a Dollar Store buy one of those horrifically bad action figures / toys and make it look like something decent
I wasnt expecting the Airbrush advice, but BOY do I appreciate it! Ive picked up Automotive Wheel Repair in the past year. I have been struggling to do any better than, "Just knowing how" I also dont have anyone to ask for advice. Idlk how to simplify what I want to look for online either. So its been a struggle. This wasnt the world of info, but it was incredibly helpful! As always. whether its 2014 or 2024 Im still learning loads of stuff and in a fun way, Adam! Thank you so much for being part of my learning experience and my childhood!!
To add to the advice for an airbrush: start cheap. A paasche model H can be gotten reasonably inexpensively and many off brands are even cheaper. Learn how to field strip that thing like its your rifle and your life depends on it. Partially so you know how to clean it, partially so you know how it works and how to troubleshoot it. That leads to my next point: clean it. Clean it again. When you think youve got it clean enough, clean it again. And when you arent painting, or storing it away, be ready to clean.
For beginners watch lots of RUclips videos. Not just ones that do what you are thinking of doing, but ones that paint pictures, miniatures, war-game miniatures, everything you can find. the 1st thing you'll see is that there are many ways of getting the same results. Then start watching the ones that use the same medium that you'll do most of your work in. Be it water or solvent based Acrylic, Enamel, Lacquer, etc. See how people using your paint type do things. Don't get the very cheapest brush you can find as they're usually not very good but go a step up. Instead of a $15/20 dollar brush get one that costs $25/35. You'll find that just spending that little more gets you a better product. Then when your proficiency gets better get 1 or 2 in the $65 to $100 price range. There are many very good brushes in this price range that will last you for years if properly taken care of. If just getting 1 then decide what you are mostly going to use it for. Detail work, general, priming/base coating, etc. For detail work I'd suggest a needle size of .30mm or less, for priming, general, base coating go with .40mm to .60mm. As important as the brush is learning how to use the paint that your will primarily use. Thinning, cleaning, number and thickness of coats, etc. As I only use water based acrylics for miniature wargaming figures that's my focus for the paints, thinners, flow improvers, cleaners (one of the best cleaners for this is hot water from a kettle or coffee maker), etc. The brands I primarily use (all paid for by me, none given by manufacturer) are: Badger, Gaahleri, Paasche. All cost in the $70 to $150 range. The needle sizes range from .20mm to .70mm so there is a size for everything and every brand and series of paint I use.
I loved the advice to practice on cheep stuff. I have a friend who makes stunningly beautiful furniture and every new piece starts with him using cheap dimensional lumber and plywood to do a full build. It is better to learn what works and what doesn't on cheap stuff instead of the very expensive woods he will use for the finished piece.
As far as ivory substitutes go, there’s also tagua nut, sometimes known as vegetable ivory. It’s a largish nut (ten or fifteen centimetres across) with a hard off-white interior that can be polished up to an ivory-like finish. It’s a traditional material in Japanese netsuke carving.
With Ivory, there's two major things that I could also suggest. If you're doing something small, there is warthog ivory, it looks a lot like real ivory and is, normally, relatively cheap. If you're wanting an end result that looks like ivory, one workable solution is carve out of a fine grain, softer wood, then use it as a master to mold it and cast with some of the resin mixes. There are several options there for combos of resin, pigments, and mixins that can get a very good ivory look. I've been using stuff that the local hobby lobby has available for it with some things I sculpted and wanted to cast up
Regarding the airbrush question--I have to say, I've always admired Adam's thriftiness. I see so many people getting into a new hobby and buying *the most expensive* crap right out of the gate. Honestly when it comes to most tools/implements, there's very little wrong with the cheap stuff. Might not last as long, might not perform *quite* as well, but it's good to learn on. Get the expensive, durable stuff once you *get good* (and decide to stick with it.)
I'm told that the paint overlap technique Adam describes is also a basic technique with a painting contractor's sprayer, except the sprayer projects a wider cone; so if you're good at getting even coats with the airbrush, you probably understand the basics of painting entire walls. Another is starting the stroke _before_ the paint hits the desired surface and ending it _after_ the spray leaves the desired surface, and that one's from spray paint cans. If you need to do good work on a certain material, get that material in bulk before getting the model kit, or practice on the sprues first. For example, if you know you'll be painting PVC or ABS, get plastic pipes from the hardware store and use that to mess around.
Re: bone sources. Natural bone needs to be cleaned and degreased if you want it to be a good ivory substitute. A quick and easy option for clean bone (and what I used for the handle scales on my first Bowie knife) is a cow bone from the dog chew aisle at the pet supply store.
when I first got a dual action, the best advice I got was to practice with Indian Ink and do circles, swirls, dots and lines. It created muscle memory in my hand, arm and fingers
lol yeah the smell of bone being worked isn't for everyone. I don't know why but theres a certain aspect of the smell I find intriguing/pleasing. A tad distrurbing but your body likes what your body likes I guess. But if you work bone make sure to get a VERY good mask! You do NOT want to be breathing the dust in!!!
I'm having a full thickness cornea transplant Tuesday April 16th at University of Utah because the VA doesn't do it, so i will not be able to watch your videos for up to a month, but the wife can start them and i can listen, so if pain isn't above 7 i will be listening.
I think if you have a problem with the fit of the door increasing the hinge block standoff gives you more clearance as one big advantage of the center hung door is its ability to move more or less straight out before it makes its arc. If you want to be amazed at the fit of round door safes check out some of the cannonball safes of the early 1900's. I have seen some where it is almost impossible to see the any gap at all. Also you definitely need to add the pressure systems found on the outside to help pull out and pull in the door into the jamb. Also making a comb lock true to scale for that door will make you crazy if you try to copy a standard vault style lock. Been there done thst.
I was so lucky that my art teacher convinced the school board to create the first air brushing class in Minnesota. One of my classmates in art class is now a professional artist that uses airbrush a lot.
I think Jamie would have been very difficult to work with. But the episode when he graciously let Mr Adam have the once in a lifetime trip to the high atmosphere completely changed my view of him.
Wish you guys would have tested a vacuum vs a pressurized atmosphere without a solid container or how to keep water on a spinning sphere going in four different directions at varying speeds, especially in a vacuum. There's always something to test!
As a competitive skeet shooter, I agree the straight on targets coming towards you are very easy... Until you move to Station 9 which is half the distance and comes at you very fast! Especially in the international format!
Personally I would say that you should not buy a cheap crappy airbrush as your first one. Reason being that you'll likely get frustrated with it and just give up. Personally I'm a fan of Harder & Steenbeck. They're amazing quality and one of the greatest things about them is how simple they are to strip down when needed. No fiddly little wrenches and crap, it can all be done with just your fingers (at least for stripping it down as much as you'll need in 99.9% of cases). There are other brands which also use similar construction but I have no personal experience with those. This year they released the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 2024 which is actually made specifically for beginners. It's not cheap at about 100 bucks but I have no doubt you could sell it and get most of that back if you decide not to keep it. And you can upgrade it with parts from their more expensive brushes if you'd like. I'm not paid by H&S, even though it sure sounds like it :D I just really like their products. Also the GM for the company regularly makes videos on youtube talking about tips and tricks, does demos, answers questions from customers etc. And even if you don't go with H&S, try to go for something a bit more quality than the no-name crap you find on Amazon or Ebay for 20 bucks. Spend a bit more and you'll be glad you did. Also, go with a dual action brush and skip single action IMO. It'll take an hour longer to get the hang of, but you'll get much more control out of it, which is likely why you're thinking about an airbrush in the first place.
I looked at their website and watched a video on basics. I'm a simple guy and I'm turned off by pretentiousness. I don't like soft language and flowery speech when plain talk will do. It irritates me to hear "Weight Loss Journey" when it's really a diet. So I was going to watch the video when the guy making the video said "today I'm going to be showing you the innovations that we've got on our new ultra airbrush that are designed to support the first hours and days of a beginners painting journey". Everything is a journey these days. So, no, I'll be getting a different airbrush.
@@donmiller2908 I don't use any H&S airbrushes but they are 1st quality products. I wouldn't let the overt pretentiousness of their video writer/editor/commentator stop me from at least looking at their brushes. That said, I'm perfectly content with the brushes I do use.
I tend to agree, H&S do some quite cheap ones and they tend to standardise the parts across the range much of the time. Having said that a $30 amazon no brand brush will give you an idea if you want to go on, but I know a lot of people that were put off airbrushes for years because of a bad experience with a cheap badly made one (I've got 3 H&S brushes and an Iwata, the Iwata barely gets touched as the H&S ones are so versatile I tend to just swap the parts on them as needed).
Adam I normally agree with everything you say, you are a wonderful teacher and an inspiration to us. However I have to part ways with you on buying a cheap airbrush. As a model builder and one who has instructed folks in Airbrushing, buying a cheap airbrush will not only frustrate a beginner it will also cause them to lose interest quickly. I always tell the folks when I give a seminar on airbrushing to stay away from the Chinese knockoffs and purchese a name brand single action airbrush from someone like Badger, Paasche, or even Grex. All great companies that you can find parts for if not locally then online. Just my 2 cents. Thank You for all you do for us and the industry.
Re ivory substitutes: check out tagua. It’s a nut known as ‘vegetable ivory’. The nut is a little smaller than a doorknob, and works and polishes like real ivory. For a very specific kind of real ivory, tear down an antique piano keyboard. You can get a nontrivial amount of ivory sheet and ebony stick. Both are suitable for luthery, where I learned that trick.
Good source of faux ivory bars and horn? Tobacco pipe making supplies. Go look up Vermont Freehand. He's got all sorts of cool stuff for pipe making including the fake ivory and bone for accent rings and such.
Galalith is a good ivory substitute, a 'plastic' resin made from milk. It was a popular choice at one time, musical instrument makers using it for components which they had previously made from ivory or bone.
Mythbusters totally holds up today and there is so much room for it to be rebooted. With advances in camera technology it would be an amazing viewing experience. Treat this comment as a petition to get Adam and voice over guy back in the saddle.
Jamie seems like my older brother when we were young when he could almost never admit overtly when he was wrong, but I always respected him because he was right 99% of the time and if I proved that 1% he would begrudgingly concede in the moment and then try to forget it didn't happen.
Try vegetable ivory if its only for something small. I believe its the tagua nut from a type of palm. Its a recognised form of ivory, but vey much sustainable.
I just noticed Adam is wearing an Omega Speedmaster Professional. I love wearing my Speedy; such an iconic watch. Hey Adam, tells us about why you wanted a Speedy.
I started rewatching Mythbusters recently and I think I know why it succeeded where other copycat shows failed. The team behind Mythbusters cared about the science and finding out something new as their number 1 goal. The explosions and flare were all secondary. Like icing on a cake.
I have found a great airbrush learning channel on RUclips called, "Night Shift". Martin Kovac makes and details many models, mostly military tanks and also buildings that he has photographic references for to replicate in model form. He has tutorials on basics, weathering, rusting, etc. An amazing channel.
As an ivory stand-in, there is also Tagua Nut, which is also called "vegetable ivory" and is supposed to be great to carve. It only yields rather small pieces, though, and I can't vouch for having ever used it myself.
On the imitation ivory point, a good material is Tagua nut...it has an appearance similar to ivory with a bit of age to it, it also ages similarly to ivory. Its cons however...cost, amount and shape of material per nut and sometimes they can have a fibrous void in the centre, reducing the useable material. It is great for jewelery and small inlay pieces
Not to be taken as a slight to the huge library of myths tested on MB, but I still watch them with my kids and have learned to keep my mouth shut on on why something will likely but hilariously fail for 'tampering with physics' reasons. I finally told my oldest today as we were once again watching the Air Cylinder Rocket (with the boat at this segment in the episode) "I'm sure at least one of them knows a lot of these just won't work, but they're not testing physics, just the myth as stated through either historical or urban whispers". 😁
I worked at (Colossal) Pictures in PR (almost a decade before MythBusters). We were supposed to come up with some fun gimmies for a goody bag for clients. My idea was a beret inspired by Jamie's with "Masters of none" embroidered on it. It was already iconic as far as I was concerned. Got some samples, but we never actually made it. (I started working at the stage attached to their workshop. The first time I met them was delivering live butterflies that were used in the opening credits for Jack with Robin Williams.)
Actually Jamie said he'd give adam the hat if Adam "let me know when it (a replacement beret) arrives". So the Deal was that Adam would give Jamie a replacement Beret, and THEN Jamie would hand over the shot beret.
And another important thing for airbrushing: reliable compressed air source. If you have to choose between a cheap airbrush/expensive compressor and an expensive airbrush/cheap compressor, choose the cheap airbrush/expensive compressor. Hnads down the superior choice.
Having done airbrush since 1996 my advice is start with a double action. Get the cheapest one you can of course. But bypass single action airbrushes entirely.
Dear Adam and fans, My next build is the base of a cage for some very spoiled gerbils. I would like advice when buying untreated lumber. They are pretty much mouse sized desert beavers and will eat the wood. Therefore I'm thinking 2×4's are best but finding that untreated at a reasonable cost is proving difficult
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
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Some people have taxidermy animal heads mounted on the wall. You might one day have a nice shadow box display of that hat
I would bet if Jamie just said to Adam, "I really just want to keep it, it's important to me" Adam would have let him have it without a fight
Those two _weren't_ friends but _did_ for each other the kind of things that usually one asociates friends with. There's even a word for that in some languages.
They are and were Amicable, never besties but never want to kill them as an enemy.
@@notfeedynotlazyan acquaintance is the word you are looking for. Not friends. Not enemies. Often do things for each other as friends would. The word business often becomes before the word acquaintance because usually they are found at your work place....
@@ry6270 Colleagues.
@@DannyBeansyes work colleagues, they are usually the ones you become acquainted with. Lol
Somewhere out there I'll bet there's a MythBusters producer yelling at his screen, "It was NOT easy to get explosives!"
Both Adam and Jamie were producers on the show in addition to talent. Adam knows what he's talking about
Easy is a relative term.
The fact i cant chop a barrel off a gun, but they can refill an empty grenade is ridiculous. i DID yell at my screen at that one.
@@danielkirby8355 It's not really the same thing, though. The explosive was in the control and supervision of the bomb squad the whole time, and it was gone at the end. I assume you don't want to have your gun only used under the supervision of authorities and confiscated or destroyed after you're done using it?
Also, you can chop a barrel, you just need to keep the length 18 or more inches, or get a permit for shorter.
Adam is such a fantastic storyteller. He could describe how he ties his shoes and it would be thoughtful and entertaining.
For anyone who doesn't want to click. One trick with the traditional way to make a bow is which lace you go "over" with when you first knot your laces, like which hand you lead with. If you do it the wrong way, your bow will be prone to twisting sideways and coming loose. If you've ever had that happen, just be mindful, and try to put the other lace "over" as you start tying your knot. When they match, it holds straighter and tighter.
I agree!
"The Alameda County bomb squad is one of the most experienced bomb squads in the world because of the 15 years of crap Mythbusters threw at them" I loudly laughed out loud at that one
Bet they've got rusty at their job since mythbusters stopped
The European EOD teams being the most experienced given they've spent the last 80 years dealing with the thousands of tons of unexploded ordinance from WW2
@@JaenEngineering not necessarily, those WWII UXOs are relatively the same and once you delta with each type, your not getting the same creative new experience. Sure repetitive reps and sets are good, but they only go so far at increase your overall experience.
@@MorRobots BRITISH M O D AND THE RUC GOT PRETTY GOOD TOO...
I expect that their explosive forensics teams also had a blast going over the sites. I hope that they were kept in the dark so that they could analyze this with a clear mind. "I found something, It looks like it could have been part of a concrete mixer?!"
Whenever I hear Jamie laugh on Mythbusters, I can't help but laugh along with him. He has a wonderful laugh.
The idea of cloning an army of Jamie Hyneman’s is both fascinating and terrifying. No one would stand against him/them .
They joked late in the show that Jamie doesn't have any facial expressions aside from his poker face, but he did laugh almost out of control on camera, when Adam revisited the Goldfinger myth and Sanjay took his temperature through rectal probe.
@@markedis5902 just imagine an army of jamie's marching toward you saying "quack, damn you" or "jamie wants big boom" 🤣
@@MMuraseofSandvich "Oh, Sanjay, will you still respect me tomorrow?" 😂
@soulreapermagnum that's the best comment here!
With airbrushing miniatures, I've always advocated for practicing your aim with the primer. You're going to cover the whole thing anyway, why not get some practice in at the same time, doesnt matter if you miss!
TY. I've been looking to get into airbrushing and all these tips and pointers from experienced users are gold.
Useful advice ❤
Something I remember from the instruction sheet that came with my first airbrush: Take a sheet of paper and randomly put dots on it with a pencil. The go back over it using your airbrush and place dots of paint over the pencil dots. A few sheets done like that and you'll have a pretty good grasp of where to aim the airbrush to put paint exactly where you want it. Save these sheets, and when they're dry you can reuse them for the next exercise. Exercise 2: Connect the dots. Just like it sounds, paint lines in between the dots you painted earlier. Practice till you can smoothly paint straight lines, then repeat painting curved lines. Draw a radial pattern of dots on a clean sheet and paint spider webs using straight lines and curved lines. Repeat these exercises a few times and you should have a reasonable level of control and can start learning how to vary line widths and other techniques. It's also good practice when you haven't airbrushed anything in a while, and can be useful when trying to diagnose problems with an airbrush.
My best tip for those new to airbrushing:
You simply *CANNOT* be too thorough when cleaning it after use... The tiniest bit of old paint floating around in the system can be enough to throw it out of whack.
Yup. A good focused torch/light to shine into the cavities, and a jewellers eyepiece/loop can be very handy, and if you ever use a metallic or similar through the brush expect cleaning to take a lot longer and that you'll need to repeat it no matter how thorough you think you've been. Also never trust a friend to clean it properly even if they're doing it in your presence (I've done that and found a week later the brush was bunged up because they'd missed something because they thought it looked clean).
Also a dedicated cleaning area with some small pots/tattooist style paint cups with lids so if needed you can leave the nozzle and end caps in cleaner to soak. I use a bit of packing foam (the stuff they use for PC cases that is sort of honeycomb) with a couple of V grooves cut from one end to the other to sit the needles in whilst the rest of the brush is being cleaned, that way you don't have the needles rolling around and they are always in the right (safe) place during cleaning.
@@nilremukAnd an ultasonic cleaner is a godsend for getting it fully clean.
Unfortunately, I recently ended up with a destroyed airbrush and compressor system while bouncing around between things to finish one of the more infamous gundam models (RG RX-78-2...) and was getting frustrated with some of the loose parts on the kit, got to the point that I was just gluing them in place, knocked over the brand new bottle of ultra thin that did a lot of damage to the model, its paint job, decals, my airbrush, melted a hole in the cleaning jar, the hose and seals for the brush and other parts such as the cord to plug it in...and it also destroyed my cutting mat and did some major damage to my flooring.
On the plus side, there's now a $30 airbrush with battery powered compressor that, while limited, seems like it's going to be a new workhorse for me...
We know Adam and Jamie are not "buddies" but you can see the respect Adam holds for Jamie.
I believe they both have said and they have an immense amount of respect for one another, they're just not friends.
My understanding is that Jamie wasn't really buddies with any of his colleagues.
I think it’s just hard to process, because most of us can imagine wanting to be friends with both Adam and Jamie, so it’s strange they aren’t “friends” with each other.
@@dogpotato972 there's a great story Adam mentioned of when Jamie has his employees over for dinner and the second everyone finished eating he had them leave. Jamie just isn't much of a people person like Adam is.
The way Jamie is talked about in past tense and in third person because he rarely engages with the public these days due to his current projects makes it seem like he's no longer with us. It feels a bit weird to me. I wish Jamie interacted with fans a bit more.
That's actually great advice for starting any new technique: practice it on the cheap stuff!
And don't forget to document your process! Experience is valuable only if you learn from it. And the best way to learn from it is to review the record of your experiences.
Not necessarily the cheap stuff there, look at reviews and more before because there are a LOT of extremely cheap airbrushes that will drive you mad and get nothing done for you. It's one of look and find some decent cheap ones.
Thank you Adam. I've heard you describe the relationship between you and Jamie as not friends and not even friendly but, clearly you have some love for the time and experiences you shared. That's beautiful.
His advice on the air brushing is spot on, also go to flea markets and look for model kits. I've got shelfs full of kits needing to be built that were $15 each.
So not afraid to mess those up.
The advice with me and paint is, keep the paint away from me. Paint for me is merely an ablative coating, if that. ;)
Well, save when making rockets, then it's also a small space filler.
Inflation always manages to break my brain. I remember buying not-small model kits new for $10 and it took me a bit to process that $15 is the flea market price now.
I miss the Hynamen so much!
“Phhhthunk!” is one of my favourite onamatapaeia! It’s the grenade launcher noise from Terminator 2 for me 😜
Great example of that sound. I can still hear it my head when I think about it.
THOSE ARE NICK NAMED THE BLOOPER BECAUSE OF... 🤪
But Its true. Imagine asking the "bomb squad" bosses to get to blow up a cement mixer, FOR PRACTICE. Just not going to happen. Wait Myth Busters wants to do that, cool,. now we know what to do. Thanks Myth Busters.
@@robertweldon7909 I'd have paid real money to see their application to the FAA to close the airspace around that range being read at the FAA field office.
More like a “Bloopp”
For airbrush beginner, be prepared to fail. When I first started airbrushing, I intentionally did the hardest thing I knew to try. Which was airbrushing cheap acrylic craft paint. Dozens of clogs later and I was a master a tearing it down and cleaning it I also got really good at thinning paint to the right consistency.
After that, everything else was so easy to shoot.
I am by no means a master of the tool, but I am totally comfortable with it, and will grab it without a second thought when I think it will suit my needs.
Someone out there in Internetland must know where we can all go to hear that sound.
Bless us, Hero of the Internet.
I really love how you had a mutually beneficial arrangement with the bomb squad. You got free C4, they got valuable experience with weird bomb scenarios.
I'd say good advice for learning any new tools is to practice on something you don't care about ruining first, don't pull out something you've spent 20 hours on 40 steps on, and do something for the first time as step 41.
It's been 25 years since I helped make an deer antler horn knife, I can still remember the smell. It was so bad my friends father used brake cleaner to cover it up so he could use his garage 2 days later. You need an outdoor location far away from your living quarters or a massive exhaust system in a work shop. If you ever had a cavity drilled out and caught a whiff of that smell, well it's that filling the room for days.
Burnt hair smell. Agreed. Vile.
It's the exact same smell as cautery in the medical field. My dad (retired RN) stopped dead when he walked into my shop when i was cutting up a giant bone into smaller pieces for my dog, asking what on earth i was doing.
Oh god i can never forget the smell of a classmate making an antler ring in my machining class. Took him 3 days to finish all the rings he made, and the shop smelled like it for the whole week. Then, later, I had to relive that smell when my mom got into making bone broth. Hot bone/keratin is a smell i'd wish on very few people.
@callsignapollo_ thanks for the FYI on the smell. I know it too well from my parents making broth back when I was a kid.
It's really heartwarming to see you still out there sharing your love of building, Adam. Mythbusters was and is the greatest TV show of all time.
I learned to airbrush in college 20+ years ago. I started with a Badger Anthem. My uncle gave me a Paasche VL/S from the 80s when he heard I was learning.
The "cloning an army of Jamies" part turn into a strange cul-de-sac! 😂
It's wild that this treasure of a man said in that other video that he thought ADHD was "behind him" in his life... his perfectly meandering narrative structure is the language of my people!!!!
ADHD makes the difference between 'notable' and 'legendary' in a person, especially in creative minds
4:03 That is honestly probably the best re-enactment of that sounds on the internet. Well done
Still playing Mythbusters locally . I still look forward to it every week 🇦🇺
Airbrushes have 2 stages. 1st blows air and 2nd lets paint flow
Always trigger the 1st stage away from your work once before u spray at your work. That clears any spatter risk
It still blows my mind you and Jamie weren't friends off set. Your chemistry in the show was frankly amazing; you played off of each other so well.
you haven't seen all the episodes then. in the earlier seasons they left in more "drama" and you can see how much they fought. the "chemistry" is just a result of selective editing.
@@ssl3546 I think Jamie really didn't enjoy a lot of the process of making the show and took it out on Adam, who was a more natural star. That said, he definitely did have some great times, so some of the chemistry is real.
@@ssl3546 From what Adam has said, one of the early producers or directors was stirring the pot as well - carrying grudges back and forth to keep the drama going on camera. Once the two of them figured out what was going on and put a stop to it, about S3 or so, things got a lot better, from what I understand. Pretty sure they're friends off camera - at least as far as Adam is concerned. I can't speak for Mr Hyneman, he doesn't show up in my feeds as much.
Adam himself has said that they aren't friends, though work friends might be a decent term. Friendly at work, no interaction outside.
@@llearch Adam has repeatedly said that they weren't friends, they were very different people who could drive each other crazy, and they did not engage socially by themselves. Jamie (who rarely gives interviews) recently said it wasn't an exaggeration to say that he didn't really like Adam and that they weren't friends. I believe the same article said they were no longer in contact with each other.
That said, they both have spoken of their mutual respect for each other as work colleagues. But they weren't friends.
For imitation ivory an option in some cases might be tagua nut. It's a palm nut about the size of a large chicken egg. Usually have a void inside too shaped like a mango pit. But very fun to work with and extremely convincing as ivory. Cons: limited size and shape and it's incredibly hard. You just about need to use metal working tools for it.
For those just learning about it, it also goes by the name "vegetable ivory."
I haven't had the chance to use it yet, but I plan to eventually make drawer pulls from it.
@@jeffspaulding9834 You're gonna love it. The stuff is addictive to work with. Since I left that post 2 months ago I've learned one should soak it in warm water overnight. Makes it easier to cut and work with. Not soft by any stretch but less hard at least.
Any idea what he was talking about when he said he couldn't mention it on camera but it had a grain to it?
@@omgpix Just rewatched the video. Still not sure what you're talking about. What couldn't he mention on camera? The imitation ivory he has (I believe but may be wrong so fact check me) is a type of acrylic. The artificial ivory aka Ivoryoid I've had in the past was acrylic but I believe they used to make it from celluloid. I've also worked with artificial horn that was also acrylic. Same as the fake Ivory but a different color. The "grain" he's referring to isn't a physical grain like wood has, but a color grain. Striations of darker material throughout the imitation Ivory. You can't tell a difference when working it. It just works like hard plastic. Won't split on you or anything. As a side note about the acrylic, it may be useful to you when working it to heat it up. You can use a hot air gun or a small torch to make it soft and pull\bend\twist it to get weird shapes and grain patterns. Just heat it slowly. Not a lot of room between the temp acrylic softens at and the temp it blisters and combusts at. If you've never heated acrylic before search for "flame polishing acrylic" and start there. Same process, just takes longer if you're trying to heat a big block as opposed to a thin sheet. Also useful once it's been sanded to flame polish it. Much faster than working through the grits.
@@sethcarson5212 I was going to say it's at 9:23 but in pulling up the transcript I realized I may need to get my hearing checked.
9:20
made with a you can't see it on camera
9:23
but it's got a grain to it it's actually
9:25
quite lovely and I believe it polishes
Mercury space suit... Always lovely to see... Thanks!
Been using an airbrush for 60 plus years. I advice is forget everything anyone tells you. Just go for it. If you fall in love with the process there is nothing you can’t do. I’ve had professionals ask how did I get a particular Effect using an airbrush. All I can say is I know my instrument and know what can be done. Practice patience are you friends.
If I may add a bit I've learned, not about airbrushing but about art in general: don't be afraid to just play. Even if you haven't seen anyone do something, don't be afraid to try. I've figured out lots of fun things, even after being told it's impossible! See what it can do... ❤
Practice and patience are important, but this statement is flawed. You get the effects because you know different techniques. I know many artists who have much patience and much practice, but lack on many techniques.
Art is about knowledge more than anything. *How* to do things is most important. Just giving a person a pencil and paper they wont become a master artist without proper *knowledge.* Same thing with every art and skill. Give a person a welding kit and no matter what without being taught or trained they will not know how to weld.
Hearing the excitement in Adam's voice gives me hope for some more episodes. I know I keep hearing no, but I keep seeing yes. Now Jamie... 😶
Many years ago, I worked for a company that made bamboo fly fishing rods. We used a number of exotic materials for the reel seats on some of the more premium models including ivory, mammoth, water buffalo and hippo tooth (this was an absolute nightmare to machine down, kept dulling the bits really quickly). We had good luck with some of the synthetic material (ivory, horn, tortoise) we got from Masecraft Supply Co.
For small ivory pieces try tagua nuts. They carve like ivory.
I've made small chess pieces and a sea turtle out of tagua nut. Does indeed carve well and does not stink like bone if you sand or dremel it.
Not sure if it is the same material shown on camera, but knife handle makers have a faux ivory product they use, mostly for ferrules and butt caps, but it is durable enough for use on a kitchen knife handle.
White paper micarta is one. Looks really nice polished up.
In the piano restoration industry, the favorite synthetic ivory is Elforyn Super Tusk. It's practically indistinguishable from the real thing. They sell it in a few different form factors.
Hi Adam. Thank you so much for sharing all these insights and behind the scene anecdotes and dynamics of the entire team behind mythbusters. It really throws me back in my teen years when I was glued to the TV when a new mythbusters episode aired. I have a quote assigned to me being: 'I saw an episode of mythbusters about this...'.
I worked in a Navy Shipyard and your description of airbrushing was pretty much how we learned to paint ships. Of course we used 100 psi "Bulldog" pump airless systems but the principles were the same.
Before I tried to airbrush a costume, I got some kid's coloring books and airbrushed them. Keep it in the lines!
Also having an ultrasonic cleaner tub is game-changing for airbrush cleanup.
The Mythbusters/Banijay Science channels uploading episodes has been a joy to rewatch - but the real treats are the few glimpses of Jamie’s funny and relaxed side! Sometimes he’d even giggle! Also that beret went in the water a few times, that’s clean enough!
No longer available in the US.
Adam should do a challenge where he goes to a Dollar Store buy one of those horrifically bad action figures / toys and make it look like something decent
I wasnt expecting the Airbrush advice, but BOY do I appreciate it!
Ive picked up Automotive Wheel Repair in the past year.
I have been struggling to do any better than, "Just knowing how"
I also dont have anyone to ask for advice. Idlk how to simplify what I want to look for online either. So its been a struggle.
This wasnt the world of info, but it was incredibly helpful!
As always. whether its 2014 or 2024 Im still learning loads of stuff and in a fun way, Adam!
Thank you so much for being part of my learning experience and my childhood!!
weirdly enough EXACTLY that episode was suggested to me in the YT algorithm 3 days ago and I rewatched it.... And now Adam drops this video... Weird!
To add to the advice for an airbrush: start cheap. A paasche model H can be gotten reasonably inexpensively and many off brands are even cheaper. Learn how to field strip that thing like its your rifle and your life depends on it. Partially so you know how to clean it, partially so you know how it works and how to troubleshoot it.
That leads to my next point: clean it. Clean it again. When you think youve got it clean enough, clean it again. And when you arent painting, or storing it away, be ready to clean.
Adam I get immense joy watching your videos! Thank you!
This is why Jamie and Adam dont work well on a personal/friendship level. they both couldn't let go of that hat. 😅
3:30 this phunk! sound was so perfect! It sounded exactly like a sound effect pasted in
Jamie said...As soon as you give me a new one you can have this one.Thats what he said..
Bone dust is VERY dangerous to inhale like asbestos or silica.. that smell is the least of your worries 😅
Do guitar technicians know this?
Wear a mask?
For beginners watch lots of RUclips videos. Not just ones that do what you are thinking of doing, but ones that paint pictures, miniatures, war-game miniatures, everything you can find. the 1st thing you'll see is that there are many ways of getting the same results. Then start watching the ones that use the same medium that you'll do most of your work in. Be it water or solvent based Acrylic, Enamel, Lacquer, etc. See how people using your paint type do things.
Don't get the very cheapest brush you can find as they're usually not very good but go a step up. Instead of a $15/20 dollar brush get one that costs $25/35. You'll find that just spending that little more gets you a better product. Then when your proficiency gets better get 1 or 2 in the $65 to $100 price range. There are many very good brushes in this price range that will last you for years if properly taken care of. If just getting 1 then decide what you are mostly going to use it for. Detail work, general, priming/base coating, etc. For detail work I'd suggest a needle size of .30mm or less, for priming, general, base coating go with .40mm to .60mm.
As important as the brush is learning how to use the paint that your will primarily use. Thinning, cleaning, number and thickness of coats, etc.
As I only use water based acrylics for miniature wargaming figures that's my focus for the paints, thinners, flow improvers, cleaners (one of the best cleaners for this is hot water from a kettle or coffee maker), etc. The brands I primarily use (all paid for by me, none given by manufacturer) are: Badger, Gaahleri, Paasche. All cost in the $70 to $150 range. The needle sizes range from .20mm to .70mm so there is a size for everything and every brand and series of paint I use.
I actually, really laughed out loud at the beret story. Wonderful. ❤️
Use water based inks at first until you get used to subtle shading.
Cleaning is a task you need to be very thorough.
I loved the advice to practice on cheep stuff. I have a friend who makes stunningly beautiful furniture and every new piece starts with him using cheap dimensional lumber and plywood to do a full build. It is better to learn what works and what doesn't on cheap stuff instead of the very expensive woods he will use for the finished piece.
These stories are priceless. Thanks for sharing.
I have been thinking about that episode. Glad to know you still have it 😂
As far as ivory substitutes go, there’s also tagua nut, sometimes known as vegetable ivory. It’s a largish nut (ten or fifteen centimetres across) with a hard off-white interior that can be polished up to an ivory-like finish. It’s a traditional material in Japanese netsuke carving.
Its genus is _Phytelephas_ which means ‘plant elephant’ in Greek, so that’s also fun.
With Ivory, there's two major things that I could also suggest.
If you're doing something small, there is warthog ivory, it looks a lot like real ivory and is, normally, relatively cheap.
If you're wanting an end result that looks like ivory, one workable solution is carve out of a fine grain, softer wood, then use it as a master to mold it and cast with some of the resin mixes. There are several options there for combos of resin, pigments, and mixins that can get a very good ivory look. I've been using stuff that the local hobby lobby has available for it with some things I sculpted and wanted to cast up
Regarding the airbrush question--I have to say, I've always admired Adam's thriftiness. I see so many people getting into a new hobby and buying *the most expensive* crap right out of the gate. Honestly when it comes to most tools/implements, there's very little wrong with the cheap stuff. Might not last as long, might not perform *quite* as well, but it's good to learn on. Get the expensive, durable stuff once you *get good* (and decide to stick with it.)
I'm told that the paint overlap technique Adam describes is also a basic technique with a painting contractor's sprayer, except the sprayer projects a wider cone; so if you're good at getting even coats with the airbrush, you probably understand the basics of painting entire walls.
Another is starting the stroke _before_ the paint hits the desired surface and ending it _after_ the spray leaves the desired surface, and that one's from spray paint cans.
If you need to do good work on a certain material, get that material in bulk before getting the model kit, or practice on the sprues first. For example, if you know you'll be painting PVC or ABS, get plastic pipes from the hardware store and use that to mess around.
Re: bone sources. Natural bone needs to be cleaned and degreased if you want it to be a good ivory substitute. A quick and easy option for clean bone (and what I used for the handle scales on my first Bowie knife) is a cow bone from the dog chew aisle at the pet supply store.
when I first got a dual action, the best advice I got was to practice with Indian Ink and do circles, swirls, dots and lines. It created muscle memory in my hand, arm and fingers
lol yeah the smell of bone being worked isn't for everyone. I don't know why but theres a certain aspect of the smell I find intriguing/pleasing. A tad distrurbing but your body likes what your body likes I guess. But if you work bone make sure to get a VERY good mask! You do NOT want to be breathing the dust in!!!
I'm having a full thickness cornea transplant Tuesday April 16th at University of Utah because the VA doesn't do it, so i will not be able to watch your videos for up to a month, but the wife can start them and i can listen, so if pain isn't above 7 i will be listening.
I think if you have a problem with the fit of the door increasing the hinge block standoff gives you more clearance as one big advantage of the center hung door is its ability to move more or less straight out before it makes its arc. If you want to be amazed at the fit of round door safes check out some of the cannonball safes of the early 1900's. I have seen some where it is almost impossible to see the any gap at all. Also you definitely need to add the pressure systems found on the outside to help pull out and pull in the door into the jamb. Also making a comb lock true to scale for that door will make you crazy if you try to copy a standard vault style lock. Been there done thst.
They may not be friends, as is common for co-workers, but the level of respect is palpable.
I was so lucky that my art teacher convinced the school board to create the first air brushing class in Minnesota. One of my classmates in art class is now a professional artist that uses airbrush a lot.
fellow minnesotan!
I think Jamie would have been very difficult to work with. But the episode when he graciously let Mr Adam have the once in a lifetime trip to the high atmosphere completely changed my view of him.
Wish you guys would have tested a vacuum vs a pressurized atmosphere without a solid container or how to keep water on a spinning sphere going in four different directions at varying speeds, especially in a vacuum. There's always something to test!
As a competitive skeet shooter, I agree the straight on targets coming towards you are very easy... Until you move to Station 9 which is half the distance and comes at you very fast! Especially in the international format!
Personally I would say that you should not buy a cheap crappy airbrush as your first one. Reason being that you'll likely get frustrated with it and just give up. Personally I'm a fan of Harder & Steenbeck. They're amazing quality and one of the greatest things about them is how simple they are to strip down when needed. No fiddly little wrenches and crap, it can all be done with just your fingers (at least for stripping it down as much as you'll need in 99.9% of cases). There are other brands which also use similar construction but I have no personal experience with those.
This year they released the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 2024 which is actually made specifically for beginners. It's not cheap at about 100 bucks but I have no doubt you could sell it and get most of that back if you decide not to keep it. And you can upgrade it with parts from their more expensive brushes if you'd like.
I'm not paid by H&S, even though it sure sounds like it :D I just really like their products. Also the GM for the company regularly makes videos on youtube talking about tips and tricks, does demos, answers questions from customers etc.
And even if you don't go with H&S, try to go for something a bit more quality than the no-name crap you find on Amazon or Ebay for 20 bucks. Spend a bit more and you'll be glad you did. Also, go with a dual action brush and skip single action IMO. It'll take an hour longer to get the hang of, but you'll get much more control out of it, which is likely why you're thinking about an airbrush in the first place.
I looked at their website and watched a video on basics. I'm a simple guy and I'm turned off by pretentiousness. I don't like soft language and flowery speech when plain talk will do. It irritates me to hear "Weight Loss Journey" when it's really a diet. So I was going to watch the video when the guy making the video said "today I'm going to be showing you the innovations that we've got on our new ultra airbrush that are designed to support the first hours and days of a beginners painting journey". Everything is a journey these days. So, no, I'll be getting a different airbrush.
@@donmiller2908
I don't use any H&S airbrushes but they are 1st quality products. I wouldn't let the overt pretentiousness of their video writer/editor/commentator stop me from at least looking at their brushes. That said, I'm perfectly content with the brushes I do use.
I tend to agree, H&S do some quite cheap ones and they tend to standardise the parts across the range much of the time. Having said that a $30 amazon no brand brush will give you an idea if you want to go on, but I know a lot of people that were put off airbrushes for years because of a bad experience with a cheap badly made one (I've got 3 H&S brushes and an Iwata, the Iwata barely gets touched as the H&S ones are so versatile I tend to just swap the parts on them as needed).
There's also a thing called Vegetable Ivory, which is made from the Tagua nut and others.
Please clone Jamie, we need more Hyneman in the world
Adam I normally agree with everything you say, you are a wonderful teacher and an inspiration to us. However I have to part ways with you on buying a cheap airbrush. As a model builder and one who has instructed folks in Airbrushing, buying a cheap airbrush will not only frustrate a beginner it will also cause them to lose interest quickly. I always tell the folks when I give a seminar on airbrushing to stay away from the Chinese knockoffs and purchese a name brand single action airbrush from someone like Badger, Paasche, or even Grex. All great companies that you can find parts for if not locally then online. Just my 2 cents. Thank You for all you do for us and the industry.
Re ivory substitutes: check out tagua. It’s a nut known as ‘vegetable ivory’. The nut is a little smaller than a doorknob, and works and polishes like real ivory.
For a very specific kind of real ivory, tear down an antique piano keyboard. You can get a nontrivial amount of ivory sheet and ebony stick. Both are suitable for luthery, where I learned that trick.
I feel a bemused satisfaction when Adam gets excited talking about something and goes "Ah! Oh!..."
Good source of faux ivory bars and horn? Tobacco pipe making supplies. Go look up Vermont Freehand. He's got all sorts of cool stuff for pipe making including the fake ivory and bone for accent rings and such.
Galalith is a good ivory substitute, a 'plastic' resin made from milk.
It was a popular choice at one time, musical instrument makers using it for components which they had previously made from ivory or bone.
Its great you finally got Jamie's beret Loved that episode
Mythbusters totally holds up today and there is so much room for it to be rebooted. With advances in camera technology it would be an amazing viewing experience. Treat this comment as a petition to get Adam and voice over guy back in the saddle.
Without Jamie there's no room for it to be rebooted and Jamie would not be in it.
Jamie seems like my older brother when we were young when he could almost never admit overtly when he was wrong, but I always respected him because he was right 99% of the time and if I proved that 1% he would begrudgingly concede in the moment and then try to forget it didn't happen.
Try vegetable ivory if its only for something small. I believe its the tagua nut from a type of palm. Its a recognised form of ivory, but vey much sustainable.
I just noticed Adam is wearing an Omega Speedmaster Professional. I love wearing my Speedy; such an iconic watch. Hey Adam, tells us about why you wanted a Speedy.
There's a video on it
I started rewatching Mythbusters recently and I think I know why it succeeded where other copycat shows failed. The team behind Mythbusters cared about the science and finding out something new as their number 1 goal. The explosions and flare were all secondary. Like icing on a cake.
I have found a great airbrush learning channel on RUclips called, "Night Shift". Martin Kovac makes and details many models, mostly military tanks and also buildings that he has photographic references for to replicate in model form. He has tutorials on basics, weathering, rusting, etc. An amazing channel.
My friends
Adam, you're the king of wild tangents.
I was about to ask the beret question! 😂
Ah, a Jamie relic. The Holey Beret.
As an ivory stand-in, there is also Tagua Nut, which is also called "vegetable ivory" and is supposed to be great to carve. It only yields rather small pieces, though, and I can't vouch for having ever used it myself.
On the imitation ivory point, a good material is Tagua nut...it has an appearance similar to ivory with a bit of age to it, it also ages similarly to ivory. Its cons however...cost, amount and shape of material per nut and sometimes they can have a fibrous void in the centre, reducing the useable material. It is great for jewelery and small inlay pieces
Not to be taken as a slight to the huge library of myths tested on MB, but I still watch them with my kids and have learned to keep my mouth shut on on why something will likely but hilariously fail for 'tampering with physics' reasons. I finally told my oldest today as we were once again watching the Air Cylinder Rocket (with the boat at this segment in the episode) "I'm sure at least one of them knows a lot of these just won't work, but they're not testing physics, just the myth as stated through either historical or urban whispers". 😁
I worked at (Colossal) Pictures in PR (almost a decade before MythBusters). We were supposed to come up with some fun gimmies for a goody bag for clients. My idea was a beret inspired by Jamie's with "Masters of none" embroidered on it. It was already iconic as far as I was concerned. Got some samples, but we never actually made it.
(I started working at the stage attached to their workshop. The first time I met them was delivering live butterflies that were used in the opening credits for Jack with Robin Williams.)
A big box of cheap plastic spoons is a great thing to have if you're getting into airbrushing. They are great for doing color and finishing tests on.
Cut to: Alameida Sherrif's Dept doing a Q&A about their crazy training ideas dept, The Mythbusters.
4:30 watching you make Jamie crack up was always a good time 😆
Actually Jamie said he'd give adam the hat if Adam "let me know when it (a replacement beret) arrives". So the Deal was that Adam would give Jamie a replacement Beret, and THEN Jamie would hand over the shot beret.
Deer or Elk antlers are a decent ivory substitute. Since it's an antler and not a horn no harm is done to the animal if they're sourced sheds.
I watched that episode about a week ago, and I really wanted to know if you actually got to keep the beret!
And another important thing for airbrushing: reliable compressed air source. If you have to choose between a cheap airbrush/expensive compressor and an expensive airbrush/cheap compressor, choose the cheap airbrush/expensive compressor. Hnads down the superior choice.
I’ve been dying to ask if you had it. I’m glad someone finally asked 😂
I just watched the episode a couple of days ago. Was wondering this myself.
Having done airbrush since 1996 my advice is start with a double action. Get the cheapest one you can of course. But bypass single action airbrushes entirely.
Dear Adam and fans,
My next build is the base of a cage for some very spoiled gerbils. I would like advice when buying untreated lumber. They are pretty much mouse sized desert beavers and will eat the wood. Therefore I'm thinking 2×4's are best but finding that untreated at a reasonable cost is proving difficult