Hi Brian, very informative videos. I have 2 questions that you may be able to help me with if you don't mind please: 1) How did you remove the worm gear from the cranshaft during the strip down? Did you make your own puller adaptors? 2) I've split my cases, and the drive side came off nice and easily. I cannot, for the life of me, extract the crank from the timing side. I have heated my timing side case using a heat gun for a considerable amount of time (and multiple times), but I just can not remove it. If you have any tips for me, that would be great! Thanks in advance! Alex
Hi Alex, normally you only need a puller to remove the timing gear from the none drive side of the crank, l have a small 2 legged puller that I ground the feet down on to get under the gear. Once the gear is off the oil pump worm drive should slide off by hand, you may need to give it a pry with a small screwdriver. If it’s that tight or the crank is tight in the main bearing then heat is the only way without doing any damage. With the drive side casing removed place suitable sized wooden blocks on the edge of the casing either side of the crank flywheels. Then heat the case concentrating the heat in the area of the main roller bearing. I don’t think you will achieve enough temperature with a heat gun, a gas blowtorch would be the best option. The melting point of aluminium is around 700c and you will never get to that temperature with a gas blowtorch, so give the case plenty of heat and use a soft drift like aluminium, brass or copper on the end of the crankshaft and the outer bearing will come out with the crank. The end of the crankshaft is where the oil feed goes in to lube the big end so don’t attempt to knock out the shaft without a drift that’s made from a soft material as it will be easily deformed and is normally something you shouldn’t do, but in your case it looks like you have no option. Even if you have a hydraulic press you would still need to heat the case and use a soft drift on the end of the crankshaft. Once the crankshaft is out you will still need to remove the bearing from the crankshaft and will struggle to get it started to get a puller under the edge, so you may have to use a sharp chisel to make the gap to get the puller in. Once you have the bearing and pump drive off clean up the shaft and faces with wet&dry so it goes back easier. On assembly you will need to fit the main bearing into the case first and you will need to heat the case again with the blowtorch to fit it as the bearing has to be a tight fit in the case otherwise the outer race of the bearing will spin in aluminium case when the engine gets hot. I am sure you will manage it. Regards Brian
Hi Brian, how can you tell if the oil pump is any good before you put it back in the bike? I just ran my B25 after the rebuild (did not change pump) and it appeared to be returning oil but when I took it on a longer ride, it pumped all the oil out of the tank and the rest ran out of the gear change shaft. Not sure what to do next? Thanks.
Hi Chuck, The plus for you is the pressure side of the pump must working fine as the scavenging section of the pump is overwhelmed as the scavenge section of the pump delivers about 25% more oil flow than the pressure side. I would be looking at some kind of restriction in the oil return side. I would remove the sump plate to make sure there is no restriction in the gauze filter and that there is clearance between the bottom of the suction pipe and the sump plate, also check that you can lift the ball in the suction tube. If all that looks ok then remove the oil pipe manifold from the bottom of the crankcase and make sure there is no restriction in the return line pipework or the elbow that goes into the oil tank. Let us know what you find. Regards, Brian.
I replaced the scavenge anti-siphon valve and checked and cleaned the other anti-siphon valves, blew out all the lines to make sure no clogs, put it back together and restarted it. The return flow is now steady and increasing with rpm. Looks like problem solved. The scavenge valve was very corroded and I'll bet it was not getting good suction on the sump, causing the wet sumping. It was a real bear to change, tried tap and thread and it would not budge. I finally resorted to drilling it out and fitting a new valve with some blue loctite to prevent air leaks. I hope that is the answer! Regards Chuck.
@@chuckhollingsworth4186 Hi Chuck, Looks like you have sorted out the problem, if it's a later version B25 you may have the the drilling and blanking plug in the front of the inner timing case where you can fit a pressure gauge just to what oil pressure you have. (not on the early engines) Regards, Brian.
Hi Brian ,just watching your video did you put the crankshaft seal in drive side ,didn't see you do maybe you didn't video that and i'm mistaken [ I'm not trying to tell how do to do things just an observation I may be wrong] S Walsh
Hi, from mid 1968 on the drive side bearing was changed from a ball bearing to roller bearing where the inner and outer race of the bearing are floating on the longitudinal axis, so you tighten the non drive side up tight against the ball bearing inner race, pump drive and timing gear, and as the drive side is now a roller bearing it finds it own centre so no shimming of the crank is required.
@@TheCADengineer That's useful. Can it be fitted instead of the original ball bearing on earlier cranks and if so do you have a part number for the roller bearing?
@@user-je5qq9cd4z Hi Malcolm, I have never tried to fit the roller bearing to the early 1967 1st gen Starfires, but the roller bearing is dimensionally the same as the ball bearing (although 4 to 5 times the price) The ball bearing part number is 24-0375 (Hoffmann 325) and the roller bearing part number is 24-024 (Hoffmann R325L) The size for both the roller and ball bearing is in metric at 25x62x17. Regards, Brian.
@@TheGreyNomads-dr8jw Thanks Brian, My '69 engine is completely in parts and after I saw your video, I thought the roller bearing was a much better idea than trying to shim up the ball bearing, having to take it on/off measure and put shims behind it. I shall push the boat out and get the roller bearing now I have the number. Your videos are excellent and have some great ideas for doing things slightl;y differently. I've rebuilt both hubs winding the bearings in/out rather than bashing and rebuiult the front forks so just getting ready for the gearbox (I see you have a video for that thanks) and re-assembly next. Regards, Malocol
Hi Malcolm, great that you are getting some use from the videos as that’s what l was hoping for to keep the old classics going and keep the iconic British motorcycling alive. Will be interested in your ideas of what you are doing differently to your 69 Starfire. Regards Brian
Hi Brian, very informative videos. I have 2 questions that you may be able to help me with if you don't mind please:
1) How did you remove the worm gear from the cranshaft during the strip down? Did you make your own puller adaptors?
2) I've split my cases, and the drive side came off nice and easily. I cannot, for the life of me, extract the crank from the timing side. I have heated my timing side case using a heat gun for a considerable amount of time (and multiple times), but I just can not remove it.
If you have any tips for me, that would be great!
Thanks in advance!
Alex
Hi Alex, normally you only need a puller to remove the timing gear from the none drive side of the crank, l have a small 2 legged puller that I ground the feet down on to get under the gear. Once the gear is off the oil pump worm drive should slide off by hand, you may need to give it a pry with a small screwdriver. If it’s that tight or the crank is tight in the main bearing then heat is the only way without doing any damage. With the drive side casing removed place suitable sized wooden blocks on the edge of the casing either side of the crank flywheels. Then heat the case concentrating the heat in the area of the main roller bearing. I don’t think you will achieve enough temperature with a heat gun, a gas blowtorch would be the best option. The melting point of aluminium is around 700c and you will never get to that temperature with a gas blowtorch, so give the case plenty of heat and use a soft drift like aluminium, brass or copper on the end of the crankshaft and the outer bearing will come out with the crank. The end of the crankshaft is where the oil feed goes in to lube the big end so don’t attempt to knock out the shaft without a drift that’s made from a soft material as it will be easily deformed and is normally something you shouldn’t do, but in your case it looks like you have no option. Even if you have a hydraulic press you would still need to heat the case and use a soft drift on the end of the crankshaft. Once the crankshaft is out you will still need to remove the bearing from the crankshaft and will struggle to get it started to get a puller under the edge, so you may have to use a sharp chisel to make the gap to get the puller in. Once you have the bearing and pump drive off clean up the shaft and faces with wet&dry so it goes back easier. On assembly you will need to fit the main bearing into the case first and you will need to heat the case again with the blowtorch to fit it as the bearing has to be a tight fit in the case otherwise the outer race of the bearing will spin in aluminium case when the engine gets hot. I am sure you will manage it. Regards Brian
Hi Brian, how can you tell if the oil pump is any good before you put it back in the bike? I just ran my B25 after the rebuild (did not change pump) and it appeared to be returning oil but when I took it on a longer ride, it pumped all the oil out of the tank and the rest ran out of the gear change shaft. Not sure what to do next? Thanks.
Hi Chuck,
The plus for you is the pressure side of the pump must working fine as the scavenging section of the pump is overwhelmed as the scavenge section of the pump delivers about 25% more oil flow than the pressure side.
I would be looking at some kind of restriction in the oil return side. I would remove the sump plate to make sure there is no restriction in the gauze filter and that there is clearance between the bottom of the suction pipe and the sump plate, also check that you can lift the ball in the suction tube.
If all that looks ok then remove the oil pipe manifold from the bottom of the crankcase and make sure there is no restriction in the return line pipework or the elbow that goes into the oil tank.
Let us know what you find. Regards, Brian.
I replaced the scavenge anti-siphon valve and checked and cleaned the other anti-siphon valves, blew out all the lines to make sure no clogs, put it back together and restarted it. The return flow is now steady and increasing with rpm. Looks like problem solved.
The scavenge valve was very corroded and I'll bet it was not getting good suction on the sump, causing the wet sumping. It was a real bear to change, tried tap and thread and it would not budge. I finally resorted to drilling it out and fitting a new valve with some blue loctite to prevent air leaks. I hope that is the answer! Regards Chuck.
@@chuckhollingsworth4186
Hi Chuck,
Looks like you have sorted out the problem, if it's a later version B25 you may have the the drilling and blanking plug in the front of the inner timing case where you can fit a pressure gauge just to what oil pressure you have. (not on the early engines)
Regards, Brian.
Hi Brian ,just watching your video did you put the crankshaft seal in drive side ,didn't see you do maybe you didn't video that and i'm mistaken [ I'm not trying to tell how do to do things just an observation I may be wrong] S Walsh
Hi Stephen, you are absolutely correct, I noticed when I put the tools away and tidied the bench afterwards. Seal now fitted. Regards, Brian.
Hi you did not fit any shims on the non drive side how do you know if it needs shims if it is tight on the none drive side bearing, thanks regards ray
Hi, from mid 1968 on the drive side bearing was changed from a ball bearing to roller bearing where the inner and outer race of the bearing are floating on the longitudinal axis, so you tighten the non drive side up tight against the ball bearing inner race, pump drive and timing gear, and as the drive side is now a roller bearing it finds it own centre so no shimming of the crank is required.
@@TheCADengineer That's useful. Can it be fitted instead of the original ball bearing on earlier cranks and if so do you have a part number for the roller bearing?
@@user-je5qq9cd4z Hi Malcolm, I have never tried to fit the roller bearing to the early 1967 1st gen Starfires, but the roller bearing is dimensionally the same as the ball bearing (although 4 to 5 times the price) The ball bearing part number is 24-0375 (Hoffmann 325) and the roller bearing part number is 24-024 (Hoffmann R325L) The size for both the roller and ball bearing is in metric at 25x62x17. Regards, Brian.
@@TheGreyNomads-dr8jw Thanks Brian, My '69 engine is completely in parts and after I saw your video, I thought the roller bearing was a much better idea than trying to shim up the ball bearing, having to take it on/off measure and put shims behind it.
I shall push the boat out and get the roller bearing now I have the number.
Your videos are excellent and have some great ideas for doing things slightl;y differently.
I've rebuilt both hubs winding the bearings in/out rather than bashing and rebuiult the front forks so just getting ready for the gearbox (I see you have a video for that thanks) and re-assembly next.
Regards, Malocol
Hi Malcolm, great that you are getting some use from the videos as that’s what l was hoping for to keep the old classics going and keep the iconic British motorcycling alive. Will be interested in your ideas of what you are doing differently to your 69 Starfire. Regards Brian