Great Episode! Everytime you work on some new panels you are one level up! Very nice job! I have an anxiety when i watch your videos and i'm afraid you are going to say this is all the time you had this week! But i can tell how time consuming even the little parts are! Keep it up! It's going to be awesome when its complete!
Looking good! Your progress on the firewall (always a pain with all the round shapes) and the new intro. Try using a solid wheel on the bottom for rolling the flanges instead of the skateboard wheel.
If you have to have flexes in the exhaust, see if the bellows style is available in the proper sizes. On the Frankenhauler, great fab work as always. One etiquette note; anytime you row through the gears after a shifter installation on a project vehicle you are required to make engine noises. This only applies to manual gearboxes obviously 😊
That piece over the exhaust pipe could have been squared off to create a footrest for the clutch foot when it's not declutching. And 3 minutes after I wrote this, you mention the dead pedal footrest. lol
You're fabrication skills are just amazing Jeff. For someone who's self taught, that floor looks amazing! Especially with the bead rolling which twists and warps flet steel so much. To get those results without pressing equipment and moulds is nothing short of brilliant for somebody that's learned this stuff without formal training.
Hell Jeff. Your video content is always informative and inspiring. My i make a suggestion on your Alphararri. I suggest also putting another exhaust hanger on the downpipe in front of the flex tube. The exhaust may be too heavy and need additional support in that location. Once you cut the exhaust tube to replace the flex pipe, inspect the exhaust tubes to insure they are inline with one another. I suspect they are misaligned because they keep failing. In the case of misalignment, you can add a longer flex tube or remedy the tube misalignment. I hope this helps. Keep up the great work.
Always amazing to see you build things from scratch in such great quality, knowing that you are self taught. Inspire's me to try do do something new. Thanks
An alternative to flex pipe is a doughnut on a spring. A flange with a cupped sealing area and a rounded gasket held closed by spring tension. Often used by OEMs so the parts should be in catalogs.
I love this build, and appreciate your approach to solving problems like how to piece together the floor. Given that you built the brake master cylinder to bolt in from the engine side of the fire wall, you’ll need consider that in your firewall design. Looking forward to the next vid!
Interesting idea with the bead roller. I 3d printed dies for mine to use in the press and heated the steel up slightly which seemed to work well for my wheel tubs.so good to see it coming together. As for the flexes in the exhaust, those ones are terrible, ive never had success with that type of flex joint. Ive switched my exhausts over to bellows for that reaspn.
So nice to see plates on the Alfararri! I´m sure you designed it so you can get the mount for the brakebooster and the pedal out after you have installed the floor, but it looks tight! As always, fantastic work by you and Mrs Jeff, it is also inspiring that you show the mistakes as well as the successes.
Good progress, make sure you check pedal clearence against the tunnel wearing shoes as it currently looks like your shoe will catch the side panel when pressing the pedal 😊
Awesome metal work Jeff, I’ve got my pen and paper here taking notes! 📝✌️ Do you think it’s possible to bead roll the opposite direction to stretch first, rather than use the English wheel? Don’t have one of those yet. As for the Alfa exhaust flexes… not sure if it’s already been suggested, but what about donut-style units? Should last a lot longer! Cheers man 🤜
If you want to add beads without prestretching with the english wheel look at Make It Kustom from a few weeks ago where he does it with a modified air hammer. No warping and prefect beads.
@@HomeBuiltByJeffCheers Jeff, the dude’s a great fabricator and I love his content but upon more research I think I may go more along the idea of stretching dies for the bead roller so it can double duty. 👌 On a different note, I have no idea why but RUclips isn’t notifying me about hearts or replies to my comments these days… have you experienced that too? Only just saw your reply here!
@@HomeBuiltByJeff Haha, glad it seems to be working for you but I don’t know what’s going on then! Weird, I haven’t changed any settings and still get the typical percentage of notifications for comments on my videos, but any sort of reply elsewhere, nothing. I have to go back and check to see what’s happened! Oh well, maybe it’ll fix itself in due course 😅✌️ cheers sir!
Great vid. It’s funny every time I watch your vids where you weld a lot I think to myself ‘I’m gonna go weld something today!’ Inspiring to say the least. Keep it up! Thanks again!
Great progress Jeff. I know you said you have space for your left foot to rest but I find tight clutch areas and footrests uncomfortable on long journeys, put as much room as you can!
More great work, Jeff. Where the old battery box was - my thought was retain the access hatch and have a 'secret' underslung cooler box for sandwiches and beverages for those longer trips?!
hi jeff , on the exhaust either replace the flex joints with slip joints (pipe inside pipe ) or use flex pipe . could the exhaust temps be too high for those flex joints
Regarding those flex joints, find some OEM flex joints from whatever car it might have the right diameter, the OEM ones don't leak and are also flexible. All "racing" flex hoses are made of rebar or something because they leak and don't flex 🤣
You should check out Yorkshire Car Restoration. The metal work is their bread and butter and they do a lot of the stuff you’ve been doing here. Great work though. Love the channel and seeing things evolve!
You don’t need the flex joints at all. I’ve been building exhausts for years in 304 stainless for years without them. As long as you do a decent job welding/fabricating, you’ll be fine.
Love the channel, one thing with the floor near the Turbo and engine pipe. You're going to need some insulation or the floor will be unbearably hot without any.
You could always go to exhaust bellows for the leak... Im not sure how much better or worse they are than the steel braided flex sections but I can say they are more solid. If you look inside flex sections they appear to have segments...
Ditch the flexi’s. It might work just fine without them because they’re used mainly on transversally mounted engines where the twisting motion of the torque tries to bend the exhaust pipes. Longitudinally mounted engines flex in the same plane the rest of the exhaust is mounted so usually doesn’t need flexi’s.
Hi Jeff, Very nice job like always . Don’t you think that your feet are gonna be hot with the location of the turbo? Do you foresee a heat shield ? Alexandre from France
I'd def put the flex joints behind the cats because all that's doing is making them less effective by diluting and cooling the exhaust stream. Might also be too hot for the flex joints. Don't OEM's usually put flex joints right before the muffler?
Love the fab stuff. I wonder, with floor pan channels, if just steel hammer form guides just plasma cut wouldn't make creating different length runner channels (wide beads) easier w/o pre-stretching. See the Make it Kustom YT chan. Pretty easy and fairly precise way to form channels using an air hammer....
Won’t the pressure in the exhaust be a lot less after the cat? The cat is very restrictive so static pressure must be very high before it. Maybe that’s why it’s leaking so much. Moving it aft may do the trick (enough)
Set the steering wheel centre to the drivers seat then cut out and move the dash instruments pod over to suit, shouldn’t be to much work and getting the look and ergonomics right is critical for a comfortable drive.
Flex should be behind the cats but for them to keep braking sounds like possible cheep manufacturers? Never had issues with parts from SWD maybe try them?
On those exhaust flexes - do you need them at all, given how your engine is moving only marginally when under load? The exhaust hangers could be sufficient to absorb what movement there is, perhaps.
Maybe flex bellows on the Alfarrari exhaust instead? Strange. Only thing I can think there is that the relative stiffness of the engine mounts is high compared to the muffler/resonator mounts, resulting in the exhaust pivoting on those pipe flexes, causing them to move outside their range of motion and crack/break.
My E39 M5 and E60 M5 do not have them, with pretty soft engine mountings. The E39's quiet V8 exhaust has mounts in 3 separate places, at the back of the transmission (4x 18207546579), again at a tunnel chassis brace (2x 18207832991), and finally 3 mounts at each rear muffler (6x 18201401797). Each mount allows for progressively more play, making the whole system solid.
Your injectors might have leaked for some reason and hydrolocked your engine slightly when you tried to start it .After a bit the fuel would have gone past the rings and into the oil so that's why it started ok now . Check the oil for fuel odor to see if this is what happened.
"I don't have a complete plan in my head of how it's all going to work, I just have faith that it will.". Those are some words to live by!
Really enjoying this build Jeff. This trans tunnel, floor and firewall I think is some of your best work.
Great Episode! Everytime you work on some new panels you are one level up! Very nice job! I have an anxiety when i watch your videos and i'm afraid you are going to say this is all the time you had this week! But i can tell how time consuming even the little parts are! Keep it up! It's going to be awesome when its complete!
Looking good! Your progress on the firewall (always a pain with all the round shapes) and the new intro. Try using a solid wheel on the bottom for rolling the flanges instead of the skateboard wheel.
It's great to see you way of working around problems. Watching it slowly take shape.
If you have to have flexes in the exhaust, see if the bellows style is available in the proper sizes. On the Frankenhauler, great fab work as always. One etiquette note; anytime you row through the gears after a shifter installation on a project vehicle you are required to make engine noises. This only applies to manual gearboxes obviously 😊
And "ptishhh" sounds on the downshifts? "Bdarrrrrr" when lifting of the gas?😂
I love this stage. I can't see how your going to make a panel until after it's done. Great to watch
Congrats on hitting 200k by the way sir! 👏🎉
Thanks mate :D
The tunnel is a very nice piece of fabrication, Jeff.
That piece over the exhaust pipe could have been squared off to create a footrest for the clutch foot when it's not declutching.
And 3 minutes after I wrote this, you mention the dead pedal footrest. lol
You're fabrication skills are just amazing Jeff. For someone who's self taught, that floor looks amazing! Especially with the bead rolling which twists and warps flet steel so much. To get those results without pressing equipment and moulds is nothing short of brilliant for somebody that's learned this stuff without formal training.
Hell Jeff. Your video content is always informative and inspiring. My i make a suggestion on your Alphararri. I suggest also putting another exhaust hanger on the downpipe in front of the flex tube. The exhaust may be too heavy and need additional support in that location. Once you cut the exhaust tube to replace the flex pipe, inspect the exhaust tubes to insure they are inline with one another. I suspect they are misaligned because they keep failing. In the case of misalignment, you can add a longer flex tube or remedy the tube misalignment. I hope this helps. Keep up the great work.
Always amazing to see you build things from scratch in such great quality, knowing that you are self taught. Inspire's me to try do do something new. Thanks
After the tool cart cut incident I was so expecting a new cart product advert 😅
Hay Jeff, maybe looking into the Vibrant Performance Bellows Assemblies. Keep up the great work!
You are so motivated!!! I wish we were neighbours I would help out on the regular!!!
that foot panel is super nice!
Loving the fabrication work Jeff 👌
Another great week of work Jeff! Amazing how much work you have put in over the past what 8 years? The bead work in the floorboard looks really OEM.
Slow and steady wins the day Jeff.
An alternative to flex pipe is a doughnut on a spring.
A flange with a cupped sealing area and a rounded gasket held closed by spring tension.
Often used by OEMs so the parts should be in catalogs.
Was just going to suggest that method, think they use that on the 90's Mitsubishi pajero on the down pipe from the engine 👍
Good call anomamos
I buy the lined flex joints that have a corrugated sleeve on the inside. You could also use a bellows instead of the lined flex joint.
Once again, nice work Jeff - blows my mind how broad your skill set is...
I love this build, and appreciate your approach to solving problems like how to piece together the floor. Given that you built the brake master cylinder to bolt in from the engine side of the fire wall, you’ll need consider that in your firewall design. Looking forward to the next vid!
It is all designed to be unbolted from inside the cab ;)
new opening credits look very professional nice work
Went super quiet on volume for me
This hawler is going to be super sweet, so much detail, I really like it a lot Jeff.
Best wishes to you and Mrs Jeff 👍💪✌
New Intro! Just finished the Roxster and now I'm all caught up on the Alfrararri and Frankenhauler. Keep up the awesome videos.
Loving this build! Cannot wait for the back fabrication to see how you tie it all together!
Great work mate, still amazing to me how far you have come over the years Jeff 😁
Interesting idea with the bead roller. I 3d printed dies for mine to use in the press and heated the steel up slightly which seemed to work well for my wheel tubs.so good to see it coming together. As for the flexes in the exhaust, those ones are terrible, ive never had success with that type of flex joint. Ive switched my exhausts over to bellows for that reaspn.
Good progress mate that engine bay pedel box cover looks like a fair challenge to make pretty
Nice work Jeff! Loving this build.
I really hope you change your "patina" plan and make this look really nice
Wow. These steps make such a big difference, like when you put the trunk floor in the Alfarrari. Great work!
Yeah, the bead roll makes a huge difference to the strength of the panels.
Perfect, you floored it Jeff😁
So nice to see plates on the Alfararri!
I´m sure you designed it so you can get the mount for the brakebooster and the pedal out after you have installed the floor, but it looks tight!
As always, fantastic work by you and Mrs Jeff, it is also inspiring that you show the mistakes as well as the successes.
Good progress, make sure you check pedal clearence against the tunnel wearing shoes as it currently looks like your shoe will catch the side panel when pressing the pedal 😊
jeff, your skills are amazing
Awesome metal work Jeff, I’ve got my pen and paper here taking notes! 📝✌️ Do you think it’s possible to bead roll the opposite direction to stretch first, rather than use the English wheel? Don’t have one of those yet. As for the Alfa exhaust flexes… not sure if it’s already been suggested, but what about donut-style units? Should last a lot longer! Cheers man 🤜
If you want to add beads without prestretching with the english wheel look at Make It Kustom from a few weeks ago where he does it with a modified air hammer. No warping and prefect beads.
@@HomeBuiltByJeffCheers Jeff, the dude’s a great fabricator and I love his content but upon more research I think I may go more along the idea of stretching dies for the bead roller so it can double duty. 👌 On a different note, I have no idea why but RUclips isn’t notifying me about hearts or replies to my comments these days… have you experienced that too? Only just saw your reply here!
@ Mine still does, I think. Unless I have missed a bunch I don't know about?
@@HomeBuiltByJeff Haha, glad it seems to be working for you but I don’t know what’s going on then! Weird, I haven’t changed any settings and still get the typical percentage of notifications for comments on my videos, but any sort of reply elsewhere, nothing. I have to go back and check to see what’s happened! Oh well, maybe it’ll fix itself in due course 😅✌️ cheers sir!
Great vid. It’s funny every time I watch your vids where you weld a lot I think to myself ‘I’m gonna go weld something today!’
Inspiring to say the least. Keep it up! Thanks again!
You've done a great job again, especially the part where the gear lever comes out, well done 🙂👍🏻
Great progress Jeff. I know you said you have space for your left foot to rest but I find tight clutch areas and footrests uncomfortable on long journeys, put as much room as you can!
When you kicked the trolley .. I thought an advertisement Segway was coming up 😂
More great work, Jeff.
Where the old battery box was - my thought was retain the access hatch and have a 'secret' underslung cooler box for sandwiches and beverages for those longer trips?!
I think you have enough flexibility in the exhaust hangars to delete those mesh couplers. They're nothing but trouble.
hi jeff , on the exhaust either replace the flex joints with slip joints (pipe inside pipe ) or use flex pipe .
could the exhaust temps be too high for those flex joints
Great to see the fab work
Great work as usual, well done
Regarding those flex joints, find some OEM flex joints from whatever car it might have the right diameter, the OEM ones don't leak and are also flexible. All "racing" flex hoses are made of rebar or something because they leak and don't flex 🤣
Awesome work, as always!
Cool rig mate.
It looks great Jeff. Good work!!
I had a terrible day on the TIG today. I was smart enough to pack up and leave it for another day. I usually push on and ruin everything and hate it!
Take your time, mate! Love your work!
Nice new updated introduction titles there Jeff. Nice work on the truck. Keep pushing forward.
This is definitely my favourite part of the build so far 👍🏻🏴
This part of a build is the most fun for me 😍
All hail the algorithm!
I'm really loving this build Jeff! 👍
You should check out Yorkshire Car Restoration. The metal work is their bread and butter and they do a lot of the stuff you’ve been doing here. Great work though. Love the channel and seeing things evolve!
Jeff you must have been good at Jigsaw Puzzles when a child!. Getting there ! Bill Mc
Great to see your progress!!! 😊👍👍👏😎
Loving your work Jeff, another great episode, :)
Love what you doing, Braden. Big ups.
You don’t need the flex joints at all. I’ve been building exhausts for years in 304 stainless for years without them. As long as you do a decent job welding/fabricating, you’ll be fine.
Love the channel, one thing with the floor near the Turbo and engine pipe. You're going to need some insulation or the floor will be unbearably hot without any.
It will be sweet when you get the Ferrari exhaust note sorted
good job Jeff 👍💪
You could always go to exhaust bellows for the leak... Im not sure how much better or worse they are than the steel braided flex sections but I can say they are more solid. If you look inside flex sections they appear to have segments...
Excellent work..
Ditch the flexi’s. It might work just fine without them because they’re used mainly on transversally mounted engines where the twisting motion of the torque tries to bend the exhaust pipes. Longitudinally mounted engines flex in the same plane the rest of the exhaust is mounted so usually doesn’t need flexi’s.
Some Bead-rolling on the tunnel?
🎉🎉25🎉🎉
Maybe use the old battery area and lid to make an under floor toolbox?
Nice Job Jeff 👍😎👍
Hi Jeff,
Very nice job like always .
Don’t you think that your feet are gonna be hot with the location of the turbo?
Do you foresee a heat shield ?
Alexandre from France
Updated intro? Noice!
Sure looked different to me as well.
I'd def put the flex joints behind the cats because all that's doing is making them less effective by diluting and cooling the exhaust stream. Might also be too hot for the flex joints. Don't OEM's usually put flex joints right before the muffler?
You need a “FLEX BELLOW pipe” for the Alfa exhaust
Just an idea re flexors. I wonder if wrapping them with heat strips, like people do on dump pipes? Cheap fix potentially.
Watch the new video ;)
@@HomeBuiltByJeff I watch them all, fav channel.
Good work ❤
Question: Why do you weld captive nuts to the underside of panels, instead of using rivnuts?
Captive nuts are much better than rivnuts. They will never come loose and spin in place ;)
Love the fab stuff. I wonder, with floor pan channels, if just steel hammer form guides just plasma cut wouldn't make creating different length runner channels (wide beads) easier w/o pre-stretching. See the Make it Kustom YT chan. Pretty easy and fairly precise way to form channels using an air hammer....
A tool box in stead of the battery?
Looking great!
hi Jeff. loving the build. i have seen bellows type exhaust joiners that allow flex. would these work in your situation?
Yeah, they did an other type of flex joint for the Exhaust kinda looks like bellowed pipe.. you could try that..?
Flexi’s are necessary to stop breaking studs and welds etc but they are one item you need to spend, cheap Chinesium ones are junk and blow!
Won’t the pressure in the exhaust be a lot less after the cat? The cat is very restrictive so static pressure must be very high before it. Maybe that’s why it’s leaking so much. Moving it aft may do the trick (enough)
Set the steering wheel centre to the drivers seat then cut out and move the dash instruments pod over to suit, shouldn’t be to much work and getting the look and ergonomics right is critical for a comfortable drive.
Just realised I haven't even bothered editing this weeks video and I usually upload tomorrow.
Guess I'm giving up!
Comment for the crazy algorithm
New introduction is good
What thickness metal are you using for the shifter plate / tunnel?
1mm
@HomeBuiltByJeff thanks, really enjoying the franken- hauler build 👍
How about heat wrapping the flexis ?
Haha. I actually did that yesterday and it is barely any better.
Flex should be behind the cats but for them to keep braking sounds like possible cheep manufacturers? Never had issues with parts from SWD maybe try them?
Spectacular
On those exhaust flexes - do you need them at all, given how your engine is moving only marginally when under load? The exhaust hangers could be sufficient to absorb what movement there is, perhaps.
Maybe flex bellows on the Alfarrari exhaust instead? Strange. Only thing I can think there is that the relative stiffness of the engine mounts is high compared to the muffler/resonator mounts, resulting in the exhaust pivoting on those pipe flexes, causing them to move outside their range of motion and crack/break.
My E39 M5 and E60 M5 do not have them, with pretty soft engine mountings. The E39's quiet V8 exhaust has mounts in 3 separate places, at the back of the transmission (4x 18207546579), again at a tunnel chassis brace (2x 18207832991), and finally 3 mounts at each rear muffler (6x 18201401797). Each mount allows for progressively more play, making the whole system solid.
I think I will just remove them for now. The worst that happens is that get a crack and I have another exhaust leak, so I have to weld it up.
Maybe the pre cat temperatures are too high for the flex
@@HomeBuiltByJeff Remove them flex pipe was invented for traverse engines witt soft motor mounts to combat the difference in length
Let’s go! Super stoked to see what’s next.
🫶🏾🇿🇼
Your injectors might have leaked for some reason and hydrolocked your engine slightly when you tried to start it .After a bit the fuel would have gone past the rings and into the oil so that's why it started ok now . Check the oil for fuel odor to see if this is what happened.
Another early Saturday morning gift. Fortunately I don’t have to get up for work on a Saturday.
LCS - Like Comment Subscribe … Patreon for the win.
Glad I could get your weekend off to a fun start :D
Make some space from the catalytic converter to the flex pipe , Heat blow out.
Logged ands subdued, or whatever my slide predictive keyboard wants to do, feeding the algorithm.