Ramy: my work would be easier If I got a 2 meters 3D printer. Ivan: I am building a 3D printer 2 meters in length. Ramy: Great I must get one. (1 Week later) Ramy: My next project is a 3 meters Airplane. Ivan: I got your back bro.
Looking forward to seeing this finished Ramy! I work for Rolls-Royce, and used to build the Trent 900's. If you're ever in the UK I'd be happy to give you a tour.
Hi mitch i know its a bit of a long shot and im currently studying engineering at college and it would be an hour if you could possibly arrange a tour for our class. Thanks anyway
Just a few things that may or may not be of interest. My dad used to make GRP model yachts so I spent a fair few hours in my childhood holding the resin tin and watching watching watching: 1) When you have cut your cloth laminate layer, consider making a copy in parcel paper that you can use as a template for the next shell you make. You can mark the paper with weave orientation so you can get consistency and reduce cloth wastage. 2) This may not apply to the type of cloths and resins you are using but my dad had a roller that was basically a bunch of alternately big and small stainless steel washers on the roller rod. I think that this served to push the resin into the cloth and drive out any air, basically optimising the thickness and strength of each shell. He used a lot of chopped strand glass cloth and this roller put a pattern into the topmost layer of glass, optimising the grain. As I say, this may not apply to woven cloth. 3) Dunno if you have already designed this but you may want to put a flange into the mould of the other half so that the join is integral and thus stronger than a butt joint. The flange on the boat shells was a separate piece so that it could be removed to make extrication from the mould that bit easier. Cheers, Z
11:50 it's called warping, it can happen to any large print but most commonly happens with abs. You have a very large print surface so I suggest cranking you're bed temp up to around 80-how ever far it'll go. Should do the trick
Hello, carbon and glass have very different elongations. Carbon is really stiff and glass is able to flex quite a lot. If you combine galss with carbon in the same layup the glass is pretty much a dead weight, because it cannot elongate enough to take advanatage of it's strenght. By the time the glass elongates enough the carbon has already snaped in hlaf long time ago. It's better to stick with one or the other for the layup. Maybe you could experiment with some gelcoats for the molds. Might give you usable surface on some parts that you won't cut that many holes into. Keep up the good work!
Hi, Martin! :-) It gets a bit complicated because woven carbon-fibre blocks radio signals, so Ramy's mixing things up with fibreglass in the fuselage to ensure he can get a reliable RC link. In this case I think he's only using the carbon for stiffness and mass reduction on certain high stress points and relying on varying the weave orientation to avoid differential flex and (possible) delamination issues. Laying up wing spars for large (4 metre) RC gliders often involves combining fibreglass, carbon-fibre, and wrapped aramid (Kevlar) in the same mould. As long as you get the epoxy saturation percentages correct and the weave directions aligned properly (usually crossed at 45 degrees to the longitudinal axis) there aren't any problems with the different properties of the materials. In my experience it's beneficial to mix the different materials' properties when constructing spars, and the end result is tougher (but not lighter) than an all-carbon design. Ramy's done a lot of work with composites, so I imagine he's sticking with what he knows will work for him.
Hi @@EleanorPeterson , you probably didn't understand what I meant. I know that carbon absorbs radio waves, but one layer of glass on top of carbon structure will not suddenly make it radio transparent. I'm saying that if you combine glass and carbon in same layup, the glass is basically dead weight, because it doesn't contribute on transferring the load as much as the carbon, that has elongation smaller by an order of magnitude. I'm only commenting on what I know from my experience as aircraft technician and from university classes. Lastly, just to stay in correct terms. I follow Ramy for some time and I admire his work, but he still has a lot to learn about composite structures. And there's nothing wrong about that, we all still have something new to learn, I'm just trying to help.
12:06 3D printers are known to warp the print a little sometimes. Also could be bed warp. One of the ways to reduce it is to use a glass bed on the printer.
Ramy, what you are experimenting with the molds peeling is indeed material contracting, higher temperatures actually make it worse as the delta against the environment temperature is higher. This is easily fixed with enclosures for printing. (Eliminates air currents and keeps temperatures even across long prints) You might have noticed that warping is so much worse during nights or winters
I really hope when you finish this one that you design your own airliner and build it. You have such a gift and I bet you have learned so much that you can improve so much from the originals. I look forward to seeing Ramy Airlines -001.
Good luck Ramy. Can't wait for this one... PLA tend to shrink when cooling especially at the corners. When I print PLA I use 20mm brim. The brim lifts sometime but the print stays. In addition, I also use UHU glue stick on the build plate which holds the print very strong
id never even considered the fact these large rc models were fiberglass and carbon fibre before i found this channel. I always assumed the large models would be over the weight limits and need no end of paper work but im considering getting a 3D printer now lol. Ive always wanted one and this would be as good a reason as any to get one
thank you for showing modeling, I will slow down so I can see it better. awesome stuff. What filament are you using and what glue to adhere the pieces?
Amazing work. I am into radio sailing and build high performance race yachts but what you are doing - stunning. Small tip - when working with wet Epoxy make sure to wear Nitril gloves. Latex gloves do not protect you are vapors get through. Epoxy is really, really bad for you as I can say from 1st hand experience having developed a severe allergy over time working with Epoxy.
@12:18: I have the same problem with large prints too, what I've found works well is to model large diameter circular "feet" on the corners, then apply glue stick to the print bed where those feet will print. The feet will hold onto those glue spots and wont allow the print to warp up
He won’t. It’s such a waste. He will probably also cover cover with vinyl. Customs builds such a nice plane and then finishes the like crap. I don’t understand why he doesn’t paint them and use real turbines. Make no sense.
@@Señorscuba running 4 gas turbines creates a completely new set of issues for no real gain. EDF’s work well, sound great and are far less complicated.
Hi Ramy I always like your video's. For the 3 mm gap in the 3D models due to the print getting a little bit of the buildplate, I always clean my bluidplate which is a glass one. I do this with Dreft (I don't know if it also exists in Germany) and then I rinse it like doing the dishes. After that I dry it with tissues. When I put the buildpate back in place I remove the dust which is laying on top of it and then I spray it with 3DLAC adhesive spray. Carefull not to much otherwise it is very difficult to remove the print when it's done:) I have experience. My printer settings with PLA are printbed temperature: 60 degrees celsius and my nozzle temperature is 200-210 degrees celsius. I don't know if you already do this but otherwise you can try it maybe. The most important part: keep doing what you're doing because I'm freaking loving it!!!!
As always, great work ramy. Have you tried using giroidal infill for the 3d printed mold? I think it may give enough strenght to make it withstand a vacuming process, it may help get rid of the small boubles. Gyroidal infill gives theorically an omnidirectional strenght to the part.
I'd like to see Ramy design and build Mike Patey's "Draco" A 680 hp turboprop PZL-104 Wilga 2000. now that would be an awesome build. And I bet Mike would be happy to assist with any and all questions.
Hey Ramy, awesome build-log, thanks for sharing it! The thing with the molds peeling off the print bed might be what they call warping. Had the same and it was annoying as hell, so I put a FR4 Plate onto the glass plate. That's the same material they make PCBs of and it helps A LOT with the adhesion, no glue, no tape required and warping is totally gone :))) Just keep the glass plate underneath as the GFK might be a bit uneven and the glass will help to level it perfectly well! Another nice trick: using octoprint on a Raspberry Pi to control the printer from your PC, but that's a whole other story ;)
Alright.....we are now off and running with the A-380......This will be a great build !......But don't forget, the next build......the Antonov An-225 Mriya !.....Love your work ! Fantastic !
I love the 3D printed molds, I must try that for my next composite project! I'd love to know what kind of thick primer that is you used. Looks like it worked well. Congrats on yet another amazing project!
With that mold shirnking, try putting a heat insulated cover over the printer. A styrofoam casing helped me with keeping the inside of the printer warm to prevent warping
The wing root curve on the A380 is sooo distinctive and beautiful. Can’t wait to see that emerge. Airbus has a video of full size wing construction in UK that is incredible. The main structural element is CNC’d from an immense solid. Fuel tanks are the actual wing. Simply amazing technology. So sad it will have been such a flash in the pan. .
Probably a good idea to print in an enclosure (even in a cardboard box, just keep an eye on it) to keep temperatures stable and prevent moisture absorption.
hello ramy, About your mold, apply about 10mm brim for the adhesion. and befor every new print, clean the bed properly with isopropanol that should do the job. if not, that means the room temperature is very cold. i wish you best of luck! cant wait to see it when its done.
If you want avoid shrink and detach at the base of the mold, use a very large brim in the slicer to fix the piece and use and use paper glue (like Pritt) on the printer plate... Works for me... Anyway, outstanding craftmanship... 👍
Once again you amaze. I was doing similar but very small trainers around 25 years ago but no printers, all hand made craft wood moulds. You techniques are a major improvement. Keep it up, love your videos.
Outstanding craftsmanship Ramy! Your extreme mastery of this skill is utmost impressive! “With a wave of Ramy’s resin roller, his wizardry commands raw material into airborne creatures.”
Missed you for a while there. You are such a great model designer. You are doing so much work for each plane, but I LOVE to watch you working hard ;) GREAT work!
I consider completing an ARF plane a reasonable accomplishment for myself. What you do is truly amazing, artistic geometry. Thank you so very much for sharing.
Try to the print the PLA at a lower bed temperature or even with no heated bed at all. Less likely to deattach from the bed. Keep up your fantastic work!
Hi Ramy! I may have a solution for you! A high bed temperature could prevent warping of the print. But if that doesn’t work you could try an adhesive spray. I use 3DLAC, it’s honestly so good. Never had warping ever again not even with ABS. Awesome build video!
12:00 If you aren't having any luck with a glue stick to keep your prints stuck to the bed try printing with a large brim? also with such long prints you should build a cabinet so the temperature remains constant (my cabinet is a constant 30c)
I'm very excited to watch full series of building the A380 flight. Fortunately, one-time I've fly A380 to Dubai which is unforgettable.. You are clearly explaining every point of building the flight.. Thank you so much for your efforts..!!❤️
How about building a military jet or maybe one of the proposed experimentals that Airbus and Boeing are always showing. The sonic cruiser would be great!
Very good moulding technique, I hope you build carbon fiber wing spars, the full size ones were built in 3 sections each 10m long and the wing skins were one piece 30m long !
I am excited to watch the build process for this one. Great work indeed. Very cool how your technique has improved and evolved over such a short period.
Indeed work Ramy! A cool small project would be to build small little push pack tugs and baggage carts and stuff like that! I think it would go well with these planes!
You never cease to amaze. Can't wait to see the completed model! The 380 is one of my new favorite aircraft after flying BA LEA to/from London/LA a few years ago. The flight was truly one of the best I've ever flown on.
you need to be kinda brave and reaaallllyyy patient to work for over a month for a result of 18 minutes. Of-course you have fun and get to keep the beauty forever, but hats off to you Ramy!
Nice work! for the 3d printer issue you could try cleaning the bed with alcohol, this resolved all my adhesion issues (although I'm not printing massive parts like you).
I'm excited to finish this one 😍
YEES
And I'm excited to follow along by watching your video's! Awesome as always and thanks for sharing!
Nice broo👍
When will you complete it
Yes
You will not stop until you can ride them, also 2kg for that entire piece??? I need to learn your magic man!!
Nice job on the binky mini wheel arches, funny to see so the cool creators crossovers
Thanks buddy, I'm sure I can ride this one on the taxi way! that's the carbon fiber magic my friend.
Ramy: my work would be easier If I got a 2 meters 3D printer.
Ivan: I am building a 3D printer 2 meters in length.
Ramy: Great I must get one.
(1 Week later)
Ramy: My next project is a 3 meters Airplane.
Ivan: I got your back bro.
Carbon fiber is stupid light man
It will be far lighter if entirely cast with carbon fiber i guess?
This really deserves a lot more attention, no really. You put in months of work into your models, good work
And then he barely fly them, we can't enjoy the finished result :(
@@wololo10 yeah true
he could build a moon rocket in seconds LOL electric!!
Looking forward to seeing this finished Ramy!
I work for Rolls-Royce, and used to build the Trent 900's. If you're ever in the UK I'd be happy to give you a tour.
Hi mitch i know its a bit of a long shot and im currently studying engineering at college and it would be an hour if you could possibly arrange a tour for our class. Thanks anyway
Just a few things that may or may not be of interest. My dad used to make GRP model yachts so I spent a fair few hours in my childhood holding the resin tin and watching watching watching:
1) When you have cut your cloth laminate layer, consider making a copy in parcel paper that you can use as a template for the next shell you make. You can mark the paper with weave orientation so you can get consistency and reduce cloth wastage.
2) This may not apply to the type of cloths and resins you are using but my dad had a roller that was basically a bunch of alternately big and small stainless steel washers on the roller rod. I think that this served to push the resin into the cloth and drive out any air, basically optimising the thickness and strength of each shell. He used a lot of chopped strand glass cloth and this roller put a pattern into the topmost layer of glass, optimising the grain. As I say, this may not apply to woven cloth.
3) Dunno if you have already designed this but you may want to put a flange into the mould of the other half so that the join is integral and thus stronger than a butt joint. The flange on the boat shells was a separate piece so that it could be removed to make extrication from the mould that bit easier.
Cheers,
Z
Amazing!!! Next the queen of the skies, 747-8i please!!🤩
Korean livery 😉
11:50 it's called warping, it can happen to any large print but most commonly happens with abs. You have a very large print surface so I suggest cranking you're bed temp up to around 80-how ever far it'll go. Should do the trick
Or build a raft and clamp the outer areas to the bed
Also a heated build volume will help
@@abyssalreclass yes but a heated build volume would be a bit tricky and maybe for some, expensive to install
I'm curious how you will put 22 landing gears on this plane.Looks amazing!
5 sets with 22 wheels actually
@@hueyrosayaga yup, my bad, thanks:)
Can't wait for the landing gears, those are my favorite part
My favorite part is when he install lights
Hello, carbon and glass have very different elongations. Carbon is really stiff and glass is able to flex quite a lot. If you combine galss with carbon in the same layup the glass is pretty much a dead weight, because it cannot elongate enough to take advanatage of it's strenght. By the time the glass elongates enough the carbon has already snaped in hlaf long time ago. It's better to stick with one or the other for the layup.
Maybe you could experiment with some gelcoats for the molds. Might give you usable surface on some parts that you won't cut that many holes into.
Keep up the good work!
Hi, Martin! :-) It gets a bit complicated because woven carbon-fibre blocks radio signals, so Ramy's mixing things up with fibreglass in the fuselage to ensure he can get a reliable RC link.
In this case I think he's only using the carbon for stiffness and mass reduction on certain high stress points and relying on varying the weave orientation to avoid differential flex and (possible) delamination issues.
Laying up wing spars for large (4 metre) RC gliders often involves combining fibreglass, carbon-fibre, and wrapped aramid (Kevlar) in the same mould. As long as you get the epoxy saturation percentages correct and the weave directions aligned properly (usually crossed at 45 degrees to the longitudinal axis) there aren't any problems with the different properties of the materials.
In my experience it's beneficial to mix the different materials' properties when constructing spars, and the end result is tougher (but not lighter) than an all-carbon design.
Ramy's done a lot of work with composites, so I imagine he's sticking with what he knows will work for him.
Hi @@EleanorPeterson ,
you probably didn't understand what I meant. I know that carbon absorbs radio waves, but one layer of glass on top of carbon structure will not suddenly make it radio transparent. I'm saying that if you combine glass and carbon in same layup, the glass is basically dead weight, because it doesn't contribute on transferring the load as much as the carbon, that has elongation smaller by an order of magnitude.
I'm only commenting on what I know from my experience as aircraft technician and from university classes.
Lastly, just to stay in correct terms. I follow Ramy for some time and I admire his work, but he still has a lot to learn about composite structures. And there's nothing wrong about that, we all still have something new to learn, I'm just trying to help.
12:06 3D printers are known to warp the print a little sometimes. Also could be bed warp. One of the ways to reduce it is to use a glass bed on the printer.
I am a A380 pilot and this model you have built is completely accurate! Well done!😄
I was waiting for this one..😍😍😍
Next antonov 225🤟😁
Or maybe go for something a bit different, a turbo prop like an A400 or C-130
@@Smokeyr67 Let Mr. Ramy decide as our demands won't get stoped 😁
Me tomi love airbus
YEAAH
@@Smokeyr67 I wish it was a Transall ! Tactical landig, almost STOL ....
"Your gonna need a bigger shop"
I was expecting this one for a long time. Finally its here. So excited about the A380
Craftsmanship at its finest. Thanks for sharing the whole process. Its amazing how much you put into these builds.
What do you do with the molds after?
I watched you make the original a380 years ago, and ive been hooked ever since, your skills are great
Two astronauts looking out window on space station.
"Look at the huge plane"
Oh, that's just Ramy flying one of his models".....
@PLATINUM 08 r/wooooosh
A tip to help your prints not peel is crank the temp up for the first couple layers and use a brim. The brim will be a lifesaver.
I was spoiled by your other plane vids. Start to finish videos, now the anticipation will kill me 🤣
Ramy, what you are experimenting with the molds peeling is indeed material contracting, higher temperatures actually make it worse as the delta against the environment temperature is higher. This is easily fixed with enclosures for printing. (Eliminates air currents and keeps temperatures even across long prints) You might have noticed that warping is so much worse during nights or winters
Yes I've been waiting for this for soooooooo long!
You forgot to put an "a" between the "w" and "t"
I really hope when you finish this one that you design your own airliner and build it. You have such a gift and I bet you have learned so much that you can improve so much from the originals. I look forward to seeing Ramy Airlines -001.
That is a lot of work there, Good luck to your project!
Ramy rc good luck with your a380 and it doesent end up like the 787!
When you finish, you have to put both of your A-380s for a quick size comparison!❤️
Good luck Ramy. Can't wait for this one... PLA tend to shrink when cooling especially at the corners. When I print PLA I use 20mm brim. The brim lifts sometime but the print stays. In addition, I also use UHU glue stick on the build plate which holds the print very strong
YASSS RAMY I AM SO EXCITED FOR THIS BUILD. AWESOME NEWS TO WAKE UP TO.
id never even considered the fact these large rc models were fiberglass and carbon fibre before i found this channel. I always assumed the large models would be over the weight limits and need no end of paper work but im considering getting a 3D printer now lol. Ive always wanted one and this would be as good a reason as any to get one
thank you for showing modeling, I will slow down so I can see it better. awesome stuff. What filament are you using and what glue to adhere the pieces?
He used the Akfix glue and he uses P.L.A. Filament, watch his other videos he will say it in some parts!
I use 5 minutes epoxy and sometimes superglue.
Amazing work. I am into radio sailing and build high performance race yachts but what you are doing - stunning. Small tip - when working with wet Epoxy make sure to wear Nitril gloves. Latex gloves do not protect you are vapors get through. Epoxy is really, really bad for you as I can say from 1st hand experience having developed a severe allergy over time working with Epoxy.
Thank you for the advice
I can’t wait to see this in the sky. Love the video keep it up 👍
@12:18: I have the same problem with large prints too, what I've found works well is to model large diameter circular "feet" on the corners, then apply glue stick to the print bed where those feet will print. The feet will hold onto those glue spots and wont allow the print to warp up
I know planes are your thing, but have you ever considered creating a boat such as a superyacht or cruise ship? Or even a seaplane
This is gonna be next level. Such a huge project. The next episode you need to choose a subscriber as a passenger. Such a cool build.
Please use actual fuel engines for this! I know electrical ones are easier etc.. but aaaaa I rly would love to see real turbine driven ones!
He won’t. It’s such a waste. He will probably also cover cover with vinyl. Customs builds such a nice plane and then finishes the like crap. I don’t understand why he doesn’t paint them and use real turbines. Make no sense.
@@Señorscuba what’s bad about vinyl? I think if you are good at using it you get much better results than with paint. But that is just my opinion
@@Señorscuba running 4 gas turbines creates a completely new set of issues for no real gain. EDF’s work well, sound great and are far less complicated.
@@Smokeyr67 one answer is sound period. And you don’t have to use 4 you can use two engines in the inner and dummy fans on the outers.
@@Señorscuba And turbines are way more expensive than edfs
Thank you ! Ramy RC very much
For the engine's will you use fuel for this Airbus
I wish because 4 of those will cost around 1 mil or 100 thousand
Yea he probably wont since they are to expensive
With the current crisis, this one will be one of the few A380 that we will see in the skies now.
Perfect timing Ramy! I'm just starting out on a project using the same methods as you! Excited to see your A380 come together.
What is going on with your project?
Hi Ramy I always like your video's. For the 3 mm gap in the 3D models due to the print getting a little bit of the buildplate, I always clean my bluidplate which is a glass one. I do this with Dreft (I don't know if it also exists in Germany) and then I rinse it like doing the dishes. After that I dry it with tissues. When I put the buildpate back in place I remove the dust which is laying on top of it and then I spray it with 3DLAC adhesive spray. Carefull not to much otherwise it is very difficult to remove the print when it's done:) I have experience. My printer settings with PLA are printbed temperature: 60 degrees celsius and my nozzle temperature is 200-210 degrees celsius. I don't know if you already do this but otherwise you can try it maybe.
The most important part: keep doing what you're doing because I'm freaking loving it!!!!
As always, great work ramy.
Have you tried using giroidal infill for the 3d printed mold? I think it may give enough strenght to make it withstand a vacuming process, it may help get rid of the small boubles. Gyroidal infill gives theorically an omnidirectional strenght to the part.
I'd like to see Ramy design and build Mike Patey's "Draco" A 680 hp turboprop PZL-104 Wilga 2000. now that would be an awesome build. And I bet Mike would be happy to assist with any and all questions.
I can't wait for see the full body assembly 😍😍😍😍😍😍❤️❤️
Wow that thing is HUGE. Imagine of you build the AN 225. Well you never know what the future holds.
Hey, is this(making mind blowing model planes) your source of income or you just do it as a hobby?
Hey Ramy, awesome build-log, thanks for sharing it!
The thing with the molds peeling off the print bed might be what they call warping. Had the same and it was annoying as hell, so I put a FR4 Plate onto the glass plate. That's the same material they make PCBs of and it helps A LOT with the adhesion, no glue, no tape required and warping is totally gone :)))
Just keep the glass plate underneath as the GFK might be a bit uneven and the glass will help to level it perfectly well!
Another nice trick: using octoprint on a Raspberry Pi to control the printer from your PC, but that's a whole other story ;)
My reaction is exactly the same as when I see an actual A380: "That's a big boat!"
Alright.....we are now off and running with the A-380......This will be a great build !......But don't forget, the next build......the Antonov An-225 Mriya !.....Love your work ! Fantastic !
would be too sad if only one piece is crafted out of your awesome molds and never used again
Glade to see you are using a roller to apply the resin. It makes for a much smoother finish.
I love the 3D printed molds, I must try that for my next composite project! I'd love to know what kind of thick primer that is you used. Looks like it worked well. Congrats on yet another amazing project!
With that mold shirnking, try putting a heat insulated cover over the printer. A styrofoam casing helped me with keeping the inside of the printer warm to prevent warping
Wow that much time just to print and assemble the molds oo
maybe 1 Month
Finally, thanks Ramy for starting this A380 build. Love your videos
nice work ramy!
Thanks Vince.
The wing root curve on the A380 is sooo distinctive and beautiful. Can’t wait to see that emerge.
Airbus has a video of full size wing construction in UK that is incredible. The main structural element is CNC’d from an immense solid. Fuel tanks are the actual wing. Simply amazing technology. So sad it will have been such a flash in the pan. .
ohh 😍 finally 380 😍 good luck! / big 747 next? 😬
Probably a good idea to print in an enclosure (even in a cardboard box, just keep an eye on it) to keep temperatures stable and prevent moisture absorption.
I'm in awe at how much work is involved in making this thing.
hello ramy, About your mold, apply about 10mm brim for the adhesion. and befor every new print, clean the bed properly with isopropanol that should do the job. if not, that means the room temperature is very cold. i wish you best of luck! cant wait to see it when its done.
If you want avoid shrink and detach at the base of the mold, use a very large brim in the slicer to fix the piece and use and use paper glue (like Pritt) on the printer plate... Works for me... Anyway, outstanding craftmanship... 👍
I haven't watched this channel in a while but this was the plane I was always begging for him to build I'm starting to watch again
Once again you amaze. I was doing similar but very small trainers around 25 years ago but no printers, all hand made craft wood moulds. You techniques are a major improvement. Keep it up, love your videos.
I can’t believe the skill you have - you are a true master craftsman.
Outstanding craftsmanship Ramy! Your extreme mastery of this skill is utmost impressive! “With a wave of Ramy’s resin roller, his wizardry commands raw material into airborne creatures.”
I never get tired of watching these builds. So glad to see a new one. Like the new shop too!
Missed you for a while there. You are such a great model designer. You are doing so much work for each plane, but I LOVE to watch you working hard ;)
GREAT work!
Thank you my friend, I think you should try to build something!
"Bob Ross" in 2021! Great to watch sir! Thank you for your awesome videos
I consider completing an ARF plane a reasonable accomplishment for myself. What you do is truly amazing, artistic geometry. Thank you so very much for sharing.
Maybe placing your printing in an enclosure will help against warping prints. Great video cant wait for more
Helo... I'm subcriber from indonesian.... I like your creativity... good luck
I love watching you build your RC planes. That plane is going to be huge. I cannot wait to see it completed.
Try to the print the PLA at a lower bed temperature or even with no heated bed at all. Less likely to deattach from the bed. Keep up your fantastic work!
Hi Ramy! I may have a solution for you! A high bed temperature could prevent warping of the print. But if that doesn’t work you could try an adhesive spray. I use 3DLAC, it’s honestly so good. Never had warping ever again not even with ABS. Awesome build video!
12:00 If you aren't having any luck with a glue stick to keep your prints stuck to the bed try printing with a large brim? also with such long prints you should build a cabinet so the temperature remains constant (my cabinet is a constant 30c)
I'm stoked to watch this A380 come together, and it's going to be an absolute monster. Can't wait for the next video!
12.15 use glue stick for better adhesion and it will fix this :)
That AutoCAD work is amazing.
I'm very excited to watch full series of building the A380 flight. Fortunately, one-time I've fly A380 to Dubai which is unforgettable.. You are clearly explaining every point of building the flight.. Thank you so much for your efforts..!!❤️
Airbus has just stopped making his last A380 last week ? No way ! Rami is taking over !!
About 11:50 The Warping of PLA is really annoying, make sure to leave your bed heat on, that should prevent the issue!
How about building a military jet or maybe one of the proposed experimentals that Airbus and Boeing are always showing. The sonic cruiser would be great!
Such extraordinary workmanship translates into exceptional R/C models. You really are a master!
This A380 is going to be a beast of a plane can’t wait to see it done
one of my must watch channels
Very good moulding technique, I hope you build carbon fiber wing spars, the full size ones were built in 3 sections each 10m long and the wing skins were one piece 30m long !
I am excited to watch the build process for this one. Great work indeed. Very cool how your technique has improved and evolved over such a short period.
Indeed work Ramy! A cool small project would be to build small little push pack tugs and baggage carts and stuff like that! I think it would go well with these planes!
Dude you should build like scale military jets or scale propeller planes. This is sweet and I can’t wait to see it finished
You never cease to amaze.
Can't wait to see the completed model!
The 380 is one of my new favorite aircraft after flying BA LEA to/from London/LA a few years ago.
The flight was truly one of the best I've ever flown on.
Question: What are the deciding factors in determining the size of your aircraft? In this case it is 1:21 but why?
you need to be kinda brave and reaaallllyyy patient to work for over a month for a result of 18 minutes. Of-course you have fun and get to keep the beauty forever, but hats off to you Ramy!
This is a lot of hard work and huge dedication from your side, Great work Ramy!
The King Of The Skies is getting built!!!
Awesome.... I guess this is the craziest project among all your works.... We wanna see the gigantic Airbus flying soon
Nice work! for the 3d printer issue you could try cleaning the bed with alcohol, this resolved all my adhesion issues (although I'm not printing massive parts like you).
Am I surprised about your new project? Nooooo.....you are beyond amazing!
Ramy, you are an inspiration to the whole world.