Trying to FIX: Faulty Xbox One X No Display
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2024
- Hi, in this video I attempt to fix a faulty Xbox One X which doesn't display on the television. I purchased it from a viewer named Myron who has attempted some work on the HDMI Retimer Chip. I need to replace the HDMI chip and also 3 missing components. This is the full length version. If you want the quick version please see • Trying to FIX: Faulty ...
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.
I actually poured myself some coffee to watch a guy repair an Xbox One X, just like a movie or Netflix series.... and I love it!
Welcome to the club
It's the best watching him.
Marcio Del Bianco I poured some tea.🫖
Cant play it fix it 👍
instaBlaster
19:30
The funny thing about those tiny components is that when you want them to stay on they'll fly off from the force of a mosquito's fart.
However, when you WANT to take them off a board they're attached with some kind of titanium alloy solder that demands a tube of flux, 5000 degree temps and 4 hours work per component.
The joy of fixing electronics, haha.
I knocked off a couple 1mm resistors and a capacitor off my 60GB PS3 and the came off with the slightest tap. When *trying* to take off their neighbor components (same exact components) it was nearly impossible 😅
Lmaoo !
Also I was wondering something about the components you put in place. How do they actually set themselves in place ? I thought that you just had to place them well and put heat on them for several minues and that's all but in this video Vince mentionned that the components were doing a "little dance" etc. Also it moved and a second later he said "there we go it's in place". That's the part I don't get, how does it goes from moving to strongly attached in a second ? Thanks !
Always love these repair videos. As a software / hardware IT guy for most of my life I have so much respect for people who can deal with these tiny components. Would love to learn it.
Amazing well done enjoy the console I think the HDD might need replacing but well done and also amazing video as normal ❤️
Nice one for suggesting it to vince for the video 😁👌
Oh for crying out loud, started watching the quick version!!! Ruined my whole evening.
I wish you had a P.O. Box so I could send you some stuff that I can't be bothered to fix.
Thanks for the videos Vince.
The quick version will get ya quickly. Gotta keep on your toes. 😃
I did the same! I though, hmmm, this new format is garbage... Very few ear piercing continuity beeps, no pinging microscopic components across the room, no joy of fault discovery or sudden realisation of what everyone else was screaming at the screen for 5 minutes ;-)
It didn't make for good viewing at all. I like all those things and more, even the ear blasting beeps. I watched it anyway, then saw it was the 'Quick Version'. Thank goodness the original format remains unchanged! Phew.
LMAO I realized I started the quick version. I quickly paused and went into the description and got the link to full. I love the full versions
That is why I don't watch the quick versions.
As for PO Box, Vince would end up with loads of rubbish in there very quickly and have to collect very often not to mention do tip runs lol
I did the exact same with my XboneX, regarding snapping that connector on top of the motherboard. I literally left it in place, screwed it back down and it works fine. No problems with the USB/Sync etc. Seems like it's a really fiddly connector and easily breakable
Appreciate that the multimeter was a bit further away from the camera during continuity testing. That beep drives my wife insane, and indirectly through her frequent reminders, me too!
Stephen Arsenault 🤭
What a crazy ride of a fix. As seen you doing more and more Xboxes I'm looking forward to the Xbox Series X. Thanks for the entertainment.
Everytime Vince gets really happy, it makes me happy LOL
I love how when you replaced the resistors and capacitor, they were a little wonky, but as you heated the board to pull the broken hdmi chip off to replace it, when the leaded solder melted, the surface tension aligned them perfectly. MacGyvering the Sync button was just pure gold :)
i watch all your videos and i really enjoyed the addition of voiceover during the fastforwarding bits
you blow my mind every time i watch you repair stuff brilliant video as always
What a repair!! Well done. Never I will never risk like you to broke an working xbox to fix a broken one. What am determination
Great to see more trying to fix videos of modern electronics
I would not beat yourself up to much about it because at least you got it going. Nice one Vince.
Nice as usual job Vince, not sure I would have the guts to take components off a working machine like that, balls of steel!
Thanks Vince for another nice video. I suggest you two advices for hot air desoldering. If you don't wanna stress the board with hi temperature I add some low-melt solder to solder pads around the chip. (I bought it from Northridge fix and really changed my life...) and the last one... protect the board before using hot air. I use kapton tape or simple aluminium foil folded many times. You save a lot of time and no more damages to nearby components. Keep on your videos, you rock!
Excellent job VInce =D Nice idea just running a wire for that Sync button too! No one is going to miss the USB port!
Nothing better than a My Mate Vince video and a couple of beers.
I was that excited about the sync button working, great work, I hope to see your own Xbox working too again
Congrats in getting that Xbox One to work again. I look forwards to more fix it videos. I hope you are staying safe
the connector was originally faulty and glued to the board, tbh man you are the best in fixing stuff , you helped me fixing my both ps3/xbox 1 , keep going with your awesome videos.
The boot up animation isn't the correct one for the Xbox One X. Should show a screen that displays the processor with the 4k chip upon startup. The correct startup animation can easily be added by connecting the Hard Drive to a pc. Regards Dan
That's really odd
Wow, didn't know that. Thank you!
Sure that’s not just for the first boot?
No everytime you turn the console on unless set to instant on it should display the 4k chip before the xbox one screen. It's just partially missing the bootanim.dat or its had a replacement drive and the wrong one installed
Safe mode
Another great video Vince. The Bind and USB connector is always a tricky one to repair/replace, but well done for trying and getting the bind button to work
I can tell you that ripped connector does not rip easy like that I’ve taken apart my x atleast 4 times before and that connector is just fine by the looks of the traces were squeezed folded back after putting back together the first time so probably the other person did it
Carlos Sanchez pretty sure they just glued it on to look normal
Plenty of case removal vids for 1st timers. Unfortunately low iq morons tend to prefer to just dive into new tasks without any preparation or research. They probably hated doing their homework lol.
There's it's no residue indicating that they glued the connector back on I don't see any evidence of that and in my personal experience working on Xbox one and PlayStation 4 Microsoft tends to get less consistent when it comes to Manufacturing
@@lukereeves3711 Empty vessels make the most noise
This happened to me too, when I take apart my One X the second time. I really didn't push hard or sideways, so sometime it really go off easily. Luckily I managed to resolder it with one trace repaired and 2 or 3 missing (double ones) and it works again :)
I'm happy that you accept more defective products from viewers. It much better than getting scammed on eBay😂
This was a fantastic case study. Cheers to fixing the sync button. The sync button on a controller broke and I actually soldered it back on. I was lucky to see it break and find the damn button much less soldering back on. Currently working on an xbox one s and x with no display and good ports. I will try safe mode first since there's also like a debug mode for the usb update.
Adding low melt solder is very useful when trying to remove stubborn components like that HDMI chip, it lowers the melting point by a long way.
I like how you mixed in a couple voice overs during fast forwarding to explain what was going on.
So so into this vlog from start to the end i forgot to do my microwave popcorn, great recovery Vince !!!
Patience is the greatest tool, sadly I don't have any. Great video, thumbs up!
I totally agree, the One X is a great design; so great that I have never felt much of an urge to upgrade from it to a newer Xbox.
Hi. Great repair. You got there in the end. I think that you need some low melt solder or a board pre-heater to heat the underside of the board prior to working on the top side. Those ground planes sap the heat away so quickly and efficiently unfortunately.
I wish someone would make a compilation of every time Vince says "wow"
Great video vince it's amazing to think not all that long ago you were fearful of replacing chips and now are so much better 🙂
Great fix again vince I've started fixing xbox one controller's well I've put 4 0603 led s in mate's controller's and fixed a thumb shift them 0603 led s at first was a nightmare as done mine first think I lost abt 6 led s but the more I've done I'm better but still get the shake s
Well done Vince for a thoroughly entertaining video. Kind regards. Paul.
Nice one Vince! Was well happy for you when the sync button worked :)
Great job vince as always. Dont feel down about the connector, you made a great effort overall
That hard drive sounds like it needs replacing, it can still sort of work but i would replace it.
colandriel Oh yeah. I bet it won’t last much longer. It’s got the click of death.
@@Wally17. I've never heard that before (the click of death), though it fits the problem so I'm going to call it that from now on, thanks.
YOU GOT GAME, Vince!
You "are" the KING 🛐
34:36 "I've got the shakes" 😀 I don't know why I find it funny. Good video Vince.
ruclips.net/video/1Ke8mzgex4U/видео.html
You are so gud fixing console man.
And your the man. Even it so hard’ youve done it. How could be so great like you’
Would it be daft of me to ask if you checked the video settings at the start ? as the " FAULTY " display chip may not be faulty and was just down to the missing components :) and the previous owner not having a 1440p display and not knowing how to reset the Xbox.. Cheers for the video P.S the plug that broke looked very suspect to me ..
@@pineappleroad I agree but when vince plugged it in after replacing the components it didnt work untill he turned it off and went into 720p mode by holding down eject and power on button :) the setting had been set to 1440p and audio turned off in the settings menu and not auto :)
Great video as usual Vince, the USB and sync Lego connector looked previously damaged though so you shouldn't blame yourself for those and great fix for the sync button 👍
Great vid vince and well done on the repair. In the case of that connector and the pulled pads - what I've done in the past is use the strand core off a multi stranded wire, it's typically thinner than any enamel wire you can get off the shelf (earphone cables have some of the finest - albeit enameled wire that i can find which may be ideal for your purpose) then after soldering it in use something blunt - i use the round portion of one of those pointy dental picks to smoosh the copper wire down and gently stoke it, the copper is so maliable that it will eventually start smoothing flat (remember being copper it will also become more brittle) once it's as flat as you feel comfortable i coat in UV mask then when thats cured i flatten the mask down with 1000grit sandpaper to make it level with the rest of the board, heat up the topside of the board with your hot air gun for a few mins so it can absorb the heat and melt the solder, then place the connector down and hit it the back of the board with the gun - it should take now with that and lead free solder..... if not, get some 140c solder for next time, not ideal but better than nothing. The hard drive didn't sound healthy i'd plug into a pc and run some sort of integrity scan or disk tool to ensure it's not bad or a full format on the console iteself if possible. Thanks again :)
Great video and I love your creative fix for the sync button. Thanks!
Hi vince, tip when measuring low value resistors short your test probs together first and make a note of the reading this will be the resistance of your leads then take this off your reading of the low value resistor your measuring also i would invest in some fine tiped gold plated test leads there not that expensive from ebay.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20A-Gold-Plated-Multimeter-Test-Lead-Probe-Wire-Pen-Cable-Set-Kits-12-in-1/192804209714?hash=item2ce406c432:g:jIsAAOSwIABcSwJ5
What better video to watch while I try to fix my Xbox One controller :)
Okay, arguably watching one about a _controller_ would be better, but eh, close enough.
Great to see a new Xbox One repair
Hi Vince, why not use some low melt solder like Chip Quick on the legs of the chip to mix it with the unleaded factory solder and lower it's melting temperature? You could apply it with a soldering iron to the legs so that it mixes up good and then apply heat and take the chip off. I think it could save you time and prolonged exposure of the board to heat. I think Chip Quick has a melting temperature of 80-90 degrees and can really lower the overall melting temperature when mixed with the factory solder.
Смотрю и жду когда ты что нибудь сломаешь при отключение/подключение. На 5:15, лучший момент. Ты лучший) /
I look and wait when you break something when disconnecting / connecting. At 5:15, the best moment. You are the best)
2:25
Yeah, I'm not at all a "fanboy" but I game on Playstation due to have loved each since PS1. If I were wealthier I'd buy all consoles but I gotta get it right with one and Playstations tend to do that for me.
Thay said, I absolutely agree that the X1X is a very attractive device! Frankly, if they are ever fully jailbroken I'll buy one some day as they'd probably be amazing emulation machines.
I just get the xbox for there xbox game studios games and the controller. I also game on pc.
Great fix video Vince.
This channels is my new Netflix like someone else said hahaha , and when I do maintenance to my one x to be honest whit you that part you “break” it’s not that’s easy to break it it was broken before you buy it in POV , but men great and awesome work !
I LOL'd at the "have the balls" remark. Nice recovery from the FUBAR, Vince :)
Okay that definitely needs a new hdd but that's some great troubleshooting with that sync button. That went really well considering. Also I dont feel like you're the one who broke that connector. I think Myron knocked it loose when he opened it prior, and you just ended up finishing his job mate. But anyways, congrats on that workaround, that was genius.
As an electrical engineer I know hod much of a nightmare surface mount components are to try and replace or fix.
6:10 You pushed it sideways. I think
yep he twisted it before he pulled
Yeah
From what I could find out is that there is a possibility that connector that is attached with a lego style connector to the outside of the cage is potentially connected to the front USB port as the wireless modules are on its own PCB on the outside of the internal cage connected by either a ribbon cable or a pin header connector
Excellent job.... A little tip on the shakey hands, take a deep breathe, and that should relax the hands.
Kool channel, im a sheet metal fabricator, so love to make things, but I've never tried, soldiering or anything esle, What soldering kit is good people, i know taking chips off is totally different but love watching these
Well done mate! I really am impressed with your abilites. You mention your not a pro at this, to bad I think you would have made an excellent tech.
Especially when it's obvious that you really love what you do. I have one question for you though, what do you do with all the systems you fix. Do you
keep them (if so you must have a HUGE house) or do you give them away or sell them? Answer me back if you can.
He probably keeps the one he's never bought. Say he didnt have a ps4 and he fixed a ps4 he would likely keep it. The rest he probably sells.
Hi Vince,
As always I enjoyed your video.
I just had a thought about the broken connector. It might be a good idea to get a new connector and just using whatever pads is left on the motherboard to hold it. It sure is better then a bodge wire. And also as you mentioned some pads are just grounds. And from what I understand USB don't need all those pins to work, so maybe you are lucky that the ones you need is still on there.
OH happy Sunday ! Thanks mate !
You gotta remember that you needed the ground connected as well as the sync button, probably it was connected via the screws, but if it didn't you would need to connect another wire carrying the ground
Well done Vince! Two comments here:
1- The HDD definitely needs to be replaced.
2- We see no evidence of the faulty board’s retimer chip being faulty. How did you come to that conclusion? I would try putting it in your console before ordering one to see what happens. My feeling is that the entire issue here is an HDD issue and nothing else
You are definitely correct, not sure why he didn’t just replace the HDD
@@mattw2072 May have shortened the video by 40 minutes and saved replacing components that didn't need to be replaced if he had just plugged it in at the start?
The best of Home-fixing!!!!
We can tell how many people love the long version because it gets more views. Me included.
always enjoy your vids vince!
I did the same with my sync connector not as bad as that it never came off the pads I put a jumper wire from the tiny capacitor under the sync button to pin number 1 on the board and I got the sync button working the usb dont work but I dont care as I got a usb hub and the sync is what's important good video keep up the good work its through watching your videos that inspired me to do what I did top bloke Vince thumbs up to you
You could use tiny wires from something like a usb cable shielding or just multi-threaded tiny cable to solder those pins for the connector. I've done it - it works absolutely fine.
Well done , Think it's time to to get some 0.01 mm and 0.0.2 mm jumper wire 0.1mm is just to thick 😂 It`s used for jumpers on the iphone, Great video 👍
Cheers AR. 5 or 10 times smaller!!!! 0.1mm is already hard enough to manage. Do you think 0.01 or 0.02mm be OK for something like a USB port on the power pins or would it likely burn through. I presume on data lines it would be OK? I might get some :-)
@@Mymatevince for data pins should be fine, power pins usually uses more pins connected together 0.01mm is about 17mA an 0.02mm 33ma
Vince what I would suggest I know it would have been more work, but think I would suggest doing wires for all the pins on the USB next time, that way it will reflow level, plus would also connect all the pins evenly, I know plastic is the worst thing to have around a heat gun, and electronics as plastic melts way more easier. great fix video, I am wondering whether the one capacitor would be 1ohm seen as the one on your board came up as 1.25 ohm, and the 2 ohm that you fitted came up as 2.25 ohm. as an outsider guess and not knowing too much about electronics, apart from knowing some basics, basically car maintenance from the early 90's.
Vince is back !!
Never thought i would be the first to a video like this based on the comments
Good piece of engineering... 6mins in blue tooth breaks off with no effort.
You may wish to watch a few "Northridge Fix" videos if you have not done so already. He uses a combination of soldering flux, low melt solder and solder braid. Using this technique he is typically able to remove and replace "chips" with relatively low temps and low air flow with minimal impact to surrounding components. Cheers
Ohhh that YES love it
Good work mate you have done it again 👌 🤜🤛
Just a couple of tips: if you are a right-handed person I would suggest you to hold the hot air gun with the left hand and tweezers with the right one. You don't really need any precision in pointing the nozzle towards the board - 1 cm to the side won't make things worse. But you could surely benefit from holding the tweezers with your right hand, this makes a difference (IMO). And the second one - sharpen your tweezers with some file or a piece of sand paper, this helps a lot. Of course it's easier just to buy some new precision tweezers to work with SMDs, but if you already have those just by sharpening them you could save some money.
Vince you are too heavy handed, same thing with the 2ds plastic that cracked... Slow down and take your time!
"Hammer" the wire. Make it flat just like a board trace. Then you will see the advantages. The 2 wires from the left can be routed from outside. There was no reason for them to be underneath. Try again with the idea that I gave
FYI if you need even thin wire you can take it from old cheap headphones they are also coated and won't short
Hey Vince. If your wire is causing the connection to be too raised from the other pads just put a bit of wire on all the pads. Not really an option for a larger number of pads but i think you could make it work here.
Wow. What a journey. Just brilliant.
file down the ends of your hot tweezers Vince... They come in all kinds of ends so I did the same to mine and they work much better now that they are finer.
Another good fix to bad it broke in that one spot that connection seemed like it was almost glued on there
The only thing I would of liked to see is you test the empty pads where the resistors went since you didn't take the resistors off to test their values. If the empty pads had given you a higher resistance reading you would of known your resistor readings were right. If they had given you the same or lower reading you would have known you was getting false readings and would have to take the resistors off to measure them properly.
I had similar issue with connector heat from behind helped to mount it back... Got broken console with prior repair... person ripped off connector and cable on half....
Hello there Vince, a little advice for measuring low resistances. You have to take into account the resistance of the measuring leads of the multimeter they are usually long thin wires so they count as parte of the measured circuit. If you are measuring high values such as 10k the low resistance of the leads in series will not affect the circuit that much, but a 1ohm resistor is basically the same resistance as the leads it self, so you can short the leads before measuring to get a value for the resistance of the leads. Lets say you short the leads and get a value of 1.1 ohms. Than you measure the 1ohm resistor and get 2.1 ohms. Than you know the resistor is exactly 1ohm. If you get a 1.5ohms measurement on the other resistor, than it means that the resistor is 0.4 ohms, which is indeed basically a short.
That 1 ohm resistor in this particular circuit is just a bridge to connect the chip pin into another IC. You also connected a 10k resistor into that same pin and ground. The 10k resistor connected to ground is meant to give the pin what is called a pull-down, it prevents the pin to be "floating". A floating pin is a pin not connected to anything which has a fluctuating voltage from the air and surrounding circuit because of electromagnetism and electrostatic.
When the IC connected to the pin through the 1ohm resistor gives it power we call the pin HIGH, when the IC stops giving it voltage the pin goes LOW because the 10k resistor pulls the voltage to ground (zero volts).
When the IC gives voltage (3.3V) to the pin, Both resistors are pulling the pin at the same time, one pulling it HIGH (3.3V) and the other pulling it LOW (GND), however when you get both of them pulling at the same time the lower value resistor pulls it harder and the voltage is pulled closer to the HIGH value (3.3V). However if both resistors were of the same value, lets say 2k, then they both pull the pin with the same force which means that the voltage gets divided (1.65V). That is why one value has to be 10 thousand times greater than the other. That way it only pulls with enough force to counteract the effects of electrostatic and electromagnetism so that the pin is not floating.
The 10K can either be pulled LOW (connected to GND) or to HIGH connected to (3.3V). that is the pull-up or pull-down resistor.
Every digital circuit has a pull-up or a pull-down resistor. If it is not on the PCB as a resistor than the pin of the IC has a internal pull-down/pull-up resistor.
You can probably trace the sync button trace from the button (the button connects to ground when pressed, so the resistor connected to it is pulling up when not pressed) into the IC pin that senses the button and somewhere in the circuit is probably a pull-up resistor, generally 10k into a 3.3V voltage rail.
Great job vince love your videos
Vince I know you like consoles but for gaming PC's are superior in every way
Nice.. APU I dropped a like.. BTW C16 looked like it had a lot of corrosion around it..
"Fallout 2" is the first thing that came to mind when he said "Myron" :)
Sir, thank you so very much!
This is greatly appreciated!
its for the wireless controllers i done the exact same thing but i left it on the ribbon side of the cable and just screwed it back on tight and it works not had a problem with it since
Hopefully this showed you how helpful preheating can be :)
One thing I would say is I would apply flux after preheating, since if you do it before you might wear the flux out before you need it. Or you could just apply flux before and after, as long as you're okay with cleaning it up ;)
U deserve more views than what u r getting on this vid.. nice job bro
53:20 that put a smile on my face.
Hallo Vince may be you can try next time bend the pins on connector little bit of down. I think it can help with soldering if they are not in air.