According to codes in climate zones 4 and up, the vapor barrier has moved to the exterior of the wall, allowing a wall to dry from the inside out if encountered with moisture. Also, in a matter of opinion, I am a firm believer that blown in fiberglass in exterior walls is a much better insulator than cellulose. Proper gasket air-sealing technology when paired with blown-in fiberglass is nearly unsurpassable, even by foam standards, which only air-seals the interior of the cavity.
Uhh, what does it matter if it's "only" 2200 square feet, why spend more money heating less space even if you aren't using it? Just heat it and use it for storage
spraying foam between the window frame and weather barrier is a BAD idea you will still have air leakage between the weather barrier and framing allways aim for .06 @ 50 pascals or less if you cant contain it you cant control it
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2:02 Should gaps in the exterior wood be sealed prior to the insulation? Would a builder ever seal the gaps later from the outside?
Such a helpful video! Thanks for sharing.
5:26 7:33 You can see the pain in Larry's face when he insulates with fiberglass batts.
It should cover all the inside film to make a vapor barrier?
According to codes in climate zones 4 and up, the vapor barrier has moved to the exterior of the wall, allowing a wall to dry from the inside out if encountered with moisture. Also, in a matter of opinion, I am a firm believer that blown in fiberglass in exterior walls is a much better insulator than cellulose. Proper gasket air-sealing technology when paired with blown-in fiberglass is nearly unsurpassable, even by foam standards, which only air-seals the interior of the cavity.
always have an air barrier on insulated walls facing an attic. bare batts is old news.
Uhh, what does it matter if it's "only" 2200 square feet, why spend more money heating less space even if you aren't using it?
Just heat it and use it for storage
spraying foam between the window frame and weather barrier is a BAD idea you will still have air leakage between the weather barrier and framing allways aim for .06 @ 50 pascals or less if you cant contain it you cant control it