Wow! What a great verification of your hypothesis! I 100% agree that the o-ring was the 'root cause' of the engine failure. AMG engines are literally bullet proof and have had this reputation for a very long time. However, the long term lifespan, and under the extreme conditions that were placed on the engine in your car, accelerated its MTBF and voila, it failed. Sometimes, breaking something under extreme load is the best way to find out its core design flaws. Refurbishing to improve the flaw makes it even more robust, as you can now improve upon the flaw to make sure it doesn't happen again. Problem: Rubber o-ring for oil pump seal Solution: Choose silicone o-ring instead --> resists extreme temperature swings and is more resistant to hardening when exposed to oil than rubber. Second solution is to weld the pickup tube to the pump instead to make a permanent seal, because this is internal to the car and is literally the 'heart' of the engine's ability to stay lubricated and cooled under extreme temperatures, in the case of using the engine for a track car. Third solution is to use a lead seal (or soft metal) that won't deform with extreme temperature swings and is resistant to oil contamination. Use of a reliable oil pressure gauge is a very wise decision, because that you can measure is that which you can manage, especially to save your engine if possible at the moment of failure. Make sure that the oil pressure gauge is high in your line of sight if possible or as high as you can mount it on your dash without obstruction of view. Problem: Chain rubbing on engine block Solution: Install a Teflon chain slap guide/guard where the chain rubs on the engine block. Second solution could be to install a spring loaded, variable tension, tension pully bearing in line of where the chain would slap on the engine block to reduce the slack in the chain. This would also prevent metal fragments entering the engine and prevent premature failure of the engine and/or the chain. Looking forward to your follow up video on the solutions you chose to reassemble your engine and get your track car ready for the 2018 season. All the best!
To save on cost, best to buy new bearings and piston ring seals, for putting the engine back together. I think it will be as good as new and very reliable with the oil pump solution that is most robust for the engine. Keep up the good work!
diggleboy Rootcause confirmed. However o-rings are a bit more complex than being a piece of black rubber. The oil chemical composition together with heat accumulation over time can have a significant effect on o-ring condition. MB may have selected an inappropiate o-ring design for this application. More robust o-rings (thermal / chemical resistend) tend to cost more.
Thank you, it seemed you saved my motor, pulled the pan and the oil pump my o ring was hard and starting to crack. If I could post pictures here I would. I've owned the car for the last 5 years and it's never been abused by me and it's got a full Mercedes service history from new.
I heard an expression today whilst at work and it fits here perfectly. The phrase was, "It was engineered out". Mercs of old used to have oil pressure gauges. A graduated scale from zero to three. What I'm told though is that it caused a headache for the dealers when there was nothing wrong with the car. On an older car or in hoty weather and maybe with older hot oil the pressure that was previously indicated at 3, would drop to 1 when not under load. I remember it worrying me too actually. So they got rid.
I can understand that there are design flaws from time to time, but I feel like every single car should have a loud alarm with visual warning if your oil pressure drops to 0. I would certainly expect this from a "high end" or "performance" vehicle... No engine will survive without oil pressure so why let it happen?? I mean seriously, my lawnmower shuts itself off if the oil level gets too low and your telling me they cant incorporate a system to shut off the cars engine and make the owner aware that they have no oil or no oil pressure....
Seriously, there are some high end cars that will warn you of anything wrong with the oil. Oil pressure is the most important bit of info on a sports car.
It is easy to build a sensor for low oil LEVEL. However, a low oil PRESSURE alarm would have to have some intelligence built in because pressure varies greatly from cold to hot and from idle to redline. You would need a controller that monitors engine speed and oil temperature along with oil pressure. Then it would have a lookup table for every situation. Hot oil at idle would have the lowest allowable pressure, and cold oil at high rpms (a sin btw) would have the highest pressure. 20 psi hot at idle might be fine, but 30 psi at redline is WAAAAAY too low. I suppose you could log oil pressure in a healthy engine under all conditions and then use those numbers minus a factor of maybe 10% to trigger a low oil pressure alarm. If only there was an engineering student/electronics whizz around to do it.
The e55 has a low oil sensor lol. I am puzzled why this guy says there isnt one. I bought one for my 04 e55 two years ago. It cost over $700 from the dealership. Many places sell them go look online
All 55K engines share the oilpump chain slack issue. Its the very very weak chain tensioner. Its making a ticking nois at idle aswell, everytime the oilchain touches the engine.
I'd ask for a credit on engine and rebuild the motor. As a certified mechanic and used to rebuild motors to. I'd sugeset getting the rod that was minorly spun resized. Replace the chains to. Tentioners to.Then you have great reliable engine again. Is sad how a simple cheap part can fail an engine. I like the demo on the O rings.
The damage from the chain is because as the oil pressure dropped due to the O-ring failure, the tensioners relaxed allowing the chain to contact the block.
I owned an independent Mercedes repair shop for 30 years. My experience is the German "O" rings do harden with age. I have seen many failures of this type. Maybe happens more often here in Texas because of our heat. As someone else mentioned see if you can get a Viton replacement. Also you had better replace the rod that had the bad bearing. No way are you going to get the proper preload on the bearing shell with the old rod.
It seems mb knows about the issue. The new Oring is Viton while the old one is just plain rubber. Viton is a much more durable material and should basically last forever.
That's the same shit BMW pulled with their Vanos variable camshaft system. They used a plain rubber seal inside the mechanism, which also hardened after just 50-100tkm and caused a failure. The next generation of car then used Viton seals, which probably only cost them a few bucks per engine... What I don't get is, BMW apparently did this so they could sell you a whole new Vanos unit (they did NOT replace the seal inside the Vanos, because BMW ONLY offered the whole friggin unit!) and make some extra money. On the AMG here however, the failure would destroy the entire engine and I cannot imagine Mercedes trying to ruin their reputation of their bullet proof AMG engines like.
xXYannuschXx once a car gets to a certain age it seems that major failures dont really affect the reputation of the company much. Most of them will be on the second hand market so the original purchaser has already gotten a shiny new one. There is a good reason these high performance cars get cheap as they age. They are on the bleeding edge of design when new and often have strange and or unproven equipment and designs.
@@DoRC so the fix to this problem is to just replace the o ring with a viton one instead? this will prevent what happened in the video + prevent engine failure?
Dont worry too much about what the average says these days. The only thing common about common sence is it is not very common any more. The educational value of your videos is amazing. Top notch. Very thorough with no bull crap babbling and aahhh and ahh and then then ahhh..... Top knotch. There are a good deal of shop teachers that should watch your videos to get an idea of what an educator might be like. cheers first class.
I just love how every RUclips commenter becomes an expert on whatever the video they’re watching is about. But what I love even more is when those “experts” get almost immediately proven dead wrong. Great vid!
I'm taking mine apart in July or august. I'll keep you posted on my progress. I hope I can remove the subframe and leave the engine in place and do the work from underneath.
Yes, should be possible doing it underneath. One of the mechanics I talked to says he has seen other M113's with spun bearings too. Could be something specific to cars in this region but better to be safe anyways. Installing an oil pressure gauge would be the best way to tell. I'm guessing you would see a drop in pressure if air is going through the pump.
That was what I was wondering as well - how much of a headache to do this with the engine still in the car. i.e. hold the engine up w/ a fender to fender hoist/brace & drop the subframe out.
There is a rectangular plate on the front timing cover with allen keyed screw that you may be able to use for your oil pressure gauge. Thanks for posting all this about the o-ring issue.
I have been a Mercedes Benz tech for 25 Years and have seen similar issues with all the engines from M104 to the M156. If I were a betting man, I bet that the M157 will also cook the o-rings into round rocks. Regarding the M113, I have also seen many oil control rings siezed into the pistons, damaging the cylinder walls.
Anyone thinking diminished oil pressure, would not be castrostropic (especially on a boosted power plant), has no business commenting. Great video concept/executition. Thanks. I'll be proactively addressing this issue on my E55.
One other thing to mention. From 11/2003 all E55's recieved an upgraded oilcooler system. The first ones only have one, the later ones have 2. Maybe this has something to do with it.
I pulled apart my c32 amg (m112k) and the o ring was hard but not broken the engine had the cam lobes move and it smashed 2 pistons and the block ,the engine had 125000 miles (200k km) on it . Thanks for up loading the video.
If you got people arguing with you about the point you're making, just walk away dude. You don't owe anything to prove because people with half of idea how engine work knows, you're speaking the truth and your knowledge of these complex engines are amazing.
Man that is CRAP design. And who's saying you can't blow an engine from a failed o ring?? Clearly they don't understand how these things work. Numpties. And so what if you tracked it? It's an effin' AMG FFS!! I've seen a similar thing in other engines, this isn't unique to Merc. Some cars have a tendency to sludge up the strainer in the pickup - when this happens the oil pump strains to pick up the oil and any weakness in the o ring causes air to be drawn in exactly as you showed. Then it's "bye bye" engine. Could you not substitute something more substantial when you rebuild the other motor. maybe just a better quality o ring, or even braze the pipe in place getting rid of the o ring altogether??
Cyclone. And that my friend is the problem with the Internet and You Tube, any idiot with a camera can upload a video and is an expert. Once upon a time we used word of mouth the edit these numpties out but now they are all experts
Oh, man you're right on my wavelength there. I'm a Professional Automotive Engineer at a global OE and am trying to build a motor maintenance channel. I'm finding it very difficult both on YT and forums to mark myself out as someone who doesn't bullshit and who knows actual engineering. As you say, every other numpty can also be an "expert". Bar room engineers I call them. My Grandad used to refer to the type as "folk 'oo know owt and nowt".
Just understand the nature of the beast, my friend: Self entitled, opinionated armchair warriors lurk these halls. They can tell you how to do it, but they can't even do it themselves. Morale of the story: You're gonna have to wade in the shit first before you can be awarded with the golden scepter. If you can make it through these jackals, you're good. Just stay the course and understand that people today are missing the kind of smart that was once a functional norm like proper social etiquette. Most of their astounding feats are like pouring milk into cereal, posting a selfie and up-voting a picture of someone else's dinner. Yup...that's the kind of stupid we're talking about here. Just do you.
Most of the people saying this are Mercedes kool-aide drinkers that don't think Mercedes can come up with a shitty design. You see them with every brand though, a common problem that faces a vehicle and then their little fanboys come out from the woodwork with their little "you raced it", "You abused that motor", "mine runs fine (even though I only put about 2 miles a year on it)" and more. They're idiots.
I just read it in one of the comments but it was just what I was going to suggest. Replace all the oil related O rings with Viton ones. My father worked for Dupont and I still keep a samples box with assorted sizes. They are very long lasting . Good luck !!!
The chain scratching / grinding on the timing case is very normal on all m113s. I suggest you grind about 50% from that section of the timing case. That's what i did when i rebuilt my M113K. You can try and find a stronger spring tensioner, however its very unlikely that you will. Even so, it eventually will happen again. My o ring was semi hard, i replaced mine too as well as the round pressure valve that's between the oil pump and block. If Your pistons are good i suggest you buy new bottom end bearings and piston rod bearings. At least you can then rest asure that the most critical parts of the engine are new and ready for some boost 😉
Normal? so all the metal grindings in your oil as a result should be considered normal? seems like the chain is stretching or the tensioner cant keep up and it slaps.
Thanks a lot for the advise. Most mechanics I talked to knew nothing about that oil pump chain grinding. Will look into grinding that section away and changing the tensioner. I'm also leaning towards rebuild. Parts aren't cheap but at least it will be a solid engine with new parts afterwards
SK8215 yeah not many know about it because they are timing chain and they never have stretched chain issues, so they never open the timing case to ever find out. I'm happy to send you photos of how i did mine. However I'm not sure how i can send them to you. If you have any other questions or after rebuild info, hit me up!
common are the all timing chain tensioners, mecanic or hydraulic, fitted with anti return locks to prevent the tension release: if not the loose chain can jump timing wheel toots and destroy the engine by valve pistons collision...
Very nice, amazing the difference between the hard O-ring and the new one. I advise you should pay half the price for tracing the failure and free the engine supplier of a future claim of a blown/destroyed engine for the buyer (like you), you truly helped to trouble shoot a main problem for this engine and all the dealers and users of such should directly take that advice to heart and repair/change the O-ring (and the bearings if needed). I noticed the little lip on the bearing to lock it in place ie to keep it from spinning as that was (being) bend over and so spin/spun became possible, you didn't mention that !! So it took quite some force of friction to bend and spin it (around and) flat thus !! Cheers.
When you get spun bearings, you HAVE to measure the bores in the block and the con Rods. All fastners need to be replaced . One thing these engines do is pop the rear head studs if the old ones are re used. Also, it is a very bad idea to re use the oil pump. Unless you measure the clearances to ensure everything is OK it is folly to use the pump if it is in a high mileage engine.
I'm about to do a tear down on the motor of a E55 I just purchased. It's been in California all it's life interested to see how the o rings have held up. I'll report back.
I have an SL55. I just removed my oil pump and swapped out this o-ring. Preventative maintenance. The old o-ring was intact. It was hardened but not brittle. I used the new green replacement o-ring. I think with time, my o-ring would have failed if it had hardened further and broken apart. It does feel like plastic the way it came out as opposed to the new flexible o-ring. I am left with questions as to why they engineered it this way. Would anyone recommend welding/ brazing this joint together to permanently fix the issue? Thanks again for this video! This probably just saved my M113k.
The timing chain grinding the block/housing was like straight out of a horror movie! D: Regarding the o-ring issue, it's not always easy for the manufacturer to confirm or predict vulcanisation, but I wonder if they ever got enough feedback on this to change it...
I'd also like to agree with the person who suggested resizing the rod that had the spun bearing, this is a good idea to prevent the replacement bearing from not having adequate "crush", therefore making it more likely to spin itself. Best practice would be to do all the rods, but at least the one should be done. Have a good shop do it, a poorly done resize is worse than using it as-is.
GM LSX Engines have the same o ring pickup problems, and yes you can make a nice big paper weight if the o ring let's go, an old trick we use to do to old American V8's is to weld the factory pressed in oil pump pick up on.
Overhere in europe the same problem with the O-ring. Never had a M113K broken. But leaking and hard rubber are formiliar. Thanks for the demo run of the oil pump. And i also gonna mount a oil pressure sensor on my car.
Quite informative. If you don't have any major damage like scored cams and lifters on the second engine then I'd recommend a polishing of the crank and then a new set of bearings. And take care of all other seals, check valves and clearances and just about everything else while you are at it. That way you will know what you have.
When you fix an oil preasure meter pl make sure to fix an oil preasure switch as well .Use that switch to shut the engine if there is low oil preasure automatically.
also I forgot to mention. You need to change the rest of the oils in these cars every 30k miles. Do not forget the ABC fluid and filter. Also change the atf every race. If you can put a trans oil cooler on it then do it. I change all my fluids once a year. This will greatly give you the best protection. first the fluids wear out then the parts wear out.
I saw this video and the previous one, could not believe all the bad luck. You deserve an A++ for effort and determination, great skills and diagnostic methods ! Sometimes it's cheapest parts that cause most damage. Hope you get it all sorted out, I had to subscribe and give a thumbs up in support !
So I have been binge watching every one of your build videos for the cars for the past few days, I have to say you did a pretty awesome job dude. Like turning that saloon into a time attack car is something else. I have Hella respect for yee
the scrapping is from the timing chain tensioner that dependent upon you guessed it oil pressure, with little to no pressure the chain will slack off and slap
That hardned o-ring that gave you bubbles will give more bubbles when the oil temp is 90C. As the oil will be thinner it will be more prone to draw air. And if the car is used to its full potential it will not take long before something goes bad.
I would drive a Mercedes E55 amg for street use with occasional wide open throttle acceleration. I would change the oil pump o rings after purchase and every 100k miles.
Thanks for keeping us updated. Good thing you found out what the problem was with your engine! I wonder if Mercedes is aware of this problem... Keep up the good work 👍
I understand that Mercedes changed the design of this oil pickup tube to oil pump interface on 2008 and newer vehicles. Assuming this is correct then Yes, Mercedes is very aware of the issue.
Oil if not changed regularly and do short runs,not used regularly can haveSulphuric acid build up from condensation with in the engine which hardens rubber seals. Could be a cause factor
Great video. Thank you for demonstrating the concept. Maybe check out o-ring options from Viton? They aren’t supposed to harden in the same way. I’ve had good luck with them anyway.
That rubber o ring should have been a crush washer with a bolt on either side of a flange so it would never go bad, but if you replace that ring those engines are bulletproof
HI, I notice that there is an oil strainer on the scavenging pump inlet, but no strainer on the main pump. Those bits of block that were bashed off by the timing chain certainly did the oil pump no good when they went on their way to the filter! AMG did bother with a filter .. did they?? Maybe during prototype testing the stock strainer was starving the pump, so instead of making a custom high flow one the just left it off.. I wonder if the other cars with the same engine have a strainer on the main inlet? If you want to know how to put and O ring on properly there is a good RUclips video by AgentJayZ on Jet engine O rings
Easy to see at 1:32 that the registration ear on the spun bearing has been flattened. The reference bearing on the left shows what the registration ear should look like.
Okay, so the chain was whipping because the tensioner relies on oil pressure. A low oil pressure results in this. Replace the entire guide rails, chain and tensioner. The sprockets should be closely inspected. If one chain doesn't have a tensioner then replace the chain and sprokets to restore tension.
It ran fine until the o-ring failed. Had he shut off at that instant all would be fine. He didn't. It took a couple of laps to grenade the engine, which occured suddenly. Like a grenade.
Richard A. Wouldn't the o-ring had to be brittle in order to catastrophically fail? I would presume that the engine hasn't been performing as well it should have been for the prior laps.
Donut. He already mentioned to put in an oil pressure sensor to at least receive a notification (early one) before the pressure really drops and yes he might have done this before because he is racing the engine. I know BMW has a pressure sensor and the ECU checks it. You cannot really shut it off manually so quickly under these conditions before it really causes a major engine failure, the ECU is much quicker and mostly more reliable than the driver to act.
Pretty common design. mitsubishi starions used a similar o ring setup on the pickup tube. I just sold my cls55 awhile back. It is a great engine, but with any engine, there are always issues to keep them going long term.
In 1982 I purchased a MB 380 SEC a very expensive vehicle and at 800 km to my surprise it developed gearbox slip on my way to the dealer in Melbourne, SOLD IT 3 WEEKS LATER NEVER TO PURCHASE ANOTHER.
Nah, i live in the Netherlands, real close to the german border. I drive the autobahn often and its not what it was 10 years ago. ALOT of changes, very busy, alot of roadworking etc. And much cooler in Germany? how does that have anything to do to the o ring problem? a 10c outside difference in temperature is not gonna change the oil temp by alot or prevent that o ring from getting hard. That tube should have been connected solidly.
To me this can only be done on purpose by Mercedes, knowing full well.. that it takes a year or 2 3 at least for rubber o rings to harden out like that. Knowing that by the time it has done so, warranty will be over.
@@lucase3047 Like it USED to be in older Mercedes before designed malfunctions enter the game for dealer revenue. Shit designing means Toyota Makes even more money. The cheapest cost of ownership across its entire brand lineup-including Lexus
Hi the problem with the oring is that they may have never changed it, ofcourse they did oil changes and everything, but changing that ORing and the chain tensor are never been replaced, even the springs they wear out due to heat and they do it over time, at first you start to feel ypur engine noisier, but it is so over time that you get used to it before they get noisier and noisier, eventually they broke and you got a noticeable trouble, everything in a car made from rubber or using spring should be replaced in a specific time, for example they tyres on the subaru i got were the original and they fail inspection due to time hardening them, not from use... now im rebuilding a bike from the 90's zxr 400L model, and have been buying Oring, springs and rubber gaskets for about 2 years now, nobody replaces them they get use to the sound and leave them there... the wear of the block is from the use, lack of proper tensioner bad springs on the tensioners or wear out chain... they start to sound, maybe it has a oil pressured tensioner and due to the lack of pressure it were not properly working, i'm rigth with you in the oring causing all of your problems. Great video btw
Could be something specific to cars in my region or cars driven in this weather, you never know. I'd just install an oil pressure gauge so at least you can prevent something like this before it happens.
I think you've got it figured it, just praying mine stays sealed in this Texas heat and doesn't fry my engine too. Age and heat don't do rubber any favors lol Enjoying your videos man
The scraping from the chain to the block could be caused by the chain tensioners losing oil pressure when the car is sitting for a while. There should be a membrame inside of the chain tensioners that holds the oil pressure, when the car is shut off. But these tend to wear out easily, causing massive slack in the chain when you start the engine. Mercedes improved the design of chain tensioners many years later. In my case, the chain slack on start-up was so heavy it could easily be heard as an metal to metal rattling sound. Hope this could help you. Also in your case, it could be by the low oil pressure, causing the chain tensioners losing the strength and causing slack in the chain.
The chain damage is probably down to low oil pressure as the tensioner on some cars work on oil pressure if not then it would be chain stretching with high mileage or from hard pulls driving hard.
I worked at VW as a tech for 4 years and I've seen people leave the oil pump pick up Oring out on reassembly of the old mk1 Golf motors . The result is zero oil pressure . So anyone saying that the broken Oring cant cause catastrophic engine failure , you dont know what You're talking about . Because it can .
Turn the key to position 2 and press the reset button, press the upper arrow button and select oil check, then start the car and see the reading. If the oil level is reducing very fast means your oil circulation is correct…
I'd imagine a person can't just put no rod bearing in their engine, they would have to take it to an engine shop.....or maybe you can? I dunno. Maybe the scratched rod bearings were due to the broken oil boring and it didn't take -out-of-round the area of the rod bearings. I can't wait to see what information you get!
I remember rebuilding my Fiat 125 engine years ago - couldn't get oil pressure. Turned out we forgot to tighten the two bolts holding the pickup to the pump........ But at least we knew we had no oil pressure because the Fiat had a gauge :)
Definitely use a viton oring. Green or brown is a common viton color. Black is buna and does not take heat cycles well after time. The viton is designed to take the heat cycles and not harden.
That bearing has clearly been spinning, a lot. It's the only way you can get scoring like that, and look at the wear/heat discoloration around the (totally bent) alignment tab! Just because it stopped near where it should be doesn't mean it hasn't spun thousands of times. Lack of oil is an obvious cause, no surprise there.
Send the engine back, it won't be cheap to fix (and should have worked ok so make them pay, and waste their time), plus new bearings will need to be run in ect. Although I suspect the amount of time to recondition and run in will be a bigger factor than costs. I'd then drop an LS or 2jz or ford barra engine in, and go for serious power. Those barra engines from factory get 950bhp if you change a few springs and add a turbo and haltech ecu. Any of those 3 would be cheap in comparison to a Merc engine, and could produce more power. (plus you don't take the risk of same problems occurring again).
You just have to drop the subframe as the oil pan straddles over it. Other than that it's as straight forward as his video, except upside down since the engine is still in the car.
I'd install a new o-ring then weld a small brace between a hard point to the pick-up tube to ensure even if it becomes brittle, it really can't lose all suction. OR...simply pack the external seam with a bead of "The Right Stuff". It's the ONLY RTV I use when rebuilding engines. WHY use the same obviously flawed O-Ring? Find a Viton/non hardening material of the same dimension or a bit oversized(freeze it in dry ice so it'll shrink to fit...done it on other oil pump pickups O-rings).
Chain scoring can be because bad oil pressure. Probably when engine is decelerating. Oil pump chain tensioner has air and it's soft and can't hold tension on chain, and pump without oil pressure will not decelerate fast enough, making chain sloppy and hitting that part of engine . So yes I think it can be because of faulty o ring!
Wow! What a great verification of your hypothesis! I 100% agree that the o-ring was the 'root cause' of the engine failure.
AMG engines are literally bullet proof and have had this reputation for a very long time. However, the long term lifespan, and under the extreme conditions that were placed on the engine in your car, accelerated its MTBF and voila, it failed. Sometimes, breaking something under extreme load is the best way to find out its core design flaws. Refurbishing to improve the flaw makes it even more robust, as you can now improve upon the flaw to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Problem: Rubber o-ring for oil pump seal
Solution: Choose silicone o-ring instead --> resists extreme temperature swings and is more resistant to hardening when exposed to oil than rubber. Second solution is to weld the pickup tube to the pump instead to make a permanent seal, because this is internal to the car and is literally the 'heart' of the engine's ability to stay lubricated and cooled under extreme temperatures, in the case of using the engine for a track car. Third solution is to use a lead seal (or soft metal) that won't deform with extreme temperature swings and is resistant to oil contamination. Use of a reliable oil pressure gauge is a very wise decision, because that you can measure is that which you can manage, especially to save your engine if possible at the moment of failure. Make sure that the oil pressure gauge is high in your line of sight if possible or as high as you can mount it on your dash without obstruction of view.
Problem: Chain rubbing on engine block
Solution: Install a Teflon chain slap guide/guard where the chain rubs on the engine block. Second solution could be to install a spring loaded, variable tension, tension pully bearing in line of where the chain would slap on the engine block to reduce the slack in the chain. This would also prevent metal fragments entering the engine and prevent premature failure of the engine and/or the chain.
Looking forward to your follow up video on the solutions you chose to reassemble your engine and get your track car ready for the 2018 season.
All the best!
To save on cost, best to buy new bearings and piston ring seals, for putting the engine back together. I think it will be as good as new and very reliable with the oil pump solution that is most robust for the engine.
Keep up the good work!
diggleboy Rootcause confirmed. However o-rings are a bit more complex than being a piece of black rubber. The oil chemical composition together with heat accumulation over time can have a significant effect on o-ring condition. MB may have selected an inappropiate o-ring design for this application. More robust o-rings (thermal / chemical resistend) tend to cost more.
Sander Citroen So a silicon o-ring would be a good solution?
Maybe see about a different o-ring manufacturer. Because the OEM o-Ring isn’t all that great. Maybe ask if they are an upgrade.
diggleboy
Every thing German is over engineered junk... Another reason we kicked their ass in WW2
The scoring of the chain passage was more than likely from low oil pressure to the timing chain tensioners because of the o-ring failure.
Thank you, it seemed you saved my motor, pulled the pan and the oil pump my o ring was hard and starting to crack. If I could post pictures here I would. I've owned the car for the last 5 years and it's never been abused by me and it's got a full Mercedes service history from new.
"show it to some people and get some advice on it"
Haha as if you aren't now the #1 expert in E55 AMG oil pump systems!
Very informative video.
I heard an expression today whilst at work and it fits here perfectly. The phrase was, "It was engineered out". Mercs of old used to have oil pressure gauges. A graduated scale from zero to three. What I'm told though is that it caused a headache for the dealers when there was nothing wrong with the car. On an older car or in hoty weather and maybe with older hot oil the pressure that was previously indicated at 3, would drop to 1 when not under load. I remember it worrying me too actually.
So they got rid.
An O-Ring took down a space shuttle, I’m 100% that it is the root cause for this engine failure. Great analysis
I can understand that there are design flaws from time to time, but I feel like every single car should have a loud alarm with visual warning if your oil pressure drops to 0. I would certainly expect this from a "high end" or "performance" vehicle... No engine will survive without oil pressure so why let it happen?? I mean seriously, my lawnmower shuts itself off if the oil level gets too low and your telling me they cant incorporate a system to shut off the cars engine and make the owner aware that they have no oil or no oil pressure....
Peter Dudas bang on bro
B/c then you won't be buying a new car immediately after the 3 yr warranty is up and no one can buy a used car forcing them to buy new cars.
Seriously, there are some high end cars that will warn you of anything wrong with the oil. Oil pressure is the most important bit of info on a sports car.
It is easy to build a sensor for low oil LEVEL. However, a low oil PRESSURE alarm would have to have some intelligence built in because pressure varies greatly from cold to hot and from idle to redline. You would need a controller that monitors engine speed and oil temperature along with oil pressure. Then it would have a lookup table for every situation. Hot oil at idle would have the lowest allowable pressure, and cold oil at high rpms (a sin btw) would have the highest pressure. 20 psi hot at idle might be fine, but 30 psi at redline is WAAAAAY too low. I suppose you could log oil pressure in a healthy engine under all conditions and then use those numbers minus a factor of maybe 10% to trigger a low oil pressure alarm.
If only there was an engineering student/electronics whizz around to do it.
The e55 has a low oil sensor lol. I am puzzled why this guy says there isnt one. I bought one for my 04 e55 two years ago. It cost over $700 from the dealership. Many places sell them go look online
Rebuild it all so you know what’s inside since you have that skill. Then grind off the name on the SC and engrave yours!
All 55K engines share the oilpump chain slack issue. Its the very very weak chain tensioner. Its making a ticking nois at idle aswell, everytime the oilchain touches the engine.
Should see if the guy @legitstreetcars is getting the same with his e55 and cl55
any news?
How did that turn out?
I'd ask for a credit on engine and rebuild the motor. As a certified mechanic and used to rebuild motors to. I'd sugeset getting the rod that was minorly spun resized. Replace the chains to. Tentioners to.Then you have great reliable engine again. Is sad how a simple cheap part can fail an engine. I like the demo on the O rings.
The damage from the chain is because as the oil pressure dropped due to the O-ring failure, the tensioners relaxed allowing the chain to contact the block.
Not true, oil pump chain is tensioned by spring only.
I owned an independent Mercedes repair shop for 30 years. My experience is the German "O" rings do harden with age. I have seen many failures of this type. Maybe happens more often here in Texas because of our heat. As someone else mentioned see if you can get a Viton replacement. Also you had better replace the rod that had the bad bearing. No way are you going to get the proper preload on the bearing shell with the old rod.
David Perry is there one in the 2001 clk200 engine? I have one and I’m hoping it doesn’t have this O-ring flaw
That is a cool name you have there Mr. Perry.
If a bearing moves from its intended position at all its a spun bearing.
It seems mb knows about the issue. The new Oring is Viton while the old one is just plain rubber. Viton is a much more durable material and should basically last forever.
That's the same shit BMW pulled with their Vanos variable camshaft system. They used a plain rubber seal inside the mechanism, which also hardened after just 50-100tkm and caused a failure. The next generation of car then used Viton seals, which probably only cost them a few bucks per engine...
What I don't get is, BMW apparently did this so they could sell you a whole new Vanos unit (they did NOT replace the seal inside the Vanos, because BMW ONLY offered the whole friggin unit!) and make some extra money. On the AMG here however, the failure would destroy the entire engine and I cannot imagine Mercedes trying to ruin their reputation of their bullet proof AMG engines like.
xXYannuschXx once a car gets to a certain age it seems that major failures dont really affect the reputation of the company much. Most of them will be on the second hand market so the original purchaser has already gotten a shiny new one. There is a good reason these high performance cars get cheap as they age. They are on the bleeding edge of design when new and often have strange and or unproven equipment and designs.
@@DoRC so the fix to this problem is to just replace the o ring with a viton one instead? this will prevent what happened in the video + prevent engine failure?
This seems like planned obsolescence to me, the engineers know that Rubber O ring will fail and it just so happens to be in such an imperative spot.
Dont worry too much about what the average says these days. The only thing common about common sence is it is not very common any more. The educational value of your videos is amazing. Top notch. Very thorough with no bull crap babbling and aahhh and ahh and then then ahhh..... Top knotch. There are a good deal of shop teachers that should watch your videos to get an idea of what an educator might be like. cheers first class.
When accountants get in the way of good design
when that happens its time to go Japanese!!
Anon yes im a certified scotty kilmer cats best friend...fix it again tony with endless money pits
I just love how every RUclips commenter becomes an expert on whatever the video they’re watching is about. But what I love even more is when those “experts” get almost immediately proven dead wrong. Great vid!
I'm taking mine apart in July or august. I'll keep you posted on my progress. I hope I can remove the subframe and leave the engine in place and do the work from underneath.
Yes, should be possible doing it underneath. One of the mechanics I talked to says he has seen other M113's with spun bearings too. Could be something specific to cars in this region but better to be safe anyways. Installing an oil pressure gauge would be the best way to tell. I'm guessing you would see a drop in pressure if air is going through the pump.
That was what I was wondering as well - how much of a headache to do this with the engine still in the car. i.e. hold the engine up w/ a fender to fender hoist/brace & drop the subframe out.
One word: Viton. Dont use nitrile o-rings, they degrade too quickly.
There is a rectangular plate on the front timing cover with allen keyed screw that you may be able to use for your oil pressure gauge. Thanks for posting all this about the o-ring issue.
I have been a Mercedes Benz tech for 25 Years and have seen similar issues with all the engines from M104 to the M156. If I were a betting man, I bet that the M157 will also cook the o-rings into round rocks. Regarding the M113, I have also seen many oil control rings siezed into the pistons, damaging the cylinder walls.
Does m156 have same rubber ring?
Anyone thinking diminished oil pressure, would not be castrostropic (especially on a boosted power plant), has no business commenting. Great video concept/executition. Thanks. I'll be proactively addressing this issue on my E55.
Dude you are a badass not even the guys that work at the dealers have a video like this, keep them coming thanks
One other thing to mention. From 11/2003 all E55's recieved an upgraded oilcooler system. The first ones only have one, the later ones have 2. Maybe this has something to do with it.
SchepersP the engine in this video is from a CLS and that was only built in 2006... it seems to follow no matter what years
@@QookBuuk Supposedly after 2008, Mercedes finally released an updated design for the M113
I pulled apart my c32 amg (m112k) and the o ring was hard but not broken the engine had the cam lobes move and it smashed 2 pistons and the block ,the engine had 125000 miles (200k km) on it .
Thanks for up loading the video.
That's pretty low miles for such a failure wow! Rotten luck brother man, sorry to hear that :/
Dudeee I watched one of your videos and now I cant stop!! you sir are my hero, keep up the great work and I WISH YOU MILLION SUBSCRIBERS!!
It’s clearly spun, the anti rotation pin was flattened
If you got people arguing with you about the point you're making, just walk away dude. You don't owe anything to prove because people with half of idea how engine work knows, you're speaking the truth and your knowledge of these complex engines are amazing.
Man that is CRAP design. And who's saying you can't blow an engine from a failed o ring?? Clearly they don't understand how these things work. Numpties.
And so what if you tracked it? It's an effin' AMG FFS!!
I've seen a similar thing in other engines, this isn't unique to Merc. Some cars have a tendency to sludge up the strainer in the pickup - when this happens the oil pump strains to pick up the oil and any weakness in the o ring causes air to be drawn in exactly as you showed. Then it's "bye bye" engine.
Could you not substitute something more substantial when you rebuild the other motor. maybe just a better quality o ring, or even braze the pipe in place getting rid of the o ring altogether??
Cyclone. And that my friend is the problem with the Internet and You Tube, any idiot with a camera can upload a video and is an expert. Once upon a time we used word of mouth the edit these numpties out but now they are all experts
Oh, man you're right on my wavelength there. I'm a Professional Automotive Engineer at a global OE and am trying to build a motor maintenance channel. I'm finding it very difficult both on YT and forums to mark myself out as someone who doesn't bullshit and who knows actual engineering. As you say, every other numpty can also be an "expert". Bar room engineers I call them. My Grandad used to refer to the type as "folk 'oo know owt and nowt".
Just understand the nature of the beast, my friend: Self entitled, opinionated armchair warriors lurk these halls. They can tell you how to do it, but they can't even do it themselves.
Morale of the story: You're gonna have to wade in the shit first before you can be awarded with the golden scepter. If you can make it through these jackals, you're good. Just stay the course and understand that people today are missing the kind of smart that was once a functional norm like proper social etiquette. Most of their astounding feats are like pouring milk into cereal, posting a selfie and up-voting a picture of someone else's dinner. Yup...that's the kind of stupid we're talking about here. Just do you.
Most of the people saying this are Mercedes kool-aide drinkers that don't think Mercedes can come up with a shitty design. You see them with every brand though, a common problem that faces a vehicle and then their little fanboys come out from the woodwork with their little "you raced it", "You abused that motor", "mine runs fine (even though I only put about 2 miles a year on it)" and more. They're idiots.
Critical Thinker I'll get my best frock out
I just read it in one of the comments but it was just what I was going to suggest. Replace all the oil related O rings with Viton ones. My father worked for Dupont and I still keep a samples box with assorted sizes. They are very long lasting . Good luck !!!
The chain scratching / grinding on the timing case is very normal on all m113s. I suggest you grind about 50% from that section of the timing case. That's what i did when i rebuilt my M113K. You can try and find a stronger spring tensioner, however its very unlikely that you will. Even so, it eventually will happen again.
My o ring was semi hard, i replaced mine too as well as the round pressure valve that's between the oil pump and block.
If Your pistons are good i suggest you buy new bottom end bearings and piston rod bearings. At least you can then rest asure that the most critical parts of the engine are new and ready for some boost 😉
Normal? so all the metal grindings in your oil as a result should be considered normal? seems like the chain is stretching or the tensioner cant keep up and it slaps.
Thanks a lot for the advise. Most mechanics I talked to knew nothing about that oil pump chain grinding. Will look into grinding that section away and changing the tensioner. I'm also leaning towards rebuild. Parts aren't cheap but at least it will be a solid engine with new parts afterwards
SK8215 yeah not many know about it because they are timing chain and they never have stretched chain issues, so they never open the timing case to ever find out.
I'm happy to send you photos of how i did mine. However I'm not sure how i can send them to you.
If you have any other questions or after rebuild info, hit me up!
Are the chain tensioners hydraulic? If so the lack of oil pressure will cause the chains to go slack and hit the casings
common are the all timing chain tensioners, mecanic or hydraulic, fitted with anti return locks to prevent the tension release: if not the loose chain can jump timing wheel toots and destroy the engine by valve pistons collision...
Very nice, amazing the difference between the hard O-ring and the new one.
I advise you should pay half the price for tracing the failure and free the engine supplier of a future claim of a blown/destroyed engine for the buyer (like you), you truly helped to trouble shoot a main problem for this engine and all the dealers and users of such should directly take that advice to heart and repair/change the O-ring (and the bearings if needed).
I noticed the little lip on the bearing to lock it in place ie to keep it from spinning as that was (being) bend over and so spin/spun became possible, you didn't mention that !! So it took quite some force of friction to bend and spin it (around and) flat thus !!
Cheers.
When you get spun bearings, you HAVE to measure the bores in the block and the con Rods. All fastners need to be replaced . One thing these engines do is pop the rear head studs if the old ones are re used. Also, it is a very bad idea to re use the oil pump. Unless you measure the clearances to ensure everything is OK it is folly to use the pump if it is in a high mileage engine.
I'm about to do a tear down on the motor of a E55 I just purchased. It's been in California all it's life interested to see how the o rings have held up. I'll report back.
You’re for sure on to something. Definitely take the time and get everything all sorted out. Keep up the good work 🏎
After watching many of your videos I can't keep up with the amount of knowledge you have. I feel like learning Kung-Fu in the Matrix and overdosing.
I have an SL55. I just removed my oil pump and swapped out this o-ring. Preventative maintenance. The old o-ring was intact. It was hardened but not brittle. I used the new green replacement o-ring. I think with time, my o-ring would have failed if it had hardened further and broken apart. It does feel like plastic the way it came out as opposed to the new flexible o-ring. I am left with questions as to why they engineered it this way. Would anyone recommend welding/ brazing this joint together to permanently fix the issue? Thanks again for this video! This probably just saved my M113k.
The timing chain grinding the block/housing was like straight out of a horror movie! D:
Regarding the o-ring issue, it's not always easy for the manufacturer to confirm or predict vulcanisation, but I wonder if they ever got enough feedback on this to change it...
I'd also like to agree with the person who suggested resizing the rod that had the spun bearing, this is a good idea to prevent the replacement bearing from not having adequate "crush", therefore making it more likely to spin itself. Best practice would be to do all the rods, but at least the one should be done. Have a good shop do it, a poorly done resize is worse than using it as-is.
GM LSX Engines have the same o ring pickup problems, and yes you can make a nice big paper weight if the o ring let's go, an old trick we use to do to old American V8's is to weld the factory pressed in oil pump pick up on.
A very good test with physical evidence / proof. Top job and handy for any owners! I have a Subaru, but loved the video!
Overhere in europe the same problem with the O-ring. Never had a M113K broken. But leaking and hard rubber are formiliar. Thanks for the demo run of the oil pump. And i also gonna mount a oil pressure sensor on my car.
Quite informative. If you don't have any major damage like scored cams and lifters on the second engine then I'd recommend a polishing of the crank and then a new set of bearings. And take care of all other seals, check valves and clearances and just about everything else while you are at it.
That way you will know what you have.
When you fix an oil preasure meter pl make sure to fix an oil preasure switch as well .Use that switch to shut the engine if there is low oil preasure automatically.
also I forgot to mention. You need to change the rest of the oils in these cars every 30k miles. Do not forget the ABC fluid and filter. Also change the atf every race. If you can put a trans oil cooler on it then do it. I change all my fluids once a year. This will greatly give you the best protection. first the fluids wear out then the parts wear out.
I saw this video and the previous one, could not believe all the bad luck. You deserve an A++ for effort and determination, great skills and diagnostic methods ! Sometimes it's cheapest parts that cause most damage. Hope you get it all sorted out, I had to subscribe and give a thumbs up in support !
So I have been binge watching every one of your build videos for the cars for the past few days, I have to say you did a pretty awesome job dude. Like turning that saloon into a time attack car is something else. I have Hella respect for yee
The problem with the oil pump chain is not only yours and it is present on the M113 5.5 atmospheric engine as well, I had it on my w210 e55
the scrapping is from the timing chain tensioner that dependent upon you guessed it oil pressure, with little to no pressure the chain will slack off and slap
That hardned o-ring that gave you bubbles will give more bubbles when the oil temp is 90C. As the oil will be thinner it will be more prone to draw air. And if the car is used to its full potential it will not take long before something goes bad.
Awesome vid! I think you save a bunch of engines! Like how you actually showed what happens with the bad o rings!
Try tapping the oil pan lightly with a rubber or leather mallet first, that will loosen it, and you avoid scratching the sealing surface
666Hansen this is the correct practice.
love that you show all the stuff and want to get behind of it
All oil pickup tubes should be Braised and the rubber o-rings Tossed
I would drive a Mercedes E55 amg for street use with occasional wide open throttle acceleration. I would change the oil pump o rings after purchase and every 100k miles.
Nice vid, been watching the other ones you made ;) Good to know that this is a "common" issue on these engines.
Thanks for keeping us updated.
Good thing you found out what the problem was with your engine!
I wonder if Mercedes is aware of this problem...
Keep up the good work 👍
Nahhhh!
I understand that Mercedes changed the design of this oil pickup tube to oil pump interface on 2008 and newer vehicles. Assuming this is correct then Yes, Mercedes is very aware of the issue.
Oil if not changed regularly and do short runs,not used regularly can haveSulphuric acid build up from condensation with in the engine which hardens rubber seals. Could be a cause factor
Great video. Thank you for demonstrating the concept.
Maybe check out o-ring options from Viton? They aren’t supposed to harden in the same way. I’ve had good luck with them anyway.
The Space Shuttle blew up due to a hardened O-Ring.
Temperature the other way did it.
Just bought a replacement engine with 130k miles and the oring was in fact hardened and cracked.
Great video. Your investigations are great to see. Hope you know how to put this back together!
Fantastic insight on Mercedes engine, i’m looking to buy one like yours, Thanks for the time and effort in making this video, good stuff
That rubber o ring should have been a crush washer with a bolt on either side of a flange so it would never go bad, but if you replace that ring those engines are bulletproof
HI,
I notice that there is an oil strainer on the scavenging pump inlet, but no strainer on the main pump.
Those bits of block that were bashed off by the timing chain certainly did the oil pump no good when they went on their way to the filter! AMG did bother with a filter .. did they??
Maybe during prototype testing the stock strainer was starving the pump, so instead of making a custom high flow one the just left it off..
I wonder if the other cars with the same engine have a strainer on the main inlet?
If you want to know how to put and O ring on properly there is a good RUclips video by AgentJayZ on Jet engine O rings
F*** an o-ring. Braze that baby on. No more worries PERIOD.
Easy to see at 1:32 that the registration ear on the spun bearing has been flattened. The reference bearing on the left shows what the registration ear should look like.
Okay, so the chain was whipping because the tensioner relies on oil pressure. A low oil pressure results in this.
Replace the entire guide rails, chain and tensioner.
The sprockets should be closely inspected.
If one chain doesn't have a tensioner then replace the chain and sprokets to restore tension.
It's interesting how your car managed to make laps on a faulty o ring.
Keep it up SK8215
It ran fine until the o-ring failed.
Had he shut off at that instant all would be fine.
He didn't.
It took a couple of laps to grenade the engine, which occured suddenly.
Like a grenade.
Richard A. Wouldn't the o-ring had to be brittle in order to catastrophically fail? I would presume that the engine hasn't been performing as well it should have been for the prior laps.
Oil has virtually no effect on performance till it causes failure. Then it's 100%.
Yes, rings baked till hard and shrunk.
Donut. He already mentioned to put in an oil pressure sensor to at least receive a notification (early one) before the pressure really drops and yes he might have done this before because he is racing the engine. I know BMW has a pressure sensor and the ECU checks it. You cannot really shut it off manually so quickly under these conditions before it really causes a major engine failure, the ECU is much quicker and mostly more reliable than the driver to act.
Pretty common design. mitsubishi starions used a similar o ring setup on the pickup tube. I just sold my cls55 awhile back. It is a great engine, but with any engine, there are always issues to keep them going long term.
In 1982 I purchased a MB 380 SEC a very expensive vehicle and at 800 km to my surprise it developed gearbox slip on my way to the dealer in Melbourne, SOLD IT 3 WEEKS LATER NEVER TO PURCHASE ANOTHER.
That o-ring broke after the rod failure. The problem is the hardened o-ring.
.
Excellent detective work and great video. Very much appreciated, thank you.
Thanks buddy for your vids on m113k
The 1 dislike is from Mercedes haha. Bad design flaw pfff high end car failure by a 1$ 0 ring.
Or just live in Germany where it's much cooler.
And they have the Autobahn.
Which is also much cooler.
Nah, i live in the Netherlands, real close to the german border. I drive the autobahn often and its not what it was 10 years ago. ALOT of changes, very busy, alot of roadworking etc. And much cooler in Germany? how does that have anything to do to the o ring problem? a 10c outside difference in temperature is not gonna change the oil temp by alot or prevent that o ring from getting hard. That tube should have been connected solidly.
L. Yea i mean why making a system that is prompted to fail? A solid piece would be a lot more reliable and easy to made 🤷🏻♂️
To me this can only be done on purpose by Mercedes, knowing full well.. that it takes a year or 2 3 at least for rubber o rings to harden out like that. Knowing that by the time it has done so, warranty will be over.
@@lucase3047 Like it USED to be in older Mercedes before designed malfunctions enter the game for dealer revenue. Shit designing means Toyota Makes even more money. The cheapest cost of ownership across its entire brand lineup-including Lexus
Hi the problem with the oring is that they may have never changed it, ofcourse they did oil changes and everything, but changing that ORing and the chain tensor are never been replaced, even the springs they wear out due to heat and they do it over time, at first you start to feel ypur engine noisier, but it is so over time that you get used to it before they get noisier and noisier, eventually they broke and you got a noticeable trouble, everything in a car made from rubber or using spring should be replaced in a specific time, for example they tyres on the subaru i got were the original and they fail inspection due to time hardening them, not from use... now im rebuilding a bike from the 90's zxr 400L model, and have been buying Oring, springs and rubber gaskets for about 2 years now, nobody replaces them they get use to the sound and leave them there... the wear of the block is from the use, lack of proper tensioner bad springs on the tensioners or wear out chain... they start to sound, maybe it has a oil pressured tensioner and due to the lack of pressure it were not properly working, i'm rigth with you in the oring causing all of your problems. Great video btw
Fuuck this is scaring me I am about to pick up a e55 this is like the rod bearing problem of the v10 m5’s
Dav Apikyan don't worry I've had a w210 and w211 e55, m113 motors are bulletproof
Buy one. My 06 E55 been a beast 178,000 miles now
Could be something specific to cars in my region or cars driven in this weather, you never know. I'd just install an oil pressure gauge so at least you can prevent something like this before it happens.
I think you've got it figured it, just praying mine stays sealed in this Texas heat and doesn't fry my engine too. Age and heat don't do rubber any favors lol Enjoying your videos man
BMW ///M Power If I had a E55 or similar engine I would certainly install an oil pressure sensor.
That's why the DTM engines ran dry sump oiling
The scraping from the chain to the block could be caused by the chain tensioners losing oil pressure when the car is sitting for a while. There should be a membrame inside of the chain tensioners that holds the oil pressure, when the car is shut off. But these tend to wear out easily, causing massive slack in the chain when you start the engine. Mercedes improved the design of chain tensioners many years later. In my case, the chain slack on start-up was so heavy it could easily be heard as an metal to metal rattling sound. Hope this could help you. Also in your case, it could be by the low oil pressure, causing the chain tensioners losing the strength and causing slack in the chain.
The chain damage is probably down to low oil pressure as the tensioner on some cars work on oil pressure if not then it would be chain stretching with high mileage or from hard pulls driving hard.
I worked at VW as a tech for 4 years and I've seen people leave the oil pump pick up Oring out on reassembly of the old mk1 Golf motors . The result is zero oil pressure . So anyone saying that the broken Oring cant cause catastrophic engine failure , you dont know what You're talking about . Because it can .
Turn the key to position 2 and press the reset button, press the upper arrow button and select oil check, then start the car and see the reading. If the oil level is reducing very fast means your oil circulation is correct…
I'd imagine a person can't just put no rod bearing in their engine, they would have to take it to an engine shop.....or maybe you can? I dunno.
Maybe the scratched rod bearings were due to the broken oil boring and it didn't take -out-of-round the area of the rod bearings.
I can't wait to see what information you get!
I remember rebuilding my Fiat 125 engine years ago - couldn't get oil pressure. Turned out we forgot to tighten the two bolts holding the pickup to the pump........ But at least we knew we had no oil pressure because the Fiat had a gauge :)
Definitely use a viton oring. Green or brown is a common viton color. Black is buna and does not take heat cycles well after time. The viton is designed to take the heat cycles and not harden.
I completely agree with you if that oring splits and the engine loses oil pressure it will die very quickly
That bearing has clearly been spinning, a lot. It's the only way you can get scoring like that, and look at the wear/heat discoloration around the (totally bent) alignment tab! Just because it stopped near where it should be doesn't mean it hasn't spun thousands of times. Lack of oil is an obvious cause, no surprise there.
Fantastic video thank you very much for taking the time to make it!
I like the flat gasket with 2 bolts on the Honda B series engine for its oil pickup, its a paper type.
Thanks for sharing, very interesting to know
Would this happen in a single sump CL55 engine then?
Send the engine back, it won't be cheap to fix (and should have worked ok so make them pay, and waste their time), plus new bearings will need to be run in ect. Although I suspect the amount of time to recondition and run in will be a bigger factor than costs. I'd then drop an LS or 2jz or ford barra engine in, and go for serious power. Those barra engines from factory get 950bhp if you change a few springs and add a turbo and haltech ecu. Any of those 3 would be cheap in comparison to a Merc engine, and could produce more power. (plus you don't take the risk of same problems occurring again).
Good videos man. Looking forward to see next videos
Can I change the O ring with the engine still in the car? I will do this job this weekend if so, I already bought the O ring, thank you
You just have to drop the subframe as the oil pan straddles over it. Other than that it's as straight forward as his video, except upside down since the engine is still in the car.
This is quite the sales video for electric cars.
I'd install a new o-ring then weld a small brace between a hard point to the pick-up tube to ensure even if it becomes brittle, it really can't lose all suction. OR...simply pack the external seam with a bead of "The Right Stuff". It's the ONLY RTV I use when rebuilding engines. WHY use the same obviously flawed O-Ring? Find a Viton/non hardening material of the same dimension or a bit oversized(freeze it in dry ice so it'll shrink to fit...done it on other oil pump pickups O-rings).
Hello pal...Cheers for another interesting video! I have 2003 cl55 amg, 96k miles...Should I be worried?
No, the CL55 has a different oil pump. No o-ring in that one
@@xfmotorsports Thank god😁..Ive been bit worried...Cheers for answer mate😊!
keep up the good work. Im loving your videos
Chain scoring can be because bad oil pressure. Probably when engine is decelerating.
Oil pump chain tensioner has air and it's soft and can't hold tension on chain, and pump without oil pressure will not decelerate fast enough, making chain sloppy and hitting that part of engine .
So yes I think it can be because of faulty o ring!