Back in '60 or '61 (I was 12or 13) I learned how to surf on the south side of Santa Monica pier. It was in the winter (cold as ice) and the surf looked a lot like the surf in your video. I would catch the foam and ride that. It taught me how to stand up and how to balance myself. After a week of two I caught my first green wave. Yea! And I never looked back. I'm in my seventies now and I can see it in my mind just like it was yesterday. Thanks for bringing back those memories. 😊🌊
Back in '60 or '61 (I was 12or 13) I learned how to surf on the south side of Santa Monica pier. It was in the winter (cold as ice) and the surf looked a lot like the surf in your video. I would catch the foam and ride that. It taught me how to stand up and how to balance myself. After a week of two I caught my first green wave. Yea! And I never looked back. I'm in my seventies now and I can see it in my mind just like it was yesterday. Thanks for bringing back those memories. 😊🌊