I did this last year with great success, the only thing is i added foundation to the brood to give them more room for eggs. I gave the frames with brood to weaker hives. Knocked down all the open queen cells each time.
Had a similar nightmare today, HideHive was bursting with bees and swarm cells, actually caught a virgin queen emerging! I reckon its going to be a bumper swarm season? The activity seems crazy.
@@tobyswift1966 ha ha that's crazy. The hive/resources I took the virgin Queen from looks settled but the other hive is bursting 😆. Think there is going to be a lot of Nucs for sale this year cheap 🤣
Lawrence i found queen cups with a eggs in some but not all. I stupidly did a demaree which after watching your clip should maybe have done a split etc. Do you think they will swarm? I knocked down the queen cups, found the queen and put her with a frame of brood and 10 frames foundation as normal in bottom box. i stupidly thought this would prevent them from swarming ,Rookie mistake maybe.
I’ve been running small cell foundation since 2017 or 2018. I keep larger cells on the outside frames for drones and stores. My mite load has consistently stayed under 1%. Drops below .5% in late summer. I do not treat. I do have bees that seem to have good hygiene and they build quickly. The theory around mite control with small frames is that new bees emerge slightly faster interrupting the reproductive cycle. Seems to work.
Out of curiosity, since you do not treat, what process do you use to determine your mite loads. Most use mite washes to determine when they need to treat and possibly what to use so I am curious about your process.
@@sojourningpilgrim2301 I use an app called BeeScanning. I take 4 pics per frame in the brood chamber. The AI identifies Varroa. My bees aren’t runny either so I can also visually inspect them. I also have drone comb on the outside frames. I also inspect those during the swarm season.
@@Moderatelydisagreeable Interesting concept. I have a concern though. The varroa mite usually attaches itself to the underside of the worker bee and from the research I have done, it seems like the varroa mite only attaches to the back of the bee if the underside is already occupied. I am assuming on quick glance that the app can only detect the mites visable in the pictures taken which would almost certainly be the bees topside or back. Is there perhaps something I am not seeing here or understanding properly?
Small cell foundation is promoted as a inhibitor of tracheal mites as the bees that are produced are too small to support the mites but not really as a control for varroa mites as far as I am aware.
I run small cell foundation with no treatment. The theory on small cell for varroa is tat the new workers emerge slightly faster. Maybe a day earlier. This doesn’t allow the varroa mites to reproduce effectively. This theory is based upon mites in drone brood. So the process is to keep small cell for workers and to add cells for drones on outside walls. Then you can manage mites by removing excessive drone cells.
Another question. If you have hives. And these hives travel a route that increases death from vehicle impacts. Is there any altitude you can give the bees to avoid the increased death rate or will those bees always fly a certain altitude? Increase death by traffic could wipe out a hive?
If you have an obstacle in front of a hive the bees have to fly over such as a fence or hedge, the bees will have to gain altitude to get over the obstacle and will not return to the lower altitude after getting past the obstacle. As far as traffic wiping out hive, unless a vehicle runs over the hive itself then it is not really of concern to the longevity of the colony. A queen can lay up to 2000 eggs per day so that is more than adequate to replace loss to traffic I would imagine.
Why does a "reactive Demaree" not work Laurence? I have demareed one hive pre emptively and so far so good. I dont want to make increase so planned to Demaree my other hive this week but worried there may be swarm cells due to a pick up in the weather here in east Scotland
Verroa. Can a person anticipate by setting traps in a local area to identify a increased amount of the mites before raising bees in the target area? Thank You.
Not really. Small amounts of lemon grass oil are used as an attractant in swarm traps but too much in a trap will repel the bees rather than attract them and really only applies if they are swarming. Outside of swarming they are not really attracted to it in my experience.
Depends a bit on the season in the winter workers live longer then the summer but for workers around 3 months and Queens should be around 3 years though it is not unheard of to be as much as 7 years.
Workers live for 5 - 6 weeks in the Spring, Summer and Autumn months, the Winter workers are special and overwinter with the Queen so live longer (4-6 months). Typically a Beekeeper with keep a Queen for 3 years and then replace her . . . if she didn't leave on her own accord by swarming.
C'est assez problématique ... C'est la problématique de printemps apicole pour ceux saisonniers ... De base, le plus évident reste de greffer 2 cadres, par 2 cadres, partitionnés, nourrir au sirop léger, une semaine ... C'est assez récurrent dans la mesure où la vente de reines est une activité pleine et entière ... Tous effrayés par le greffage, mais pensez vous vraiment en quoi consiste l'élevage de reines ... Pourquoi restreindre la génétique lors que l'adaptation c'est bien passée ... Pourquoi ne pas cultiver la génétique, ce qu'il fera, ... D'ailleurs !!!
I did this last year with great success, the only thing is i added foundation to the brood to give them more room for eggs. I gave the frames with brood to weaker hives. Knocked down all the open queen cells each time.
Queen at 5:56 yellow marking
Good eyes, well done.
Spotted a might on the back of a bee
I spotted the queen 5:34ish middle of the frame just before you shook the bees off into the box
Had a similar nightmare today, HideHive was bursting with bees and swarm cells, actually caught a virgin queen emerging! I reckon its going to be a bumper swarm season? The activity seems crazy.
I've had 3 swarms in 2 weeks. I only have 2 hives 😂
@@tobyswift1966 ha ha that's crazy. The hive/resources I took the virgin Queen from looks settled but the other hive is bursting 😆. Think there is going to be a lot of Nucs for sale this year cheap 🤣
Lawrence i found queen cups with a eggs in some but not all. I stupidly did a demaree which after watching your clip should maybe have done a split etc. Do you think they will swarm? I knocked down the queen cups, found the queen and put her with a frame of brood and 10 frames foundation as normal in bottom box. i stupidly thought this would prevent them from swarming ,Rookie mistake maybe.
I’ve been running small cell foundation since 2017 or 2018. I keep larger cells on the outside frames for drones and stores. My mite load has consistently stayed under 1%. Drops below .5% in late summer. I do not treat. I do have bees that seem to have good hygiene and they build quickly. The theory around mite control with small frames is that new bees emerge slightly faster interrupting the reproductive cycle. Seems to work.
Out of curiosity, since you do not treat, what process do you use to determine your mite loads. Most use mite washes to determine when they need to treat and possibly what to use so I am curious about your process.
@@sojourningpilgrim2301 I use an app called BeeScanning. I take 4 pics per frame in the brood chamber. The AI identifies Varroa. My bees aren’t runny either so I can also visually inspect them. I also have drone comb on the outside frames. I also inspect those during the swarm season.
@@Moderatelydisagreeable Interesting concept. I have a concern though. The varroa mite usually attaches itself to the underside of the worker bee and from the research I have done, it seems like the varroa mite only attaches to the back of the bee if the underside is already occupied. I am assuming on quick glance that the app can only detect the mites visable in the pictures taken which would almost certainly be the bees topside or back. Is there perhaps something I am not seeing here or understanding properly?
Small cell foundation is promoted as a inhibitor of tracheal mites as the bees that are produced are too small to support the mites but not really as a control for varroa mites as far as I am aware.
Thats what I heard too it only help with the tracheal mite because of small bee sizs
I run small cell foundation with no treatment. The theory on small cell for varroa is tat the new workers emerge slightly faster. Maybe a day earlier. This doesn’t allow the varroa mites to reproduce effectively. This theory is based upon mites in drone brood. So the process is to keep small cell for workers and to add cells for drones on outside walls. Then you can manage mites by removing excessive drone cells.
Another question.
If you have hives. And these hives travel a route that increases death from vehicle impacts. Is there any altitude you can give the bees to avoid the increased death rate or will those bees always fly a certain altitude?
Increase death by traffic could wipe out a hive?
If you have an obstacle in front of a hive the bees have to fly over such as a fence or hedge, the bees will have to gain altitude to get over the obstacle and will not return to the lower altitude after getting past the obstacle. As far as traffic wiping out hive, unless a vehicle runs over the hive itself then it is not really of concern to the longevity of the colony. A queen can lay up to 2000 eggs per day so that is more than adequate to replace loss to traffic I would imagine.
Why does a "reactive Demaree" not work Laurence? I have demareed one hive pre emptively and so far so good. I dont want to make increase so planned to Demaree my other hive this week but worried there may be swarm cells due to a pick up in the weather here in east Scotland
They have already made up their minds to swarm once swarm cells are present so demeree doesn't work with swarm cells
Verroa. Can a person anticipate by setting traps in a local area to identify a increased amount of the mites before raising bees in the target area?
Thank You.
Use a screened bottom and sticky paper on the board below. You can track how many you have.
I have my bees on 4.9 mm as well. I can’t confirm that they don’t have varroa. I still treat but maybe it reduces the load.
@2:56 I could see the tab of a varroa strip?
At 3.22 the bee have varora mite.
Does lemongrass oil in a big plastic jar with holes attract bees so please let me know thank you very much see you later.
Not really. Small amounts of lemon grass oil are used as an attractant in swarm traps but too much in a trap will repel the bees rather than attract them and really only applies if they are swarming. Outside of swarming they are not really attracted to it in my experience.
oooh first. What is the lifespan of a worker Bee verus a Queen?
Depends a bit on the season in the winter workers live longer then the summer but for workers around 3 months and Queens should be around 3 years though it is not unheard of to be as much as 7 years.
Workers live for 5 - 6 weeks in the Spring, Summer and Autumn months, the Winter workers are special and overwinter with the Queen so live longer (4-6 months). Typically a Beekeeper with keep a Queen for 3 years and then replace her . . . if she didn't leave on her own accord by swarming.
Problems?
C'est assez problématique ...
C'est la problématique de printemps apicole pour ceux saisonniers ...
De base, le plus évident reste de greffer 2 cadres, par 2 cadres, partitionnés, nourrir au sirop léger, une semaine ...
C'est assez récurrent dans la mesure où la vente de reines est une activité pleine et entière ...
Tous effrayés par le greffage, mais pensez vous vraiment en quoi consiste l'élevage de reines ...
Pourquoi restreindre la génétique lors que l'adaptation c'est bien passée ...
Pourquoi ne pas cultiver la génétique, ce qu'il fera, ...
D'ailleurs !!!
All the information are lost in the much talking.