100MP GFX100S - Printing a big B&W fine art print - full workflow - from image to paper
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 ноя 2022
- Using a 100MP colour image captured with the Fuji GFX100S, Keith goes through his B&W print workflow for a large monochrome print of an oak tree. Looks at image capture, processing and editing/sharpening for print.
The print is made, using a Epson P5000 printer, using the specific B&W print mode [ABW].
The printing is direct from Photoshop, but there is no reason you couldn't use Epson Print Layout
The paper is Innova IFA45 Exhibition Cotton Gloss 335gsm paper on a 17" roll.
innovaart.com/product/exhibit...
There is a lot more about B&W print workflow at:
A 'Making of" video for a large black and white print is at
• Making a black & white...
There is a detailed article about that print by Keith at:
www.northlight-images.co.uk/ma... 
Кино
![[BLACKSWAN] ‘Roll Up’ Official Music Video](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ulvCwyKrwqw/mqdefault.jpg)
If all training videos were this concise and coherent I'd watch more of them. Also nice to hear some environmental context - it's what the picture's about after all.
Thanks - glad it was of interest!
This was a very interesting and engaging video. You have a nice manner of presentation. It interested me because I am a 5DSR user and about to purchase 100s.
Thanks - I'm going to be doing a few more GFX100S related videos now I've got one of my own
Nicely explained and a beautiful print
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this content. I really enjoy spending the time watching your videos.
Thanks - glad it's of interest!
Absolutely great video, Keith. Thanks a lot
Thanks - glad it was of interest!
Great video, thanks for these Keith
Glad you like them!
Very nice picture and print❤
Thanks - appreciated!
Thanks, Keith. Looking forward to the paper review. I have made the bronzing observation with the P900 and B&W prints on Hahnemuehle Fineart Baryta. A gamechanger was here the usage of the Hahnemuehle protection spray. Bronzing is afterwards completely absent.
Thanks - it's a paper I've used quite often over the years (first reviewed several years ago)
Thanks Keith, as usual very informative and useful!
Have you ever done a video about "widening the printer" by printing the image in 2 halves and mounting them side by side? I'd love to see a video about the practicalities of that.
Thanks
Actually I've not covered this, since I'm afraid it's not something I'd want to consider for an image of mine.
I've seen such tiling mentioned in the 'windows' section of many Epson printer manuals, but it's a windows only function (all Macs here) - hence why I've not even experimented with it.
Keith, another fantastic video. I’m wondering how much difference I would see if I printed a similar print with my GFX50R on my p900? I believe it has a similar sensor, but with half the megapixels. How large would I have to print to see a significant difference in detail. I’m assuming the two sensors have similar dynamic range🤔
Thanks again👍🏻👍🏻
[replied elsewhere as well]
Thanks - At the size I've printed it, you would need to look very carefully - I'd need a hand-lens.
I could have done this print (from a detail POV) with my 5Ds.
I've been printing large for years from less MP - the key is image processing - well that and the quality of the original photo!
The real take-away for me form using the GFX100S was how much easier the files were to work with. Over the last 20 years, more MP has always helped...
Thanks
Thanks! - always appreciated
Hi Keith, thank you for all your videos! How long do you leave prints after they are printed to ‘dry’? Do you cover them or leave them uncovered?
Thanks
A lot depends on the paper and what I want to do with the prints. For framing behind glass I'll leave them for several days. Prints can outgas for quite some time.
For making paper ICC profiles, I leave them overnight.
If I do have to stack prints I'll interleave them with archival tissue
Great video, Keith. Thanks. I also shoot a GFX 100S and have finally reached the point where I'm ready to print. Given the 102MP file, I'm thinking I'd like to print most of my (uncropped) images at their native size @300 psi, which puts me just over 29 inches on the short side. Do you think there's a sweet spot for close up viewing, as far as resolution and print size goes, or am I barking up the wrong tree? If printing at that resolution and size is prudent, then would you expect the Canon 4100 to be a suitable printer? It pains me that their pigmented inks are apparently inferior to those of Epson and HP when it comes to archival longevity, but I'm weary of clogging due to inactivity (especially during winter months) with the Epson printers, and I feel the consensus among users is that the HP products are even more troublesome in other areas. I've got a couple of days left to seize the $1000 in savings currently offered on the 4100, but I suspect that a new model may be imminent, perhaps with improved inks. Ugh. Of course, that's the game isn't it? It's always a gamble. I should add that Most of my images will be black and white.
What's special about 300?? - That is not a 'native size' at all ;-)
I have videos about print resolution and sizing - print them at whatever you like - the 100MP is neither here nor there ;-)
For the iPF4100 see my 2000 review - just change 2000 to 4100 and 24" to 44"
www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-imageprograf-pro-2000-printer-review/
Covers a lot of info - dates from before me making videos
@@KeithCooper I don't believe it's special, necessarily, but I've been given the impression that anything below 300 ppi is discernible at close viewing distances, and that in print, anything above is negligible. Perhaps that's simply someone's opinion, I don't have the experience to definitively say.
I don't fully understand why 100MP is neither here nor there, but I'll take your word for it. Thanks for providing a link. I'll read it now.
Ah - have a look at some of my 'print detail' articles/videos - the pro-300 is probably closest to the 1000 in this respect.
www.northlight-images.co.uk/best-canon-pro-300-driver-settings/
The '300' number is IMHO partly a relic of 20+ years of 'forum wisdom' - as you might guess, this is a subject I've done quite a bit of testing for :-)
Sending more detail does show, but in the real world, no-one would ever notice ;-)
Similarly [depending on the image] large prints can comfortably be printed at lower detail.
That's before we get to the question of just who shoves their noses into prints, and the fact they never buy anything... ;-)
If you've any specific questions - feel free to email me at Northlight. I'm due to get a GFX100S back some time and will be doing more print related articles for an event in May
@@KeithCooper Okay, I can see how "300 ppi" is an antiquated ideology, and why. It makes perfect sense, thanks.
Great explanation Keith. I have recently purchased the GFX100S myself but I have not yet shot to print. If you were going to shoot a vibrant colour image set for a billboard that is say 3m x 6m is there anything you would suggest I need to do specifically in post production to get the best possible outcome? (Other than get it right in camera😜)
At that size it helps to know how the print is to be printed and how close it will be viewed from. There are usually different needs for sharpening/resizing when you get that large.
I've printed 60" x 100" from 50MP images - the sheer size is partly what impresses people, as is the very different perspective to an A3 print held in your hands
I have a question that might be a good idea for you to put in a video. What is the correct way or process to "reduce" the size of a big photo aiming to print it in small sizes like 8 by 11 or A4?
Thanks
There's never a 'correct' way - just what works... ;-)
I'd just resize in Photoshop and potentially add a bit of sharpening
Depending on the printer and image source - the resolution could be set to whatever you want.
Not something I'd cover in a video really - there are just too many software packages and printers that people might use - I never ever use a win PC or lightroom for example.
Thanks Keith... If you don't use Lightroom, what do you use to categorize/organize your pics ?
Primarily date
- referred to invoice date for commercial jobs
- referred to events/trips etc for personal stuff
Sorted by keywords in Adobe Bridge for images in our 'Leicester' image library [Karen does this - 'organise' is not a well used word for me ;-) ]
Others sorted into specific project folders for print files and experimental stuff
Currently over 140k camera images and it rarely takes more than a few minutes to locate stuff, even from 15 years ago.
@@KeithCooper Thanks Keith... food for thought.
From my experience, C1 Pro may process GFX raw a bit better than PS series.
Yes, I may give it a look, but I've also found DxO PL [which I already have] also works very well on some files
amazing photo. do you see yourself switching to Fuji? thank you
Thanks.
As to switching - it's for the business, so it absolutely depends on lenses [as an architectural photographer]. I need to get an EF->GFX adapter next time to test my Canon TS-E lenses and maybe the Laowa 20mm shift lens [GFX version].
Then there is what Canon might introduce [camera and lens] between now and Fuji bringing out the 30mm tilt/shift
Lastly there is the fact that our finances are still in a state where I can't just switch on a whim... paying work has still not fully picked up and the UK economy is not showing promising signs
I am very new to printing. Where do I find the Black and White mode?
Which printer?
It's a driver option for some printers...
In the printer here [Epson P5000] it's set when printing, in the printer settings dialog
@@KeithCooper Canon Pro 300
See here
www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-pro-300-printer-review/
Includes all my PRO-300 related articles/videos
@@KeithCooper thank you
Keith, thanks for your walkthrough on B&W printing. Especially with a camera at such high megapixels, wouldn't it really make sense to only print on a very large format printer, as you already mentioned? I believe on smaller printers you wouldn't benefit from these large files unless you heavily crop and print that cropped image.
Well, on a 17" printer I think the increase from my normal 50MP to 100MP is just visible (not to mention the more 'workable' files), but yes, this is a tool for big printers or hefty crops...
Hello Keith.
Do you use a B&W mode on your monitor when editing B&W images?
Is there any benefit doing so on a calibrated monitor?
Thank you for another great video.
All the best to you.
Thanks
No just my normal editing mode - the monitor is calibrated, so B&W displayed on it is quite linear.
There is a control button for quickly switching to B&W, but given I don't know how it is combining colours to create the B&W, I only ever use it for 'quick looks' at B&W as an option when looking at a colour image
Thanks - At the size I've printed it, you would need to look very carefully - I'd need a hand-lens.
I could have done this print (from a detail POV) with my 5Ds.
I've been printing large for years from less MP - the key is image processing - well that and the quality of the original photo!
The real take-away for me form using the GFX100S was how much easier the files were to work with. Over the last 20 years, more MP has always helped...
Maybe someone can make a printer that doesn’t clog every other week.
There are many such printers - all the ones I use for example :-)