Pentax Spotmatic F: Overview Training
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- When I was getting into photography and Pentax in general, I loved watching overview videos that details the controls of the camera. I felt that this helped train and orientate myself to the camera before I even bought it. Every tip is extremely useful, especially with film photography!
Here is our take with a PentaxTips Spotmatic F overview training video:
00:00 Overview
01:13 Front of Camera
02:14 Back of Camera
02:25 Bottom of Camera
03:09 Top of Camera
06:03 Loading Film
07:11 Open-Aperture Metering
10:10 Stop-Down Metering
11:19 Self-Timer
12:03 Checking the Battery
12:42 Unloading Film
Learn the basics with the Exposure Triangle:
• The Exposure Triangle:...
Using Vintage M42 Lenses on the Pentax K-1 II:
• Pentax K-1 Mark II: Us...
Spotmatic F manual:
www.cameramanuals.org/pentax_...
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Stephen Foster
PO Box 99900 WU 227 122
RPO Meadowbrook
Edmonton AB T6T 0W4 
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Thank you to remember me - I got mine 1974 and used it for nearly 25 years
Besid the lens mount the camera is mainly identical to the KM.
Thanks, very helpful. My Spotmatic F was a 21st birthday present in 1973 from my wife to be (50th wedding anniversary on the 9th Feb this year 2024). I've not use it for about 30 years just about to put film in and give it a spin and looking forward to some DSLR scanning. Hoping the shutter speeds are not too far off the mark. The battery test was new to me so double thanks for that.
Thank you so much. What a beautiful camera!
The Pentax Spotmatic 35mm film SLR camera is simplicity itself to operate. A basic, no frills camera that is well made. Mine is a Honeywell Spotmatic version (distributed in U.S. by Honeywell) circa 1970 it is the earlier model without the flash hot shoe on top of the prism housing. I rather like the 'stop down metering' I can see the effect of stopping down the lens to the taking aperture as I adjust the lens aperture for proper exposure. Mine came with the excellent Pentax Super Takumar 55mm f/1.8 lens I got the camera, lens, case, and a Tokina 28mm f/2.8 lens for $42.00 a couple of years ago.
Great video. You are the first person to explain in simple words. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the kind comments!
Very good presentation
99% perfect. Camera, editing, script, narration couldn't be better. Maybe add actual sounds of shutter release and film rewinding? P.S. I learned something more about stop-down metering which I was unaware of. Thanks.
It was, and is still, a very handsome camera.
very nice!
Thanks!
When using flash you can use shutter speeds slower than 1/60 of a second to allow more Ambient light in your photo. Very good if there's a lot of lights such as Christmas tree lights behind your subject.
Nice point! At least the X speed. Can be slower.
omg I bought one of these things second hand and I assumed I had broken the self timer because it got stuck but there is a tiny button that activates it!
Great informative video! I was able to find one of this exact model (black version) at a thrift store. It's got multi-coated lenses like yours in the video.
I do have one question though. How would you adjust exposure if I were to use the 1.5v alternative battery instead of the 1.35v zinc/air battery?
The Spotmatic F lightmeter is not sensitive to battery voltage (contrary to the SP and SPII). The meter needle is driven by two spools working agaonst each other. A super intelligent solution to make the metering independent of the battery voltage. So, you can simply use a 1.55 V PX625 battery.
I believe the SP and SP II have the voltage-independent Wheatstone circuits. While the SP-F uses dual coil galvanometers that are calibrated to an expected current from a known voltage.
@@PentaxTips When looking at the circuit of the SPF lightmeter you notice the two coil galavanometer. Both coils exercise an opposite force on the needle. As the circuit only contains resistors (forget the on/off switch transistor), balacing these forces is voltage independent.
Great video.
I wish I saw your video before I bought my SP. my lenses or the older type, so they would not work on the SP F. I noticed that you said the meter is always on, so make sure you have the lens cap on. On mine I have to press up on that SW switch to turn on my Light Meter. Is that correct?
@@63MacGuy The SP and the SP-F operate differently. The SP only turns on the light meter when you press up on the SW switch. However, the SP-F meter turns on when you remove the lens cap.
@@stephenfoster7149 Thank you for your reply. I went out and bought an SP F. It works exactly like my SP. The meter only turns on when I flip the side switch up. I have older lenses so I can't take advantage of the stop up metering yet.
If you leave the lens on manual could you take a light reading without using the stop down switch?
Hello! I got a SP F as a gift and I was wondering if I use 625A batteries, will the meter show that the photo is under or over exposed? I want to be sure so I'll know what to do. I'll primary use ONLY 400 ISO film. Thanks and merry christmas! :)
Bridge metering shall be independent on voltage
Yeh the F has a different meter than the prior Spotmatics. It has a dual coil galvanometer calibrated to a known current.
I think about buying one of these but I have two questions: If it comes to open aperture metering. Is it working with helios 44m-4?
What if I decide to use the lens with lens hood, where I am not able to put lens cap. The light meter is going to be always turn on. Won't this drain the battery too quickly?
Hi, thanks for the video. I have just started using my Mum's old Spotmatic F, and I have noticed that the aperture needle does not move, no matter how much I change the diaphragm ring. I have replaced the battery so it should be 100%. I have tried a number of other things I've read online, but whatever I do, the aperture needle just doesn't move from the centre. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If you are sure you are testing the camera correct, it may indicate the light meter is broken. I have a few broken light meters in my spotmatics. Might be worth noting: the camera should mechanically still work without a light meter. You could use an app light meter with your phone instead. I use ‘myLightMeter’ app
I'm a beginner to photography. I know absolutely nothing! But I want to get started right away. What kind of film should I buy? Color or B&W. I have a Spotmatic SPII
Illford HP5 B&W and develop the film yourself at home !
Could you tell, please, if the needle doesn’t appear in the middle, with any settings, what it practically means?
Not enough light, bad meter, and/or dead batteries. Could be a few things.
I just had my camera CLA'ed and repaired but the light meter isn't working. Might test it on a fresh battery.
If a person CLA they should have noted a dead meter. I bet it’s just your batteries :)
Can i use a PX625A battery? ( Varta, V625U/LR9)
Yep I believe so, same thing
So the light meter needle is only used with the super multi coated lenses ???
Sorry just asking for clarification. I just picked a spotmatic f up and watching this part of the video left me a bit confused because I have the regular lens and the light meter needle does not move. It only moves when I check the battery like you showed in the end of the video
Yes - only works with SMC lenses
The basics here are good, but you have also included some misinformation. A couple of important points:
1) The match needle centering can be done by adjusting either the aperture or shutter speed control. The way you present it seems to indicate that you need to set the shutter speed first - this is not true. If you want to shoot aperture priority, set that first, then turn the shutter speed dial to see where the needle centers - if it's too slow, you can readjust the aperture. The order of setting the aperture and shutter speed does not matter.
2) You should not substitute 1.5 volt alkaline batteries as the voltage released is not consistent at all levels. The earlier Spotmatic models contain the bridge circuit shown in the diagram at the 2:46 mark, so that the higher voltage modern 1.5 volt versions do not affect the exposure readings, but this feature was not carried forward to the F models. You can use inexpensive zinc-air hearing aid batteries with a cheap adaptor, which is exactly what Wein does to make their cells. These are just zinc-air hearing aid batteries with a washer and metal tab to cover some of the air holes required for power. You can buy a permanent solution in the form of an MR-9 battery adaptor from criscam.com that makes 1.5 volt cells work properly. Zinc-air batteries are used in hearing aids and are available at virtually every drug or convenience store, and are super cheap. They are so cheap that it may be best to insert a non-electronic adaptor and lay in a stock of these cells - they come in blister packs, generally five or six for less than ten dollars. They discharge constantly after you remove the blue plastic tab so you should always keep multiple spares in your bag. Wein cells and these hearing aid batteries maintain a consistent voltage so they work MUCH better than the 1.5 volt cells.
3) Finally, by the time the F model was released in 1973, open aperture metering was no longer innovative - the base models from Nikkormat, Minolta, Miranda, Canon, and most other SLR makers all featured this long before Pentax. Asahi's coming late to the game actually knocked the Spotmatic out of its long-time position as the best selling SLR. By the time the F arrived, other makers had toppled it - if I recall correclty, the F model was only the top seller in the US during its initial year of production.
Good video, but I do think these three items are important to note. Andy
Any chance you’re selling the camera?