For all of you. Torque specs for intake manifold is 18ftlbs, and T-stat housing is 89 in-lbs. Order of Torque is: Left passenger side Right driver side Front towards Radiator Rear towards firewall 3rd bolt from left front is #1 2nd bolt from left rear #2 2nd bolt from left front #3 3rd bolt from left rear is #4 1st bolt from left front is #5 4th or last bolt from left rear is #6 4th bolt from left front is #7 1st bolt from left rear is #8
Just completed this job on a 2018 XT5 . A few things to mention. Parts I used. 12695285-thermostat wiring jumper 12648547- small o ring 12700744- intake gasket kit 12650595- temperature sensor 12678779- thermostat/pipe assembly I spoke with the gym tech while buying the parts. That said that they replace the jumper, sensor and thermostat when they’re in there. The jumper connects on the side of the block and is only 25 bucks so it was a no brainer(plus I broke the connector anyways). This video was extremely helpful I just figured I’d add onto it
I did the temperature sensor too. it was very hard to take it out due to the tight spot, i got a flat connector to the rachet. is 15 mm size. also it will be helpful a video in how to fill back the coolant i spend a lot of time.
It looks like maybe there's a new thermostat now? If you go to GMs part website and search for thermostat on the Acadia it will list part # 12678780. If you try searching 12678779 it won't find it so I think it's been updated? Trying to confirm.
This was also very helpful for me when the P0128 showed up on my 2017 Buick LaCrosse (you may want to add 2017 Buick LaCrosse in your tags on this video so others can find it easier. I looked at a dozen videos before I found yours that actually contributed to getting the job done properly). Details for any that are interested - the issue manifested itself twice before the MIL actually came on. Both times were when we had a cold snap with temps below freezing. First indicator was the cooling fans running for long periods after shutting engine off. They may have actually been running while driving but I never notice the noise. After I noticed the fans the first time, suspecting that the temps were high, I looked more closely at the dash temp gauge. It was at zero (off basically). In my previous experience this had been caused by low coolant level thereby no coolant on the temp sensor. I checked the coolant and level was fine. The next morning the temp gauge was working and the fans didn't run excessively. I wrote it off as a glitch (never put a scanner on it) and continued to drive. I'll add that the engine never smelled hot or gave any signs it was overheating. There's also an oil temp gauge that was in its normal range. 6 weeks later when the winter storm hit and temps outside dropped into the teens (in South Carolina) the problem showed up again, fans running and no temp on the dash as I drove into town (less than 10 miles). When I reached my destination and parked I noticed the fans running and then the MIL came on for the first time. While I was in town I attempted to get 2 local auto parts stores to scan the codes so I might get some parts before going home but was not so politely informed that they "no longer do that". I sure miss customer service. It seems to be a thing of the past these days!! Drove home put scanner on and found the P0128 which eventually led me here. The real tell on the scan was the ECT would not rise above ~155 degrees. That's well below normal operating temperature of 202 and a good indicator the thermostat was not closing properly. My research led me to replace both the thermostat and temp sensor at the same timeWhile understanding that the culprit was likely the thermostat more than a few leads said it COULD be caused by the sensor. When pricing parts the sensor was only about $10. For my 2017 LaCrosse (Essence trim) the parts I purchased were; 12650595 - sensor ~$10 12678779 - thermostat assembly ~$130 12648665 - intake manifold seals (6) ~$50 12648547 - coolant bypass o-rings (2) ~$2 Like others I wondered why I couldn't just purchase the thermostat by itself. While it is "an assembly" it's easily disassembled and could be serviced. A huge waste of time, money and resources IMHO! Besides that, as the OP points out, it's ridiculous to have to pull the fuel rails out to get the assembly, as sold, installed. Now I have a perfectly good and very fancy stainless steel 1.25" pipe that I will never use. OK - rant over. Back to the job. The video does a great job of guiding through the process but I'll add that the captured 10mm on the back of the manifold is hard to get to on the Buick. I could only use a box end wiggled in from the front of the engine along the firewall and I have thin arms. I also chose to only replace the thermostat housing and not the pipe. BTW - you definitely want to remove the thermostat housing BEFORE attempting to remove the sensor (IMHO). Even with that done, the sensor itself was a royal PITA. I have spent many hours over the years cussing overzealous engineers and added a few more while doing this! (I was reminded of the old mechanic joke about the gynecologist that decided to change careers to a mechanic and got extra points on his certification exam for doing a valve job through the tail pipe). Getting the connector off was the first challenge. The sensor is pretty far down in a hole and is tucked up under the head in front of the fuel rail (you can see the harness going to it at 7:03). Once you get that off then there's the pain of getting a 15mm wrench on the flats of the sensor. Because it is so well hidden, getting a socket that's deep enough to allow for the electrical connector but short enough to clear the head proved to be impossible for me. The closest I could find was a 5/8 6 point impact socket (3/8 drive) but even that was prone to slip off. After much gnashing of teeth and experimentation, including 2 trips to town, the tool that ultimately worked for me was a flex head ratchet wrench (www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-7-Piece-Metric-Flex-Reversible-Ratchet-Set/1003096290). I was never able to find a torque spec for the sensor but being unable to get a socket on it would make the information useless anyway. Using my flex wrench at 90 degrees and a pull bar in the open end of the socket I applied at my best approximation around 200 in lbs. As it turned out, the electrical connector was 180 out from the one I removed so the next guy that does this will hate trying to remove it even more than I did. Reassembly was fairly straight forward and after clearing all codes everything is operating normally with ECT right around 200 degrees. I hope this short story helps someone.
Damn ! My 2017 LaCrosse was behaving EXACTLY like yours! 74,000 miles. After watching this video I decided the thermo replacement is wayyyy above my pay grade. Parts and installation came to $650 at my local dealer. Money well spent after watching this and reading your story. My compliments on your mechanic skills!!!!
This is a very well put together tutorial, thanks for this. Going to tackle my MIL's 2018 XT5 thermostat this weekend along with the temperature sensor that sits next to it. She has the steering assist message on her dash and all the silliness that goes along with it. Gonna swap her spark plugs while I'm in there, too.
Just forwarded this video to my hubby…Dealer wants $1,200 to repair…of course, my power train warryjust ended in November due to years, mileage I haven’t even hit 50k yet. Thanks for this video!! You may have just saved us at least $900!
Do you think the power train warranty would cover this? Waiting for a call back now from dealer shop same issue, we only have powertrain warranty left on it.
Thanks for making this vid! Just did the replacement today on Wife's 17 GMC Acadia and your details are spot on. I did actually try to replace the transfer pipe and it's a definite no go, will not clear the fuel rails/injectors but made it easier to push pipe back into stat housing and reinstall the bolt. Thanks again!
I feel very lucky that I found this instructional video. Cadillac XT5, Acadia and Traverse have exactly same engine. I was able NOT to tear sound insulation. Instead, I had to use mechanic's mirror and located the bolt. It took me some serious efforts but I was able to extract it without pulling the insulation. i did not have any problems putting the bolt back, but I had to attach it to a socket with electric tape around it to keep it in place as i was aiming to get it in. Worked just fine. There are two bolts, but the one holding the thermostat pipe housing is slightly farther at the top. Also, I had to remove the bolt that holds houses that push on the insulation. Once I got the bold removed, I gained more room to push/pull the thermostat housing pipe. The project took me about 8 hours, but I am not a mechanic. Saved over $1,000. Local Cadillac service quoted about $1,500. I also changed coolant temperature sensor, since thermostat and the sensor are next to each other. Horrible design. I never had anything like that with Hondas. With Hondas everything is simple and cost efficient. Thanks Sam G. for the tutorial. I am looking forward to see more videos posted from you as those are very helpful.
You need to use mechanic's mirror and follow the coolant metal pipe. You will see the bold and feel it with your hands. It is not that difficult. The bold is hidden and covered by insulation. So, you don't need to tear it. Just remove the bolt.
Very informative and helpful for people. My dealer had all the parts u showed $348.71 thanks for part numbers also it made it easy. Subscribed and liked
Thank sir for your video. I knew Exactly what to tell the service department at the dealership. Then, they had to tell me this was an ongoing issue with the vehicle..... Glad I purchased the extended warranty
...what a flipping nightmare... blessed with one of these beasts....just had the ETC replaced... but we still have the gauge going to C on occasion and the fan running wide open... and of course that steering warning... but after this I can see why the shop doesn't want to replace the thermostat till it gets out of the warranty... thanks...
I just had my thermostat replaced on my 2019 XT5 by my Cadillac dealership and complete repair was 100% covered for labor and materials. I didn't spend a dime! Although my bumper-to-bumper warranty had previously expired, the dealership was able to cover the full repair under the Power Train Warranty. That saved me about $1400.00!!
Lucky! All this just started happening to my Acadia Denali. Of course my powetrain warranty went out in November! I don’t even have 50k mi yet, but 5 years hit in November. 🫠 Dealer wants $1,200 to fix.
That's awesome Mine is at the dealer right now For this exact same issue my bumper to bumper is expired but we still have the powertrain warranty (2021 GMC Acadia) Hopefully the power train warranty covers it,🤞
I just got my 2017 gmc acadia Denali out of the shop. It had the steering assist warning, no a/c, and temperature gauge staying on “c”. They replaced the engine coolant water outlet and TWO fuel injector seal kits at $222 a piece. Maybe the dealerships should watch this video so they can learn a thing or two 🤣. It cost me $1382 ($687 of that being parts) I’ve heard this is a common issue, so I’m hoping for a recall soon 🤞🏻
Steering assist off on my 2017 denali, cooling fan won't shut down off high, ac won't blow cold and the check engine light kicked on. I'm thankful for Auto Zone because the dealer wanted $150 to hook it up and they don't even take you on a date first!
Just did this job. Felt confident and comfortable thanks to this video. Although assembly with the torque sequence for the intake would have helped. But great video none the less.
the injectors are direct injects.....the nozzle enters directly into the combustion chamber and use very special seals...if you do not reseal the injectors you could have hot exhaust coming up under the intake.....also these injectors as they get older get very brittle and can fail after removal
Awesome video will this be the same on 2019 acadia ? Have steering assist light shop scanned said thermostat i thought they wer tryna have me hahahaha after re filling with coolant how do i bleed system of air pockets or does it do that by itself
question they say the signal they get is therm is open and engine runs cold . shuts down verious things gauge, steering assist ect ect, but why does this happen all the time up north when the engine runs cold for 10 min in low temps , i did not buy the open thermostat theory, using thermal lazer temp sensor the engine was same temp when having this issue as when not having these issues , so i replaced the temp sending unit and problem solved ! please comment on this ??????? problem has not come back for six weeks now but it always has been an intermittent problem what's your opinion on the this
Great Video, thanks for taking the time to record and edit this tutorial. At 7:28 in the video; I'm guessing the coolant it's rising up out of the thermostat hole since this transfer tube eventually leads to the upper radiator hose, but, can you tell me if coolant is rising up and out of the thermostat hole or is it being pulled down into the hole?
You can just let it drain out when you do the work, or drain a few qts out to drop the level. Don't have to drain all of it. You can also pinch off the overflow hose to the tank if you need to keep the tank from leaking out
Well this happened to me and on the way to the shop the problem went away. I'm sure it will return so I'll better prepared this time to tackle it myself. The shop wanted $1000 for the entire job and they weren't going to replace the pipe. Just use the red O-ring.
Mines doing the same thing, and the weird thing is I hooked up my 0BD Reader and once I cleared the code the temperature went right back to normal. Was it a coincidence? I don’t know but It did Raise eyebrows. Wondering if this is more of a computer issue than an actual thermostat issue. Why would the temperature go all the way down to C and then after a day or two go right back to normal on its own?
Once the code is set, the computer forces the temp gauge to read cold, and if you clear the codes, the gauge will probably function normally until the P0128 sets again (along with maybe a U code). Read the service info sheet I put in the video. It is likely the thermostat intermittently sticking open.
Having similar codes and behavior on 2018 Acadia Denali. Other symptoms include windows fogging up and strong ammonia odor at cold engine start, would this likely resolve issues.
@@samg5543 Thanks for the info... completed job... kept battery disconnected the whole time and recently brought vehicle back to part store to have them scan. Still throwing the code under pending but no check engine light? Do I have to bring to a dealership to reset computer? drove car around 20 miles and the issues haven't came back yet....
@Sam G how hard was it for you to shove the pipe into housing? im coming up short and the pipe bolt bracket is hitting the engine and seem i cant go any further. Any advice???
You can likely reuse them if they are still flexible and protruding past the plastic where they sit in the manifold. I replaced them since it was for a customer so I could avoid any issues.
2017 Acadia with the same issues. Local dealer replaced sensor first ($500.00). 3 days later had the same issues. Now they are replacing the thermostat-if they can find one. ($1650.00).
My wife's 2020 Acadia Denali has the same exact issues..... Steering Assist Disabled, A/C doesn't blow cold, and the Check Engine light. I ran the code and it said Coolant Temp Sensor and/or Thermostat. I bought a $17 coolant sensor from O'Reilly's and tried to replace it today after watching another video that showed replacing sensor without pulling intake off. Had a very hard time trying to break the threaded original sensor loose (extremely tight) and ended up breaking the damn nipple off flush inside the block. Now trying to figure how in the hell to drill it out if even possible... 😡. Acadia only has 51,000 miles and warranty has expired. GMC should have already recalled this!!
yes injectors should be rebuilt with new orings if removed. they are in the combustion chamber and are high pressure. Must have special tools to do seals.
Extremely poor design, we just had to have our thermostat replaced, $265.00 parts, $450.00 labor, change the stat on a SB chevy in 30 minutes or less for under $30 dollars. There is no economy in these later model vehicles when parts and labor reach $750 for a $30 dollar part on a SB chevy.
@@samg5543 gotcha. I found it but I’m having issues finding a replacement. Even GM couldn’t get one. All they have is a two prong and mine is a three prong connection
@@1stlrosas i think there is a shortage due to covid right now. I didn't replace the sensor in this one. Customer hasn't called back saying there are any problems.
@@samg5543 yeah the issue they say is that everywhere they checked it’s says 2 prong. Even with the vin number they couldn’t find the three prong I have in it right now. Which is crazy to me. It looks factory and not aftermarket.
Great video Sam!! Once my parts come, because they still seem to be hard to find, the job will be much easier after watching your tutorial. Do you happen to have the part number for the larger orange o-ring on the return pipe?
I don’t understand why the sensor isn’t the real problem. The computer doesn’t know if the thermostat is open or closed. Only the temp of the coolant. Trying to use some logic, if the computer is getting an incorrect reading from the sensor it goes into the most conservative mode not knowing if the temp is to hot. The reason why the fan kicks on high speed. My car went into p128 on initial startup. The coolant was room temp. The thermostat, that I’m aware of has no sensor so why would it throw the code? Any thoughts. Has anybody just changed the sensor?
P0128 is a code for the engine temp not reaching a certain level in a specified amount of time based on ambient temp and some other things. The thermostat is opening too soon or never completely closing, so temp never gets up high enough and p0128 sets. Can also be intermittent, but the thermostat is the issue. The temp sensor is reporting correctly, but it doesn't get hot enough or heat up fast enough
That makes sense. Thx. The logic in the programming seems odd to me. Why would the temp gauge stop working if it was cold or hot? Wouldn’t it make sense to keep the gauge working that way you know if it’s either extreme? That’s why I thought the sensor. Erroneous input. Shutting it off seems counter to knowing what the temp is doing. Has anybody tried putting their old thermostat (the faulty one) in a pot of boiling water to see if it opens or gets stuck at temp or when cooled off?
@@robertputnam2737 dropping the temp gauge to cold does seem to be a bad strategy, but I'm sure there is some reason they chose to do it that way. The power steering also sets a code since the engine temp is used to calculate the amount of boost to the electric steering rack when the grease is cold inside it.
@@samg5543 I get the P0128 with no other codes. The pwr steering message on dash shows up, but no code. No a/c and fan on high which would lead you to believe the fail safe is to prevent an overheat condition, not warmed up condition. Why would they wants the cooling fan on when the coolant is too cool. That’s why I think it’s a bad sensor. The computer isn’t getting correct info so it says what’s worse, too cold or too hot? Too hot to me is worse so kick on the fan, shut the a/c off (less of a load). I can’t remember what number it is, but there was a TSB for 2018 year to check for loose connection on temp sensor and update eco to latest software. Who knows. They just made it a pain in the butt to change a simple thermostat and sensor.
My ac quits working randomly and today a gmc tech said it was a bad thermostat, is that even possible?! Thought they were completely different mechanical parts. Im so confused.
If this thermostat code is present, then yes, it could affect AC. The computer could be restricting the AC from being commanded on if it's programmed that way. If you don't have a thermostat code, then the AC problem is probably unrelated to the thermostat. There are numerous possibilities as to why an AC system randomly stops cooling. Usually not too difficult to diagnose.
@@franco021987 that's it. Here is the only one on ebay. Seller's feedback sucks tho. No more from seller I used www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-GM-Water-Outlet-12678779/313215785095?epid=2295707335&hash=item48ed1d9887:g:EboAAOSw2dlfW-pW
@@chaseV1010 me too as of right now, got everything back in but i cannot get the pipe back into housing. seems like im out of wiggle room and wont go any further.
Le hubieran puesto el termostato adentro de la cámara de combustión encadenada remachado soldado y con dos guaruras y un dradon jejejejeje demasiado complicado cambiar eso men
For all of you. Torque specs for intake manifold is 18ftlbs, and T-stat housing is 89 in-lbs. Order of Torque is:
Left passenger side Right driver side
Front towards Radiator
Rear towards firewall
3rd bolt from left front is #1
2nd bolt from left rear #2
2nd bolt from left front #3
3rd bolt from left rear is #4
1st bolt from left front is #5
4th or last bolt from left rear is #6
4th bolt from left front is #7
1st bolt from left rear is #8
Just completed this job on a 2018 XT5 . A few things to mention. Parts I used.
12695285-thermostat wiring jumper
12648547- small o ring
12700744- intake gasket kit
12650595- temperature sensor
12678779- thermostat/pipe assembly
I spoke with the gym tech while buying the parts. That said that they replace the jumper, sensor and thermostat when they’re in there. The jumper connects on the side of the block and is only 25 bucks so it was a no brainer(plus I broke the connector anyways).
This video was extremely helpful I just figured I’d add onto it
I did the temperature sensor too. it was very hard to take it out due to the tight spot, i got a flat connector to the rachet. is 15 mm size. also it will be helpful a video in how to fill back the coolant i spend a lot of time.
It looks like maybe there's a new thermostat now? If you go to GMs part website and search for thermostat on the Acadia it will list part # 12678780. If you try searching 12678779 it won't find it so I think it's been updated? Trying to confirm.
11:01 11:01
This was also very helpful for me when the P0128 showed up on my 2017 Buick LaCrosse (you may want to add 2017 Buick LaCrosse in your tags on this video so others can find it easier. I looked at a dozen videos before I found yours that actually contributed to getting the job done properly).
Details for any that are interested - the issue manifested itself twice before the MIL actually came on. Both times were when we had a cold snap with temps below freezing. First indicator was the cooling fans running for long periods after shutting engine off. They may have actually been running while driving but I never notice the noise. After I noticed the fans the first time, suspecting that the temps were high, I looked more closely at the dash temp gauge. It was at zero (off basically). In my previous experience this had been caused by low coolant level thereby no coolant on the temp sensor. I checked the coolant and level was fine. The next morning the temp gauge was working and the fans didn't run excessively. I wrote it off as a glitch (never put a scanner on it) and continued to drive. I'll add that the engine never smelled hot or gave any signs it was overheating. There's also an oil temp gauge that was in its normal range.
6 weeks later when the winter storm hit and temps outside dropped into the teens (in South Carolina) the problem showed up again, fans running and no temp on the dash as I drove into town (less than 10 miles). When I reached my destination and parked I noticed the fans running and then the MIL came on for the first time. While I was in town I attempted to get 2 local auto parts stores to scan the codes so I might get some parts before going home but was not so politely informed that they "no longer do that". I sure miss customer service. It seems to be a thing of the past these days!! Drove home put scanner on and found the P0128 which eventually led me here. The real tell on the scan was the ECT would not rise above ~155 degrees. That's well below normal operating temperature of 202 and a good indicator the thermostat was not closing properly.
My research led me to replace both the thermostat and temp sensor at the same timeWhile understanding that the culprit was likely the thermostat more than a few leads said it COULD be caused by the sensor. When pricing parts the sensor was only about $10. For my 2017 LaCrosse (Essence trim) the parts I purchased were;
12650595 - sensor ~$10
12678779 - thermostat assembly ~$130
12648665 - intake manifold seals (6) ~$50
12648547 - coolant bypass o-rings (2) ~$2
Like others I wondered why I couldn't just purchase the thermostat by itself. While it is "an assembly" it's easily disassembled and could be serviced. A huge waste of time, money and resources IMHO! Besides that, as the OP points out, it's ridiculous to have to pull the fuel rails out to get the assembly, as sold, installed. Now I have a perfectly good and very fancy stainless steel 1.25" pipe that I will never use. OK - rant over. Back to the job.
The video does a great job of guiding through the process but I'll add that the captured 10mm on the back of the manifold is hard to get to on the Buick. I could only use a box end wiggled in from the front of the engine along the firewall and I have thin arms. I also chose to only replace the thermostat housing and not the pipe.
BTW - you definitely want to remove the thermostat housing BEFORE attempting to remove the sensor (IMHO). Even with that done, the sensor itself was a royal PITA. I have spent many hours over the years cussing overzealous engineers and added a few more while doing this! (I was reminded of the old mechanic joke about the gynecologist that decided to change careers to a mechanic and got extra points on his certification exam for doing a valve job through the tail pipe). Getting the connector off was the first challenge. The sensor is pretty far down in a hole and is tucked up under the head in front of the fuel rail (you can see the harness going to it at 7:03). Once you get that off then there's the pain of getting a 15mm wrench on the flats of the sensor. Because it is so well hidden, getting a socket that's deep enough to allow for the electrical connector but short enough to clear the head proved to be impossible for me. The closest I could find was a 5/8 6 point impact socket (3/8 drive) but even that was prone to slip off. After much gnashing of teeth and experimentation, including 2 trips to town, the tool that ultimately worked for me was a flex head ratchet wrench (www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-7-Piece-Metric-Flex-Reversible-Ratchet-Set/1003096290). I was never able to find a torque spec for the sensor but being unable to get a socket on it would make the information useless anyway. Using my flex wrench at 90 degrees and a pull bar in the open end of the socket I applied at my best approximation around 200 in lbs.
As it turned out, the electrical connector was 180 out from the one I removed so the next guy that does this will hate trying to remove it even more than I did. Reassembly was fairly straight forward and after clearing all codes everything is operating normally with ECT right around 200 degrees. I hope this short story helps someone.
Thanks for the 2017 Buick LaCrosse specific tips... I've got to fix my wife's car this coming weekend.
Damn ! My 2017 LaCrosse was behaving EXACTLY like yours! 74,000 miles. After watching this video I decided the thermo replacement is wayyyy above my pay grade. Parts and installation came to $650 at my local dealer. Money well spent after watching this and reading your story. My compliments on your mechanic skills!!!!
15 mm flex head. Good to know. Thank you my friend.
May your knuckles never bleed, and your Buick keep up to speed 😂.
Great video! This is by far the best demonstration of what I need to do to fix my Mom’s XT5. Thanks!
This is a very well put together tutorial, thanks for this. Going to tackle my MIL's 2018 XT5 thermostat this weekend along with the temperature sensor that sits next to it. She has the steering assist message on her dash and all the silliness that goes along with it. Gonna swap her spark plugs while I'm in there, too.
this is exactly what is going on with my 2017 acadia! my steering assist is disabled and my temperature is stuck on C. no cold AC. thanks so much!
Yes exactly what happend to me. Too.
Just forwarded this video to my hubby…Dealer wants $1,200 to repair…of course, my power train warryjust ended in November due to years, mileage I haven’t even hit 50k yet.
Thanks for this video!! You may have just saved us at least $900!
Do you think the power train warranty would cover this? Waiting for a call back now from dealer shop same issue, we only have powertrain warranty left on it.
@@franklinavilez2386 this is definitely powertrain
Thanks for making this vid! Just did the replacement today on Wife's 17 GMC Acadia and your details are spot on. I did actually try to replace the transfer pipe and it's a definite no go, will not clear the fuel rails/injectors but made it easier to push pipe back into stat housing and reinstall the bolt. Thanks again!
I feel very lucky that I found this instructional video. Cadillac XT5, Acadia and Traverse have exactly same engine. I was able NOT to tear sound insulation. Instead, I had to use mechanic's mirror and located the bolt. It took me some serious efforts but I was able to extract it without pulling the insulation. i did not have any problems putting the bolt back, but I had to attach it to a socket with electric tape around it to keep it in place as i was aiming to get it in. Worked just fine. There are two bolts, but the one holding the thermostat pipe housing is slightly farther at the top. Also, I had to remove the bolt that holds houses that push on the insulation. Once I got the bold removed, I gained more room to push/pull the thermostat housing pipe. The project took me about 8 hours, but I am not a mechanic. Saved over $1,000. Local Cadillac service quoted about $1,500. I also changed coolant temperature sensor, since thermostat and the sensor are next to each other. Horrible design. I never had anything like that with Hondas. With Hondas everything is simple and cost efficient. Thanks Sam G. for the tutorial. I am looking forward to see more videos posted from you as those are very helpful.
Hall was your car acting up went you had the problem
Radiator fan was constantly running at very high RPM dashboard gauges went blank.
Can you explain more about the bolt you removed that holds houses the foam push down?
You need to use mechanic's mirror and follow the coolant metal pipe. You will see the bold and feel it with your hands. It is not that difficult. The bold is hidden and covered by insulation. So, you don't need to tear it. Just remove the bolt.
Very informative and helpful for people. My dealer had all the parts u showed $348.71 thanks for part numbers also it made it easy. Subscribed and liked
Thank sir for your video. I knew Exactly what to tell the service department at the dealership. Then, they had to tell me this was an ongoing issue with the vehicle..... Glad I purchased the extended warranty
About how much did it cost your insurance? Or for the job.
What's the PN for the BIG O Ring on the metal coolant pipe? Great vid! 👍
...what a flipping nightmare... blessed with one of these beasts....just had the ETC replaced... but we still have the gauge going to C on occasion and the fan running wide open... and of course that steering warning... but after this I can see why the shop doesn't want to replace the thermostat till it gets out of the warranty... thanks...
I have the same issue
It Must be all GMC’s because my car is doing the same exact thing as yours that is crazy
Did the thermostat replacement fix the issue of the fan wide open and the steering warning? My 2019 Acadia is doing that. Thanks.
@@vanitynaj4127 I’ve seen Buick Enclaves doing the same thing. Basically the same dang car.
I just had my thermostat replaced on my 2019 XT5 by my Cadillac dealership and complete repair was 100% covered for labor and materials. I didn't spend a dime! Although my bumper-to-bumper warranty had previously expired, the dealership was able to cover the full repair under the Power Train Warranty. That saved me about $1400.00!!
Lucky! All this just started happening to my Acadia Denali. Of course my powetrain warranty went out in November! I don’t even have 50k mi yet, but 5 years hit in November. 🫠 Dealer wants $1,200 to fix.
That's awesome Mine is at the dealer right now For this exact same issue my bumper to bumper is expired but we still have the powertrain warranty (2021 GMC Acadia) Hopefully the power train warranty covers it,🤞
You the Man! Thanks for sharing this video. Big help!
I just got my 2017 gmc acadia Denali out of the shop. It had the steering assist warning, no a/c, and temperature gauge staying on “c”. They replaced the engine coolant water outlet and TWO fuel injector seal kits at $222 a piece. Maybe the dealerships should watch this video so they can learn a thing or two 🤣. It cost me $1382 ($687 of that being parts) I’ve heard this is a common issue, so I’m hoping for a recall soon 🤞🏻
Good luck
Steering assist off on my 2017 denali, cooling fan won't shut down off high, ac won't blow cold and the check engine light kicked on. I'm thankful for Auto Zone because the dealer wanted $150 to hook it up and they don't even take you on a date first!
Just did this job. Felt confident and comfortable thanks to this video. Although assembly with the torque sequence for the intake would have helped. But great video none the less.
the injectors are direct injects.....the nozzle enters directly into the combustion chamber and use very special seals...if you do not reseal the injectors you could have hot exhaust coming up under the intake.....also these injectors as they get older get very brittle and can fail after removal
Awesome video will this be the same on 2019 acadia ? Have steering assist light shop scanned said thermostat i thought they wer tryna have me hahahaha after re filling with coolant how do i bleed system of air pockets or does it do that by itself
Just left the dealership here Houston.tx. They wanted 1,500 parts and labor.😢😢. As of 2/24.
Love the video, ready to do mine. Can u specify what tools I need to complete the job
Works perfect on a 2017 Cadillac XT5, thank you for the video!
How do you remove the two metal hoses that you took off to get the thermostat out?
question they say the signal they get is therm is open and engine runs cold . shuts down verious things gauge, steering assist ect ect, but why does this happen all the time up north when the engine runs cold for 10 min in low temps , i did not buy the open thermostat theory, using thermal lazer temp sensor the engine was same temp when having this issue as when not having these issues , so i replaced the temp sending unit and problem solved ! please comment on this ??????? problem has not come back for six weeks now but it always has been an intermittent problem what's your opinion on the this
Great Video, thanks for taking the time to record and edit this tutorial. At 7:28 in the video; I'm guessing the coolant it's rising up out of the thermostat hole since this transfer tube eventually leads to the upper radiator hose, but, can you tell me if coolant is rising up and out of the thermostat hole or is it being pulled down into the hole?
What is the part number for the etc sensor? Just had the steering assist come up and need to get this all replaced on mine as well
Hey Sam is there a trick to avoid draining all the coolant, or is it absolutely necessary since the thermostat sits lower than the reservoir?
You can just let it drain out when you do the work, or drain a few qts out to drop the level. Don't have to drain all of it. You can also pinch off the overflow hose to the tank if you need to keep the tank from leaking out
@@samg5543 thankya Sir!
great video I'm going to do my xt5 this weekend 🤞🏼
Thank you for the video. My friends Acadia needs the thermostat replaced and I wondered if this shortcut was possible.
How can i find the pipes what are the names for the ones on top of thermostat
Well this happened to me and on the way to the shop the problem went away. I'm sure it will return so I'll better prepared this time to tackle it myself. The shop wanted $1000 for the entire job and they weren't going to replace the pipe. Just use the red O-ring.
Thank you for the video! Do I fill the water in the coolant tank? There isn’t a radiator fill cap?
Yes. Fill thru the expansion tank
Mines doing the same thing, and the weird thing is I hooked up my 0BD Reader and once I cleared the code the temperature went right back to normal. Was it a coincidence? I don’t know but It did Raise eyebrows. Wondering if this is more of a computer issue than an actual thermostat issue. Why would the temperature go all the way down to C and then after a day or two go right back to normal on its own?
Once the code is set, the computer forces the temp gauge to read cold, and if you clear the codes, the gauge will probably function normally until the P0128 sets again (along with maybe a U code). Read the service info sheet I put in the video. It is likely the thermostat intermittently sticking open.
What's the most affordable ODB scanner on amazon that can help me with this specific project. or if you could give me a good, better, best scenario
The cheapest scanner you can find that will show you live data should work.
EXELENT VIDIO BRO GOD BLESS YOU THANKS BY SHERING YOUR EXPIRINS
Having similar codes and behavior on 2018 Acadia Denali. Other symptoms include windows fogging up and strong ammonia odor at cold engine start, would this likely resolve issues.
Odor would not come from this issue. You likely have mildew on your evaporator.
Wait, you can't just replace the thermostat itself?? You have to replace the entire thermostat housing??
One assembly
Mannn thank you for this video it help me. 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼 save me money.
Thanks for video i replace temp sensor an that didn’t help going to tackle thermostat next
About to perform this on my 2018 Acadia... Do I need to drain all of the coolant out the system before performing job?
Just enough to drop the coolant level to the thermostat housing.
@@samg5543 Thanks for the info... completed job... kept battery disconnected the whole time and recently brought vehicle back to part store to have them scan. Still throwing the code under pending but no check engine light? Do I have to bring to a dealership to reset computer? drove car around 20 miles and the issues haven't came back yet....
@Sam G how hard was it for you to shove the pipe into housing? im coming up short and the pipe bolt bracket is hitting the engine and seem i cant go any further. Any advice???
Maybe bend the bracket to make more clearance. Should slide in easily. Lubricate o-ring
I'm having this same problem. measures part from dealer and from car everything is the same size but it just won't reach.
Is it necessary to replace intake, manifold gaskets or are they reusable?
You can likely reuse them if they are still flexible and protruding past the plastic where they sit in the manifold. I replaced them since it was for a customer so I could avoid any issues.
2017 Acadia with the same issues. Local dealer replaced sensor first ($500.00). 3 days later had the same issues. Now they are replacing the thermostat-if they can find one. ($1650.00).
You need to request a refund of the first job.
👍👍 can you tell where did you get the thermostast ?? ill apreciate iit !👍👍
Found the parts listed on ebay. They were unavailable from dealers at the time.
@@samg5543 thanks a lot 👍👍👍
My wife's 2020 Acadia Denali has the same exact issues..... Steering Assist Disabled, A/C doesn't blow cold, and the Check Engine light. I ran the code and it said Coolant Temp Sensor and/or Thermostat. I bought a $17 coolant sensor from O'Reilly's and tried to replace it today after watching another video that showed replacing sensor without pulling intake off. Had a very hard time trying to break the threaded original sensor loose (extremely tight) and ended up breaking the damn nipple off flush inside the block. Now trying to figure how in the hell to drill it out if even possible... 😡.
Acadia only has 51,000 miles and warranty has expired. GMC should have already recalled this!!
Just experienced the same thing with my 2020 GMC Acadia. Surprisingly, the GM Powertrain warranty covered everything! 👍🏾
my 2019 blazer is doing the same , i had code reset and it ran fine for a month , it's back again 😡 i wonder if it's the same process ?? same engine?!
Probably very similar
yes injectors should be rebuilt with new orings if removed. they are in the combustion chamber and are high pressure. Must have special tools to do seals.
Extremely poor design, we just had to have our thermostat replaced, $265.00 parts, $450.00 labor, change the stat on a SB chevy in 30 minutes or less for under $30 dollars. There is no economy in these later model vehicles when parts and labor reach $750 for a $30 dollar part on a SB chevy.
Does this coolant system burp itself after being filled, or are there vents that must be opened like on the old OHV 3100/3500 engines?
I just bled it at the overflow bottle. I don't believe there are any other bleeders.
did you put a sealant on the pipe o-ring?
No. Not necessary
Thank you sir for this video. Its a life saver
Happy to help
Where Are You Located In Texas?
@@demekajohnson8475 I'm in Mississippi
Does the coolant need to be drained for this to be completed?
It can be partially drained or let it drain/leak out as you do the work.
HAPPY NEW YEAR SAM!
acadia 2017 how to replace oil cooler and you dont show us how to remove this part we see it already removed
Can u explian with video with my thanks
Advance auto parts has them have to order it
I have 2019 Buick Lacross sending a thermostat code now.I had to pay $ 198 for parts
How long does this job take?
Probably 2-3 hrs if you are experienced
Is that the coolant sensor on the thermostat housing at the right of the engine?
It is directly behind the thermostat I believe. You may be able to see it in the video.
@@samg5543 gotcha. I found it but I’m having issues finding a replacement. Even GM couldn’t get one. All they have is a two prong and mine is a three prong connection
@@1stlrosas i think there is a shortage due to covid right now. I didn't replace the sensor in this one. Customer hasn't called back saying there are any problems.
@@samg5543 yeah the issue they say is that everywhere they checked it’s says 2 prong. Even with the vin number they couldn’t find the three prong I have in it right now. Which is crazy to me. It looks factory and not aftermarket.
Great video Sam!! Once my parts come, because they still seem to be hard to find, the job will be much easier after watching your tutorial. Do you happen to have the part number for the larger orange o-ring on the return pipe?
Sorry i don't but It comes with the new one I believe
Thank you
Now they want to drop our time, thanks. No BS a aftermarket warranty company sent me this video saying my 3.5 hrs is high.
3.5 for the whole job is about right. Including bleeding coolant and post scan to verify no vac leaks
Crown in Saint Petersburg, Fl just charged my wife $1737.88 for doing this.
Where is the parts list? I have same exact vehicle and issue.
I think I show part numbers on some or all in video
I don’t understand why the sensor isn’t the real problem. The computer doesn’t know if the thermostat is open or closed. Only the temp of the coolant. Trying to use some logic, if the computer is getting an incorrect reading from the sensor it goes into the most conservative mode not knowing if the temp is to hot. The reason why the fan kicks on high speed. My car went into p128 on initial startup. The coolant was room temp. The thermostat, that I’m aware of has no sensor so why would it throw the code? Any thoughts. Has anybody just changed the sensor?
P0128 is a code for the engine temp not reaching a certain level in a specified amount of time based on ambient temp and some other things. The thermostat is opening too soon or never completely closing, so temp never gets up high enough and p0128 sets. Can also be intermittent, but the thermostat is the issue. The temp sensor is reporting correctly, but it doesn't get hot enough or heat up fast enough
That makes sense. Thx. The logic in the programming seems odd to me. Why would the temp gauge stop working if it was cold or hot? Wouldn’t it make sense to keep the gauge working that way you know if it’s either extreme? That’s why I thought the sensor. Erroneous input. Shutting it off seems counter to knowing what the temp is doing. Has anybody tried putting their old thermostat (the faulty one) in a pot of boiling water to see if it opens or gets stuck at temp or when cooled off?
@@robertputnam2737 dropping the temp gauge to cold does seem to be a bad strategy, but I'm sure there is some reason they chose to do it that way. The power steering also sets a code since the engine temp is used to calculate the amount of boost to the electric steering rack when the grease is cold inside it.
@@samg5543 I get the P0128 with no other codes. The pwr steering message on dash shows up, but no code. No a/c and fan on high which would lead you to believe the fail safe is to prevent an overheat condition, not warmed up condition. Why would they wants the cooling fan on when the coolant is too cool. That’s why I think it’s a bad sensor. The computer isn’t getting correct info so it says what’s worse, too cold or too hot? Too hot to me is worse so kick on the fan, shut the a/c off (less of a load). I can’t remember what number it is, but there was a TSB for 2018 year to check for loose connection on temp sensor and update eco to latest software. Who knows. They just made it a pain in the butt to change a simple thermostat and sensor.
Not “eco”. I meant ecm
Torque specs for intake?
2010 Acadia how to replace the water thermostat
This should be a recall!!
Yes, but unless it's a safety issue, they likely won't recall it
Does anyone know the torque specs or sequence for the intake manifold?
18lbs
My ac quits working randomly and today a gmc tech said it was a bad thermostat, is that even possible?! Thought they were completely different mechanical parts. Im so confused.
If this thermostat code is present, then yes, it could affect AC. The computer could be restricting the AC from being commanded on if it's programmed that way. If you don't have a thermostat code, then the AC problem is probably unrelated to the thermostat. There are numerous possibilities as to why an AC system randomly stops cooling. Usually not too difficult to diagnose.
What a quick response on a older post by the way, you sir are the man! Thank you much!
One more question though, is the thermostat permanently attached to the housing? Why couldnt we just change the internals if not?
Why would GM do something like that???
@@williepeters1258 beats me
Good one ☝️ bro
where you buy the thermostat?
Ebay
@@samg5543 you have the part number , I can’t find it
@@franco021987 part number is on box in video
@@samg5543 it is this ,Water Outlet - GM (12678779) , please you can put me the link on you buy it
@@franco021987 that's it. Here is the only one on ebay. Seller's feedback sucks tho. No more from seller I used www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-GM-Water-Outlet-12678779/313215785095?epid=2295707335&hash=item48ed1d9887:g:EboAAOSw2dlfW-pW
Could you not just change the thermostat without the housing ?
It's built together as an assembly
Can you change the coolant sensor without removing the thermostat?
Probably so
I initially only changed the sensor,but ended up charging the Thermostat as well, because the same problem existed.
Sorry no,Im doing this job in my shop now.
no, housing has to come out for sensor removal
@@chaseV1010 me too as of right now, got everything back in but i cannot get the pipe back into housing. seems like im out of wiggle room and wont go any further.
What is that part called at 7:10
Coolant bypass pipe assembly
@@samg5543 How do you move those once the bolts are out
Le hubieran puesto el termostato adentro de la cámara de combustión encadenada remachado soldado y con dos guaruras y un dradon jejejejeje demasiado complicado cambiar eso men
Can’t find the part anywhere 🫤. No one has it, almost want to get rid of this car.
Good luck. These are definitely hard to find currently.