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THANK YOU!!! I have talked to many sales associates at big box, lumber, and hardware stores. Not one of those people could adequately explain to me about bits. For that matter, most couldn't explain the difference between drills and impact drivers. I am 66, a widow, and I LIKE the independence of having the 'know how' to do home fixes. In this social climate it is a survival skill.
I used to work at a contractor grade tool store in San Diego. Every great tool brand, tool repair and a super knowledgeable sale staff. What bit and tool do I need to drill this hole in concrete, what do I need for dust collection in my shop, what is an impact driver etc. Unfortunately, amazon really put them out of business. RUclips is where you have to go for this knowledge now. Or forums like Reddit.
in response to your "hope it helps" comment: IMMENSELY. your channel is one of the rare channels that patiently explains things that may seem..... obvious to seasoned craftsman but is not for the rest of us. i absolutely appreciate you.
Your acknowledgement that you don't know why power bits have power grooves and inviting others to answer that question was great. When someone teaches others about a topic but admits there are some facts they don't know, that increases my confidence in what they DO claim to know and teach. I realize that above statement may come off as sarcasm to some but it's not and I honestly do think it's a great quality of this video. Thumbs up!
Here's a tip when buying impact bits -- buy different brands to color code by fastener type! For example, buy Milwaukee (red) torx bits, DeWalt (yellow) phillips bits, and Makita (blue) square bits.
Great idea! (though, I prefer to buy when things are on sale...) You can also use different colors of heat shrink and more easily apply your own color coding.
I always use different brands for all my screwdrivers 😊 Not because of the colour!!! 🌈 It's just the polite handshake every time I reach in my case. The tell me who they are without hesitation 😂😂😂
While I know this difference exists. I daily use the two kinds interchangeably(depending on whichever I find first) in an impact driver and have never had a “power bit” break on me my guess is your more likely to damage the fastener before you break a bit so to all those new comers I wouldn’t worry too much about spending the extra money on impact bits unless you plan to do a really serious amount of impacting and are organized enough to keep a bit long enough to break it.
Same here, and I am an installer by trade. I generally only buy impact bits. But I wouldn't take an extra trip down and back up a ladder to grab an impact bit if I had a non-impact one handy
Ditto. 35 years construction can’t recall ever a broken a bit with an impact driver. Quite a few with a straight drill-driver but then mostly in metal or concrete application or the tip of a slotted driver.
I was going to say roughly the same thing. I have built quite a few hardibacker showers that require a few hundred heavy duty heavy duty screws to install. I used screws that required square drives and I don't recall breaking a bit although the bits would wear to the point that they didn't grab the screw as well as a new one. I only recently became aware of the idea that impact rated bits should be used. They might be better, but you'd have to play close attention to how long bits last before you might notice that the impact rated bits are better.
I’ve only ever sheared impact bits when drilling holes in metal. Now I only use my impact on metal when I have the proper tool but it’s just out of reach
I've mullered plenty of bit tips myself. All of them have been rated for ugga-duggas & usually they have been insert bits, not full length quick release impact bits.
10 years as a hobby woodworker and I never knew this (yes, I have snapped a bit or two in my impact driver and just assumed it was workmanship). As always, thank you for making the videos you make. I enjoy your videos and learn something from just about everyone of them (sometimes to my embarrassment lol). Keep up the great and appreciated work!
If it makes you feel any better I only knew because I read the marketing material from brands because sometimes its hilariously dumb why theirs is "better" than x brand and ended up learning why impact bits look like they do and realizing there was a difference. Some brands actually dive deep into why they are designed the way they are with charts and diagrams showing the forces on bits and how the design works, which is pretty cool and not just PR or bs marketing.
Honestly you're not gonna snap off normal driver bits unless you're overtightening shit or trying to drive something ridiculous that should have been predrilled.
The power groove on standard bits was common in several brands years before impact drivers became common place. It served the same purpose in that there were extensions with spring loaded couplers that would hold them until the coupler was released so the bit would not drop out when you pulled it off the screw head.
I like these bits because before I ever owned an impact gun I only had a drill driver. I bought a quick release adapter and these bits worked great. I could change bits fast and they remained secure while using them.
The quick change groove is a fun bit of engineering, manufacturing, and political history: Power bits have the same groove as impact bits as a historical artifact. Before power drills were allowed to be sold as "drill/driver" combos, power screw drivers and impact screw drivers entered the market (1960's). Power screw drivers were notoriously bad at holding longer bits, so they adopted the "quick change" feature of the impact driver and scaled it to the now common 1/4 inch hex. Over time and with advancements in materials, impact drivers were able to be scaled down from 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch to the now common 1/4 inch. This meant a single manufacturing system could produce both bit types by essentially changing only the input material. This was a major economic gain for the manufacturers both in production cost savings and the ability to bring impact drivers to the DYI market at an affordable price. At the same time, several patents, laws, and regulations were changed which now allowed any variable speed drill to be marketed as a drill/driver. The torque limiting chuck was very nearly a simultaneous release. Since manufacturers had no reason to retool their lines (a very expensive procedure without any demonstrable financial gain), the now mostly superfluous grove on power bits remained. Virtually all impact tools (drivers, wrenches, etc.) clearly and conspicuously state in the operations manual to use exclusively impact rated accessories (bits, sockets, etc.). As a result manufactures of bits are only required to note that a particular accessory is impact rated on the packaging and and provided instructions, not on the accessory itself. Thus the legacy groove is meaningless for identification purposes. The distinguishing differences of colored bands, neck sizing, etc. are all Very recent (primarily post 2000), and were driven by users requesting simplified ID of impact vs. other types of accessories (specifically after throwing out the packaging and "user manual / instructions). Some "conspiracy theorists" also attempt to suggest that the groove remains on non-impact accessories as a way to tempt people into using them in impact tools so that the bits will break and the manufacturer is able to sell more bits -- a form of "planned obsolescence. However this is not the case. As noted earlier, there are numerous electric screw drivers that use the quick release system, as well as many smaller 1/4 inch drills common in the home/DYI market - especially outside of North America. So again, why would manufacturers change their production lines when doing so would cost money without increasing profits?
@@TheHonestCarpenter You're most welcome Ethan. You have a great show and provide a very valuable service. I have learned a great deal from you. So I am glad when my background is able to repay in some small part the wealth of knowledge I have gained. Please keep up the great work.
This is probably the best comment I've ever come across on RUclips. Thanks for the knowledge drop on a subject I never would've found otherwise. I've never had a regular bit break while using an impact driver, and not sure I've ever used an impact bit with any regulatory
This lines up with what I was kind of thinking after the video. I actually have a few bosch drill/drivers that use the quick change power bits as well as a bosch and craftsman impact which of course also use quick change but I had a drill/driver with quick change way before I ever got an impact. Though to note I just buy impact bits because why not? Especially since bosch and makita impact bits are really cheap for some good quality, I also like the craftsman bits but they are not always as reliably cheap but they are still good quality. (im a fan of 3.5" and 6" impact bits and makita is kind of the best game in town for price/quality there)
Nice to know. However, I have used regular bits in impact drivers for years and have had almost no failures. Unless you are primarily using big, long screws, impact bits are only marginally useful. If impact bit would prevent me from losing them at the same pace I lose regular bits, THAT would be an awesome feature.
Yeah, I use quality made in Germany, 1 quid each, 'power bits' because impact bits never existed 14 years ago when I got my first impact driver, I saw some makita ones, they were 14 quid for 2! Well, they were shite, my 18v bosch snapped it off like a carrot! The normal power bits last for ages on normal size screws up to no5 x 150. Anything bigger than that an I just use a new one an most of the time you get the job done without breaking the bit.
Impact drivers use an impacting anvil to increase their torque, not a ratcheting mechanism. The addition of the impact force also increases shock factor whel loosening fasteners. Also, the groove came before impact drivers were on the market, it was for tools that offered a quick release chuck.
the internal mechanism is certainly not a ratchet, but i think the point being made is that the screw becomes a defacto ratchet at the screw/wood interface, whereby anytime it binds the impact overcomes the static friction to slide it forward again
@@5naxalotl no,, he just doesnt understand how impact drivers works and said it uses a ratchet mechanism because the clicking noise it makes sounds like the clicking noise that a ratchet makes
unintendedpurposes is right. Quick change bits have been around longer than The “Honest” Carpenter has been alive. It’s the “torsion zone” gimmick that’s new. Using less metal in each bit ALMOST seems logical, but it doesn’t keep bit tips from breaking. Also, an impact driver isn’t needed to break but tips. In my 29 year career, I’ve broken more bit tips with a drill than I have with an impact… regardless of bit type. In the early 2000’s the best bits on the market were “cryogenically frozen” Bosch bits with serrations on the top. They were hard… very hard! They nearly never wore out but occasionally one would snap right off in the screw head as it reached final torque. DeWalt made some with serrated tips but not hardened. They gripped well but eventually did wear out. So, the moral is buy good bits, do good work, and never mind the gimmicks unless they actually deliver. THAT’S honest carpentry.
I had this exact problem yesterday when using my impact driver for the first time. I have learned so much from your videos. How to use tools safely, using the right tool for the specific job, and overall tool and accessory vocabulary 😊 Thank you
I was the exact same way for a long time until I read an article about it somewhere along the way, Daniel. Came as a surprise to me as I’d been using the bits so long. Thanks for watching! 😄
The deep round groove is for a ball detent bit holder. As noted by others, these predate 1/4” Drive impact drivers. The shallow skinny groove as seen on 1” insert bits is for a wire detent, as found in bit holders and built into traditional corded drywall screw guns.
WOW and SUPER WOW. Now I finally know what all those tiny bits are for, and the skinny necked ones. Your explanation of how each one was designed to be used was, as usual, a real game changer for me. I always look forward to your vids. Even when they are about a tool that I will not need, such as a chop saw, just knowing about them is fun for me.
Taking on home projects as a first time DIY'er and I just learned that I've been using the wrong bits/combos this entire time! Thank you so much for the lesson! So much appreciated!
A very important point that was missed is that the torsional flex in the shaft of the impact bit will help keep the bit from camming out on the fastener. i.e. You are a lot less likely to strip the head of the fastener with an impact bit. The shaft absorbs the blow so the bit stays in the socket of the fastener. This is the main benefit as far as I am concerned...
and thats what the flex section is designed for - not for absorbing impacts (thats just counter-productive). the video maker really doesnt know what he's talking about. its quite obvious he only works with wood, where these kinda blatant mistakes won't result in catastrophic failures
That's also my understanding. I have broken as many impact bits as any other, but the impact bits don't cam out and strip heads before the screw is seated nearly as often.
@@Ghryst it's actually not counter productive. Making that section thinner gives it a bit of torsional leeway. Given that impact bits tend to be a harder steel, it helps prevent snapping the tip of the bit off. If it was just a solid hex shank the whole way down the minute you bottomed out going full tilt you'd snap the tips off your drivers constantly. It's not counter-productive to act as a torque limiting attribute. Same concept at torque sticks for big impact wrenches.
@@ObservationofLimits it is completely counterproductive, you have an IMPACT BIT, that relies on the mechanism of IMPACTING hard, with a shock-absorber that ABSORBS IMPACTS built into it.. you literally couldn't make it any more counterproductive other than by putting a ball bearing swivel in it. and torque sticks have been totally written off as not accurate at all. if you are using torque sticks in automotive, yr literally gonna kill someone. dont be fucking lazy, use a torque wrench
Idk I’ve found the proper size bit with an impact shouldn’t strip a screw when properly used, impact-rated or not. Push into the piece as you drill, use an impact, and don’t use crap hardware and you shouldn’t have any issues with stripping at all. Having used both thin-shaft bits and regular bits of all variety, I can’t say I’ve noticed even the slightest bit of difference, figured the thin metal was to save on costs and allow more visibility than anything else.
Thank you very much for this instructional video!! My handy husband of 40 years recently passed away. When I went to find a tool I was overwhelmed. First I couldn’t figure out why there were so many “bits”. Then I couldn’t figure out how do take the bit out of one machine to change it. Then..the different lengths really got me. When I realized how many power tools were out there I nearly gave up. I went to the big box store and got one grumpy guy..no help. Then a very young, sweet kid had no idea what the difference between impact, drill, driver etc.was. He pulled out his phone..to google… Anyway, since he passed suddenly, he had so many little projects started. I spent a week putting everything away but left the bits and drills on the shop tables..Fortunately, they are all organized by types, in nice little boxes. I was going to ask a neighbor for help. You really helped me. I ended up spending way too long with a regular old screwdriver and it took forever. I really had no idea about the difference between a drill and impact driver. You just saved me some money. I want to get something light and almost ordered an “impact driver” online (since the big box store was so intimidating) I just need a nice light drill motor (I think). His drill motor is a bit older and very heavy… Now I wonder what those big sharp, round shaped things are and what tool they go to? Update..I just subscribed and saw your other video’s about the difference between screws and other hardware..I spent a week putting separating all the loose ones into jars, then I found all the boxes that I matched them up. I realized some were sharp and some were flat.. gonna watch my next lesson. I did go to Harbor Freight and got some plastic hardware boxes to organize them by shapes..no I can find out what they are all for..thank you!
There are quick change non-impact adapters for drill/drivers. They were developed before there were impact drivers. That's why they also have those notches.
The quick change bits have those notches for bit retention in bit holders that have retention clips, they use a release collar to eject the bit so you don’t have to fight the magnetic retention. (You had a picture of one version, that fat collar by the head was a release collar) those notches are not depth guides. Nice try though, they do work for that, but not their designed purpose.
i watch a lot of diy vids and I gotta say HC, you bring the best, in the quickest, most easiest to understand way. I've learned more from you alone than 4 years of woodshop and a 2-year stint in a machine shop! Thanks for keeping me safe, knowledgeable, and best of all, improving my diy skills exponentially!
Today I purchased an impact drillbit set for the first time. Viewing your explanation video on the subject provided me with all I needed to know about impact drillbits. Thank you for that!
I’m glad you showed the difference for diy people, I’m in a trade so I use Makita B-35097 Impact Gold Ultra-Magnetic Torsion Insert Bit Holder it’s like screws are glued to the bit, very strong magnetic field. Love your channel, keep up the great tips. Would like your option if it’s better to get a track saw system or a table saw. Which to purchase 1st. Almost the equivalent price.
I first want to say that this is an accurate and informative video. With that said, not something you need to worry about unless you buy a legit grade impact driver. Cheap impacts typically won’t even break garbage bits. Furthermore, I’ve snapped hundreds of bits and they always always always shared right at the tip, making the shaft reliefs on an impact bit a moot point. Even furthermore, shears only typically happen with Phillips or flatheads. It takes an impressive act of violence to snap a star bit. I’ve thrown whatever fits in my drills for decades, and one of my go to drills is an 18 volt holy grail makita (about as nasty as they get.) not to discredit safety here, but a snapping screwdriver bit at 3000 rpm’s or so isn’t exactly catastrophic.
Quite the opposite is true regarding shaft reliefs. Much like torque sticks for lug nuts, those relief shafts help by allowing torsional flex axially, thereby limiting the stress at the tip of the bit
You should teach a class on how to make a RUclips video. That was quick to the point not a bunch of jibber jabber and probably one of the best video I’ve ever seen.
For 90% of the work I do (softer woods) the "power bit" is just fine in the impact driver and I've never had an issue. However when playing with hardwoods that aren't appropriately pre-drilled and other harder items where the torque comes in I completely agree.
@@espressomatic I've NEVER understood how all the idiots got on board with using the impact function each and every time, as tho it actually made a difference. If you're not using a carbide bit on brick or concrete, etc, the impact function does nothing. It impacts FORWARD, thru the tool into the material, not ROTARY, like an air impact tool. I think the clowns on Hometime do that too often and spread the misinformation. These same clowns also omit thru holes in outer pieces of wood that they screw to pieces underneath, and just cram it thru.
Exactly the info I was looking for. I've been holding off buying an impact driver because it was the bit differences that confused me especially the ones with the notches but as you said they are not designed to be used with impact drivers. OK so now I can get that impact driver and a set of power bits. Thanks for clearing this up!
This video was so necessary for me to quickly learn the difference as I'm shopping real-time for my mini impact electric screwdriver. Thanks so much. Very informative.
Thank you. These videos you do are so helpful since my husband passed away and i find myself doing things i never had to worry about before and they releave some anxiety of those tasks. God Bless all with His grace, peace and love
I finally treated myself to an impact driver this year and so glad I did! Thought I was using the correct bits though, what you call "power bits". Haven't broken any so far, obviously not trying hard enough.
It’s simply for connivence. Locking power-bit shafts for printers, security cameras, and networking racks or any install and tech kind of stuff and not having bits fall when in a lift is why I use them. Often screwing into plastic, threaded aluminum mounting brackets, and brass inserts. I don’t always need the impact bit strength and am usually using various security bits. Very small hex and torx 40 feet in the air with lanyards on all my tools. Using a Milwaukee installation driver, that is an impact. It sinks self tappers in very thick aluminum extruded beams that are holding windows and automatic doors like in grocery stores.
Thanks so much for posting this! I have all kinds of bits and had no idea that they were intended for different uses and are not necessarily interchangeable. I've been using an impact driver a LOT the past week and while I had impact driver pieces for 1/2" and 3/8", I only had the chrome sockets, which I understand are not supposed to be used with an impact driver. I've since bought sockets designed for impact tools. 👍
Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" ruclips.net/user/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
The Honest Carpenter never disappoints. I always learn something. Note, I once put an insert bit into an impact driver and it recessed so far I couldn't get it out. I had to trash the impact driver.
You can use various types of bits in an impact driver and they work fine depending on what you are doing. If you are driving fasteners into wood you won't have a problem with breaking bits from impact forces but if you are driving fasteners into metal where they can bottom out suddenly then you will break bits if you keep your finger on the trigger too long. The reduced shank in impact rated bits is patterned after torque limiting extensions used with impact wrenches for automotive uses. Those extensions are long enough to allow the reduced torsional stiffness to work to reduce torque. The little ones made for 1/4" hex impact wrenches are not long enough for this to be effective. I've seen people break those bits probably more than the standard bits. There might be a difference from one bit type to another, but the biggest difference will be between different manufacturers. The impact rated bit from one manufacturer might not be as strong as the plain ordinary bit from another manufacturer.
Holy cow Honest Carpenter, you take a very simple topic and make it so entertaining and still filled with a ton of knowledge and information. Well done Sir. Cheers from Canada. 🇨🇦
I am a first time power tool user. This was very helpful. Thank you very much. I will be coming back to your channel for more inquiries because I'm sure I will happen.
Impact bits are only new and once upon a time we used to only have non impact bits with the ball lock groove. The groove is there for lock interchange chucks which can be found on many different tools. It's just like SDS plus chucks can use non hammer tools in their hammer chucks. The little slits on the short bits aren't a guide for length they're a lock groove too. The interchange bits were originally designed for screw drivers and electric screw drivers the interchange bits were made to turn standard drills into screw drivers which is why they started to put screw chucks onto drills.
Because of you i had the courage to drill my first nail using the drill bit. And because your content id thoroughly explained clearly fir a dummy like me who meber knew 1 but about using a drill. Thank you im glad i found you.
The first thing I did with my impact driver was get an insert bit very stuck. It was a real pain to get it back out, and I learned the difference pretty quickly after that lol
I have used the makita power bits both with impact driver and a driver/drill. They cam out easily if you are not careful. They may strip the screw or theselves, sometimes they break as well. I had high hopes with the Milwaukee x10 life impact ones. They don't cam out, they don't strip the bits and never get stripped. However, they break as easily, (maybe even more easily than the driver bits), right at the tip area. On RUclips, there were some guys testing the x50 model and they broke it easily. Milwaukee's answer was that, since they are made of harder metals to prevent the stripping, they tend to break easily. Wtf? I would expect the impact bits to be less likely to break. Making a bit harder but fragile is not a material science. That's a normal sequence. But if you could add that toughness, now you are doing something successful.
Project Farm did a video on those power bits, in the end they’re not as strong as they’re rated for. They all snapped. So for us homeowners it doesn’t really matter what bit we use. Unless it’s something you need crazy strong torque on any of those regular bits in an impact gun are fine.
Thanks for this, Ethan! I never knew you shouldn't use non-impact bits in impact drivers. Looks like I'll have to do a bit of shopping for impact bits now. The adage is true - you learn something new every day. Have a great day! :)
The bits are for all the cordless screwdrivers. Just about all major brands have them and they have a collet. Example: milwaukee m12 2401-20, Dewalt 8v screwdriver dcf 682n1.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Yes I have two, the Milwaukee 12v driver and the Bosch 12v driver, and these are the two drivers I reach for the most. Both with quick change collets.
@@TheHonestCarpenter please do some shorter long form videos like this on other basics of you have the time! I have all notifications on that's why I was so early with my comment. I'm a city boy but one day I'm gona just pack up and move to Oregon or something and be the biologist and farmer that I am at heart. And stuff like in this video is essential for my future success I'm sure.
@@TheHonestCarpenter also this is random as hell but look up the worx wx255L semi automatic screwdriver. It's a gimmicky tool but I just got one and it has already come in handy just for tightening random loose screws around the house. It holds 6 screws and they can be interchanged like a revolver basically. It's not a main tool by any means this thing. But I like it a lot lol
THANKS ETHAN …🤗 One thing since I retired I still bought impact drivers and the whole bit set for any projects that I do come across and to help others ( like my kids )
Ive always used the screw holder sleeve you showed with normal bits on my dewalt 20v impact. Never had an issue. The black bits heads always explode on me. I stopped waisting money on them.
Good grief. I just got back from the store with the (apparently) wrong bits. Btw, if those bits don’t work on the impact driver, why is that what they sell them with?!
I've driven plenty of fasteners with normal long bits in an impact driver, maybe not ideal but you'll be fine in a pinch. I guess keep your eye pro on in case it explodes.
@@TheHonestCarpenter I’ll have to re-check it. I’m sure it’s just operator error. My usual problem is running the tool at an odd angle without sufficient force behind it. As soon as the screw acquires some torque, the bit jumps the groove, and I strip the bit.
@@GotGracexxxxx Just bear in mind some fastener types are more prone to cam out than others, or perhaps, are less forgiving of perfect technique. Using an impact driver alone (presumably with a good fitting bit) reduces cam out by quite a lot by virtue of the hammer and anvil resetting the contact surfaces with each impulse. (See Matthias Wandel's video on impacts and cam-out) Old fashioned Phillips will cam out, especially when worn out a lot more than say, Pozidriv or Torx.
@@wingedcoyote The thing on notice when I have to use non-impact rated S2 bits is that when it breaks it's almost random. An impact rated bit will almost always go in the torsion zone. Worse still the normal bit will send that impulse into your brittle fastener and break the head or shank. When I'm working on something I'd rather break a bit than break a 3" deck screw in my project. Extracting broken screws is an exercise in inner peace.
I found out that the DeWalt impact rated bits will break while using a 1/4” impact drill. Plus those impact Phillips bits will strip out the Phillips head screws using the impact drill, I use my cordless drill instead, no more stripped screw heads. Thanks for what you’re doing, it’ll help many guys
Hola! 🖐I learned the hard way what the difference was, yes - I broke more than one bit. I wish I could have learned this long ago but good on you for posting this video. I'm sure that many DIYers will benefit from watching this. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊
Thanks so much for explaining! So glad I saw this video. I just got an impact driver yesterday & thought I had the correct bits - they have the power grooves. As always, appreciate your help on my builders journey!
Quick tip for when you only have a drill type bit but need to use the impact gun: a torsion bit holder will make them last much longer than putting it straight into the machine. In a pinch, I've stacked two bit holders to make the one Tx20 bit i had last to the end of the job. As for the power groove on non-impact rated bits: there are electric screwdrivers with a quick change collar on them. I have two Makitas that look about the same, but one goes bzzz and the other goes BRRRR. Plus after they break they are ok as 6mm hex bits for a little bit.
Thank you again for another direct-to-the-point, clear explanation. I knew there were some differences between bits, but did not clearly understand the differences in the bit kits that I had purchased. Between your presentation and some of the knowledgeable comments below, I feel now have a handle on the differences and even some of the history behind them. Thank you!
The detent groove on 1/4" hex shank bits predates impact drivers. Early quick change hand screw drivers used them, but overall winged bits being more common for quick bit hand screw drivers when I was a youngin'. In Japan (Japanese Industrial Standards) the detent location in a slightly location so there are bit compatibility issues between different JDM tools and western tools. The JIS has a longer tail end on the bottom of the hex shank (longer than our standard 3/8" length) so it might not lock into some collets. I'm sure someone out there has a patent paper or scan showing when someone first used the chucking detent groove.
I was handed down a slightly weird hammer drill that uses a so-called SDS quick chuck. It's smaller than normal SDS and I thought it was kind of dumb until I figured out it can also take normal hex bits. So I can use power bits of all kinds and shrunk down SDS bits for when I need to drill into walls. And I already had some hex drill bits lying around so it was actually one of the better hand me downs I ever received. Some of the best $0 I ever spent.
In addition to the great comments I have seen, there are many non-impact bit drivers and electric screwdrivers on the market that use the quick release mechanism. I’ve seen this setup marketed as positive bit retention (magnetic retainers are not perfect, bits still get pulled out)
Aww, thank you mrmile!! That means a lot to me! I hope he enjoys it! I may even taken them to traditional publishers and agents soon-never know what could happen 😄
From my recollection, "Power bits" were the original standard. It was all we could get for 10 years or so. With the growing popularity and strength of impact drivers, the standard bits were not standing up to the extra torque. So 'Impact bits' were created. The tips are extra hard so don't strip as easy, and the thinner shaft provides a torque relief. I've driven a ton of #2 square slot deck screws and personally have never had a bit break. But the power bits definitely strip the screw slots, and the bit itself, much easier than impact bits. I can sometimes use the same impact bit for a month or more of daily work.
I use quick release adapters on my drills that use the same ball bearing system as my driver. They use the groove too. It’s a good grip and easy to care for. Sometimes some dust builds up in there but a few pulls on the release and a blast of WD40 seems to clear them right up.
I'm glad this video came up in my feed. I've wondered about these different bits for years, especially the colorful impact-rated bits which I see some RUclips creators using. I guess I have yet another item to add to my ever-growing purchase-when-I-can-afford list! ;-) Thanks for doing this one!
My favorite channel! Question here, speaking of Torx bits too, does anybody hate T-20 head deck screw as much as me? Lol. I must have gotten a box of T-20s mixed in with my bin of deck screws and they come back to haunt me in my projects lol.
The flexibility of the impact bit neck is to better transfer torque to the screw. The impact drivers don't use "ratchet mechanism" either. They use rotational hummer action, where the hummer (also has a flywheel-like effect) is rotated by the motor, and spring is tentioned, until the hummer is released by the groove and it hits the output shaft with multiplied torque (of the motor). That is why they provide a lot higher torque at the output then them motor itself is capable of, even with the gearing. The impact bits help by having flexibility, as they store some of the energy between the impacts of the hummer. So when the hummer impacts again, the bit adds its stored energy as an additional torque to the output torque of the impact driver. So with impact bits you get even more torque transfered to the screw compared to the regular bits.
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THANK YOU!!! I have talked to many sales associates at big box, lumber, and hardware stores. Not one of those people could adequately explain to me about bits. For that matter, most couldn't explain the difference between drills and impact drivers. I am 66, a widow, and I LIKE the independence of having the 'know how' to do home fixes. In this social climate it is a survival skill.
I used to work at a contractor grade tool store in San Diego. Every great tool brand, tool repair and a super knowledgeable sale staff. What bit and tool do I need to drill this hole in concrete, what do I need for dust collection in my shop, what is an impact driver etc.
Unfortunately, amazon really put them out of business. RUclips is where you have to go for this knowledge now. Or forums like Reddit.
You have better results looking it up on Google before asking anybody that worked there. 😂😂😂
in response to your "hope it helps" comment: IMMENSELY. your channel is one of the rare channels that patiently explains things that may seem..... obvious to seasoned craftsman but is not for the rest of us. i absolutely appreciate you.
Thank you, Acronym! That’s exactly what I try to focus on these days. I’m glad it helps! 🙂
Your acknowledgement that you don't know why power bits have power grooves and inviting others to answer that question was great.
When someone teaches others about a topic but admits there are some facts they don't know, that increases my confidence in what they DO claim to know and teach.
I realize that above statement may come off as sarcasm to some but it's not and I honestly do think it's a great quality of this video. Thumbs up!
Here's a tip when buying impact bits -- buy different brands to color code by fastener type! For example, buy Milwaukee (red) torx bits, DeWalt (yellow) phillips bits, and Makita (blue) square bits.
Great idea! (though, I prefer to buy when things are on sale...) You can also use different colors of heat shrink and more easily apply your own color coding.
I always use different brands for all my screwdrivers 😊
Not because of the colour!!! 🌈
It's just the polite handshake every time I reach in my case. The tell me who they are without hesitation 😂😂😂
Or you could just look at the bit shape 😅
Oh I like this idea
lol. I do the same 👍
While I know this difference exists. I daily use the two kinds interchangeably(depending on whichever I find first) in an impact driver and have never had a “power bit” break on me my guess is your more likely to damage the fastener before you break a bit so to all those new comers I wouldn’t worry too much about spending the extra money on impact bits unless you plan to do a really serious amount of impacting and are organized enough to keep a bit long enough to break it.
Same here, and I am an installer by trade. I generally only buy impact bits. But I wouldn't take an extra trip down and back up a ladder to grab an impact bit if I had a non-impact one handy
Ditto. 35 years construction can’t recall ever a broken a bit with an impact driver. Quite a few with a straight drill-driver but then mostly in metal or concrete application or the tip of a slotted driver.
I was going to say roughly the same thing. I have built quite a few hardibacker showers that require a few hundred heavy duty heavy duty screws to install. I used screws that required square drives and I don't recall breaking a bit although the bits would wear to the point that they didn't grab the screw as well as a new one. I only recently became aware of the idea that impact rated bits should be used. They might be better, but you'd have to play close attention to how long bits last before you might notice that the impact rated bits are better.
I’ve only ever sheared impact bits when drilling holes in metal. Now I only use my impact on metal when I have the proper tool but it’s just out of reach
I've mullered plenty of bit tips myself. All of them have been rated for ugga-duggas & usually they have been insert bits, not full length quick release impact bits.
10 years as a hobby woodworker and I never knew this (yes, I have snapped a bit or two in my impact driver and just assumed it was workmanship). As always, thank you for making the videos you make. I enjoy your videos and learn something from just about everyone of them (sometimes to my embarrassment lol). Keep up the great and appreciated work!
Thank you, Richard! No shame in that-I’m constantly filling in gaps in my own knowledge. The channel has been a good learning opportunity for me too 🙂
I remember when I first started seeing the impact bits and they had marketing to state it was a torsion section for impacts
If it makes you feel any better I only knew because I read the marketing material from brands because sometimes its hilariously dumb why theirs is "better" than x brand and ended up learning why impact bits look like they do and realizing there was a difference. Some brands actually dive deep into why they are designed the way they are with charts and diagrams showing the forces on bits and how the design works, which is pretty cool and not just PR or bs marketing.
Honestly you're not gonna snap off normal driver bits unless you're overtightening shit or trying to drive something ridiculous that should have been predrilled.
Man, I’m a professional carpenter. And this video was kinda educational for me as well.
The power groove on standard bits was common in several brands years before impact drivers became common place. It served the same purpose in that there were extensions with spring loaded couplers that would hold them until the coupler was released so the bit would not drop out when you pulled it off the screw head.
Thank you, Purple! I think I entered construction at just the right time to miss this transition tool adaptor 😅
I like these bits because before I ever owned an impact gun I only had a drill driver. I bought a quick release adapter and these bits worked great. I could change bits fast and they remained secure while using them.
@@TheHonestCarpenter also I’ve seen non-impact drivers, at least on Ryobi and Milwaukee lineups
Yeah, you beat me to it, quick release was around long before impacts. Impacts just adopted the setup.
Yep! I have a "Sears Craftsman Professional" quick release drill bit kit that I still use today. I picked it up 25 years ago.
The quick change groove is a fun bit of engineering, manufacturing, and political history:
Power bits have the same groove as impact bits as a historical artifact. Before power drills were allowed to be sold as "drill/driver" combos, power screw drivers and impact screw drivers entered the market (1960's). Power screw drivers were notoriously bad at holding longer bits, so they adopted the "quick change" feature of the impact driver and scaled it to the now common 1/4 inch hex.
Over time and with advancements in materials, impact drivers were able to be scaled down from 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch to the now common 1/4 inch. This meant a single manufacturing system could produce both bit types by essentially changing only the input material. This was a major economic gain for the manufacturers both in production cost savings and the ability to bring impact drivers to the DYI market at an affordable price. At the same time, several patents, laws, and regulations were changed which now allowed any variable speed drill to be marketed as a drill/driver. The torque limiting chuck was very nearly a simultaneous release.
Since manufacturers had no reason to retool their lines (a very expensive procedure without any demonstrable financial gain), the now mostly superfluous grove on power bits remained. Virtually all impact tools (drivers, wrenches, etc.) clearly and conspicuously state in the operations manual to use exclusively impact rated accessories (bits, sockets, etc.). As a result manufactures of bits are only required to note that a particular accessory is impact rated on the packaging and and provided instructions, not on the accessory itself. Thus the legacy groove is meaningless for identification purposes. The distinguishing differences of colored bands, neck sizing, etc. are all Very recent (primarily post 2000), and were driven by users requesting simplified ID of impact vs. other types of accessories (specifically after throwing out the packaging and "user manual / instructions).
Some "conspiracy theorists" also attempt to suggest that the groove remains on non-impact accessories as a way to tempt people into using them in impact tools so that the bits will break and the manufacturer is able to sell more bits -- a form of "planned obsolescence. However this is not the case. As noted earlier, there are numerous electric screw drivers that use the quick release system, as well as many smaller 1/4 inch drills common in the home/DYI market - especially outside of North America. So again, why would manufacturers change their production lines when doing so would cost money without increasing profits?
This is probably the best, most complete analysis of the power groove that anyone will post. Thanks Michael!! 😁
@@TheHonestCarpenter You're most welcome Ethan. You have a great show and provide a very valuable service. I have learned a great deal from you. So I am glad when my background is able to repay in some small part the wealth of knowledge I have gained.
Please keep up the great work.
This is probably the best comment I've ever come across on RUclips. Thanks for the knowledge drop on a subject I never would've found otherwise.
I've never had a regular bit break while using an impact driver, and not sure I've ever used an impact bit with any regulatory
This lines up with what I was kind of thinking after the video. I actually have a few bosch drill/drivers that use the quick change power bits as well as a bosch and craftsman impact which of course also use quick change but I had a drill/driver with quick change way before I ever got an impact. Though to note I just buy impact bits because why not? Especially since bosch and makita impact bits are really cheap for some good quality, I also like the craftsman bits but they are not always as reliably cheap but they are still good quality. (im a fan of 3.5" and 6" impact bits and makita is kind of the best game in town for price/quality there)
Nice, you must have been in manufacturing.
Nice to know. However, I have used regular bits in impact drivers for years and have had almost no failures. Unless you are primarily using big, long screws, impact bits are only marginally useful. If impact bit would prevent me from losing them at the same pace I lose regular bits, THAT would be an awesome feature.
Yeah, I use quality made in Germany, 1 quid each, 'power bits' because impact bits never existed 14 years ago when I got my first impact driver, I saw some makita ones, they were 14 quid for 2! Well, they were shite, my 18v bosch snapped it off like a carrot! The normal power bits last for ages on normal size screws up to no5 x 150. Anything bigger than that an I just use a new one an most of the time you get the job done without breaking the bit.
@@michaelbamber4887 Well, you got ripped off. I bought a set of 18 Milwaukee impact bits for 20 canadian dollars. $14 for 2 is way too much
@tcg1_qc years ago remember. New items out, so hence price. I have some here now that were £6 for 5 bits. They last ok now.
@@michaelbamber4887 oh, for some reason I thought you were talking about today
@tcg1_qc ha, no, until now, I've been to tight to even look at them because the £1 each German ones have 2 ends on um, 50p a go!
Impact drivers use an impacting anvil to increase their torque, not a ratcheting mechanism. The addition of the impact force also increases shock factor whel loosening fasteners. Also, the groove came before impact drivers were on the market, it was for tools that offered a quick release chuck.
the internal mechanism is certainly not a ratchet, but i think the point being made is that the screw becomes a defacto ratchet at the screw/wood interface, whereby anytime it binds the impact overcomes the static friction to slide it forward again
@@5naxalotl no,, he just doesnt understand how impact drivers works and said it uses a ratchet mechanism because the clicking noise it makes sounds like the clicking noise that a ratchet makes
unintendedpurposes is right. Quick change bits have been around longer than The “Honest” Carpenter has been alive. It’s the “torsion zone” gimmick that’s new.
Using less metal in each bit ALMOST seems logical, but it doesn’t keep bit tips from breaking. Also, an impact driver isn’t needed to break but tips. In my 29 year career, I’ve broken more bit tips with a drill than I have with an impact… regardless of bit type.
In the early 2000’s the best bits on the market were “cryogenically frozen” Bosch bits with serrations on the top. They were hard… very hard! They nearly never wore out but occasionally one would snap right off in the screw head as it reached final torque. DeWalt made some with serrated tips but not hardened. They gripped well but eventually did wear out.
So, the moral is buy good bits, do good work, and never mind the gimmicks unless they actually deliver. THAT’S honest carpentry.
I think he was alluding to the fact that the action on an impact drill is rotational (like a ratchet) . its not forward like a hammer drill
I had this exact problem yesterday when using my impact driver for the first time. I have learned so much from your videos. How to use tools safely, using the right tool for the specific job, and overall tool and accessory vocabulary 😊 Thank you
I've been a carpenter for 20yrs and just learned something new today. I always used the correct bit I guess just instinctively, but didn't know this.
I was the exact same way for a long time until I read an article about it somewhere along the way, Daniel. Came as a surprise to me as I’d been using the bits so long. Thanks for watching! 😄
The deep round groove is for a ball detent bit holder. As noted by others, these predate 1/4” Drive impact drivers. The shallow skinny groove as seen on 1” insert bits is for a wire detent, as found in bit holders and built into traditional corded drywall screw guns.
WOW and SUPER WOW. Now I finally know what all those tiny bits are for, and the skinny necked ones. Your explanation of how each one was designed to be used was, as usual, a real game changer for me. I always look forward to your vids. Even when they are about a tool that I will not need, such as a chop saw, just knowing about them is fun for me.
Many years doing stuff and didn't know most of the information contained in your video. Clear and articulate as usual.
Taking on home projects as a first time DIY'er and I just learned that I've been using the wrong bits/combos this entire time! Thank you so much for the lesson! So much appreciated!
I have no idea why this was recommended to me, but I learned useful information today that I'd never thought to ask about before.
20 years of hobby use, you certainly solved some mysteries tonight, thank you
A very important point that was missed is that the torsional flex in the shaft of the impact bit will help keep the bit from camming out on the fastener. i.e. You are a lot less likely to strip the head of the fastener with an impact bit. The shaft absorbs the blow so the bit stays in the socket of the fastener. This is the main benefit as far as I am concerned...
and thats what the flex section is designed for - not for absorbing impacts (thats just counter-productive). the video maker really doesnt know what he's talking about. its quite obvious he only works with wood, where these kinda blatant mistakes won't result in catastrophic failures
That's also my understanding. I have broken as many impact bits as any other, but the impact bits don't cam out and strip heads before the screw is seated nearly as often.
@@Ghryst it's actually not counter productive. Making that section thinner gives it a bit of torsional leeway. Given that impact bits tend to be a harder steel, it helps prevent snapping the tip of the bit off.
If it was just a solid hex shank the whole way down the minute you bottomed out going full tilt you'd snap the tips off your drivers constantly.
It's not counter-productive to act as a torque limiting attribute. Same concept at torque sticks for big impact wrenches.
@@ObservationofLimits it is completely counterproductive, you have an IMPACT BIT, that relies on the mechanism of IMPACTING hard, with a shock-absorber that ABSORBS IMPACTS built into it..
you literally couldn't make it any more counterproductive other than by putting a ball bearing swivel in it.
and torque sticks have been totally written off as not accurate at all. if you are using torque sticks in automotive, yr literally gonna kill someone. dont be fucking lazy, use a torque wrench
Idk I’ve found the proper size bit with an impact shouldn’t strip a screw when properly used, impact-rated or not. Push into the piece as you drill, use an impact, and don’t use crap hardware and you shouldn’t have any issues with stripping at all. Having used both thin-shaft bits and regular bits of all variety, I can’t say I’ve noticed even the slightest bit of difference, figured the thin metal was to save on costs and allow more visibility than anything else.
Thank you very much for this instructional video!! My handy husband of 40 years recently passed away. When I went to find a tool I was overwhelmed. First I couldn’t figure out why there were so many “bits”. Then I couldn’t figure out how do take the bit out of one machine to change it. Then..the different lengths really got me. When I realized how many power tools were out there I nearly gave up. I went to the big box store and got one grumpy guy..no help. Then a very young, sweet kid had no idea what the difference between impact, drill, driver etc.was. He pulled out his phone..to google… Anyway, since he passed suddenly, he had so many little projects started. I spent a week putting everything away but left the bits and drills on the shop tables..Fortunately, they are all organized by types, in nice little boxes. I was going to ask a neighbor for help. You really helped me. I ended up spending way too long with a regular old screwdriver and it took forever. I really had no idea about the difference between a drill and impact driver. You just saved me some money. I want to get something light and almost ordered an “impact driver” online (since the big box store was so intimidating) I just need a nice light drill motor (I think). His drill motor is a bit older and very heavy… Now I wonder what those big sharp, round shaped things are and what tool they go to? Update..I just subscribed and saw your other video’s about the difference between screws and other hardware..I spent a week putting separating all the loose ones into jars, then I found all the boxes that I matched them up. I realized some were sharp and some were flat.. gonna watch my next lesson. I did go to Harbor Freight and got some plastic hardware boxes to organize them by shapes..no I can find out what they are all for..thank you!
There are quick change non-impact adapters for drill/drivers. They were developed before there were impact drivers. That's why they also have those notches.
Thank you! That’s what I surmised. But I just see them so rarely that I wasn’t sure if I’d missed some phase of tool development. 😅 I appreciate that!
Also there are some impact rates models without that skinny part.
The quick change bits have those notches for bit retention in bit holders that have retention clips, they use a release collar to eject the bit so you don’t have to fight the magnetic retention. (You had a picture of one version, that fat collar by the head was a release collar) those notches are not depth guides. Nice try though, they do work for that, but not their designed purpose.
i watch a lot of diy vids and I gotta say HC, you bring the best, in the quickest, most easiest to understand way. I've learned more from you alone than 4 years of woodshop and a 2-year stint in a machine shop! Thanks for keeping me safe, knowledgeable, and best of all, improving my diy skills exponentially!
Thank you, Steven! 😄
Electric screw drivers also have a collet very similar to impact drivers so the quick change groove is nice for that use case.
Today I purchased an impact drillbit set for the first time.
Viewing your explanation video on the subject provided me with all I needed to know about impact drillbits.
Thank you for that!
I’m glad you showed the difference for diy people, I’m in a trade so I use Makita B-35097 Impact Gold Ultra-Magnetic Torsion Insert Bit Holder it’s like screws are glued to the bit, very strong magnetic field. Love your channel, keep up the great tips. Would like your option if it’s better to get a track saw system or a table saw. Which to purchase 1st. Almost the equivalent price.
Just bought a set of T25 impact bits for our impact driver because "I just like them better." Now I know there's a reason they are better. Thanks!
That’s good stuff, Douglas!
I first want to say that this is an accurate and informative video. With that said, not something you need to worry about unless you buy a legit grade impact driver. Cheap impacts typically won’t even break garbage bits. Furthermore, I’ve snapped hundreds of bits and they always always always shared right at the tip, making the shaft reliefs on an impact bit a moot point. Even furthermore, shears only typically happen with Phillips or flatheads. It takes an impressive act of violence to snap a star bit. I’ve thrown whatever fits in my drills for decades, and one of my go to drills is an 18 volt holy grail makita (about as nasty as they get.) not to discredit safety here, but a snapping screwdriver bit at 3000 rpm’s or so isn’t exactly catastrophic.
Quite the opposite is true regarding shaft reliefs. Much like torque sticks for lug nuts, those relief shafts help by allowing torsional flex axially, thereby limiting the stress at the tip of the bit
You should teach a class on how to make a RUclips video. That was quick to the point not a bunch of jibber jabber and probably one of the best video I’ve ever seen.
Super helpful and informative. You don’t know what you don’t know until you get enlightened on your show. Thank you!
For 90% of the work I do (softer woods) the "power bit" is just fine in the impact driver and I've never had an issue. However when playing with hardwoods that aren't appropriately pre-drilled and other harder items where the torque comes in I completely agree.
Use a drill like a professional. Impact drivers aren't for driving wood screws.
@@espressomatic yet in the right circumstances they do such a good job.
Saws weren't originally intended for metals yet here we are :P
@@espressomatic I've NEVER understood how all the idiots got on board with using the impact function each and every time, as tho it actually made a difference. If you're not using a carbide bit on brick or concrete, etc, the impact function does nothing. It impacts FORWARD, thru the tool into the material, not ROTARY, like an air impact tool. I think the clowns on Hometime do that too often and spread the misinformation. These same clowns also omit thru holes in outer pieces of wood that they screw to pieces underneath, and just cram it thru.
Wow! I had no idea what the difference was! Recently, I shattered 15 brand new bits on my Dewalt impact driver. Now I understand why!
Exactly the info I was looking for. I've been holding off buying an impact driver because it was the bit differences that confused me especially the ones with the notches but as you said they are not designed to be used with impact drivers. OK so now I can get that impact driver and a set of power bits. Thanks for clearing this up!
This video was so necessary for me to quickly learn the difference as I'm shopping real-time for my mini impact electric screwdriver. Thanks so much. Very informative.
Thank you, finally someone explained this to me after 30 years of using these tools.
Now I know, thanks.
Happy to help, Buick! 😄
Thank you. These videos you do are so helpful since my husband passed away and i find myself doing things i never had to worry about before and they releave some anxiety of those tasks. God Bless all with His grace, peace and love
Thank you, vintage!! I’m very glad they’re helpful. Wishing you all the best, and work safe! 🙂
I finally treated myself to an impact driver this year and so glad I did! Thought I was using the correct bits though, what you call "power bits". Haven't broken any so far, obviously not trying hard enough.
They’ll sometimes make it pretty far, Khakoo! But when they break it’s often sudden and possibly dangerous
It’s simply for connivence. Locking power-bit shafts for printers, security cameras, and networking racks or any install and tech kind of stuff and not having bits fall when in a lift is why I use them. Often screwing into plastic, threaded aluminum mounting brackets, and brass inserts. I don’t always need the impact bit strength and am usually using various security bits. Very small hex and torx 40 feet in the air with lanyards on all my tools.
Using a Milwaukee installation driver, that is an impact. It sinks self tappers in very thick aluminum extruded beams that are holding windows and automatic doors like in grocery stores.
I always watch your channel ,I’m a master carpenter and it’s always good to get a different ideas from other woodworkers
That’s awesome, Just Learning! Glad to have other carpenters watching 😄
Thanks so much for posting this! I have all kinds of bits and had no idea that they were intended for different uses and are not necessarily interchangeable. I've been using an impact driver a LOT the past week and while I had impact driver pieces for 1/2" and 3/8", I only had the chrome sockets, which I understand are not supposed to be used with an impact driver. I've since bought sockets designed for impact tools. 👍
Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" ruclips.net/user/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
The Honest Carpenter never disappoints. I always learn something. Note, I once put an insert bit into an impact driver and it recessed so far I couldn't get it out. I had to trash the impact driver.
You can use various types of bits in an impact driver and they work fine depending on what you are doing. If you are driving fasteners into wood you won't have a problem with breaking bits from impact forces but if you are driving fasteners into metal where they can bottom out suddenly then you will break bits if you keep your finger on the trigger too long. The reduced shank in impact rated bits is patterned after torque limiting extensions used with impact wrenches for automotive uses. Those extensions are long enough to allow the reduced torsional stiffness to work to reduce torque. The little ones made for 1/4" hex impact wrenches are not long enough for this to be effective. I've seen people break those bits probably more than the standard bits. There might be a difference from one bit type to another, but the biggest difference will be between different manufacturers. The impact rated bit from one manufacturer might not be as strong as the plain ordinary bit from another manufacturer.
💯 agree
Holy cow Honest Carpenter, you take a very simple topic and make it so entertaining and still filled with a ton of knowledge and information. Well done Sir. Cheers from Canada. 🇨🇦
Thank you, Gerry! 😄
Great tutorial, Ethan. I've been using all 3 types of bits for years and still learned something from you today. Again, many thanks.
I am a first time power tool user. This was very helpful. Thank you very much. I will be coming back to your channel for more inquiries because I'm sure I will happen.
Impact bits are only new and once upon a time we used to only have non impact bits with the ball lock groove. The groove is there for lock interchange chucks which can be found on many different tools. It's just like SDS plus chucks can use non hammer tools in their hammer chucks.
The little slits on the short bits aren't a guide for length they're a lock groove too.
The interchange bits were originally designed for screw drivers and electric screw drivers the interchange bits were made to turn standard drills into screw drivers which is why they started to put screw chucks onto drills.
Going out dancing with my wife this weekend. I told her I’m gonna show her the Power Groove and the Quick Change Groove. She’s excited.
Always learning new tricks & tips from pros like yourself Ethan. Keep ‘em coming my man.
Thank you, Bill! Will do 😄
Because of you i had the courage to drill my first nail using the drill bit. And because your content id thoroughly explained clearly fir a dummy like me who meber knew 1 but about using a drill. Thank you im glad i found you.
The first thing I did with my impact driver was get an insert bit very stuck. It was a real pain to get it back out, and I learned the difference pretty quickly after that lol
That’s what happens with them! You can get jabbed crazy hard with the broken bits too. Dangerous!😬
This is the information that is oh so important but is rarely ever taught thank you so much for these incredibly informative videos.
I've actually seen those Milwaukee Impact-rated bits at Dollar Tree before, & the benefit of those is they don't wear down as fast.
Milwaukee makes great stuff all around, W!
I have used the makita power bits both with impact driver and a driver/drill. They cam out easily if you are not careful. They may strip the screw or theselves, sometimes they break as well. I had high hopes with the Milwaukee x10 life impact ones. They don't cam out, they don't strip the bits and never get stripped. However, they break as easily, (maybe even more easily than the driver bits), right at the tip area. On RUclips, there were some guys testing the x50 model and they broke it easily. Milwaukee's answer was that, since they are made of harder metals to prevent the stripping, they tend to break easily. Wtf? I would expect the impact bits to be less likely to break. Making a bit harder but fragile is not a material science. That's a normal sequence. But if you could add that toughness, now you are doing something successful.
Project Farm did a video on those power bits, in the end they’re not as strong as they’re rated for. They all snapped. So for us homeowners it doesn’t really matter what bit we use. Unless it’s something you need crazy strong torque on any of those regular bits in an impact gun are fine.
Thanks for this, Ethan! I never knew you shouldn't use non-impact bits in impact drivers. Looks like I'll have to do a bit of shopping for impact bits now. The adage is true - you learn something new every day. Have a great day! :)
Thanks Andrea! They’re abundant now, with some pretty good deals 😄
Once I finally learned how to use the different settings on my drill I’ve never gone back to using my impact. Great informative video still!
Where would we Doofus Dads be without guys like you to help us pretend we know what we’re doing when the wife comes nosing around?
What I’m here for, Gleaful! 😆
And doofus moms!
@@blmenden add doofus apprentices to that list
Completely agree!!! Thanks again for your knowledge!!
Ugh so accurate
I'm using an impact rated bit holder with a regular insert bit with my makita 12v impact driver and it works just great for the last 10 years
Power bits can also be inserted on non-impact driver drills without having to fuss with a chuck. There is where non-impact power bits are useful.
With a quick-change collet, og? I just don’t see them very often. Always keyless 3-jaw chucks. 🤔
@@TheHonestCarpenter You could use them in an installation driver that has changing heads like Milwaukee's or Bosch's.
The bits are for all the cordless screwdrivers. Just about all major brands have them and they have a collet. Example: milwaukee m12 2401-20, Dewalt 8v screwdriver dcf 682n1.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Yes I have two, the Milwaukee 12v driver and the Bosch 12v driver, and these are the two drivers I reach for the most. Both with quick change collets.
Is this real?
Quick and dirty run downs with all the information needed. I love videos like this!!
I need to know this. Thank you
It’s good bedrock stuff, bx! 😄
@@TheHonestCarpenter please do some shorter long form videos like this on other basics of you have the time! I have all notifications on that's why I was so early with my comment. I'm a city boy but one day I'm gona just pack up and move to Oregon or something and be the biologist and farmer that I am at heart.
And stuff like in this video is essential for my future success I'm sure.
@@TheHonestCarpenter also this is random as hell but look up the worx wx255L semi automatic screwdriver. It's a gimmicky tool but I just got one and it has already come in handy just for tightening random loose screws around the house. It holds 6 screws and they can be interchanged like a revolver basically. It's not a main tool by any means this thing. But I like it a lot lol
THANKS ETHAN …🤗 One thing since I retired I still bought impact drivers and the whole bit set for any projects that I do come across and to help others ( like my kids )
Nice video, Thanks 😎😎
You’re welcome, Tool Nerd!
Ive always used the screw holder sleeve you showed with normal bits on my dewalt 20v impact. Never had an issue. The black bits heads always explode on me. I stopped waisting money on them.
This is very helpful thank soo much
You’re welcome, Ryan!
having bought a dewalt impact driver (and loving it) recently, this was very helpful. Thanks!
You taught me a lot.
Thanks Vee 😁
i just got a new DeWalt impact drill and this video has helped me so much. Thank you very much.
Good grief. I just got back from the store with the (apparently) wrong bits. Btw, if those bits don’t work on the impact driver, why is that what they sell them with?!
That surprises me David! They’re messing with impact bit finishes to stand out as brands-there could be some new color confusion here! 😬
I've driven plenty of fasteners with normal long bits in an impact driver, maybe not ideal but you'll be fine in a pinch. I guess keep your eye pro on in case it explodes.
@@TheHonestCarpenter I’ll have to re-check it. I’m sure it’s just operator error. My usual problem is running the tool at an odd angle without sufficient force behind it. As soon as the screw acquires some torque, the bit jumps the groove, and I strip the bit.
@@GotGracexxxxx Just bear in mind some fastener types are more prone to cam out than others, or perhaps, are less forgiving of perfect technique. Using an impact driver alone (presumably with a good fitting bit) reduces cam out by quite a lot by virtue of the hammer and anvil resetting the contact surfaces with each impulse. (See Matthias Wandel's video on impacts and cam-out)
Old fashioned Phillips will cam out, especially when worn out a lot more than say, Pozidriv or Torx.
@@wingedcoyote The thing on notice when I have to use non-impact rated S2 bits is that when it breaks it's almost random. An impact rated bit will almost always go in the torsion zone.
Worse still the normal bit will send that impulse into your brittle fastener and break the head or shank. When I'm working on something I'd rather break a bit than break a 3" deck screw in my project.
Extracting broken screws is an exercise in inner peace.
I've been using impact drivers since about 2014 and never knew any of this. Thanks!
I found out that the DeWalt impact rated bits will break while using a 1/4” impact drill. Plus those impact Phillips bits will strip out the Phillips head screws using the impact drill, I use my cordless drill instead, no more stripped screw heads. Thanks for what you’re doing, it’ll help many guys
Hola! 🖐I learned the hard way what the difference was, yes - I broke more than one bit. I wish I could have learned this long ago but good on you for posting this video. I'm sure that many DIYers will benefit from watching this. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊
Every time I watch your videos you cover something Ive had questions about. Great video , very informative, thank you.
I’ve just picked up an impact driver and have been trying to learn about bits so this came at exactly the right time. Big thanks!
Sure thing, Thomas! 😄
Thanks so much for explaining! So glad I saw this video. I just got an impact driver yesterday & thought I had the correct bits - they have the power grooves. As always, appreciate your help on my builders journey!
They aren't power grooves they're quick change collet grooves.
Thanks for this tutorial! I had wondered what the difference and you did a great job of explaining it. Thanks for making this.
Thanks I now understand the different types of bits and when & wher3 to us3 them!👍👍🤓
So much has changed since we used to need chuck keys for everything!
Quick tip for when you only have a drill type bit but need to use the impact gun: a torsion bit holder will make them last much longer than putting it straight into the machine. In a pinch, I've stacked two bit holders to make the one Tx20 bit i had last to the end of the job.
As for the power groove on non-impact rated bits: there are electric screwdrivers with a quick change collar on them. I have two Makitas that look about the same, but one goes bzzz and the other goes BRRRR. Plus after they break they are ok as 6mm hex bits for a little bit.
Thank you again for another direct-to-the-point, clear explanation. I knew there were some differences between bits, but did not clearly understand the differences in the bit kits that I had purchased. Between your presentation and some of the knowledgeable comments below, I feel now have a handle on the differences and even some of the history behind them. Thank you!
The detent groove on 1/4" hex shank bits predates impact drivers. Early quick change hand screw drivers used them, but overall winged bits being more common for quick bit hand screw drivers when I was a youngin'.
In Japan (Japanese Industrial Standards) the detent location in a slightly location so there are bit compatibility issues between different JDM tools and western tools. The JIS has a longer tail end on the bottom of the hex shank (longer than our standard 3/8" length) so it might not lock into some collets.
I'm sure someone out there has a patent paper or scan showing when someone first used the chucking detent groove.
I was handed down a slightly weird hammer drill that uses a so-called SDS quick chuck. It's smaller than normal SDS and I thought it was kind of dumb until I figured out it can also take normal hex bits. So I can use power bits of all kinds and shrunk down SDS bits for when I need to drill into walls. And I already had some hex drill bits lying around so it was actually one of the better hand me downs I ever received. Some of the best $0 I ever spent.
In addition to the great comments I have seen, there are many non-impact bit drivers and electric screwdrivers on the market that use the quick release mechanism. I’ve seen this setup marketed as positive bit retention (magnetic retainers are not perfect, bits still get pulled out)
I read your first book and enjoyed it, very excited to read with my nephew. Nice work!
Aww, thank you mrmile!! That means a lot to me! I hope he enjoys it! I may even taken them to traditional publishers and agents soon-never know what could happen 😄
From my recollection, "Power bits" were the original standard. It was all we could get for 10 years or so. With the growing popularity and strength of impact drivers, the standard bits were not standing up to the extra torque. So 'Impact bits' were created.
The tips are extra hard so don't strip as easy, and the thinner shaft provides a torque relief.
I've driven a ton of #2 square slot deck screws and personally have never had a bit break. But the power bits definitely strip the screw slots, and the bit itself, much easier than impact bits. I can sometimes use the same impact bit for a month or more of daily work.
0:49. The little notches are not *designed* as an indicator, but to facilitate holding in place by the bit holder’s internal “c-clip” spring.
I use quick release adapters on my drills that use the same ball bearing system as my driver. They use the groove too. It’s a good grip and easy to care for. Sometimes some dust builds up in there but a few pulls on the release and a blast of WD40 seems to clear them right up.
Dude, that’s was just straight forward explanation! That’s what I was looking for. Got a new sub! 🤟🏼
I'm glad this video came up in my feed. I've wondered about these different bits for years, especially the colorful impact-rated bits which I see some RUclips creators using. I guess I have yet another item to add to my ever-growing purchase-when-I-can-afford list! ;-) Thanks for doing this one!
It evolved because 99% of buyers don't know (or believe) the difference between the two, and DeWalt wanted to capture as many customers as possible.
3:05 there are locking manual screwdriver handles and also locking bit holders/extensions that can use that groove
Great video - I wish the manual that came with my impact driver made it more clear about using impact-rated bits
Thanks! Now I know why the impact driver was eating my bits! Especially the PZ3 ones while sending larger 6MX60 screws into 2X4 and 4X4
That’ll do it! 😅
My favorite channel! Question here, speaking of Torx bits too, does anybody hate T-20 head deck screw as much as me? Lol. I must have gotten a box of T-20s mixed in with my bin of deck screws and they come back to haunt me in my projects lol.
The flexibility of the impact bit neck is to better transfer torque to the screw. The impact drivers don't use "ratchet mechanism" either. They use rotational hummer action, where the hummer (also has a flywheel-like effect) is rotated by the motor, and spring is tentioned, until the hummer is released by the groove and it hits the output shaft with multiplied torque (of the motor). That is why they provide a lot higher torque at the output then them motor itself is capable of, even with the gearing. The impact bits help by having flexibility, as they store some of the energy between the impacts of the hummer. So when the hummer impacts again, the bit adds its stored energy as an additional torque to the output torque of the impact driver. So with impact bits you get even more torque transfered to the screw compared to the regular bits.
Thanks I didn't realize the thinner round shafts were for impact bits. Will get a set.
I figured this out. Great video. I think they put deep groves on the non torque one so you buy more bits.
So THAT is what the bit holders are for. Thank you!
You’re welcome, Martha!
I have to say that quality brand impact bits in a DeWalt impact driver are impressive in performance and pretty long lasting too.
This was very useful. I wish I had seen this years ago, before I bought a bunch of bits.
thanks for being concise. short intro, and then 4 minutes of video for 4 minutes worth of info