60 YEAR OLD MAN SURFING THE 4'8" DRIFTER?
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- Опубликовано: 22 июн 2024
- Although I love to ride everything, my quest for riding small boards started when I saw Tom Curren ride the Fireball Fish in Rip Curl's The Search.
I am also a big Chris Won fan and love riding stand up bodyboards. So trying to combine a surfboard with a boogie has been a goal of mine since the late 90's. David Vernor's "Drifter" model is the closet that I have found. These are my first sessions on the board and it feels loose and drivey, electric under my feet. I have a lot to learn to master this little puck but am looking forward to the process!
Hit up Vernor and order one up to round out your quiver! vernorsurfboards.com
Video by Xia Roberts
Music: Jimmy Thompson - "Jimmy's Place"
Follow me on IG @trsurfing
and Vernor at @davidvernorsurf
Fins by @nakedvikingsurf
#boardstories #realsurfstories #trsurfing 
Развлечения
The one and only TR!! Good on ya Tony! Still ripping at 63… great genes and awesome life style !!!
I’ve been riding a 5’0” twinny fish for the past 10 years. Stepped down to a 4’7” version of the same board and was amazed at how if turns under/below where I though a surfboard could go. I’m 54 years old(-and 5’7” on a good day as they say) but keep pushing your limits! Seeing Tom Curren and Tazzy on skimboards in real surf is an inspiration
i still remember my first long ride that hooked me for life. for all the fails and short runs, that one run made up for them all. when time stops and your mind and body go into realm with its own vibration. something spiritual about riding nature without a motor or engine.
Being 54 this keeps my inspiration up high. Jist keep surfing and you will all be able to.
Yes!! And a proactive lifestyle!
Bushman Flow Twin with glass ons ....... BEST board ever for me! Been experimenting since 2006!
Has been ALL TIME flavor of the months:
5'10 CI Merrick Retro Twin 2008
5'4 Arakawa Stubby 2010
5'2 Tomo Vader 2012
5'6 Coil Industries M13 HP swallow quad 2014
5'3 FireWire Cymatic 2019
Bushman Flow 2023 (5'3 x 20 1/4 x 2 5/8)
62 here still riding 5'8"@32L It's the pop up that gets me...buckling my back toes 😂 keep it up man!
Same here man,, working on hip flexibility made a huge difference for my popups
I'm 69 and had that issue for a while. The fix is to never arch your back with your shoulders up as you pause before standing up causing you to stand up slower, drag your feet and end up off the sweet spot. Go directly to your feet without arching, it forces you to get up quickly and not make the mistake of dragging your feet. By arching I mean lifting your shoulders off the board with your arms extended and pausing before going to your feet. X the pause and all will be good.
Good call, my hips are super tight.@@DGT73
I do indeed arch as I coast in. Thanks for the tip...makes sense. @@smacker360
57 and ride a 5'10". Pop up is tougher as I tire through sessions. I'll consider any tips.
My little brother got sponsored when he was around 10yrs old, and the board they gave him was around 5.5, and i had a ride on it and was amazed at how responsive it was, caught one of the deepest barrels of my life and came out. That was back in the 90s, its taken us all these years to realize small boards are great for certain waves. I was riding a 6.1, it was like riding a log in comparison.
hi there tonny! nice knowing of you again, we met and surfed togehter in Costa Rica at avellanas and negra beach during the 90's. i am from Costa Rica. Great knowing you still surfing. Greetings and wishing good waves where ever you dwell.
Buena Nota Adolfo!! Good times!
Awesome. Surfing like a grom.
In the 80's. Mike Tabeling was the go to short board guy in Florida. I had many 5'5" twins .Loved em .Swallow ..square . Pin-tail didn't matter.Concave with channels.Worked em silly at Jacksonville 's North Jetty...Mayport Poles ..Blow Hole St.Augustine. Good times...Damn. good times.
Tabeling was a cherished close friend and major inspiration. He almost got us killed in Africa but thats how he lived: pushing the limits.
I was learning in the sixties when boards went from 8-9 foot monsters down to 5-6 foot twin fins Only recently I've been seeing some of the groundswellbreaking short board designs going into snall and big wave boards. Frankly, I think they're on to something. Talent AND design are needed for the very best.
I'm 69 and ride a 5'4" RNF. I've tried shorter boards, had a 5'3" cymatic for a while and loved it but at some point boards get too short for me as I'd step off the back on boards shorter than 5' and I missed the extra rail needed for nice drawn out roundhouse cutbacks. Anyway, congrats on still being able to ride normal short boards at 60. I call your 4'8" normal as it is the same liters as your daily driver.
I agree 100%. Its just something fun to play around on but need more rail for proper carving.
We somehow got hold of a 5’5 thruster squash PIG (neon orange) concave round nose… brought from California to Maui and it was INSANE hard to describe the functionality and speed it would generate. Unfortunately, it was stolen never to be seen again, but the ride feel and depression of that board will never leave us…⚡️👌
Must’ve been 91-ish
Get the TOMO EVO I guarantee it will work the same
Ya TR love the stoke and your channel 👊👊👊
I learned to surf on a 5’9” single fin, Dewey Weber Pigi in the late 80’s. It’s awesome to see the that it’s still alive! My experience with that type of board has been instrumental in my ability to learn and teach wing foiling. Rock on!! Jessica’s husband -Lu
Learned on a 5'9"? I believe learning on a longboard or something huge is crucial to cultivate good style and technique. If you surf with good style you are the exception. ruclips.net/video/R_8xHaa-wFE/видео.html
Amazing the photography you do while also ripping too! Always admired you work of the Santa Cruz vibe and working with all the core lords 🤘🏽🌊
Thank you Chris 🤙
Wicked.. picasco wrote at 86.. takes a long time too learn how too grow young!! 67.. surfer artist 🔥🔥🥰
Love that!!
Board looks so fun. The with all the color that board would make me pick it every time. I’ve had few board close to this but not this extreme. Once you have a solid session with it there will be that bond. Great channel.
I agree, it feels super interesting but can't wait to have that solid sesh.
Awesome stoke. Gorgeous board.
He makes riding an extremely short board easy. Wish I could do that 😮
Good on ya.keep.the positive vibes
Ageless surfing!! Looks like you were poppin' airs at Soquel. What a stoke!
🤙🤙🤙
You're ripping on that Drifter board!
That’s impressive surfing
Your killing it TR
Thanks Matty
floating carpet. that thing looks sick
I think there is alot to be said for the boards of the early 1990ś... A 6´2¨ with 6 channels off the tail, rounded squashtail... Tons of drive...I think those boards were so fast and could do anything...
Apples and oranges but yeah
great shape both of you
From New Zealand very cool 😎 🏄🏽♂️
I made those boards many years ago. Its like a skateboard on the water. Nobody could believe their eyes.
J’ai shapé une 5’0 qui avais les même caractéristiques et que j’adore aussi , je comprend la démarche dès transmission de force pour les ailerons mais je la gère en ayant des ailerons fixes , plus un volume max entre les pieds et un rocker plat . La planche est souple du pied avant au nez ce qui donne une compression au bottom qui se relâche et propulse la planche en avant ! Joli Shape et bonne recherche vers la planche courte, souple et nerveuse ! Enjoy
Ca a l'air incroyable, j'adore glass-ons!
Put a hard rail on it that goes 3/4 of the way up the board. That is how I made mine and they were loose and fast.
nice ride.. hada fish back when they got bigs in 2000s. kane gardens lol..KG ftw.
Those KG fishes are epic.
Hell yeah.
Maserati board ? Whow!!!
🎯
Tom curren experimenting with skimboards pretty neat
Major inspiration.
You livin the dream .
It's called a mini-Simmons (mix between a boogie board and a stand-up board with decent volume)
Vernor also shapes Mini Simmons. They have a straight rail whereas this board has a curved rail template.
different boards. And he makes a killer Mini Simmons also
😮
I’m 61 years old, 6’3” tall and 100kg naked. 45 years of surfing has taught me everyone should ride whatever floats their boat. Personally, I jumped on a 6’8 at 20 years old and never looked back. I’ve now graduated to a 7’6” mid-length. My advice to beginners would be to stay longer for longer.
Agree 100%
In the age race you never catch up you just catch less waves. I ride a 7'6, a 9'1, a 6'10 and a 5'10. I'm 77kg 6'1 67 and blind in one eye.
It's time to put your ego away at 50 and just ride what you prefer.
Magic surfboards quickly end up in the same place as the others.
@@rctrix9063 60 years old and catching more waves than ever. Love the 10' log and dozens of other boards down to this 4'8". No limits.
Alive we ride
Get in touch my friend
land locked right now.. miss the salt. thxu
❤️🤙❤️
For me as a 57 year shaper , that board doesn’t have enough length/Volume/Weight to carry throughout all the turns. You DID enjoy it,and that is all that matters…. ‘Nuff said..
I agree. Feels like it has some potential once I learn how to ride it though.
What is that music “ride on” who is doing it?
Jimmy Thompson - "Jimmy's Place"
Rad ❤
🙌
thought i was doing good at 40on my 6'2 lmao this guy
You are doing great Adam! Ride Everything!!
I'm a 61 year old woman- 5'7, 118 lbs and riding and riding a 5'9 Phantom pretty much everyday. Why does everyone think is such a big deal to be surfing over 50? 😜
Probably because many throw in the towel in their thirties.
allways rode sub 5'5 in all size surf sometimes to short is to short
Agree...but not this time.
I think it may be more about your awesome ability than the board! Just sayin
Eu fui com 30 anos ,, podia ir agora com 55 ,, mas agora tá tudo a trabalhar,, nem ski ,surf, motas ,,para sustentar a ex e os filhos,,costa rica demais
boa lição para os nossos surfistas mais jovens
How much do you weigh TR????
155
Almost Album Plasmic like ....... 4'8" not enough rail line ....... 5'3 MINIMUM!
It's a different sensation 🍎🍏🍊🍊
Looks like a kneeboard
Unpopular take here but I just feel like shark bait on tiny boards, guess that’s why I like longboards ha!
Action cures fear.
Little guy
5'9 155 👍
I’m 50 years old, still riding a 5’4 quad fish…
Don't get wet. Put the wheels back on and find a parking lot. That is NOT surfing that's skateboarding.
😂
I've got a little 4'11" that looks like a mini simmons but with a short board-ish squash tail and quad setup. (You can see the board in my profile pic) The thing goes pretty mental. Enjoyed the vid, thanks for posting.
looks very unstable...maybe a 4 fin set ... needs more foam for more fun
It feels like if my feet are in the right place its stable. I need to learn how to do it.
It's easier to surf a shortboard. Real men, surf logs. I am not biased, I surf a 5'8 DVS fish.
see opening clip 🤙
As the first two clips in this video demonstrate.
You can ride a 4'8" because you ain't much taller than that
I'm 5'9"
Too much butt wagging. Surfing's supposed to be fun.
You don't like, so be it but I was/am having a blast! 😄🤙
...and look at the first two clips in the video. Variety is the spice of life.
Tony R : i allready wrote to you ....
Would like to meet and have a chat
I am down in samana peninsula
My email is tonyrobertsphoto@gmail.com I am in Nicaragua now for Pacific surf season.
No offence it’s not the length of the board it’s speed of wave and ur flexibility agility in ur pop up. I still surf at 66 but I just not as flexible as 5 years ago. But I stll skateboard and drink wine eat chocolate and other fishy things. Get my drift. Great development guys.
Awesome Lawton! Keep up the stoke!!