60 YEAR OLD MAN SURFING THE 4'8" DRIFTER?

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  • Опубликовано: 23 дек 2024

Комментарии • 114

  • @SantaCruzLocal
    @SantaCruzLocal 8 месяцев назад +4

    The one and only TR!! Good on ya Tony! Still ripping at 63… great genes and awesome life style !!!

  • @KaiserSoze-dp1hw
    @KaiserSoze-dp1hw 8 месяцев назад +5

    I’ve been riding a 5’0” twinny fish for the past 10 years. Stepped down to a 4’7” version of the same board and was amazed at how if turns under/below where I though a surfboard could go. I’m 54 years old(-and 5’7” on a good day as they say) but keep pushing your limits! Seeing Tom Curren and Tazzy on skimboards in real surf is an inspiration

  • @williamhanley7031
    @williamhanley7031 8 месяцев назад +3

    Being 54 this keeps my inspiration up high. Jist keep surfing and you will all be able to.

  • @charlesgraham9954
    @charlesgraham9954 7 месяцев назад +1

    i still remember my first long ride that hooked me for life. for all the fails and short runs, that one run made up for them all. when time stops and your mind and body go into realm with its own vibration. something spiritual about riding nature without a motor or engine.

  • @adolfoarrieta5178
    @adolfoarrieta5178 8 месяцев назад +1

    hi there tonny! nice knowing of you again, we met and surfed togehter in Costa Rica at avellanas and negra beach during the 90's. i am from Costa Rica. Great knowing you still surfing. Greetings and wishing good waves where ever you dwell.

  • @troygunter2848
    @troygunter2848 8 месяцев назад +2

    In the 80's. Mike Tabeling was the go to short board guy in Florida. I had many 5'5" twins .Loved em .Swallow ..square . Pin-tail didn't matter.Concave with channels.Worked em silly at Jacksonville 's North Jetty...Mayport Poles ..Blow Hole St.Augustine. Good times...Damn. good times.

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      Tabeling was a cherished close friend and major inspiration. He almost got us killed in Africa but thats how he lived: pushing the limits.

  • @ThePokersurfer
    @ThePokersurfer 8 месяцев назад +2

    Bushman Flow Twin with glass ons ....... BEST board ever for me! Been experimenting since 2006!
    Has been ALL TIME flavor of the months:
    5'10 CI Merrick Retro Twin 2008
    5'4 Arakawa Stubby 2010
    5'2 Tomo Vader 2012
    5'6 Coil Industries M13 HP swallow quad 2014
    5'3 FireWire Cymatic 2019
    Bushman Flow 2023 (5'3 x 20 1/4 x 2 5/8)

  • @pickleforknwiggles634
    @pickleforknwiggles634 8 месяцев назад +7

    62 here still riding 5'8"@32L It's the pop up that gets me...buckling my back toes 😂 keep it up man!

    • @DGT73
      @DGT73 8 месяцев назад +2

      Same here man,, working on hip flexibility made a huge difference for my popups

    • @smacker360
      @smacker360 8 месяцев назад +5

      I'm 69 and had that issue for a while. The fix is to never arch your back with your shoulders up as you pause before standing up causing you to stand up slower, drag your feet and end up off the sweet spot. Go directly to your feet without arching, it forces you to get up quickly and not make the mistake of dragging your feet. By arching I mean lifting your shoulders off the board with your arms extended and pausing before going to your feet. X the pause and all will be good.

    • @pickleforknwiggles634
      @pickleforknwiggles634 8 месяцев назад

      Good call, my hips are super tight.@@DGT73

    • @pickleforknwiggles634
      @pickleforknwiggles634 8 месяцев назад

      I do indeed arch as I coast in. Thanks for the tip...makes sense. @@smacker360

    • @matthewroy7718
      @matthewroy7718 8 месяцев назад

      57 and ride a 5'10". Pop up is tougher as I tire through sessions. I'll consider any tips.

  • @theway3058
    @theway3058 8 месяцев назад +1

    Board looks so fun. The with all the color that board would make me pick it every time. I’ve had few board close to this but not this extreme. Once you have a solid session with it there will be that bond. Great channel.

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      I agree, it feels super interesting but can't wait to have that solid sesh.

  • @mackash
    @mackash 8 месяцев назад +1

    My little brother got sponsored when he was around 10yrs old, and the board they gave him was around 5.5, and i had a ride on it and was amazed at how responsive it was, caught one of the deepest barrels of my life and came out. That was back in the 90s, its taken us all these years to realize small boards are great for certain waves. I was riding a 6.1, it was like riding a log in comparison.

  • @smacker360
    @smacker360 8 месяцев назад +2

    I'm 69 and ride a 5'4" RNF. I've tried shorter boards, had a 5'3" cymatic for a while and loved it but at some point boards get too short for me as I'd step off the back on boards shorter than 5' and I missed the extra rail needed for nice drawn out roundhouse cutbacks. Anyway, congrats on still being able to ride normal short boards at 60. I call your 4'8" normal as it is the same liters as your daily driver.

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      I agree 100%. Its just something fun to play around on but need more rail for proper carving.

  • @libertyblack715
    @libertyblack715 8 месяцев назад +1

    I was learning in the sixties when boards went from 8-9 foot monsters down to 5-6 foot twin fins Only recently I've been seeing some of the groundswellbreaking short board designs going into snall and big wave boards. Frankly, I think they're on to something. Talent AND design are needed for the very best.

  • @christhew4129
    @christhew4129 8 месяцев назад +1

    Amazing the photography you do while also ripping too! Always admired you work of the Santa Cruz vibe and working with all the core lords 🤘🏽🌊

  • @jessicawheelahan
    @jessicawheelahan 8 месяцев назад

    I learned to surf on a 5’9” single fin, Dewey Weber Pigi in the late 80’s. It’s awesome to see the that it’s still alive! My experience with that type of board has been instrumental in my ability to learn and teach wing foiling. Rock on!! Jessica’s husband -Lu

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      Learned on a 5'9"? I believe learning on a longboard or something huge is crucial to cultivate good style and technique. If you surf with good style you are the exception. ruclips.net/video/R_8xHaa-wFE/видео.html

  • @ReplayActionSports
    @ReplayActionSports 8 месяцев назад +2

    We somehow got hold of a 5’5 thruster squash PIG (neon orange) concave round nose… brought from California to Maui and it was INSANE hard to describe the functionality and speed it would generate. Unfortunately, it was stolen never to be seen again, but the ride feel and depression of that board will never leave us…⚡️👌
    Must’ve been 91-ish

    • @ETYSURF
      @ETYSURF 8 месяцев назад

      Get the TOMO EVO I guarantee it will work the same

  • @solnova5201
    @solnova5201 8 месяцев назад +1

    Ageless surfing!! Looks like you were poppin' airs at Soquel. What a stoke!

  • @hbmtr8824
    @hbmtr8824 8 месяцев назад +1

    Ya TR love the stoke and your channel 👊👊👊

  • @christogillard4145
    @christogillard4145 8 месяцев назад +1

    Wicked.. picasco wrote at 86.. takes a long time too learn how too grow young!! 67.. surfer artist 🔥🔥🥰

  • @laowai2000
    @laowai2000 8 месяцев назад +2

    Awesome. Surfing like a grom.

  • @mm2024-7
    @mm2024-7 8 месяцев назад +1

    He makes riding an extremely short board easy. Wish I could do that 😮

  • @captainamerica3531
    @captainamerica3531 8 месяцев назад +1

    Awesome stoke. Gorgeous board.

  • @bryantotten2757
    @bryantotten2757 8 месяцев назад +1

    Good on ya.keep.the positive vibes

  • @mattydestroyer6298
    @mattydestroyer6298 8 месяцев назад +1

    Your killing it TR

  • @gallivantstravels
    @gallivantstravels 8 месяцев назад +5

    I’m 61 years old, 6’3” tall and 100kg naked. 45 years of surfing has taught me everyone should ride whatever floats their boat. Personally, I jumped on a 6’8 at 20 years old and never looked back. I’ve now graduated to a 7’6” mid-length. My advice to beginners would be to stay longer for longer.

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      Agree 100%

    • @rctrix9063
      @rctrix9063 8 месяцев назад

      In the age race you never catch up you just catch less waves. I ride a 7'6, a 9'1, a 6'10 and a 5'10. I'm 77kg 6'1 67 and blind in one eye.
      It's time to put your ego away at 50 and just ride what you prefer.
      Magic surfboards quickly end up in the same place as the others.

    • @RealSkateStories
      @RealSkateStories 8 месяцев назад

      @@rctrix9063 60 years old and catching more waves than ever. Love the 10' log and dozens of other boards down to this 4'8". No limits.

  • @juanchaves2971
    @juanchaves2971 8 месяцев назад +1

    I think there is alot to be said for the boards of the early 1990ś... A 6´2¨ with 6 channels off the tail, rounded squashtail... Tons of drive...I think those boards were so fast and could do anything...

  • @gregwoolley6105
    @gregwoolley6105 8 месяцев назад +1

    I made those boards many years ago. Its like a skateboard on the water. Nobody could believe their eyes.

  • @gwendalfontaine4199
    @gwendalfontaine4199 8 месяцев назад +1

    J’ai shapé une 5’0 qui avais les même caractéristiques et que j’adore aussi , je comprend la démarche dès transmission de force pour les ailerons mais je la gère en ayant des ailerons fixes , plus un volume max entre les pieds et un rocker plat . La planche est souple du pied avant au nez ce qui donne une compression au bottom qui se relâche et propulse la planche en avant ! Joli Shape et bonne recherche vers la planche courte, souple et nerveuse ! Enjoy

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      Ca a l'air incroyable, j'adore glass-ons!

  • @cryptohitlist9324
    @cryptohitlist9324 8 месяцев назад +1

    You're ripping on that Drifter board!

  • @blaiseeltine9516
    @blaiseeltine9516 8 месяцев назад +1

    nice ride.. hada fish back when they got bigs in 2000s. kane gardens lol..KG ftw.

  • @blaiseeltine9516
    @blaiseeltine9516 8 месяцев назад +1

    floating carpet. that thing looks sick

  • @dolphin_dog
    @dolphin_dog 2 месяца назад

    had the same thought process my whole life!

  • @Frontslider
    @Frontslider 8 месяцев назад +1

    Put a hard rail on it that goes 3/4 of the way up the board. That is how I made mine and they were loose and fast.

  • @danab7626
    @danab7626 8 месяцев назад +1

    What is that music “ride on” who is doing it?

  • @diegopendinorodriguez4829
    @diegopendinorodriguez4829 8 месяцев назад +2

    😮

  • @wyliemcmaster4338
    @wyliemcmaster4338 8 месяцев назад +1

    From New Zealand very cool 😎 🏄🏽‍♂️

  • @bonefishboards
    @bonefishboards 8 месяцев назад +2

    It's called a mini-Simmons (mix between a boogie board and a stand-up board with decent volume)

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад +4

      Vernor also shapes Mini Simmons. They have a straight rail whereas this board has a curved rail template.

    • @surfingcavachon
      @surfingcavachon 8 месяцев назад +3

      different boards. And he makes a killer Mini Simmons also

  • @grantota9857
    @grantota9857 8 месяцев назад +1

    Tom curren experimenting with skimboards pretty neat

  • @briancleary4223
    @briancleary4223 8 месяцев назад +1

    That’s impressive surfing

  • @michaelelam9779
    @michaelelam9779 Месяц назад

    Looks so sick 🤙🏼

  • @dimitrisgiannatos9782
    @dimitrisgiannatos9782 8 месяцев назад +1

    Maserati board ? Whow!!!

  • @cielo8842
    @cielo8842 8 месяцев назад +1

    great shape both of you

  • @ugocdf7706
    @ugocdf7706 8 месяцев назад +1

    Alive we ride
    Get in touch my friend

  • @BurninatorTheTrogdor
    @BurninatorTheTrogdor 7 месяцев назад +1

    Hell yeah.

  • @blaiseeltine9516
    @blaiseeltine9516 8 месяцев назад +1

    land locked right now.. miss the salt. thxu

  • @0dbm
    @0dbm 8 месяцев назад +1

    ❤️🤙❤️

  • @seankearney5469
    @seankearney5469 8 месяцев назад +1

    How much do you weigh TR????

  • @dudeleboski2692
    @dudeleboski2692 8 месяцев назад +1

    For me as a 57 year shaper , that board doesn’t have enough length/Volume/Weight to carry throughout all the turns. You DID enjoy it,and that is all that matters…. ‘Nuff said..

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      I agree. Feels like it has some potential once I learn how to ride it though.

  • @Vascosalgueiro
    @Vascosalgueiro 8 месяцев назад +1

    Eu fui com 30 anos ,, podia ir agora com 55 ,, mas agora tá tudo a trabalhar,, nem ski ,surf, motas ,,para sustentar a ex e os filhos,,costa rica demais

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      boa lição para os nossos surfistas mais jovens

  • @adambamf9365
    @adambamf9365 8 месяцев назад +2

    thought i was doing good at 40on my 6'2 lmao this guy

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      You are doing great Adam! Ride Everything!!

  • @CacaoJunajpu
    @CacaoJunajpu 8 месяцев назад

    I'm a 61 year old woman- 5'7, 118 lbs and riding and riding a 5'9 Phantom pretty much everyday. Why does everyone think is such a big deal to be surfing over 50? 😜

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад +1

      Probably because many throw in the towel in their thirties.

  • @thegentleorchestra
    @thegentleorchestra 8 месяцев назад +1

    Rad ❤

  • @DarknessYT2010
    @DarknessYT2010 8 месяцев назад +1

    allways rode sub 5'5 in all size surf sometimes to short is to short

  • @matthewtodd1794
    @matthewtodd1794 8 месяцев назад +1

    I think it may be more about your awesome ability than the board! Just sayin

  • @mrnoserider1
    @mrnoserider1 8 месяцев назад +1

    I’m 50 years old, still riding a 5’4 quad fish…

  • @ThePokersurfer
    @ThePokersurfer 8 месяцев назад +1

    Almost Album Plasmic like ....... 4'8" not enough rail line ....... 5'3 MINIMUM!

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад +1

      It's a different sensation 🍎🍏🍊🍊

  • @bfranco1519
    @bfranco1519 8 месяцев назад

    Unpopular take here but I just feel like shark bait on tiny boards, guess that’s why I like longboards ha!

  • @anthonystratton4941
    @anthonystratton4941 8 месяцев назад +1

    Don't get wet. Put the wheels back on and find a parking lot. That is NOT surfing that's skateboarding.

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      😂

    • @MikeNolan_Councilman
      @MikeNolan_Councilman 8 месяцев назад +1

      I've got a little 4'11" that looks like a mini simmons but with a short board-ish squash tail and quad setup. (You can see the board in my profile pic) The thing goes pretty mental. Enjoyed the vid, thanks for posting.

  • @BajaSurf
    @BajaSurf 8 месяцев назад +1

    looks very unstable...maybe a 4 fin set ... needs more foam for more fun

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад +1

      It feels like if my feet are in the right place its stable. I need to learn how to do it.

  • @christiansurf6732
    @christiansurf6732 8 месяцев назад

    You can ride a 4'8" because you ain't much taller than that

  • @davidanderson8469
    @davidanderson8469 8 месяцев назад

    Too much butt wagging. Surfing's supposed to be fun.

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      You don't like, so be it but I was/am having a blast! 😄🤙

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      ...and look at the first two clips in the video. Variety is the spice of life.

  • @cathalsurfs
    @cathalsurfs 8 месяцев назад

    It's easier to surf a shortboard. Real men, surf logs. I am not biased, I surf a 5'8 DVS fish.

  • @charlieduvall6463
    @charlieduvall6463 8 месяцев назад +1

    You livin the dream .

  • @ugocdf7706
    @ugocdf7706 8 месяцев назад +1

    Tony R : i allready wrote to you ....
    Would like to meet and have a chat
    I am down in samana peninsula

    • @RealSurfStories
      @RealSurfStories  8 месяцев назад

      My email is tonyrobertsphoto@gmail.com I am in Nicaragua now for Pacific surf season.

  • @lawtonloraine4144
    @lawtonloraine4144 8 месяцев назад +2

    No offence it’s not the length of the board it’s speed of wave and ur flexibility agility in ur pop up. I still surf at 66 but I just not as flexible as 5 years ago. But I stll skateboard and drink wine eat chocolate and other fishy things. Get my drift. Great development guys.