Metal Plated Ceramic Rocket Engine (3D Printed)
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- Опубликовано: 30 мар 2021
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3D Models
Modular Vortex Rocket: www.thingiverse.com/thing:481...
Porcelite Resin:tethon3d.com/product/porcelai...
Music
attitude---instrumental-version by wearethegood Artlist
boogie-down-bordeaux by bob-hart Artlist
maculelê---instrumental-version by maitê-inaê Artlist
TheDude by AnthonyVega Artlist
SkatePark by AlonPeretz Artlist
big---instrumental-version by wearethegood Artlist
this-blue-moon---instrumental-version by ian-post Artlist
march-of-toys by anbr Artlist
easy-as-pie by benjamin-esterlis Artlist
TheFunnyNeighbor by AnthonyVega Artlist
Boom by WEARETHEGOOD Artlist
dont-be-stupid by anthony-vega Artlist
maple-leaf-rag-joplin by raphaël-angelini Artlist
gypsy-bill---instrumental-version by ofer-koren Artlist
a-scary-ferris-wheel-ride by ziv-grinberg Artlist
smile-in-advance by hanjo-gabler Artlist
midnight-escape---theremin-pads--bells by ziv-moran Artlist
run by anbr Artlist
breaking-of-glass by iby Artlist
gypsy-bill---instrumental-version by ofer-koren Artlist
OpenHorizons by AnthonyVega Artlist
summertime---instrumental-version by sandy-pierce Artlist
#rocket #engine #3dprinting 
Наука
*Engine explodes*
"So I glued it back together"
*Engine explodes harder*
Sounds like Kerbal engineering to me...
@@kerbodynamicx472 yep
Yes, that is what happened in the video.
Integza, after watchin this I'm gonna recommend some safety glasses. PLEASE! The engine exploded in your face three times at least in this video. Maybe even a face shield.
This! You can't just glue an eye back together.
@@Abandonedmachine he'll probably figure out how to 3d print a fully working eye
Or some blast shielding
This is not the way.
Why does this not have more likes?!
For propane systems there are safety relay valves that close when voltage is turned off. Highly recommended for this setup.
Try adding fuel, igniting it, and then adding oxidizer, to prevent those explosions (hard start). You were right about the accumulations inside the engine and the spark plug, but I think that your mixing also is in play here. What happens when you add oxidizer first and then fuel is you get a stoichiometric mix of fuel and oxidizer in the chamber, which detonates just like any explosive.
Your nickel strips were most likely nickel coated. It is very common for nickel strips to not actually be nickel if you get them from a an unknown vendor.
This is exactly what I was thinking, it's a big problem in making DIY battery packs for Esk8, you could probably check if it's coated using a magnet. P.S. love your stuff
My thoughts as well, nickel plated steel is usually sold as nickel strips. Scratch the surface and check if they rust in salt water.
I've had good results with nickel strips from nkon.nl for battery builds.
I was also thinking his white vinegar might not have been concentrated enough and the excess water caused oxidization which if I remember right makes it brown
I thought the same thing, nickel coated steel, hense the rust
It's because he used salt as the electrolyte.
*Engine explodes
Glues it back together
Engine: I SAID NO!
*Explodes again, but louder
xD
He needs to stop using glue.
@@Dplusithicus nah, he just needs safety glasses ;)
explosion is an art! 🎨
He made a bomb
@@mrdumbfellow927 safety Glases make you invincible
Since you are using ceramics, it might be interesting to use one of the glazes that are converted to metallic coatings in the kiln. Normally you keep them away from oxygen by placing the hot ceramic in hay or grass so that the smoke displaces the oxygen.
I know this is a year old, but putting an electric valve to cut off the gases in case of an emergency should be on your list of todos. Love your videos!
You need to invest in some metal working tools take these projects to next level. Your sister is a legend for helping your crazy ass!
In that case project can't be replicated by other low key makers. But yeah he still uses super expensive resin to print. So idk, maby...
Lost PLA Casting is a good example how to cheaply make metal parts with 3D Printing.
@@Toxicity1987 it is much easier to 3d print WAX and then use that. lost PLA is exceedingly difficult.
@@alfredassimply5865 He has an electric kiln, we're beyond hobbyist.
@@5in1killa Not really... But yeah.
you are one of those rare youtubers that actually put effort into your videos and care for your fanbase
Why not use header paint which is basically alumina silicate Paint, refractory paint up to 2200° c... i don't think it's porous
@@NwoDispatcher I'm guessing you didn't mean to reply to this comment
These videos are amazing. I hope your charm and hilarious editing never dwindles.
I just found this channel and oh my God, easily one of my favorites.
13:20 omg I'm very happy you got those valves. Especially after the test earlier in the video where the fire went back into the tube. I was thinking... what happens when that fire goes all the way to the tank... Yea please don't die! Very happy you have those protection valves now!
“I would eat a tomato for her” 🤣 he is really one of the most undervalued guys on this platform
I would eat literally anything for her
@@honestlydontcareduh885 Even wet bean farts?
@@p4inmaker Even a bullet
@@blinded6502 I'd take bullets over wet bean farts any day.
He looks as if he has been eating pink crayons.
The fact he has no safety glasses on while his face is a foot (about 30cm) from the rocket while everything is under high pressure is just..... AHHHHHH
Yeah this is crazy. I'd be wearing a welder's mask with all that accelerant.
He also hasn't put a quick valve on yet, so you notice to turn off the oxygen... The OXYGEN.... It takes him several seconds to turn the knob enough times.
I wouldn't do this without a quarter turn valve on it
@@TravisFabel yah. and he is doing it in the definition of an enclosed area.
Plz Integza, for your safety, do this outside. Plz?
Yeah once the rockets started exploding right in his face I got pretty concerned
Yeah, Integza's lack of safety equipment throughout this series has worried me
I dont know much about these things but I’ve been watching for some time.
Expert mode: merging ion propulsion to assist air flow *deflamation(?)
If you were able to get the ion propulsion and rocket engine to work symbiotically with the ion propulsion assisting in the control of detonation and deflamation.
Love your stuff!
It's such a shame that you're only able to hit the like button once! That was by far the most entertaining 20 mins I've seen on RUclips all year... I'm hooked. Love your work mate.
At this point, I am emotionally invested in this series.
We need a 3D print that is a mold for the engine that should be cement
Covered with carbon fiber or just some normal anti flame material
Integza, you nail the “somewhat mad inventor” vibe more than anyone else on RUclips, never change my dude.
I truly Agree
I come for the unhinged chaos!
have you not seen styropyro
@@Thebigbean114 oh you make a good point there
@@Thebigbean114 but still he hates tomatoes so I'll be backin Integza 100% of the time
Sealing ceramics is a pain in the exhaust pipe. You could try oven glue / cement on a soft metal seal disc. Spring load your screws. Ceramics temperature expansion is large. You could also redesign for self-sealing contact surfaces with oven glue or cement. Much better to ignite the fuel first and then add the oxygen. Then ramp up the feed pressure of both. Basically like every welder ignites their gas torch and avoids flare-ups and blow-outs.
Your idea is not just good, it's exceptional! Imagine coating those rockets with tungsten, elevating their heat resistance to an incredible 3000 degrees Celsius. Harnessing the power of hydrocarbon fuels could propel this innovation to new heights. Picture crafting your own rocket, fueled by your engines - a venture that is not just amazing but truly inspiring, pushing the boundaries of what's possible in the realm of space exploration. This is my favourite video in your collection.As suggested i think you should use safety goggles everyone cares you bro(except that disgusting tomato lord!🤣🤣).
Make a ramjet engine.
Nice one use the printer Wisely
scramjet!
A ram jet needs speed to work as it rams itself against the air
He'll need to get one of these up to speed first
Ewe nay have a point.
I like how they are more affraid of a wasp than a LITTERALY unstable burning engine that has and will explode
Engineers...
The engine doesn't try to hurt you D;
@@kylechin8706 The engine can only hurt you once. The wasp will sting you repeatedly, and if they REALLY don't like you, they mark you with pheromones that make OTHER wasps hate you. Does a malfunctioning rocket engine do that? I don't think so!
Having been chased down by an entire ground nest of them before, and having a science experiment that blew up in my bare hands and froze my fingers to the point of being able to *clink* them together like glass cups, and dealing with that pain for 2 weeks after thawing, I'd gladly risk freezing my digits over wasps. My new hypothesis is that nothing is worse than wasps, no I WILL not be testing that theory, instead I'm stuffing it into this lockbox and chucking it into space.
He's not a they. He's a he. As in male. Like all males.
You are amazing to watch. Usually you don't get to see failures in videos like this as a lesson but you are so transparent with errors, and constantly adjusting the model until it gets right :) Thank you for that. Maybe you should try do a drone powered by either powerful magnets or solar charged:)
Next week on Integza: "How I Ended Up In The Hospital (3D Printed)"
How to remove ceramic and automotive glue from your eyes using only simple household Pliers (eyesight required to watch)
The lack of safety glasses during the hot fire tests blows my mind.
yea he needs full helmet
Ceramic shards ending RUclipsr’s eyesight. Let’s watch!
@@nemanja6037 full helmet is a good place for wasps to hang out... Bad idea
You should make a 3d printer that is room sized and uses expanding foam as its extrusion. Or maybe I should...someone should
Oh hey you're the guy that made the man scape meat ball maker
Oh no
Yes
Maybe using a modified hangprinter?
he should 3D print a 3D printer
You should try making a vacuum chamber large enough for the printer. that way you can make the porcelite more dense. But make sure too high of a vacuum won't break capacitors.
A vacuum strengthened ceramic will withstand a higher tensile wrap to further strengthen a ceramic part against fracture.
Use the lost wax method of centrifugal casting to encase the part in nickel. All your items can be picked up at a jewelry making supply store along with books on mold design.
Perhaps you can even adjust your 3D printed design to allow the metal to flow through areas where you want the nickel to act like rebar function in concrete.
After casting, I would take sclices through the casting to be sure the metal flowed evenly and completely through all sections.
Channels that flow to the bottom up with vacuum assist and enough metal to equalize pressure above the part will reduce the risk of air bubble voids im the melt.
Chemist here!
try to buy nickel carbonate (NiCO3), should be easy enough. And THAN convert it to nickel acetate by just letting the NiCO3 react with AcOH. Did it once and it worked perfectly. Just take care about the bubbling of CO2, so stirring and slow addition is necessary.
After that, just boil the water and acetic acid out. 120-130 °C should work. Use an oil bath if you can. Direct heat from a heat plate could cause problems :D
good luck!
EDIT: please be careful with the nickel ions since they are poisonous and wear safety goggles :D
EDIT 2: Use 100 % AcOH, or at least 25 % (should be easier to obtain). Or, I could send my leftovers to you :D
Like so he can see
I can just see the courier service. Anything to declare in this package...
UGh. hmm.. it's going to be used as a rocket propellant? :-)
Denied!
mr. chemist sir.... this isnt necessarily a chem question but maybe you'd have some insight... he was talking about using graphite paint to make the ceramic surface conductive... could graphite be mixed into the slip and then sintered onto the surface? or is the fact that graphite itself is used for things like crucibles an indication that there is no way that makes sense?
or even, now that i think of it... instead of painting the ceramic... finding out what the solvent was for the silver paint, getting more and diluting it, and dipping the parts in the diluted paint to slowly build up an even coverage that covers parts that paint wont reach
Isn’t the brown color from the reduction of the nickel ions?
Please wear PPE especially goggles your sister was wearing goggles. when printing parts an O-ring grove (RTJ ) and use a high temp o-ring. Mating flat surfaces together is hard - in pressure valves flat surfaces are machined and lapped to a mirror finish. if you are going to use flat surfaces and liquid gasket try using a spiral serrated / phonographic surface, or pick up a sheet of gasket material, its fairly inexpensively and easy to use.
He's nuts not to be wearing goggles... Even a tiny piece of shrapnel can damage the cornea....
@@shaun6828 in other videos he has wears goggles. I have worked in machine shops flying shrapnel is not fun.
6:49 You dont have to add salt to acids. They are naturally electrically conductive unlike distilled water
Get a small lathe for the hot stuff and print the cold stuff. Use a spray can of Copper brake spray. Coat part with this spray and copper will adhere best to the copperbase.
Something that could help you not burn a hole in your table could be adding something like a quarter turn valve. You start with it open, and if something happens, you can close it immediately instead of turning the tank valve for 15 minutes
Definitely will help
I agree 👍
How about fuel lines that don't melt...
@@Dr.Spatula that too...
Agre
Seeing the rocket run with zero leaks was the most satisfying moment I’ve ever seen on this channel
17:18 it’s called a Hard Start. You need to introduce the fuel first, start the spark plug then slowly introduce the oxidiser.
Try using all-thread rod instead of screws to hold the end caps on. Like nut/washer/endcap flange/body flange/washer/nut/rod continues/nut/washer/body/end/washer/nut. I hope that makes sense.
Use a spring to return your rocket to its starting positon! Then you can put a ruler on the side of your rail and measure how far back the rocket gets using the camera. Use the spring equation and you'll be able to actually measure generated thrust!
You could of course just buy a force gauge (not really expensive) and then just hang the device on the rocket engine. maybe you still need a pulley system, but why simple when it can be complex.
@@albusdumbledore271 The word you're looking for is, "complex," not, "difficult." It would be quite easy to do what the op is suggesting. Tedious? Maybe. Difficult? Not really.
Yes, this may seem impractical to you, but what makes you think that Integza is practical? The madlad literally stripped a linear slider off of his 3D printer because he couldn't wait a week for it to come in the mail! Lol
In any case, using the spring would also allow Integza to introduce Hooke's law to his viewers, so that's a plus.
P.s. I mean no disrespect by the way. I just feel like you were shutting down the op's idea without really considering what this idea would mean for Integza's content.
A bathroom scale fixed on it's side and a pole to push against it should give a close estimate of what type of force it will give off.
@@tremail564 You can also put the scale on the floor and have the engine thrusting upward. You'd have to measure the weight of the engine and subtract that from the scale's readings in order to get the thrust.
P.s. Integza's done this before, I believe.
Grammar Police yeah you can pretty much do this with a basic understanding of physics and a little bit of calculus.
Please up vote this so he sees it, I’m always too late to comment so even though I’ve suggested it a few times I doubt he’s seen it.
Just dip in weak sodium silicate solution and set with co2, rinse with water to remove the sodium carbonate, dry part and repeat a few times. It will fill the matrix with silicon dioxide until by definition it is non-porous.
Then resister to combine into solid ceramic.
I just came here to say that too! Up you go!
Funny.. i added a comment saying the same thing before I read this one.. it should also strengthen the parts since it is already used as a high temperature adhesive.
problem I see with this is you end up with either aerogel formation which has a much lower thermal survivability than people realize as it collapses, if you use the water and dry method you get silica gel which any water causes tiny fissures and liquid water outright causes it to split and explode like some ice cubes will when dropped in water, but for a very different reason. To get the effect he needs it needs to be held into a mold and fired to bring the SiO2 to full density, before being allowed to expand freely,
for a higher temp than both of these, I would suggest sodium alumina as it will collapse if done correctly into a solid transparent aluminum ie sapphire glass, with considerably higher melting temps, so alumina aerogel will last in higher temps too if you want a good insulator to keep the heat in, tougher exterior to keep leakage from occurring and all that jaz, but honestly I would love to see him cat up all the parts and use spin friction welding with titanium wire on a dremel on sheets cut to shape and make it out of solid titanium, as he would be on course for making rockets he could launch into space and have the first tomato free satellite network ;)
*there are a couple ways I have theorized to desalinate the sodium half of the silicate and alumina compounds with, with out an acid that actively pulls it free from the product leaving a pure substance against the surface, and then using laser tech to densify it, in layers, against the surface of an expanding conductive coated shape like say a round bottom flask grown around a flask shaped blown up balloon coated in graphite conductive paint to make it an electrode, that can be collapsed afterwards and withdrawn from the vessel, but it has not been tested yet.
@@ThomasAndersonbsf I don’t have time to debate you, but it’s obvious from so many claims there you have a lax understanding at best how any of that works.
@@ThomasAndersonbsf aerogel does use those elements but the method is incorrect for forming it. Try watching nile red's video on aerogel and you will get a better understanding on it.
I love the parts when integza does his impression of himself
Maybe you could build a thrust test stand like Tom Stanton does with his compressed air engines to see how much thrust they make
I am no longer allowed to repeat your projects in my home. As a 15 year old boy I guess I’m not supposed to make rocket engines in my bedroom
Edit: r/wooosh to those of you who thought I was serious. And to those of you who recommend the garage, it’s a good idea but I don’t have one. I am actually working on a turbojet engine however and it’s gonna be like three feet long and the rest of the dimensions scaled to fit in our backyard. Our home was destroyed by a tornado like 8 months ago so now our back yard has like nothing in it so I’m gonna test there. And yes I am 15.
Yeah, I guess this is true. Child shall not have the technology, they will not allow it.
Dude why you try that in bedroom?
Just switch to the garage like I did then almost burn that down and explain the smoke to your parents by saying”it was an experimental fuse”
@@unicornwarrior3.093 ive had a very similar situation to that haha.
you know how the saying goes, don't try this at home, go to a friends home.
Hey Integza! I had an idea as to why your nickel strips caused that brown solution. Usually, those nickel strips are sold for homemade battery packs and it is unfortunately common for strips to be advertised as 99% nickel but are actually nickel-plated steel. hope this helps!
Which is the brown color, iron ions are brown and poopy looking
It's because he added salt, he basically made chlorine.
@@Nothing_._Here no chlorine would be yellowish and the amount he added wouldn't be enough to make it that brown.
@@turk639 It's not just chlorine. There's also caustic soda. You really should read up on electrolysis of brine.
@@Nothing_._Here chloro-alki cell for making sodium hydroxide and hydrochloric acid, all part of that electrocatalytic process LOL (or just use plain salt no water and heat till it melts to make sodium metal using that process!)
A pretty good idea: you could cool the engine by taking the outlet of the fire extinguisher and get it through a copper coiled tobe around the engine ..
What username
I like the idea of electro plating.
I feel like most of your parts are fairly sturdy.
Have you ever tried to just reinforce the rocket parts?
Since the top keeps blowing out and the sides.
Could you build a dual chamber zone that forces the leaks to the rear?
Also ceramic is very brittle, it does great for heat.
But its still ceramic and the forces exerted on those parts have to be insane.
So maybe just bulk it up a a bit?
Even if its oversized and underperforms, its 3d printed.
why did you structure this comment like a poem bruh
Really need a deadman's switch setup on your lines.
Or just any kind of emergency shut off
It is called a solenoid...
Someone has probably already told you that copper plate is the foundation for a lot of metal plating including nickel. It looks like your copper was not covering the parts very completely though. Also the silver didn't look thick enough. I suggest more than one dip in the slip to build that up, then sinter it, then thick copper followed by thick nickel.
Remember to polish the silver as much as possible, same for the copper to get better adhesion of subsequent layers.
Also, of course you should look at what parts of the printed components physically blew open and make them a bit thicker.
Anyway, I hope this is as much fun for you to do as it is for us to watch!
Joel , just to help out on safety w/ your jet experiments ( or anything flammable) so you dont catch you attic / house or rafters on fire , they have fire proof drywall covering , so you can build a dry wall box 3 sides on a table, (with cover top too) and coat the inside with it , its in in 5 gallon buckets forlike $150 . so you can have a 6-8 ft long x 4 ft experiment chamber, ( also have 1 side plexiglass sliding access door ), it will be fire resistant after you coat the entire inside , then you are safe.
As someone who is was a plating tech, you need to plate it with nickle to get any metal to bond really good.. start with nickle and add copper, from there you can plate saver and gold and have a secure bond on an atomic level... js..
3D print a 2-stroke engine!!
Come on Integza.. We NEEEDDDD TO SEE YOU DO THISS!!!!
YESSS
This will be a challenge on the god level scale lol 2-stokes make huge compression. That said it would be a huuuuugggeeee achievement if he makes it happen 🤩. GOOOOO INTEGZA
I was thinking I was the only one who wants him to make it, but well, I was wrong :)
I Am going to Post this idea till the day he makes it!!
Exploding ceramic bits. Close proximity. No PPE. Exposed wood in workplace. Children, don't do what this man does. But like Starship launches, I come here for the booms.
This should be pinned.
We men ask for your man card back, please join the scared females and children where you belong.... we men thrive on danger, and not being under our mommies protective skirt(besides it smells)......
You been called out as a puppy... puppy
Up until now, not even flashback arrestors! That's the kind of fuckup you make once.
@@sabaistiantrebor9417 A man also stays alive to protect his family, and doesn’t take unnecessary risks that could be avoided with some common sense. Idk what kind of men you’ve been around...
@@sabaistiantrebor9417 apparently you have never driven a coworker to the hospital and then called his wife. Safety glasses are inexpensive
You need a cnc mill to make strong metal parts that seal perfectly and you might want to consider purging your engines with an inert gas like argon before you apply any fuel.
This is a great video, you are hilarious! Katrina looks like she's having fun! The rockets deciding to disassemble themselves had me laughing too. Keep up your awesome work!!
Do a CO2 laser CNC machine.
Tomatoes are disgusting!
YES. i want to build one myself as well
Congratulation! You won a 3D printer! To receive it send me your info (name, address, zip code, phone number) to integza@gmail.com.
@@integza Thank you so much for your contribution to the community and the amazing videos you produce. I’ve sent an email
"The engine moved."
I don't know if it 'moved' or just 'exploded in a direction'.
Eh, same thing.
@@absalomdraconis oh come one... that was funny!
your videos are awesome, ive been binging them all
Electeoplating that bonds is usually done in a vacuum chamber by higher voltage on the part and metal u wish to plate with. The vacuum keeps oxidation down and allows the metal to ionized and vaporize, which the particles are then attracted to the opposite charge, ur part, and deposits on the surface. This technique binds the plating...electrolysis just creates micro Crystal's by the electrode rather than growing on if because the solution is a huge steric hindrance. In vacuum there is no hindrance so the lions will bond to the part rather than growing microcrystalline pieces beside the part like in electrolysis
You should try casting the parts in metal using lost PLA casting using parts printed from your 3D printers. It's a new skill you can learn and explore that would make an interesting series to watch you learn the process.
This right here x 2! ^^^
He already has the 3d printer & the kiln. Now he just has to learn casting, which is shouldn't be a steeper learning curve than what he is currently trying.
He's trying to 3d print an engine, not cast one.
@@ELYESSS He would be 3d printing... the casting! :)
But yeah, I get it. Though I wonder what the physics 1st principles say about chamber pressure vs high-temperature material integrity of anything coming out from a 3d printer nozzle. Even with coatings.
I'd love to be proven wrong though!
I think you should start developing a DIY metal 3D Printer and then use that to print a rocket engine. Or a beehive :D
As I wrote in the last video, aluminium casting (sand casting with a 3d printed master, or lost PLA in plaster of Paris) could be a great and relatively easy way to make complex metal parts at home ;)
@@Penofhell I’ve wanted to sand cast aluminum parts for years now, thank god I saw your comment and reminded me. I need to go buy the materials to build the wooden boxes and sand and get other materials to build the furnace thing and make a couple crucibles! Thank you for reminding me just in time !
@@Penofhell thought sure you could use powdered cat litter (the super cheap kind that is bentonite clay mostly) and really fine grained sand to make "green" sand for lost wax casting and then just heat up the thing a bit more to get PLA to burn completely away? Plaster of paris will dehydrate at 350 degrees I thought becoming brittle and powdery again? (might be wrong on the exact temp, just remember that heating to drive off the water's OH that causes it to harden allows it to be reused all over again, and aluminum has a melting temp of 660º) but the bentonite and sand should handle much higher temps than that 660 of the aluminum so it can be over heated to make sure it flows and retains a lot of its heat, (heating the mold to nearly the temp of the molten aluminum seems like a good way to ensure no blocking happens along with avoiding easy to fracture points from some areas being more annealed while others are more crystaline in nature, but aluminum is much to low of a temp for his engine,
I would suggest getting a pepakura making program and import that model for the 3D printer, so it can turn it into a tuck and fold 3D object then he can make it out of stainless sheet or maybe titanium if he can get a cheap source of scrap titanium sheet metal (they do heat tests and such on batches of titanium sheet so should be able to get the off cuts they used for this, from someone who worked there and grabbed it to sell it on ebay or something like I did with .020" thick sheeting, and he sent me a sample that was like .125") if using titanium then I can say it is not that hard to use a router attachment for a dremel, and chuck up 3mm or 1/8th inch thick titanium rod that you then drop down on the seams while spinning about 15,000 to 18,000RPMs to do friction spin welding though it does take some practice, even if you are used to normal stick welding or tig welding, but the welds are a bit better than even tig based ones, and you won't need to oven temper it when done. :)
Rockwool insulation is amazingly fire proof.
Also, might be a good idea to buy polycarbonate sheets for blast protection.
At least the rockets are small enough to limit blast radius.
A couple of faceshield lenses in close proximity mighr also work as an affordable containment.
Potential explanations for the sewer water: either the nickel oxidized to nickel oxide that floated in solution, which is very possible because vinegar is a strong rust promoting agent. Also, if you used tap water, the free metal ions could have reacted with the nickel and/or vinegar together to make gross insoluble metal salts or even hydroxides. Least likely, if you used table salt it contains iodine salts that could react with with the nickel metal in the acidic solution? I'm not that high level of chemist but that may pose a problem
If you want to make nickel electrolyte, it would be best to dissolve nickel oxide in a solution of strong, diluted nitric acid made with distilled or even de-ionized acid, and then filtering it
Or just buy some nickel chloride and dissolve it in distilled water, then use the nickel strip as anode(s). Recommended you use two on either side to get a more even plating.
Video idea: wear safety goggles, my dude. We care about you, and so should you ;)
I agree man I love your vids I don't want u to lose ur eyes or lose ur hearing.
Lol. He doesn't listen to anyone lol
@@emersonsims9503 fr
He wear gogggles
He needs eye and ear protection.
Homie said, "I say that word slowly, because I have an accent." Instant like, haha!
i could still hear the N word LOL
I love the second time it burst after glued together
If the pores are small enough, a molten nickel might bleed into the ceramic by capillary action.
Copper coated coolant lines bordering the metal should help with thermal expansion issues by pulling away heat fast enough.
If the metal expands faster than the ceramic, it can cause something similar to delamination.
Inconel has the lowest thermal expansion for a metal and is often used as fasteners for rockets.
With that in mind, that could be why your assembly leaked because your bolts thermally expanded and if they were inconel bolts, they would have maintained dimensional stability.
You may still need thermal regulation around the fasteners but maintaining similar coefficients of thermal expansion becomes simpler.
INGETZGA! PLEASE! ONE MORE! Print the ceramic peices, glue them together with glaze or wire tie them together with copper or what ever you need to do, but then dip the whole thing multiple times into a proper graphite paint/ink! Then elctroplate as long as possible to get as thick as possible of a coating to make it essentially a completely encased single peice of copper with a ceramic core. @Robbertmurraysmith is always down for a fun project!
Could also try dipping it in molten copper (if he has the possibilities for that)
Or use spray welding
@@FzudemB molten copper is hard to make/sustain with out a decent homemade smelter and alot of room and lots of fuel, and its unlikely the fragile ceramic parts could handle the extreme temperature change across the part as it was dipped
He could also first glue the parts together with slip, plug any holes in the part and then cover several times with slip and put in the furnace in between. That would create several ceramic external layers that are entirely continuous, while leaving the inner dimensions unchanged (could also coat the inside if dimensions don't matter too much). Then electroplate the whole thing.
i also really think he should try the glaze, i bet he is afraid because it is glass, but once it is baked onto the ceramic it will never again come off. even if he shocks it with cold water, when it is hot ,it will only make a spiderweb of cracks in the surface but stay on the ceramic. no sharp edges, it's done in ceramic arts because it looks really cool. Also he can use glaze like a glue and bake the three parts together. He just needs some tungsten wire to keep them in position while baking them.
metalplating with copper has no use in this case, because copper will grow in grainy little structures, when you electroplate, it will not become as tough as a copperplate no matter how thick. does anybody know how i can get into his discord? i have some ideas that might help him...
The brown colour is probably due to NaCl you added.....the Cl makes the brown colour.....
yes! I'm pretty sure this is it. I tried water electrolisys a few times and when you add salt it does turn brown, but it didn't work without an electrolyte (possibly to little current) so I'm not 100% sure.
its becouse the nickelstrips is made out of iron and only has a nickel plating. u need nickel rods made out of 100% nickel. the brownines comes from the iron in the nickel strips corroding whit the salt. Dont use nickel strips they aint nickel basicly.
I use this exact electrolyte a lot, my guess is the nickel strip is just nickel plated steel. If you can't get pure nickel anodes, welding rods for cast iron are often a good alternative.
Hey Integza,
nice video even when i see it just right now.
I also have an advice for you. For sealing such ceramic products also between 2 parts you might use „Holts Firegum“. It’s normal purpose is fixing car mufflers. I often use it for sealing in between not moving hot parts.
By the way, thanks for your entertaining and interesting videos!
Greetings from Germany!
What you need is a spiral core, similar to wine bottle opener. This core needs to be at the center of your container protruding out of your combustion chamber. This way it will create a perfect wortex inside the chamber and protect your inner walls. In adition to protection of your combustion chamber the spiral rod/core that has its tip outside the chamber will make sure that the output combustion tapers to a cone like vortex shape. Research vortex mechanics discussed at USP (University Of Science And Philosophy). Cheers looking forward to see what you make.
How lucky I am that you came up in my algorithm, I don't know why you hadn't before. All your vids have been fantastic!
I love that when you present the fire extinguisher the pin is already pulled.
With the amount of times these blow up, I think it's time to build a mythbuster's style blast shield out of bulletproof plastic. Future build video: Blast Shield!
between 5 and 10 mm of polycarbonate...
Rocket: lights on fire, leaks everywhere, melt, gets deformed and screams in agony
Integza: yeeeah
Careful using CO2 extinguisher in A: Confined spaces with little to no ventilation (cant breathe CO2) B, With Gasses I think a Powder (ABC) Fire extinguisher would work better, Hope it helps
I know that it’s not supposed to do it, but it really is quite dramatic when the entire thing bursts into flames.
Holy shit man. At first I wasn't a big fan of yours, but your quality has risen so much, so quickly, you're one of my favorites. Your ingenuity is unmatched and your stubbornness might actually lead to a scientific breakthrough with these 3d printed engines.
There fairly extensive set of Electroless Nickel techniques for plating non-conductive parts. I did a small research on it in my chemistry classes and you only basically need to dip the part in weak silver nitrate solution (with a pinch of nitric acid to repel wasps). Since ceramic is mostly silicon dioxide, it has partial surface negative charge which will attract silver ions that can stick to the surface when you take it out of the solution. Then you put it into the tin chloride solution to reduce the silver to metallic form, and after that you dip it in electroless nickel plating bath (NiSO4 with some weird phosphorus oxidizer in it..). Silver acts as catalytic surface for the nickel deposition reaction so the nickel grows along the whole ceramic part surface more or less evenly. It is low porosity and you can get up to 20um film thickness per hour plating.
Also depending on the nickel solution, you can introduce compressive stress into the film which could help out with poor ceramic in tension performance and the engine blowing up.
On the second thought you would probably need a really thick film for that as the internal compressive stress is on the order of 100MPa...
3:18 the perfect laser beam sound doesn't exis-
Coat the parts FROM THE INSIDE. Your working against yourself coating the outside. You want your coating inside as then the pressure is pushing your coating into the part not off of the part.
It's sensical ! I would also say "add multiple fins on the external sides (like what we put on hot processors) to your design for the parts to cool down better
You not only prevent it from even going into the pores at all but you also have a much lower surface area to cover.
That would only work for the combustion chamber, in the throat and nozzle it would erode away
@@thingymuhbob if it were to erode the entire concept couldn't work, as the body itself would erode
@@polygorg sorry, nvm that. I thought he was using a rubberized sealant.
The lack of eye protection is so scary when you have something that is exploding right next to your eyes... but if you are ok with blindness go for it dude
Kinda feels a little pointless, if a grenade goes off 2 feet from your face, some plastic goggles aint really gonna help a whole heap! lol
@@GrumpyMunkyGameDesign Actually a good pair of protective goggles can stop birdshot pellets from around 5 meters. It might seem like a bit of plastic cant do much but it can take quite a punch.
@@simekon80085 well i mean birdshot is close to small fragment flying. Buckshot is way different so understandable why birdshot than buckshot. No way glass goggles can deflect a slug tho
@@erridkforname yes, no goggles can stop that kind of power.
@@simekon80085 fire all shells in the open birdshot and buckshot does not even try to fire. But slug still fires and still has power lol
by the way milk of magneisia work very well as a antiseeze for high temp parts, we use it in our honeywell APUs
U can use a glow plug insted a spark plug and a water coolent around it, and u also can use m-seal rather gluing it
If your insurance company finds these videos I think you're gonna be asked a few questions...
This is truly the first channel I Don't skip the sponsor time XD
As someone else that has to deal with wasp in their work area. Stick a small, florescent light somewhere in that attic. Not sure why but they get much more docile around florescent lights, still aggressive enough to fight back but they don't go out of their way to pick a fight. The only reason I still have a florescent fixture in the garage, otherwise I would have taken it down since I more prefer the neutral white LED bulbs.
Suggestion: Use a metal tube for the combustion chamber. 3D-ceramic-print the de Laval Nozzle and skirt, and set that inside the metal combustion chamber - its the only spot where the intensity of the heat/flow will erode a metal-nozzle. It will last at least 20 seconds.
His neighbors must love him! Hearing explosions from the attic nearby and seeing flames leaking through the roof tiles from time to time...
your rockets have advanced so much since your first videos!
Try using Ceramicoat Exhaust coating for your sealant. It can be sprayed on, then put in the kiln after it air dries.
i love how it pops and is just a sea of fire.
For the love of God Integza, I would put so much money towards a Kickstarter to raise money for some protective glass to do your experiments behind. I dont want to see you picking shrapnel out of yourself and your poor sister :c
absolutely, a 5--10mm thick piece of polycarbonate, wich mysthbusters also use as blastshields would make a huge difference.
The fire hazard in that attic, omg
I've offered to put $20 towards safety equipment. All I need is a note from Integza saying he'll use the money for safety gear and I'll send it.
Edit: I sent 20 Euro for safety glasses. Hopefully he and his sister will wear them.
@@dsconnectedn3uron324 next thing he buys instead of a 5-10mm piece of polycarbonate: a 50-10 cm thick piece of polycarbonate
Needs a class 2 fire extinguisher & safety equipment. Polycarbonate shields would be great.
19:21 “Oh jesus christ we just frozen our ceiling” is one of the best exclamations ever
we are brothers
@@evanjohnson3115 holy crap your right
With this engine, you should use longer bolts so you are able to attach the pieces altogether. The idea is to use the bolts as supports and to tighten all the parts better.
am a really big fan of u and u kinda inspire me to try these experiments
When your fuel hose makes more thrust than your rocket engine, you know you've got some issues.
@NCR Veteran Ranger whiat nasa is a boy
@@zackcool333_5 eyy CH (crack head) his means integza's
0:46 Integza, please please please buy rubber/latex half-mask with P3 filters. It's literally 20-30$ and will save your lungs. Plus you'll spread awareness to your audience.
Seconding this
Awesome. As far as slip, try silica powder with the ceramic powder. Higher temp
I noticed leaks coming from the bolt holes. I don't see why a copper plated nickel foil and a compression plate across the outside is not used to equally distribute the bolt forces evenly and a compression wrap method is used to apply tensile load to prevent compression failure.
If a wrap is applied under the right load and temperature before cooling and the plate sandwiched while hot. When cooling. The part should resist fracture at vulnerable cooler temperatures if tensioned evenly.
First, you would need to figure out arch designs that will not compromise your inner chamber and coolant channel designs while maximizing tensile compression.
Wherever the part fails, add compressive reinforcement perpendicular to the crack plane.
To save weight, develop in layers that integrate a tension wrap where it does the most good.
A thin ribbon and wire combo is strong enough to crush the ceramic but if balanced, should prevent cracks.
Coolant channels along the tensile wrap should help maintain integrity and counter differences in thermal coefficients.
The RUclipsr _Odd Tinkering_ uses electro Nickel plating for his restorations.
Maybe he can tell you his source for the nickel solution
Edit: on his second channel _Odd Experiments_ is a video on how to electro plate with Nickel. Maybe this helps you
Probably also a lot better to use Nickel, because that looked almost like something melted there
I'm telling you Integza, what you need is muffler and tailpipe putty, seals tight and handles high temperatures!
You should try submerging the parts in the ceramic slip and then putting the whole thing in a vacuum chamber. Once you release the vacuum, the slip would impregnate the parts and would provide a better fill which should solve the porosity problem. Might even be able to skip the metal plating.
If the cart has a spring then you could measure the thrust. If you add an elbow and run the hose to the side and held up about a meter away it wouldn't resist the thrust.