This simple how-to assembly demonstration may be a little simplistic for the more experienced guys out there but I really appreciate this style. I seem to learn something valuable from every one of your vids. Thanks Walt!
Im not 100% sure but I think they are actually listening. My cilinder was in fantastic shape, casting and machining was very nice. But the crankcase wasnt a pleasure to look at and to put together. Now they put some smhoo on their parts to prevent corrosion I belive. At least they are in great shape. I ordered mine and received it yesterday. Took me 5 hours to put together thanks to your videos. I had all OEM parts you recommended except the decompression valve and crank bearings. The bearings and seals seemed fine to me. I just hope that when they fail, they wont ruin my crank and case. I haven ran it yet, will do turning weekend since there are few things that I want to tweak and clean up. Right now it would start and probably work without a massive failure. Few parts were missing... Heatshield and I belive theres a spacer between muffler and cylinder. They didnt go together easily.... We'll see.. my first kitsaw but Ive built and destroyed quite many saws for learning purpouses.
You have convinced me to get one of these kits i have a small saw for cutting up but would like a bigver saw to lay them down and plus i like building things would rather have a saw i put together then a saw thats already together. Im still rebuilding this old poulan as wall art hoping seals are still good.
Now I Wana build one. You make it look easy. But then again this is what you have been doing for a while. looks like it will be a cool little saw. Can't wait for for part 2.
well i decited to drop the ball on one of these MS 036 saws over the husky 372.. as it seams they are a tad bit more complex, and i kinda want one of the MS660's in the future to use for something..
cool i have 034 super and this is very much the same,no pin on brake band,just hooks in there,no issues,would love to get one just for fun build ,how much are they,?
Just started putting mine together today thats funny now i will no if i did it right haha missing same parts barb for crank case had to make seams ok so far my ms660 works great so i just wanted one of these.
thought. small squish, high humidity and cool temps make saws easy to flood because the gas will compress out and has no place to go creating an hydraulic lock situation. my ms 250 will do this in a heartbeat.
the stihl 044 ms440 kit would be cool to watch you do. since its such a popular saw in the 70cc range,, be a good saw to put up against a 372.. the 036 044 066/ ms660 ms441/440 ms361 are a great series of saws. ran a 044. ran the 038 same with a 029 never had problems.
Have to understand these aren't actual Stihl's, and with a few exceptions these parts aren't OEM quality either... These are replica's made in China. With these "kits" at times you do have to build work arounds to issues or substitute in actual OEM parts. It would be fun to build all these , its a time thing for me..:) Sticking to the 036/660 Farmertec's as I can hardly use all the ones I have now!
its all in the fun like a puzzle right. minus the qualtiy factors and such atleast youre getting some insight on how stihls operate and come apart as i know you and spike are husky guys and in the comments always see people asking about stihl saws.
its not like your experimenting on a 1500 dollar saw to figure it out. its a couple hundred bucks compared to 1000 retail for a ms440. but great videos keep em coming really enjoy what you and spike do helps jo shmos like me out
When are you going to build the ms 440. Knowing your love of the 372 I figured you would jump all over the 440. I am going to build the 440 and 360, as soon as funds come available. I figure I have seen just about everything these kit saws can throw at me but I will try to build those a little better than I did the 660 with a few more tests during their construction. I will probably put the cases together with the hot/cold method, as I did the 660 and will use Dirko on the base gasket and 1184 on the case gasket, boot and oil and fuel grommets.
I have those shop tools to pull the cranks for all the Husqvarna's, it would be pretty simple to copy them with the Stihl threads. .but not every one has access to them. Every one has access to harbor freight though. So I use as low a common denominator stuff any one can get. Its a theme. I use the press for a pile of other things as well. A very handy tool to have if you work on stuff. And I can use that technic on every saw from any brand. Regardless of threads.
Just tack a nut on a piece of allthread and you have a shaft puller. Most guys have a welder or access to a buddy with one. It's a lot cheaper option if a new tinkerer wants to build a saw. I ordered 2 or 3 extra nuts of each size from Huztl just for that purpose.
Why not? Sounds like a clever plan.! I've got a whole set of " OEM Shop tool" pullers for the Husqvarna's along with a couple of "home engineered" ones as well for the old Jonsereds I've restored & built. For video's I try to use a "lowest common denominator'" approach, something that works on more applications than just whats in the video. A shop skills type mentality, so Use the press for almost everything else. So not really driven to keep making more pullers. One thing I had done for the PTO side was make a puller from a clutch & sleeves along with washer to allow more travel. (sleeve to put the pressure on the inside race, washers added as the thing pulls through) An old Jonsered. Many ways to skin a cat. Pullers as a concept have been around for ever. But if I'm only doing one...why not just use the press? Warm the receiving side and sometimes you can almost push it in by hand on some. I guess the bottom line for me is some make a big issue of one tactic vs. another, and will rationalize one way vs. another, but if a strategy works, why go through the effort to build a tool if I don't need one? I build some because the tool itself was interesting & or the process makes for an interesting discussion or video..like the seal pushers. And a few years back when I was over analyzing the cranks I would build support blocks to take any twisting stress out of the equation (Have a bunch of them too collecting dust!).....but after a few hundred, and many years this whole thing get put in prospective. I bought or built pullers on the saws I do a lot of, I'll use a press on the ones & twos until I see a reason to build a puller....a possible reason is making one is a good video and folks are interested & want a video ... the other is to highlight how much I dislike the nylon caged bearings by making heat an issue, then using the building or using of a puller a way to highlight the heat thing....but as I showed on the last 660, it doesn't really need heat either truth be told....:)
Quick question on the case halves for the 036 build. I picked up an old 034 super a while back and got it running, but I found a crack in the magnesium case half on the flywheel side near the ignition coil. Doesn't seem to affect performance but it bugs me! Would a case half for this build be able to fit an 034 super? I have been told the 034 super was the predecessor to the 036 same engine and parts etc. if these parts fit it would be much better than trying to find someone to tig weld the crack! Thanks for showing this parts source!
For the price of these things, why not just get a set of cases from one of the aftermarket on line stores. I wouldn't like to have random halves anyway. Rather have a set that was machined close the same time!
OEM?? Can't read this but might be... www.ebay.com/itm/Gehause-fur-Kurbelwelle-passend-fur-Stihl-034-AV-034AV-MS340-Super-crankcase-/190613258102?hash=item2c616f7f76:g:yf8AAOSwHsRYEbGA
On this build....minute 9:28 is how I pressed the crank through the bearing & seal...not my favorite way but to prove a point. Have a few other video's scattered on the subject too. But yes I guess on the next one I can focus on that. I have a video I will post Friday where I just use a wood stove, a rubber mallet & sockets to do the same thing on a 660 to prove that it can be done too! Just on line there are those who want to make it harder than it really is..
LOL Did one with my gloved hands and a wood stove...:) NEXT video coming out Friday...:) Needed a 190-200 degree differential between the bearings and crank for it to slip through.
you have facebook or some other messenger app? i messaged your business account on facebook. i just started fooling around with this...and im really enjoying hobby modding my saw - it would be great to have someone whos brain i could pick
if you use Stihl Ultra oil, as I do, you need to measure their containers for one gallon of gas. Mine do not contain 2.6 ounces but only 2.25 ounces of gas. I found this out when I switched over to 40:1 on all of my two cycle equipment, today. I did a review of this oil on the stihl website but they refused to print it because it did not meet their submission guidelines. I imagine not because when you cheat the customer - no one in management wants to hear it.
Are the aftermarket oil pumps usually ok for 32" bars? I get oil for a decent price so don't mind keeping things well oiled. Actually I might use a 42" bar on a mill setup and it would be great if an auxiliary oiler was not necessary for that size too.
The ones on the 660's probably are for the 32. They really put out the oil, but I haven't tried a bar that long yet. Plan to, have a 32 and 36 inch bar that will go on one of the 660's this summer.
afleetcommand hmmm... hopefully they show up on their site too. I grabbed one for my ms250 and the quality is decent enough for my shelf dwellers that aren't husky large mount.
Ii use red line assembly lube for everything that I used to put oil on. It is three times slicker than Moly. I cannot saw it is better than oil but I have not had any failures, yet. The only place I use two cycle oil is in the cylinder. I do this so the rings will seat. I think it works great on sprocket bearings
I used to use dedicated assembly lube, found out for the two strokes it doesn't matter, now I generally just use two stroke oil. In the two stroke, I need something that will clear out and not leave a residue or coke. Especially with the "nylon" caged bearings. Assembly oil had its roots in much more complex machines where lubrication might take a while...like my old Cummins Big Cam's and N14's I used to build or air craft applications even automotive. Things like cam bearings. But one cylinder two strokes?? nope . not going to waste the time. I have a zero "bearing" failure rate on the Husqvarna's built for the pro's in the area using that technic. And over 40 years of building dirt bikes.....zero. 15 years building Mercury outboards...zero. Only saw failures I've had in recent memory is with a couple of Chinese top ends were I knew at assembly time the plating was flaked...wanted to make a point by running them anyway...a research project on AM part. Those cylinders still ran, didn't take out the mains. AND had two rod bearings fail with a saw where the bore axis in the cylinder...another Chinese part, was significantly out of alignment. That took out a rod bearings...not the mains I installed. And all the bearing "failures" I have in the video series over the last 4 years were OEM stock saws, mostly Husqvarna's. Most were "first contact" saw for me, or the first saws given to me by those customers. I had never had my hands on them until they came with issues. And after the last few years I seem to be sought out in the area as I'm one of the few who has a reputation where the saws built be me survive. So none of the bearing failures where from bearings I've installed. Zero. You make some reference to that somewhere else. Just so you understand...:)
Where did you find this kit? online? I looked for one of these from Hutzl and could not find them. I am currently rebuilding an 036 and could have used most of the parts you show but ended up ordering them all separate. Thanks I might order one just for a project if I knew how. Keep us updated, looks like a fun build, and if it runs anything like my ported 34 super, that would be a cutter.
You are what I call "an enabler". I think I'm ordering a 660. Just to clarify, you swap for OEM crank bearings and seals, oiler, recoil, tensioner and OEM intake?
On the 660's I do use the OEM rubber/plastic if its a saw I will depend on. I thing the bearings in the kit are ok. Also the pull starts are much better on the later ones so again the one in those kits should be fine. I've used a variety of technics to make the chain adjuster work. Right now my first and favorite technic is to make a shim out of a small nut. Drill the ID to fit over the "gear" end of that small shaft, and then grind or file the thing into a square that slip fits down in the case. Some use a brass or other material tube to shim them. I've found that to work most of the time as well. Have some with both shim ideas.
afleetcommand I ordered some parts prior to their new year celebrations and got it in a week. I just ordered some 660 parts so we'll see how long it takes
Thanks for making this series. It's great to see how a saw goes together. I have an 036 and 066 and they're both great saws. Do you let centrifugal force tighten the clutch or are you going to get to that later? Do you think conditioner would be slipperier than hair spray?
LOL..i don't know. There are many ways to skin a cat. I do rattle the clutch on with an air wrench JUST a little. If you don't...and you test before putting the B&C on, chances are you will watch that little clutch take off across your shop at 12000 rpms! They skoot! Hair spray is what I had within arms reach and it worked..Actually don't really want something that would attack the rubber. Things like penetrating oil often times actually make it harder to push those things in. I tried...and learned the hard way. Never tried conditioner...you might & put it as a build tip maybe?? On your (excellent) channel?
I'll have to make a video titled, "Hairspray or Conditioner, Which is best for installing bushings." Thanks for the compliment on the channel. It means a lot coming from someone with your knowledge.
hi, I think I heard you saw the impulse line fitting was broken off the cylinder and you were going to repair it. was it easy to get out and repair? I ordered a new long block for my 029 and it came in with a broken off impulse line fitting. the fitting is brass and the part that plugs into the impulse line is what is broken off - about the last 3/8's of an inch. I have notified the seller. the long block looks pretty good but I was going to remove it from the piston and check it out internally to remove any burrs from the ports, as well as lubricate the bearings before I installed it in my 029. your thoughts on the impulse line is appreciated. john9
afleetcommand how did you get a new one. mine seems to be pressed in and spread out on the inside. I have considered driving it out with a drift and I could spread out the inside with a center punch. I am awaiting to see what the seller says. I have notified him of the problem.
Short of splitting the cases I would be inclined to pull the cylinder, stuff a rag in the case and first try the punch capturing the piece in the rag, if that fails there always is a drill.
Oh my god, really?? Guess after a couple of years I should expect a bang? Yet that saw still runs fine. And dozens of others done the same way as well And HUNDREDS done by other folks.....Like all generalities, that statement kinda makes some assumptions. Like how much force is actually applied, heat differentials can make a huge difference. But...my pullers allow me to use the inner race to pull against, so I understand the theoretical concerns. With out seals though. But many many cases assemblies are delivered with seals and assume the crank will be pulled with pressure on the outer race even the cases. IF the pressure required isn't too great no harm will come to those bearings. For that matter it takes a chit load of pressure to hurt those typical bearings. And I tried on some of the CHICLONE 660's to create issues by using a press and having things the same temperature.....those saws STILL run fine a few years later. The guys who make a big deal about that are usually trying to either justify something or sell something....the rest who follow along without knowing the details....lol ( One guy from another channel made that his thing..so I made a point of putting cases together with everything from a press cold to with my gloved hands using a wood stove. Needless to say I don't buy generalities. Too much engineer left in this old fart. And too many don't understand the physics of what they preach about. BUT if I were to write a manual.....lowest common denominator...least chance of "eff ups", pull on the inner races )
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
This simple how-to assembly demonstration may be a little simplistic for the more experienced guys out there but I really appreciate this style. I seem to learn something valuable from every one of your vids. Thanks Walt!
Im not 100% sure but I think they are actually listening. My cilinder was in fantastic shape, casting and machining was very nice. But the crankcase wasnt a pleasure to look at and to put together. Now they put some smhoo on their parts to prevent corrosion I belive. At least they are in great shape.
I ordered mine and received it yesterday. Took me 5 hours to put together thanks to your videos. I had all OEM parts you recommended except the decompression valve and crank bearings. The bearings and seals seemed fine to me. I just hope that when they fail, they wont ruin my crank and case.
I haven ran it yet, will do turning weekend since there are few things that I want to tweak and clean up.
Right now it would start and probably work without a massive failure.
Few parts were missing... Heatshield and I belive theres a spacer between muffler and cylinder. They didnt go together easily....
We'll see.. my first kitsaw but Ive built and destroyed quite many saws for learning purpouses.
You have convinced me to get one of these kits i have a small saw for cutting up but would like a bigver saw to lay them down and plus i like building things would rather have a saw i put together then a saw thats already together. Im still rebuilding this old poulan as wall art hoping seals are still good.
Now I Wana build one. You make it look easy. But then again this is what you have been doing for a while. looks like it will be a cool little saw. Can't wait for for part 2.
great video Walt, looking forward to part 2
well i decited to drop the ball on one of these MS 036 saws over the husky 372.. as it seams they are a tad bit more complex, and i kinda want one of the MS660's in the future to use for something..
my 036 runs just fine with a ZAMA carb. For more then 10 years no problems with it.
cool i have 034 super and this is very much the same,no pin on brake band,just hooks in there,no issues,would love to get one just for fun build ,how much are they,?
Just started putting mine together today thats funny now i will no if i did it right haha missing same parts barb for crank case had to make seams ok so far my ms660 works great so i just wanted one of these.
Wish you showed putting the case bolts in.
helpful,were these oil line to bar the really stiff hose, those are fun
thought. small squish, high humidity and cool temps make saws easy to flood because the gas will compress out and has no place to go creating an hydraulic lock situation. my ms 250 will do this in a heartbeat.
the stihl 044 ms440 kit would be cool to watch you do. since its such a popular saw in the 70cc range,, be a good saw to put up against a 372.. the 036 044 066/ ms660 ms441/440 ms361 are a great series of saws. ran a 044. ran the 038 same with a 029 never had problems.
Have to understand these aren't actual Stihl's, and with a few exceptions these parts aren't OEM quality either... These are replica's made in China. With these "kits" at times you do have to build work arounds to issues or substitute in actual OEM parts. It would be fun to build all these , its a time thing for me..:) Sticking to the 036/660 Farmertec's as I can hardly use all the ones I have now!
its all in the fun like a puzzle right. minus the qualtiy factors and such atleast youre getting some insight on how stihls operate and come apart as i know you and spike are husky guys and in the comments always see people asking about stihl saws.
Yes, and I for one have learned a lot from these saws. A great education, not a lot of money...:)
its not like your experimenting on a 1500 dollar saw to figure it out. its a couple hundred bucks compared to 1000 retail for a ms440. but great videos keep em coming really enjoy what you and spike do helps jo shmos like me out
Thank You
love my 361. thanks for the video
Really want to try the ms361 kit, love my big bore 660, but the pound is so weak at the moment. Really good video again as well.
When are you going to build the ms 440. Knowing your love of the 372 I figured you would jump all over the 440. I am going to build the 440 and 360, as soon as funds come available. I figure I have seen just about everything these kit saws can throw at me but I will try to build those a little better than I did the 660 with a few more tests during their construction. I will probably put the cases together with the hot/cold method, as I did the 660 and will use Dirko on the base gasket and 1184 on the case gasket, boot and oil and fuel grommets.
Taking a break from kit saws, going back to my old Jonsereds for a while :)
You can use a shaft puller and pull the shaft through the bearings....eliminates the need for a press.
I have those shop tools to pull the cranks for all the Husqvarna's, it would be pretty simple to copy them with the Stihl threads. .but not every one has access to them. Every one has access to harbor freight though. So I use as low a common denominator stuff any one can get. Its a theme. I use the press for a pile of other things as well. A very handy tool to have if you work on stuff. And I can use that technic on every saw from any brand. Regardless of threads.
Just tack a nut on a piece of allthread and you have a shaft puller. Most guys have a welder or access to a buddy with one. It's a lot cheaper option if a new tinkerer wants to build a saw. I ordered 2 or 3 extra nuts of each size from Huztl just for that purpose.
Why not? Sounds like a clever plan.! I've got a whole set of " OEM Shop tool" pullers for the Husqvarna's along with a couple of "home engineered" ones as well for the old Jonsereds I've restored & built. For video's I try to use a "lowest common denominator'" approach, something that works on more applications than just whats in the video. A shop skills type mentality, so Use the press for almost everything else. So not really driven to keep making more pullers. One thing I had done for the PTO side was make a puller from a clutch & sleeves along with washer to allow more travel. (sleeve to put the pressure on the inside race, washers added as the thing pulls through) An old Jonsered. Many ways to skin a cat. Pullers as a concept have been around for ever. But if I'm only doing one...why not just use the press? Warm the receiving side and sometimes you can almost push it in by hand on some. I guess the bottom line for me is some make a big issue of one tactic vs. another, and will rationalize one way vs. another, but if a strategy works, why go through the effort to build a tool if I don't need one? I build some because the tool itself was interesting & or the process makes for an interesting discussion or video..like the seal pushers. And a few years back when I was over analyzing the cranks I would build support blocks to take any twisting stress out of the equation (Have a bunch of them too collecting dust!).....but after a few hundred, and many years this whole thing get put in prospective. I bought or built pullers on the saws I do a lot of, I'll use a press on the ones & twos until I see a reason to build a puller....a possible reason is making one is a good video and folks are interested & want a video ... the other is to highlight how much I dislike the nylon caged bearings by making heat an issue, then using the building or using of a puller a way to highlight the heat thing....but as I showed on the last 660, it doesn't really need heat either truth be told....:)
Nice vid walt...I'm taking notes and pulling teeth. couldn't help but notice the bar studs..would be better to install before case halves go together?
Why, because you want to put them in when the bar oil tank is open? :)
when its easy... yes hehe
i forget stupid stuff like that all the time... usually I get a saw all together and find a circlip left over....
And why would it be easier with the cases apart & access to the inside?...:)
Quick question on the case halves for the 036 build. I picked up an old 034 super a while back and got it running, but I found a crack in the magnesium case half on the flywheel side near the ignition coil. Doesn't seem to affect performance but it bugs me! Would a case half for this build be able to fit an 034 super? I have been told the 034 super was the predecessor to the 036 same engine and parts etc. if these parts fit it would be much better than trying to find someone to tig weld the crack! Thanks for showing this parts source!
For the price of these things, why not just get a set of cases from one of the aftermarket on line stores. I wouldn't like to have random halves anyway. Rather have a set that was machined close the same time!
OEM?? Can't read this but might be...
www.ebay.com/itm/Gehause-fur-Kurbelwelle-passend-fur-Stihl-034-AV-034AV-MS340-Super-crankcase-/190613258102?hash=item2c616f7f76:g:yf8AAOSwHsRYEbGA
could you do a video of how you press the crank/case/seals together ?
On this build....minute 9:28 is how I pressed the crank through the bearing & seal...not my favorite way but to prove a point. Have a few other video's scattered on the subject too. But yes I guess on the next one I can focus on that. I have a video I will post Friday where I just use a wood stove, a rubber mallet & sockets to do the same thing on a 660 to prove that it can be done too! Just on line there are those who want to make it harder than it really is..
you are a chainsaw hero
WELP...OFF TO BUY A SHOP PRESS !
LOL Did one with my gloved hands and a wood stove...:) NEXT video coming out Friday...:) Needed a 190-200 degree differential between the bearings and crank for it to slip through.
you have facebook or some other messenger app? i messaged your business account on facebook. i just started fooling around with this...and im really enjoying hobby modding my saw - it would be great to have someone whos brain i could pick
im waiting to see this thing run!! lol
if you use Stihl Ultra oil, as I do, you need to measure their containers for one gallon of gas. Mine do not contain 2.6 ounces but only 2.25 ounces of gas. I found this out when I switched over to 40:1 on all of my two cycle equipment, today. I did a review of this oil on the stihl website but they refused to print it because it did not meet their submission guidelines. I imagine not because when you cheat the customer - no one in management wants to hear it.
Thats funny actually. :)
MS660 is on the way. Should I oil the worm gear and clutch bearing during assembly?
yes.. the oil pump on that one was terrible BTW. I put oil in it and worked it for a while but still plan on getting another one..:(
Are the aftermarket oil pumps usually ok for 32" bars? I get oil for a decent price so don't mind keeping things well oiled. Actually I might use a 42" bar on a mill setup and it would be great if an auxiliary oiler was not necessary for that size too.
The ones on the 660's probably are for the 32. They really put out the oil, but I haven't tried a bar that long yet. Plan to, have a 32 and 36 inch bar that will go on one of the 660's this summer.
Does Hutzl give you an assembly book along with an IPL with the kit?
no.
I want to build one of these for a mill saw. Would a 036 be large enough or should I jump to a 660?
Jump to the 660's...:)
Walt, where did you find the listing for the bars? I've only been able to find so far is the 14" for the 025.
I didn't....it showed up in that box..:)
afleetcommand hmmm... hopefully they show up on their site too. I grabbed one for my ms250 and the quality is decent enough for my shelf dwellers that aren't husky large mount.
Ii use red line assembly lube for everything that I used to put oil on. It is three times slicker than Moly. I cannot saw it is better than oil but I have not had any failures, yet. The only place I use two cycle oil is in the cylinder. I do this so the rings will seat. I think it works great on sprocket bearings
I used to use dedicated assembly lube, found out for the two strokes it doesn't matter, now I generally just use two stroke oil. In the two stroke, I need something that will clear out and not leave a residue or coke. Especially with the "nylon" caged bearings. Assembly oil had its roots in much more complex machines where lubrication might take a while...like my old Cummins Big Cam's and N14's I used to build or air craft applications even automotive. Things like cam bearings. But one cylinder two strokes?? nope . not going to waste the time. I have a zero "bearing" failure rate on the Husqvarna's built for the pro's in the area using that technic. And over 40 years of building dirt bikes.....zero. 15 years building Mercury outboards...zero. Only saw failures I've had in recent memory is with a couple of Chinese top ends were I knew at assembly time the plating was flaked...wanted to make a point by running them anyway...a research project on AM part. Those cylinders still ran, didn't take out the mains. AND had two rod bearings fail with a saw where the bore axis in the cylinder...another Chinese part, was significantly out of alignment. That took out a rod bearings...not the mains I installed. And all the bearing "failures" I have in the video series over the last 4 years were OEM stock saws, mostly Husqvarna's. Most were "first contact" saw for me, or the first saws given to me by those customers. I had never had my hands on them until they came with issues. And after the last few years I seem to be sought out in the area as I'm one of the few who has a reputation where the saws built be me survive. So none of the bearing failures where from bearings I've installed. Zero. You make some reference to that somewhere else. Just so you understand...:)
Where did you find this kit? online? I looked for one of these from Hutzl and could not find them. I am currently rebuilding an 036 and could have used most of the parts you show but ended up ordering them all separate. Thanks I might order one just for a project if I knew how. Keep us updated, looks like a fun build, and if it runs anything like my ported 34 super, that would be a cutter.
Hey I finally found the right site, thank you!
You are what I call "an enabler". I think I'm ordering a 660. Just to clarify, you swap for OEM crank bearings and seals, oiler, recoil, tensioner and OEM intake?
On the 660's I do use the OEM rubber/plastic if its a saw I will depend on. I thing the bearings in the kit are ok. Also the pull starts are much better on the later ones so again the one in those kits should be fine. I've used a variety of technics to make the chain adjuster work. Right now my first and favorite technic is to make a shim out of a small nut. Drill the ID to fit over the "gear" end of that small shaft, and then grind or file the thing into a square that slip fits down in the case. Some use a brass or other material tube to shim them. I've found that to work most of the time as well. Have some with both shim ideas.
afleetcommand
I've seen the video with the brass bushing on the adjuster. What is the typical lead time on shipping? I ordered today.
could take a month..some times they surprise you though
afleetcommand I ordered some parts prior to their new year celebrations and got it in a week. I just ordered some 660 parts so we'll see how long it takes
My results on my 660 kit were the same as KimballCody, one week to MD.
Huztl lists these as 036/360/361 kits.
Which are they? What's the difference between the models? 360/361 are strato's correct?
Nevermind. Went back and realized there is actually two different kits. How come you went with the 036/360 over the 361
because everyone else went with the 361
I have a ? does that kit come with allen screws or T27 torx
all T27's
thank you
and have you had any problems with shipping with this company huztl.net?
That was my first box saw from there, but I have ordered parts for the MS660's. They seem to be easy to work with.
Thanks for making this series. It's great to see how a saw goes together. I have an 036 and 066 and they're both great saws.
Do you let centrifugal force tighten the clutch or are you going to get to that later? Do you think conditioner would be slipperier than hair spray?
LOL..i don't know. There are many ways to skin a cat. I do rattle the clutch on with an air wrench JUST a little. If you don't...and you test before putting the B&C on, chances are you will watch that little clutch take off across your shop at 12000 rpms! They skoot! Hair spray is what I had within arms reach and it worked..Actually don't really want something that would attack the rubber. Things like penetrating oil often times actually make it harder to push those things in. I tried...and learned the hard way. Never tried conditioner...you might & put it as a build tip maybe?? On your (excellent) channel?
I'll have to make a video titled, "Hairspray or Conditioner, Which is best for installing bushings." Thanks for the compliment on the channel. It means a lot coming from someone with your knowledge.
hi, I think I heard you saw the impulse line fitting was broken off the cylinder and you were going to repair it. was it easy to get out and repair? I ordered a new long block for my 029 and it came in with a broken off impulse line fitting. the fitting is brass and the part that plugs into the impulse line is what is broken off - about the last 3/8's of an inch. I have notified the seller. the long block looks pretty good but I was going to remove it from the piston and check it out internally to remove any burrs from the ports, as well as lubricate the bearings before I installed it in my 029. your thoughts on the impulse line is appreciated. john9
Actually it was just missing so I don't have to remove a broken one.
afleetcommand how did you get a new one. mine seems to be pressed in and spread out on the inside. I have considered driving it out with a drift and I could spread out the inside with a center punch. I am awaiting to see what the seller says. I have notified him of the problem.
Like I said, the case simply didn't have one installed. You can order one from a stihl dealer, mine is from CCC (Definitive Dave's site)
Short of splitting the cases I would be inclined to pull the cylinder, stuff a rag in the case and first try the punch capturing the piece in the rag, if that fails there always is a drill.
hı ı need 52mm cylinder for dolmar 133
I don't sell parts and really don't have any connections to the Dolmar dealers. Ebay is all I can suggest
You damaged the shit out of the bearings by applying pressure to the crank and outer race for the bottom half.
Oh my god, really?? Guess after a couple of years I should expect a bang? Yet that saw still runs fine. And dozens of others done the same way as well And HUNDREDS done by other folks.....Like all generalities, that statement kinda makes some assumptions. Like how much force is actually applied, heat differentials can make a huge difference. But...my pullers allow me to use the inner race to pull against, so I understand the theoretical concerns. With out seals though. But many many cases assemblies are delivered with seals and assume the crank will be pulled with pressure on the outer race even the cases. IF the pressure required isn't too great no harm will come to those bearings. For that matter it takes a chit load of pressure to hurt those typical bearings. And I tried on some of the CHICLONE 660's to create issues by using a press and having things the same temperature.....those saws STILL run fine a few years later. The guys who make a big deal about that are usually trying to either justify something or sell something....the rest who follow along without knowing the details....lol ( One guy from another channel made that his thing..so I made a point of putting cases together with everything from a press cold to with my gloved hands using a wood stove. Needless to say I don't buy generalities. Too much engineer left in this old fart. And too many don't understand the physics of what they preach about. BUT if I were to write a manual.....lowest common denominator...least chance of "eff ups", pull on the inner races )