You are my kind of teacher boss, straight to the point, no waffle, fast paced, no constant repeating. Brilliant. I am off to buy your books. Thanks for the video.
Always appreciate your presentation style, Steve; slow enough so I can follow what you're saying and presented professionally to make your point compact. Your e-book is a real winner!
This video helped me so much. I was using the Nikon 500mm F4 with tripod and could never get sharp results. First off, I was using a flimsy tripod so after updating to a good heavy carbon fiber and using your recommended techniques almost all my shots are spot on! Thanks to you and your video!! Keep up the great educational videos!
Near 400 views and no one felt to comment? That's a little ungrateful. Either way, top tips from a top shooter. I look forward to these installments a lot Steve. I see your output on FM and it's just so 'night& day' between good, great, and the bar you've set so high for people to try and aspire to. So anything you add to this mixer is solid advice. Thanks once again, and look forward to more of your D500 images on the thread.
very well explained ... efficient and without unnecessary show-offs we see on many educational photography videos on the Internet ... enjoyed and learned a lot although i've been a semi-pro photographer for decades already ... great job! thanks
Thanks, great tutorial Steve. I now have a Neewer carbon fibre gimbal and you've taught me how to set it up for UK airshows. If COVID 19 lockdown allows them to happen!
I started using a bean bag on top of my tripod head for a pad to anchor my elbow onto ..This gives me a good solid platform so that i can freehand my heavy lens longer and offers me complete freedom from the tripod ...i dont miss near as many shots this way . For those who are frustrated with the limitations a tripod has try this method out and you can start using that tripod that you have stored in the closet out of frustration !
Steve, thanks a ton! I setup (properly) my Benro GH2 in 3 minutes! Then of course came to this video for tips.....and now off to the ebook download site. Much appreciated!
Another good video. I use the Gitzo GT5532LS tripod with my Swarovski scope for aircraft spotting from home. Rock steady mount. Gitzo used to have a video showing a young lady doing a handstand supported by 2 Gitzo 5 series tripods!! What better recommendation.
Thanks Steve Useful and practical tips that actually work. I appreciate you sharing your hard earned knowledge. It has made a real difference in my shooting. Your other video on properly balancing a long lens on a gimbal head was a real breakthrough for me. Simple, but fundamental in it's utility. Thanks! Tony
Thanks Steve. In the last part of the video with the smaller lens. You can rotate the lens collar 90 degrees. Drop the ball head down into the slot and loosen the rotation of the ball head which in effect gives you a mini gimbal. I use this with my D810 and 300mm 2.8 VR all the time. With Acratech ball head it works great. I believe that is what Tanguero is referencing.
+Gregory Hi Gregory. You get it, it is exactly what I mean. It saves money because there is no need for a special one axis head on monopod and works perfect mounted on tripod with medium tele-lens up to 300mm full frame.
Hi, Speaking about ball head technique, the way I turn around the double blocking-unblocking "game" Steve describes is this one : on sturdy ball heads there is usually a notch allowing the ball head to go totally horizontal (90° from up position). I put it that way, so the head is at 90° from the tripod. Then I dont have to un-thighten the ball or re-thighten it. The lens ring is loose, the ball-head is vertically stable (but unlocked) . The ball-head base allows to pan left and Right. The ball-head itself to tilt up and down and the tele lens ring from portrait to landscape shooting. I use that set up on a monopod as well to avoid the trouble caused by ball-head on a monopod (any one trying to stabilise a loose ball-head on a monopod knows what I mean ). It allows every movement softly and stable. I use a Vanguard SBH-30 ball-head. Lightweight but stable enough.
+Steve Perry There are circumstances where it is useless : If the tripod legs are stretched far (nearly 180° as my Vanguard tripod can do) to shoot laying on the ground. The DSLR's body can't pan far (no more than 30°) because it gets stuck by the tripod legs ...
This is the first time I comment on any of Steve's contributions but I feel like I must since some precision request mails got me on that video. I don't agree with the importance of having the horizontal pivot dead centred with the lens. True, it is critical to have a well balanced combo in the cradle BUT not at all to have it stay where it is left after SR. I suggest to have the cradle lowered by some 1 or 2 mm so the combo will resume an horizontal position - ready to shoot where ever the next shot is coming from. Furthermore, all my long lenses tripod have a levelling base, this is just as important as a balanced cradle since the combo is always keeping a perfect horizontal plane where ever it is pointed on the 360° axis. Without a levelling base, the combo WILL NOT stay where it was left. I am often asked by students to give some precision on your very valuable and ap- preciated videos but this one is the only one I felt I had to comment on
What kind of accessory allows you to rotate body + 360 degree lens ?? Was it a specific ring? Could you tell me the make and model you showed in the video ?? Great stuff you showed!
Good video, as usual, Steve. Regarding the use of a ball head, why not place the camera in the "U" slot (portrait position) and turn/place the camera in the vertical position. You now have a gimbal type setup. It works the same way.
Thanks. I don't use a ballhead like that because I think the gimbal is smoother and nicer to use. I've tried both and it's really not the same. Plus, the camera isn't centered and potentially not as stable hanging off the side. Oh, and some lens collars aren't as smooth with the weight like that.
@@backcountrygallery Thanks for the reply, Steve. I agree that the Wimberley gimbal head, hits all the right notes. The only reason I mentioned the ball head, is because you included it in your video. I own the Wimberley II and the Acratech GP ball head. Pros and cons, involving both.
Excellent video, Steve. One comment regarding placing my hand on top of the lens. I recently purchased the Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 and found that where I am most comfortable placing my hand is exactly where Nikon placed the focus ring. Very frustrating! I've tried moving my hand forward, but while shooting birds in flight I'm still bumping into the focus ring to much.
Steve, I love your videos and have learned a lot. I recently bought a Tamron 150-600 mm lens for my Nikon d7500. I am have a hard time controlling the lens. I am not talking about physically, although I wish I had your tripod. I am talking about even on a tripod while talking photos of a stationary bird (like an egret in the shallows of a lake for instance, my shots just aren't sharp enough. I am wondering if you have thoughts on "starting" settings to work from to help me be closer to correct exposure and hopefully end up with more keepers. Thanks a lot.
Thanks - very interesting video - one question please - I always understood you should turn off VR if the camera is on a tripod - is that not the case?
Depends on the lens. Some lenses require you to turn off VR, others (most modern Nikon lenses in fact) can detect when they are on a tripod and can be used that way.
Nice video. One caveat. I have read countless times to turn VR off when using a tripod. I have seen examples of tests where the picture is sharper when turned off.
When the camera is fixed in place on the tripod then yeah, turning off VR/OIS (or changing to panning IS like some lenses have) will give you sharper pictures. But in the technique shown in the video, the camera isn't locked down. It can be freely moved around, so having stabilisation on will be fine. It won't try and fight against the tripod with this technique like it would if it was locked in place.
Its really awesome. I use a monopod for my 70-200 2.8 (yes yes, its not that heavy but 3.5kg after a couple hours tends to hurt and if I lower my camera, its takes longer to recompose) and Ive tried that a couple times, feels a bit weird to turn the zoom ring. Is it just time to get used to, or zooms are a bit tricky? Thanks.
+Stephan Eilert Zooms can feel a little "clumsy" at times, but with practice it should be second nature. My problem is I usually shoot primes, so I have to adjust to a zoom each time I use my 80-400!
Steve, great video!! I have a Sigma 150-600 (S) mounted on my Nikon D810. I am using a gimbal head on an Induro CT414 tripod. Even with this I tend to fight to get really tack sharp images. I have spend hours calibrating the lens with the USB docking kit and do get a fair amount of decent images but no matter what I do I seem to lack the image quality I am striving for when I am panning BIF. The one thing I noticed in your video was the fact you mentioned turning on the VR (OS in the sigma). This confuses me as I see a major debate across numerous posts that say you should not turn on VR if you are on a tripod as that can cause issues in the lens that may cause damage. In the past I called Sigma and they said never use OS on a tripod but wonder if that was just a quick answer to get me off the phone. Will using the sigma OS on the tripod safe? Can you clear up this controversy?
Really depends on the lens. Newer Nikon (and Canon) lenses work fine on a tripod with VR, but the older lenses warned you not to do it. So, it depends on how Sigma's OS works. Usually the instructions will say one way or another, but I'm not sure if Sigma gives that info. Also, keep in mind you're not locking it down. Worst case, find a subject you don't care too much about and test it both ways :) That said, if you're shooting fast shutter speeds (you mentioned panning BIF), OS shouldn't be needed anyway. Once you're north of 1/1000th it usually doesn't help at all - other than to keep the viewfinder a bit more steady. It might be another problem (like dirty AF sensors), check out my AF Problems video, might be something in there that can help: ruclips.net/video/gEDzAMm1FCc/видео.html
Hi @Steve Perry, I use nikkor 200-500 on D500 with gimbal head setup. My question is, should the VR be kept ON or OFF when mounted on tripod? Since read may people saying to keep VR off on tripod.
Great video with very useful info and tips! Fluid heads are becoming more and more popular amongst wildlife photographers according to my observation. How would you compare them with gimbal heads?
The only fluid heads I've ever used were pan types in video and there's NO WAY I'd go with a head that slow (if that's what we're talking about). I honestly can't imagine anything better for wildlife than the Gimbal heads.
Dear Steve, I do watch almost all of your videos & tutorials. Recently I have purchased a Nikon 600mm lens and I'm totally confused which Tripod & Gimbal head I should buy! Appreciate if you could suggest a good quality one. I prefer a Carbon Fiber Tripod reverse folding type easy to carry on flight. Awaits your feedback...Thanks in advance
For the G series 600mm, I used a 5 series Gitzo, but for the new FL 600mm I'm using my 3 series Gitzo with it more and more, so I think either will do. I use a Wimberely WH 200 gimbal head - have for years - and really love it.
Sorry I was bit late to read your reply, I ordered a Really Right Stuff TVC-34L Versa Series 3 Carbon Fiber Tripod (Long) with Movo GH800 Carbon Fiber Professional Gimbal Tripod Head , Hope it will work with my Nikon D850 with my Nikon 600mm Fl
A tripod works well if you're going to stay in one spot near your vehicle, but I'd never see any wildlife if I did that here. I usually hike 4-8 miles each time I go out, depending on the park, so a tripod setup is out of the question because it's too heavy. Even a heavy-duty monopod + D7200 + 200-500mm lens setup feels heavy by the time I'm done, but it works pretty well.
I hike with the big setup all the time, more like 2-4 miles (my shoulder is more of a problem than anything else - it does get heavy), and that's with the D4(now D5) and the 600mm + 5 series, so it's doable. Most of the time that hiking is in areas where the animals might pop out at any time - and normally they are pretty flat areas too :) If I were going far back, I'd go lighter if I could, that's for sure. Now I'd take my D500 + 300PF + 1.4TC and not even carry a tripod. However, if I did want the big gear, I'd think about putting it in my regular backpack (the one I use for backpacking, not photography) - especially if most of the animals were back 4-8 miles. Just some thoughts - but yeah, if you can get away with not carrying a huge tripod and get the shots you want, I'd say go for it :)
Great Video, Thanks for posting. One suggestion would be to have the camera/tripod at eye level. In the video it appears you have to bend down a bit for the view finder. Thanks!
+Roni Chastain LOL - I was too lazy to bring it up higher! The truth is, most of the time I'm down low on my knees with it in the field. I like to get down to the animal's level. About the only time I'm fully extended is when I'm shooting over grass or doing birds in flight.
Hi Steve, could you please tell me where can I get a "Tripod Collar Mount Ring" for my Nikon 600mm f4e fl ed vr lens, the one you are using in this video? Thank you in advance for your help
Hi Steve! I just bought your wildlife book for some studying/reading whilst I'm on the plane. I love your tutorials and you're a phenomenal photographer! I was wondering if these techniques would apply to a 500mm mirror lens? It doesn't need a tripod mount as it's so light
The mirror lens is a different animal, many don't' have t tripod foot so you have to manage them like a shorter lens. However, it's tricky because the magnification is still very high.
Steve Perry yeah, I know! They're really tough to use but when I nail the focus, I can get really beautiful images! But usually, I've been just using it mainly as a video lens as it is so tough to use! Haha
Thanks Steve I like all your videos you have help me a lot in my photography and I'm get a Gimbal head .Have on order now its for my Tamron 150mm -600mm lens , I just got a Nikon D7200 and I have a Nikon D3200 .the Gimbal is price but I think its the way to go for that lens, and you have help me out a lot on deciding on this. so thank you and a A++++ on all your videos. your friend Harry up in CANADA.
Thanks, good info. I would have never thought that you could get sharp images from 1/60" at 500mm. I'm still hand holding and at 300mm tend to keep my shutter speed up around 1/1000". Faster for BIF. I have a question. In your e-book you refer to the 80-400mm lens. I have this lens and it looks terrible on my Nikon D7100. It looks better on my D810 but still is nowhere near as sharp as my 300mm f/4 prime. Any suggestions on how to get sharp images from the 80-400mm?
+Jerry Thompson Hi Jerry: 1. 1/60th is certainly doable but everything has to fall into place. The truth is, most of the time subject moment is going to be the problem at 1/60th and slower. So, you need a perfectly still critter, and then no wind, a steady hand, no adrenaline rush, all that stuff :) But yes, with practice 1/60th is can be done pretty easily - I can actually do it very consistently even with my D500's high pixel density sensor. 2. My 80-400 is very nearly indistinguishable from the 300 F4 PF - both are razor sharp for me. A couple thoughts come to mind. First, are you using the newer "G" version of the 80-400 or the old version - the old one was pretty bad most of the time. I'd also look at the possibility that it needs some AF fine tuning. Maybe it's front / back focusing. To test, setup on a tripod and take a few shots normally, and then switch to live view and refocus with that. If Live View is getting you sharp images, then you know there's likely something wrong with the calibration of the lens to the camera. If Live View is also soft, then you have a lens issue - possibly a bad copy of the lens (I got a bad 200-500, so I know it happens). Finally, make sure you're using enough shutter speed. It seems like 2/3rds of the soft images I see have motion blur. So many times, just popping up the shutter speed is all that's needed. Figure you need to double your shutter speed on the D7100 due to the high pixel density of that sensor.
+Steve Perry Thanks for the reply Steve. I'm using the AF-S NIKKOR 80-400mm 1:4.5-5.6G ED version, so yes, the newer "G" version. I had it professionally AF Fine Tuned to the D7100 and still soft but haven't attempted it yet with the D810. I haven't owned the D810 very long so will get on with doing the AF Fine Tune for the 80-400mm on it. The lens is good from 80-250mm but is soft 300-400mm. Also the mount has a little play so I sent it back to Nikon and they returned saying that the lens met all specifications and didn't require repair.
Hi Jerry - Sorry for the delay. Nikon sometimes does that, I've had it happen with gear I know had a problem. I'd try to send it back to them (maybe a different repair center). The 80-400 can really be a sharp lens. Maybe even send them sample images. Wish I could be more help, it's a shame you have a bad one and they're not helping.
Depends on the lens. Some manufactures tell you to shut it off for tripod use, some tell you to use it. You'll have to check your manual. I know with modern Nikon glass, you can usually use the lens on a tripod with VR on (but I tend to turn it off once I get over 1/500th ~1/1000th.
I talk about this in detail in one of my podcasts - everything you need to know about stabilization and tripods: backcountrygallery.com/category/podcasts/ (Podcast #3)
2 questions first question with a gimbal head is it hard to walk around with the gimbal head slung over your shoulder or is it going to be flopping all over the place? I like to walk then stop for a few minutes and then walk some more when photographing wildlife. second one question. I primarily use a ball head with smooth action but a lot of my photos are blurry I'm shooting at least one one thousands of a second with a Canon 500mm 4.5 L this lens has no image stabilization but I read that I don't need to have image stabilization when shooting that fast got my images are often blurry when shooting subjects that are over 50 yards away. even at 1 / 2000 ISO 400 I'm still getting a lot of blurry images any ideas?
I have no problems with the gimbal - I just lock the panning knob down before I walk with it and that seems to keep the rig from knocking me in the head (mostly). As for the focus issue, as Mark mentions, it could be a lens issue. However, there is a LOT that can go wrong and it's tough to say without seeing an image. Often, if you're only seeing the issue at a distance and you tend to shoot during the day you're battling heat diffraction. See this video: ruclips.net/video/mrZk6q4mjzg/видео.html
+Steve Perry i never considered heat as an issue. the optics are crystal clear. get this. i focused on a house roughly 1 mile away the house was in focus but the surrounding trees and leaves where blurry. lol. i will upload a few text shots on my Facebook page. Black Creek marsh wildlife journal. the baby wood duck on the cover photo has the blurr i am talking about
I read that some lenses have issues with the bokeh where the bokeh looks like motion blur occured but the point of focus is sharp, so its probrably that.
...3 years later and every bit as relevant. Great tips and demonstration...great teaching.
You are my kind of teacher boss, straight to the point, no waffle, fast paced, no constant repeating. Brilliant. I am off to buy your books. Thanks for the video.
Always appreciate your presentation style, Steve; slow enough so I can follow what you're saying and presented professionally to make your point compact. Your e-book is a real winner!
This video helped me so much. I was using the Nikon 500mm F4 with tripod and could never get sharp results. First off, I was using a flimsy tripod so after updating to a good heavy carbon fiber and using your recommended techniques almost all my shots are spot on! Thanks to you and your video!!
Keep up the great educational videos!
Near 400 views and no one felt to comment?
That's a little ungrateful. Either way, top tips from a top shooter.
I look forward to these installments a lot Steve. I see your output on FM and it's just so 'night& day' between good, great, and the bar you've set so high for people to try and aspire to. So anything you add to this mixer is solid advice.
Thanks once again, and look forward to more of your D500 images on the thread.
+John Skinner Thanks John :)
He is one of the best on the youtube. Always worth a look
very well explained ...
efficient and without unnecessary show-offs we see on many educational photography videos on the Internet ...
enjoyed and learned a lot although i've been a semi-pro photographer for decades already ...
great job!
thanks
Just bought my first long lens yesterday, Steve. Very helpful video. Thanks
Thanks, great tutorial Steve. I now have a Neewer carbon fibre gimbal and you've taught me how to set it up for UK airshows. If COVID 19 lockdown allows them to happen!
Great video. Concise. Informative.
I started using a bean bag on top of my tripod head for a pad to anchor my elbow onto ..This gives me a good solid platform so that i can freehand my heavy lens longer and offers me complete freedom from the tripod ...i dont miss near as many shots this way . For those who are frustrated with the limitations a tripod has try this method out and you can start using that tripod that you have stored in the closet out of frustration !
Steve, thanks a ton! I setup (properly) my Benro GH2 in 3 minutes! Then of course came to this video for tips.....and now off to the ebook download site. Much appreciated!
Another good video. I use the Gitzo GT5532LS tripod with my Swarovski scope for aircraft spotting from home. Rock steady mount. Gitzo used to have a video showing a young lady doing a handstand supported by 2 Gitzo 5 series tripods!! What better recommendation.
Thanks for all your help!
A big Thank you from Seattle. Fantastic Video!
Just got myself a brand new Benro setup (tripod + gimbal head) and this is another super useful video from you Steve! Thanks a lot!
Thanks Steve
Useful and practical tips that actually work. I appreciate you sharing your hard earned knowledge. It has made a real difference in my shooting. Your other video on properly balancing a long lens on a gimbal head was a real breakthrough for me. Simple, but fundamental in it's utility. Thanks! Tony
great tips, thank you so much steve!
Great explanation of a Gimble head! Very clear and concise. Beautiful wildlife photos!!
Good tutorial Steve. I use a similar technique with my big lens on the tripod - I find draping my hand over the lens does help reduce vibration.
Thanks Steve. In the last part of the video with the smaller lens. You can rotate the lens collar 90 degrees. Drop the ball head down into the slot and loosen the rotation of the ball head which in effect gives you a mini gimbal. I use this with my D810 and 300mm 2.8 VR all the time. With Acratech ball head it works great. I believe that is what Tanguero is referencing.
+Gregory Hi Gregory. You get it, it is exactly what I mean. It saves money because there is no need for a special one axis head on monopod and works perfect mounted on tripod with medium tele-lens up to 300mm full frame.
+Gregory LOL - I never thought of that, but it makes perfect sense if you have the right ballhead! Thanks!!
Hi Steve. Thanks again.
Hi, Speaking about ball head technique, the way I turn around the double blocking-unblocking "game" Steve describes is this one : on sturdy ball heads there is usually a notch allowing the ball head to go totally horizontal (90° from up position). I put it that way, so the head is at 90° from the tripod. Then I dont have to un-thighten the ball or re-thighten it. The lens ring is loose, the ball-head is vertically stable (but unlocked) . The ball-head base allows to pan left and Right. The ball-head itself to tilt up and down and the tele lens ring from portrait to landscape shooting. I use that set up on a monopod as well to avoid the trouble caused by ball-head on a monopod (any one trying to stabilise a loose ball-head on a monopod knows what I mean ). It allows every movement softly and stable. I use a Vanguard SBH-30 ball-head. Lightweight but stable enough.
+Tanguero5380 Thanks - Makes sense and would work great with the right ball head - I'll have to give it a try myself :)
+Steve Perry There are circumstances where it is useless : If the tripod legs are stretched far (nearly 180° as my Vanguard tripod can do) to shoot laying on the ground. The DSLR's body can't pan far (no more than 30°) because it gets stuck by the tripod legs ...
Great video & will use these techniques with my new Sigma 150x600 Sports lens in Yellowstone this summer. Thanks,
Thanks! You answered the questions I had and some I didn’t know to ask.
Really good tips, Steve. Thanks for creating this great video.
This is the first time I comment on any of Steve's contributions but I feel like I must
since some precision request mails got me on that video.
I don't agree with the importance of having the horizontal pivot dead centred with
the lens. True, it is critical to have a well balanced combo in the cradle BUT not at
all to have it stay where it is left after SR. I suggest to have the cradle lowered by
some 1 or 2 mm so the combo will resume an horizontal position - ready to shoot
where ever the next shot is coming from.
Furthermore, all my long lenses tripod have a levelling base, this is just as important
as a balanced cradle since the combo is always keeping a perfect horizontal plane
where ever it is pointed on the 360° axis.
Without a levelling base, the combo WILL NOT stay where it was left.
I am often asked by students to give some precision on your very valuable and ap-
preciated videos but this one is the only one I felt I had to comment on
What kind of accessory allows you to rotate body + 360 degree lens ?? Was it a specific ring? Could you tell me the make and model you showed in the video ?? Great stuff you showed!
Good video, as usual, Steve. Regarding the use of a ball head, why not place the camera in the "U" slot (portrait position) and turn/place the camera in the vertical position. You now have a gimbal type setup. It works the same way.
Thanks. I don't use a ballhead like that because I think the gimbal is smoother and nicer to use. I've tried both and it's really not the same. Plus, the camera isn't centered and potentially not as stable hanging off the side. Oh, and some lens collars aren't as smooth with the weight like that.
@@backcountrygallery Thanks for the reply, Steve. I agree that the Wimberley gimbal head, hits all the right notes. The only reason I mentioned the ball head, is because you included it in your video. I own the Wimberley II and the Acratech GP ball head. Pros and cons, involving both.
I enjoyed your video very much. Thank you. i have an older Gitzo 3530LS. Is this good enough for a 500mm f4L?
It should be OK - especially if it's the 500E (altho even the 500G should be OK).
Once again very well done, very helpful and informative, many thanks Steve
Thanks Steve , very useful tips..your all episodes very informative..
Should the VR be on or off when on tripod? Quite contradicting...
Excellent video, Steve. One comment regarding placing my hand on top of the lens. I recently purchased the Nikon 200-500 f/5.6 and found that where I am most comfortable placing my hand is exactly where Nikon placed the focus ring. Very frustrating! I've tried moving my hand forward, but while shooting birds in flight I'm still bumping into the focus ring to much.
I have the same gimbal head. Is there a way to go from a horizontal position to a vertical position
Thank you very much. Very good tips!!
Even if I have been using a Gimbal head for over a year, I just learned better way to use it!
Very helpful and well presented. Thanks!
Steve, I love your videos and have learned a lot. I recently bought a Tamron 150-600 mm lens for my Nikon d7500. I am have a hard time controlling the lens. I am not talking about physically, although I wish I had your tripod. I am talking about even on a tripod while talking photos of a stationary bird (like an egret in the shallows of a lake for instance, my shots just aren't sharp enough. I am wondering if you have thoughts on "starting" settings to work from to help me be closer to correct exposure and hopefully end up with more keepers. Thanks a lot.
Thanks - very interesting video - one question please - I always understood you should turn off VR if the camera is on a tripod - is that not the case?
Depends on the lens. Some lenses require you to turn off VR, others (most modern Nikon lenses in fact) can detect when they are on a tripod and can be used that way.
Nice video. One caveat. I have read countless times to turn VR off when using a tripod. I have seen examples of tests where the picture is sharper when turned off.
When the camera is fixed in place on the tripod then yeah, turning off VR/OIS (or changing to panning IS like some lenses have) will give you sharper pictures. But in the technique shown in the video, the camera isn't locked down. It can be freely moved around, so having stabilisation on will be fine. It won't try and fight against the tripod with this technique like it would if it was locked in place.
Its really awesome. I use a monopod for my 70-200 2.8 (yes yes, its not that heavy but 3.5kg after a couple hours tends to hurt and if I lower my camera, its takes longer to recompose) and Ive tried that a couple times, feels a bit weird to turn the zoom ring. Is it just time to get used to, or zooms are a bit tricky? Thanks.
+Stephan Eilert Zooms can feel a little "clumsy" at times, but with practice it should be second nature. My problem is I usually shoot primes, so I have to adjust to a zoom each time I use my 80-400!
Steve, great video!! I have a Sigma 150-600 (S) mounted on my Nikon D810. I am using a gimbal head on an Induro CT414 tripod. Even with this I tend to fight to get really tack sharp images. I have spend hours calibrating the lens with the USB docking kit and do get a fair amount of decent images but no matter what I do I seem to lack the image quality I am striving for when I am panning BIF.
The one thing I noticed in your video was the fact you mentioned turning on the VR (OS in the sigma). This confuses me as I see a major debate across numerous posts that say you should not turn on VR if you are on a tripod as that can cause issues in the lens that may cause damage. In the past I called Sigma and they said never use OS on a tripod but wonder if that was just a quick answer to get me off the phone. Will using the sigma OS on the tripod safe? Can you clear up this controversy?
Really depends on the lens. Newer Nikon (and Canon) lenses work fine on a tripod with VR, but the older lenses warned you not to do it. So, it depends on how Sigma's OS works. Usually the instructions will say one way or another, but I'm not sure if Sigma gives that info. Also, keep in mind you're not locking it down. Worst case, find a subject you don't care too much about and test it both ways :)
That said, if you're shooting fast shutter speeds (you mentioned panning BIF), OS shouldn't be needed anyway. Once you're north of 1/1000th it usually doesn't help at all - other than to keep the viewfinder a bit more steady. It might be another problem (like dirty AF sensors), check out my AF Problems video, might be something in there that can help:
ruclips.net/video/gEDzAMm1FCc/видео.html
Excellent and a BIG THANKS.
Hi @Steve Perry, I use nikkor 200-500 on D500 with gimbal head setup. My question is, should the VR be kept ON or OFF when mounted on tripod? Since read may people saying to keep VR off on tripod.
Thanks, Steve! I always find your videos very helpful and informative.
Thanks for the tips. It's not easy to get sharp images with such a long lens.
Thank you Steve!
What would you suggest for a large camera, non DSLR, with a big long lens
Excellent video! Thanks.
Sir is tripod with gimbal head is user friendly in case of wildlife photography than monopod
Excellent tips, thanks!
Great again Steve. Thanks!
Great video with very useful info and tips! Fluid heads are becoming more and more popular amongst wildlife photographers according to my observation. How would you compare them with gimbal heads?
The only fluid heads I've ever used were pan types in video and there's NO WAY I'd go with a head that slow (if that's what we're talking about). I honestly can't imagine anything better for wildlife than the Gimbal heads.
+Steve Perry Ok thanks for your advice!
I use the Sigma 150-600 Sports lens and it’s a beast. A good heavy duty gimbal made a huge difference for me.
I dont use tele lenses and im not so interested in wildlife photography, but i learned some interesting details in this Video!
Thanks, Steve! This content will help me a lot!
Dear Steve, I do watch almost all of your videos & tutorials. Recently I have purchased a Nikon 600mm lens and I'm totally confused which Tripod & Gimbal head I should buy! Appreciate if you could suggest a good quality one. I prefer a Carbon Fiber Tripod reverse folding type easy to carry on flight. Awaits your feedback...Thanks in advance
For the G series 600mm, I used a 5 series Gitzo, but for the new FL 600mm I'm using my 3 series Gitzo with it more and more, so I think either will do. I use a Wimberely WH 200 gimbal head - have for years - and really love it.
Sorry I was bit late to read your reply, I ordered a Really Right Stuff TVC-34L Versa Series 3 Carbon Fiber Tripod (Long) with Movo GH800 Carbon Fiber Professional Gimbal Tripod Head , Hope it will work with my Nikon D850 with my Nikon 600mm Fl
Thank you Steve
Thanks again you videos are great, however you "e book" is even better, and worth every penny! Thanks again for even more tips, keep them coming.
Good informative video thanks. I think Gimbal is the way to go for wildlife photography.
Hi could u tell whats ur height and ur tripod height?? Just to understand what will be the right height for me
A tripod works well if you're going to stay in one spot near your vehicle, but I'd never see any wildlife if I did that here. I usually hike 4-8 miles each time I go out, depending on the park, so a tripod setup is out of the question because it's too heavy. Even a heavy-duty monopod + D7200 + 200-500mm lens setup feels heavy by the time I'm done, but it works pretty well.
I hike with the big setup all the time, more like 2-4 miles (my shoulder is more of a problem than anything else - it does get heavy), and that's with the D4(now D5) and the 600mm + 5 series, so it's doable. Most of the time that hiking is in areas where the animals might pop out at any time - and normally they are pretty flat areas too :)
If I were going far back, I'd go lighter if I could, that's for sure. Now I'd take my D500 + 300PF + 1.4TC and not even carry a tripod. However, if I did want the big gear, I'd think about putting it in my regular backpack (the one I use for backpacking, not photography) - especially if most of the animals were back 4-8 miles. Just some thoughts - but yeah, if you can get away with not carrying a huge tripod and get the shots you want, I'd say go for it :)
Thanks for this helpful video.
Thanks for the top tips! How is the Nikon 24-70 VR working out since your review? Did you decide to keep it?
+Chrismzeller Sadly, I ended up returning it. I've tried three of them so far, none are good enough overall to justify replacing my old 24-70G!
Great Video, Thanks for posting. One suggestion would be to have the camera/tripod at eye level. In the video it appears you have to bend down a bit for the view finder. Thanks!
+Roni Chastain LOL - I was too lazy to bring it up higher! The truth is, most of the time I'm down low on my knees with it in the field. I like to get down to the animal's level. About the only time I'm fully extended is when I'm shooting over grass or doing birds in flight.
Hi Steve, could you please tell me where can I get a "Tripod Collar Mount Ring" for my Nikon 600mm f4e fl ed vr lens, the one you are using in this video? Thank you in advance for your help
I use the Really Right Stuff 600mm foot. Love it!
please tell me Is Photoron and Amazon basin tripod ki good for 55-250 lens ?
Hi Steve! I just bought your wildlife book for some studying/reading whilst I'm on the plane. I love your tutorials and you're a phenomenal photographer! I was wondering if these techniques would apply to a 500mm mirror lens? It doesn't need a tripod mount as it's so light
The mirror lens is a different animal, many don't' have t tripod foot so you have to manage them like a shorter lens. However, it's tricky because the magnification is still very high.
Steve Perry yeah, I know! They're really tough to use but when I nail the focus, I can get really beautiful images! But usually, I've been just using it mainly as a video lens as it is so tough to use! Haha
Thanks Steve I like all your videos you have help me a lot in my photography and I'm get a Gimbal head .Have on order now its for my Tamron 150mm -600mm lens , I just got a Nikon D7200 and I have a Nikon D3200 .the Gimbal is price but I think its the way to go for that lens, and you have help me out a lot on deciding on this. so thank you and a A++++ on all your videos. your friend Harry up in CANADA.
Would it be the end of the world if I used a Gitzo series 3 with a 500mm f/4?
Thanks again you videos are great
Thanks, good info. I would have never thought that you could get sharp images from 1/60" at 500mm. I'm still hand holding and at 300mm tend to keep my shutter speed up around 1/1000". Faster for BIF. I have a question. In your e-book you refer to the 80-400mm lens. I have this lens and it looks terrible on my Nikon D7100. It looks better on my D810 but still is nowhere near as sharp as my 300mm f/4 prime. Any suggestions on how to get sharp images from the 80-400mm?
+Jerry Thompson Hi Jerry:
1. 1/60th is certainly doable but everything has to fall into place. The truth is, most of the time subject moment is going to be the problem at 1/60th and slower. So, you need a perfectly still critter, and then no wind, a steady hand, no adrenaline rush, all that stuff :) But yes, with practice 1/60th is can be done pretty easily - I can actually do it very consistently even with my D500's high pixel density sensor.
2. My 80-400 is very nearly indistinguishable from the 300 F4 PF - both are razor sharp for me. A couple thoughts come to mind.
First, are you using the newer "G" version of the 80-400 or the old version - the old one was pretty bad most of the time. I'd also look at the possibility that it needs some AF fine tuning. Maybe it's front / back focusing. To test, setup on a tripod and take a few shots normally, and then switch to live view and refocus with that. If Live View is getting you sharp images, then you know there's likely something wrong with the calibration of the lens to the camera. If Live View is also soft, then you have a lens issue - possibly a bad copy of the lens (I got a bad 200-500, so I know it happens).
Finally, make sure you're using enough shutter speed. It seems like 2/3rds of the soft images I see have motion blur. So many times, just popping up the shutter speed is all that's needed. Figure you need to double your shutter speed on the D7100 due to the high pixel density of that sensor.
+Steve Perry Thanks for the reply Steve. I'm using the AF-S NIKKOR 80-400mm 1:4.5-5.6G ED version, so yes, the newer "G" version. I had it professionally AF Fine Tuned to the D7100 and still soft but haven't attempted it yet with the D810. I haven't owned the D810 very long so will get on with doing the AF Fine Tune for the 80-400mm on it. The lens is good from 80-250mm but is soft 300-400mm. Also the mount has a little play so I sent it back to Nikon and they returned saying that the lens met all specifications and didn't require repair.
Hi Jerry - Sorry for the delay. Nikon sometimes does that, I've had it happen with gear I know had a problem. I'd try to send it back to them (maybe a different repair center). The 80-400 can really be a sharp lens. Maybe even send them sample images. Wish I could be more help, it's a shame you have a bad one and they're not helping.
Thanks Steve.
Thank you
Hej Steve hav you maket a reciew of Tamron 150-600 G2 Tank you Jan Edelberth
Anuone that can recomend a nice tripod to carry a gimbal head. For now I just have small travel tripods and they are to flimcy
hi steve should i use vr when using a gimbal head
Hi, when on gimbal, should the VC be on or off?
Depends on the lens. Some manufactures tell you to shut it off for tripod use, some tell you to use it. You'll have to check your manual. I know with modern Nikon glass, you can usually use the lens on a tripod with VR on (but I tend to turn it off once I get over 1/500th ~1/1000th.
Great video!
I need to get myself a gimball head fro my Manfrotto.
I am confused.... Someone told me to turn off OS on my lens when on a tripod to get more stable shots... But you say to keep it on?
I talk about this in detail in one of my podcasts - everything you need to know about stabilization and tripods: backcountrygallery.com/category/podcasts/ (Podcast #3)
Excellent just purchsed my Gimbel Head and new Tripod for it
Thanks for the video!! ^_^
I’m looking for a tripod off Amazon for a Nikon P1000.
I thought turning off IS is a must on a tripod?
Any links to just the lens collar you have?
The collar ont eh 600 come with it, the one not eh 80-400 is from Really Right Stuff - they are my favorite for replacement collars.
do you always use a Arca-Swiss plate?
Yes :)
@@backcountrygallery I use Manfrotto plates and find they can add some looseness to the system. I just picked up gimbal.
@@mostirreverent My RRS / Kirk places are rock solid. For longer glass, it's better to replace the foot though.
2 questions first question with a gimbal head is it hard to walk around with the gimbal head slung over your shoulder or is it going to be flopping all over the place? I like to walk then stop for a few minutes and then walk some more when photographing wildlife. second one question. I primarily use a ball head with smooth action but a lot of my photos are blurry I'm shooting at least one one thousands of a second with a Canon 500mm 4.5 L this lens has no image stabilization but I read that I don't need to have image stabilization when shooting that fast got my images are often blurry when shooting subjects that are over 50 yards away. even at 1 / 2000 ISO 400 I'm still getting a lot of blurry images any ideas?
Maybe an issue with the lens?
I have no problems with the gimbal - I just lock the panning knob down before I walk with it and that seems to keep the rig from knocking me in the head (mostly).
As for the focus issue, as Mark mentions, it could be a lens issue. However, there is a LOT that can go wrong and it's tough to say without seeing an image. Often, if you're only seeing the issue at a distance and you tend to shoot during the day you're battling heat diffraction. See this video:
ruclips.net/video/mrZk6q4mjzg/видео.html
+Steve Perry i never considered heat as an issue. the optics are crystal clear. get this. i focused on a house roughly 1 mile away the house was in focus but the surrounding trees and leaves where blurry. lol. i will upload a few text shots on my Facebook page. Black Creek marsh wildlife journal. the baby wood duck on the cover photo has the blurr i am talking about
I read that some lenses have issues with the bokeh where the bokeh looks like motion blur occured but the point of focus is sharp, so its probrably that.
+Mark Chia bokeh is no as good as my Sigma 150-600
You really ought to call your channel, the No BullShit Channel. Sound advice based on experience.
Dear Steve Perry
, I am hungry to know how to carry such a heavy long lens and tripod on my shoulder so I could walk around the park?
Get an EPGear Pod Pad - see tip 6 in this video:
backcountrygallery.com/8-awesome-accessories-for-nature-photographers/
When you can buy nearly 4 of your camera for the price of his tripod....
sorry.....Gimball