Attempting To Replace My Rear Shocks And Brakes. (I'M A ROOKIE...)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Well, if you saw my last video, you would have seen that my rear shocks on my 2014 F150 looked pretty bad. So today, I'm attempting to replace my rear shocks and brakes as a rookie DIY mechanic! Did I do everything right?! I'm not entirely sure!
I’ve been a mechanic for 30 years and have had to work with and teach the younger mechanics and I have to say you’re doing a great job and seem to be very mechanically inclined.
Thank you! Appreciate that
I agree , you have good skills already @@Meg.August
I just have a question on why you are always wearing open toed slippers when you do mechanical work it’s not very safe
Has anybody else noticed that?
Hello Meg, while doing brake jobs, when you push the calliper pistons back for removing the callipers, keep an eye on your brake fluid level in the master cylinder, because pushing the calliper piston can cause the fluid level to rise and overflow, especially if the pads are worn out and the fluid level has been topped up...in some cases brake fluid is corrossive if it gets on painted surfaces...
I normally take syringe draw some out of the master cylinder to prevent it over flowing..
Just started watching some of your videos and am enjoying watching you overcome the challenges you take on. Pro tip from a mechanic that has worked on vehicles from areas know for rust, products like PB Blaster and Sea Foam Deep Creep are your friends. Also as a tool-a-holic, Having the right tool for the job makes all the difference in a job being easy or hard. In my area, most part stores rent tools to help those who don't own specialty tools for every job. Also, I would be glad to help you with any questions you may have about how to fix your vehicles. God bless and stay safe.
If one thing I could contribute to assist in removing rusty bolts, aside of penetrative spray and allow to soak for a few minutes, or overnight if possible, but then slightly tighten the bolt first to break rust (if possible), then turn to loosen a few turns until you feel it tightening (as rust will build up on threads and get clogged between bolt and nut, cause bolts to break or nuts to strip out), then reverse to tighten a couple turns to clean threads out, spray a penetrant to clean loosened rust build up, and attempt to loosen a few more turns until it tightens again, then reverse again a couple turns, spray, and continue until it separates! This will usually save bolts or nuts 90% of the time! just a little patients and spray normally saves them every time! Keep up the great work, your doing an awesome job!
Thanks so much @RAVHornE and appreciate the tips! Have a great weekend!
As a car mechanic I have to say I am impressed. I wish my wife could do that.
Thank you!
Hi Meg, I love your videos. I really like that you tackle things yourself and its very entertaining....And as a mechanic theres some very important key points that you must consider. 1. You always use your e-brakes, in fact...everytime you use your car, you must use the ebrake when parking, otherwise, the truck will just roll down the hill....You should revisit that wheel and replace the parking brake pads asap.....as it sits, your truck only locks 3 wheels when you park it. 2. Never use general grease for the sliding pins, you must use a silicone lubricant or ceramic based lubricant, make sure to search ''brake lubricant bottle'' lots of choices online as well. The technical reason behind it is because some parts inside the sliding pin are rubber based and this type of rubber is not designed for regular grease, as time goes by, this rubber gets swollen. 3. I noticed you did not lubricate the brake pad ears nor clips, you must lubricate either or, because this makes sure the pads slide properly and prevent noises while braking. 4. Before you start your job, you must check the brake fluid reservoir, remove cap, if fluid is half way up and you press your brake pistons, the fluid will go up, you must make sure fluid is not spilled when compressing all 4 wheel pistons. In the other hand, if the reservoir is almost full (because someone previously topped it off) and you dont check this, by compressing all pistons, all brake fluid will spill out in your engine bay and floor so you will have to remove some fluid before you start. Hope these recommendations help.... That been said, keep up the nice work Meg.
Hey Meg, love your enthusiasm and how bloody cheerful you stay when things go t*ts up! Only piece of advice with anything brake wise pads/discs replace both sides of the axle not just one side.
You are a breath of fresh air though!😂😂😂😂
Noted! Thanks for watching, glad you liked the video!
Always put jack stand under your axle Meg. Supports the load better. You did a good job❤️❤️
Better than an axle stand under each sill? I dont think so. Plus an axle stand under the axle would mean she couldn't have changed the dampers.
Jack stands under frame. Jack under axle to manipulate the axle where you need it to install the shocks/dampers let the Jack and gravity/truck do the work of compressing or decompressing the shocks/dampers for you. Great video and great job Meg! I’m loving watching you learn and grow. ❤
Even though I'm only 34 I've been involved in the repair side of the auto industry for 17 years. From what I've seen in this video you're already ahead of some apprentices I've worked with that were out of college. While yes some of your inexperience can be seen you have a good head on your shoulders and you're learning from what you are doing which is the most important thing.
Also, as a Canadian who owns an older vehicle in the rust belt myself, I understand your stance on the parking brake shoes. These can turn into quite the repair with not only shoes but hold-down kits and possibly new cables if they haven't been used in a while. If you do get them properly fixed make sure you use them all the time.
Lastly, a few tips I would like to share from my experiences, you can choose to take them or not. Try to make friends with your local auto parts store like a NAPA or Carquest. If you can find one with some good people they are worth their weight in gold in terms of information they can provide you and their convenience. Buy yourself a set of cheap files for cleaning rust off the caliper brackets where the pads sit. Sometimes a wire brush isn't enough to remove all the rust especially if it's the crusty stuff. If you live in an area where they use a lot of that brine on the roads during winter I would service(clean and lube) the brakes twice a year. It might seem excessive but it will make sure you can get the maximum life out of your brakes and allows you to catch any potential issues that are starting before they get worse.
Thanks for watching and for taking the time to leave this comment. They definitely brine the roads here 4 times a day for months so I should probably get on that twice a year program you mentioned!
Much respect for you learning to do these things for yourself. I wish more people were like this.
Thanks so much! Appreciate that. I hope to inspire others to take on projects that they once feared or doubted they were capable of!
I did this exact same job for the first time last year. I rounded off the bottom bolt on one of shocks. I was cranking on the wrong side. You did better than me!
Nice work taking on this project! It's not an easy one!
You did good regreasing the caliper slide pins; what i like to do is thread the bolts back into the caliper bracket so I dont lose them. Also happy you are using a torque wrench.
Glad to see others working on their vehicles. I can see why shops charge a lot but sometimes they can get a bit outrageous. Years ago i needed a new strut for my Toyota Matrix and a shop quoted me $1200 for all struts and shocks.. asked how much for just two struts, $800.. how much for just the one strut.. $600. I bought a set of struts for like $250 and installed them myself.
That's a good tip, thanks! Yes, it's crazy how expensive it is at a shop, that was one of the reasons I wanted to learn some of this for myself!
Try placing your jack stands under your axle. That way its not hunging off your springs and will make it higher
Maybe i'll give that a try next time, thanks!
You are doing great and learning a lot. I will caution you to be sure to get that E brake fixed ASAP. There is a reason it is there. Should you lose your master cyclinder the E brake is all you have to attempt to stop your truck.
Thanks, I don't use my parking brake but appreciate the feedback! thanks for watching :)
My brother and I were driving home from work and the piston seals in the brake master cylinder blew - NO BRAKING response at all!!!. Had to use the emergency brake to stop the car every time we came to a stop sign. He always had the release button for the e-brake depressed while he was pulling back on the lever to bring us to a stop. Please repair asap
+1 to this. The E in E. brake is Emergency! its for use in an emergency AND can be used as a park brake. if your normal brakes fail for whatever reason you have a second backup set. Nothing scarier that flying up towards a stop sign and finding out you have no brakes.
I don't think you're a rookie at all. You definitely seem to have a pretty good idea what your doing and I can tell you have some experience in wrenching. 😊 Things will only get easier for you the more time you spend wrenching. Its always satisfying to cross these projects off the to do list.
Thanks! I still call myself a rookie because I'm definitely no pro, but I appreciate the confidence you have in my abilities! It definitely gets a bit easier each time I try a new project 😊
Meg you’ve got to go back and repair the e brake even if you don’t use new gloves form fitting would be help knee pads and goggles are a must for you a more industrial jack is needed too your doing a super job keep up great work❤
I enjoy your videos it’s fun to see if you succeed on your projects you are a very confident and positive person . I wish I could have just half of your positive energy. Keep up the great work .
Thanks very much!
Good for you to work outside of your comfort zone. You documented the steps very well. Have a good Christmas.
Thanks very much! Happy Holidays!
Great job Meg, as always. I was always taught when changing brake pads to remove the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir, that way when compressing the piston you won't be fighting against the air in it. But be careful that the brake fluid doesn't spill over! Love your videos, still catching up with a few of these older ones, keep up the great work.
Thank you Mark! And so happy to hear you're enjoying the videos!
42 year wrench turning, non ASE feller here. I JUST learned that bag suspension still has shocks! I always thought the bags acted as the shocks also. I wish you great success as an easier on the eyes than Derrick (in TN) mechanic. Ok, back to the video b4 the ADD really kicks in...
Embarrassed...it's got leaf suspension and those are helper bags...meh, no regerts 😂
thanks for the support! glad you liked the video
Hey Meg
I cringed when you reinstalled the driver side rotor with the E-brake pads missing. Although you said you don't use it, it is a very important device. But hey, it's your truck.
Lol oh no! But yes, I don't use my parking brake, I just chalk the wheels if I park on a hill.
Canadians don’t mess around when it comes to road salt! Nice job !
Your E brake is very important as a parking 🅿 brake to hold vehicle stationary when parking on a grade or hill Before shifting into park.Most states will fail your inspection sticker if not working properly.
Maybe I'll fix that soon, technically it would fail inspection here too.
Agree, ALL cars on the road need working parking brakes in addition to the Park position in the automatic transmission. When parking a vehicle with an automatic transmission, ALWAYS set the parking brake in addition to selecting P in the transmission! If parking a truck on ice and not using the parking brake, it only takes ONE rear wheel to be on ice and the truck will roll! This is true with an open differential. I’ve seen it first hand. ALWAYS set the parking brake and keep the parking brake well maintained. This includes installing the parking brake shoes correctly inside of the rotor bell.
Yoh Meg what a refreshing video....as a man i cant barely do half of things you can do! Big Salutes to you sister!
thanks! appreciate that!
I love the self starter ambition you have. You've got some slick skills already and a great base knowledge for this stuff. Great video and keep challenging yourself!
A good rule of thumb is that the torque spec for a bolt is typically 10% more than for the nut. So, if you know the torque spec for the nut, just add 10% to get the torque spec for the bolt.
Always tighten rubber bearings (including shock absorbers) in the installed position or at least at the correct height with a jack
(in this case the height of the wheel hub with the rim installed)
set up and then tighten.
Otherwise the twist/load will be too great and wear will occur very early!
Maybe any other viewers can confirm or explain better?
i know it is a bit late but as a mechanic of 40+ years i can tell you now it is allways bet to change everything to do with your running gear in pair's from tyres to brake rotors to pads/ shocks/springs ect that way the car or truck is allways balanced correctly. but a fine job you did. allways take extra care when messing with suspension components as some can kill if not handled correctly.
Good to see the younger generation being self reliant. The more you do the easier it gets. Try to schedule your maintenance for Spring and Fall when possible, Happy New Year!
Thank you, Happy New Year!
I could give a lot of advice but all in all you're doing a great job! you can do another video on changing out the E brake shoes, you'll want to get that done because they could make noise and tear up the new drum, rooter because the linings fell off. fyi set E brake then put it in park... unless you're in Alaska at o-, -50 degrees, but try to be on flat ground= E brake cables have been known to freeze sticking the E brake on, till thawed.
You did a great job. It just goes to show what one can do when they set their mind to it.
A point about safety. I recommend you where more robust shoes when working around a vehicle. In those slippers, a dropped shock absorber, rotor, brake pad or heavy tool will be quite painful and could cause significant injury.
Thank you! These projects aren't easy, but thankfully we have so much information available to us, it makes them possible. Thanks for watching!
It's great to see you continuously learning about your truck. There is an old saying that I was told when younger: That knowledge is King. Have a Happy New Year
Thank you! Happy New Year
Hey Meg, great videos keep it up. Just a tip for when you’re doing the brakes, they should come with a small package of grease. To apply to the slide pins and as well you should apply it to the metal clips you put on at the 23:25 part of the video. This will help the pads move freely on the clips and help to avoid the pads wearing uneven or sticking.
Lovin all the chatter about foot wear and safety critics.
Keep livin your best life!
Petrolium based grease will make brake slider rubber swell up and can cause the caliper to lock up!!!
I'll keep an eye on them, thanks!
i learned that from experience. @@Meg.August
I was looking through the comments for this. Never use regular grease on the slide pins. You want silicone/synthetic grease for that (silglide or Permatex ultra brake lube are the most common)
Hi Meg - you are a new Mechanic you are doing so well. Amazing job Meg keep going strong and never give up ♥
Thank you!
I didn't clean or resurface my rotors when I replaced my pads on my MR2, but it made the first few stops a little interesting as they bedded into my existing rotors and probably scraped off any oils that were on them. Still going strong 50k miles later.
Also disk brakes are so much easier than drum brakes. I've never done drum brakes but when I was a kid I remember my grandfather struggling with them on my moms car.
That's good to hear about your brakes, glad they were ok in the end!
looks good, but I would have put copper grease on the bolt but not on the thread, and the shock absorber has a rubber on both sides that I think should be tightened when the car is in driving position?
great video, you have way more skills and work ethic than tons of teenagers nowadays. keep it up Meg
Thanks so much!
I love that wheely stool with the tool tray in the bottom.
It's the best! It's called Big Red
Hey women ….. it’s Timmy vancouver wa… iv been watching your great videos ! May I pass along a couple of pointers if no others have , SAFTY SAFTY has always been my deal , that being said these are just some things I’d like to pass along …. That when you torque bolts/nuts you should ALWAYS torque the NUT SIDE ONLY! Also when you installed the shocks the open bottom of the dust tube always goes DOWN …. You’re right that everybody starts somewhere and I admire you for that REALLY ….. your one tough hottie! Funny hard working diligent and by no means a quitter ….YOUR videos make my day! Thank You and be safe ….keep going with the videos ‼️
I noticed that the second shock was upside down, wondered if it was only me, though a lifetime in the motor trade, I saw a lot worse mistakes, including a brake pad with the backing plate to the rotor, and a wrongly fitted exhaust tail pipe, which rubbed through a rear brake line. Great tenacity. Always best to work on one side at a time, so you have something to refer to
Great job changing your shocks and brakes Meg
Thanks!
I wanted to help so bad lol but enjoyed seeing you do it yourself...Nice job!.....Just a friendly critique on safety...wear boots or heavy sneakers to protect your feet but MOST importantly get a pad for your damn knees Meg!!
Thank you! My foam pad is great and helps a ton when I remember to use it lol
As your doing the break pads on the other side, I kept wondering if you're gonna notice the shock is upside down. Great video though Meg
Hey Meg, love your enthusiasm!
Thank you!
Nice work Meg!
thank you!
Nice job Meg although I would never use (and trust) old shock absorbers , better get some new cheap ones ... and maybe try putting a bit of grease on the bolts when putting them in ?
Entertaining (I LOL'ed a few times) and a better job than I've seen many people do on brakes at home. Hard to believe you're a novice. Nice work.
Glad to hear you got a few laughs from this! I've learned a lot from watching others and try to be a sponge to new information whenever possible!
Once again job well done 😏
Invest in a Milwaukee 3/8 right angle impact wrench
It has saved me alot of time and aggravation 😉
Thank you! I'll look into that 😊
@@Meg.August it’s a little pricey but well worth the price
It saves a lot of time and energy
Hi Meg. Greetings from western Canada. I also have the same gen f150 and also doing some mods and minor maintenance myself. Best of luck with your projects.
That's great, they're great trucks! And thank you!
@@Meg.Augustis yours a 4.6L v8? 💪
Isn't the e-brake the hand brake or park brake. Those pads are engaged by a cable and stop your car from rolling when it is parked. I have those on my Tribeca, I've had the pads for a year and still not plucked up the courage to change mine. Keep at it, you are tackling things I wouldn't do. And you're doing it very well.
Great video Meg
Always change both sides when doing breakes.and use silicon greace on break caliper pins.also open the bleeding skrew when pressing in the piston you can destroy master cylinder if not.ceep up the good job learning buy doing
You should get anti-seize compound. I'd put it on every bolt you install.
I actually have it, and I've used it a couple times, but I don't know why I don't use it more, I'll try that on the next one!
So the e in e-brakes stands for emergency as in emergency brakes. I guess at some point in the development of automobiles they could be used in an emergency if your main brakes failed, but now they are really just parking brakes so your parked vehicle doesn't accidentally roll away. They should just call them p-brakes instead of e-brakes! Great videos, I love how you don't give up! (Question: Since you're not a mechanic, where did you get all your tools?)
Noticed that when you were taking out the bolts of the shocks you said why isn’t coming out. You broke the nut free but since it’s a long bolt the nut was further away from the bracket causing it to just spin. If you didn’t know already next time that happens just stick your wrench behind the nut and push it towards the end of the bolt. Hope that was a little insightful. Good job btw
Thanks for the tip!
meg your going a good job ! But when replacing rotors always replace both . Because it gives you even braking
While you work on one side, use the penetrant on the other side and let it do its thing, by the time you get there it should be much better.
Missed commenting on this one I think…so a few things. Willing to bet that E-brake will still work just fine. The liners on the pads came loose and fell off, the steal part of the pads will still reach and grab. The bigger concern is that having never used the brake, the cable is likely all super rusty inside and if you apply the E-brake, I would bet a lot more money that it gets stuck on…and I mean stuck!!
*note…replacing those other pads is waaaay harder and I’ve never done the cable, but probably sucks too. I like the “I’ll pretend like I didn’t see that” approach on that one. lol
Ya, at this point, I'd have to replace the cables and the whole system, which would be pretty expensive, but maybe in the future I'll have the means to do that.
@@Meg.August One upside…It would make some great content and a long a** video. lol
Learning by just jumping in and going for it. This is the way. 🤩
I know it's just how it is in your driving environment but them brakes look like they need more then just pads. Hope you'll be safe cuz we need more videos. Way ta go.
I stumble into your feed Meg! Omg I luv it and def follow
Thank you!
I. already. Knew. You. R. Real. Mechanic. You. Know. What. You. Doing
thanks!
I wish i had a gorlfriend that liked to work on vehicles like you do. All these years ive neen in the garage alone. That would be so much fun together❤❤
I am very impressed good job
Thank you, Anthony!
What an absolutely beautiful and capable woman.
thank you!
Outstanding job with your brake replacement. But I advise you wearing a safe footwear while operating around heavy compounds. Those slides are not safe for that job. Nothing personal, dear. Just hate to see anything threatening happen. Keep up the self responsibility.🌹 🔧
Thanks for looking out!
Great Meg !
Support that Axel .
Compare most of your Parts
B4 you start . Embrace mechanics Gloves .
Keep Learning !
🙋♂️
correct + safety shoes ... the day will come something happens - I speak from experience!
Bonjour je suis GERARD de DUNKERQUE dans le Nord de la France, j ai beaucoup apprécié votre démontage de vos deux ordinateurs , c 'était trés interessant 😀
New Subscriber here; You tackle each job with great determination! May I advise, _please_ purchase safety glasses, there are numerous design choices. *Keep the video's coming*
Thanks for subscribing! I need to get a new pair of safety glasses, mine are all scratched up!
I find that opening the brake fluid reservoir cap makes compressing the brake caliper piston much easier.
I'll try that next time, thanks!
I am a mechanic, you are doing great
Thank you!
i once told my apprentice that he could remove the air in the tire so i wouldnt be that heavy to lift. i think all mecanics told their apprentice something silly once to see what happen
lol! that's a good one - gotta keep them on their toes haha!
I miss my 13 F150. But I am on love with you doing this! I love it!
Thanks very much! I love my F150!
Hi meg, you did an Amazing job, it's just fantastic 🙂 you need to know that the safety éléments like a break disks need to bé replaced both sides on the same Time... But you need to Clean the caliper's pistons before putting the New break pads... Why ?? Becose when the pistons are nasty this one doesn't go inside the caliper and push the pads through the disk and that Premature disc wear so the disk is good for trash you Can Clean the caliper's piston with a wd40 + abrasive cloth (used for polishing for example)... Your New disk will be prematurely weared with the permanent push of the nasty caliper's piston... If you need some help let me know
You have a super rare 7 lug F-150. There are not many of those. It was offered by Ford as a HDPP. (Heavy Duty Payload Package)
Dude! your a natural honestly, im gonna.try amd het my wife to help me.with these tasks now lol
Thank you! It's tough work but it's rewarding!
I love watching your videos
Thank you! That's awesome!
Don’t install used shocks! They are a wear item. Put new ones on. It’s like installing a used water pump on an engine.
Way to grind away!!!! Jus a heads up always treat ur rig like it can fall at anytime, n other words never b n a compromising position when workin under a vehicle
Thank you!
You did a good job on your brakes. I wish you would wear some closed toe shoes. I would hate to see you hurt your feet.
Thank you!
There parking brake shoes and calipers slide pins I have done that for a living but not anymore I know what u are doing and keep doing what work for you
When compressing caliper it sometimes helps to open bleeder valve on caliper.
Good job in all. Where can I send you some you well fitted gloves for your next project. Keep these videos going I had a good watching them.
Thanks very much! That's very kind of you to offer. I'm hoping to get a PO box set up in the future! I'll keep the videos coming 😊
Hi Meg, just some little advice, if you are going to be working on your truck, you might want to get a 3 ton, or 4 ton jack. I dont know or see. But i think your jack is a 1 1/2 ton. I watched your video on changing out your Air bags. And you jack flexed a lot, and was kinda worried. So just be safe ok
It is actually a 3 ton, I just had the jack position really poorly that time, but now I have a better idea how to place it more safely. Thanks for looking out! It definitely was sketchy that time! 😬
@@Meg.August always, I will always be a Dad looking out❤️
Proud of ya. Awesome job ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you!
Meg just a tip and some knowledge ... threads on bolts. righty tighty lefty loosie in most cases. except, for reverse thread (uncommon) knowledge you will need to pull the rotor back off and replace the e brake shoes as the what is this is the shoes are destroyed the shoes have separated from the backing plates order the new ones and you will see the difference. do this pretty fast as the new rotor will be damaged by metal on metal condition. i like the determination a willingness to learn you have is the only reason i replied see link for reference you got this! ruclips.net/video/1ZZwFwzaStk/видео.html
I don't use the parking brake but maybe in the future I'll replace the parking brake pads. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
I really enjoy your vids . your doing great ! I hope to see lots more of your vids soon .
Thank you! I'll keep them coming!
Great ! I look forward to the next video .@@Meg.August
Thats so funny i work in flips too. Good job !
That's awesome! and thank you!
I learned nothing watching this video because yoga pants are much too distracting 😂. Seriously though you did an awesome job.
HI MEG. YOUR DOING GREAT WORK FOR NOT KNOWING MUCH ABOUT WRENCHING. WHAT SIZE TIRES DO YOU RUN ON YOUR TRUCK.
You try hard and do well on your projects, but must adopt better practices. NO flip flops, wear gloves that fit, both nitrile and mechanic type, ( no oversized bulky ones like you were using), with safety glasses, ALL the time.
Research things like parking brake shoes, ( do NOT leave them missing when doing your brakes), and install both new rotors at once. Get a stiff bristle brush and a gallon of parts cleaner can, (from any auto parts store) to use to remove the factory coating on the new rotors.
Keep right side slightly used rotor as a spare.
Use copper based anti-seize on caliper pins and bolts, after wire wheel removal of built up rust.
Use a crescent wrench's handle hole to slip over the c-clamp handle to gain torque when tightening the clamp on the caliper piston.
Make sure the caliper piston's boot is intact and not torn.
Replace if torn.
Tie you hair back so it cannot get caught where it could cause you harm.
Spread cardboard where chemicals like Brakleen can/will drip, and use a fan to ventilate the work area. Do not breathe get those chemicals on your skin.
Speaking as a retired foreign auto shop owner, I've seen a lot of bad things happen to those who are not prepared for the task at hand.
Good luck going forward...
Harbor freight..you can get a nice floor jack for less until you can get better...MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE 🎄...HAPPY HOLIDAYS
Good to know! Happy Holidays!
Great job!
thank you!
Hi Meg, new subscriber here. I was always taught to change brake disks (rotors to you guys across the pond) in pairs, I'm surprised when you had only one replaced on a road trip they didn't urge you ro have the oair done. Hopefully you haven't put much mileage on the one that was replaced.
Also I'm not sure about vehicle testing standards in Canada, in the UK the annual test (MOT) which checks how roadworthy a vehicle is, they will test the parking brake and fail the car if the locked wheels are able to rotate. I assume there's some kind of similar teat in Canada and your truck would fail with those brake shoes missing from the read brake assembly. You might not use them but it would be worth checking as I'm pretty sure you're going to need to put them back in before long.
Great work though, I wish I had that much space, I need to replace my front disks and pads, one of my front springs (it's snapped) and the boots on my driveshaft and steering rack. I don't fancy having to do it all out in the street in the middle of winter 😔
Thanks for watching and for the sub!
No annual inspections in Canada, you do it once when you first register the vehicle and that's it.
Nice Truck Meg! I need new brakes on my truck. Can you help?!
A tip for future brake jobs is to open the bleeder valve when pushing the piston back in. That way you don’t push all the garbage that collects in the caliper back into the system. Assuming it’s not rusted solid.
that's a great idea, thanks for the tip and for watching!
That's a horrible idea. #1 you'll allow air into the lines which will then need to be bled out. and #2, the chance of breaking that bleeder off is extremely high and if it breaks that means new calipers.
good to know! i'll look into some different approaches for the future
@@robertking7584 #1 if you hold the caliper with the valve up while pushing the piston in you won’t get air in there. If you’re really worried about it let it gravity bleed for a couple seconds to make sure there’s no air coming out. #2 you have to know if it’s a losing battle before you start trying to open the valve. And even if it does happen to break then just push the piston in without opening it and no harm done. It just means that you’ll know ahead of time that you need a caliper too if you ever need to open the system up for any reason.
Overall good job, get some steel toe or at least boots and eye protection. If you're around grabby, spinny things like belts and pulleys make sure to tie back that hair and ditch anything loose. Call me a safety nazi but strings, sleeves, jewelry, hair, gloves can cost a life time of pain. When I saw the rotor come off I was wondering how easy, then the parking pads fell.. When a bolt goes through a hole, as in the shock, you should put the torque wrench on the nut side and hold the bolt head.
Nice a 7 lug f150! I have the older 7700. Tough trucks for being heavy half tons
👍 NICE
Thank you!
If you've not tried this on those siezed nuts and bolts, switch direction back and forth a few times. 😮
I love this woman