Thank you for another great video and info! I got a L134 engine, that it seems like they weren't able to find parts for it on a previous rebuild and they used 8 exhaust valves with rotators from an F134 engine. Amazing how the valves would still seal good enough to run, despite the size difference for the intakes. Of course I'll make it right once I put it back together.
excellent information as usual...i can attest to the poor quality of some of the aftermarket fuel pumps...even after using a 1/4" spacer plate i was still getting too much fuel...i had to install a pressure regulator...i'm not confident on the longevity of the cheap pumps either (that includes the "brand names" which are made overseas now)..i carry a spare one in the toolbox under the passenger seat as a precaution...i have never heard of the Seal Test ones....maybe there is hope :)
I have been running the seal tested pumps for many years . There is so much junk out there and this is the only pump that works properly. Get one while Pete still has them and I am sure you will be pleased with it.
as an M38 owner, thanks for clearing that up and I'm looking forward to see the break in procedure for that MC... Can you please show in details the wiring for simple startup ? Thanks
Good video. Years ago I got tired of burned exhaust valves on my CJ2A L-4, so I switched to late-style F-4 exhaust valves. The F-4 keepers and rotating caps were the same as for Willys 6's of that era. I assume that's why the F-4 stem ends were turned down from approx. 3/8" to 5/16" diameter, matching the 6's smaller stems.
Hi Brian, thanks for the video. Quick question on a F head fitted in the cj2a. Wich carburetor would you recommend? With the F head being higher, I am quite restricted to the height of what the carburetor can be. Thanks for the heads up on the pump, I will get one from Pete
there are a couple of vids here on the 'tube with people using holley 1904's with an F-134 in a low hood jeep....there is only about 1 inch of clearance from the top of the valve cover to the bottom of the hood...
The big question..... Did those changes make anything better or worse? Wouldn't the valves rotate by some small amount no matter what? I would think they would by some small amount but that's just an educated guess
Thanks Brian ! Lou
As always good info!! And true about the pump, have it myself.
Hey Brian, all the little bits and pieces of information we get from you comes in handy when venting 👍👍👍
I like your builds. Don't listen to haters.
appreciate you watching
Great video. Thank you. My 51 M38 had the valve rotators in it. We didn't replace them in the rebuild.
Thanks again Brian. So much great information, so much appreciated
Love the channel. Thank you.
Glad you enjoy it!
Brian... Will like to see Lou's engine startup. Thanks, Juan
coming soon
Brian, Great info as always. Thank You
Don’t have the M38, but great info to help better understand my F134 and what to look for.
Thanks for the information Brian. Always learning something from your videos.
Glad to hear it!
Thank you for another great video and info! I got a L134 engine, that it seems like they weren't able to find parts for it on a previous rebuild and they used 8 exhaust valves with rotators from an F134 engine. Amazing how the valves would still seal good enough to run, despite the size difference for the intakes. Of course I'll make it right once I put it back together.
I always try to put out information that isn't out there so people can better understand things. Glad this helped, and thanks for watching
excellent information as usual...i can attest to the poor quality of some of the aftermarket fuel pumps...even after using a 1/4" spacer plate i was still getting too much fuel...i had to install a pressure regulator...i'm not confident on the longevity of the cheap pumps either (that includes the "brand names" which are made overseas now)..i carry a spare one in the toolbox under the passenger seat as a precaution...i have never heard of the Seal Test ones....maybe there is hope :)
I have been running the seal tested pumps for many years . There is so much junk out there and this is the only pump that works properly. Get one while Pete still has them and I am sure you will be pleased with it.
Howdy. I just ordered one of the seal test fuel pumps from Pete DeBella.
great, I am sure you will be happy with it
It arrived today, and looks great!
Keep up the good work, seems like most of the good parts come from Pete debella .
as an M38 owner, thanks for clearing that up and I'm looking forward to see the break in procedure for that MC...
Can you please show in details the wiring for simple startup ?
Thanks
Pete DeBella has kept me in parts for 7 Jeeps
Good video. Years ago I got tired of burned exhaust valves on my CJ2A L-4, so I switched to late-style F-4 exhaust valves. The F-4 keepers and rotating caps were the same as for Willys 6's of that era. I assume that's why the F-4 stem ends were turned down from approx. 3/8" to 5/16" diameter, matching the 6's smaller stems.
Good swap, they were onto something when they started developing the first rotator assemblies.
My pump has vacuum for wiper motor does Pete sell that one?
yes, give Pete a call and tell him that Brian sent you.
Hi Brian, thanks for the video.
Quick question on a F head fitted in the cj2a. Wich carburetor would you recommend? With the F head being higher, I am quite restricted to the height of what the carburetor can be.
Thanks for the heads up on the pump, I will get one from Pete
An f head in a 2a is very close to the hood. I don't know of a carburetor that will work that doesn't require a hood modification.
there are a couple of vids here on the 'tube with people using holley 1904's with an F-134 in a low hood jeep....there is only about 1 inch of clearance from the top of the valve cover to the bottom of the hood...
The big question..... Did those changes make anything better or worse? Wouldn't the valves rotate by some small amount no matter what? I would think they would by some small amount but that's just an educated guess
Valve changes made things better and the final rotator setup was used for many years in every F4 engine
would be interested to know if you found current production of the valves with rotators available? would convert my 2a.
you can use the later F head valves and rotators. Just check that they fit the seat properly or cut the seats when you install the new valves.
👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
thanks Jim