Thanks, all of your videos have been really informative for the newbie sharpener that I am. Ended up getting Naniwas Pro 800, 3000 and Atoma 400 and although this was quite the initial investment, I can’t be happier.
Some time ago you did a video on the Arkansas natural stones. In that video you mentioned that you were going to try them with water and in at least one subsequent video you also mentioned that you were going to do more tests with these stones. As I just received a set I would be interested in learning more. A new challenge for you is to sharpen a pizza cutter. not the long bowed knife that are used in the restaurants but the cheap kind with the circular blade that cannot be removed from the handle that are sold at the discount stores. Thanks, Dave
I like this type of Q&A sessions because you have evaluated many types of stones, diamond plates, a brick, a stone and a block wall. I want to sharpen knives without spending too much time and that is why I bought diamond plates I will polish some old knives with oil stones or use very fine polishing compound on strops or with polishing wheels. I know that one can spend tremendous amount of time polishing a gun or making a telescope lens and my brothers did just that. I polished metallurgical samples using polishing equipment in order to see grain structure for failure analysis. I even analyzed damaged Japanese swords that were destroyed by the US Military after WWII and there was no reason to destroy ancient samurai swords.
I wish there was a nice place for "theory concepts" discussion. anyway. a strop is a very gentle way to remove metal, but super easy to come by. The reason that it takes a very fine grit for a very aggressive edge, is because a rough stone will leave the surface very uneven and therefore fragile. Using finer grits allows for a flatter surface on the edge, meaning maximum strength and durability. Question: is it a common understanding (newbie here), that if you use a rougher stone to leave a VERY aggressive edge, then strop the edge bevel to a less aggressive edge, this can give a reasonable, lasting, still quite aggressive edge, even with a cheap, rough stone? I wish I could post drawings for clarity.
I like the toothy biting edge for kitchen blades over the mirror polished overly smooth edges. After using the 400 grit stone I use the strop with green paste.
I am new to knife sharpening and am planning on getting a Cerax 1000 to learn on with my newer knives. That being said, I have some older knives that are VERY dull and have no edge on them. Would you recommend taking my time and sharpening them with the 1000? Or getting something more aggressive in the 300-400 range to bring them back to life given my skill level (0)?
Hello, I just found your channel over the weekend when I happened to see a video entitled My sharpest knife ever Burrfection white #2. I will try to stick to a cliff notes verson bit it is going to still be a bit long. it kinda feel it was a bit of fate that I happened to see this well watching some of ABS master smith Jason Knights youtube videos. you can likely guess but I am a bladesmith and I am also kinda obsessed with making the sharpest blades I can. however, I just started making kitchen knives and feel I can learn a lot more about them here on your channel. also do not really do secondary bevels for my blades cutting edges. I have moved from the grinder to hand finishing and am moving away sandpaper to stones and I do not think it needs explaining. right now I am using edge pro 120-600 then 1000 and have an 800 brown king which I originally did not like the king do to its size, softness, and cloudly polish. I took a risk and cut a slab off it because I do not like the Asian polishing method of moving the blade across the stone, I like the western method of moving the stone on the blade. here's where it gets a bit long-winded: I have also moved from simple geometry of most western-style blades and instead have started integrating katana like spine bevels to western knives and am now playing with having different polishes to different sections because I personally find it aesthetically pleasing. (Note I am not yet selling my work because I chase the dragon that is perfection and because of that I want to have the paperwork showing I have passed the performance test all abs members need to become journeymen before I start selling) however, right now I really want to get some 6 inches by 1 or 2-inch diamond plates. I tried diamond hones just to compare the technology with stones,. I always like to go and get something lower end first because if I do not like how they work I do not take a big financial hit. cause if the technology did not impress me, the did impress me and diamond plates are a big investment so I would love a suggestion on what are say two good brands to get stones in this size. well, I will be watching your videos everyone has a brand the like more than the other and I am hoping you can suggest where I can learn more about the brands and types of Waterstones so I can pick out what I am looking for as I can't afford to just go out and buy some top quality stones. I would rather get some mid-range stones for now and slowly build up a collection.
I think maybe it was “fun gun” lol. Also, buy a wire dish drainer for stone storage. The plate holders are absolutely perfect for upright drying. If the spaces aren’t big enough just cut every other one with wire cutters. I wish I could show you a picture of mine. Especially for my Naniwa pros (Chosera) with need to thoroughly dry so they don’t crack.
Here's a question I'm sure you get often, but ought to be quick and easy: I'm looking to purchase two stones (plus maybe a leather strop) to keep my home-cook kitchen knives sharp--I figure one in the 500 grit range and one in the 1000 or 3000 range should cover all my bases--and since they're just going to be for regular kitchen maintenance "splash and go" should suit me better than soaking stones, so with a budget of let's say $50 per stone, what should I be looking at buying?
I have a king 1000/5000(use nagura to make paste) and a unused old leather belt(no compound). I spent like $30 total and easily keep a near mirror finish razor edge. you just need to keep in mind the edge geometry. some knives are beveled with a appleseed(convex edge) so sharpening at a larger angle is a must. Also stopping on a unsupported taunt leather like me attached to a anchor. (bone cutting knives etc). Fillet knives are the other end of that spectrum with the least edge bevel geometry. These you stropp on a leather that is anchored to a flat surface. You will find that the stropp method for the keen edge is more what your after and that the stones are for redefining that edge when it gets damaged or worn down.
OK, just a fun comparison question. If you were going to buy just one stone for general kitchen knife sharpening. From German to Japanese and everything in between. And you have just three stones to choose from; a Belgium Blue, a soft Arkansas and a 1000 grit Shapton glass stone. What would you buy and why?
Your vids are always very informative and are greatly appreciated. My question is where can one purchase some of the carbon fiber plates that you use? Thanks!
Hey Ricky, new to your videos, and am really enjoying them, very informative. What is your best recommendation for a setup for a guy just getting into knife sharpening. Lets say I have a budget of $200, and want to sharpen all kinds of different knives. Pocket, kitchen, hunting etc.. Thanks for your time from Canada!
cerax 1k + rika 5K bur.re/suehiro +a wet towel, or whetstone holder bur.re/naA902, well below your budget. at your max budget, the naniwa pro 800 and 3000 bur.re/naniwa, both sets can handle ANY knife you throw at them
My current setup is 320 shapton pro, 800 king, 4000 king, 12000 naniwa gouken. I wanna replace the king stones. I think I'll go with the Naniwa RYKY combo.
Your Q&As have been extremely helpful! I have a barber’s strop, and am wondering what your thoughts on using them for kitchen knives are? Does the flexibility make them a bad idea for longer or non hollow-ground blades like kitchen knives? Or would they still work well? Thank you for your time and content!
I have 2 Sharpton pro 1000s but that's only because a coworker broke one. Now I want to break my 320 lol. Having pieces around that I can abuse is kind of nice
Hi there, I’m new to sharpening and I bought 1000/6000 cheap stone on Amazon. I have made some practice and finally able to make all of my knifes sharp. So now that I know I can do it, I will like to have some advice on what would you by has a good quality sharpening kit? And keeping it simple has it can be. Thanks for you’re video 😉
Hi Ryky thanks for all the great videos there very informative. If you could have only one sharpening stone what would you choose. If I have strop do I really need a finishing stone. Thank you George
You're collection makes me fucking drool. As an aspiring chef that's been cooking for about 10 years. The 'Nicest' knife I've managed to add to my tool kit is probably my shun and a Chinese made Hinkle. Sad I know.
Great couple of faq videos, thank you very much! I bought a single beveled usuba knife in Kyoto (master Shigeharu shop), and I am struggling finding videos about how to sharpen it. I've found a couple, but they are really outdated in terms of quality and format, really hard to see what they are actually doing. Could you please record some sort of tutorial about how to sharpen those? I think it would have a lot of views as it is some kind of unique material. Thanks!
This question is about strop making. Where do you buy your buffelo leather? I am in The Netherlands so a European seller would be preferd cause sending costs from the usa are killing. I already made two of my own strops with hard wood and leather and yes it works but it's not flat? leather.
I personally just use a old leather belt with the buckle anchored to a wall or the like. no compound. The aged leather makes a beautiful scary razor edge. The idea of the strop is the remove the wire burr and the little imperfections left by the sharpening process. I find for razor sharp no bottom support or padded bottom works best.(appleseed edge geometry) for the work knives. Having it anchored to a piece of flat wood/stone/glass hurts you in sharpening a convex edge(appleseed edge). However, if you are sharpening a flat bevel like a fillet knife you do want to do it on a harder surface without much give.
Glad to see another video would you be willing to do a video on sharpening a mora knife it has a flat grind all the way to the edge I can't figure out how to sharpen it with the radius it has at the tip I would be willing to purchase it for you
Also look at the edge geometry. These should be a convex edge(appleseed) this type doesn't get as sharp as a straight edge but hold the edge longer and helps support it better so chipping and breaking the edge doesn't happen as much.
Good afternoon. My question is geared toward polishing. I know its more aesthetic than actually blade performance, but I love how mirror finish looks on my knives. My routine to get to mirror finish is: 1000 to 3000 to 8000 and latestly stropping on one of your leather strops (Rolled Buffalo love it) using 14k compound. This usually takes me 45 minutes per knife. Would you recommend skipping one or more stones? I fix chips once a month and strop every 2 weeks or as needed.
Thank you so much for your content. I'm considering buying my first branded stone and I'm having trouble choosing between Cerax 1000, King 1000, Cerax 1000/6000, and King 1000/6000. I'm mostly considering the Cerax 1000/6000 but I remember in one of the videos you were saying that it's not the same quality. I looked through a lot of videos and I cannot find it anymore, so I'm questioning now if it's true or not. Which one would you reccomend? I already managed to split hairs with a cheap stone and a leather strap, and I want to see how different would feel a better stone. Thank you.
Hello thanks for all the great content.. I just bought a Norton 1000 grit to set the bevel on my stright razors. I have been using lapping film with great success but am struggling with the Norton. Any advice on what I might be doing wrong or should I have chosen a different stone
I have searched through your channel and I've only found the two stones I use for polishing (Korin's Mizuyama 4000 and Kitayama 8000) mentioned in passing. Would you mind giving your opinion of those two stones maybe with a bit of use and compare to the naniwa pro stones? They'done everything I've asked of them and they've handled BD1N and HAP40 okay, but the stones tended to wear noticably quicker with the HAP40. The 1000 grit stone I've been using is a DMT Extra fine Dia Plate if that matters.
yes. i have. i think it's OK. the naniwa pro 800 is a much better stone. i think the name "brick of joy" caught people's attention, but upon use, not great. not bad. just OK. burrfectionstore.com/collections/whetstones-sharpening-kits
Hello! I have been a subscriber for a while and I just recently acquired a good japanese knife (shun). I was wondering if you could recommend a good budget (not cheap) sharpening and honing kit. Basically, everything I would need to keep good care of my knife. Also, does your store ship internationally (Mexico)? I would love to have access to the products of your store. Thank you for everything, I love your videos! P. S. Sorry if you have answered many of my questions already.
so I bought a yaxell mon santoku recently and I have a cheap Chinese cleaver to do all the heavy-duty work. it is necessary to add anything on top of these two to handle all the jobs in the kitchen? I used to do everything with that cheap chinese cleaver, including deboning fish or meat, but it gets difficult sometimes btw if I want an all-purpose knife and i handle meat more often, should i get a santoku (or a bunka), or should i get a kiritsuke for the job thank you
Question: regarding 'ruffing' / 'cutting' stones. Is there a functional differnce between oil sotone 'tungston carbide' stones, agressive diamond plates and someitng like a 120grit shapton pro? I do a lot of repairs for friends and use a couple of oil carbide's with good results (before moving on to either soaking stones ususally or natural oil stones if I've got some time to spare,) just curious if it's worth investing in a D.Plate or other? Regards Jordan
I do woodworking and currently have both western and Japanese chisels. I’ve started to use the Japanese chisels more so I’ve been looking at my sharpening system. I currently have a CERAX 1000, Rita 5000, Norton 8000 and a Tsushima ‘ocean blue” 12K whetstone. I work up through the grits as necessary depending on how much I’ve used a chisel. You’ve mentioned strops a number of times in your videos so I’ve gotten some equine leather and am wondering about which compound to use. I’ve been reading about CBN emulsions. Do you recommend them? If not, what other product would you recommend? Also, you’ve mentioned 1 micron which is close to the 12K stone so should I go with 0.5 micron? You may think that this is overkill but I do like a sharp polished edge. I’d like to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
Could you recommend a leather knife roll? Do you have or use one? Would you consider making one to sell? I do like the wooden magnets strips behind you as well. Thanks.
Similar question from the one I left on your last video, just had a second thought- What's your personal opinion of a kiritsuke style knife vs a basic chef knife?
I have 3 japanese knives. And one of them has become a bit dull. Is sharpening with a whetstone a hard task? I have never sharpened a single knife, with anything. I've been thinking getting Shapton 320, 1000 and 3000 and one of those angle things that keep the knife in an angle that I dont ruin the knife
Been watching your videos for a little while now and I’ve bought a cheap stone to have a go at a chefs knife which has never seemed sharp. It’s a stainless steel knife not expensive at all and I’ve got a 1000/3000 stone. I’ve managed to get it a little sharper but nothing like what I hoped and it’s taking forever. Should I start on a 400 as the knife is stainless? Thanks 👍🏻
Hey Ricky. Great vids. Been following the channel for a while now and was wondering if you could recommend a good low grit non diamond stone for repairs and regrinds and a good 1000 grit for cleaning up the scratch pattern afterwords
How do you think about Suehiro Cerax CR-4800? It's a $65 combo stone of Cerax 1000 and 6000 but about half inch shorter on the length and the width. How important is the size of a whetstone? Is this stone worth it? Or should I spend more money to buy Cerax 1000 plus another good quality fine grid stone?
Hi Ryky another great vid, and informative, thank you I tend to miss these great Q&A vids.......any way of tracking them? Question: what nagura would you use on 3000 and higher? Regards, Gary ..........AU
I have Naniva 800 pro and SUEHIRO RIKA 5000. What shall i buy when i have cuts in my Akifusa knife 64 HRC. Is the Atoma 140, Shapton Glass 320 or Naniva superstone 220 the best pick? Or can you recommend something else for the task? (Suehiro Cerax #320 (Thick Version) is impossible to find in EU.)
Hi, I was wondering if you sharpen other knives/blades besides kitchen knives by any chance? Maybe something like a kiridashi or a katana? or something more like a survival/field/tactical knife? and if so what stones do you use for them? Thanks
I'm a beginner who has not yet purchased any whetstone. My question is: Is there a point in getting the Rika #5000 with a Cerax #1000 whetstone over getting the Naniwa Pro #3000, when the Naniwa costs the same or less? From what I've gathered the Naniwa gives you a different finish (semi-mirroring) as opposed to the Rika (hazy). But from a purely practical standpoint it seems to make more sense to get the Naniwa because you only have to use one stone to get your blade both sharp and polished, which should save time. Right?
first off is how sharp of a edge can the steel support without rolling over (too soft) or chipping (too hard)? A 1000 grit stone will give you a poor shave grade of sharpness but that is the limit of most knives or blades in general. after the initial use IE break in. it'll be slightly to noticeable finer than the grit rating. It can very immensely between stones(brands,models, abrissive type,even batches assuming very low QC ). btw make sure you deglazed/unclog the stone after use. some stones clean with just a splash of water others have really bad glazing/clogging problems. for your first stone get something cheap that has a 400 grit and 1000 grit sides. most people only need cheap stones also almost everyone screws up their first stone so it's better to ruin a $20 than a $80 stone. do not go cheaper than $15 they tend to be unusable(I learned that one the hard way)
Hi Burrfection, quick question about compounds for strops. Are they all safe to use with kitchen knives? More specifically the Green Chrome Oxide Compound? Thanks
RYKY, I received a set of 4 Komikoto single bevel knives for Christmas. I believe they are a 53-55 rockwell. Out of the box, these are the sharpest kitchen knives I've ever used. I would like to learn to maintain them (using your tutorials of course). What stones do you recommend for me with a budget between 100-200 dollars. Thanks! great videos!!
A good #1000-1500 stone like the Suehiro CERAX, a diamond plate to flatten the stone ( flatten every time you've used it ) ; Atoma if your really into it, some cheap $20 one if your not sure; and a leather strop with some compound is really all you should need. If you really feel the need or you just want to, add a #5000-6000 and call it a day
IF IT’S THE SAME BRAND?(Kamikoto and not Komiokoto) Not do be a downer but those knifes use 420j2(source: kamikoto.com/pages/about-kamikoto) found often in the softest, cheapest knifes in stores, often made in china. And its 53+-2, meaning it can be 51-55 rockwell. Don’t waste a stone above 1000grit, save money and get something with a better steel quality. Just get the cheapest stone and use those knives to learn how to hand sharpen. *honest opinion.
keep it simple, the cerax1K, and rika5K bur.re/suehiro, stropping is optional, but you certainly can get a good rolled buffalo strop for all under $200
I'm sorry, They are NOT high quality knives. it really doesn't matter what stones you use when you have a knife of that quality. they are only 420J steel (by comparison, even walmart level knives are 440A or 4116. Even a walmart level knife is better than Kamikoto. I'm sure it was given with kindness, but they should have researched or asked a gourmet cook or a working cook who would have warned the giver. They are NOT Japanese knives like they pretend to be. they are Chinese knives.
I'm new to all this however I love sharp knives. I recently received a basic Lansky system that goes to 600 grit. I would like more or at least a 1000 grit? What to you recommend? I'm more than willing to get two or three stones. Yes I'm on a budget but not in the mood to get a cheap fix
i would not go with the "new cerax" does not sharpen as well as the pro grade cerax bur.re/suehiro, cerax 1k + rika 5k or shiramine 6K, is what i would do.
Do you have any suggestions for a whetstone that can sharpen both my single beveled Kamikoto kitchen knives, as well as getting my SpyderCo and Kershaw pocket knives shaving sharp again?
I have been stropping without compound on the rough side of water buffalo. Should I be using the smoother inside? Also, when should your strop be replaced?
Ive been following your channel for a few years now and im only just now really starting to get decent at sharpening.. my knives only go dull every so often so I don't get much chance to practice. At first i had to learn to hold an angle and i did that, then i just didn't understand what a burr was or what to feel for but now I do. My problem now is after I get my knife paper cutting sharp by burring both sides on a 1000 grit and then straightening out the burr It works pretty good, but if I try going to the 3000 or 6000 or whatever then it always seems way less sharp after im done than if i had just stayed with the 1000 grit. Should I be doing the same thing on the higher stones that I did on the 1000 and feel for a burr? or should I just be stroping and polishing on the higher grit stones and trying to preserve that burr from the 1000? Also im sharpening on a sharp-pebble which I know isn't great but I unfortunately bought before seeing the video with all your recommendations in it.
my guess is your angle changed from stone to stone..... try stropping after the 1K see how sharp your knife is. then strop after each stone after that to see where your sharpness is falling off
So for beginners, no whetstone, no strops, “medium” quality knives, which equipment would you suggest as must, barebone needed to get sharp knife?? I’m not looking for polish edge, looks etc, just plain functionality, so it cuts. For example out of box knife, so new, not damaged edge etc. Would cerax 1k and rolled buffalo strop be enough for day to day use or do I need something more? Thanks as always
Burrfection Wow, thank you for the reply, I appreciate it, a lot. I’ll probably order those two. So I don’t need anything or any step before sharpening with cerax 1k with knife that’s out of box state, new? So I take knife, slap it on stone, then strop and good to go? Presumably knowing how to sharpen. Thank you for your time
Hello, I'm rather new follower to your channel. So I apologize if you already answered this in the past. But my question is, when and or how often should a steel hone be used?
These really depends on what hone your talking about. The cheap ones remove a lot of material which can give a quick and dirty sharp edge but a leather strop is better for this even if you just use a old leather belt and wash knife afterwards. use the part of the belt that is inside and don't worry about compound unless your trying for mirror finish with scary sharp beyond razor
@@stressmasterbk4294 I appreciate the response. I was meaning the hone (or at least I think it's a hone), or steel rod that comes with a block set of knives. I don't have the money at this time to get good knives. So I'm hoping to learn how to maintain a cheaper set of Walmart knives that I already have. Saying that, I assume that your reply was already the answer I was seeking. Again, thanks for taking the time to reply, and thank you for your videos.
@@davidscovel5485 yep I have the same hone rod but almost nvr use it as it can very quickly destroy the bevel. I found this out on cheap walmart knives. The steel tends to not be as hard. Thus a leather belt on rough side works very well. When you can a combo stone like the king 1000/6000 nagura stone combo from amazon ran me $25 with finishing on a old belt give me scary sharp and long lasting but you can get the same result just with more time/effort on just the belt until you can afford a stone.
i didnt know what a strop was until literally last week. i made one with veg leather and ryobi compound from outdoor55's video.but the first time i used it it didnt make my knife sharper. for some reason i think stropping is harder than using a stone.
tsmspace using a strop on a knife is a little bit of over kill. However if you are a perfectionist it be comes a must. I use strops for maintenance and straight razors
@@coytheboy well, I agree, through life if I needed a sharp knife I either bust out my disposable blade knife and change the blade, or a quick roughing of the edge does the trick. However, I have a sword, and want more, and want to hobby sharpen and test cut. ,, so, the theory of a smoother surface SHOULD mean durability and improved cutting power., , assuming I can use the tools properly.
@@tsmspace have you tried just the backside of a old leather belt were the buckle is anchored to the wall or pole? It should make scary sharp within 5 min. if it doesn't than your not keeping the angle right on the stone part of the process. I had this issue at first as well. Also don't cut towards the stone has you don't have the muscle memory for that kind of sharpening. you only sharpen enough to get a wire burr on the edge from both sides. your strop to remove this wire and in the process you get the edge perfectly centered and scary sharp. so if you don't have a wire on the edge you can strop for days before you get the result you want. (I did it once for fun and to see how long it took)
“Assuming I can use the tools properly” this is key. Also if you really want to hobby sharpen buy a straight razor. And practice with that. You will learn more about sharpening than just focusing on knives. Also what grit stones do you have?
@@coytheboy my stones do not really exist yet. I have this "sun tiger" multi stone that's warped, I don't think the fine side is 1000, maybe it's like 300,600, (edit::: looking up matsunaga, I found the package, it's 100, 220) it's 3$ stone from basically the dollar store. I also have a smiths diamond sharpener from walmart. I ordered the King kds 1000/6000 it isn't here yet. maybe that's the best idea I've heard, to get a straight razor. I assume you mean like for a barber, not like a utility knife. ?? For the record my blades are all as sharp as I would have historically needed them, they will cut anything I've ever tried to cut, if I push, but they are in no way impressive.
Quick question...Do you think the King KDS combo would be effective in sharpening BD1-N steel? I am tempted to get a new Chef’s knife in this steel but not sure I want to shell out the extra $ for a diamond stone. Thank You!
Dumb comment perhaps, but I can't find the cleaning stones you are holding/describing at the end of your video. Newbie to this, but am finding your videos extremely educational. Could you please provide a link or at least the name/brand of the cleaning stones?
Hey, I have a Suehiro 650 and a Naniwa 3000. Should i get a 1000 Naniwa? Or is the 3000 & 650 good enough? Does the 3000 sharpens or only polish the blade?
not recommended. the baby oil has sense and other things added that could cause issues or transfer to food. I like to use boiled linseed oil from time to time but in very light amounts. Just enough to keep the leather cured and not dry rotting.
@@stressmasterbk4294 I use compound, and that's not something you should consume,so i always wash and clean the knives after stroping,but i will try and get some linseed oil.
Hi Ryky. Im planning on buying a German steel cleaver 56 rockwell from Amazon for $50 which goes on sale to $27. I also want to get a whetstone to start learning sharpening and to keep the cleaver sharp. Shoulf i get a 400/1000 whetstone under $20 or buy the king deluxe 1000? Thanks
the king 1000 is much better than other $20 400/1000 whetstone i have tried. it's up to you. save up and get a cerax 1k, and you'll never have to worry about upgrading. store.burrfection.com/collections/whetstones
I have the king 1000/6000 with nagura stone. Just be careful as the edge geometry on that will be a convex(appleseed) edge. This is to support the edge better. From my blacksmith buddies they say only stone if damaged otherwise strop with compound.
HI RYKY! DO YOU STILL USE YOUR NANIWA 800 WHETSTONE (ORANGE ONE) AT ALL? I HAVE 2 OTHER RELATIVELY CHEAP STONES Sharp Pebble 400/1000 & a 1000/4000 and wondering: will the 800 & your leather strop (unloaded) take care of all my sharpening needs, provided there's no major damage? I ALSO HAVE ATOMA 140 THAT I USE ON GARDENING EQUIPMENT (LOVE THAT SUCKER) & CAN USE ON DAMAGED KNIFE SHOULD IT OCCUR? I cannot afford to buy any more stones, so which do I keep? Thank you for such great info. videos!
@@Burrfection Is the 800 preferable over the lower grade stones I named (excerpt for Atoma; keeping that one)? Perhaps the cheap 6000 I have should be used; can't afford a 3K. BTW, I bought the Castilian leather strop from you. I haven't loaded it because I just don't like doing that to such nice leather; not sure it's necessary. Thank you!
Homie, I just got a set of whetstones and they build up residue so fast. I clean them more than I use them. They are splash and go...I thought I'd be ok. Please help me figure this out
@@becauseyoucan2171 it depends on the steels hardness not the steel type. If the residue is "floating" your fine to continue without cleaning. If it loading up the stone and not cutting as well as it should than rinse. As ricky said a rust eraser or nagura stone will clean it pretty fast. Also depends on what stone/grit your talking about. on my 1000/6000 king the 6000 grit loads pretty fast so I use the nagura stone it came with to prebuild a paste. This greatly reduces the load up times and the finish ends up between the king's 6000 to the nagura's 8000.
The amount of gear head cult here is enormous. Especially the 1st guy i was like wtf. Pro tip from me: it does not matter what you use to sharpen as long as you are able to do work after that with the knife. Just get any sharpening stone you can find and glue a piece of belt to a timber and apply any polish compound and you are set for life. Stop buying stuff! Stop the retail therapy!!
I disagree with you. You are almost as bad as first guy. If you watched many of his videos you would understand while skill like Rykys mastery takes work and talent. But also important you would based your life need and on how you feel for each whetstone. If there’s is only need for one type of stone there won’t be so many market for them. No one would come see Ryky:(
Does anyone have a place online I can buy a nice hand made or artisan Japanese knife? I am new to the knife world and don't want to buy from someone that is not reputable! Thank you! Looking heavily at a knife made by Yu Kurosaki
kit 8k over shapton 8k PRO version = better feel. between kit 8K and shapton 8k GLASS : glass is a bit harder, polish finish visually the same on both, glass is more money, and harder to find right now. bur.re/stone
_ David _ Source? Years of experience with Japanese natural stones. By drying with the larger surface areas exposed will prevent cracking or separating of layer as in Suita. But just common knowledge if you store on a 20mm side you have 2 sides of 80mmx200mm to dry evenly. Naniwa Chosera is a prime example for a synthetic Whetstone. Dry those flat and 8 guarantee a 3k or 5k will craze
Thanks, all of your videos have been really informative for the newbie sharpener that I am. Ended up getting Naniwas Pro 800, 3000 and Atoma 400 and although this was quite the initial investment, I can’t be happier.
Some time ago you did a video on the Arkansas natural stones. In that video you mentioned that you were going to try them with water and in at least one subsequent video you also mentioned that you were going to do more tests with these stones. As I just received a set I would be interested in learning more.
A new challenge for you is to sharpen a pizza cutter. not the long bowed knife that are used in the restaurants but the cheap kind with the circular blade that cannot be removed from the handle that are sold at the discount stores.
Thanks,
Dave
I had pretty much no question. Already knew it all. But watched you with joy because it is indeed my favourite topic and you are best at it. Thxxx
This video answered every question and even curiosity I had now I know exactly what I need to do to upgrade from my cheap whetstone
I like this type of Q&A sessions because you have evaluated many types of stones, diamond plates, a brick, a stone and a block wall. I want to sharpen knives without spending too much time and that is why I bought diamond plates I will polish some old knives with oil stones or use very fine polishing compound on strops or with polishing wheels. I know that one can spend tremendous amount of time polishing a gun or making a telescope lens and my brothers did just that. I polished metallurgical samples using polishing equipment in order to see grain structure for failure analysis. I even analyzed damaged Japanese swords that were destroyed by the US Military after WWII and there was no reason to destroy ancient samurai swords.
Good video, im sure you've answered these questions in comments but they are sometimes hard to find so its nice to have a video of it.
just doing my best
I wish there was a nice place for "theory concepts" discussion. anyway. a strop is a very gentle way to remove metal, but super easy to come by. The reason that it takes a very fine grit for a very aggressive edge, is because a rough stone will leave the surface very uneven and therefore fragile. Using finer grits allows for a flatter surface on the edge, meaning maximum strength and durability. Question: is it a common understanding (newbie here), that if you use a rougher stone to leave a VERY aggressive edge, then strop the edge bevel to a less aggressive edge, this can give a reasonable, lasting, still quite aggressive edge, even with a cheap, rough stone? I wish I could post drawings for clarity.
I like the toothy biting edge for kitchen blades over the mirror polished overly smooth edges. After using the 400 grit stone I use the strop with green paste.
nothing wrong with a toothy edge.
I am new to knife sharpening and am planning on getting a Cerax 1000 to learn on with my newer knives.
That being said, I have some older knives that are VERY dull and have no edge on them. Would you recommend taking my time and sharpening them with the 1000? Or getting something more aggressive in the 300-400 range to bring them back to life given my skill level (0)?
Hello, I just found your channel over the weekend when I happened to see a video entitled My sharpest knife ever Burrfection white #2. I will try to stick to a cliff notes verson bit it is going to still be a bit long. it kinda feel it was a bit of fate that I happened to see this well watching some of ABS master smith Jason Knights youtube videos. you can likely guess but I am a bladesmith and I am also kinda obsessed with making the sharpest blades I can. however, I just started making kitchen knives and feel I can learn a lot more about them here on your channel. also do not really do secondary bevels for my blades cutting edges. I have moved from the grinder to hand finishing and am moving away sandpaper to stones and I do not think it needs explaining.
right now I am using edge pro 120-600 then 1000 and have an 800 brown king which I originally did not like the king do to its size, softness, and cloudly polish. I took a risk and cut a slab off it because I do not like the Asian polishing method of moving the blade across the stone, I like the western method of moving the stone on the blade. here's where it gets a bit long-winded: I have also moved from simple geometry of most western-style blades and instead have started integrating katana like spine bevels to western knives and am now playing with having different polishes to different sections because I personally find it aesthetically pleasing. (Note I am not yet selling my work because I chase the dragon that is perfection and because of that I want to have the paperwork showing I have passed the performance test all abs members need to become journeymen before I start selling)
however, right now I really want to get some 6 inches by 1 or 2-inch diamond plates. I tried diamond hones just to compare the technology with stones,. I always like to go and get something lower end first because if I do not like how they work I do not take a big financial hit. cause if the technology did not impress me, the did impress me and diamond plates are a big investment so I would love a suggestion on what are say two good brands to get stones in this size.
well, I will be watching your videos everyone has a brand the like more than the other and I am hoping you can suggest where I can learn more about the brands and types of Waterstones so I can pick out what I am looking for as I can't afford to just go out and buy some top quality stones. I would rather get some mid-range stones for now and slowly build up a collection.
I think maybe it was “fun gun” lol. Also, buy a wire dish drainer for stone storage. The plate holders are absolutely perfect for upright drying. If the spaces aren’t big enough just cut every other one with wire cutters. I wish I could show you a picture of mine. Especially for my Naniwa pros (Chosera) with need to thoroughly dry so they don’t crack.
I was in the moment....
Here's a question I'm sure you get often, but ought to be quick and easy: I'm looking to purchase two stones (plus maybe a leather strop) to keep my home-cook kitchen knives sharp--I figure one in the 500 grit range and one in the 1000 or 3000 range should cover all my bases--and since they're just going to be for regular kitchen maintenance "splash and go" should suit me better than soaking stones, so with a budget of let's say $50 per stone, what should I be looking at buying?
I have a king 1000/5000(use nagura to make paste) and a unused old leather belt(no compound). I spent like $30 total and easily keep a near mirror finish razor edge. you just need to keep in mind the edge geometry. some knives are beveled with a appleseed(convex edge) so sharpening at a larger angle is a must. Also stopping on a unsupported taunt leather like me attached to a anchor. (bone cutting knives etc). Fillet knives are the other end of that spectrum with the least edge bevel geometry. These you stropp on a leather that is anchored to a flat surface. You will find that the stropp method for the keen edge is more what your after and that the stones are for redefining that edge when it gets damaged or worn down.
OK, just a fun comparison question. If you were going to buy just one stone for general kitchen knife sharpening. From German to Japanese and everything in between. And you have just three stones to choose from; a Belgium Blue, a soft Arkansas and a 1000 grit Shapton glass stone. What would you buy and why?
Thanks for an important and timely video. Is citric acid or oxalic acid safe to use on Japanese steel to remove rust and stains ?
Your vids are always very informative and are greatly appreciated. My question is where can one purchase some of the carbon fiber plates that you use?
Thanks!
Will have some in my store in a week or so... been working on them
Hey Ricky, new to your videos, and am really enjoying them, very informative.
What is your best recommendation for a setup for a guy just getting into knife sharpening. Lets say I have a budget of $200, and want to sharpen all kinds of different knives. Pocket, kitchen, hunting etc.. Thanks for your time from Canada!
cerax 1k + rika 5K bur.re/suehiro +a wet towel, or whetstone holder bur.re/naA902, well below your budget. at your max budget, the naniwa pro 800 and 3000 bur.re/naniwa, both sets can handle ANY knife you throw at them
My current setup is 320 shapton pro, 800 king, 4000 king, 12000 naniwa gouken. I wanna replace the king stones. I think I'll go with the Naniwa RYKY combo.
Your Q&As have been extremely helpful!
I have a barber’s strop, and am wondering what your thoughts on using them for kitchen knives are? Does the flexibility make them a bad idea for longer or non hollow-ground blades like kitchen knives? Or would they still work well?
Thank you for your time and content!
I have 2 Sharpton pro 1000s but that's only because a coworker broke one. Now I want to break my 320 lol. Having pieces around that I can abuse is kind of nice
just lend it to a friend, and it'll come back like mine
Hi there, I’m new to sharpening and I bought 1000/6000 cheap stone on Amazon. I have made some practice and finally able to make all of my knifes sharp. So now that I know I can do it, I will like to have some advice on what would you by has a good quality sharpening kit? And keeping it simple has it can be. Thanks for you’re video 😉
Hi Ryky thanks for all the great videos there very informative. If you could have only one sharpening stone what would you choose. If I have strop do I really need a finishing stone. Thank you George
watch the first minutes of this video ruclips.net/video/NVpPYnSSrRE/видео.html
this is the stone bur.re/naP330
Are there any new whetstones that you are eager to try out?
You're collection makes me fucking drool. As an aspiring chef that's been cooking for about 10 years. The 'Nicest' knife I've managed to add to my tool kit is probably my shun and a Chinese made Hinkle. Sad I know.
Great couple of faq videos, thank you very much!
I bought a single beveled usuba knife in Kyoto (master Shigeharu shop), and I am struggling finding videos about how to sharpen it. I've found a couple, but they are really outdated in terms of quality and format, really hard to see what they are actually doing. Could you please record some sort of tutorial about how to sharpen those? I think it would have a lot of views as it is some kind of unique material. Thanks!
will do
@@Burrfection That'd be so instructive thank you so much!
This question is about strop making. Where do you buy your buffelo leather? I am in The Netherlands so a European seller would be preferd cause sending costs from the usa are killing. I already made two of my own strops with hard wood and leather and yes it works but it's not flat? leather.
I personally just use a old leather belt with the buckle anchored to a wall or the like. no compound. The aged leather makes a beautiful scary razor edge. The idea of the strop is the remove the wire burr and the little imperfections left by the sharpening process. I find for razor sharp no bottom support or padded bottom works best.(appleseed edge geometry) for the work knives. Having it anchored to a piece of flat wood/stone/glass hurts you in sharpening a convex edge(appleseed edge). However, if you are sharpening a flat bevel like a fillet knife you do want to do it on a harder surface without much give.
Hi Ryky can you please review Brod and Taylor sharpener. Thank you
Glad to see another video would you be willing to do a video on sharpening a mora knife it has a flat grind all the way to the edge I can't figure out how to sharpen it with the radius it has at the tip I would be willing to purchase it for you
send me a link of your knife. i'll see what i can do
i see the knife. i'll see what i can do
@@Burrfection thank you
Is the technique to sharpening a pocket knife any different than a kitchen knife ?
no.... but pocket knives will most likely be a bit softer
Also look at the edge geometry. These should be a convex edge(appleseed) this type doesn't get as sharp as a straight edge but hold the edge longer and helps support it better so chipping and breaking the edge doesn't happen as much.
Good afternoon. My question is geared toward polishing. I know its more aesthetic than actually blade performance, but I love how mirror finish looks on my knives.
My routine to get to mirror finish is:
1000 to 3000 to 8000 and latestly stropping on one of your leather strops (Rolled Buffalo love it) using 14k compound.
This usually takes me 45 minutes per knife. Would you recommend skipping one or more stones? I fix chips once a month and strop every 2 weeks or as needed.
if you are sharpen more than once a week, go straight to 3K, then 8K. if you sharpen once every 2-3 weeks, then go 1K to 8K. try that
@@Burrfection Thank you very much for the advice. I'll be sharpening my knives this Tuesday fingers crossed.
Thank you so much for your content. I'm considering buying my first branded stone and I'm having trouble choosing between
Cerax 1000, King 1000, Cerax 1000/6000, and King 1000/6000. I'm mostly considering the Cerax 1000/6000 but I remember in one of the videos you were saying that it's not the same quality. I looked through a lot of videos and I cannot find it anymore, so I'm questioning now if it's true or not. Which one would you reccomend? I already managed to split hairs with a cheap stone and a leather strap, and I want to see how different would feel a better stone. Thank you.
I loved the video very much, very educational. Do you have interest of reviewing aura knifes?
thanks for the video! what's that paring knife in back without a handle??
the cool one btw
Hello. Great videos. I was wondering what is your opinion on Dalstrong Kiritsuke omega series chef knife? Thank you.
Hello thanks for all the great content.. I just bought a Norton 1000 grit to set the bevel on my stright razors. I have been using lapping film with great success but am struggling with the Norton. Any advice on what I might be doing wrong or should I have chosen a different stone
I have searched through your channel and I've only found the two stones I use for polishing (Korin's Mizuyama 4000 and Kitayama 8000) mentioned in passing. Would you mind giving your opinion of those two stones maybe with a bit of use and compare to the naniwa pro stones? They'done everything I've asked of them and they've handled BD1N and HAP40 okay, but the stones tended to wear noticably quicker with the HAP40. The 1000 grit stone I've been using is a DMT Extra fine Dia Plate if that matters.
Thank you for your video. I wonder have you tried Naniwa green brick of joy? Or do you have comments about it?
yes. i have. i think it's OK. the naniwa pro 800 is a much better stone. i think the name "brick of joy" caught people's attention, but upon use, not great. not bad. just OK. burrfectionstore.com/collections/whetstones-sharpening-kits
Hello! I have been a subscriber for a while and I just recently acquired a good japanese knife (shun). I was wondering if you could recommend a good budget (not cheap) sharpening and honing kit. Basically, everything I would need to keep good care of my knife. Also, does your store ship internationally (Mexico)? I would love to have access to the products of your store. Thank you for everything, I love your videos! P. S. Sorry if you have answered many of my questions already.
so I bought a yaxell mon santoku recently and I have a cheap Chinese cleaver to do all the heavy-duty work. it is necessary to add anything on top of these two to handle all the jobs in the kitchen? I used to do everything with that cheap chinese cleaver, including deboning fish or meat, but it gets difficult sometimes
btw if I want an all-purpose knife and i handle meat more often, should i get a santoku (or a bunka), or should i get a kiritsuke for the job
thank you
Question: regarding 'ruffing' / 'cutting' stones. Is there a functional differnce between oil sotone 'tungston carbide' stones, agressive diamond plates and someitng like a 120grit shapton pro?
I do a lot of repairs for friends and use a couple of oil carbide's with good results (before moving on to either soaking stones ususally or natural oil stones if I've got some time to spare,) just curious if it's worth investing in a D.Plate or other?
Regards
Jordan
I do woodworking and currently have both western and Japanese chisels. I’ve started to use the Japanese chisels more so I’ve been looking at my sharpening system. I currently have a CERAX 1000, Rita 5000, Norton 8000 and a Tsushima ‘ocean blue” 12K whetstone. I work up through the grits as necessary depending on how much I’ve used a chisel. You’ve mentioned strops a number of times in your videos so I’ve gotten some equine leather and am wondering about which compound to use. I’ve been reading about CBN emulsions. Do you recommend them? If not, what other product would you recommend? Also, you’ve mentioned 1 micron which is close to the 12K stone so should I go with 0.5 micron? You may think that this is overkill but I do like a sharp polished edge. I’d like to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
hmmm... based on what you already have. a diamond 1 micron / 14K paste would be where i would start.
Could you recommend a leather knife roll? Do you have or use one? Would you consider making one to sell? I do like the wooden magnets strips behind you as well.
Thanks.
knife roll.... will have to get to the drawing board. here are the strips amzn.to/39DOzGL
Similar question from the one I left on your last video, just had a second thought- What's your personal opinion of a kiritsuke style knife vs a basic chef knife?
I have 3 japanese knives. And one of them has become a bit dull. Is sharpening with a whetstone a hard task? I have never sharpened a single knife, with anything.
I've been thinking getting Shapton 320, 1000 and 3000 and one of those angle things that keep the knife in an angle that I dont ruin the knife
Love it. Thank you.
Been watching your videos for a little while now and I’ve bought a cheap stone to have a go at a chefs knife which has never seemed sharp.
It’s a stainless steel knife not expensive at all and I’ve got a 1000/3000 stone.
I’ve managed to get it a little sharper but nothing like what I hoped and it’s taking forever. Should I start on a 400 as the knife is stainless? Thanks 👍🏻
Hey Ricky. Great vids. Been following the channel for a while now and was wondering if you could recommend a good low grit non diamond stone for repairs and regrinds and a good 1000 grit for cleaning up the scratch pattern afterwords
this 120 stone amzn.to/3aHNP3t, and my favorite 1K bur.re/cx1000
do you have a review of the Morihei sharpening stones
How do you think about Suehiro Cerax CR-4800? It's a $65 combo stone of Cerax 1000 and 6000 but about half inch shorter on the length and the width. How important is the size of a whetstone? Is this stone worth it? Or should I spend more money to buy Cerax 1000 plus another good quality fine grid stone?
Hey, I'm trying to get into sharpening and have about $100 I'm willing to invest in it initially. What would you recommend on that budget?
bur.re/suehiro , cerax 1k, and rika 5k. all you'll ever need, and maybe a whetstone holderbur.re/naA902
@@Burrfection thank you! 🙏
Chosera 800, next question?
What are your thoughts on sharpening rods vs whetstones?
Hi Ryky
another great vid, and informative, thank you
I tend to miss these great Q&A vids.......any way of tracking them?
Question: what nagura would you use on 3000 and higher?
Regards,
Gary
..........AU
keep closest to your whetstone grit. i have used these in the past amzn.to/3bvKogi. the black 12K one is REALLY nice.
@@Burrfection much appreciated!
This old timer now got it sorted
Thankyou
I have Naniva 800 pro and SUEHIRO RIKA 5000. What shall i buy when i have cuts in my Akifusa knife 64 HRC. Is the Atoma 140, Shapton Glass 320 or Naniva superstone 220 the best pick? Or can you recommend something else for the task?
(Suehiro Cerax #320 (Thick Version) is impossible to find in EU.)
Hey Rky! Any chance you'll be reviewing the Dalstrong whetstone's in the near future?
😂
Hi, I was wondering if you sharpen other knives/blades besides kitchen knives by any chance? Maybe something like a kiridashi or a katana? or something more like a survival/field/tactical knife? and if so what stones do you use for them?
Thanks
will expand......
hi ryky do you think a 1000/6000 king ,3000 naniwa,and 8000 polish stone is a good combo
I'm a beginner who has not yet purchased any whetstone. My question is:
Is there a point in getting the Rika #5000 with a Cerax #1000 whetstone over getting the Naniwa Pro #3000, when the Naniwa costs the same or less?
From what I've gathered the Naniwa gives you a different finish (semi-mirroring) as opposed to the Rika (hazy).
But from a purely practical standpoint it seems to make more sense to get the Naniwa because you only have to use one stone to get your blade both sharp and polished, which should save time. Right?
first off is how sharp of a edge can the steel support without rolling over (too soft) or chipping (too hard)? A 1000 grit stone will give you a poor shave grade of sharpness but that is the limit of most knives or blades in general. after the initial use IE break in. it'll be slightly to noticeable finer than the grit rating. It can very immensely between stones(brands,models, abrissive type,even batches assuming very low QC ). btw make sure you deglazed/unclog the stone after use. some stones clean with just a splash of water others have really bad glazing/clogging problems. for your first stone get something cheap that has a 400 grit and 1000 grit sides. most people only need cheap stones also almost everyone screws up their first stone so it's better to ruin a $20 than a $80 stone. do not go cheaper than $15 they tend to be unusable(I learned that one the hard way)
Chosera 800 is your best option
Hi Burrfection, quick question about compounds for strops. Are they all safe to use with kitchen knives? More specifically the Green Chrome Oxide Compound? Thanks
you can use them in the kitchen, just wash your knives after you strops. i wash my knives after sharpening and stropping
@@Burrfection Awesome, thanks so much. Love the videos.
RYKY, I received a set of 4 Komikoto single bevel knives for Christmas. I believe they are a 53-55 rockwell. Out of the box, these are the sharpest kitchen knives I've ever used. I would like to learn to maintain them (using your tutorials of course). What stones do you recommend for me with a budget between 100-200 dollars. Thanks! great videos!!
A good #1000-1500 stone like the Suehiro CERAX, a diamond plate to flatten the stone ( flatten every time you've used it ) ; Atoma if your really into it, some cheap $20 one if your not sure; and a leather strop with some compound is really all you should need. If you really feel the need or you just want to, add a #5000-6000 and call it a day
IF IT’S THE SAME BRAND?(Kamikoto and not Komiokoto) Not do be a downer but those knifes use 420j2(source: kamikoto.com/pages/about-kamikoto) found often in the softest, cheapest knifes in stores, often made in china. And its 53+-2, meaning it can be 51-55 rockwell. Don’t waste a stone above 1000grit, save money and get something with a better steel quality. Just get the cheapest stone and use those knives to learn how to hand sharpen. *honest opinion.
keep it simple, the cerax1K, and rika5K bur.re/suehiro, stropping is optional, but you certainly can get a good rolled buffalo strop for all under $200
I'm sorry,
They are NOT high quality knives.
it really doesn't matter what stones you use when you have a knife of that quality.
they are only 420J steel (by comparison, even walmart level knives are 440A or 4116.
Even a walmart level knife is better than Kamikoto.
I'm sure it was given with kindness, but they should have researched or asked a gourmet cook or a working cook who would have warned the giver.
They are NOT Japanese knives like they pretend to be. they are Chinese knives.
@@Burrfection , I created an account and am purchasing a kit today....Thanks! PS...your out of strops dude :-) and yes, I misspelled Kamikoto
I'm new to all this however I love sharp knives. I recently received a basic Lansky system that goes to 600 grit. I would like more or at least a 1000 grit? What to you recommend? I'm more than willing to get two or three stones. Yes I'm on a budget but not in the mood to get a cheap fix
Michael Bereny 600 grit will almost be identical to 1000. Id say just go from 600 to maybe 5000 and you’ll be fine
hi Ryky, what do you recommend ?
NEW CERAX 1k/3k or 1k/6k combo for vg10 at 61+- HRC ?
awesome channel
i would not go with the "new cerax" does not sharpen as well as the pro grade cerax bur.re/suehiro, cerax 1k + rika 5k or shiramine 6K, is what i would do.
Do you have any suggestions for a whetstone that can sharpen both my single beveled Kamikoto kitchen knives, as well as getting my SpyderCo and Kershaw pocket knives shaving sharp again?
all of my top picks will handle them fine. if you want soaking, go suehiro, if you want non-soaking go naniwa bur.re/stones
can you please review some nenox knives! would be great to hear your thoughts on them
those are PRICEY knives....
Yes they are. Probably not much more than a KS though
I have been stropping without compound on the rough side of water buffalo. Should I be using the smoother inside? Also, when should your strop be replaced?
you can. but if the rough side is working well, just keep doing what you are doing. a good strop will last for years of use,.
Ive been following your channel for a few years now and im only just now really starting to get decent at sharpening.. my knives only go dull every so often so I don't get much chance to practice. At first i had to learn to hold an angle and i did that, then i just didn't understand what a burr was or what to feel for but now I do. My problem now is after I get my knife paper cutting sharp by burring both sides on a 1000 grit and then straightening out the burr It works pretty good, but if I try going to the 3000 or 6000 or whatever then it always seems way less sharp after im done than if i had just stayed with the 1000 grit. Should I be doing the same thing on the higher stones that I did on the 1000 and feel for a burr? or should I just be stroping and polishing on the higher grit stones and trying to preserve that burr from the 1000?
Also im sharpening on a sharp-pebble which I know isn't great but I unfortunately bought before seeing the video with all your recommendations in it.
my guess is your angle changed from stone to stone..... try stropping after the 1K see how sharp your knife is. then strop after each stone after that to see where your sharpness is falling off
@@Burrfection I'll give it a try. Thank you!
Can you talk about the Nagura/dressing stones that come with Chosera stones? Are they any good? Thanks!
great question. next Q&A
So for beginners, no whetstone, no strops, “medium” quality knives, which equipment would you suggest as must, barebone needed to get sharp knife?? I’m not looking for polish edge, looks etc, just plain functionality, so it cuts. For example out of box knife, so new, not damaged edge etc. Would cerax 1k and rolled buffalo strop be enough for day to day use or do I need something more? Thanks as always
cerax 1K, and newspaper if you want to go budget, but yeah.... cerax1K and good strop will give you an edge usable in any kitchen.
Burrfection Wow, thank you for the reply, I appreciate it, a lot. I’ll probably order those two. So I don’t need anything or any step before sharpening with cerax 1k with knife that’s out of box state, new? So I take knife, slap it on stone, then strop and good to go? Presumably knowing how to sharpen. Thank you for your time
Hello, I'm rather new follower to your channel. So I apologize if you already answered this in the past. But my question is, when and or how often should a steel hone be used?
These really depends on what hone your talking about. The cheap ones remove a lot of material which can give a quick and dirty sharp edge but a leather strop is better for this even if you just use a old leather belt and wash knife afterwards. use the part of the belt that is inside and don't worry about compound unless your trying for mirror finish with scary sharp beyond razor
@@stressmasterbk4294 I appreciate the response. I was meaning the hone (or at least I think it's a hone), or steel rod that comes with a block set of knives. I don't have the money at this time to get good knives. So I'm hoping to learn how to maintain a cheaper set of Walmart knives that I already have. Saying that, I assume that your reply was already the answer I was seeking.
Again, thanks for taking the time to reply, and thank you for your videos.
@@davidscovel5485 yep I have the same hone rod but almost nvr use it as it can very quickly destroy the bevel. I found this out on cheap walmart knives. The steel tends to not be as hard. Thus a leather belt on rough side works very well. When you can a combo stone like the king 1000/6000 nagura stone combo from amazon ran me $25 with finishing on a old belt give me scary sharp and long lasting but you can get the same result just with more time/effort on just the belt until you can afford a stone.
Should i buy the Cerax 1000 or 3000 or switch the brand and get the king 1000?
if you have knives over 62 rockwell go cerax bur.re/stone. if under then King is fine
i didnt know what a strop was until literally last week. i made one with veg leather and ryobi compound from outdoor55's video.but the first time i used it it didnt make my knife sharper. for some reason i think stropping is harder than using a stone.
tsmspace using a strop on a knife is a little bit of over kill. However if you are a perfectionist it be comes a must. I use strops for maintenance and straight razors
@@coytheboy well, I agree, through life if I needed a sharp knife I either bust out my disposable blade knife and change the blade, or a quick roughing of the edge does the trick. However, I have a sword, and want more, and want to hobby sharpen and test cut. ,, so, the theory of a smoother surface SHOULD mean durability and improved cutting power., , assuming I can use the tools properly.
@@tsmspace have you tried just the backside of a old leather belt were the buckle is anchored to the wall or pole? It should make scary sharp within 5 min. if it doesn't than your not keeping the angle right on the stone part of the process. I had this issue at first as well. Also don't cut towards the stone has you don't have the muscle memory for that kind of sharpening. you only sharpen enough to get a wire burr on the edge from both sides. your strop to remove this wire and in the process you get the edge perfectly centered and scary sharp. so if you don't have a wire on the edge you can strop for days before you get the result you want. (I did it once for fun and to see how long it took)
“Assuming I can use the tools properly” this is key. Also if you really want to hobby sharpen buy a straight razor. And practice with that. You will learn more about sharpening than just focusing on knives. Also what grit stones do you have?
@@coytheboy my stones do not really exist yet. I have this "sun tiger" multi stone that's warped, I don't think the fine side is 1000, maybe it's like 300,600, (edit::: looking up matsunaga, I found the package, it's 100, 220) it's 3$ stone from basically the dollar store. I also have a smiths diamond sharpener from walmart. I ordered the King kds 1000/6000 it isn't here yet. maybe that's the best idea I've heard, to get a straight razor. I assume you mean like for a barber, not like a utility knife. ?? For the record my blades are all as sharp as I would have historically needed them, they will cut anything I've ever tried to cut, if I push, but they are in no way impressive.
Have you used Minosharp stones?
If so , what's your thoughts on them.
very basic stones. they are fine
Stainless stool lol, poor toilet! CLONK! xD
time for a new sharpening video
@@Burrfection Oh BOY!
xD
Quick question...Do you think the King KDS combo would be effective in sharpening BD1-N steel? I am tempted to get a new Chef’s knife in this steel but not sure I want to shell out the extra $ for a diamond stone. Thank You!
bd1-n is rating 62-63..... kds is good up to 62 and really slow on knives over that. best budget is the cerax 1k bur.re/stones or the naniwa pro 800
Burrfection Thank you for the advice! I suspected the King May struggle with a knife that hard but couldn’t find much data out there.
Dumb comment perhaps, but I can't find the cleaning stones you are holding/describing at the end of your video. Newbie to this, but am finding your videos extremely educational.
Could you please provide a link or at least the name/brand of the cleaning stones?
rust erasers ? amzn.to/2Tzh3vR
@@Burrfection Thank you. Have managed to source these here in New Zealand and have ordered them. Again thanks I'm really enjoying your videos.
Where's the links for the Naguras that you talked about during the video?
amzn.to/3cJI1by choose the grit closest to your finest polishing stone
Hey, I have a Suehiro 650 and a Naniwa 3000. Should i get a 1000 Naniwa? Or is the 3000 & 650 good enough? Does the 3000 sharpens or only polish the blade?
i wouldn't bother getting the 1k. it's too close to the 650. i would consider a leather strop and load with 9K or 14K compound. bur.re/strop
Do you sell your leather strops?
Hi Ryky,
I'm a viewer from the UK.
My question is,..Can you use Baby oil to clean leather strops instead of mineral oil?
Thanks Very Much.
not recommended. the baby oil has sense and other things added that could cause issues or transfer to food. I like to use boiled linseed oil from time to time but in very light amounts. Just enough to keep the leather cured and not dry rotting.
@@stressmasterbk4294 Thanks.
@@stressmasterbk4294 I use compound, and that's not something you should consume,so i always wash and clean the knives after stroping,but i will try and get some linseed oil.
Hi Ryky. Im planning on buying a German steel cleaver 56 rockwell from Amazon for $50 which goes on sale to $27. I also want to get a whetstone to start learning sharpening and to keep the cleaver sharp. Shoulf i get a 400/1000 whetstone under $20 or buy the king deluxe 1000? Thanks
the king 1000 is much better than other $20 400/1000 whetstone i have tried. it's up to you. save up and get a cerax 1k, and you'll never have to worry about upgrading. store.burrfection.com/collections/whetstones
I have the king 1000/6000 with nagura stone. Just be careful as the edge geometry on that will be a convex(appleseed) edge. This is to support the edge better. From my blacksmith buddies they say only stone if damaged otherwise strop with compound.
HI RYKY! DO YOU STILL USE YOUR NANIWA 800 WHETSTONE (ORANGE ONE) AT ALL? I HAVE 2 OTHER RELATIVELY CHEAP STONES Sharp Pebble 400/1000 & a 1000/4000 and wondering: will the 800 & your leather strop (unloaded) take care of all my sharpening needs, provided there's no major damage? I ALSO HAVE ATOMA 140 THAT I USE ON GARDENING EQUIPMENT (LOVE THAT SUCKER) & CAN USE ON DAMAGED KNIFE SHOULD IT OCCUR? I cannot afford to buy any more stones, so which do I keep? Thank you for such great info. videos!
Yeah i use the pro 800, Not often though. Maybe once every 2 months. Most of my knives are maintained on 3k and strop weekly
@@Burrfection Is the 800 preferable over the lower grade stones I named (excerpt for Atoma; keeping that one)? Perhaps the cheap 6000 I have should be used; can't afford a 3K. BTW, I bought the Castilian leather strop from you. I haven't loaded it because I just don't like doing that to such nice leather; not sure it's necessary. Thank you!
@_ David _ Sorry. Usually told to do that on other sites for questions only.
the lower grade stones you named work fine, but wear really quickly when sharpening harder Japanese knives with 60+ rockwell
@@Burrfection Thank you!
What do you know about the Dalstrong stones.
i wouldn't bother
They are cheap trash in a fancy box
Homie, I just got a set of whetstones and they build up residue so fast. I clean them more than I use them. They are splash and go...I thought I'd be ok. Please help me figure this out
Could it be because I'm sharpening a Walmart knife so I could learn. Do different metals build up on sharpening stones?
clean your stones with the MED amzn.to/2Tzh3vR white writing.
@@becauseyoucan2171 it depends on the steels hardness not the steel type. If the residue is "floating" your fine to continue without cleaning. If it loading up the stone and not cutting as well as it should than rinse. As ricky said a rust eraser or nagura stone will clean it pretty fast. Also depends on what stone/grit your talking about. on my 1000/6000 king the 6000 grit loads pretty fast so I use the nagura stone it came with to prebuild a paste. This greatly reduces the load up times and the finish ends up between the king's 6000 to the nagura's 8000.
Thanks y'all
The amount of gear head cult here is enormous. Especially the 1st guy i was like wtf. Pro tip from me: it does not matter what you use to sharpen as long as you are able to do work after that with the knife. Just get any sharpening stone you can find and glue a piece of belt to a timber and apply any polish compound and you are set for life. Stop buying stuff! Stop the retail therapy!!
I disagree with you. You are almost as bad as first guy.
If you watched many of his videos you would understand while skill like Rykys mastery takes work and talent. But also important you would based your life need and on how you feel for each whetstone. If there’s is only need for one type of stone there won’t be so many market for them. No one would come see Ryky:(
Does anyone have a place online I can buy a nice hand made or artisan Japanese knife? I am new to the knife world and don't want to buy from someone that is not reputable! Thank you! Looking heavily at a knife made by Yu Kurosaki
store.burrfection.com/
👍
Kitayama 8000 VS shapton 8000 ?? Anyone here try them
kit 8k over shapton 8k PRO version = better feel. between kit 8K and shapton 8k GLASS : glass is a bit harder, polish finish visually the same on both, glass is more money, and harder to find right now. bur.re/stone
Shapton 8k isn’t a great stone, very “sticky”.
How do you know when to flatten your wet stones? Love your you tube channel
When they start smiling back at you 🙂
Stones should be soaked on their edges not flat
_ David _ Source? Years of experience with Japanese natural stones. By drying with the larger surface areas exposed will prevent cracking or separating of layer as in Suita. But just common knowledge if you store on a 20mm side you have 2 sides of 80mmx200mm to dry evenly. Naniwa Chosera is a prime example for a synthetic Whetstone. Dry those flat and 8 guarantee a 3k or 5k will craze
_ David _ get yourself a dish rack for the sink it will hold 7 or more stones
_ David _ not sure what your after. Maybe you would like something from the Kyoto Association?
_ David _ last reply to this. Just google how to store your whetstones. I’m sure you will get many photos of what I described
doesnt budget and cheap mean the same??
no.....
budget means "frugal" with VALUE as a prime consideration.
Cheap means poor quality and poor value.