Wow, that was absolutely beautiful to watch. I've just been given a few hand planers, in good condition but need sharpening, the whole process is quite daunting tbh but I got start somewhere, or as they say, just start !!
I've just spent hours watching you work! SO meditative and I love the music too. It's an immersive experience and I thank you for it. I'm new to woodworking and I get so many answers to questions I didn't know I even had yet by watching you flow from dimensioning to joinery through to finish. I feel a bit like an apprentice watching and absorbing. Often the sequence of how you work with hand tools is lost in article after book after video assuming power will be involved. You offer a rare glimpse into what used to be so commonplace. Thank you for spending the afternoon sharing with me. =]
Thanks Kevin, I appreciate the comments and very happy to hear the videos are finding a place with you. Enjoy the process and all the best in your own wood working journey. Tom
I love the close up shots of the finished sides. The texture of the open grain is a wonderful contrast. And that last shot with the end grain all planed down is stunning. Thanks for sharing your gifts with us. (I'm enjoying the music too!)
Working on my planing skills my respect for the art grows along with my shaving piles. Beautiful work and lovely music. Even though much is learned from various other videos, their crazy hiper active music and personalities to go with it, really defeats the purpose. So much respect and appreciation to you! -and thank you for reminding me to concentrate on the high spots as well as making a reference face-really, all of it ;)
you are awesome to watch man, I'm 26 and I have been a rough in carpenter pretty much my whole life just now starting out my basement woodshop and diving into the finer aspects of carpentry and hand tool woodworking is what draws me in, you are very fun to watch man. subbed and hope to see more from you.
Hey Tom, amazing work, you 're a master craftsman, the world needs to return the craft, people who can make quality and beautiful objects that endure over time, objects with soul.
So, Tom, a lot of examples of flattening boards start with a scrub plane, which you didn’t use here. Is this because the board was not super rough texture wise or because it didn’t need much taken off to get the first face flat? Is your plane blade straight, cambered, or straight with clipped corners? When _would_ you use a scrub plane?
Great question...thanks. You've pretty much answered it already- no scrub plane unless I need to remove a fair amount of unusable material...by unusable I mean material that couldn't be re-sawn and repurposed. I don't use a scrub plane very often. My Jack plane has a bit of a camber, but not as aggressive as most. hope that helps-
Omg, you are in TO ? I randomly stumbled on this video while searching planing rough lumber. I've bought some rough lumber from sawmill Syd thinking my friend could run it through his small planer and I'd be done, he did and it left snipe? marks everywhere. I have so much to learn but I'm assuming a more professional planer would leave little to no marks. I wish I could find a planing service in Toronto or GTA, I do understand the reluctance and reasons people don't want to plane other people's wood. Please lmk if you know of any planning services. Thank you and as I mentioned in another comment great video
This is very helpful. I'm currently researching aka working up the courage to buy my first set of tools. What size are the planes you are using? and what is the scoring tool called? Thank you.
Tom you are amazing to watch and have me drooling for a chance to learn. I think you may have saved me an amount of money from buying some really under capable cheap planes. My wife has hopes of us using reclaimed wood from a remodel of our house, to make a headboard. I'm pretty sure the wood is pine from over 100 years ago. It's really rough, but might be really beautiful when it's done. Is there one tip, aside from going with the grain, from your experience if you've been stuck working with softwoods, that you could post?
keep your plane iron sharp like a razor, and take light cuts. When you do have it flattened and smooth, if there's knots or pitch inside, try a clear coat of shellac and then finish. It'll seal the knots and pitch pockets from bleeding through the final finish- hope that helps, best of luck!
Hi Tom. I started tinkering with some walnut in advance of tackling your Gentleman's Valet in earnest. What primary bevel angle do you use on your Veritas jointer and do you use a wide or tight mouth? Thank you for the videos. I really look forward to your next book.
I usually sharpen by bevel u irons in the 30-35 degree range. As for the throat, it isn't super tight, average at best? thanks for the comments and questions and best of luck with the project~
simonc700- thanks for the comments and question. It's paraffin wax. A candle or bees wax would also work fine- it lubricates the sole and makes it easier to push. all the best~
Hi Tom, thanks for all the videos. I really enjoy watching the way you work. One question relating to dimensioning stock: If you were cutting a number of pieces from a wide board (as you are in this project) but the stock had to be reduced in thickness by a large amount, say > 3/8", would you do the stock removal on the wide board or the smaller pieces? I would guess that bulk stock removal with a jack/fore/scrub plane might be easier on a wide board as it is easier to run the plane across a wide board that a narrow one. Of course, it's always best to cut the board to length as much as possible as that will get rid of some twist. Thanks again!
Hey Nic, great question ! To be honest, it would depend on the piece. If I was sure about all of the parts needing to be re-dimensioned, then yeah, I'd probably saw them up and then resaw the 3/8-in. away.- Less waste that way. If I wasn't positive about the finished sizes, I may clean up the entire plank ( at least part of the way ) before I start breaking out the smaller components. Thanks again for the question...
I love the care that goes into wood worked by hand. Just out of curiosity how long did it take you to dimension this board? I am trying my hand at planing a board flat, but only have a #4 smoothing plane. The board I am working at the moment is fairly small 4/4 poplar at about 22.5" x 10". I feel like I'm doing it wrong though because I have been working on it for an hour now and still haven't got the first surface done. LOL, right now I'm not feeling that zen with the wood.
Jack of all- thanks for the comments and question- try hitting the high spots first- use a straightedge to identify the highs and lows- work the high spots down to meet the low areas and then start taking lighter passes and surface the entire face. There's a method to the madness! I'm assuming you're using a sharp handplane that's set up properly, but that's the basics in a nutshell. You'll find details and instructions, plans and projects in my book~ theunpluggedwoodshop.myshopify.com/collections/books/products/the-unplugged-woodshop-book try taking a class in your area and/or stop by the UW Toronto for an Intro Class - ;)) www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/school/2016-09/ all the best and thanks again!
Thanks for taking the time to reply Tom. I finally got that board flat and true. It had a bit of a bow (so that's my excuse lol)... that and I don't have my hand planing muscles yet :). I'd love to buy your book but it appears to be unavailable on your site.
I love the channel! You have a lot of passion in your work. I have just started out myself and wondering if you can advise on where to get the "wax rock" you use for the sole of the plane? Thanks again new subscriber!
Perfect! Thank you! I just, this morning on youtube, learnt what the cap iron is there for. Does make gnarly oak quite alot easier to plane :-p Winding sticks are a brilliant idea, especially when nothing is flat in my workshop... Will any two sticks that are straight do (or maybe two levels), or do you recommend paying for the real deal?
just out of a layman's curiosity if you need square rod with a final thickness of, lets say 1 inch all around, how thick would you saw off the material before start smoothing it with the plain? Thanks!
Nelson, thanks for the question. If it were me, I'd leave 1/16-in. to an 1/8-in. and then plane the piece to final dimension. That said, I've been doing this for a long time and I use hand tools on a daily basis. Beginners may wish to leave a little more waste- maybe closer to 3/16-in. As they say- you can always take a little more off- but putting it back on is difficult~ Hope that helps, all the best-
I noticed on this project you're using a low angle jointer plane verses the low angle jack plane. Curious, which do you find the most versatile in your overall work?
Donald, thanks for the question. Without a doubt the Jack is in my hands more than the Jointer- I was using it here because of the scale of the work. Anything over 24-in. I use the Jointer. all the best~
As tedious as that looks it looks way better than going to a gym and lifting weight for the sake of lifting weight. At least you've got something to show for your effort. How long does that take for you to do without the camera on and how long would it take a new woodworker?
Thanks for the question and comments. If you're asking how the long entire table took me, hard to say as I was writing my book and shooting everything as I went. I'd guess that it would probably be in the 120 + hours..? Just a guess. all the best~
ronin4711- thanks for the question. I don't own any, but I have used his saws. They come as advertised and many people really like them. Rob knows what he's doing-; )
Tom, I'm having a terrible time hand planing ( #8 jointing plane) over softwood knots. The plane just rides ride over it. So, its really hard to get a flat surface. I have to work with what I've got. I've resorted to chiseling them down, but thats a pain. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks for the question- If the plane is skating over the knots then it sounds like its a sharpening issue. Try putting a razor edge on the iron and take a lighter cut. Work across the grain and when you get to a knot, really slow down and try to slice it instead of passing over or banging into it. Knots are never fun to deal with-; ) best of luck with it.
Tom Fidgen I have been banging those knots! I think I've been losing my edge that way. I will try. I thought my edge was pretty sharp, but after all that banging...I probably just destroyed the edge. It is a thinner old blade. I'm wondering if a thicker blade will hold an edge longer? Thanks!
yeah, thicker blades are worth the investment. You'll find replacement blades through many of the modern tool manufacturers- these new blades will fit your old Stanley ( or similar ) and keep an edge much longer. If you have a block plane, you could sharpen that up and hit only the knot areas first, with the smaller plane, and then finish the top with the larger plane. always options! best of luck~
Tony, thanks for the question. This is a Jointing plane- similar to my Jack bu with a longer sole. Here's a link: www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=52414&cat=1,41182,48944,52414 all the best~
Do you not have to check if the face is totally flat lengthwise and across the grain? Maybe because your plane is so long? Not criticizing your work, I've seen super experienced people barely check. Just don't understand
I would only use a Scrub plane if the mill/saw marks were extremely deep- these days I prefer to use a Jack and/or Jointer, depending on how large the work is... I find Scrub planes remove more material than is necessary. thanks for the question~
Sorry I’m a year late guys... But this scrub plane business... I was told by a man I worked for that the scrub was never really used by a joiner...they were more aimed at framers/house builders as ripping 1/4 or so off a 2x4 could be done faster than with a hand saw and more accurately than a hatchet. I like to believe him. Has the scrub plane always been in woodworking shops?...ain’t it just an ol wore out coffin plane with the points rounded off the blade ?
+Marcelo Iván Rojas Hernández lol- ; ) no offence taken! and to answer your question, no- it doesn't look like it. you may be seeing the open grain structure on the edge of the walnut but no, I can't see any tear out in this shot. That said, sometimes wood does tear-out and when it does I don't worry too much. I will just stop and go re-sharpen my tools. When that doesn't work, I move to a higher angle plane. Tear out happens to everyone...it's really no worry. thanks for the questions! all the best~
Lovely lovely lovely.
Wow, that was absolutely beautiful to watch.
I've just been given a few hand planers, in good condition but need sharpening, the whole process is quite daunting tbh but I got start somewhere, or as they say, just start !!
Very nice, thanks for sharing!
I've just spent hours watching you work! SO meditative and I love the music too. It's an immersive experience and I thank you for it.
I'm new to woodworking and I get so many answers to questions I didn't know I even had yet by watching you flow from dimensioning to joinery through to finish. I feel a bit like an apprentice watching and absorbing. Often the sequence of how you work with hand tools is lost in article after book after video assuming power will be involved. You offer a rare glimpse into what used to be so commonplace.
Thank you for spending the afternoon sharing with me. =]
Thanks Kevin, I appreciate the comments and very happy to hear the videos are finding a place with you.
Enjoy the process and all the best in your own wood working journey.
Tom
I always enjoy watching any unplugged workman .You are guaranteed a great piece evry time.
Thank you Tom.
honestly,, doing this is the only exercise I ever get. I enjoy hand tools when I have the time to use them.
this looks so pleasingly perfect
I love the close up shots of the finished sides. The texture of the open grain is a wonderful contrast. And that last shot with the end grain all planed down is stunning. Thanks for sharing your gifts with us. (I'm enjoying the music too!)
+JD Fidler Thanks JD!
I really love your job, Tom. It`s good to see your art, your craft and the information you bing. Thanks
Beautiful to watch, I love to plane timber
Working on my planing skills my respect for the art grows along with my shaving piles.
Beautiful work and lovely music. Even though much is learned from various other videos, their crazy hiper active music and personalities to go with it, really defeats the purpose. So much respect and appreciation to you!
-and thank you for reminding me to concentrate on the high spots as well as making a reference face-really, all of it ;)
you are awesome to watch man, I'm 26 and I have been a rough in carpenter pretty much my whole life just now starting out my basement woodshop and diving into the finer aspects of carpentry and hand tool woodworking is what draws me in, you are very fun to watch man. subbed and hope to see more from you.
Thanks Chris!
Fantastic work! Also, this is probably my favourite of your songs I have heard thus far!
Your work is inspirational.
Tom
+motsiwel many thanks!
Hey Tom, amazing work, you 're a master craftsman, the world needs to return the craft, people who can make quality and beautiful objects that endure over time, objects with soul.
thanks brother !
An enthusiastic Huzzah! for the jointer plane. :)
LOL-; )
Keep killin it! Great video and fantastic piece by piece explanation. Thanks for sharing and taking the time to help others hone their skills.
Thanks Tom, love them all buddy. Oh yeah I have just orderd your new book ;)
thanks Ken, great to hear that- hope you enjoy it.
Good work and video! Thanks for sharing!
So, Tom, a lot of examples of flattening boards start with a scrub plane, which you didn’t use here. Is this because the board was not super rough texture wise or because it didn’t need much taken off to get the first face flat? Is your plane blade straight, cambered, or straight with clipped corners? When _would_ you use a scrub plane?
Great question...thanks. You've pretty much answered it already- no scrub plane unless I need to remove a fair amount of unusable material...by unusable I mean material that couldn't be re-sawn and repurposed. I don't use a scrub plane very often. My Jack plane has a bit of a camber, but not as aggressive as most.
hope that helps-
That is some gorgeous wood. Walnut? Great videos love the music, very relaxing to watch your work in progress.
Thanks Erik- very much appreciated. Yes, this is walnut, one of my favourites and plentiful here in Ontario. all the best~
Watched a few videos on planing and jointing recently but this is the best by far - terse, concise, clear and well-produced. Very well done - thanks!
My pleasure!
Thanks for the comments-
Helpful to the novice and experienced. Well done, Tom.
Omg, you are in TO ? I randomly stumbled on this video while searching planing rough lumber. I've bought some rough lumber from sawmill Syd thinking my friend could run it through his small planer and I'd be done, he did and it left snipe? marks everywhere. I have so much to learn but I'm assuming a more professional planer would leave little to no marks.
I wish I could find a planing service in Toronto or GTA, I do understand the reluctance and reasons people don't want to plane other people's wood. Please lmk if you know of any planning services. Thank you and as I mentioned in another comment great video
Regards froms San Luis, Argentina
amazing vídeo brother!!! pure manual working congratulations!!! :)
This is very helpful. I'm currently researching aka working up the courage to buy my first set of tools. What size are the planes you are using? and what is the scoring tool called? Thank you.
Tom you are amazing to watch and have me drooling for a chance to learn. I think you may have saved me an amount of money from buying some really under capable cheap planes.
My wife has hopes of us using reclaimed wood from a remodel of our house, to make a headboard. I'm pretty sure the wood is pine from over 100 years ago. It's really rough, but might be really beautiful when it's done. Is there one tip, aside from going with the grain, from your experience if you've been stuck working with softwoods, that you could post?
keep your plane iron sharp like a razor, and take light cuts. When you do have it flattened and smooth, if there's knots or pitch inside, try a clear coat of shellac and then finish. It'll seal the knots and pitch pockets from bleeding through the final finish- hope that helps, best of luck!
Hi Tom. I started tinkering with some walnut in advance of tackling your Gentleman's Valet in earnest. What primary bevel angle do you use on your Veritas jointer and do you use a wide or tight mouth?
Thank you for the videos. I really look forward to your next book.
I usually sharpen by bevel u irons in the 30-35 degree range. As for the throat, it isn't super tight, average at best? thanks for the comments and questions and best of luck with the project~
@@theUnpluggedWoodshop - Excellent. Thank you very much, sir. I appreciate the response.
very impressive
thanks!
Excellent video Tom!
Thanks!
i couldn't do the work you do with half your talent and power tools.
My hat is off to you!!
I found that strangely therapeutic to watch
Great videos! What is the material you're rubbing on the sole of your planes before beginning?
simonc700-
thanks for the comments and question. It's paraffin wax. A candle or bees wax would also work fine- it lubricates the sole and makes it easier to push.
all the best~
Hi Tom, thanks for all the videos. I really enjoy watching the way you work.
One question relating to dimensioning stock: If you were cutting a number of pieces from a wide board (as you are in this project) but the stock had to be reduced in thickness by a large amount, say > 3/8", would you do the stock removal on the wide board or the smaller pieces? I would guess that bulk stock removal with a jack/fore/scrub plane might be easier on a wide board as it is easier to run the plane across a wide board that a narrow one. Of course, it's always best to cut the board to length as much as possible as that will get rid of some twist.
Thanks again!
Hey Nic,
great question !
To be honest, it would depend on the piece. If I was sure about all of the parts needing to be re-dimensioned, then yeah, I'd probably saw them up and then resaw the 3/8-in. away.- Less waste that way. If I wasn't positive about the finished sizes, I may clean up the entire plank ( at least part of the way ) before I start breaking out the smaller components.
Thanks again for the question...
I love the care that goes into wood worked by hand. Just out of curiosity how long did it take you to dimension this board? I am trying my hand at planing a board flat, but only have a #4 smoothing plane. The board I am working at the moment is fairly small 4/4 poplar at about 22.5" x 10". I feel like I'm doing it wrong though because I have been working on it for an hour now and still haven't got the first surface done. LOL, right now I'm not feeling that zen with the wood.
Jack of all-
thanks for the comments and question-
try hitting the high spots first- use a straightedge to identify the highs and lows- work the high spots down to meet the low areas and then start taking lighter passes and surface the entire face. There's a method to the madness!
I'm assuming you're using a sharp handplane that's set up properly, but that's the basics in a nutshell. You'll find details and instructions, plans and projects in my book~ theunpluggedwoodshop.myshopify.com/collections/books/products/the-unplugged-woodshop-book
try taking a class in your area and/or stop by the UW Toronto for an Intro Class - ;)) www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/school/2016-09/
all the best and thanks again!
Thanks for taking the time to reply Tom. I finally got that board flat and true. It had a bit of a bow (so that's my excuse lol)... that and I don't have my hand planing muscles yet :). I'd love to buy your book but it appears to be unavailable on your site.
cheers! the UW book is on backorder and will be available in three weeks time-; ) thanks for the interest
grettings from Venezuela, keep going man
I love the channel! You have a lot of passion in your work. I have just started out myself and wondering if you can advise on where to get the "wax rock" you use for the sole of the plane? Thanks again new subscriber!
I use 100% bees wax. Anywhere that sells honey or bees wax will have it. all the best~
Perfect! Thank you!
I just, this morning on youtube, learnt what the cap iron is there for. Does make gnarly oak quite alot easier to plane :-p
Winding sticks are a brilliant idea, especially when nothing is flat in my workshop... Will any two sticks that are straight do (or maybe two levels), or do you recommend paying for the real deal?
Thanks...the 'real deal' aren't necessary- you can definitely use two straight sticks-; )
I just did! Works like a charm. Do you ever plane freshly cut timber, or do you always dry it out?
just out of a layman's curiosity
if you need square rod with a final thickness of, lets say 1 inch all around, how thick would you saw off the material before start smoothing it with the plain?
Thanks!
Nelson,
thanks for the question.
If it were me, I'd leave 1/16-in. to an 1/8-in. and then plane the piece to final dimension.
That said, I've been doing this for a long time and I use hand tools on a daily basis.
Beginners may wish to leave a little more waste- maybe closer to 3/16-in.
As they say- you can always take a little more off- but putting it back on is difficult~
Hope that helps,
all the best-
Thank you very much for your reply Tom, really appreciated!
Love your videos, thank you for sharing it with us!
All of best!
Tom-
I really enjoyed this one! It's always great to see the beautifully surfaced and trued parts emerge from rough sawn stock. What species is that?
OnEvenKeel,
thanks for the comments.
That's walnut- a great hand tool friendly wood that is plentiful here in Southern Ontario.
All the best,
Tom
I noticed on this project you're using a low angle jointer plane verses the low angle jack plane. Curious, which do you find the most versatile in your overall work?
Donald,
thanks for the question.
Without a doubt the Jack is in my hands more than the Jointer- I was using it here because of the scale of the work. Anything over 24-in. I use the Jointer.
all the best~
As tedious as that looks it looks way better than going to a gym and lifting weight for the sake of lifting weight. At least you've got something to show for your effort. How long does that take for you to do without the camera on and how long would it take a new woodworker?
Thanks for the question and comments. If you're asking how the long entire table took me, hard to say as I was writing my book and shooting everything as I went. I'd guess that it would probably be in the 120 + hours..? Just a guess.
all the best~
You go to the gym to improve your body, not just for the sake of lifting weights
I'd say if a new woodworker worked hard, he or she could do this in five years.
Bonjour Tom, j'adore votre travail, j'aurais voulu savoir si cette varlope à angle faible à les même capacité qu'une varlope normal, merci
Oui, ça l'est. Il a moins de pièces de sorte que son un peu plus facile à utiliser et à mettre en place. Merci beaucoup! Tous les meilleurs en 2017~
Merci à vous, continuez comme sa
Just curious Tom, do you have or used any of Rob Cosman's saws?
If yes, how would you rate it?
ronin4711- thanks for the question.
I don't own any, but I have used his saws. They come as advertised and many people really like them. Rob knows what he's doing-; )
Thanks Tom, I enjoy watching your videos, it's kind of Zen the way you work, you look very complacent about your work, I admire that.
Thanks.
Planing wood by hand for stress relief.
Tom, I'm having a terrible time hand planing ( #8 jointing plane) over softwood knots. The plane just rides ride over it. So, its really hard to get a flat surface. I have to work with what I've got. I've resorted to chiseling them down, but thats a pain. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks for the question- If the plane is skating over the knots then it sounds like its a sharpening issue. Try putting a razor edge on the iron and take a lighter cut. Work across the grain and when you get to a knot, really slow down and try to slice it instead of passing over or banging into it. Knots are never fun to deal with-; ) best of luck with it.
Tom Fidgen I have been banging those knots! I think I've been losing my edge that way. I will try. I thought my edge was pretty sharp, but after all that banging...I probably just destroyed the edge. It is a thinner old blade. I'm wondering if a thicker blade will hold an edge longer? Thanks!
yeah, thicker blades are worth the investment. You'll find replacement blades through many of the modern tool manufacturers- these new blades will fit your old Stanley ( or similar ) and keep an edge much longer. If you have a block plane, you could sharpen that up and hit only the knot areas first, with the smaller plane, and then finish the top with the larger plane. always options! best of luck~
Tom Fidgen Good strategy. I will try it. Thanks so much!
Tom Fidgen
What kind of plane is that? A jack plane?
Tony, thanks for the question. This is a Jointing plane- similar to my Jack bu with a longer sole.
Here's a link: www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=52414&cat=1,41182,48944,52414
all the best~
Do you not have to check if the face is totally flat lengthwise and across the grain? Maybe because your plane is so long? Not criticizing your work, I've seen super experienced people barely check. Just don't understand
Did you ever try hand carve a nice scrap of wood in to a ball? I though you might enjoy that challenge.
+Gernot Bremermann nice idea- ; )
Do you start with joiter plane directly? Not use scrub Plane?
I would only use a Scrub plane if the mill/saw marks were extremely deep- these days I prefer to use a Jack and/or Jointer, depending on how large the work is...
I find Scrub planes remove more material than is necessary.
thanks for the question~
Sorry I’m a year late guys...
But this scrub plane business...
I was told by a man I worked for that the scrub was never really used by a joiner...they were more aimed at framers/house builders as ripping 1/4 or so off a 2x4 could be done faster than with a hand saw and more accurately than a hatchet.
I like to believe him. Has the scrub plane always been in woodworking shops?...ain’t it just an ol wore out coffin plane with the points rounded off the blade ?
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
2:25 - What's that stuff you rub on the Jointing plane?
+utubecomment21 it's wax. thanks for the interest!
Tom Fidgen Thanks.
2:10 - Please do not feel offended. Is there some tear out?
+Marcelo Iván Rojas Hernández lol- ; ) no offence taken! and to answer your question, no- it doesn't look like it. you may be seeing the open grain structure on the edge of the walnut but no, I can't see any tear out in this shot. That said, sometimes wood does tear-out and when it does I don't worry too much. I will just stop and go re-sharpen my tools. When that doesn't work, I move to a higher angle plane. Tear out happens to everyone...it's really no worry. thanks for the questions! all the best~
Nice work but I rather run it through my thicknesser time is money money is what I need rather spend 2min than 2h
hello, excuse; might i say you are using wood.
I like your work very much but it's hard for me to watch a video that is constantly loosing focus. Sometimes in a very important moments of your work.
Tell yo veritas that they have to pay you for publicity, because for you i decided to buy my planes set veritas